LOOM: ‘Premium’ Chunky Round Looms (48 Pegs)
YARN: #6 Super Bulky weight yarn
MC: Approx. 100 yds
CC: Approx. 50 yds
Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in colors Barley and Oatmeal used in sample.
NOTIONS: knitting hook, tapestry needle,
GAUGE: 5 sts and 8 rows = 2”
SIZE: Adult
ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch
inc=increase
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRFlrrRVK1k)
ew=e-wrap
MC=main color
CC=contrast color
st(s)=stitch(es)
Rnd(s)=Round(s)
Rep=repeat
NOTES:
This pattern is created by first working the two earflaps on either side of the loom. Without removing the earflaps, the pattern is then worked like a regular hat.
Colorwork on knitting looms often has a tight tension. Thus, for a better fit, ensure that tension remains loose throughout the colorwork sections.
Mark pegs (1-48) on the loom for ease in following this pattern.
In the earflap sections, the pegs within the parentheses indicate the pegs that should have working stitches on them at the end of the row.
INSTRUCTIONS
Earflap 1
Using MC, cast on three sts on pegs 8, 9, and 10.
Row 1: k3 (pegs 8-10)
Row 2: k3 (pegs 10-8)
Row 3: k3, inc1 (pegs 8-11)
Row 4: k4 (pegs 11-8)
Row 5: k4 (pegs 8-11)
Row 6: inc1, k4 (pegs 12-8)
Row 7: k5 (pegs 8-12)
Row 8: k5 (pegs 12-8)
Row 9: inc1, k5 (pegs 7-12)
Row 10: k6 (pegs 12-7)
Row 11: k6 (pegs 7-12)
Row 12: inc1, k6 (pegs 13-7)
Row 13: k7 (pegs 7-13)
Row 14: k7 (pegs 13-7)
Row 15: k7, inc1 (pegs 7-14)
Row 16: k8, (pegs 14-7)
Row 17: k8 (pegs 7-14)
Row 18: k8, inc1 (pegs 14-6)
Row 19: k9 (pegs 6-14)
Row 20: k9 (pegs 14-6)
Row 21: k9, inc1 (pegs 6-15)
Row 22: inc1, k10 (pegs 16-6)
Row 23: k11 (pegs 6-16)
Leave working stitches on the loom and cut yarn leaving about 6 inches. The earflap will remain on the loom as your work the second earflap.
Ear flap 2
Using MC, cast on three sts on pegs 39, 40, and 41.
Row 1: k3 (pegs 39-41)
Row 2: k3 (pegs 41-39)
Row 3: inc1, k3 (pegs 38-41)
Row 4: k4 (pegs 41-38)
Row 5: k4 (pegs 38-41)
Row 6: k4, inc1 (pegs 41-37)
Row 7: k5 (pegs 37-41)
Row 8: k5 (pegs 41-37)
Row 9: k5, inc1 (pegs 37-42)
Row 10: k6 (peg 42-37)
Row 11: k6 (pegs 37-42)
Row 12: k6, inc1 (pegs 42-36)
Row 13: k7 (pegs 36-42)
Row 14: k7 (pegs 42-36)
Row 15: inc1, k7 (pegs 35-42)
Row 16: k8, (pegs 42-35)
Row 17: k8 (pegs 35-42)
Row 18: inc1, k8 (pegs 43-35)
Row 19: k9 (pegs 35-43)
Row 20: k9 (pegs 43-35)
Row 21: inc1, k9 (pegs 34-43)
Row 22: k10, inc1 (pegs 43-33)
Row 23: k11 (pegs 33-43)
Leave working stitches on the loom and cut yarn leaving about 6 inches. The second earflap will also remain on the loom. The next section will attach the earflaps to the main section of the hat.
Main Section
Rnd 1: Starting on peg 1 and using MC, ew5 (pegs 1-5), k11 (pegs 6-16), ew16 (pegs 17-32), k11 (pegs 33-43), ew5 (pegs 44-48)
The earflaps should now be connected to the main section of the hat.
Rnds 2-3: Using MC, k across rnds
Rnd 4: *In CC k1, in MC k2, in CC k3, in MC k2, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 5: *In MC k2, in CC k1, in MC k3, in CC k1, in MC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 6: *In MC k1, in CC k1, in MC k2, in CC k1, in MC k2, in CC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 7: * In MC k1, in CC k1, in MC k1, in CC k3, in MC k1, in CC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 8: Rep rnd 6
Rnd 9: Rep rnd 5
Rnd 10: Rep rnd 4
Rnds 11-12: In MC k across rnds
Rnds 13-14: In CC k across rnds
Rnd 15: *In MC k1, in CC k2, rep from * across rnd
Rnds 16-17: In MC k across rnds
Rnd 18: Rep rnd 15
Rnds 19-20: Rep rnds 13-14
Rnd 21: In MC k across rnd
Rnd 22: *In CC k5, in MC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 23: *In CC k1, in MC k3, in CC k1, in MC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 24: *In CC k2, in MC k1, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 25: *In MC k1, in CC k1, in MC k1, in CC k1, in MC k2, rep from * across rnd
Rnd 26: *In CC k2, in MC k1, in CC k3, rep from * across rnd
Rnds 27-37 (or until desired length): In MC k across rnds
Bind off and weave in ends. (Be sure to sew in tightly the loose ends from the earflaps.)
Single crochet around border (brim/earflaps) for a more polished look [optional].
Make tassels on earflaps by pulling multiple strands of yarn (approximately 3 feet in length—1.5 ft on each side of ear flap) through each of the first three stitches in the earflap. Braid the three pieces to the desired length. Tie off with small piece of yarn and trim edges.
Attach pom pom if desired.
CHART
Loom knit a beautiful shawl using the All-n-One knitting loom. The gorgeous and sumptuous yarn has you reaching for new colors to bring to life the colors at the beach.
LOOM: All-n-One Loom with 5-peg slider. Need a total of 98 pegs.
YARN: Approx 820 yds of worsted weight, 100% Superwash Merino Wool. Knit Picks Twill, 149 yds | 100 grams, was used in the sample. Colorways: Dungaree (1 skein), Overcast (3 skeins), Horchata Heather (1). Red Heart Chic Sheep Yarn in colorway Lace (1 skein).
NOTIONS: tapestry needle, row counter (optional).
SIZE: Approx 20″ wide by 52″ long after steam blocking
ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch p=purl stitch
st(s)=stitch(es) rep=repeat
k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting
ssk=knit two stitches together left slanting
yo=yarn over
YARN COLOR ABBREVIATIONS
B=Horchata Heather
W=Lace
S=Overcast
N=Dungaree
SUGGESTION: Familiarize with the lace-stitch pattern section, rows 29-32, before beginning the project.
With B, cast on 98 sts, prepare to work a flat panel and ensure the first row will go from Right to Left direction (clockwise around the loom)
Row 1-12: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 13: k to end of row.
Row 14: p to end of row.
Join W; do not cut B.
Row 15: using W, k to end of row.
Row 16: using W, p to end of row.
Row 17: using B, k to end of row.
Row 18: using B, p to end of row.
Row 19: using W, k to end of row.
Row 20: using W, p to end of row.
Join S; cut B leaving a 6-inch yarn tail.
Row 21: using S, k to end of row.
Row 22: using S, p to end of row.
Row 23: using W, k to end of row.
Row 24: using W, p to end of row.
Row 25: using S, k to end of row.
Row 26: using S, p to end of row.
Row 27: using W, k to end of row.
Row 28: using W, p to end of row.
Cut W leaving a 6-inch yarn tail.
The lace section that follows will be done completely using S.
Row 29: k to end of row.
Row 30: p4, k90, p4.
Row 31: k4, *[k2tog] 3 times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [ssk] 3 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 32: p to end of row.
Repeat Rows 29-32: 29 more times.
Join N; do not cut S.
Next row: using N, k to end of row.
Next row: using N, p to end of row.
Next row: using S, k to end of row.
Next row: using S, p to end of row.
Repeat last 4 rows: 12 more times.
Next row: using N, k to end of row.
Next row: using N, p to end of row.
Cut N leaving a 6-inch yarn tail.
Next row: k to end of row.
Next row: p4, k90, p4.
Next row: k4, *[k2tog] 3 times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [ssk] 3 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Next row: p to end of row.
Repeat last 4 rows: 29 more times.
Next row: k to end of row.
Next row: p4, k90, p4.
Join W.
Next row: using W, k to end of row.
Next row: using W, p to end of row.
Next row: using S, k to end of row.
Next row: using S, p to end of row.
Next row: using W, k to end of row.
Next row: using W, p to end of row.
Next row: using S, k to end of row.
Next row: using S, p to end of row.
Join B; cut S leaving a 6-inch yarn tail end.
Next row: using W, k to end of row.
Next row: using W, p to end of row.
Next row: using B, k to end of row.
Next row: using B, p to end of row.
Next row: using W, k to end of row.
Next row: using W, p to end of row.
Cut W leaving a 6-inch yarn tail end.
Next row: using B, k to end of row.
Next row: using B, p to end of row.
Next 12 rows: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Bind off with Basic Bind Off method in pattern.
Weave in all yarn tail ends. Steam block or wet block to open up the lace stitches.·
Move stitches as follows:
Step 1: From peg 1 to 2; from peg 3 to 4; from peg 5 to 6; 13 to 14; 15 to 16; and 17 to 18.
Step 2: Knit peg 2; move this loop to peg 1.
Step 3: Knit peg 4; move this loop to peg 2.
Step 4: Knit peg 6; move this loop to peg 3.
Step 5: Ewrap peg 4.
Step 6: knit peg 7 and move the loop to peg 5.
Step 7: Ewrap peg 6.
Step 8: knit peg 8 and move the loop to peg 6.
Step 9: Ewrap peg.
Step 10: knit peg 9.
Step 11: Move both loops from peg 16 to peg 17; move both loops from peg 14 to peg 16.
Step 12: Move loops from pegs 12 to 15; from peg 11 to peg 13; from peg 10 peg 11.
Step 13: Ewrap peg 10, knit peg 11.
Step 14: Ewrap peg 12, knit peg 13.
Step 15: Ewrap peg 14, knit peg 15.
Step 16: Knit pegs 16, 17, and 18 (treating both loops on each peg as one loop.
Gently tug on the yarn adjusting the stitches.
This is a quick, fun beanie using #5 bulky yarn in 2 contrasting colors. The vertical design stripes are created by the chunky braid weave.
Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom (52 pegs)
Yarn: Fair Isle Nantucket Yarn 75% Acrylic/ 25% super wash wool, 131 yds per skein. Hand wash/air dry
Color 1=Apricot (1 skein), and Color 2=Light Gray (1 skein)
Stitches: Open Braid, Stockinette, Rib stitch
Notions Needed: Knit hook, crochet hook, darning needle
Size: Adult, One size (21”-22” head circumference)
ABBREVIATIONS:
rnd(rnds)=round(s)
st(sts)=stitch(s),
A=Apricot yarn
G=Gray yarn
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on with Stockinette stitch in A yarn. Lay anchor yarn of any chunky accent yarn (will be removed).
Rnds 1-2: Work rib stitch in the round. This is worked by weaving from peg 1 (beginning peg) to peg 3 on opposite loom.
Rnds 3-4: Change to G yarn and work in rib st.
Rnds 5-6: Change to A yarn and work in rib st.
Rnd 7: Change to G yarn and work in rib st. (one rnd only)
Cut G yarn and add A yarn with simple loop knot and place on beginning peg. Weave in open braid stitch. Gray yarn tail can be tied to A yarn.
Shift to chunky braid pattern.
Work one rnd in A yarn. Shift every other loop (outer loom only) onto peg to right. Start this shift with peg to left of beginning peg. Once you have moved ‘every other’ peg around loom, you will have 2 loops on ‘every other’ peg, and an empty peg in between (outer loom only).
Weave again and wrap only the pegs with loops and leave the empty pegs empty. Maintain the braid (1 to 4) weave. The inner loom will have 2 loops on each peg. The outer loom will have 4 loops on every other peg.
Hook over one over one on inner loom. Hook 2 loops over 2 loops on outer loom. Now, you are ready to weave next round.
Rnds 8-32: Work with A yarn in chunky braid.
When you are at end of the skein of A yarn, tie on G yarn and complete hat with G yarn. Cut remainder of A yarn. It will not be used.
Rnds 33-38: Work in G yarn in chunky open braid or until the full hat measures approximately 8.5”-9”.
If you want a deeper hat for larger head size, work more rnds to desired depth.
Bind off: Cut yarn with 16” of yarn remaining.
Move the loops on inner loom to create loops on every other peg to match the pegs on outer loom.
Then move the 2 loops on each inner loom peg to outer loom.
You will have no yarn on inner loom and 4 loops on every other peg on outer loom.
Place the working yarn on darning needle. Pick up the 4 loops on the pegs from beginning peg,
and continue from R to L around the loom until all loops are secure on the working yarn.
Be sure to get all the strands of yarn from the pegs.
Remove the hat from the loom.
Carefully gather the loops together to close in the top of hat. The top of hat will result in a circle of Gray for a cute top accent.
Sew a few securing stitches on inside of hat and knot the working yarn. Weave into the knit and trim yarn tails.
Complete the hat with a basic bind off at anchor yarn. This will be working
with crochet hook and pulling one loop thru the next one loop.
Once complete, connect the first and last loop for a nice invisible finish.
Weave in any extra yarn tails from the change of colors.
I have a question about this pattern (Chunky Open Braid Beanie)….
In the section “SHIFT TO CHUNKY BRAID PATTERN” it states to work one round in A yarn.
Are we to work one round using the STOCKINETTE STITCH or the RIB STITCH?
Please confirm, thank you
I have a question about this pattern (Chunky Open Braid Beanie)….
In the section “SHIFT TO CHUNKY BRAID PATTERN,” it states to work one round in A yarn.
Are we to work one round using the STOCKINETTE STITCH or the RIB STITCH?
Please confirm, thank you
LOOM: Baby-Knit Looms, 24 peg purple loom used.
YARN: 60″ of 26 gauge jewelry wire/beading wire.
NOTIONS: knit hook, 13 jump rings, 12 glass beads, 2 earring hooks, necklace chain, needle nose pliers.
GAUGE: not important
FINISHED SIZE: pendant measures 1.5″ long x 1″ wide
STITCHES
Ewk= ewrap knit stitch
Mk1= make 1 stitch (wrap and turn back)
NOTES
Pattern is worked single knit, as a flat panel.
There will be an increase made at the beginning of every row until there are five stitches casted on.
Be sure to loom slow. Since you are working with metal it will not have the give that yarn has.
INSTRUCTIONS
(Make 3)
Using 20″ of jewelry wire
begin by creating an eyelet by wrapping the wire 3x around the widest part of the pliers.
Cast on 1 stitch using the double ewrap cast on
Row 1: mk1, ewk1
Row 2: mk1, ewk2
Row 3: mk1, ewk3
Row 4: mk1, ewk4
There are now five stitches cast on.
Row 5: ewk5
Gently take the stitches off the loom making sure that you do not undo the last row of stitches you created.
Using four of the jump rings secure the last row of stitches. Add the glass beads onto the jump ring before closing.
Once the jump rings are secure, gently tug on the finished edge in a downward motion to set the stitches. Some shaping will be needed.
To finish, attach the pendants to the jewelry findings.
Never thought this could be done on a loom!!!
That’s amazing!
LOOM: KB Baby-Knit Looms, 56 and 24 peg.
YARN: Lion Brand Feels Like Butta yarn, #4.Color: Ice Glacé, 100% Polyester, 1 skein.
NOTIONS: Knitting hook, tapestry needle
GAUGE: 5 sts and 8 rows =1”
SIZE: Hat and booties (0-3 months)
INSTRUCTIONS
Hat
Cast on all 56 pegs with ewrap stitch.
Round 1: knit to end of round.
Round 2: purl to end of the round.
Repeat these two rows until you have 3.5 inches
Next Round: knit round.
Repeat round until hat measures 7 inches from cast on edge.
Bind Off loom with gather bind off method.
Weave in ends
Booties (knit 2)
Using the purple loom, cast on all 24 pegs using the ewrap stitch.
Round 1: knit to end.
Round 2: purl to end.
Repeat round 1 and 2, 8 times.
Next round: knit to end.
Repeat round, 4 more times.
Next round: Create eyelets for the ties.
*knit 2 pegs. place next stitch on the peg to the left, bring working yarn across the front of the empty peg to knit those 2 stitches together* repeat from * to * for entire round.
Make sure to knit the yarn overs across the empty pegs.
Next 6 rounds: knit to end.
Heel
Work heel in short-rows over the first 12 stitches. Place a peg marker on peg 1 and peg 12.
Knit from 1-11. W&T 12. Knit from 11-2. W&T 1.
Knit from 2 -10. W&T 11. Knit from 10-3. W&T 2.
Knit from 3-9. W&T 10. Knit from 9-4. W&T 3.
Knit from 4-8. W&T 9. Knit from 8-5. W&T 4.
(Note: The following increase rows will require working all previous wraps and stitches together as one. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)
Knit from 5-9. W&T 10.
Knit from 9-4. W&T 3.
Knit from 4-10. W&T 11.
Knit from 10-3. W&T 2.
Knit from 3-11. W&T 12.
Knit from 11-2. W&T 1.
Pegs 1 and 12 have two wraps and the stitch. On the first round of the sole and foot, work the pegs with the extra wraps together with the stitch.
Foot
Next 4 rounds: purl to end.
Next 2 rounds: knit to end.
Next 4 rounds: purl to end.
Toe
Repeat same process used for Heel.
Bind off with kitchener stitch.
Ties (make 2)
With crochet hook chain 82 stitches. Weave in ends, thread through eyelets and tie in a bow.
Designed by Isela Phelps
LOOM: Baby-Knit Looms
YARN: Approx 160 yds of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Red Heart Chic yarn, 1 skein (less than 1 skein used) in Suite used in sample.
NOTIONS: tapestry needle, row counter (optional), stitch markers (4).
GAUGE: 11 sts and 16 rows = 2”
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 56 sts, prepare to work in the round.
Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 9: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p to end.
Rnd 10: TW, p1, ew1, p1, TW, p1, ew1, p1, TW, k to end.
Rnd 11: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p to end.
Rnd 12: k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, p1, ew1, p1, k2, k to end.
Rep Rnds 9-12: until hat measures approximately 5.5 inches from cast on edge.
Next 2 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Remove the item with Modified Gather Bind Off
Modified Gather Bind Off Instructions
Cut 2 pieces of yarn that are approximately 24 inches long.
Thread tapestry needle with one of the pieces of yarn. Remove all the purl stitches onto the piece of yarn.
Thread the second piece of yarn and remove all the knit stitches from the loom.
Locate the first piece of yarn and cinch the purl stitches tightly close.
Locate the second piece of scrap yarn and cinch it all the knit stitches.
Tightly weave all tail ends to the wrong side of the hat.
NOTES: Heel and Toe use the German Short-row method.
INSTRUCTIONS
Leg
Cast on 24 sts, prepare to work in the round.
Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 9-13: k to end of rnd.
Heel—follow Heel Instructions
Sole and Instep
Next 14 rnds: k to end of rnd.
Toe—follow same instructions as for Heel
Bind off with Kitchener Stitch.
https://www.knittingboard.com/kitchener-stitch-page/
Weave ends in.
German Short-Row Instructions (24-peg loom—heel over 12 pegs).
How-to short row: knit the peg, bring the working yarn from the back to the front of the peg, gently tug on the yarn and bring it to the adjacent peg to knit.
Row 1: Knit from peg 1 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 12.
Row 2: Knit from peg 11 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 1.
Row 3: Knit from peg 2 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.
Row 4: Knit from peg 10 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 2.
Row 5: Knit from peg 3 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.
Row 6: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.
Row 7: Knit from peg 4 to peg 9. Short-row on peg 9.
Row 8: Knit from peg 9 to peg 4. Short-row on peg 4.
Row 9: Knit from peg 5 to peg 10. Short-row on peg 10.
Row 10: Knit from peg 9 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 3.
Row 11: Knit from peg 4 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 11.
Row 12: Knit from peg 10 to peg 3. Short-row on peg 2.
Row 13: Knit from peg 3 to peg 11. Short-row on peg 12.
Row 14: Knit from peg 11 to peg 2. Short-row on peg 1.
Row 15: Knit from peg 2 to peg 12. Short-row on peg 13.
Row 16: Knit from peg 12 to peg 1. Short-row on peg 24.
You will have the short-row on pegs 13 and 24. When working this round on the next round, treat the stitches as normal.
Thank you for a fantastic video but is there any chance of losing the music as at times it’s harder to hear what’s being said…
Thank you
Designed by Renita Harvey
Get ready to knit the entire family custom-sized gloves!
These basic gloves have full fingers that are worked for the length desired.
Detailed written instructions with pictures as well as a video tutorial will help even the beginner loom knitter that is adventurous to be able to create a work of art to keep their hands warm.
Great small project to work on in the summer months so grab the All-n-One Loom with 2 sets of sliders for the size needed and get started on a project like no other!
Loom: 18″ All-n-One Loom with 2 sets of 2 peg sliders for sizes Small and Medium, and 2 sets of 1 peg sliders for sizes Child and Large
Yarn: 125-246 yds Worsted/4 weight yarn. Lion Brand Yarn Jeans and Jeans Colors, 1 ball per pair, Colors Jumpsuit, Bermuda Shorts, Capri, and Top Stitch used in Samples
Notions: loom tool, stitch markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle, US size 6/4.00mm double point needles
Gauge: 10 sts x 16 rows = 2”
Sizes: Child, Small – Teens/Ladies Small, Medium – Ladies Average, Large – Ladies Large/Men’s Small
ABBREVIATIONS
K – Knit Note: E-wrap knit is not recommended for this project. True knit is the recommended knit stitch. U-wrap or flat knit may be used if needed to achieve gauge.
P – Purl
YO – Yarn Over
CO – Cast On
BO – Bind Off
SSK – Slip Slip Knit
K2tog – Knit 2 Together
C – Child
S – Small
M – Medium
L – Large
TECHNIQUES
SSK
Left slanting decrease.
Worked over 2 stitches with stitch 1 on the right and stitch 2 on left,move the stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit both together as one.
K2tog
Right slanting decrease.
Worked over 2 stitches with stitch 1 on the right and stitch 2 on the left, move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Knit both together as one.
Gathered Cast On
Place slip knot on neighboring peg.
Round 1: Working from right to left, wrap peg 1, skip peg 2 with working yarn to the back of the peg, and continue wrapping the odd number pegs and skipping the even number pegs around until back to peg 1.
Round 2: Knit pegs that have been wrapped and bring working yarn to the front of the pegs that were skipped until all pegs have been worked.
Cast on complete and ready for row 1. After working several rows, remove slip knot and gather the cast on edge.
INSTRUCTIONS
Make 2.
Instructions are written for size Small with the other sizes in parentheses. Small (Child, Medium, Large)
Note: Pictures are showing size Small being worked. Peg counts and sliders used may differ for other sizes.
Use the peg sliders as follows for the size being worked:
Child – 1 peg sliders
Small – 2 peg sliders
Medium – 2 peg sliders
Large – 1 peg sliders
Row Chart for Fingers
Pinky Finger
Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the pinky finger with 10 (8, 12, 14) pegs.
CO with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.
Work number of rows for the length of the pinky finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.
Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.
Place stitches from the inside slider on stitch holders. For size L, also place the stitches next to the inside slider on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 3)
Ring Finger
Take the slider on the inside of the loom off. Turn it around so the groove is facing the pinky finger and place it back on. Add the 3rd slider.
Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the ring finger with 10 (8, 12, 14) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M. Do not skip a peg on size L.
CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.
Work number of rows for the length of the ring finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.
Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.
Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders. For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 3) on each end of the ring finger. 1 peg remains empty between the pinky and ring fingers on both sides on all sizes now.
Middle Finger
Take the slider on the inside of the loom off. Remove the slider that is between the pinky and ring fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out. Tighten the nut again. Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the ring finger and place it back on. Add the 3rd slider.
Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the middle finger with 12 (10, 14, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M. Do not skip a peg on size L.
CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.
Work number of rows for the length of the middle finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.
Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.
Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders. For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 3) on each end of the middle finger. 1 peg remains empty between the ring and middle fingers on each side on all sizes now.
Pointer Finger
Take the slider on the inside of the loom off. Remove the slider that is between the ring and middle fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out. Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the middle finger and place it back on. Add the 3rd slider.
Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the pointer finger with 10 (10, 12, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M. Do not skip a peg on size L.
CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.
Work number of rows for the length of the pointer finger from the Row Chart for Fingers.
Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.
Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders for all sizes. For size L, also place the stitches next to the slider by the middle finger on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 1) on the end of the loom by the pointer finger and 2 (1, 2, 3) between the pointer and middle fingers. 1 peg remains empty between the middle and pointer fingers on both sides on all sizes now.
Take the slider on the inside of the loom off. Remove the slider that is between the middle and pointer fingers by loosening the nut on the end bolt and gently pulling the rails apart enough to slip the slider out.
Replace the end slider and place the stitches on stitch holders on the end back on the slider.
Hand Between Base of Fingers and Thumb
Place stitch marker for peg 1 on pinky finger as shown at the end of the loom. Join working yarn and prepare to work in the round.
Next 12 (10, 14, 15) rounds work all knits. YO empty pegs on the 1st round and knit those on round 2. 36 (36, 44, 46) stitches total.
Place stitches from insider slider on stitch holders. For size L, also place the stitches next to the both sliders on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 1, ) on the end by the pointer finger.
Do not cut working yarn.
Thumb
Turn the second peg slider around so the groove is facing the pointer finger and place it back on. Add the 3rd slider.
Set up the loom with the peg sliders for the thumb with 12 (10, 14, 16) pegs leaving 1 empty peg on each side between fingers for sizes C, S, and M. Do not skip a peg on size L.
Using the yarn end from the other end of the ball, CO the pegs set up with the gathered method and prepare to work in the round.
Tip: Start on the other side of the loom so the ending yarn tail will be between the thumb and pointer finger to use for seaming.
Work number of rows for the length of the thumb from the Row Chart for Fingers.
Cut working yarn leaving an 8” tail for seaming.
Place stitches from both sliders on stitch holders for all sizes. For size L on the side next to the pointer finger, also place the stitches next to the both slider on stitch holders as well. Number of stitches on stitch holders: 2 (1, 2, 1) on the outside of the thumb and 2 (1, 2, 3) between thumb and pointer finger. 1 peg remains empty between the thumb and pointer finger on all sizes now.
Take the slider on the inside of the loom off. Remove the slider that is between the pointer finger and thumb.
Replace the end slider and place the stitches on stitch holders on the end back on the slider pegs.
Bottom of Hand Below Thumb
Pick up working yarn from peg 1 on pinky finger.
Next 3 (2, 4, 5) rounds work all knits. YO empty pegs on the 1st round and knit those on round 2. 46 (46, 56, 58) stitches total.
Note: sizes are written individually from here to cuff. Please use the appropriate instructions for the size being made.
Child Size
Begin decreasing on thumb end. Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.
R1: K20, SSK, K1, K2tog, K21
R2: K all
R3: K19, SSK, K1, K2tog, K20
R4: K all
R5: K18, SSK, K1, K2tog, K19 – 40 stitches total
R6: K all
Begin decreasing on both ends. Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.
R7: K2tog, K15, SSK, K1, K2tog, K15, SSK, K1
R8: K all
R9: K2tog, K13, SSK, K1, K2tog, K13, SSK, K1
R10: K all
R11: K2tog, K11, SSK, K1, K2tog, K11, SSK, K1 – 28 stitches total
R12: K all
Proceed to Cuff
Small Size
Begin decreasing on thumb end. Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.
R1: K19, SSK, K2, K2tog, K21
R2: K all
R3: K18, SSK, K2, K2tog, K20
R4: K all
R5: K17, SSK, K2, K2tog, K 19 – 40 stitches total
R6-10: K all
Begin decreasing on both ends. Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.
R11: K2tog, K15, SSK, K2, K2tog, K15, SSK, K2
R12: K all
R13: K2tog, K12, SSK, K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2 – 32 stitches total
R14: K all
Proceed to Cuff
Medium Size
Begin decreasing on thumb end. Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.
R1: K24, SSK, K2, K2tog, K26
R2: K all
R3: K23, SSK, K2, K2tog, K25
R4: K all
R5: K22, SSK, K2, K2tog, K24
R6: K all
R7: K21, SSK, K2, K2tog, K23
R8: K all
R9: K20, SSK, K2, K2tog, K23
R10: K all
R11: K19, SSK, K2, K2tog, K21 – 44 stitches total
R12: K all
Begin decreasing on both ends. Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.
R13: K2tog, K16, SSK, K2, K2tog, K16, SSK
R14: K all
R15: K2tog, K14, SSK, K2, K2tog, K14, SSK – 36 stitches total
R16: K all
Proceed to Cuff
Large Size
Begin decreasing on thumb end. Move the slider on the decrease end inward with each decrease row.
R1: K26, SSK, K1, K2tog, K27
R2: K all
R3: K25, SSK, K1, K2tog, K26
R4: K all
R5: K24, SSK, K1, K2tog, K25
R6: K all
R7: K23, SSK, K1, K2tog, K24
R8: K all
R9: K22, SSK, K1, K2tog, K23 – 48 stitches total
R10-14: K all
Begin decreasing on both ends. Move both sliders inward with each decrease row.
R11: K2tog, K19, SSK, K1, K2tog, K19, SSK, K1
R12: K all
R13: K2tog, K17, SSK, K1, K2tog, K17, SSK, K1 – 40 stitches total
R14: K all
Proceed to Cuff
Cuff
Next 10 (8, 12, 14, 16) rounds, *K2, P2, rep from * to end
BO off with the ribbing method.
Ribbing Bind Off
Wrap working yarn 3x around the pegs with the work.
Cut working yarn and thread on a tapestry needle.
Tip: Keep yarn tail pulled tight while working bind off.
Run needle DOWN through the stitch on peg 1.
Run needle UP through the stitch on the last peg (to the right).
Bring yarn tail behind peg 1, run needle DOWN through the stitch on peg 2.
Run needle UP through the stitch on peg 1.
Proceed to peg 3 and continue with running the needle DOWN through the stitch that hasn’t been worked and then back UP through the stitch to the right that was previously worked until all stitches have been worked.
Finish by running needle back UP through peg 1.
Take glove off the loom.
Finishing
Work Kitchener Stitch to join the stitches left on the stitch holders between the fingers.
Note: While the holes between the fingers may be simply sewn closed, the combination of the Kitchener and Mattress Stitches is recommended for a cleaner seam.
*Place the live stitches on stitch holders between the Pinky and Ring Fingers on the double point needles.
Hold work with the side with the yarn tail that was left for seaming toward the back.
Run the first double point needle through the first stitch on the right from right to left from the back of the stitch to the front.
Continue to run the double point needle from right to left from the back of the stitch to the front until all stitches on the back are loaded on the needle. Number of stitches will range from 1 on child size to 3 stitches on the large size.
Run the second double point needle through the first stitch on the right from right to left from the front of the stitch to the back.
Continue to run the double point needle from right to left from the front of the stitch to the back until all stitches on the front are loaded on the needle. Number of stitches will range from 1 on child size to 3 stitches on the large size.
Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail.
**Run tapestry needle through first stitch on front needle from right to left as shown. Leave stitch on double point needle.
Run tapestry needle through first stitch on back needle from left to right as shown. Leave stitch on double point needle.
Run tapestry needle through the front stitch from left to right. Remove the stitch from the double point needle.
Run tapestry needle through the next front stitch from right to left. Leave stitch on double point needle.
Run tapestry needle through the stitch from right to left. Remove the stitch from the double point needle.
Run tapestry needle through the next back stitch from left to right. Leave stitch on double point needle.
Continue from ** until all stitches have been removed from the double point needles.
Stitches are joined with yarn tail on the left side.
Now to seam each side of the Kitchener join with the Mattress stitch.
***Run tapestry needle through the bottom stitch on the right side of the opening.
Run the tapestry needle under the leg between the stitches on the left side.
Run the tapestry needle back through the same place the needle was drawn through before and back up between the stitches.
Run the tapestry needle through the top of the stitch on the left side.
Repeat on the right side as before.
Run the working yarn back to the inside down between the line of stitches to finish closing.
Repeat from *** on the other side of the Kitchener join.
Repeat from * between each finger until all are seamed.
Weave in ends.
Can I use the 28″ loom okay to make these gloves as I have one of these, then I just need the sliders?
Designed by Pat Novak
A hat for any season with 2.5” wide brim. Optional flower or a button may be added for accent. Top of hat is worked in single knit on one loom for shaped top.
Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, with 52 pegs
Yarn: Lion Brand New Basic, 75% Acrylic/25% Wool, Machine wash, lay flat to dry.
175 yds per skein. (1) skein Grass, (¼) skein Olive, accent yarn for flower (any yarn), New yarn of stronger cord of similar color (36”).
Notions: Loom, knit hook, crochet hook, (6-8) plastic/metal pins for sewing, darning needle
Stitches: Open chunky Rib, Stockinette in double knit, and ewrap in single knit
Size: Fits adult with 22”-23” head circumference (above ears)
Hat is knit in 2 pieces: main hat, and added brim which is sewn on.
Abbreviations used: aprox=approximately, rnd(s)=round(s)
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on in double knit with Olive yarn using stockinette cast on. Lay anchor yarn of thick strong yarn.
Change to Open Rib set up. (outer loom, move every other loop (L to R) to adjacent peg so that there is an empty peg between the pegs with yarn. Continue to wrap only the pegs with loops on next circular. Lift 2 over 2 on each hook over. On inner loom, you will have 2 loops on each peg; lift 1 over 1 on the hook over.
Rnds 1-4: Work in Open Rib Stitch. (chunky rib)
Move one loop from pegs with 2 loops back to empty pegs (R to L) on outer loom. You will now have one loop on every peg on both looms. Cut yarn with 3” tail and tie on Grass yarn for remainder of hat.
Rnds 5-19: Work in Stockinette stitch. The hat should be aprox 4.5”-5″ including the hat band.
Top of Hat
Change to single knit for top of hat.
Move all inner loops to corresponding pegs on outer loom. You will have 2 loops on all pegs on outer loom and the inner loom will be empty. Remove the inner loom and legs.
Work hook over, one over one, so that there is only one loop on each peg on outer loom.
Decrease 1: Think of pegs in groups of 4. Decrease peg one onto peg two, by moving first loop onto peg two. Count 3 more pegs for that group. Move next peg over for decrease and skip 3 pegs. Decrease next peg. Skip 3. Once you have worked around loom with this decrease, you will have one peg empty, one peg with 2 loops, and 2 pegs with one loop, for each group of 4 pegs.
Group of 4 pegs: one empty, one with 2 loops, 2 pegs with one loop. Wrap again for one empty, one with 3 wraps, 2 with 2 wraps. Continue with all pegs. Ready to hook over. Lift 2 over 1 and 1 over 1. Leave all empty pegs empty.
Rnds 20-25: Work these 5 rounds in ewrap and skip the empty pegs. Work the peg with 2 loops by lifting both loops over new loop. This will be 1.5”.
Decrease 2: Move the 2nd loop in each group to next (last peg in group of 4) so that you have one loop on every other peg.
Rnds 26-32: Work these 7 rnds in ewrap, skipping the empty pegs.
To close top of hat, cut working yarn with aprox 15” and place the yarn tail onto darning needle. Pick up all loops and place them on the working yarn. You can go around the pegs a 2nd time so that the gather is very strong. Remove the hat from the loom and carefully pull yarn to gather the remaining stitches. Work the gathering process so that the top of hat is completely closed in. Take the yarn to inside of hat and work some securing stitches. Weave in ends of yarn and trim ends.
Bind off at anchor yarn with crochet hook, using 2 loop method. Set hat aside until the brim is ready to attach.
Brim
Add the inner loom into base of loom. Brim will be worked in double knit in one long piece. Remember that the outer edge of the brim will be longer than the edge that is attached to hat, so you want to knit it long enough for the outer edge. We knit aprox 36” for the brim piece. This will be aprox 180 rows of knit, or 35″-36″. Then the inner edge will be gathered to fit circumference of hat.
Cast on 9 stitches in stockinette stitch. Use more if a wider brim is desired. Add anchor yarn.
Work in stockinette until brim is desired length. It needs to be aprox 10” longer than the base of hat where it will be attached. Once complete, bind off at both short edges.
Gather one edge of brim so that it is desired length to fit around base of hat. You will want to gather the long edge of the brim piece with a New yarn. It needs to be strong and twisted yarn of similar color to hat yarn. Have New yarn about 25” long. You may choose to leave it in the hat or remove it, just depends on colors. Our sample was sewn with a black cord but does not show, so we left it in the hat.
Put yarn onto the darning needle and pick up each stitch on one long side of brim. Gently pull it in as you go so you can control the ending length. Once you have it all on the New yarn, measure it to the hat for fit. If it fits the hat, tie the 2 ends of New yarn together and work the gather so that it is even all around and fits the size of hat band.
Sew the 2 short end of the brim together with hat yarn.
Fit the brim to edge of hat and secure in place with plastic or metal pins. Be sure the joined short edges are placed at back of hat.
Once you have the edges together evenly, you can turn the edges to inside and sew together with matching yarn color and darning needle. You can use part of the New yarn (stronger cord). Try to grab only the edge stitches of both pieces for an invisible seam. Knot the yarn when complete and weave in all yarn ends.
Working from inside of hat, sew brim to edge of hat grabbing only the edge stitches. Once secure, remove pins and sew the short edges of brim together at back of hat. Be sure to sew the brim to hat by stretching the 2 pieces together so the seam is smooth and not too tight. Trim all yarn tails and weave into knit.
Inside of hat after sewing.
Flower or Adornment
This adornment can be a knit or crocheted flower. Knit a square 6 stitches X 8 rows wide, gather both edges with yarn tails to form a circular piece. Then create a center with accent yarn of 5-6 loops. Sew onto the brim.
We have prepared a list of handy projects that you can knit for Father’s Day. There is still time to knit your loved one something great! Grab a loom and get knitting!
Tie: using the KB Sock Loom 2
Slippers: using the KB All-n-One Loom
Golf Club Covers: using the KB All-n-One Loom
Cable Hat & Scarf: using the KB Hat Loom or All-n-One Loom
Socks: using the KB Sock Loom 2
Zippy Twisted Rope Scarf: using the Zippy Looms
Is there a video anywhere for the Zippy Twisted Rope Scarf?
LOOM: Sock Loom 2
YARN: Approx 100 grams/3.5oz of worsted weight yarn. Sample used Red Heart Chic Sheep 100 grams/3.5oz;186yds/170m; colorways Suite (blue sample) and Polo (green sample).
NOTIONS: Tapestry needle, row counter (optional), stitch markers (optional), double pointed needles to hold the stitches for closing the toe
GAUGE: 9.5 sts x 15 rows= 2″ in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS
K=knit stitch (not the ewrap)
P=purl stitch
St(s)=stitch(es)
Rnd(s)=round(s)
k2tog=knit two stitches together, a right slanting decrease
ssk=slip, slip, knit two stitches together, a left slanting decrease
yo=yarn over
NOTES: Two sizes are provided, children (adult women). When only one set of instructions is provided, use for both sizes. Sample shows 2 sizes: children and adult women size 7.5
INSTRUCTIONS
Set the Sock Loom 2 to 32 (40 pegs).
Leg
Cast on 32 (40) sts, prepare to work in the rnd.
Rnds 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 9: *k2tog, yo, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 10: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 11: *yo, ssk, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13: *k2tog, yo, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 14: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 15: *yo, ssk, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 16-26: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 9-26.
Heel
Follow instructions for desired size sock.
Sole and Instep
Continue working in the rnd in stockinette stitch (knit every stitch) until the sock measures 2 inches less than the desired length.
Toe
Follow instructions for Heel
Closing the toe
Keeping all sts from twisting, place the first 16 (20) sts onto a double pointed needle. Place the remaining 16 (20) sts onto another double pointed needle.
BO all sts using the Kitchener Stitch, as seen in the following tutorial: http://www.knittingboard.com/kitchener-stitch-page/
Weave all ends in. Block to set the stitches.
est ce possible d avoir les patrons en Français, svp merci
: Bellerose sock :
Thank you so much! On disability and I also need videos, etc. This will help so much. I get yarn at Goodwill when I can. I can make gifts for my mom and until, for church as Christmas. I have a porpuse in life kinda. Thank you so much. Nora any donations would be great. LoL. Doesn’t hurt to ask.
Designed by Amanda Pratt
LOOM: His and Her sock Loom Set, purple loom
YARN: Paton’s Kroy Sock Yarn, 2 colors. 250 yds total. Sock weight #1.
NOTIONS: tapestry needle, row counter (optional), stitch markers (optional)
GAUGE: Approximately 14 sts x 21 rows = 2” in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS
K= Flat or U stitch
p=purl
W&T = Wrap peg, and turn to knit in opposite direction. Also referred to as “Skip WYIF”
FC=Foreground color, green (color for: toe, heel, skulls, and top of cuff)
CC=contrasting color, brown
NOTES: Pattern is worked toe-up. Work will begin at the toes and move up to the cuff.
How to Mark Loom
Mark pegs to facilitate chart/graph reading: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 these pegs will remain background color during the skull chart on the cuff.
Suggest to swatch before starting project.
To swatch for an item in the round, it is recommended to swatch in the round. Work up a swatch that is approximately 4 inches long. Wet block (lay flat to dry). Measure gauge after swatch is completely dry.
Kitchener Cast On
https://youtu.be/tvmPk_s_nmg
INSTRUCTIONS
Using FG color, cast on using the kitchener cast on method (shown in video) on all the pegs.
To do the kitchener cast on you wrap tail of yarn around loom or use a slip knot on end peg. from there wrap working yarn around the FRONT of each peg going back and forth to create the zig-zag the area you will later tighten up for a seamless toe.
Toe
The toe is worked from peg 1-33. The 1st part of the toe is the decrease.
The decrease it done by lifting the stitch off the peg it is on and placing the working yarn behind the peg around to the front. Put the stitch back on the peg. this is abbreviated ¨W&T… ¨ the number is the peg number itself. For this project the decrease is always at the end of the row.
Adjust the width of the toe and heel by decreasing more or less for a proper fit. This pattern will decrease 11 on each side for the toe.
Decrease
https://youtu.be/vruYjz-m_co
Row 1 : K 1-32, W&T 33
Row 2 : K 32-2, W&T 1
Row 3 : K 2-31, W&T 32
Row 4 : K 31-3, W&T 2
Row 5 : K 3-30, W&T 31
Row 6 : K 30-4, W&T 3
Row 7 : K 4-29, W&T 30
Row 8: K 29-5, W&T 4
Row 9: K 5-28, W&T 29
Row 10: K 28-6, W&T 5
Row 11: K 6-27, W&T 28
Row 12: K 27-7, W&T 6
Row 13: K 7-26, W&T 27
Row 14: K 26-8, W&T 7
Row 15: K 8-25, W&T 26
Row 16: K 25-9, W&T 8
Row 17: K 9-24, W&T 25
Row 18:K 24-10, W&T 9
Row 19: K 10-23, W&T 24
Row 20: K 23-11, W&T 10
Row 21: K 11-22, W&T 23
Row 19: K 22-12, W&T 11
Increase
https://youtu.be/_Anz961p_t8
Row 17: K 12-23
Row 18: K 22-11
Row 19: K 12-24
Row 20: K 23-10
Row 21: K 11-25
Row 22: K 24-9
Row 23: K 10-26
Row 24: K 25-8
Row 25: K 9-27
Row 26: K 26-7
Row 27: K 8-28
Row 28: K 27-6
Row 29: K 7-29
Row 30: K 28-5
Row 31: K 6-30
Row 32: K 29-4
Row 33: K 5-31
Row 34: K 30-3
Row 35: K 4-32
Row 36: K 31-2
Row 37: K 3-33
Row 38: K 32-1
FOOT
https://youtu.be/UUQVr-DOFAw
The body is worked using the Flat (F) stitch.
HEEL
https://youtu.be/07PEUBjQfpM
change to foreground color.
The heel is done the same as the toe, except heel is worked from peg 63-35; the increase and decrease are 12-pegs each side.
Change to the background color “B” Brown
Row 1-10: K
Add in foreground color “G” Green
SKULL CHART
Reading a chart: https://youtu.be/XAjsVzscXWY
Row 1: B3, G3, B10
Row 2: B2, G3, B10
Row 3: B3, G3, B4, G1, B3, G1, B1
Row 4: B1, G3, B1, G3, B1, G2, B3, G2
Row 5: B1, G7, B3, G1, B1, G1, B2
Row 6: B1, G1, B2, G1, B2, G1, B4, G1, B3
Row 7: B1, G1, B1, G3, B1, G1, B3, G1, B1, G1, B2
Row 8: B1, G7, B1, G2, B3, G2
Row 9: B2, G5, B3, G1, B3, G1, B1
Row 10: B3, G3, B10
Row 11: B11, G3, B2
Row 12: B10, G1, B3, G1, B1
Row 13: B2, G1, B3, G1, B4, G3, B2
Row 14: B1, G2, B3, G2, B1, G3, B1, G3
Row 15: B3, G1, B1, G1, B3, G7
Row 16: B4, G1, B4, G1, B2 G1, B2, G1
Row 17: B3, G1, B1, G1, B3, G1, B1, G3, B1, G1
Row 18: B1, G2, B3, G2, B1, G7
Row 19: B2, G1, B3, G1, B3, G5, B1
Row 20: B11, G3, B2
repeat row 1-20 as many times as desired.
CUFF
https://youtu.be/NSjDXbOPD-g
Row 1-5: K Brown
Row 6: K – Green
Row 7-20: K2, P2 Brown
Basic Bind Off
Video: https://youtu.be/mCdQU5rkfPI
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.
How to Finish Cast On Edge: https://youtu.be/NO4caZh1SM4
Full Video: https://youtu.be/zhuz3c25ImQ
What size sock are you making?
It is gorgeous
In the video it says these can also be done on the original sock loom, what adjustments need to be made since the original is rectangular instead of oval. Especially for the kitchener cast on.
Designed by Denice Johnson
LOOM: Afghan Loom
YARN: Vanna’s Choice in Aquamarine (5 skeins) 170 yards. Vanna’s Choice in Pale Grey (5 skeins) 170 yards
NOTIONS: knit hook, sewing needle.
GAUGE: 22 stitches and 48 rows = 7
FINISHED SIZE: 42″ x 50″
STITCHES: Ewk= ewrap knit stitch, P= purl stitch, Sk1= skip 1 stitch
Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs, then repeated for row.
-ewrap and knit over peg 1
-ewrap and knit over peg 2
-move the stitch from peg 2 and place
above the stitch on peg 1
-knit the bottom stitch over top stitch
-place working yarn in front of peg 2
NOTES
-Pattern is worked single knit, worked as a flat panel.
-The blanket will have two wavy edges, it will not be a perfect rectangle.
-Skip the first stitch of every row to create a nice even edge.
INSTRUCTIONS
In Aquamarine color, cast on 197 pegs using ewrap cast on.
Row 1: sk1, purl row
Row 2: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 1&2 for a total of 7 rows, end on purl row.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 8: sk1, work lace stitch(97 x), end on ewk2
Row 9: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 8 & 9 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 16: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 17: sk1, purl row
Work rows 16&17 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 24: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 25: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 24&25 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 32: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 33: sk1, purl row
Work rows 32&33 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 40: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 41: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 40&41 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 48: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 49: sk1, purl row
Work rows 48&49 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 56: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 57: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 56 & 57 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 64: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 65: sk1, purl row
Work rows 64 & 65 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 72: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 73: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 72 & 73 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 80: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 81: sk1, purl row
Work rows 80 & 81 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 88: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 89: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 88 & 89 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 96: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 97: sk1, purl row
Work rows 96 & 97 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 104: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 105: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 104&105 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 112: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 113: sk1, purl row
Work rows 112 & 113 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 120: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 121: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 120 & 121 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 128: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 129: sk1, purl row
Work rows 128 & 129 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 136: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 137: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 136 & 137 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 144: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 145: sk1, purl row
Work rows 144 & 145 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 152: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 153: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 152 & 153 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 160: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 161: sk1, purl row
Work rows 160 & 161 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 168: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 169: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 168 & 169 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 176: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 177: sk1, purl row
Work rows 176&177 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 184: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 185: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 184 & 185 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 192: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 193: sk1, purl row
Work rows 192 & 193 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 200: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 201: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 200 & 201 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 208: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 209: sk1, purl row
Work rows 208 & 209 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 216: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 217: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 216 & 217 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 224: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 225: sk1, purl row
Work rows 224&225 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 232: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 233: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 232 & 233 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 240: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 241: sk1, purl row
Work rows 240 & 241 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.
Row 248: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2
Row 249: sk1, ewrap knit row
Work rows 248 & 249 for a total of 8 rows.
Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.
Row 256: sk1, ewrap knit row
Row 257: sk1, purl row
Work rows 256 & 257 for a total of 8 rows.
Bind off using basic bind off method, weave in all yarn ends.
Gently tug on blanket to set the stitches.
The Aqua Stripe Blanket pattern is one I have been waiting for ever since I received the message from KB Looms and it was pictured as being made on the KB afghan loom. It really is such a unique look, so full of texture. Thank you Denice for sharing it. Can you explain in a bit more detail as to what you mean by a “wavy edge” and just what two edges, top and bottom? Also, “not a perfect rectangle”? Thank you, wish to make it for a gift and wonder just how the edges will look.
Beautiful design, Denise! I love everything about it!
This is so lovely — am wondering if I can use this on my KB all in one ?
Oh! This is so pretty I want to start it and have my yarn and KB Loom all ready. But, in reading over the pattern can you explain in more detail ” Tie on” I notice this s when I am to change a color……do I just tie a knot to add the new color on and when at the beginning of the row it says to skip the first stitch, do I tie on the new yarn and then bring strand on yarn to back of first peg and continue on? Will the knot show on wrong side of afghan? Thank you for help Denice and the pattern!
Hi! I would like to make 0-3m socks or booties and I just bought “The Original fine gauge Sock Loom”. I am a bit of a beginner and the instructions are confusing to me as far as how i measure the foot and how I decide how many pegs to use. If someone could help me Id appreciate it!!
Thank you!!
I am working on this pattern.
I am not understanding how the blanket waves on one side.
I am on row 16 but the pattern ends on the same pegs at the row every row???
Am I not doing something right???
Designed by Jenny Stark
Visualize a pond filled with gorgeous, purple water lilies. Consider how the roots are firmly planted down in the mud at the bottom of the pond where they find stability and nourishment. Sense the cool waters, cleansing and sustaining the plant. Finally, reflect on the pristine beauty of the blossom that floats above everything – a symbol of purity, renewal, and grace. May the lovely colors of these yarns and the beauty of this lace pattern bring the same calming, lifting feelings to your mind as you create it and then wear it or share it.
LOOM: KB Sock Loom 2
YARN: 2 skeins Red Heart Soft in Guacamole and 1 skein Red Heart Soft in Watercolors. Yarn weight = medium/4. 100% acrylic.
NOTIONS: Knitting Tool, Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Tape Measure, Cable Needle
SIZE: Fits adults
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
INSTRUCTIONS
Using the Guacamole color, working from left to right, cast on 36 stitches.
Rows 1, 3 & 5: Knit all stitches.
Rows 2, 4 & 6: Purl all stitches.
Row 7: *Knit peg. Wrap same peg 3 times. Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: Peg 1- begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.
Drop top 3 wraps from peg. Finish purl stitch.
*Next 6 pegs – drop the top 3 wraps from each peg. Each peg will have a stitch on it and a long loop behind it.
Carefully place the stitches from pegs 6, 5, and 4 on the cable needle.
Drop the cable needle to the center of the loom temporarily. Move the stitch from peg 3 to peg 6, the stitch from peg 2 to peg 5, and the stitch from peg 1 to peg 4.
From the cable needle – move stitch 4 to peg 1, stitch 5 to peg 2, and stitch 6 to peg 3.
Purl pegs 1-6. Rep from * until the last peg. Last peg – begin purl in bottom stitch on peg. Drop top 3 wraps from peg. Finish purl stitch.
Using the Watercolors color, repeat rows 1-8.
Alternate colors and repeat rows 1-8 until panel reaches desired length. End with the Guacamole yarn. Continuing with the Guacamole color, repeat rows 1-6 once more.
Remove the panel from the loom using the basic bind off method. Weave in all yarn ends. Lightly steam the scarf to relax the lace sections.
Such a lovely design, Jenny! It reminds me of a Monet painting.
Looks like this will be a very complicated pattern. I will Try it (I THINK) when I get brave enough. I’m basically a newbe knitter and not that good at it.. It really is a beautiful scarf.
Valerie
Designed by Ace Beorchia
With farmer’s market season right around the corner, now is the perfect time to make a Farmer’s Market Bag! The stitches in this pattern create a very stretchy material perfect for small and larger items alike. This is a quick knit, and you’ll be showing off your farmer’s market goodies in no time!
Tag @ace_knits on Instagram to get your Farmer’s Market Bag featured!
LOOM: KB ‘Premium’ Chunky Round Loom Set, orange loom, 48 pegs
YARN: 51 grams (approx. 83 meters) of any 100% cotton yarn; Lily’s Sugar’n Cream in “Autumn Leaves Ombre” used in sample
NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle
LEVEL: Beginner/Early Intermediate
ABBREVIATIONS
Approx – Approximately
k – knit stitch (May substitute with u-stitch)
st(s) – stitch(es)
rnd(s) – round(s)
tk – triple knit (see instructions below)
‘Triple Knit’ Stitch Instructions
The triple knit stitch creates a lengthened stitch using one peg. To work the triple knit stitch, start by knitting the peg normally. However, rather than continuing to the next peg in the round, bring the yarn back in front of the same peg in the opposite direction (as if you were going to turn and go the opposite direction). Knit the peg again—creating the second knit on the same peg. Finally, on the same peg, turn the yarn in front of the peg in the opposite direction one last time. (The yarn should be in the same position as when you originally started the stitch.) Knit the peg one last time.
In simpler terms, knit the same stitch three times in a row—keeping the yarn in front of the peg on each knit.
INSTRUCTIONS
Skipping every other peg, cast on 24 sts and begin to work in the round. Throughout most of the pattern, only work on the live pegs (the 24 pegs from the cast on).
Rnd 1: k across entire row (24 sts)
Rnds 2-22: tk across entire row (24 sts)
Short-row Increases
Next, you will create short rows on the two sides of the bag where the handle will attach. To create the short rows, number your active pegs (1-24) and do the following:
Row 1: tk pegs 1 to 6; turn
Row 2: tk pegs 5 to 1; turn
Row 3: tk pegs 2 to 5; turn
Row 4: tk pegs 4 to 2; turn
Row 5: tk pegs 3 to 18; turn
Row 6: tk pegs 17 to 13; turn
Row 7: tk pegs 14 to 17; turn
Row 8: tk pegs 16 to 14; turn
Row 9: tk pegs 15 to 24; turn
Top of Bag
Now that the short rows are complete, use the following instructions to complete the top of the bag:
Rnd 1: k across (24 sts)
Rnd 2: e-wrap all 48 pegs. k previous 24 sts. Each peg should now have one wrap of yarn.
Rnd 3: k across entire row of 48 sts
Rnd 4: k across entire row of 48 sts
Bind off very loosely using the basic bind off method.
Strap
Cast on 8 sts.
Row 1: k across; turn
Repeat row 1 until strap is desired length. (Sample strap is 20 inches.)
Bind off using the basic bind off method.
The edges of the strap will naturally curve in, giving the straps an i-cord appearance.
Finishing
To finish the bag, first tighten the cast on row (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yUxTMi2Fv0 for an example).
Next, similar to finishing a hat, weave the loose end from the cast on through the 24 cast on stitches. Pull tightly to cinch closed the bottom of the bag.
Finally, using the mattress stitch, sew the handle to the bag at the top of the short row edges on both sides of the bag.
Weave in all ends.
Tip
Place something flat in the bottom of your bag to give it some width and structure.
two things
what kind of cast on do you use?
is this for single or double strands? using a single strand of 100% cotton yarn, it has broke on me 2 different times within a few rows of my cast on. thanks
Knit by Denice Johnson
A very simple pattern with continuous rib stitch throughout. Knit in double knit with 60 double pegs. Shawl is made light and airy with the Shawl in a Cake yarn by Lion brand.
LOOM: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom with 60 Peg Loom Toppers or 28″ Loom. Set up for double knit.
YARN: Lion Brand ‘Shawl in a Cake’, #4 worsted yarn. Cotton and Acrylic blend, machine wash and lay flat to dry. Color, Moonstone. 2 skeins. 950 yards.
NOTIONS: Knit hook, crochet hook, sewing needle.
GAUGE: 3 stitches & 4 rows to 1″
FINISHED SIZE: 19.5″ wide x 65″ long
STITCHES
Rib & Stockinette
NOTES
Pattern is worked double knit as a flat panel.
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 60 pegs in Stockinette. Lay anchor yarn in contrast color around loom to secure stitches.
Row 1: Rib Stitch
Repeat row one until 24″ of yarn remains. Approximately 264 rows.
Bind off loosely using crochet hook. Remove from loom. Bind off loosely at cast on edge using crochet hook. Carefully remove the anchor yarn. Weave in any yarn tails.
I’ve been wanting to make a shawl and this is perfect. Love it!
nice
I have been looking for a nice shawl pattern and this is perfect. Very pretty. Thank you!
The instructions sat the rib stitch, but I have seen the rib with k1, p1 or k1, p2 or k2,p2, etc. is this k1,p1 rib? Thanks!
LOOM: KB Baby-Knit Looms
YARN: Approx 120 yds of baby yarn. Sample knit with Bernat Softee Baby, Lavender.
NOTIONS: knit hook, darning needle
GAUGE: 11 sts and 16 rows = 2”
SIZE: Hat and booties recommended for 0-3 months. For hat 3-6 months, use ewrap knit stitch instead of knit stitch to create wider width.
Hat Pattern
Cast on 56 pegs, green loom, prepare to work in the round.
Round 1-5: Purl to end of round.
Round 6-12: Knit to end of round.
Round 13-15: Purl to end of round.
Round 16: Knit rounds until measures 6 inches from cast on edge.
Next 5 rounds: Purl to the end of round.
Next round: Purl round and knit 2 together, take the stitch from peg 1 and place it on peg 2. Purl these two stitches together. Take the stitch from peg 3 and place it on peg 4. Purl these two together. Continue in this manner, purling two stitches together all around loom.
Remove from loom: Cut yarn 12.5” long. Now with darning needle pull each stitch off loom. After all stitches are on needle, turn the hat wrong side out and pull the yarn tight, closing up top of hat. Weave in ends.
The cast on edge will be a little curly. Block flat.
Bootie Pattern
Cast on 24 stitches, purple loom, prepare to work in the round.
Round 1- 3: Purl to end of round.
Round 4-6: Knit to end of round.
Round 7-8: Purl to end of round.
Round 9-12: Knit to end of round.
Heel:
Work heel in short-rows over the first 12 stitches.
Place a peg marker on peg 1 and peg 12.
Knit from 1-11. W&T 12.
Knit from 11-2. W&T 1.
Knit from 2 -10. W&T 11.
Knit from 10-3. W&T 2.
Knit from 3-9. W&T 10.
Knit from 9-4. W&T 3.
Knit from 4-8. W&T 9.
Knit from 8-5. W&T 4.
(Note: The following increase rows will require working all previous wraps and stitches together as one as the pegs are knit and w&t’d. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)
Knit from 5-9. W&T 10.
Knit from 9-4. W&T 3.
Knit from 4- 10. W&T 11.
Knit from 10-3. W&T 2.
Knit from 3 -11. W&T 12.
Knit from 11-2. W&T 1.
Pegs 1 and 12 have two wraps and the stitch. On the first round of the sole and foot, work the pegs with the extra wraps together with the stitch.
Foot: Begin working in the round once again.
Next round: knit to the end of round (be sure to pick up the wraps from peg 1 and peg 12).
Next round: knit to end.
Rep last round until sole measures 3” from back of heel, or desired length.
Toe: Repeat exact same process used for heel.
Now, take stitches off loom with darning needle, and sew the seam together with kitchener stitch.
See Kitchener stitch
This is a sweet project. Thank you for listing the amount of yardage needed to complete the hat and booties. I wish all projects would list the yardage needed as not all brands of yarn are available everywhere. It would be nice to know the amount of yarn needed to improvise with another brand of yarn.
Thanks for the pattern. However, I am a huge visual learner. Reading the pattern does not work for me. I need to see it done to be able to do it.
Designed by Renita Harvey
This headband incorporates decorative elastic for added texture and design! Give a little extra love and warmth with hugs and kisses (“Xs” and “Os” ) and it’s also wide enough to cover ears.
Pattern includes full video tutorials for both the tradition method of loom knitting cables as well as peg sharing method.
LOOM: KB 32 Peg Loom, total 19 pegs used.
YARN: 75 yds of worsted/4 weight 80% acrylic /20% wool yarn. Lion Brand Wool-Ease in color Blush Heather used in sample.
NOTIONS: knitting tool, cable needle, tapestry needle, 1.5 yds ½” decorative fold over elastic, sewing thread, sewing needle
GAUGE: 19 sts x 16 rows = 2.66” in stitch pattern
SIZE: Adult
LEVEL: Intermediate/Advanced
ABBREVIATIONS
K – Knit stitch
P – Purl stitch
S – Slip (skip)
C4F – Cable 4 Front
C4B – Cable 4 Back
CO – Cast on
BO – Bind off
St(s) – Stitch(es)
R – row
Rem – Remain
Rep – Repeat
Approx – Approximately
SPECIAL STITCHES
C4F – Worked over 4 stitches: Skip sts on peg 1 and 2, knit pegs 3 and 4, place sts from pegs 3 and 4 on cable needle and hold to the back, knit pegs 1 and 2, place sts from peg 1 on peg 3 and st on peg 2 on peg 4, place sts held on cable needle on pegs 1 and 2
C4B – Worked over 4 stitches: Place sts on pegs 1 and 2 on cable needle and hold to the back, knit pegs 3 and 4, move st from peg 3 to peg 1 and st from 4 to peg 2, place sts held on cable needle on pegs 3 and 4, knit pegs 3 and 4
INSTRUCTIONS
CO 19 sts. Prepare to work a flat panel.
R1: *P1, K8, rep from * once, P1
R2: Rep R1
R3: P1, C4B, C4F, P1, C4F, C4B, P1
R4 – 6: Rep R1
R7: Rep R3
R8 – 10: Rep R1
R11: P1, C4F, C4B, P1 C4B, C4F, P1
R12 – 14: Rep R1
R15: Rep R11
R16: Rep 1
Rep R1 – 16, 8 times
BO
Cut working yarn leaving a yarn tail of approx. 8” to use for seaming.
Block.
ASSEMBLY
Bring the CO and BO edges together without twisting.
Using the long tail from the BO, seam the CO and BO edges together.
Weave in ends.
Cut 2 pieces of decorative elastic 20” long.
Weave the first length of elastic through the holes in the O’s on one side as shown.
Weave the second length of elastic through the other side in the same manner.
Making sure the elastic is not twisted, overlap the ends of one side of elastic by ¼” and sew using the sewing thread and sewing needle.
Repeat sewing the ends of the elastic on the other side.
VIDEO LINKS by Renita Harvey
I enjoy your patterns and I have a suggestion. I like the listing of yarns used in the sample but many of these aren’t available where I am able to shop. If there could be a note as to the total yardage needed it would be very helpful in substituting other brands of yarn. Thank you.
This is a great stitch for a chunky look, and is very easy to create even for a beginner. One side of knit is chunky rib, and the other side, regular stockinette.
Sample knit with Loops and Threads, Barcelona yarn, #4.
To begin, cast on all 52 pegs in stockinette. Then move (outer loom only) every other loop to next peg, so that one peg is empty and the next one has 2 loops. Do this all around the outer loom.
Weave in stockinette always wrapping the pegs with 2 loops on the outer loom, and on the inner loom, wrap all pegs. Be sure to keep the empty pegs empty.
This will create 3 loops on every other peg and the empty pegs stay empty. Work with loose tension.
Continue the round so that the pegs with 3 loops, now have 4 loops.
The outer loom will have 4 loops on ‘every other’ peg.
Hook over 2 loops over 2 loops on outer loom and 1 loop over 1 loop on the inner loom. Then repeat the process.
The inner loom will have just 2 loops. Hook 1 over 1.
To create the headband above, work a total of 14 rounds in open rib stitch. A thinner or wider band can be made, depending on how many rounds are worked and desired. Bind off with basic bind off with crochet hook.
See links for additional:
Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Alternate Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Mock Cable Stitch (dk in the round)
NOT a beginner project
I have both sizes of looms for the rotating loom and am wondering what other loom sizes or head sizes they fit. I can’t wear hats off the 36 peg loom. Prefer the 41, 48 or 60 peg looms, 1/2”.
It’s incredibly frustrating that there are only 4 patterns for the KB Afghan infinity loom. None are for beginners with no knitting background or experience. I’ve never knit before and the need for patterns using this loom via book, online or preferably a step by step video for very new beginners would be very much appreciated. Just one video instructional, pretty pretty please? (Begging) Can you recommend easy to learn patterns with instructions for this loom for beginners? I bought the loom, 12 rolls of yarn, but I’m at a loss. If I could easily learn just one project, I would take this loom with me everywhere and I’d probably wear it OUT! LOL. I’m a very visual person and the instructions that came with the loom were confusing for me, an extreme novice beginner. I’m anxious to start any project at all. Any recommendations would be very much appreciated. Thank you so much for reading this comment.
Learn the Mock CABLE Stitch!
New stitch for the Rotating Double Knit Loom!
Working double knit ‘in the round’ is worked slightly different than double knit on a straight loom. The straight loom is worked to one end, and then back. In the round, the loom is worked in one direction around the loom.
The weight of the yarn and the stitch will determine the size from 20-22”. Works great with #4 or #5 yarn. Sample knit with Red Heart Soft, Seafoam.
Rnd(s)=round(s) st(sts)=stitch(es)
NOTES: Each cable design is 4 stitches wide. Space between each design is 4 or 5 sts. For headband (in photo) total 16 rounds.
Mark each set of design pegs with markers or yarn on outer loom. Gold yarn marks the 4 peg cable stitches.
Work the cable design on the 4 stitch sections only. After twisting the loops, wrap all pegs with stockinette stitch and hook over.
Cast on in stockinette stitch.
Rnd 1: Stockinette stitch
Rnd 2: Twist loop 1 & 2 ( place loop from cable peg 1 onto cable peg 2. Place loop from cable peg 2 onto peg 1) and Twist loop 3 & 4 (place loop from cable peg 3 onto peg 4 and, then and place cable peg 4 onto peg 3, see photo). Push loops down and then wrap in stockinette and hook over.
Rnd 3: Stockinette all pegs
Rnd 4: Twist cable peg 2 & 3, (place loop from peg 3 onto peg 2, and loop from peg 2 onto cable peg 3). Wrap in stockinette and hook over.
Rnd 5: Stockinette all.
Repeat all rnds (2-5) 3 additional times. For headband above, knit a total of 16 rnds. Bind Off with basic bind off with crochet hook at loom, and at anchor yarn. Remove the anchor yarn and weave in all yarn tails.
See links for additional info and stitches:
Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Alternate Rib Stitch (dk in the round) Open Rib Stitch (dk in the round)
If you have a little one to take out into the cold, you’ll love this adorable sweater with ‘Chickie’ design.
LOOM: All-n-One Loom or 28″ Loom + extenders, 34 double stitches with 2cm spacing
STITCHES: Stockinette, Crisscross, and Rib
YARN: Super soft Baby Grande Alpaca by Plymouth Yarns, 110 yds per skein. #5 Bulky, Maroon (M) = 3 balls, Soft Green (G)=1 ball
NOTIONS: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook
SIZES: Toddler size: small (medium) Measurements are taken with sweater lying flat. All measurements are approximate.
Toddler Size, Small (Medium): Chest at underarm: 11” (13”) Hemline at hip: 10” (12”) Length neck to hem 11” (11”) Sleeve to wrist: 5” (6”)
GAUGE: 5 stitches X 6 rows=2 inches
Design of Sweater: Sleeves are raglan for comfort, front open neckline with drawstring.
This little sweater is easy to adjust since it is all knit in stockinette for the body and crisscross stitch for the hem and cuffs, and rib for the neckline.
INSTRUCTIONS
Sweater Front
Cast On 30 (34) stitches in (G) color yarn. Lay anchor yarn.
Rows 1-4: Crisscross stitch. This border could also be done in rib stitch.
Cut the yarn with 3” tail.
Tie on main color (M). Lay tails across stitches between rows of pegs.
Rows 5-8 (5-10): Stockinette
Rows 9-21 (11-23): Chickie design (12 rows)
Look at each row in chart starting with number 1 at bottom. Your center of garment is peg #15 (16). Tie in your accent (G) color on stitch # 14 between the rows of pegs. Wrap peg number 12 (13) from front to back, drag the yarn over to peg # 18 (19) and wrap front to back. Lay the accent yarn aside where you end with it. Now start the row by weaving the stockinette stitch with main color, only skipping the pegs covered with the accent yarn. This is how you will do each of the design rows following the scale.
Rows 22-27 (24-29): Stockinette
Neckline and sleeve shaping:
Mark the center of knitting with piece of yarn or pin.
The arm shaping will start now.
You will also start the neckline at center of sweater front.
Arm shaping:
*Row 1: Decrease (1) stitch each end of board. Work row.
*Row 2: Knit one regular row.
Do these 2 *rows a total of 6 (7) times.
At neckline, twist the (4) center stitches. (2) loops to right of center will be lifted and placed on the (2) pegs to left side of center. The (2) loops to left of center will be lifted and placed on the (2) pegs to right side of center. This will make the center very strong and a nice accent.
Work the 2 sides of front in 2 separate pieces.
Tie on another skein of yarn to the right side knitting at twisted stitches.
Work each side separately while doing the decrease for the sleeve shaping.
When you have completed the decrease rows ending with a regular row, you are ready to do the shoulders.
Shoulders: Bind Off 2 (3) stitches at beginning of left side, and same on end of right side. The remaining stitches are the neckline.
Neckline:
Rows 1-4: Rib stitch for each side of front.
Bind Off loosely. Pick up 2 loops, pull (1) thru (1). Pick up (1) additional loop, always alternating the boards. Do this to both sides of front of sweater. Bind Off loosely at anchor yarn for hemline of sweater front.
Back of Sweater:
Repeat all steps as front of sweater, only leave out the design and do not separate the neckline. Skip the neckline section, and the design section. Work directly to shoulders, after doing the arm shaping.
Sleeve: (knit 2)
Cast on 18 (22) stitches with accent color. Lay anchor yarn.
Rows 1-4: Crisscross Stitch or Rib stitch to match the sweater front and back.
Tie on main color (M).
*Row 1: Increase (1) stitch each end. Work row in stockinette stitch.
*Row 2: Knit (1) row in stockinette.
Repeat these (2)* rows for 3 (4) additional times.
Arm shaping:
Decrease (1) stitch each end of loom every row until (2) stitches remain.
Bind Off. Bind Off loosely at cuff.
Tie String:
With main color yarn and crochet hook, crochet a chain approximately 28” (30”) long. Knot at both ends several times to form a small ball that conceals the tails of yarn.
Sewing the pieces together:
Sew the side seams of sweater front and sweater back with invisible stitch.
Sew the shoulders and neckline with invisible stitch.
Sew each sleeve from cuff to arm shaping. Place each sleeve in sleeve openings, matching the underarm seams, and the center of sleeve to shoulder seam. Secure these two areas with a strand of yarn. Be sure you place the sleeve seam at underarm.
Work in the front of sweater with front of sleeve by sewing with invisible stitch.
Work in the back of sweater with back of sleeve by sewing with invisible stitch. Make extra stitches at underarm and shoulder to secure for active little toddlers.
Front finishing:
Use your crochet hook to weave the braided piece for a shoelace up the front opening. The center of the braid should be placed behind the twisted stitches. Lace the braid from side to side ending with ends at top of each side of opening.
Tuck in any yarn tails with crochet hook.
What is the finished length and width of this shawl ?
It would be nice to have a downloadable version of this.
Approx 20? wide by 52? long after steam blocking
You can highlight it all, and copy it to a Word document and print it like that or save it. Eventually, all the patterns move to the free section of the website, but they stay in the blog, exclusively, for a few months.