Twists & Ribs Baby Hat and Booties

 

Designed by Isela Phelps

LOOM:  Baby-Knit Looms

YARN:  Approx 160 yds of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Red Heart Chic yarn, 1 skein (less than 1 skein used) in Suite used in sample.

NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional), stitch markers (4).

GAUGE: 11 sts and 16 rows = 2”

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 56 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 9: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p to end.

Rnd 10: TW, p1, ew1, p1, TW, p1, ew1, p1, TW, k to end.

Rnd 11: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p to end.

Rnd 12: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, k to end.

Rep Rnds 9-12: until hat measures approximately 5.5 inches from cast on edge.

Next 2 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Remove the item with Modified Gather Bind Off

Modified Gather Bind Off Instructions

Cut 2 pieces of yarn that are approximately 24 inches long.

Thread tapestry needle with one of the pieces of yarn. Remove all the purl stitches onto the piece of yarn.

Thread the second piece of yarn and remove all the knit stitches from the loom.

Locate the first piece of yarn and cinch the purl stitches tightly close.

Locate the second piece of scrap yarn and cinch it all the knit stitches.

Tightly weave all tail ends to the wrong side of the hat.

 

 

Video Tutorial for Hat

 

Easy Baby Booties 

NOTES: Heel and Toe use the German Short-row method.

INSTRUCTIONS

Leg

Cast on 24 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 9-13: k to end of rnd.

Heel—follow Heel Instructions

Sole and Instep

Next 14 rnds: k to end of rnd.

Toe—follow same instructions as for Heel

Bind off with Kitchener Stitch.

https://www.knittingboard.com/kitchener-stitch-page/

Weave ends in.

 

German Short-Row Instructions (24-peg loom—heel over 12 pegs). 

How-to short row: knit the peg, bring the working yarn from the back to the front of the peg, gently tug on the yarn and bring it to the adjacent peg to knit.  

Row 1: Knit from peg 1 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 12.

Row 2: Knit from peg 11 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 1.

Row 3: Knit from peg 2 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.

Row 4: Knit from peg 10 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 2.

Row 5: Knit from peg 3 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.

Row 6: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.

Row 7: Knit from peg 4 to peg 9. Short-row on peg 9.

Row 8: Knit from peg 9 to peg 4. Short-row on peg 4.

Row 9: Knit from peg 5 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.

Row 10: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.

Row 11: Knit from peg 4 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.

Row 12: Knit from peg 10 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 2.

Row 13: Knit from peg 3 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 12.

Row 14: Knit from peg 11 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 1.

Row 15: Knit from peg 2 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 13.

Row 16: Knit from peg 12 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 24.

You will have the short-row on pegs 13 and 24. When working this round on the next round, treat the stitches as normal.

 

 

Video Tutorial for Baby Booties

PIN IT

1 Comment

• Rosie July 2, 2019 at 8:16 am

  Thank you for a fantastic video but is there any chance of losing the music as at times it’s harder to hear what’s being said…
  Thank you

Basic Gloves (4 sizes)

Designed by Renita Harvey

Get ready to knit the entire family custom-sized gloves!

These basic gloves have full fingers that are worked for the length desired.

Detailed written instructions with pictures as well as a video tutorial will help even the beginner loom knitter that is adventurous to be able to create a work of art to keep their hands warm.

Great small project to work on in the summer months so grab the All-n-One Loom with 2 sets of sliders for the size needed and get started on a project like no other!

 

Loom:  18″ All-n-One Loom with 2 sets of 2 peg sliders for sizes Small and Medium, and 2 sets of 1 peg sliders for sizes Child and Large

Yarn:  125-246 yds Worsted/4 weight yarn.  Lion Brand Yarn Jeans and Jeans Colors, 1 ball per pair, Colors Jumpsuit, Bermuda Shorts, Capri, and Top Stitch used in Samples

Notions:  loom tool, stitch markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle, US size 6/4.00mm double point needles

Gauge:  10 sts x 16 rows = 2”

Sizes:  Child, Small – Teens/Ladies Small, Medium – Ladies Average, Large – Ladies Large/Men’s Small

Step by step VIDEO

ABBREVIATIONS

K – Knit  Note:  E-wrap knit is not recommended for this project.  True knit is the recommended knit stitch.  U-wrap or flat knit may be used if needed to achieve gauge.

P – Purl

YO – Yarn Over

CO – Cast On

BO – Bind Off

SSK – Slip Slip Knit

K2tog – Knit 2 Together

C – Child

S – Small

M – Medium

L – Large

 

TECHNIQUES

SSK

Left slanting decrease.

 

Worked over 2 stitches with stitch 1 on the right and stitch 2 on left,move the stitch from peg 2 to peg 1.  Knit both together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K2tog 

Right slanting decrease.

 

Worked over 2 stitches with stitch 1 on the right and stitch 2 on the left, move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.  Knit both together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

Gathered Cast On 

 

Place slip knot on neighboring peg.

 

 

 

 

Round 1:  Working from right to left, wrap peg 1, skip peg 2 with working yarn to the back of the peg, and continue wrapping the odd number pegs and skipping the even number pegs around until back to peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

Round 2:  Knit pegs that have been wrapped and bring working yarn to the front of the pegs that were skipped until all pegs have been worked.

 

 

 

 

Cast on complete and ready for row 1.  After working several rows, remove slip knot and gather the cast on edge.

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2.

Instructions are written for size Small with the other sizes in parentheses.  Small (Child, Medium, Large)

Note:  Pictures are showing size Small being worked.  Peg counts and sliders used may differ for other sizes.

Use the peg sliders as follows for the size being worked:

Child – 1 peg sliders

Small – 2 peg sliders

Medium – 2 peg sliders

Large – 1 peg sliders

 

Row Chart for Fingers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pinky Finger

Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the pinky finger with 10 (8, 12, 14) pegs.

CO with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.

Work number of rows for the length of the pinky finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.

Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.

Place stitches from the inside slider on stitch holders.  For size L, also place the stitches next to the inside slider on stitch holders as well.  Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 3)

 

 

 

 

 

Ring Finger

Take the slider on the inside of the loom off.  Turn it around so the groove is facing the pinky finger and place it back on.  Add the 3^rd slider.

Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the ring finger with 10 (8, 12, 14) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M.  Do not skip a peg on size L.

CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.

Work number of rows for the length of the ring finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.

Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.

Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders.  For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well.  Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 3) on each end of the ring finger.  1 peg remains empty between the pinky and ring fingers on both sides on all sizes now.

 

 

 

Middle Finger

Take the slider on the inside of the loom off.  Remove the slider that is between the pinky and ring fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out.  Tighten the nut again.  Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the ring finger and place it back on.  Add the 3^rd slider.

Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the middle finger with 12 (10, 14, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M.  Do not skip a peg on size L.

CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.

Work number of rows for the length of the middle finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.

Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.

Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders.  For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well.  Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 3) on each end of the middle finger.  1 peg remains empty between the ring and middle fingers on each side on all sizes now.

 

 

Pointer Finger

Take the slider on the inside of the loom off.  Remove the slider that is between the ring and middle fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out.  Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the middle finger and place it back on.  Add the 3^rd slider.

Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the pointer finger with 10 (10, 12, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M.  Do not skip a peg on size L.

CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.

Work number of rows for the length of the pointer finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.

Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.

Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders for all sizes.  For size L, also place the stitches next to the slider by the middle finger on stitch holders as well.  Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 1) on the end of the loom by the pointer finger and 2 (1, 2, 3) between the pointer and middle fingers.  1 peg remains empty between the middle and pointer fingers on both sides on all sizes now.

Take the slider on the inside of the loom off.  Remove the slider that is between the middle and pointer fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out.

 

Replace the end slider and place the stitches on stitch holders on the end back on the slider.

 

 

 

 

 

Hand Between Base of Fingers and Thumb

Place stitch marker for peg 1 on pinky finger as shown at the end of the loom. Join working yarn and prepare to work in the round.

Next 12 (10, 14, 15) rounds work all knits.  YO empty pegs on the 1^st round and knit those on round 2.  36 (36, 44, 46) stitches total.

Place stitches from insider slider on stitch holders.  For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well.  Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 1, ) on the end by the pointer finger.

Do not cut working yarn.

 

Thumb

Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the pointer finger and place it back on.  Add the 3^rd slider.

Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the thumb with 12 (10, 14, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M.  Do not skip a peg on size L.

Using the yarn end from the other end of the ball, CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.

Tip:  Start on the other side of the loom so the ending yarn tail will be between the thumb and pointer finger to use for seaming.

Work number of rows for the length of the thumb from the Row Chart for Fingers.

Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.

Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders for all sizes.  For size L on the side next to the pointer finger, also place the stitches next to the both slider on stitch holders as well.    Number of stitches on stitch holders:  2 (1, 2, 1) on the outside of the thumb and 2 (1, 2, 3) between thumb and pointer finger.  1 peg remains empty between the thumb and pointer finger on all sizes now.

Take the slider on the inside of the loom off.  Remove the slider that is between the pointer finger and thumb.

Replace the end slider and place the stitches on stitch holders on the end back on the slider pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bottom of Hand Below Thumb

Pick up working yarn from peg 1 on pinky finger.

Next 3 (2, 4, 5) rounds work all knits.  YO empty pegs on the 1^st round and knit those on round 2.  46 (46, 56, 58) stitches total.

Note:  sizes are written individually from here to cuff.  Please use the appropriate instructions for the size being made.

 

Child Size

Begin decreasing on thumb end.  Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.

R1:  K20, SSK, K1, K2tog, K21

R2:  K all

R3:  K19, SSK, K1, K2tog, K20

R4:  K all

R5:  K18, SSK, K1, K2tog, K19 – 40 stitches total

R6:  K all

Begin decreasing on both ends.  Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.

R7:  K2tog, K15, SSK, K1, K2tog, K15, SSK, K1

R8:  K all

R9:  K2tog, K13, SSK, K1, K2tog, K13, SSK, K1

R10:  K all

R11:  K2tog, K11, SSK, K1, K2tog, K11, SSK, K1 – 28 stitches total

R12:  K all

Proceed to Cuff

 

Small Size

Begin decreasing on thumb end.  Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.

R1:  K19, SSK, K2, K2tog, K21

R2:  K all

R3:  K18, SSK, K2, K2tog, K20

R4:  K all

R5:  K17, SSK, K2, K2tog, K 19 – 40 stitches total

R6-10:  K all

Begin decreasing on both ends.  Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.

R11:  K2tog, K15, SSK, K2, K2tog, K15, SSK, K2

R12:  K all

R13:  K2tog, K12, SSK, K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2 – 32 stitches total

R14:  K all

Proceed to Cuff

 

Medium Size

Begin decreasing on thumb end.  Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.

R1:  K24, SSK, K2, K2tog, K26

R2:  K all

R3:  K23, SSK, K2, K2tog, K25

R4:  K all

R5:  K22, SSK, K2, K2tog, K24

R6:  K all

R7:  K21, SSK, K2, K2tog, K23

R8:  K all

R9:  K20, SSK, K2, K2tog, K23

R10:  K all

R11:  K19, SSK, K2, K2tog, K21 – 44 stitches total

R12:  K all

Begin decreasing on both ends.  Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.

R13:  K2tog, K16, SSK, K2, K2tog, K16, SSK

R14:  K all

R15:  K2tog, K14, SSK, K2, K2tog, K14, SSK – 36 stitches total

R16:  K all

Proceed to Cuff

 

Large Size

Begin decreasing on thumb end.  Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.

R1:  K26, SSK, K1, K2tog, K27

R2:  K all

R3:  K25, SSK, K1, K2tog, K26

R4:  K all

R5:  K24, SSK, K1, K2tog, K25

R6:  K all

R7:  K23, SSK, K1, K2tog, K24

R8:  K all

R9:  K22, SSK, K1, K2tog, K23 – 48 stitches total

R10-14:  K all

Begin decreasing on both ends.  Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.

R11:  K2tog, K19, SSK, K1, K2tog, K19, SSK, K1

R12:  K all

R13:  K2tog, K17, SSK, K1, K2tog, K17, SSK, K1 – 40 stitches total

R14:  K all

Proceed to Cuff

 

Cuff

Next 10 (8, 12, 14, 16) rounds, *K2, P2, rep from * to end

BO off with the ribbing method.

 

Ribbing Bind Off

Wrap working yarn 3x around the pegs with the work.

Cut working yarn and thread on a tapestry needle.

Tip:  Keep yarn tail pulled tight while working bind off.  

 

 

Run needle DOWN through the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

Run needle UP through the stitch on the last peg (to the right).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring yarn tail behind peg 1, run needle DOWN through the stitch on peg 2.

 

 

 

 

Run needle UP through the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

Proceed to peg 3 and continue with running the needle DOWN through the stitch that hasn’t been worked and then back UP through the stitch to the right that was previously worked until all stitches have been worked.

Finish by running needle back UP through peg 1.

Take glove off the loom.

 

Finishing

Work Kitchener Stitch to join the stitches left on the stitch holders between the fingers.

Note:  While the holes between the fingers may be simply sewn closed, the combination of the Kitchener and Mattress Stitches is recommended for a cleaner seam.

 

*Place the live stitches on stitch holders between the Pinky and Ring Fingers on the double point needles.

Hold work with the side with the yarn tail that was left for seaming toward the back.

Run the first double point needle through the first stitch on the right from right to left from the back of the stitch to the front.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue to run the double point needle from right to left from the back of the stitch to the front until all stitches on the back are loaded on the needle.  Number of stitches will range from 1 on child size to 3 stitches on the large size.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run the second double point needle through the first stitch on the right from right to left from the front of the stitch to the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue to run the double point needle from right to left from the front of the stitch to the back until all stitches on the front are loaded on the needle.  Number of stitches will range from 1 on child size to 3 stitches on the large size.

 

 

 

 

Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail.

**Run tapestry needle through first stitch on front needle from right to left as shown.  Leave stitch on double point  needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run tapestry needle through first stitch on back needle from left to right as shown.  Leave stitch on double point needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run tapestry needle through the front stitch from left to right.  Remove the stitch from the double point needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run tapestry needle through the next front stitch from right to left.  Leave stitch on double point needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run tapestry needle through the stitch from right to left.  Remove the stitch from the double point needle.

 

 

 

 

 

Run tapestry needle through the next back stitch from left to right.  Leave stitch on double point needle.

 

 

 

Continue from ** until all stitches have been removed from the double point needles.

 

 

Stitches are joined with yarn tail on the left side.

 

 

Now to seam each side of the Kitchener join with the Mattress stitch.

 

 

***Run tapestry needle through the bottom stitch on the right side of the opening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run the tapestry needle under the leg between the stitches on the left side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run the tapestry needle back through the same place the needle was drawn through before and back up between the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run the tapestry needle through the top of the stitch on the left side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat on the right side as before.

 

 

 

 

 

Run the working yarn back to the inside down between the line of stitches to finish closing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat from *** on the other side of the Kitchener join.

 

 

 

Repeat from * between each finger until all are seamed.

Weave in ends.

Step by Step Pattern Video

2 Comments

• Susan Ertel June 26, 2019 at 10:16 am

  Can I use the 28″ loom okay to make these gloves as I have one of these, then I just need the sliders?
• Renita Harvey July 15, 2019 at 9:57 am

  Hello, Susan! You can use the 28″ loom to make the gloves, BUT I need to warn you that the gauge is different. The All-n-One loom is 3/8″ while the 28″ is 7/16″. While that doesn’t seem like a lot, it will affect the size of the final product.

  Unless you can achieve gauge because you are a tight knitter, keep in mind that you may need to go down a size since the the glove itself will be bigger on the larger gauge. Also it will change how many rows to knit for the fingers for the length since those are based on achieving gauge.

  I would recommend working a swatch on your 28″ and checking your gauge. Then go from there. But yes. It can be done. Just remember you will need 2 sets of sliders!

  I hope all that makes sense! Good luck!
  Renita

Xs And Os Cable Headband

Designed by Renita Harvey

This headband incorporates decorative elastic for added texture and design! Give a little extra love and warmth with hugs and kisses (“Xs” and “Os” ) and it’s also wide enough to cover ears.

Pattern includes full video tutorials for both the tradition method of loom knitting cables as well as peg sharing method.

LOOM:  KB 32 Peg Loom, total 19 pegs used.

YARN: 75 yds of worsted/4 weight 80% acrylic /20% wool yarn.  Lion Brand Wool-Ease in color Blush Heather used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, cable needle, tapestry needle, 1.5 yds ½” decorative fold over elastic, sewing thread, sewing needle

GAUGE:  19 sts x 16 rows = 2.66” in stitch pattern

SIZE:  Adult

LEVEL:  Intermediate/Advanced

 

ABBREVIATIONS

K – Knit stitch

P – Purl stitch

S – Slip (skip)

C4F – Cable 4 Front

C4B – Cable 4 Back

CO – Cast on

BO – Bind off

St(s) – Stitch(es)

R – row

Rem – Remain

Rep – Repeat

Approx – Approximately

SPECIAL STITCHES 

C4F – Worked over 4 stitches: Skip sts on peg 1 and 2, knit pegs 3 and 4, place sts from pegs 3 and 4 on cable needle and hold to the back, knit pegs 1 and 2, place sts from peg 1 on peg 3 and st on peg 2 on peg 4, place sts held on cable needle on pegs 1 and 2

C4B – Worked over 4 stitches: Place sts on pegs 1 and 2 on cable needle and hold to the back, knit pegs 3 and 4, move st from peg 3 to peg 1 and st from 4 to peg 2, place sts held on cable needle on pegs 3 and 4, knit pegs 3 and 4

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 CO 19 sts.  Prepare to work a flat panel.

R1:  *P1, K8, rep from * once, P1

R2:  Rep R1

R3: P1, C4B, C4F, P1, C4F, C4B, P1

R4 – 6:  Rep R1

R7:  Rep R3

R8 – 10:  Rep R1

R11:  P1, C4F, C4B, P1 C4B, C4F, P1

R12 – 14:  Rep R1

R15:  Rep R11

R16:  Rep 1

Rep R1 – 16, 8 times

BO

Cut working yarn leaving a yarn tail of approx. 8” to use for seaming.

Block.

 

ASSEMBLY

Bring the CO and BO edges together without twisting.

Using the long tail from the BO, seam the CO and BO edges together.

Weave in ends.

Cut 2 pieces of decorative elastic 20” long.

Weave the first length of elastic through the holes in the O’s on one side as shown.

Weave the second length of elastic through the other side in the same manner.

Making sure the elastic is not twisted, overlap the ends of one side of elastic by ¼” and sew using the sewing thread and sewing needle.

Repeat sewing the ends of the elastic on the other side.

 

VIDEO LINKS by Renita Harvey

Peg Sharing Cable Method

 Classic Cable Method

 

1 Comment

• Deanna March 23, 2019 at 7:22 pm

  I enjoy your patterns and I have a suggestion. I like the listing of yarns used in the sample but many of these aren’t available where I am able to shop. If there could be a note as to the total yardage needed it would be very helpful in substituting other brands of yarn. Thank you.

Baby Buttercup Skirt

Designed by Isela Phelps

My inspiration for this little skirt is clear, it is my little darling girl. Lately, I have been dreaming up little knits for her to wear. 

LOOM: orange loom from Premium Round Loom Set, 80 pegs

YARN:  approx 140 yards of worsted weight mercerized merino wool. Red Heart Chic Sheep in Green Tea

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size H (to crochet the chain to use to cinch the skirt)

GAUGE: 9.5 sts x 15 rows= 2 inches in stockinette

SIZE: 6-12 months

NOTE: Stitch pattern is over 10 stitches, to make a smaller/larger size, use a knitting loom with a multiple of 10 pegs

ABBREVIATIONS

approx=approximately

k=knit stitch or u-stitch (not ewrap)

p=purl stitch

cdd=centered double decrease. Over 3 pegs. Move loops to the sides to the center peg. Example: Peg 3-Peg 2- Peg 1, move loop from peg 1 to peg 2.  Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. When working the centered peg, treat all loops as one loop.

yo=yarn over

rnd(s)=round(s)

st(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Skirt

Cast on 80 sts, join to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1 and Rnd 3: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 2 and Rnd 4: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 5: *k1, yo, k3, cdd, k3, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 6: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 7: *k2, yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 9: *k3, yo, k1, cdd, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to end

Rnd 10: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: *k4, yo, cdd, yo, k3; rep from * to end

Rnd 12: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 12: until panel measures approx. 7-inches from cast on edge.

Next 5 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end

Bind off with basic bind off method.

 

Tie

Crochet a chain that is approximately 22 inches in length.

Assembly

Pass the chain through the ribbing section of the skirt, skipping over the purl stitches (see pictures below). Make a knot at each end of the crochet chain.

Weave all ends in, block lightly.

 

 

4 Comments

• Cathie June 30, 2018 at 5:55 am

  What a cutie pie! The perfect model for this adorable little shirt. Question, the 80 peg loom you are referring to, what is the gauge?
  TYIA
  Cathie
• Isela Phelps July 13, 2018 at 2:11 pm

  It is small gauge.
• Gin July 17, 2018 at 12:42 pm

  A question that I hope you can answer here even thou it is not about this beautiful skirt
  I was wondering if you have made video 3and 4 on the new sock loom and if so where can I find it
  Thanks
• Isela Phelps July 17, 2018 at 12:44 pm

  No, I haven’t gotten to it yet.

‘Stripes’ Hat

Lots of stripes, all ways – vertical and horizontal!  This is a fun hat for any level of knitter.  Choose your favorite color combination, and let the stripes begin!

Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom

Yarn:  Two different yarns used in sample, both #5 Chunky. Premier Serenity Chunky, Smoke Heather, 1 skein. Red Heart Soft Essentials, Greyhound, 1 skein.  Both yarns are 100% Acrylic and machine washable.

Stitches:  Stockinette and Figure 8

Notions:  Knit Hook, Crochet Hook, Darning Needle

Size:  Adult, 10” deep

Gauge:  5 rounds=1 inch

Abbreviations:  Rnd (s)=Round(s),  Aprox=approximately   Lt gray yarn=yarn 1  dark gray heather=yarn 2

Vertical stripes:  These rnds are worked with both yarns, always covering the same pegs with each yarn.  To cast on the loom, create a separate slip knot with each yarn.  Place first yarn slip knot on beginning peg. Wrap around loom with first color. Then with second round, attach the second color on first peg on inner loom (opposite the loop knot with first color). Wrap around loom, covering pegs skipped in first round.

Each round will end with one yarn coming from the outer loom, and one yarn coming from the inner loom. Repeat process covering all pegs with 2nd loop (see photo). Then hook over the bottom loop over top loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast On 52 stitches in Stockinette with both yarns to create the vertical stripes.  Lay anchor yarn.

Rnds 1- 8:  Work in Stockinette with both yarns in vertical stripes.

Rnds 9-11:  Lay yarn 2 aside and work with yarn 1 in Stockinette. (3 rnds)

Rnds 12-14:  Lay yarn 1 aside and work with yarn 2 in Stockinette.  (3 rnds)

Double Vertical Stripes:  Rnds 15-19 (5 rnds) will be in Figure 8 stitch.  Lay yarn 2 aside and work full rnd with yarn 1, on every other 2 stitches.  Wrap front to back of same stitch working 2 stitches, skip 2 pegs, and work next 2 pegs. Wrap each stitch in direction like the number 8. Keep this process going until you have a full rnd and are back to beginning.  Lay yarn 1 aside and work the round covering the skipped stitches, front to back, in Figure 8 with yarn 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rnds 20-22:  Cut yarn 1 and tie off with yarn 2.  Work 3 rnds in Stockinette with yarn 2.

Rnds 23-25:  Place a new loop knot of yarn 1 on beginning peg and work in Stockinette for 3 rnds.

Next 12 rnds:  With both yarns attached and on beginning pegs, repeat the vertical stripes as in the first 8 rnds.

Rnd 38:  Lay yarn 2 aside and work one rnd with yarn 1 in Stockinette.  Cut yarn 1 with 2-3” tail.

Rnd 39-44:  Knot yarn 2 with yarn 1 tail.  Work in stockinette with yarn 2 for 6 rnds.

Hat should measure 9.5”-10” high and you are ready to bind off, and close up the hat crown.

Bind Off:  Cut yarn 2 with aprox 20” yarn tail.  Gently pull stitches snug on pegs.  Move the loops from inner loom to same stitch on outer loom, so that the inner loom is empty.  Hook over each stitch, so that you have just one loop on each peg on outer loom.

Place the yarn tail on large darning needle.  You will be transferring the loops onto the yarn for the gather bind off.

Moving from R to L, insert the needle thru the loop from underneath and allow it to slide onto the yarn.  Remove it from the loom.  Pick up next loop and allow it to slide onto the yarn and remove it from the loom.  Continue around the loom lifting each loop and transferring it to the yarn, until all loops are on the yarn.  The hat is now free of the loom and it can be lifted up and off the loom.

Finishing:  Leave the yarn on the darning needle.  Gently, gather the top edge of the hat by pulling the yarn and drawing the top of hat together.  Once the opening is small, you can take the yarn to inside of hat and use the darning needle to sew the hat closed.  Knot securely.  Leave the yarn tail attached to use to sew on the pompom.

Work a single crochet bind off of cast on stitches using the crochet hook.  Be sure to work towards the yarn tail, so that you end the bind off at the yarn tail. Once you have worked all the stitches on the anchor yarn, there will be only the one loop on the crochet hook. Pull the yarn tail thru the last loop to knot.  Gently remove the anchor yarn.

Weave in all yarn tails that may remain, or pull to inside of hat and trim.  This is best done with the crochet hook.

Pompom:  You will make a crochet chain of each color yarn that is aprox 40” long with the crochet hook. Start with a loop knot, pulled so that it is about the size of a pencil. Insert the crochet hook into the loop, grab the yarn and pull it thru the loop so that you have a new loop.  Grab the yarn again, and keep going in this manner to create the chain.  Once you have aprox 40” of crochet chain, knot the last loop.  Trim ends to about ½”.  Repeat the process with the other yarn.

 

Once you have both yarn chains complete, roll them together as if making a Christmas bow.  Tie in center and knot.  If you would rather, you can make a traditional pompom or tassels.  Just have fun with the adornment!

Sew securely to top of hat using the yarn tail and darning needle.  Cut end of yarn after sewing is complete and weave in yarn tail into the knit, or pull to inside of hat.

 

8 Comments

• Nicole F. Cox February 15, 2018 at 7:54 am

  I love everything about this hat, the color, stripes, the top…so good! Great post!
• Gin February 18, 2018 at 12:53 pm

  Is there a stitchology for February?
• Virginia February 18, 2018 at 1:22 pm

  Is there a stitcholgy for February?
• Isela Phelps February 21, 2018 at 9:10 am

  Stitchology has been canceled. Our lovely designer has other wonderful opportunities that she is pursuing.
• Isela Phelps February 21, 2018 at 9:11 am

  Stitchology has been canceled. Our lovely designer has other wonderful opportunities that she is pursuing.
• Gin February 21, 2018 at 9:18 am

  Sorry to hear stitcholgy has been discontinued
• Jean Blackley February 22, 2018 at 4:14 am

  Can this hat be made with #4 weight yarn?
• Pat March 15, 2018 at 6:03 pm

  Hi Jean,
  The hat could be done in #4 yarn but the result would be thinner and the change of color may show a bit between the stripes. Also, the hat will be a little smaller but will fit head circumference of about 20-21″. The sample hat fits looser or up to head circumference of 23″.

NEW…’His and Her’ Sock Loom Set

 

“OH look, honey, we can have matching socks”….

Brand new to the sock loom collection!  His & Her Sock Looms are here!

Now available, stationary fine gauge sock looms, with plastic pegs. The pegs are engineered specifically for ease of use, lifting yarn over pegs, and ‘staying put’ in the loom.

There are 2 looms in the set, the purple loom creates a large adult size sock, 64 pegs (HIS) and the orange loom creates an average adult size sock, 56 pegs (HERS).  In sizing, we refer to the width of the sock, or size of the leg opening. The length of the sock, and foot can be knit as long as desired.

No more counting pegs. Easy and superb for beginners!

 

The sock loom set includes full ‘step by step’ instructions for knitting socks in both sizes, adult and adult- large. DK weight sock yarn is recommended for best results.  Worsted #4 sock yarn can be used for a tighter knit, thicker sock.

Check out our new basic sock patterns!  Bethany Dailey’s  Keepin’ It Simple Socks, is great for men or for anyone with a larger width- knit with the purple loom.

For average adult size (width), use the orange loom, and knit the new Comfy Footies! designed by Isela Phelps.

For quick reference, check out the Heel & Toe video. Work your sock while following along with the video.

…We hope you enjoy! Happy Knitting!

 

 

27 Comments

• Yunus August 18, 2017 at 4:15 pm

  Congrats on the new products. It says fine gauge, but doesn’t mention an actual number so what’s the p2p gauge on these sock looms?
• Laura Velez August 18, 2017 at 10:16 pm

  These beautiful new sock looms are listed as Fine Gauge. Does that mean the measurement is 5/16″?
• Amber August 19, 2017 at 1:23 pm

  Love the idea of the looms themselves. Hate the (hetero)sexist stereotype your marketing is feeding. Human beings really don’t have that much sexual dimorphism. In general, males and females share most of the size range. Many men need smaller, many women need larger. The ‘his and her’s’ is appealing to the vision of the big strong man and dainty little woman that ends up causing a lot of harm for all of the people, and couples, that don’t fit that. It is a slap at the woman who needs a larger sock with all the implied message that she is not feminine,, that she is coarse and masculine. While the man (or even boy) who has to use the ‘girl loom’… well, obviously I’m not going to repeat here the slurs about men and boys who are considered feminine.

  And those are just the basic binary issues. The second you look outside of those, it gets worse.

  I love that you are doing two sizes of looms. People come in enough sizes, I’d love even more.
  But I’d particularly love it if you didn’t define my gender and the gender of everyone I’m making socks for by the size of their feet
• Brenda Eastwoodk August 19, 2017 at 2:21 pm

  I have had eperiance this type of knitting. the tenches is very good.
• Pat August 19, 2017 at 3:15 pm

  Hi, You have brought up a good evaluation. Thank you for your thoughts, and we will remember this in the future. Thanks
• Pat August 19, 2017 at 3:17 pm

  Yes, that is correct. 5/16″ from peg2peg.
• Pat August 19, 2017 at 3:17 pm

  Hi, Thanks for asking. The looms are 5/16″ from center of peg to center of peg.
• Mrs Beverly August 19, 2017 at 4:28 pm

  i recently ordered these looms, always wanted to make socks,but found instructions to difficult to follow, now will try these and see what happens …

  happy sock making to me…
• Carol August 19, 2017 at 7:52 pm

  I love the new products! Thank you, as for me, I LOVE the his and her label! My husband was happy that he was going to get a pair of socks! Haha. I read about your company and I applaud you and your success. Keep up the good work! Thank you again : )
• Jonnita Stubbs August 19, 2017 at 8:55 pm

  I amiss very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.
• Jonnita Stubbs August 19, 2017 at 8:56 pm

  I am very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.
• Pat August 20, 2017 at 10:36 am

  Thanks Carol,we appreciate all feedback. So are you working on your husbands socks?
• Annette August 20, 2017 at 5:33 pm

  I’m looking forward to trying it out, I think having oval loom will help, even though I knot and crochet my socks I do love loom sock knitting
• Dusty R August 21, 2017 at 6:47 am

  I can’t wait to get these looms and think I will have to order today! I have all of the KB adjustable sock looms and like them well enough but these new ones sound so much easier to use, especially since they don’t need adjusting. I also have to say that I don’t have the same mindset as a previous poster and can’t say that those kind of thoughts ever entered my mind. My husband has small feet and would probably need one made on the “Hers” and I highly doubt that he will feel very feminine. People that I make things for aren’t going to care, or feel defined by, which loom I use. I love the “His and Her” name!
• Annette August 21, 2017 at 5:37 pm

  I have a question I saw online that 5/16 might be considered a SG = Small Gauge (5/16?,). So should I look for sock yarns that are “2” weight and not fingering weight 1? Maybe to use my sock stash combine 2 strands of weight 1 together. Or do I need baby weight or 3 light worsted or sport yarn for this loom? Sorry for so many questions. ….
  Well can’t wait to try it out already thinking of what yarns I may have. Thanks for any help.
• Necie August 22, 2017 at 6:25 am

  I love all the AKB looms! I look fw to getting these. I also love thinking of them as his and hers. It makes it easy for me quickly recognize which one I need to grab, especially when I am in a hurry. Keep up the good work!!!
• Terry August 22, 2017 at 8:32 pm

  I totally agree with Amber – I think you should have used large/medium/small.
• Annette August 23, 2017 at 9:59 am

  I got it today and started a sock. I LOVE IT!!! No more awkward end pegs so easy to use. Love the light weight of it to. It’s very easy to use on my hands. I have few different looms This is my favorite sock loom by far!! I????????????I may have to order second set so I can make two socks at a time. Thank you Pat for very fast shipping and coupon.
• Annettej August 23, 2017 at 10:01 am

  Oops my emojis went as question marks not happy faces
• Sally August 25, 2017 at 1:16 pm

  I have a question about one of the patterns for this loom. The Comfy Footies pattern. It says the cuff and leg should measure 7 inches. Is that correct for a footie sock?
  I love the feel of these looms and am anxious to try them out! Thanks for your help.
• Mary August 25, 2017 at 2:20 pm

  I just ordered my set and am looking forward to making socks! I ordered the Premium round loom set and the shipping was so quick! Love it! I have pretty much all of the other KB looms and I couldn’t be happier!! I think these new sock looms will be fun to take on little trips, so easy to tuck into a bag and go! Thanks KB looms!!!
• Pat August 25, 2017 at 5:04 pm

  Hi Sally, The designer feels that you are looking at a different pattern. There is no mention of 7″ for these footies. Please be sure you have downloaded the footies pattern. We will also check to be sure we have the links correct.
• Mary August 26, 2017 at 8:12 am

  Will all of your new looms eventually be available in stores? I have purchased all of your other knitting looms either at Hobby Lobby or Joanna craft stores.
• Pat August 26, 2017 at 9:13 am

  Hi Mary, It takes awhile for the store chains to order and receive and then get them into the planned stores. Just keep checking with your local stores, but realize that the chains choose which of their stores will receive each product. So some locations may have a product and another location may not. Also, large chains plan in advance, so it may take awhile.
• Jeannette Pirkle August 28, 2017 at 10:17 am

  With the double knitting, if connected as a hat, is it ‘trapped’ and limited to the 8 inch height? I’m thinking of the magic scarf type, you knit for say three feet in the round. I see if you double knit fkat it can come out and flow somehow but in the round, the legs limit flow-correct?
  I ordered mine so when it gets here I will experiment and enjoy all the new patterns.
  I love how it rotates.
• Pat August 30, 2017 at 7:24 pm

  Hi Jeannette,
  I agree that this is the first impression, but the hat scrunches and you can make it as deep as desired. There’s a lot of room for the round item as the space in the leg area is large. Once it is complete, you just slid it off the top of the loom.
• vivian land September 9, 2017 at 4:13 pm

  I have just about all your looms. love them all but use s loom most, and sock looms

Sunshine Shawl

I have always wanted a larger scale of the Inara Scarf and after many years, that dream has become a reality. Featuring the drop stitch with different lengths of elongated stitches, the shawl is perfect for those brisk morning or evening walks. The Sunshine Shawl has a diamond design worked with yarn overs on a background of garter stitch. The background of garter stitch makes the design pop even more. A yarn with wool (or natural fiber) content is recommended as the shawl needs to be blocked to show the stitches at its best!

Enjoy!

MATERIALS

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom (or any other of the KB looms with at least 99 pegs–can use the Afghan Loom, the 28″ Knitting Loom, or even (2) Hat Looms assembled together).

Yarn:  Approx 800 yds of worsted weight merino wool. Knit Picks Preciosa in Canary was used in sample; 3 skeins.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers/peg markers

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows=4 inches

Size: Approx 23 inches wide x 72 inches long

ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit Knit Stitch or Flat Stitch will work

P=purl

Yo=yarn over e-wrap the peg in a clockwise direction

Drp=Drop yarn over–Take the yarn overs off the peg

Sl=Slip stitch Skip the peg with yarn in back of work

Diamond Stitch Design

Use the instructions below when enlarging the pattern for a bigger item, such as a shawl.

Multiple of 6 + 1

Row 1: *k2, yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3, e-wrap peg 3 twice

Knit peg 4, e-wrap peg 4 twice

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last stitch

Row 2: p1, *p1, drp1, p1, drp2, p1, drp2, p1, drp1, p1, p2; rep from * to end of row

Purl peg 1

*Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 4

Purl peg 4

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 5

Purl peg 5

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Purl peg 7; rep from * to the end of row

Row 3: *k1, yo2, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo2; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1, e-wrap peg 1 twice

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3

Knit peg 4

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6, e-wrap peg 6 twice; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last

stitch

Row 4: p1, *drp2, p1, drop1, p3, drp1, p1, drp2, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Purl peg 1

*Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 2

Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Purl peg 4

Purl peg 5

Drop yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 7

Purl peg 7

Pattern Notes

Pattern is worked in a clockwise direction around the loom–You will be knitting a flat panel, the first row will be from right to left. Peg 1 will be at the far right and the last peg at the far left. The second row will start at the far left and end at the far right: Peg 1 will be at far left and the last peg at the far right.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 99 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

(Place peg marker on peg 1 and peg 99. Peg 1 and peg 99 are selvage stitches, the stitches in between are pattern repetitions, if you want to make a wider item, simply work more of these repetitions.)

Garter Stitch Edging

Row 1, 3, 5: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Row 2, 4, 6: Sl1, k to end

Row 7: Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 8: Sl1, p1, *p1, drp1yo, p1, drop2yo, p1, drp2yo, p1, drp1, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Row 9: Sl1, *k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 10: Sl1, p1, *drp2yo, p1, drp1yo, p3, drp1yo, p1, drp2yo, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 74 inches from cast on edge.

Rep Rows 1-6. 

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block to measurements to open up the design.

4 Comments

• Cynthia Newsam May 21, 2017 at 6:17 pm

  Will there be a video of this stitch? 🙂
• KB Designer May 21, 2017 at 6:53 pm

  As of right now, there are no plans for a video. The stitch breakdown is included and it is a fairly easy process.
• Raelyn Arnold June 19, 2017 at 2:59 pm

  What Cast On did you use? Is there one that will match the basic bind off? It’s absolutely a beautiful pattern! I can’t wait to make it!
• KB Designer June 30, 2017 at 10:01 pm

  It used the ewrap cast on and it was tightened after the item was completed.

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

• Ginny March 11, 2017 at 9:41 am

  I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
  Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
  Can you clarify this for me in some way?
• Ginny March 11, 2017 at 9:55 am

  Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
  Should there be a yo there?
• KB Designer March 11, 2017 at 3:09 pm

  Ginny, what number is this row?
• KB Designer March 11, 2017 at 3:14 pm

  Ginny,
  At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
  Row 1: k to end of row.
  Row 2: p to end of row.
  These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

  The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
  Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
  Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
  The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

  Hope the above helps.
• Ginny March 12, 2017 at 10:43 am

  The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
  Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?
• KB Designer March 12, 2017 at 12:18 pm

  No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

  Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.
• Ginny March 12, 2017 at 8:25 pm

  Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
  Now I feel ready to start
  The shawl is gorgeous
  I just hope I can make it
  Thanks for all the help
• Ginny March 16, 2017 at 7:12 am

  Sorry me again
  I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

  The explanation indicates
  Over 3 pegs
  Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
  Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
  Knit peg 3
  Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
  Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

  The pattern has
  Yo,CDD,yo
  Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
  Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

  Is there avideo on this or can there be one?
• Ginny March 21, 2017 at 8:53 pm

  How do you do a CDD?
• KB Designer March 21, 2017 at 9:35 pm

  Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.
• KB Designer March 21, 2017 at 9:44 pm

  I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

  This is the way I would do it:
  3 2 1

  Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
  Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
  Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
  Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

  You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

  Hope the above helps.
• Ginny March 22, 2017 at 12:59 pm

  Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
  I need clarification
  Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
  Or
  Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
  Or
  Does it mean something else?
  Thank you once again for your help
• KB Designer March 22, 2017 at 4:13 pm

  You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/
• Lisa Callahan March 29, 2017 at 7:18 am

  Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love
• Mary March 29, 2017 at 7:57 am

  What method of cast on do you use.
• Deb Follett April 3, 2017 at 5:56 am

  Hello,
  Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
  Any help is appreciated
• Dare April 3, 2017 at 12:18 pm

  This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:55 am

  The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:56 am

  Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:56 am

  Thank you!
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 9:00 am

  Hi Deb,

  The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.
• Deb Follett April 4, 2017 at 9:03 pm

  Thank you!
• Ginny April 6, 2017 at 9:42 am

  Thank you so much for the video Isela
  It makes things clearer for a newbie
  Much thanks
• Mary April 6, 2017 at 11:48 am

  I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

  Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

  Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

  I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

  Thanks! appreciate it.

Zippy Shawl & Shawlette

Open your wings and fly! Beautiful open stitches and winged tipped edges adorn the tips of this shawlette worked with a simple lace. Worked in garter stitch and short rows to provide width to the wingspan.

Knitting loom: Zippy loom (6 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawlette, (7 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawl).

Yarn: Approximately 120 yards of super bulky yarn for Zippy Shawlette (240 yards of super bulky yarn for the Zippy Shawl). Samples used Red Heart Boutique Twilight (2 skeins in Turquoise (4 skeins in Mercury) 59 yds/54m.

Notions: knitting tool, big eye tapestry needle.

Size: Zippy Shawlette: 40” wingspan by 16” to the tip.

Zippy Shawl: 70” wingspan by 28” to the tip.

Gauge: Zippy Shawlette: 5 sts x 8 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with the regular knit stitch).

Zippy Shawl: 4 sts x 5 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with ewrap knit stitch)

Pattern notes:

Connect the 6 (7 Zippy looms together) 24 (28 pegs).

Abbreviations

BBO: Basic bind off

CO: Cast on

EWK: Ewrap knit

k: knit stitch

p: purl stitch

sts:stitches

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)

 

Zippy Shawlette

Time: Approximately 2.5-3  hours; each wedge takes approximately 10-15 minutes. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 18 sts (from peg 18 to peg 1-left to right).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 18).

Row 2: k 4 (peg 18, 17, 16, 15), YO 1 (ewrap peg 15), k 12 (from peg 14 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

In other words: You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 19).

Row 4: k 4 (pegs 19, 18, 17, 16) YO1 (ewrap peg 16), k 11 (from peg 15 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 20).

Row 6: k 4 (pegs 20, 19, 18, 17) YO1 (ewrap peg 17), k 10 (from peg 16 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 21).

Row 8: k 4 (peg 21, 20, 19, 18) YO1 (ewrap peg 18), k 9 (from pegs 17 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 22).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 22, 21, 20, 19). 18 sts rem. K 18 (from peg 18 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

Zippy Shawl

Time: Approximately 4 hours. Each wedge takes approximately 20-25 minutes. 

The Zippy Shawl is worked similar to the Zippy Shawlette, except worked with the ewrap stitch to provide more length and width to the shawl as well as more open lace like stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 24 sts (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 24).

Row 2: EWK 4 (peg 24, 23, 22, 21), YO 1 (ewrap peg 21), EWK 18 (from peg 20 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 25).

Row 4: EWK 4 (pegs 25, 24, 23, 22) YO 1 (ewrap peg 22), EWK 17 (from peg 21 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 26).

Row 6: EWK 4 (pegs 26, 25, 24, 23) YO 1 (ewrap peg 23), EWK 16 (from peg 22 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 27).

Row 8: EWK 4 (peg 27, 26, 25, 24) YO 1 (ewrap peg 24), EWK 15 (from pegs 23 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 28).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 28, 27, 26, 25). 24 sts rem. EWK 24 (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

4 Comments

• Raelyn July 28, 2015 at 4:19 pm

  Which way do you cast on? Right to Left (Clockwise), or Left to Righ(Counter Clockwise)?
• Isabelle August 6, 2015 at 1:35 pm

  Is there any way you could do a video on the following section of the pattern, I don’ understand it, thanks so much,

  *Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

  With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
  With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
  Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
  Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
  Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
  Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
  Place the last loop on next empty peg.**
• Isela August 9, 2015 at 3:20 pm

  I’ll try to explain it in another way.

  You will need a stitch holder (a safety pin works) for this method. Let’s say you are doing the shawlette.

  Assume you are on the first section. You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

  Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

  Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

  Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

  Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

  Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

  Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.
• Isela August 9, 2015 at 3:22 pm

  Hi Raelyn,
  Cast on from left to right so that the first row is from Right to Left.