Hi Bethany , Thanks for video. Do you think you could do a video on the new his and hers KB sock loom? By the way a big shout out to Pat at KB looms for the great help. Love KB Looms and all looming products keep up the good work.
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Cable Stitch (double knit in the round)
Learn the Mock CABLE Stitch!
New stitch for the Rotating Double Knit Loom!
Working double knit ‘in the round’ is worked slightly different than double knit on a straight loom. The straight loom is worked to one end, and then back. In the round, the loom is worked in one direction around the loom.
The weight of the yarn and the stitch will determine the size from 20-22”. Works great with #4 or #5 yarn. Sample knit with Red Heart Soft, Seafoam.
Rnd(s)=round(s) st(sts)=stitch(es)
NOTES: Each cable design is 4 stitches wide. Space between each design is 4 or 5 sts. For headband (in photo) total 16 rounds.
Mark each set of design pegs with markers or yarn on outer loom. Gold yarn marks the 4 peg cable stitches.
Work the cable design on the 4 stitch sections only. After twisting the loops, wrap all pegs with stockinette stitch and hook over.
Cast on in stockinette stitch.
Rnd 1: Stockinette stitch
Rnd 2: Twist loop 1 & 2 ( place loop from cable peg 1 onto cable peg 2. Place loop from cable peg 2 onto peg 1) and Twist loop 3 & 4 (place loop from cable peg 3 onto peg 4 and, then and place cable peg 4 onto peg 3, see photo). Push loops down and then wrap in stockinette and hook over.
Rnd 3: Stockinette all pegs
Rnd 4: Twist cable peg 2 & 3, (place loop from peg 3 onto peg 2, and loop from peg 2 onto cable peg 3). Wrap in stockinette and hook over.
Rnd 5: Stockinette all.
Repeat all rnds (2-5) 3 additional times. For headband above, knit a total of 16 rnds. Bind Off with basic bind off with crochet hook at loom, and at anchor yarn. Remove the anchor yarn and weave in all yarn tails.
See links for additional info and stitches:
Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Alternate Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Open Rib Stitch (dk in the round)
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Introducing…Loom Holder Connectors!
Now any loom can rotate on an elevated base!
The Loom Holder Connectors convert the ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom base into a Universal Loom Holder.
Kit includes: (3) loom holder connectors and (6) fabric bands (3 smaller bands are attached to the holders. To attach wider looms, replace the small bands with the larger ones.)
How it works…
The loom holder consists of a leg connector, and a ‘tray’. Each holder connector snaps onto a leg of the rotating base. The ‘tray’ or, top part of the connector, holds the loom. The trays rotate around to adjust to each loom. This allows the holders to work with various loom sizes. The connectors are very strong and sturdy.
To begin set up, simply evaluate your loom size, and insert the 3 legs into the rotating base using either the outer, or the inner openings on base. If you are setting up a large round loom, the outer leg locations work best, and smaller looms use the inner leg locations.
Rotate the trays to best position to fit your particular loom. Now take your loom and set on top of the 3 trays. Turn and adjust the trays so that they are balanced with the rotating base. Once loom is placed comfortably on trays, simply wrap the fabric bands around loom and secure to bottom of tray. The bands will hook over one of the knobs, located on bottom of the tray. You can use your fingers or knit hook to attach bands.
If you are working with a larger loom with wider base, for example, the afghan loom, remove the small fabric bands and replace with the larger fabric bands that come in the kit.
The connectors work to hold many loom shapes and sizes.
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Thrummed Mittens
Designed by Bethany A Dailey
This is the perfect season for warm, cozy mittens! This version uses a technique called thrumming, which adds sections unspun fiber into the fabric of a knitted piece to add a layer of toasty warm softness to the inside of the garment. When viewed from the outside, the thrums give the look of little hearts…perfect for February knitting!
LOOM: Sock Loom 2
YARN: approx. 108 yards bulky yarn. Sample used Bernat Softee Chunky, 108 yrds, 100% acrylic, in Natural. Also used: approx 1.25 oz of unspun fiber. Sample used Spinner’s Candy, 100% Falkland Wool, in Birth of Venus colorway.
NOTIONS: loom tool, yarn needle, crochet hook, scissors, row counter.
GAUGE: 6.5 sts x 14 rows = 2 inches in stockinette.
SIZE: junior/ adult.
ABBREVIATIONS:
Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch
CO=cast on
BO=bind off
KO=knit off
WY=working yarn
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
PATTERN NOTES
One strand held throughout.
All knit stitches are the true knit stitch, or U-stitch.
To Create and Place a Thrum:
Use lengths of fiber cut or pulled to 6″. The lengths should be about the same thickness once folded into thirds, as the thickness of the project yarn. Fold the length into approximately thirds, or a little bit less, and twist to form the thrum. This is then used on the peg that calls for a thrum, along with the working yarn. (Wrap the thrum around the peg above the base loop and hold the ends between your fingers to the inside of the loom. At the same time, lay the WY in front of the peg and above the thrum. Lift the base loop up and over both the thrum and the WY. The thrum and WY are knit off 2 loops over 1 in the following row.)
This pattern calls for 96 thrums per mitten, 192 total. Feel free to make them up ahead of time, or as you work each thrum.
For visual instructions on how to create thrums and begin using them in your mittens, see the following tutorial:
THRUM CHARTS
(Click on the charts to view larger)
Thrummed Mittens Chart
Simple Thrum Chart
INSTRUCTIONS
Set loom so that both end pieces are able to slide inward. CO to 32 pegs to work in the round.
Rounds 1-12: *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 13 & 14: k all pegs.
Rounds 15-24: Work Rounds 1-10 of the Thrummed Mittens Chart. (*see Pattern Notes for working thrums)
Thumb: Using only pegs 1-6, knit a flat panel for 30 rows. The WY will be back at peg 1 at the end of the 30 rows.
Round 25 & 26: Work Rounds 11-12 of the Thrummed Mittens Chart.
Rounds 27-50: Repeat Rounds 1-12 of the Thrummed Mittens Chart two more times.
Rounds 51-58: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:
a. Knit all sts of the round, but decrease every 4th peg. Do this by knitting 4 sts, then move the 4th loop to the 3rd peg. Knit the 2 loops over 1 in the following round. Slide both end pieces inward and shift the sts around the loom so that there are no empty pegs. Mark the original first stitch and keep this as the first stitch, even though it may move to a different peg.
b. Knit all remaining sts.
Gather BO the remaining 12 sts. Pull yarn tail with needle to the inside of the mitten, give one more careful pull to tighten all stitches, and knot securely in place.
FINISHING
Using a 15″ length of yarn, neatly stitch sides of thumb closed.
Weave in all ends and trim close to work. Thrums can be adjusted with a yarn needle or loom tool to make both “legs” even.
Block lightly.
Repeat all steps for second mitten.
Have questions or comments for Bethany? Feel free to leave a comment below! 🙂
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Twill Stripes Stitch: Stitchology 39
Twill is a type of weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. Simply stated, this is accomplished by floating one thread over the top of one or more others to create its characteristic diagonal pattern. We can recreate this weaving technique with our knitting. The floats, or diagonal lines, are accomplished by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left), and if so desired, a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right). They are worked as follows:
[lt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left. Place the held loop onto the peg on the right. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs. (*see video for alternate techniques)
[rt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right. Place the held loop onto the peg on the left. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs. (*see video for alternate techniques)
*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant. So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right. For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.
Abbreviations
K,k: knit
P,p: purl
WY: working yarn
St(s), st(s): stitch, or stitches
rep: repeat.
lt2: a left leaning twist of 2 stitches
rt2: a right leaning twist of 2 stitches
Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern
*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.
When working a Flat Panel, the stitches after the border square are worked only once: at the beginning of the first and all odd rows, before all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked, and at the end of the 2nd row and all even rows, after the Repeating Pattern Row repeats have been completed.
When working in the Round, only repeat the 7 stitches of the Repeating Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches after the border squares are not worked at all. Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.
Repeating Pattern for working as a flat panel (Cast on from right to left/clockwise a number divisible by 7, plus 2 additional sts. Begin 1st Row from left to right/counterclockwise):
Row 1: p2, *k5, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: *p2, lt2, k3, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: rep Row 1.
Row 4: *p2, k1, lt2, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 5: rep Row 1.
Row 6: *p2, k2, lt2, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: rep Row 1.
Row 8: *p2, k3, lt2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 7):
Round 1: *p2, k5, rep from * to end.
Round 2: *p2, lt2, k3, rep from * to end.
Round 3: rep Round 1.
Round 4: *p2, k1, lt2, k2, rep from * to end.
Round 5: rep Round 1.
Round 6: *p2, k2, lt2, k1, rep from * to end.
Round 7: rep Round 1.
Round 8: *p2, k3, lt2, rep from * to end.
Rep rounds 1-8 for desired length.
For working a stitch that is the exact mirror opposite of the one above, follow the same general instructions provided, but substitute right twists for the left ones, and use the below chart for exact stitch placements.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
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Spruce Berry Mittens
When the snow falls you’ll be ready to play with super warm mittens. Stylish enough for any occasion!
LOOM: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, set up for flat panel in double knit. Other looms may be used with 34+ double stitches.
STITCHES: Rib, Stockinette and Figure 8 for FDL design
YARN: Premier Serenity Chunky Tweed, #5, Color Cypress (G), 1-1/2 skeins. Premier Serenity Chunky, color Red Ochre (R), 1 skein and Pristine, white (W), 1 Skein. 100% Acrylic, 109 yds per skein. Machine wash, warm.
NOTIONS: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Large Darning Needle
SIZE: Adult med/large (7-7.5” from wrist to tip of middle finger)
GAUGE: 5 sts X 9 rows=2 inches in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS
St (sts)=stitch (stitches), Inc=increase, dec=decrease,
Techniques: Increase (inc)-move loops over to create an empty peg. Lift loop from previous row on adjacent peg onto empty peg to create a new stitch.
Decrease (dec)-lift loop on one peg onto adjacent peg. This creates an empty peg and a peg with 2 loops. Shift all loops over to close in the empty peg. This removes the stitch. When hooking over, lift both loops as one.
Note: When instructed to work an inc or dec, always follow this with a weave and hook over to complete the row. It will say, “work row”.
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast On in Rib stitch. (22) stitches with G yarn. Lay anchor yarn over stitches.
Rows 1-10: Work in Rib stitch. Rest of mitten will be worked in stockinette stitch.
Work 1 row in Stockinette with G yarn.
Add W yarn at 2nd stitch and knot. Cut G yarn.
Work 2 row
s in stockinette with W yarn. Increase 1 stitch at each end at 3rd stitch after the 2nd row is complete. Work this row.
Work one additional row. Total W rows=4.
Add G yarn, and work 1 row.
Pick up W yarn, and work 1 row. Cut W yarn.
Add G yarn, and work 2 rows. After 2nd G row, inc 1 st each end. Work row. Cut G yarn.
Add W yarn, and work 3 rows. On rows 2 and 3, inc 1 stitch each end, and work rows.
There are now 30 stitches on the loom. Cut and knot the W yarn.
Add G yarn and work 2 rows.
Increase 4 stitches. Move 6 sts out from each end creating one empty at each end at peg 7 and peg 23. Then move the end 3 stitches out to create 2 more empty pegs. Be sure to add the new stitches from previous row onto empty pegs.
You now have 34 stitches on the loom.
Work 2 additional rows in G yarn.
THUMB
The thumb is worked on center 10 stitches. They will remain on the loom as you continue to work in flat panel. Leave G yarn attached at beginning of loom. Add R yarn at peg 13 or 14 for thumb stitches.
Work 10 rows in center of loom with R yarn. After each row, simply push down in center of loom to move the thumb stitches down.
Once complete, bind off the 10 sts with a dec: Move loop 1 onto peg 2, loop 3 onto peg 4, loop 5 onto peg 6, 7 onto peg 8, 9 onto peg 10. You have 5 pegs with 2 loops each. Move them together to center.
Cut R yarn with 6” yarn tail. Place yarn on darning needle and remove the thumb stitches to yarn. This will hold them until you are ready to sew the mitten. Push the thumb down so that it is below the loom.
The mitten is worked on the remaining 24 sts, 12 on each side of thumb.
Slowly, move the stitches from each side to meet in center. Be sure to move the 12 inner sts to line up with the 12 outer sts. Do same thing to other side. Once all sts are moved to meet in center, do a reinforcement twist on st 12 and st 13 by crossing them.
This twist will reinforce the base of thumb.
Work 2 additional rows in G yarn on the 24 sts.
Do increase at st 3 and st 22 after 2nd row of G is complete. Cut G yarn. There are now 26 sts on the loom.
Add W yarn at 2nd peg. Work 2 rows in W yarn. Leave W yarn attached.
Add R yarn at peg 2 by tying it in center between the rows of pegs.
Work 3 rows with W and R yarn to complete the Fleur de Lis pattern.
Fleur de Lis There are five R designs, worked in 3 rows.
Each has: Row 1 with a center stitch,
Row 2 with 3 stitches,
Row 3 has 1 center stitch.
There are 2 stitches between the designs at center sts. Work all R sts in Figure 8 stitch, and then add the W yarn in stockinette.
It goes like this:
Row 1 & 3: Wrap st 4, 9, 14, 19, 24 with R yarn in Figure 8. Lay R yarn down but do not cut. Work remaining pegs with W yarn in stockinette. Hook over.
Row 2: Wrap sts 3,4,5, -8,9,10,-13,14,15,-18,19, 20, -23, 24, 25 with R yarn in Figure 8. Work remaining pegs with W yarn in stockinette.
You will note that the Figure 8 wrap is only moving R to L, or L to R. The yarn tail will end at R end of loom after the 3 rows. Cut R yarn.
Work 2 rows with W yarn. You can tie the R yarn tail onto the W yarn at R side at next row. Cut W yarn and tie on G yarn.
Work 4 rows of G yarn.
Decrease row (dec): Dec by 4 sts at each of the dec rows. Work the dec on peg 3 from each end, and center 2 pegs. This leaves 4 empty pegs, 1 at each end and 2 in center. Shift the loops to close in the empty pegs. Work row.
Work one regular row with G yarn. (no dec)
Next 2 rows, do dec rows and work each row.
Work one regular row.
Work 1 dec row. Work row.
Now 10 sts on loom. Cut G yarn with 10” yarn tail.
Removing the mitten from loom: Move the loops from inner loom to outer loom so that the inner loom is empty. Hook over to have only one loop on each of the 10 pegs. Shift loop from peg 1 onto peg 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, 7 to 8, 9 to 10. Move stitches towards center. Place yarn tail on darning needle and pick up all loops so that they are on the yarn and free of the loom. Remove the mitten.
Sewing and Finishing
Once the mitten is off the loom stretch it out so that the inc and dec are even and well shaped. Fold in half. The sewing will look best if you use the same color yarn as the stripes dictate. Start with the thumb and sew the R sts together with the yarn tail. Once you get to the G open area at base of thumb, change to G yarn. Sew this securely.
Move to top of mitten and draw the bind off sts up with yarn tail, Knot. Continue with G yarn until you get to the W fleur de lis section. Change to W yarn and do all the W sections. Knot each one. Use G yarn to complete the sewing down to the cuff. Be sure to match the color sections for a professional looking mitten. If you have any yarn tails to cut and weave into knitting, do these before sewing the cuff. Once the cuff is closed up, it will be more difficult to get into the inside to trim yarn tails. Once complete, you will repeat all instructions for the 2nd mitten.
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Ripples & Ribs Stitch, Stitchology 38
Front Side Ripples & Ribs
This is a stitch that is full of loft, texture, and lines, both straight and wavy. The best part of this new stitch is that it is completely reversible, with its vertical lines trailing between sections of texture along the front side, and lovely undulating ripples showing horizontally across the back side. Feel free to use this stitch on anything for which both sides will be featured, such as scarves, blankets, and even reversible hats!
Back Side Ripples & Ribs
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
Abbreviations
K,k: knit
P,p: purl
WY: working yarn
S1, s1: slip one stitch (simply skip this peg while carrying the working yarn behind the peg)
rep: repeat.
Chart Key for Repeating Pattern Rows
Ripples & Ribs Repeating Pattern
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
Repeating Pattern for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 6. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Row 1: *s1, k1, p1, s1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 2: *p2, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 3: *s1, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 4: *p1, k3, p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 5: *s1, k2, rep from * to end.
Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, rep from * to end.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: *s1, p1, k1, s1, k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 10: k all sts.
Rep rows 1-10 for desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 6):
Round 1: *s1, k1, p1, s1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Round 2: *k1, p2, rep from * to end.
Round 3: *s1, p2, rep from * to end.
Round 4: *k1, p1, k3, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 5: *s1, k2, rep from * to end.
Round 6: *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Round 7: Repeat Row 3.
Round 8: Repeat Row 2.
Round 9: *s1, p1, k1, s1, k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 10: k all sts.
Rep rounds 1-10 for desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
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Hi Bethany, I just watched the video on the new Ripples & Ribs stitch and I absolutely love it. Can you tell me what cast on and bind off you used please and thank you.
Corry
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Alternate Rib Hat
Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, set up for double knitting.
Yarn: Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal, 100% Merino Wool, worsted weight, 1skein. Color ‘Canary’ in sample.
Stitches: Rib, Alternate Rib
Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook, one stitch marker (optional)
Size: Average Adult
Pattern notes: Hat brim is knit in the rib stitch. The rest of the hat is knit in the rib and alternating rib stitch. Work by alternating these 2 stitches, round 1 and round 2 until hat length complete.
INSTRUCTIONS
Place the stitch marker on beginning peg, if desired, or use arrow. Cast On in stockinette stitch. Lay anchor yarn around stitches between the looms.
Rounds 1-8: Work rib stitch until end of round.
Round 9: Work alternate rib, until end of round.
Round 10: Work rib stitch until end of round.
Repeat rounds 9 and 10 until you have a total length of approximately
8-8.5” from brim edge. Complete the knitting with a row of rib stitch.
See photos below for weaving patterns for the Rib and Alternate Rib Stitch. The blue yarn show the ribbing, and yellow yarn shows the alternate rib.
RIB STITCH
Beginning of round one
End of round one
End of round two
ALTERNATE RIB
Beginning of the round one
End of round one
Once the knit is desired length, you are ready to bind off. Move loops from inner loom to outer loom so that each peg on outer loom has 2 loops, and the inner loom is empty, hook over, bottom loop over top. Now, one loop remains on each peg on outer loom.
Cut the working yarn coming from the project, leaving about 16-20 inches of yarn to use for the gathering process.
Thread the yarn tail through the eye of a tapestry needle. Pass the needle up and under the first stitch on the loom. Remove the stitch from the peg and leave it on the yarn tail. Go to the next peg and remove the stitch from the peg with the needle. This stitch will also rest on the yarn tail. Continue working around the loom until all the stitches have been removed and are secured on the yarn tail.
Gently pull on the yarn tail, cinching the top of the item closed. Pass the needle through the center of the gathered stitches and turn the hat inside out. Do a few securing stitches. Knot your yarn and weave in the tail.
Bind off the cast on stitches at anchor yarn with crochet hook for a completed hat.
See links for additional stitches:
Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Mock Cable Stitch (dk in the round) Open Rib Stitch (dk in the round)
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Loom FAQs: How Do I Read A Chart?
Everybody loves a video. Lots of people only use videos when making items because they prefer to not read patterns. But learning to read patterns is great because it opens up lots more projects to make since not every pattern has a complete video tutorial.
But wait… There’s more.
Patterns actually come in 3 formats.
The first format is videos. But like I mentioned, not all patterns are available in video format.
The second format is written patterns. Patterns in written form are like reading code. Words are abbreviated and sections are written as repeats so that the pattern itself is not the length of a novel written by Diana Gabaldon or George R. R. Martin… But putting men from the Scottish Highlands and fear of long winters aside for the moment, it can get rather lengthy when a pattern is written out in full, and it really is like learning to read another language which means you do have to put forth the effort to learn to read the code. If you are looking for more on reading a pattern, check out Loom FAQs: How Do I Read A Pattern?
And the last format is charts. While most patterns are not fully “written” in charts in knitting, the stitch pattern itself is. Once a person can read both patterns and charts, there is nothing they cannot make.
Why EXACTLY are charts so great?
Charts are wonderful ways of conveying the stitch patterns without words. It is truly universal. Like mathematics, knitting charts can be read by anyone no matter what language they speak or read. But there are other ways that charts are great as well.
For people who loom knit, we need to convert written needle patterns in order to make them on looms unless they are written in the round. But when reading charts, needle knitters have to convert or change the wrong side rows while loom knitter do not. Charts can be worked exactly as they appear row for row. This is why I love stitch pattern books for knitting that contain charts. And this is why all loom knitters should learn to read charts. Then we don’t need special loom knitting stitch pattern books. We can use the same book that the needle knitters use.
So how are charts read?
Before we get into how to read a chart, let’s discuss what the chart is. A chart is just a grid of boxes where each box represents a stitch on a row or round. It looks like graph paper.
While most charts for stitch patterns are made of boxes that are square like on regular graph paper, knitting stitches are not square. Each knit stitch is shorter than it is wide. Or wider than it is tall. This is why there are more rows in an inch vertically than there stitches in an inch horizontally. This is the reason that knitting graph paper for charting pictures or words is not made of squares. These graphs have cells that are rectangular. If you chart a picture with graph paper made of squares, the finished knitted picture will be short and fat when compared to the picture desired. But when using charts to depict stitch patterns and not pictures, square cells are most commonly used.
Now we can discuss how to read a chart…
The following chart is the herringbone stitch pattern from the Stitchology column written by Bethany Daily here on the KB blog. This stitch was the first in the Stitchology series. If you haven’t been keeping up with Bethany’s column, then you are missing out on some fabulous stitch patterns. And guess what? She even covers reading stitch charts as well in the herringbone stitch post as well. Maybe between us both, we will get the word out on how to read charts… Here is the chart:
But the chart alone means nothing without the key. In books, the key will not be found with every stitch chart. It will most often be found in one of two places in the book. Either in the front or the back. Therefore, if you see a chart but not the key, you will be able to find it elsewhere. If you cannot find it, then it is like looking for a treasure without a map.
PLEASE NOTE:
I do need to clarify something here. While all knitting charts are shown from the right side, some needle stitch pattern books will have 2 keys for the symbols. They will have a right side key and a wrong side key. In these books, the wrong side key will be the same symbol as the right side but the opposite stitch for flat panels. So it will have the symbol for knit on the right side and the same symbol for purl for the wrong side.
Also, when using needle stitch charts that do not have 2 keys, it will indicate the stitch for the right side and the stitch for the wrong side.
Loom knitters will ALWAYS use the right side stitch. That is the part to remember. RIGHT SIDE STITCH ONLY!
Here is the Chart Key:
As you can see in the above chart, the rows are numbered from the bottom to the top.
The cast on is not listed on the chart because the cast on is not considered a row. It is simply the foundation of loops that all the rows sit on top of.
Also you need to remember that this is for the stitch pattern itself. Not the complete pattern in most cases. Therefore if there is a border at the bottom or the sides, those will need to be done before working these rows.
But if you are working a pattern that has a chart, you will need to cast on in certain direction ALWAYS when reading charts or patterns. The reason is you will be working each stitch as it appears on the chart. Stitch 1 on row 1 will always appear on the bottom right hand corner of the chart so that row 1 is worked from right to left.
This is the reason you will need to cast on from left to right when casting on for a flat panel so that you will be ready to start row 1 from right to left.
When casting on in the round, you will cast on from right to left so that you will be ready to work from right to left when starting round 1.
Now let’s look at the rows themselves on the chart. On the right you see the odd rows numbered and on the left the even rows are numbers. This is make the chart easier to read. Especially for flat panels. After working row 1 from right to left, you then work row 2 from left to right. And there is the number 2 for the second row on the left hand side making it easier to find once you have worked you way across row 1.
But what exactly does each square mean?
The key tells us what stitch to use. Each square represents a stitch. This stitch pattern only uses knit and purl stitches. Therefore there are only 2 types of squares. In other words, this is a simple stitch pattern if you can keep up with which stitch goes where.
The empty squares do not mean that there isn’t a stitch. It means those are the knit stitches.
The squares with the single dot in the middle are the purl stitches.
When the stitch pattern is more complicated, the symbols and where they are placed become more complex as well. This is why it is better to start off with a simple stitch pattern when starting to read charts.
For most charts that are included with patterns, the charts only show just a certain number of stitches. The number of stitches will vary chart to chart since these are the number of stitches that will be repeated. For the herringbone stitch, the stitch is a repeat of 10 stitches. If you are making something larger than 10 stitches, you will need to make the item with a multiple of 10 then add the number of stitches for the side borders on a flat panel. If working in the round, it will just be the multiple of 10.
Now to start reading our chart. When you start with the first row of the stitch pattern, you should be on the right side of the loom working to the left. For the herringbone example, you will knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches. Then you will repeat those for however many repeats you are working. For 30 stitches total, you will repeat it another 2 times for 3 times total. For 100 stitches total, you will repeat for 9 times making it a total of 10 times.
Now for a flat panel, you are on the left side of the work getting ready to work from left to right on row 2. You will follow the stitches on the chart from left to right this time. Row 2 will be knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches before repeating.
If you are working in the round, you will just continue working from right to left and follow the chart from right to left as well. Round 2 would then be knit 2 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch before repeating.
Then on to row or round 3… Hopefully you have the idea now of what will need to be done for row 3. And also see how long it takes to write out a row stitch for stitch…
What would this chart look like written out?
Well if the herringbone pattern was written out in a pattern without a chart, it would be written as follows for the stitch pattern with the chart on the right side for comparison:
Abbreviations for our little demonstration:
K: knit
P: purl
Rep: repeat
For a flat panel:
Row 1: *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *
Row 2: *K1, P2, K3, P2, K2, rep from *
Row 3: *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *
Row 4: *P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, rep from *
For in the round:
Round 1: *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *
Round 2: *K2, P2, K3, P2, K1, rep from *
Round 3: *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *
Round 4: K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, rep from *
I hope this helps clear up any confusion charts may present. But something I have learned over the years is the best way to learn something is to just do it. If you make mistakes, don’t worry! With yarn, just pull it out and try again. It is ok to make mistakes. It is how we learn.
Now it’s time to put the fear of charts aside, grab a ball of yarn, and tackle that pattern you have been wanting to make! Happy loom knitting!
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Bobbles and Seed Stitch: Stitchology 37
This month is all about creating the classic look of bobbles! There are so many stitches that incorporate bobbles into their design that a column of stitch tutorials would be remiss not to include them. After playing with many different types of bobbles, I came up with a version that is nice and plump and provides that wonderful “pop” that they are famous for. The steps involved in creating these happy little bumps are broken down in written and video format, and the bobbles are then inserted into two repeating patterns for your enjoyment.
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap, unless otherwise stated.
Abbreviations
K,k: knit
P,p: purl
KO: knit off (lift bottom loop(s) over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)
WY: working yarn
HH: half hitch (create a loop with WY by twisting in opposite way than when making an EW and place on peg. The WY will be coming from underneath the twist rather than on top.)
rep: repeat.
Chart Key for Repeating Pattern Rows
Steps to Create a Bobble (Bobbles can be worked going in either direction on the loom…Simply number the bobble pegs 1-3 in the order they are worked in the first bobble step.):
Step 1: k3
Step 2: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.
Step 3: HH onto peg 3, k peg 2, HH onto peg 1.
Step 4: (k3) repeat 3 times, will end on peg 3.
Step 5: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.
Step 6: reach down at the back side of the work and pull up the 3 loops from the base of the bobble that were knit in Step 1 and place them back onto pegs 1-3.
Step 7: WY will be coming from peg 2. K peg 3. Continue with remainder of row.
Step 8: Knit next row of pattern, KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2 of bobble.
Here’s a video of just the steps to make a bobble:
Working Bobbles into a Basic Stitch
This basic stitch uses a multiple of 9 pegs x 9 rows. The bobble itself requires 3 pegs and is worked on Row 5 only. The extra pegs and rows around these 3 bobble pegs act as a buffer between the bobbles when repeated. The number of “buffer” pegs and rows can be adjusted as desired to meet the needs of the project.
(Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 9. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Rows 1-4: k9
Row 5: k3, create bobble, k3.
Row 6: k4, k 2 loops as one on peg 5, k4.
Rows 7-9: k9
Bobble & Seeds Repeating Pattern
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 22—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
Working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 22. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Rows 1-4: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.
Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 1-4.
Rows 10 & 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Rows 12-15: Repeat Rows 1-4.
Row 16: Repeat Row 5.
Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 1-4.
Rows 21 & 22: Repeat Rows 10 & 11.
Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 22):
Rounds 1-4: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:
Round A:*k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.
Round B: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.
Round 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.
Rounds 6-9: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:
Round C: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.
Round D: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 10: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Round 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Rounds 12-15: Repeat Rounds 6-9.
Round 16: *p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, k4, create bobble, k4, rep from * to end.
Rounds 17-20: Repeat Rounds 1-4.
Round 21: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 22: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
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Loom FAQs: What Is A Provisional Cast On?
There are always so many questions in the loom knitting world on social media. Why is my bind off so tight? How I can match my bind off to my cast on? What is waste yarn? How do I cast on and still have live stitches for grafting?
One of the more common problems in the world of loom knitting the getting the cast on and bind off to match. Most people cannot get the tension on both ends to match due to the differences in the cast on and bind off methods. But never fear. There is a solution to that.
And while that one question at the first seems a bit off topic, all of the questions above do have the same answer.
That answer is using waste yarn to cast on.
What is waste yarn?
Waste yarn is just yarn of another color that is used to cast on and then used to knit the first few rows.
Why would I use waste yarn to cast on?
When waste yarn is used to cast on, the yarn that will then be used in the project can be added so that the waste yarn can be removed later.
Why would I want to remove the waste yarn?
While there are a lot of reasons to use waste yarn to cast on, there is only one main reason to remove the waste yarn after casting on.
That reason is to leave live stitches on the cast on end of the project.
What are “live stitches”?
Live stitches are the loops that are to be worked in knitting. Generally speaking those are the stitches that are always on the pegs of the loom waiting to worked. When binding off, those live stitches are being “closed” or ended so they will not run or unravel when the work is removed from the loom.
Why would I want live stitches on the cast on end?
There are a couple of very good reasons for wanting to have live stitches on the cast on end of a piece of work.
And both reason have to do with finishing the piece.
The first reason is so the work can then be placed back on the loom so that you can use the same bind off you used on the other end. This is the best way to get both ends to match since they are worked in the exact same manner.
The second reason is so the cast on and bind off edges can be grafted together using the kitchener stitch to get a seamless join when making infinity scarves or other garments where you want to join but do not want a visible seam.
How do I work the provisional cast on so I get live stitches on the cast on edge to do with as my heart desires?
I am so very glad you asked! Let’s get started!
Provisional Cast On
There are 2 things you will need when working a provisional cast on. Well 1 thing definitely. The other is just very highly recommended by yours truly in order to make your life easier and meaningful…
You will need waste yarn and a life line. While both of those are just yarn, I would like to make certain recommendations first.
Waste Yarn
When using waste yarn, you will want to use yarn that you will not be using again. It does not need to be the same type of yarn you are using in the project. If you are using high end yarn, please do not use the same for the waste yarn. Why? Well it IS called WASTE yarn for a reason. You may be cutting it and most likely will not be able to reuse it so it becomes trash or waste.
I suggest using an inexpensive yarn that is a contrasting color. You will want to be able to tell the difference between the waste yarn and the project yarn.
Lifeline
Life lines are just yarn in a different color as well. But unlike waste yarn, you can reuse yarn that is used for lifelines. Another suggestion is that the lifeline be a different color than the waste yarn AND the project. This is so there is no confusion between the 3 different things. I am one that tries my hardest to keep from being confused. And my yarn is the one thing I have complete control over in my life.
If you are new to using lifelines in your work, you can find more information in Loom FAQs What Is a Lifeline? The method that we will be doing here is adding the lifeline after the work is off the loom but the stitches that will be picked up are not the ones shown in the article. More on that later.
Now let’s get started.
I have a loom, my project yarn which is the purple, my waste yarn which is the beige, and my lifeline which is orange.
First we will cast on with the waste yarn. Doesn’t matter what cast on you use. I suggest using the simplest and quickest which is the wrap cast on.
Now we will work about 6 rows of knit. Doesn’t matter which knit stitch you use on this part. It doesn’t need to match the rest of the work since we will be taking it off
Now we cut our waste yarn leaving a short tail. It is finished for this project.
Add your project yarn in whatever manner you like when joining your yarn.
Here I have placed the slip knot on a neighboring peg so I can start knitting on peg 1.
The russian join is not a good one here since you still need that end. You will want to leave a tail long enough to work whatever bind off or seaming technique you are planning on using when finishing the cast on edge later.
If you will be seaming with the kitchener stitch, leave a yarn tail about 1 and a half lengths of the pegs that are cast on.
If you plan on working the basic bind off, then you will want to leave a yarn tail at least 3 lengths of the pegs that are cast on.
You can simply put a slip knot on the first peg and then start working your pattern from here at row 1.
Or if you are like me and do not like knots in your work, just simply start row. You do not need a knot or an anchor peg. Just start knitting. More on how to do that can be found in Loom FAQs: Why Not Knots?
Continue until you are finished with your bind off on the other end.
Here you can see the work after it is off the loom
If you are wanting to graft the 2 ends together, simply place a second lifeline through the stitches on the loom and remove it. Unless you will be adding the cast on edge to the bind off edge and binding them off together. Then just leave it on the loom…
Now we will place the lifeline. The lifeline will be placed in a different manner since we will be unraveling from the cast on end. The loops are that need the lifeline are not the loops that are on the pegs which is why we didn’t place the lifeline as we went. If the lifeline is placed through the stitches on the pegs, the lifeline will not go through the live stitches once the waste yarn is removed. Sounds crazy, I know. But just trust me on this. When unraveling from the cast on end, the live stitches are between the pegs, not on them.
Turn the work over to see the back.
The first row where the project yarn can be seen are the stitches that will be picked up by the lifeline.
They are the ones at the bottom still in the beige stitches.
Thread the lifeline onto the tapestry needle
and run the needle through each of the loops until all are on the lifeline.
Since the lifeline has been placed, there is no need to fear dropped stitches.
Simply cut the work here on the waste yarn and then unravel the rest of the waste yarn until all that is left is the project with all the live stitches securely on the lifeline.
Or you can just pull the end tail of the waste yarn out across the piece so the waste yarn may be used again.
Now you are free to do whatever you please with those live stitches.
If you are wanting to bind off that end like the other end, simply put those stitches back on the loom and then bind off in the method of choice.
If you are wanting to bind off the cast on and bind off ends together, just place the stitches back on the loom over the stitches that are already on there by bring the work up through the middle of the loom making sure you do not catch the loom in the middle of the scarf. Yes. It has been done. Yes. I have seen it.
If you are wanting to graft the 2 ends together, proceed with whatever manner you choose whether it be the kitchener stitch on needles or putting the cast on end over the bind off end on the loom so that the kitchener stitch can be worked on the loom. Both methods of working the Kitchener stitch can be found in Loom FAQs: What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?
Well there you have it! Waste yarn, the provisional cast on, and reasons why you would want live stitches on the cast on end.
Hope all your loom knitting projects have a happy ending!
2 Comments
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This is sooooo helpful. Thank you for posting this and adding the detailed photos.
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A very well written and photographed tutorial. I will definitely try this. Thanks for taking the time to wrie it!
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Stitchology 36: Triple Wrap Around Stitch
This month’s stitch creates a lacy, yet still plush design that is reminiscent of cresting waves upon ocean beaches, seashells, or even fish scales (holey mackerel, lol!). It uses a new technique of wrapping back and forth between two pegs at a time to achieve this lovely effect. Feel free to use this stitch for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed from either side.
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
The “triple wrap around” (TWA) referred to in this pattern is a combination of techniques worked on just two pegs, moving back and forth between them in the following manner (instructions are to begin from right to left/clockwise):
Step 1: S2 (carry working yarn (WY) behind pegs 1 & 2)
Step 2: Bring WY around to the front of peg 2 and SWYF (slip stitch with working yarn in front of peg: see below for more info) on peg 2 and on peg 1.
Step 3: Bring WY behind peg 1 and 2 and around to the front of the peg 2. SWYF again on peg 2.
Step 4: Bring WY between peg 2 and peg 1 and around to the front of peg 1, creating an E-wrap.
Step 5: KO peg 1. K peg 2.
(SWYF) directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front. This simply means that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work. To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.
*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place. Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.
Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows
*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker lines are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.
When working a Flat Panel, the stitches outside the border square are worked only once: at the end of the odd rows, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the even rows, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.
When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeating Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches outside the border squares are not worked at all. Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.
Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Row 1: *k2, TWA, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: k all sts.
Row 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, TWA.
Row 4: k all sts.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):
Round 1: *k2, TWA, rep from * to end.
Round 2: k all sts.
Round 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to end.
Round 4: k all sts.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
2 Comments
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Just wondering. Have I missed something? Stitchology goes from 30 to 35. Did I miss the in between ones? If so, where can I find them.
I really like the TWA. Going to try this one next.
Thanks, Rosemarie
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Stitchology 35: Scalloped Shells
Can’t you just feel the sea breezes, hear the surf, and feel the sand in your toes just from looking at this month’s Scalloped Shells stitch? It may look complicated, but is fairly simple to do, especially using the stitch breakdown and the tutorial video you’ll find below. Happy summer looming! Something to note: even though this stitch works up in natural waves, it can still be used as a square for blankets, if you so desire. This square would be a terrific one to place at the top and bottom edges with the scallop sides out, or you could simply block it so that the bottom is in a straight line for easier seaming together with other afghan blocks. 😉
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
This stitch uses a multiple of 11 pegs (stitch itself expands to 15 loops per repeat, see the instructions on how to accomplish this on only 11 pegs.)
All knit stitches use the true knit stitch or “reverse purl”.
Double YO: E-wrap yarn around peg twice, KO, leaving the 2 wraps on peg.
KO: knit off (lift bottom loop over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)
Sl: slip (skip peg, do not work)
WY: working yarn
Wyib: working yarn carried to the back of the peg
YO: lay working yarn across the front of the peg.
K5tog: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg and KO one at a time.
Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows
Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 11. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Rows 1-3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)
Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)
Peg 3: knit
Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.
Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)
Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)
Peg 11: knit.
Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Peg 11: purl.
Peg 10: purl the top loop and move to peg 11. Purl the bottom loop.
Peg 9: purl the top loop and move to peg 10. Purl the bottom loop.
Pegs 8-4: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.
Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10. Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.
Peg 6: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted). Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.
Peg 5: Purl the stitch on peg 3 and move to peg 5.
Peg 4: Purl the top loop on peg 2 and move to peg 4.
Peg 3: Purl the bottom loop on peg 2 and move to peg 3.
Peg 2: Purl the top loop on peg 1 and move to peg 2.
Peg 1: purl. Remove any extra slack from stitches 1-5.
Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.
Row 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Pegs 11-7: knit.
Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.
Pegs 5-1: knit.
Repeat from * to end of row.
Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 11):
Rounds 1-3: knit
Round 4: purl
Round 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)
Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)
Peg 3: knit
Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.
Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)
Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)
Peg 11: knit.
Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Peg 1: move the loop on the top temporarily to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.
Peg 2: purl the top loop and move back to peg 1. Move the next loop temporarily to peg 3. Purl the bottom loop.
Peg 3: purl the top loop and move back to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.
Pegs 4-8: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.
Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10. Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.
Peg 9: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted). Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.
Pegs 7-11: purl
Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.
Round 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.
Peg by Peg Breakdown:
*Pegs 1-5: knit.
Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.
Pegs 7-11: knit.
Repeat from * to end of round.
Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
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Need a book on what stitches mean and how to do them
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Loom FAQs: What Is A Burn Test? Why Burn Yarn At All?
We have all been there. Go to a thrift store or yard sale and find a stash of yarn being sold for dirt cheap. Cannot pass it up because IT IS DIRT CHEAP. And better yet, it’s clean and usable yarn. Doesn’t have an odor or feel weird. Appears to be clean and ready to use. Might still wash it after the project is made though…
But one thing is missing. The label. On several of the skeins. And since there is such a variety of different kinds of yarn in that stash, there is no way of being certain that is the same kind of yarn. It feels or looks different from anything else you have.
Or you are not the lucky sort to find these kind of deals and just end up buy a bag of mill ends that is still a mystery even though you bought it at a retail store.
What is it? What kind of fiber is this mystery yarn? Will I be able to block it? Can I use it as a gift for someone who is allergic to wool? How can I find out what the fiber content of this wonderfully cheap mystery yarn actually is??
Well you are in luck. There are ways to find out the fiber content of yarn. And it’s fun too. BY BURNING IT. Why would I burn it? Then I wouldn’t have it. Well you don’t burn the entire thing. Just a small piece.
Please note!! Please take every precaution about using open flames in your home so that your entire stash doesn’t burn with the rest of the house. I mean, we all love firefighters. And calendars of shirtless firefighters. Just don’t go and try to meet all from the firehouse all at once by accident… And please do not use me as an excuse to your significant other as a reason there was a fire in your home or why you have burned your hand. But Renita said you can burn the yarn to see what it’s made of!! It’s her fault. Just use some common sense before setting anything at all on fire. Even a candle.
What is a burn test?
A burn test is a simple way to tell if the yarn is 1 of 3 fiber types, synthetic (acrylic, nylon, etc.), plant base (cotton, linen, bamboo, rayon, etc.), or animal (wool, silk, alpaca, angora, etc.)
Why can I not tell between different types of animal or plant?
Since all of each fiber types will burn the same, there isn’t a way to tell between the different animals or plants or man-made fibers. While some people can tell between silk and wool, the way those burn will remain the same.
How do I do a burn test?
First you will need to take all safety precautions like mentioned earlier. A bowl or sink full of water is a great way to start. If you are more accident prone, go ahead and have that fire extinguisher out and ready that we are all to have already in our kitchens. Never hurts to have that handy just in case.
Then you will need to cut off a piece of the yarn. About 6″ to 12″ will suffice. Want it long enough to see how it burns and how easy it is to put out. But not too long or too short that you can lose control easily.
Then light one end of the yarn on fire using a match, lighter, or other open flame while holding it over the prepared water. You may need to use the water to put the flame out if blowing on it like a candle doesn’t work. Or the flame gets out of the control and you really need to just drop it. That water is going to come in handy. Just take my word for it…
Do NOT pinch the flame out with your fingers!! If the yarn is synthetic, you are basically burning plastic and run the risk of the melted plastic adhering to your fingers. Not something you want to happen.
What does it tell me when I do a burn test?
Below are the results of burning each fiber type.
Each type will have different results in how it smells, how it burns and if it extinguishes itself or must be extinguished by you, and the way it burns and whether it produces ash or not.
And yes. I have conducted the burn test myself and have smelled each one.
Synthetic (acrylic, nylon, etc.)
– smells like burnt plastic
– the flame will burn fast and will continue to burn until it is extinguished by blowing it out or submerging it in water
– the burnt end will not turn to ash and will harden like melted plastic while turning black
Plant (cotton, linen, bamboo, rayon, etc.)
– smells like burnt linen which it should especially if it’s linen…, (I saw it described that way before and just had to include that sweet little nugget of information…) In other words, it has a “clean” smell when burnt
– the flame will continue to burn until it is extinguished and is easy to extinguish like a candle wick by blowing t out
– the burnt end turns to fine ash like burnt paper ash
Animal (wool, silk, alpaca, angora, etc.)
– smells like burnt hair
– flame will almost immediately die out on it’s own without the need to extinguish, if it doesn’t then it may be a blend
– leaves crisp, crunchy ash that is larger, may stick together until broken apart, and not fine like plant fiber
What if the yarn is a blend?
Usually the burn test will determine the highest of the fiber content used. It may or may not burn differently depending on the content of each fiber when it’s a blend. There is not a sure fire way to know what the percentage of each fiber is. Did you see what I did there…
If the yarn is plied with multiple strands, you may try separating the strands and conducting the burn test on each strand. Sometimes with blends, the strands that are plied together are actually different fibers. Most times though all the different fibers are carded together before they are spun.
One way to tell if it’s a blend is by looking closely at the colors in the strand. If the strand of yarn has slightly different shades of the same color, it is most likely a blend of more than one fiber. Different fibers take color dye differently causing a variation of color shade in the same strand of yarn.
Can I try it on something I know first?
A great way to know what it looks like and smells like when burnt is to do a burn test on yarn you already know the fiber content. Trying to describe how it smells and looks is harder than it sounds, and everyone smells things differently.
While the burn test will not give the most definitive answers, it will narrow down the fiber type tremendously making it easier to know how to use, block, and clean the finished projects made with the mystery yarn.
For more answers regarding the yarn weight of the mystery yarn, please check out my previous article Loom FAQs: What Is WPI And Yarn Weights?
Now you know basically what the yarn is and are ready to cast on your loom. Well get going! Happy loom knitting!!
1 Comment
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i was wondering after i e wrap and i have too do a purl stich next do i cast on again too make 2 on the peg ?
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Stitchology 34: Double Andalusian Stitch
This month we feature a stitch with a rhythmic and almost calming repeating pattern of simple knits and purls. The Double Andalusian Stitch, sometimes called the Ridge Rib Stitch, is wonderfully versatile and can provide that perfect amount of interest to any project at hand.
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows
*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker lines are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.
When working a Flat Panel, the stitches outside the border square are worked only once: at the end of the odd rows, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the even rows, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.
When working in the Round, only repeat the 3 stitches of the Repeat Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches outside the border squares are not worked at all. Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.
Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 3, plus 1 extra stitch at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Rows 1 & 2: k all sts.
Row 3: *k1, p2, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: k all sts.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 3):
Rounds 1 & 2: k all sts.
Round 3: *k1, p2, rep from * to end.
Round 4: k all sts.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
11 Comments
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I am asking about the sea coral cap. Crown I am confused
I move stitch 1 to peg2 Do I knit off?
Next part I do not understand If I am correct I have empty odd begs? I do not understand B/o the even pegs
Thank you for your help
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Sorry Betty I just now saw your comment. Thank you Bethany for answering. She is right. Its just to decrease half the peg count so when you run the yarn to gather it will be less bulky.
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Bethany,
I have been following your “Stitchology” square offereings since the beginning. I am a bit confused and hope for assistance. I know you have gone to a new format but I still wish to use the stitches to create a square (want to use all I have completed so far for a blanket). Have just started on the Stitchology 34 double andalusian stitch and am confused with the pattern. No mention is made of “Set Up Rows” as in the past. Usually they always were a few rows of knit, purl, knit to create a border around the square. If I want my squares to be pieced together into a blanket, should I start all squares as in the past and do the first few rows of knit, purl, knit to create a matching border (I would think they would be easier to join if all are alike). But, want to be sure as I have not looked at all the patterns yet and should no mention be made in the future patterns about these “Set Up Rows”, I would like to know how to continue with the pattern, or if added with they change the pattern? Thank you, Marilyn -
Which gage works best for the double Andalusian stitch? Mine seems way to tight.
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can i use my afgan loom for it stitchology
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Thank you for your help. I am a newbie to loom knitting or any kind knitting.
I am learning to make prayer shawls for church on a loom. Have mostly done double
Knitting but trying to learn single knitting. I think you are right I pull to tight. Hope to try
This stitch on the KB hat loom for a shawl . Not sure if it will be big enough for a shawl
Though. Trial and error that’s me. The stitch looks pretty and I need easy. Knitting is
Suppose to be fun and relaxing not stressful!
Guess I will see what happens! Thanks. Char
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Loom FAQs: How Do I Work Beads Into My Projects
After people get the hang of loom knitting beanies and scarves, the desire to expand their knowledge of different techniques grows. In social media, I see questions for all sorts of things. Among them are How do I knit with beads? Do I need to string the beads first? Can I add beads as I go?
Different people have different methods for attaching beads to their loom knit projects. Today I will demonstrate 3 different ways to attach beads. Other people may have other methods.
Let’s start with beads and go from there!
What kind of beads do I need to use?
You can use any kind of bead that you can fit your yarn though. Most people I have seen in loom knitting tend to use pony beads. Those are the larger plastic beads found in the kids crafts that have really large holes. But you are not limited to those alone. While you will need to use beads with larger holes on thicker yarn, you might actually be surprised what beads you can use when I show you how I thread them onto the yarn.
Do I need to use a beading needle to thread the beads on the yarn?
I have made jewelry for years now. I have used all sorts of beading needles. One of my favorites is the needle that is made of twisted wire with an eye that will collapse shut after being threaded. Very inexpensive to buy. But not always the best when threading yarn through beads. And as for the tapestry needles used to weave in the ends, those are always too big for beads unless you are using pony beads.
What do I use then if not a beading needle?
Dental floss. WHAT?? Yes. I like to use dental floss to thread my beads on the yarn. I would like to mention that I use dental floss straight from the container that is unused… I am all for recycling, but reusing dental floss is a bit much for me.
What kind of dental floss?
I prefer using the unflavored waxed dental floss. No need to have mint flavored yarn. And the dye they use on the flavored floss might stain the yarn. Not sure. But don’t want to chance it.
I like waxed because it makes it easier for ends of the floss to stick together and go through the hole of the bead.
What if I only have unwaxed floss?
You can use unwaxed if you have some beeswax or beading thread conditioner that you can coat the ends of the floss. But if you have the thread conditioner, you might happen to have beading thread which you can use in the place of the floss. Like using the floss because it’s a bit easier to work with. Especially if it’s waxed.
But waxed dental floss is very inexpensive and therefore not a struggle to afford.
How do I add the beads? Before or as I go? Do both methods look the same? Or different?
The way the beads look on the finished piece will definitely vary with the way the beads are added. Let’s talk about each way and see how the beads look when the work is finished.
Adding Beads Before Starting
The easiest way would be to string all the beads you will need before starting to knit.
You will need to make sure you have enough or more than you will need. If not, you will need to cut the yarn, add more beads, and join the new yarn leaving you will extra ends to weave in later.
Also if you are using more than 1 color bead and are wanting to create a pattern with the color, you will need to make sure they are strung on the yarn in the order that you will need them so that the first one you will need will be last one you will string onto the yarn and the last you will will need will be the first you will string onto the yarn.
How to thread the beads on the yarn
First remove a piece of floss from the spool about 10″ to 12″ long so that when folded in half you have about 6″ of floss to work with.
Run the 2 ends of the floss between your fingers so they will stick together.
Thread the end of the floss through the bead.
Gently pull the yarn through the bead.
Continue stringing the beads onto the yarn until all the beads you will need are on the working yarn. As I have mentioned already, having more than you need is always better than not having enough. Just keep the beads pushed down the yarn.
If the end of the floss starts to fray, just trim it or replace with a new piece.
Start your knitting with the end of the yarn. Keep pushing the beads on down the yarn until you need them.
When you are ready to use a bead, put it in between the 2 pegs where you want it to go.
Work the next stitch leaving the bead between the pegs.
This method is great when you want to place a bead between every stitch.
With this method, you need to remember that the yarn will run through the hole of the bead horizontally with only 1 strand of yarn through the bead.
If you are using all knits, the beads will try to hide behind the stitches.
The beads will be more prominent when worked with purls stitches on either side of the bead instead of knits.
It’s good to keep that in mind when adding beads to your work.
Adding Beads As You Go
This method is great when you don’t really know how many beads you will need because you are just winging it by placing beads randomly or just don’t want to count them out. No judgement on that last one… Nope. Been there. Done that.
First thing to remember about both of these methods is that when beads are added as you go, the stitch itself will run through the bead vertically with both strands of the stitch, not horizontally with only 1 strand like the previous method.
Method 1
When adding a bead onto the stitch, you will need to first draw up the the new stitch like working a true knit stitch.
Completely remove the old stitch from the peg and run the dental floss through the new loop.
String the bead onto the floss and then onto the loop.
Tighten up the loop after getting the bead down behind the peg and place the loop onto the peg itself.
Bead is now on the peg with the new stitch.
This method will leave a “hole” on each side of the bead since the stitch itself is sort of cinched through the hole of the bead.
Therefore, I would not recommend using this method on every stitch. But at least skipping a stitch between each bead.
Method 2
With the second method of adding beads as you go, draw up a new stitch but unlike Method 1 do not remove the stitch from the peg.
As before, run the floss through the loop and run the bead onto the loop.
But this time the bead will be in front of the peg.
Place the new loop onto the peg after tightening up the loop so there is not any slack.
Remember to not take the old loop off the peg so that there are 2 loops on the peg with the bead in front of the peg.
Continue with the rest of the row.
On the next row when the peg with the bead is ready to be worked, PURL that stitch so the the bead will be to the front of the work.
If you knit the stitch, the bead will be at the back of the work.
There may be a tiny gap at the top and bottom of the bead, but with this method the bead will sit nicely in front of the fabric.
Like I said before, different people have different ways to add beads to embellish their knits. I hope any of these ways will help when you decide to use beads with your loom knitting projects as well.
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Loom FAQs: How Do I Bind Off In Pattern? Or Beyond The Basic Bind Off…
What does “bind off in pattern” mean? This is actually a question I haven’t seen in loom knitting at all. But having seen “bind off in pattern” in needle knitting has really got me to thinking about binding off and different methods to bind off.
The most common bind off in loom knitting is the basic bind off. This bind off is a great bind off for keeping the tension loose as you work the bind off instead of having to remember to work the previous row looser than normal. But it does add an extra row of knit at the end.
This has prompted me to expand the basic bind off method to include purl stitch so the last row of purl can be the bind off when working garter stitch or even being able to use the basic bind off on ribbing or other stitch patterns that isn’t all knits. Which is where “bind off in pattern” comes into play.
Now let’s revisit the Basic Bind Off and then discuss how to bind off in pattern. And then we will discuss how to make the Basic Bind Off more stretchy by adding a chain stitch between the bind off stitches without using a crochet hook.
Basic Bind Off – Original with Knit Stitch
Chain edge of the Basic Bind Off
The Basic Bind Off is always worked with the working yarn and gives a nice chain edge that matches the Chain Cast On. And also matches the side edges when using the slip stitch. More on using the slip stitch to create a nice chain edge in Loom FAQs: To Slip or Not To Slip? That is the Frequently Asked Question
Now let’s discuss how to work the Basic Bind Off using all knit stitches like we all know and love.
The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time. We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.
Step 1: Knit peg 1.
Step 2: Knit peg 2.
Step 3: Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.
Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.
Step 4: Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.
Step 5: Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.
Step 6: Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.
Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch. Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.
Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the Knit Row
Basic Bind Off – In Pattern including Purl Stitch
What does bind off in pattern mean exactly? It means that the stitches worked on the basic bind off match the stitches in the stitch pattern used.
Wait… What????
Here is where the explanation gets a bit trickier, but I will do the best I can.
Say the project being worked on is in garter stitch. And you want to bind off on the purl row instead of working the purl row then binding off with that extra row of knit.
You will then need to work the basic bind off but purl the stitches instead of knitting them.
Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the purl row
Or you are ending a project in rib stitch. Then you would need to work each stitch on the bind off to match the rib stitch for that row.
Basic Bind Off using Rib Stitch
Basic Bind Off with Rib Stitch while Stretched
Or you are using the seed stitch. You will need to work each stitch of the bind off to match the seed stitch for that row.
Those previous 3 examples are what it means to bind off in pattern. Your bind off matches your stitch pattern.
Now let’s try to write it out without it getting too confusing.
The bind off is still worked over 2 pegs at a time. We will still call them peg 1 and peg 2.
Step 1: Using the stitch that will keep the stitch pattern going for the row, work peg 1.
Step 2: Then work peg 2 in the stitch pattern.
If it is garter and you are binding off on the purl row, then you will purl peg 1 and peg 2. If it’s a 1×1 rib with the first stitch on the row being knit and the second stitch being purl, then you will knit peg 1 and purl peg 2. Or whatever stitch pattern you are using.
Step 3: Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1. Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.
Step 4: Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.
Step 5: Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.
Step 6: Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2. Just remember that you will need to keep up with which peg needs a knit or a purl depending on what your stitch pattern is.
Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch. Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.
Basic Bind Off – Added Chain Stitch Between Bind Off Stitches
Sometimes it is hard to keep the tension loose enough so that the bind off is not too tight. We all struggle with that.
What I always recommend is when working the bind off, make sure the stitch is very loose to the point you think it will be too loose. But it is hard to keep all the stitches the same as you work them.
Here is a variation of the basic bind off where a chain stitch is added between each stitch giving the bind off edge more stretch. And best part is a crochet hook is not need to work this bind off.
But this bind off will leave a little hole between each stitch because of the extra chain between the stitches.
Note: I will use “knit” for the stitch to work each peg. But purl stitch can also be used on any peg to bind off in pattern except when an e-wrap knit is used to make the extra chain.
The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time. We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.
Step 1: Knit peg 1.
Step 2: E-wrap knit peg 1 again by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1 again and knitting over. This is what creates the extra chain stitch.
Step 3: Knit peg 2.
Step 4: Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1. Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.
Step 5: Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.
Step 6: Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.
Step 7: Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.
Repeat steps 2 – 7 until only 1 peg has a stitch. Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.
Now that the Basic Bind Off has been expanded to include more than just knit stitches, the bind off world is endless. Just remember to keep in mind your tension so the bind off edge is not too tight.
Keep on loom knitting!
1 Comment
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I was working on a rib pattern and I tried binding off in pattern using your excellent tutorial and it turned out fantastic. I hope this tutorial will be permanently stored in the “Learn” section of the web site. Actually there are many of these types of learning tutorials that would be easier for beginners to find if they were all stored in one place. Thank you for teaching us this nice techinque.
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Diagonal Cross Stitch: Stitchology 32
Our newest venture into loom knitting stitch discovery is this lovely design that creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric. Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. While this technique will employ the use of a cable needle, it doesn’t actually have any cables. The tool will be used to slip one stitch over 3 others to create the slightly honeycomb feel of this design. Let’s get started!
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.
Special Stitch Instructions
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
The yo-3 in this pattern involves slipping the yo loop over 3 stitches. This begins by creating a new loop which will be used as the yo loop. In the charts, this is noted over the span of 3 sts/squares. In the instructions for the Repeating Pattern Rows, it is written like this: yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.
To do this, follow the below instructions:
1. yo-3 peg: place the working yarn (wy) under the loop already on the peg as if to purl. Pull the wy up through the loop to create a new loop. Place this new loop temporarily on the 2nd peg before the yo-3 peg. (For example: work from right to left: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. Create new loop and bring new loop behind peg 2, and place temporarily on peg 1.)
2. yo-3 peg: U-stitch the yo-3 peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. U-stitch peg.)
3. Purl next peg. (For our example: 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Purl peg 4.)
4. U-stitch next peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. U-stitch peg 5.)
5. Place 3 worked pegs (For our example: pegs 3-5) in order onto the left side of a cable needle. Place new loop being held (For our example: on peg 1) onto far right side of cable needle.
6. Slip the new loop at the right over all three loops at the left, as well as entirely over the top of the cable needle.
7. Replace 3 held loops back onto pegs in order (For our example: pegs 3-5).
Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern
Repeating Pattern Rows- Flat Panel
Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches- Worked in the Round
*Note: The stitches in both charts that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches. The stitches below the border squares are set-up rows to be worked only once, before the repeating rows. In the Flat Panel Chart, the stitches after the border square are worked only once at the end, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed. In the chart for working in the Round, there are stitches before and after the border squares that are worked only once: before all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, and after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, as are shown in each row of the chart.
Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):
Set-Up Rows
Row 1: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 2: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Row 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 4: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 5: k1, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 6: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.
Repeat Rows 3-6 until desired length.
Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):
Set-Up Rounds
Rounds 1 & 2: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Repeating Pattern Rounds
Round 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 4: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Round 5: S1 with working yarn behind, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts. The last stitch of round will carry over to the 1st peg of the same round (which was previously slipped): yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.
Round 6: Begin on peg 2: p1, *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 3-6 until desired length.
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
4 Comments
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Would like to have the larger chart you briefly showed in the video that apparently was used in your sample…love the stitch and am anxious to try it…thanks.
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Hi Bethany, I fell in love with this pattern and I am going to try it on a 90 peg loom repeating the pattern 44 times and the 2 extra pegs. I’m uncertain what cast on to use, but I want to try the cable cast on that matches needle cast on that I learned on good knit kisses you tube videos. Thank you for such a beautiful pattern.
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Whirly Bookmark
Sometimes quick and simple make the best gifts. Bookmarks are a gift that most anyone can use. Pretty yarn and very little time can make a stunning Whirly Bookmark making it great for end of the year teachers’ gifts as well as gifts for any holiday or birthday.
| LOOM: Sock Loom EFG
YARN: 2 yds of 2 weight yarn. Lion Brand Bonbons in Celebrate used in sample. NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle GAUGE: n/a SIZE: Approximately 12” in length |
ABBREVIATIONS
CO=Cast on
Rep=repeat
K=knit
INSTRUCTIONS
Curlicue Instructions
Step 1: e-wrap K peg 1, 4 times
Step 2: figure 8 wrap (see 2 Peg I-Cord Instructions) both pegs and K over, one time
Rep steps 1 & 2 until the curlicue is the length stated in the pattern. Curls may need to be worked into place by hand.
2 Peg I-Cord Instructions
Step 1: Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2. K over.
Rep step 1 until the i-cord is the length stated in the pattern.
Bookmark
Using 2 strands of yarn held together as one, CO 2 pegs by placing the slip knot on peg 1 and wrapping peg 2 Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2. Knit over.
Step 1: Work Curlicue Instructions (above) until the work curls and is about 1” long.
Step 2: Work a 2 peg i-cord until the work is approx. 10” from the end.
Note: If a shorter or longer bookmark is desired, knit the i-cord to the desired length before the next step.
Step 3: Work Curlicue Instructions until the work curls and is about 12” from the end (top curl should be only 2” long).
BO by moving the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2, lift bottom loop over top, cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in, pull the tail through the final loop.
Weave in ends.
1 Comment
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I notice that the 38″ knitting board is available in June 2017. Has it been redesigned? Do the pegs have the groove in them? I just bought one from Amazon thinking that it was discontinued and was disappointed that there are no grooves to guide the pick and it is so much heavier than the other looms, even thought it is longer. Was just surprised.
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Loom FAQs: How Do I Price My Work To Sell?
Lots of people who love any of the fiber arts end up wanting to sell their work. Sometimes it is because they run out of people to make things for as gifts. Or because they have a friend that has asked them to make something in particular. Or sometimes it’s a simple matter of making money to help pay the bills.
This always leads to questions. How do I price my work? Am I asking too much because people seemed surprised when I mention the price? Why am I not selling anything when my prices are low?
While there is nothing really set in stone on how to price handmade items, let’s discuss various ways to go about finding that right price for your items.
What It’s Worth VS. What People Will Pay
When pricing handmade items made of yarn, the first most obvious way is to keep up with the number of hours spent working on the item, multiplying that by an hourly wage, then adding cost of materials used.
Problem with that is even when using minimum wage, the price most likely will be more than most people are willing to pay or can even afford to pay. This doesn’t mean that you don’t deserve that price for the items. We all deserve to be paid more for our work than we can ever sell them for.
So what should I do?
Using The Cost of Supplies As a Guide
Another way to calculate price is to take the cost of yarn used for the project and multiple that by 2 or 3.
This method is used most often. I like to multiply the cost of yarn by 3 because I do not want to undersell myself. If the item is very time consuming due to it being a complex pattern, I will always add $10 to $50 depending on the size of the item and how long it took to complete.
But that seems too high to ask.
Most people do tend to under price their items. They think that people will not pay a higher price for their work.
Let me just say this. Never underestimate the value of your work.
Some people will not buy an item if they think it’s too cheap. They may think you use inferior yarn. Or that there is something wrong with it.
But people complain about it being too high, and they are able to buy it at a store cheaper.
There is always people who will complain about the price. If they think they can get the same exact item with the same exact quality for less at a store, I can guarantee they will be in for a huge surprise. Machine or sweat shop made items are not high quality. They will not hold up to time and wear.
In other words, they will get what they pay for.
But I bought my yarn on sale. Do I use that price?
If you buy your yarn on sale, I would recommend not using that price, but the regular price the yarn retails for. That way if you need to make the same item again with the same yarn but need to buy more, your price will already cover the yarn not being on sale at that time.
Compare Prices
If you are still unsure of what to charge for something, look on the selling sites for similar items and see what those are selling for. Then you can price your items accordingly.
Geographic Area Dictates Price As Well
Don’t forget that items that sell for higher prices in places that are known for artists and tourism will not sell for as much in small towns and lower populated areas. Also places where the income is lower will need to have lower prices on handmade items than in places where income is higher.
Therefore you should always take into consideration where you live, who you are selling to, and how much people can pay for handmade, unique items.
So how much should I charge?
When considering how much to charge for something, it really all comes down to 3 things: location, price of supplies, and personal consideration. Each person values their time and effort differently. Therefore, it is a personal preference as to how much each item is worth when selling it.
Is it too high? Is it priced too low??
Only you can be the judge of that. Just because it doesn’t sell at a certain price does not mean it’s priced too high. Only that the right person hasn’t seen it yet to buy it at that price.
Remember This
There will always be people who will complain about the price. ALWAYS. And there will always be people who will offer you a lower price. Therefore it is better to price your items on the high side so you do have room to for those that offer less.
And if they still complain about the price being too high, here’s a suggestion on how to deal with them. Already know how much the price for that same item is when using the hourly wage price calculation. Then explain to them that if you were wanting to get paid a hourly rate for your work like they get paid at their job (tell them what that per hour rate is and how long it took to make the item along with cost of materials) that the price would be this amount instead (tell them the higher price) and that you are wanting to give them a price cut to begin with.
Most people really have no clue how long it takes to make these things. While putting it into perspective for them may not cause them to pay the price you are asking, at least then they will now be enlightened. Or not. Some people can never be enlightened…
Just remember to not be rude. State the facts in a matter of fact manner. And always with a smile. If you keep on smiling to rude people, it makes them feel uncomfortable. I love doing that…
NEVER UNDER ESTIMATE THE VALUE OF YOUR WORK!! Whatever you do, do NOT price your items too low. Your time and effort is always worth more than you can ever earn for a certain piece. Just consider it a gift to mankind at whatever price you sell it for because you will always deserve more than you earn.
After all, it is art. Always. ART. No matter if it’s a hat, scarf, or blanket. And whoever buys it will treasure it for what it is. ART. Love is put in every piece. If even made just for selling, you love the craft, or you wouldn’t do it. Not like you are working in a sweat shop with no option otherwise.
In short, again, YOU ARE WORTH IT. Price your work accordingly. Is it correct? Yes. If you are comfortable with the price, then it is correct. Even then, it’s probably too low. But as long as you are happy with what you are paid, then it’s worth it. Don’t let others tell you otherwise.
And as a side note… If you are taking a commission to make something for someone, please get at least half if not all the money up front. That way you will not be out any money if they change their mind. And NEVER give them the item until full payment is made. I have seen so many lose money by trusting people to pay them after they receive the item. Unfortunately, friendships have ended over this very thing. Just be careful and get paid up front.
Keep on loom knitting those lovely projects whether they are for yourself, for loved ones as gifts, or for sell no matter what the reason. YOU ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY!!!
4 Comments
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I want the rest of the pattern for THE BALLERINA BABY SOCKS. It only gives instructions down to the heel and that’s it. I feel it should tell how long to knit from heel to toe and then the instructions to casting off or ending the socks. Otherwise the picture and the instructions to the heel is great but only half of the instructions are there. Thank you, Please send me the rest of the instructions.
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I don’t know how you know what many of us are thinking. ? I have been wrestling with this question for a while myself. Thank you for your input. But, you didn’t offer any suggestions where.
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Twisted Pearl Stitch (double knit)
Knitting in double knit with Rib stitches can create so many varieties, but each one is a new stitch to use in many applications. Rib creates a very stretchy knit that retains its shape.
With the Twisted Pearl Stitch, the back of this stitch looks just the same so it is a good one for showing both sides.
Very pretty and similar to our traditional Rib, but you will find that the ribs are tighter in this stitch, and the same on both sides.
The background weave shows an angle strand when the rib is opened. (See up close insert.) Be sure to work with an even number of stitches.
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Loom: 10” knitting loom or any loom with 22 + pegs with a width of 1 cm between rows of pegs.
Yarn: Any #4 worsted weight yarn in wool, acrylic or blend. Sample square is knit with Lion Brand Heartland.
Abbreviations: L=left, R=right
Close up detail of this stitch with color background.
Instructions:
Cast On 22 stitches in pattern working L to R with at least (1) open peg to L of slip knot.
(Option would be to cast on with stockinette, lay anchor yarn, and wrap in pattern for row #1)
So, let’s see how it looks on the loom: We are creating a square that is approximately 10″ X 10″ just to learn the new stitch. When complete, makes a great wash cloth.
Step 1: Start with a slip knot on peg 2 top.
Step 2: Wrap straight down around peg 2 bottom.
Step 3: Bring yarn back to peg 1 and wrap around top peg from inside to outside and straight down around bottom peg #1.
Step 4: Bring yarn from bottom peg 1 to top peg 4, wrap around top of peg and down to bottom peg 4 and wrap.
Step 5: Go back to peg 3 top wrapping to L and down around the bottom peg.
Step 6: You will see that the repeat is to skip a peg, wrap the next peg, top to bottom pegs straight down, and then go back to skipped peg and wrap the pegs around top, going straight down to bottom peg. Then repeat skipping the next stitch.
Step 7: Work in this manner across the 22 pegs. Lay a piece of anchor yarn.
Turn the loom around, so that you are again working from L to R. This shows the return over the anchor yarn.
Move yarn to 2nd stitch and repeat the process starting with step 3.
Continue working this row for the design.
Stitches ready to hook over.
Row is complete.
Rib Stitch Variations! Twisted Purl Stitch (tan) Spiraling Rib Stitch (pink), and the Bamboo Stitch (white).
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NEW PATTERNS
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Mountain Sun Hat w/ Brim
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Father’s Day Loom Knits
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Bellerose Socks
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Skull Socks
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Aqua Stripe Blanket (42″ x 50″)
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Water Lily Lace Scarf
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Farmer’s Market Bag
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Moonstone Shawl
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Baby Kala Hat and Booties
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Xs And Os Cable Headband
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Open Rib Stitch (double knit in the round)
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Cable Stitch (double knit in the round)
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Chickie Baby Sweater
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Thick & Quick Cable Mittens
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Lacy Shimmer Hat & Cowl (double knit)
WOW! This is just wonderful news. Thank you to the folks at Knitting Board!
OMG!!! I had asked you if you could make a rotating loom with 36pegs, and if not, could you make something rotating to hold looms. You answered back by saying to watch for something new at the end of the year… And you did it. Actually you made 2 new items, but you made the rotating loom bigger, not smaller. But, unfortunately, I cant purchase both items because they are a little to pricy. I will not use the original loom that comes with the rotating base, so it would be a waste to purchase it. All in all, it is a terrific new concept.
Can the looms that are made for the rotating loom, be put on this one? I Have the orginal and just bought the new one Without the base). Was wondering if it can be put on this so that I can have 2 projects going at the same time.
This sounds great, what is the price of the Loom Holder connectors.? I already have the rotating double knit loom……..Jettie
I think that is awesome
I like it! I have enjoyed all the looms I have purchased over the years. This is the best idea so far. As soon as Christmas is over, I’m purchasing this!
Wow this is awesome. Looks like it will come in handy for all KB loooms
Brilliant! This will help me continue to work a a blanket using the S KB loom?
I have made a similar set up with some blocks on my KB rotating loom so I could use my KB orange loom, and it worked, but I seriously love what your team came up with, and would love to give these a try? Thanks to your team for always coming up with great ideas?
Where is the add to cart? Can’t find the option to buy….
This is an awesome idea! When will it be available?
Interesting
Hi
Can I use the rotating connectors on a loops and thread s loom ?
Is there a round loom I can make a hat with Chunky wool.(6). Also
is the small loom on the Rotating Loom the hat size for a baby?
Thank you kindly
Fran
Do you have a bigger floor version?
I have a set of the table top connectors.
Will you be selling the loom holder and connectors separately? I do not need anymore looms, but I would really love to have the holder and connectors and would purchase them immediately if they became available. Buying more looms would just be a waste of money for me as I have all I need or want. Just the holder and connectors would be wonderful.