Aqua Stripe Blanket (42″ x 50″)

Designed by Denice Johnson

LOOM: Afghan Loom

YARN: Vanna’s Choice in Aquamarine (5 skeins) 170 yards. Vanna’s Choice in Pale Grey (5 skeins) 170 yards

NOTIONS: knit hook, sewing needle.

GAUGE: 22 stitches and 48 rows = 7

FINISHED SIZE: 42″ x 50″

STITCHES: Ewk= ewrap knit stitch, P= purl stitch, Sk1= skip 1 stitch

Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs, then repeated for row.
-ewrap and knit over peg 1
-ewrap and knit over peg 2
-move the stitch from peg 2 and place
above the stitch on peg 1
-knit the bottom stitch over top stitch
-place working yarn in front of peg 2

NOTES

-Pattern is worked single knit, worked as a flat panel.

-The blanket will have two wavy edges,  it will not be a perfect rectangle.

-Skip the first stitch of every row to create a nice even edge.

INSTRUCTIONS

In Aquamarine color, cast on 197 pegs using ewrap cast on.

Row 1: sk1, purl row

Row 2: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 1&2 for a total of 7 rows, end on purl row.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 8: sk1, work lace stitch(97 x), end on ewk2

Row 9: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 8 & 9 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 16: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 17: sk1, purl row

Work rows 16&17 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 24: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 25: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 24&25 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 32: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 33: sk1, purl row

Work rows 32&33 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 40: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 41: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 40&41 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 48: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 49: sk1, purl row

Work rows 48&49 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 56: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 57: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 56 & 57 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 64: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 65: sk1, purl row

Work rows 64 & 65 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 72: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 73: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 72 & 73 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 80: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 81: sk1, purl row

Work rows 80 & 81 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 88: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 89: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 88 & 89 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 96: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 97: sk1, purl row

Work rows 96 & 97 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 104: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 105: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 104&105 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 112: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 113: sk1, purl row

Work rows 112 & 113 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 120: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 121: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 120 & 121 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 128: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 129: sk1, purl row

Work rows 128 & 129 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 136: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 137: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 136 & 137 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 144: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 145: sk1, purl row

Work rows 144 & 145 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 152: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 153: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 152 & 153 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 160: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 161: sk1, purl row

Work rows 160 & 161 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 168: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 169: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 168 & 169 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 176: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 177: sk1, purl row

Work rows 176&177 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 184: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 185: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 184 & 185 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 192: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 193: sk1, purl row

Work rows 192 & 193 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 200: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 201: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 200 & 201 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 208: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 209: sk1, purl row

Work rows 208 & 209 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 216: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 217: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 216 & 217 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 224: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 225: sk1, purl row

Work rows 224&225 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 232: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 233: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 232 & 233 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 240: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 241: sk1, purl row

Work rows 240 & 241 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Aquamarine, tie on Pale Grey.

Row 248: sk1, work lace stitch(97x), end on ewk2

Row 249: sk1, ewrap knit row

Work rows 248 & 249 for a total of 8 rows.

Cut Pale Grey, tie on Aquamarine.

Row 256: sk1, ewrap knit row

Row 257: sk1, purl row

Work rows 256 & 257 for a total of 8 rows.

Bind off using basic bind off method, weave in all yarn ends.

Gently tug on blanket to set the stitches.

6 Comments

• Marilyn Gruber April 25, 2019 at 8:17 pm

  The Aqua Stripe Blanket pattern is one I have been waiting for ever since I received the message from KB Looms and it was pictured as being made on the KB afghan loom. It really is such a unique look, so full of texture. Thank you Denice for sharing it. Can you explain in a bit more detail as to what you mean by a “wavy edge” and just what two edges, top and bottom? Also, “not a perfect rectangle”? Thank you, wish to make it for a gift and wonder just how the edges will look.
• Brenda April 27, 2019 at 8:19 am

  Beautiful design, Denise! I love everything about it!
• Paula April 27, 2019 at 7:41 pm

  This is so lovely — am wondering if I can use this on my KB all in one ?
• Marilyn Gruber April 29, 2019 at 12:44 pm

  Oh! This is so pretty I want to start it and have my yarn and KB Loom all ready. But, in reading over the pattern can you explain in more detail ” Tie on” I notice this s when I am to change a color……do I just tie a knot to add the new color on and when at the beginning of the row it says to skip the first stitch, do I tie on the new yarn and then bring strand on yarn to back of first peg and continue on? Will the knot show on wrong side of afghan? Thank you for help Denice and the pattern!
• Lee May 3, 2019 at 8:25 am

  Hi! I would like to make 0-3m socks or booties and I just bought “The Original fine gauge Sock Loom”. I am a bit of a beginner and the instructions are confusing to me as far as how i measure the foot and how I decide how many pegs to use. If someone could help me Id appreciate it!!

  Thank you!!
• Melissa Kendall May 3, 2019 at 6:59 pm

  I am working on this pattern.
  I am not understanding how the blanket waves on one side.
  I am on row 16 but the pattern ends on the same pegs at the row every row???
  Am I not doing something right???

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New Earth Afghan (double knit)

As the earth begins its beautiful change of colors, we can enjoy the green shades with this cozy afghan.  Fun to knit in 3 shades of green and lots of stitch patterns.  Add fringe for a unique cozy look or, knit up some sofa pillows in each color.

Loom: 38″ Loom set at 1cm spacing for double knit using 82 stitches

Yarn:  Lion Brand New Basic, worsted weight, 75% wool & 25% acrylic.  Machine wash, gentle; lay flat to dry.  Colors used in sample are Lt Green 173 Thyme (T), Dark Green 174 Olive (O), Bright Green 172 Grass (G), (3) skeins of each.

Stitches:  Open Braid, Soft Braid, Zigzag, CrissCross, Stockinette.  Follow links to detailed instructions for each stitch.  Soft Braid is new and will be explained below*

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook, measure tape

Size:  30” wide X 50” long. (for larger blanket, use 2cm spacing between rails)

Gauge:  Stockinette stitch is 3 sts X 4 rows = 1 inch.

*Soft Braid Stitch:  Weave 2 row patterns.  This is similar to the Open Braid.

Row 1 starts on back rail on peg one down to peg four on front rail.  Weave at this angle around every other peg to end of rail.  Return the weave by covering all empty pegs.  Hook over.

Row 2 starts on back rail on peg one and down to peg 3 on front rail.  Weave at this angle around every other peg to end of rail.  Return the weave by covering all empty pegs.  Hook over.

Repeat these 2 rows for the Soft Braid stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 82 stitches in Stockinette with T yarn.

Work 10 rows in Soft Braid stitch.

Work 5 rows in Stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on O yarn at 2^nd peg to tail of T yarn.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Work 18 rows in Zigzag stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on G yarn at 2^nd peg to tail of O yarn.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Work 16 rows in CrissCross stitch.

Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on O yarn at 2^nd peg to tail of G yarn.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Work Open Braid stitch for 14 rows.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on T yarn at 2^nd peg to tail of O yarn.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Continue with Open Braid stitch for 14 rows.

Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on G yarn at 2^nd peg to tail of T yarn.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Work 14 rows in CrissCross stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on O yarn at 2^nd peg.  Lay both yarn tails between pegs.

Work 12 rows in Open Braid stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on T yarn.

Work 10 rows in Open Braid stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.  Cut yarn.

Tie on G yarn.

Work 12 rows in CrissCross stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette.  Cut yarn.

Tie on O yarn.

Work 18 rows in Zigzag stitch.

Work 6 rows in stockinette.  Cut yarn.

Tie on T yarn.

Work 14 rows in Soft Braid stitch.  Cut the yarn with 3” tail.  Ready to bind off of loom.

Bind off of loom with basic bind off using crochet hook.  Start at end opposite the yarn tail.  Pick up first stitch, both loops, from both rails.  Pull one thru the other.  One loop remains on the crochet hook.  Pick up one loop from next stitch, front rail and work the stitch.  Next, pick up back loom from same stitch, and work the stitch.  Continue across the loom working each loop alternating from back rail to front rail until only one loop remains on crochet hook.  Pick up the yarn tail and pull it thru the last loop to knot.  Then gently pull the yarn tail into the knit.  Your blanket is off the loom.

Bind off at anchor yarn in same way starting at end opposite the yarn tail.  Pick up 2 loops with crochet hook and work.  Pick up next single loop and work.  Continue across the knit until last loop remains on crochet hook.  Pull yarn tail thru loop for knot, and weave into knitting.

Check blanket to see if any yarn tails extend out, and weave them into knitting.

Lightly block blanket by laying on flat surface like a mattress and insert straight pins to secure.  Lightly mist and allow to dry.  Remove all pins.  Your new afghan is ready to grace your home or give as a Christmas gift.

8 Comments

• Donna Brown November 3, 2018 at 8:05 am

  Hello HELP, I have been working on a blanket for awhile now and have noticed the middle of my wooden knitting loom is appears to be warped in the middle. Is this normal is it due to tension and should I start over??
• Gin November 3, 2018 at 8:28 am

  Will there be a video?
  I looked at the instructions for the stitches but I can not seem to visualize it
  Thanks
• Karen Pellett November 15, 2018 at 10:07 am

  Question: I’ve made about 60 scarves since this past spring using various yarns. My stiches seem uniform, not tight, but after finishing the scarves, maybe within hours though usually days, the scarves shrink in length often to half the length. What do I need to do differently or is this normal?
• jesse November 15, 2018 at 5:01 pm

  just want a pdf of the instruction
• Pat November 19, 2018 at 8:08 pm

  Hi Donna,
  What is most important is how does your knitting look? Is it tighter in the center from the end edges? If all looks well, I would keep going and complete and try to weave a bit looser in the center area.
  This is not how the loom should look, and one of your rails could be slightly warped and bow inward. Please email me at pat@knittingboard.com after you have completed the blanket. We may be able to remedy the problem.
  Thanks, pat
• Pat November 20, 2018 at 11:26 am

  Hi Jesse,
  Please leave email at pat@knittingboard.com and I can send the file to you.
• Pat November 20, 2018 at 12:07 pm

  Hi Karen, You may want to try a thicker yarn or a tighter stitch that doesn’t stretch out so much. It sounds like your stitches are just open and bouncy. You can always knit the scarf longer than desired in the end as it may look longer while on the loom.
• Charles November 23, 2018 at 11:26 am

  The Soft Braid Stitch seems identical to the CrissCross stitch, unless I am missing their difference in their instructions.

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Squishy Soft Baby Blanket

LOOM:  136 peg knitting loom in small gauge. Recommend: 38” knitting loom with 2 peg extender, or 28” with peg extenders.

YARN:  Approx 820 yds of worsted weight yarn. Lion Brand LB Collection Cashmere Yarn was used in sample in color

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, and tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 16 sts and 22 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette.

SIZE: 32″ x 40″

As soon as I touched this yarn, I knew that I wanted to create something soft and beautiful for my little one to cherish. Our team members have nicknamed this yarn “squishy” as all you want to do is wrap yourself in its softness.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

cdd=centered double decrease. Over 3 pegs. Move loops to the sides to the center peg. Example: Peg 3-Peg 2- Peg 1, move loop from peg 1 to peg 2.  Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. When working the centered peg, treat all loops as one loop.

yo=yarn over

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 136 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to end of end.

Row 2: p to end of end.

Repeat last two rows, 9 more times (20 rows total).

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, k3, cdd, k3, yo; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 22: p3, k130, p3.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 24: p3, k130, p3.

Row 25: k3, *k3, yo, k1, cdd, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 26: p3, k130, p3.

Row 27: k3, *k4, yo, cdd, yo, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 28: p3, k130, p3.

Repeat Rows 1-28 until panel measures approximately 34 inches from cast on edge (about 10 total repeats of Rows 1-28), ending on a Row 28.

Repeat Rows 1-20.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block.

The lace stitch pattern used in this baby blanket, is the same one used for the Baby Buttercup Skirt shown in this video.

Isela Phelps, known in the loom knitting community as “Purling Sprite”. She is the author of the best-seller loom knitting series, Loom Knitting Primer.  She maintains a blog at purlingsprite.com

Have questions or comments for Isela? Feel free to leave a comment below!

7 Comments

• Susan August 14, 2018 at 5:22 pm

  I have tried 5 times to do this pattern and every single time my stitches are too tight. I have made the ultra loose but they still seem to be too tight. Any suggestions?
• Isela Phelps August 14, 2018 at 6:28 pm

  What yarn are you using? The yarn that was used in this pattern is a natural yarn so it has inherent elasticity. The sample knitted also knitted the stitches loosely. What knit stitch are you using? If you are using the flat stitch or u-stitch, try the true knit stitch instead.
• Alice Necaise August 17, 2018 at 11:58 am

  I would love to make this blanket for my great-grandson for his baptism.I am new to loom knitting but am a fast learner. Can I knit this on the Afghan loom?
• Isela Phelps August 17, 2018 at 12:00 pm

  Absolutely! The gauge may vary slightly, but you should be able to knit it on that loom.
• Iris Jusino August 24, 2018 at 5:11 am

  I would like to make this blanket what yarn can I substitute it with?
• Betty August 28, 2018 at 10:42 am

  Isela, This is a ? about the Autumn Slouch hat. The last instructions say repeat rows 13 and 14 which is 10 and 11 If I understand correctly, I now have 3 YO and the next round is
  K2tog. It seems like to get the 2 extra elongated stitches off the loom I am missing a knit or purl row ?

  Thanks for your help Betty
• Isela Phelps September 30, 2018 at 11:56 am

  Any other that has a nice drape to it, typically one with a natural fiber.

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Baby Blanket

LOOM: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, used as a single knitting, outside rail only.

YARN: Caron Simply Soft in Soft Pink 315 yds skein (2 skeins).

NOTIONS: tapestry needle, stitch holder.

GAUGE: 4 stitches and 6 rows to 1″ of pattern.

SIZE: 28″ x 34″

ABBREVIATIONS

Ew= ewrap knit stitch
P= purl stitch
K2tog= knit two together
Yo= yarn over

NOTES

Blanket is made by creating two panels and sewing them together at the inside seam.

Skip the first stitch of every row to create a nice even edge.

(k2tog, yo)
Lift the stitch on the left peg and hold,
move the stitch from the right peg and place on the left peg, take the stitch you are holding and place back on the left peg just above the stitch you just moved, ewrap the left peg and knit the two bottom stitches over treating them both as one, lay your working in front of the empty peg to create the yarn over.

(yo, k2tog)
Lift the stitch on the right peg and hold,
move the stitch from the left peg and place on the right peg, take the stitch you are holding and place back on the right peg just above the stitch you just moved, lay your working in front of
the empty peg to create to yarn over, ewrap the right peg and knit the two bottom stitches over treating them both as one.

INSTRUCTIONS

(Left Side)
Ewrap cast on 47 pegs (left to right) prepare to work as a flat panel.

Row 1: purl row

Row 2: ewrap knit row

Repeat rows 1&2 for 9 rows ending on a purl row.

Row 10: ewrap knit row

Row 11: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 12: ewrap knit row

Row 13: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 14: ewrap knit row

Row 15: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 16: ew3 (ew2, k2tog, yo, w3) end on ew1.

Row 17: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 18: ew3 (ew1, k2tog, yo, ew1, yo, k2tog, ew1) end on ew1.

Row 19: ew42, p3, ew1

Repeat rows 10-19 fourteen more times.

Row 160: ewrap knit row

Row 161: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 162: ewrap knit row

Row 163: ew42, p3, ew1

Row 164: ewrap knit row

Row 165: purl row

Row 166: ewrap knit row

Row 167: purl row

Row 168: ewrap knit row

Row 169: purl row

Row 170: ewrap knit row

Row 171: purl row

Row 172: ewrap knit row

Row 173: purl row

Bind off with basic bind-off method. Weave in ends.

(Right Side)
Ewrap cast on 47 pegs (left to right) prepare to work as a flat panel.

Row 1: purl row

Row 2: ewrap knit row

Repeat rows 1&2 for 9 rows ending on a purl row.

Row 10: ewrap knit row

Row 11: p3, ew43

Row 12: ewrap knit row

Row 13: p3, ew43

Row 14: ewrap knit row

Row 15: p3, ew43

Row 16: (ew2, k2tog, yo, ew3) end on ew4

Row 17: p3, ew43

Row 18: (ew1, k2tog, yo, ew1, yo, k2tog, ew1) end on ew4

Row 19: p3, ew43

Repeat rows 10-19 fourteen more times.

Row 160: ewrap knit row

Row 161: p3, ew43

Row 162: ewrap knit row

Row 163: p3, ew43

Row 164: ewrap knit row

Row 165: purl row

Row 166: ewrap knit row

Row 167: purl row

Row 168: ewrap knit row

Row 169: purl row

Row 170: ewrap knit row

Row 171: purl row

Row 172: ewrap knit row

Row 173: purl row

Bind off with basic bind-off method. Weave in ends.

Finishing
Using mattress stitch, sew left side and right side together. Weave ends in and block lightly.

7 Comments

• caroline hill April 10, 2018 at 7:10 pm

  Love this blanket .TFS
• Iris Jusino April 11, 2018 at 4:45 am

  This is a question.can I make this blanket on the 28inch AIO loom oppose to stitching them together? I would like to make a larger blanket for my new granddaughter coming in July.
• Denice Johnson April 11, 2018 at 5:00 am

  Yes this blanket can be made on the All-in-One loom. This blanket pattern was made for the Rotating Double Knit Loom so you could see what other projects possibilities could be done.
• Paula Doney April 13, 2018 at 7:53 am

  Can you do this blanket with casting on 52 pegs working as a flat panel? Also, can I use weight 3 to do blanket or will it be too small of a weight? Thanks Denice. Your videos are great!
• Connie April 14, 2018 at 10:14 am

  My question is, after I have done the E wrap cast on, for Row 1(Purl) am I going counterclockwise for that first row and then row two is clockwise? Love the pattern, it’s my first time using the double rotating loom. Thanks in advance for your time.
• Denice Johnson April 15, 2018 at 5:10 am

  The pattern is worked as a flat panel. You work back and forth.
• Denice Johnson April 15, 2018 at 5:14 am

  The pattern is wrote with the maximum amount of pegs that can be used on this loom. If you decided to go with a thinner weight yarn it would be to lacy of this project.

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Elephant Baby Blanket (double knit)

Everyone loves the circus elephants. Now they are knit right into this thick, soft blanket for crib, or use as floor mat at playtime. Large enough to roll around on, 36” X 38” in soft Double Knit. Blanket is knit in two panels with colorful borders added all around.

Loom: All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Red Heart Essentials #5, 100% acrylic, machine wash and dry. 131 yds per skein. Colors: Greyhound, 8 skeins. Peony Pink and Teal, 2 skeins each. For a lighter Teal, use Turquoise. Scrap of black yarn for eyes

Stitches: Stockinette and Purl (as in single knit)

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large sewing needle, graph of elephant for reference, or just use the written instructions. Optional: If you have (5) plastic sewing needles, they are great for holding the pieces in place for sewing.

Gauge: 3 stitches X 4 rows=1 inch

Size: Approx 36” long X 38” wide

Abbreviations: Approximately= aprox   St (sts)= stitch (stitches)   G=greyhound yarn  P=pink yarn   T=teal yarn   L=left   R=right

TECHNIQUES  

Basic Bind Off

1.  Work from end opposite the yarn tail; use your crochet hook to lift off the first loop on the back peg.

2.  Pick up the first loop on the front peg. Pull the front loop on hook through back loop.

Then, repeat picking up next back peg, then front loop; pull 1 thru 1. Repeat process to the end of the loom. Secure final stitch by pulling yarn tail through last loop on hook. With crochet hook, pull yarn tail into finished knit. Finish off at anchor yarns with this basic or crochet bind off.

Purl Stitch as in Single Knit

This is used in top and bottom border, alternating with Stockinette stitch. After a row of Stockinette stitch is complete, start the Purl stitches on back loom where yarn is connected. Work around, R to L, on each peg, working the purl stitches. You will end at beginning of loom, ready for next row of Stockinette.

1. Place the working yarn in front of the peg, below the loop on the peg. Insert the knit hook thru the loop on the peg from the top down.

2. Reach down to catch the working yarn with the knit hook. Pull the working yarn up through the loop on the peg, forming a new loop.

3. Hold the new loop on your hook. Then pull the loop that is still on the peg up and off the peg.

4. Place the new loop onto the peg. Gently tug on the working yarn to tighten the stitch.

Sewing together…

Start with the 2 pieces that are being sewn, lined up, so you can see the top of edge of each piece. Insert the sewing needle into the edge of one piece. Pick up the cross stitch in center of edge of knit. Pull the needle out and pick up the same cross stitch on other piece of knit

(border and panel). Work along both edges, continuing to pick up the cross yarn and alternating between the pieces. Draw the yarn snug as you move down the edges of the knit. This will pull the edges together without showing the sewing yarn. You do not want to sew the edge stitches, only pull them together for the invisible joining.

Instructions

Main panel: Cast on in Stockinette stitch for (48) sts in (P) yarn.  Lay an anchor yarn.

Row 1: Knit in Stockinette

Row 2: Purl as in single knit. This means to work around the entire loom on all (96) pegs doing single-knit Purl sts.

Repeat rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows).   Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on (T) yarn and work rows 1 and 2, for a total of 3 times. (6 rows).

This completes the 2- color border on bottom of panel. Cut (T) yarn and tie on (G) yarn.

Work 12 rows in Stockinette st.

Working the Design:  (See blog entry for full instructions on color change.)

 Design (use graph above for guidance, or just follow row instructions):

Row 13:  Weave 14 sts in stockinette in (G). At peg 15, tie on (T) yarn. Lay (G) yarn aside and do not cut. Work 3 sts in (T) yarn, and drag yarn across the next 4 sts. Wrap the next 3 leg stitches and return the circular, carrying across the (G) sts. to cover all sides of the (P) sts, and lay aside. Hook over the (P) stitches. Pick up (G) and wrap all remaining pegs with full circular. Continue the row with (G) yarn on last 24 sts. When you work the return, carry the (G) yarn across the (T) sts. Do not cut either yarn.  (See process below.)

Tie on (T) yarn in center between rows of pegs.  Wrap the number of pegs needed. 

Take yarn across the (G) area to next (T) pegs, wrap number of pegs needed.

Pick up (G) yarn and wrap all pegs that are not covered with (T) yarn.

Wrap empty pegs maintaining the Stockinette wrap.  All pegs should be covered for this row. Hook over.

Row 14-15: Repeat row 1.

Row 16-17: Work 13 sts in Stockinette with (G) yarn. Work (P) yarn on next 4 sts , skip next 4 stitches, and wrap the next 3 leg stitches, and return, and hook over. Complete the row with the (G) yarn and hook over all (G) pegs.

Row 18: There will be 3 sections of pink in this row, because you will be starting the elephant’s trunk. Work the (P) sts, and then the (G) sts.

(G) 13 sts, (P)4 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 5 sts,(G) last 14 sts. Hook over all.

Starting with row 19, the pink will be dominant section. So start next rows with gray section and cut yarn at beginning of pink section. Tie on (P) and work section. Tie on new (G) yarn, once done with body of elephant. You will not have the (G) yarn going thru the (P) sts. Therefore, you will need to twist the 2 yarns at beginning of each section, so the sections will be continuous.

Row 19: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 11 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 7 sts, (G) 13 sts.

Row 20: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 12 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 12 sts.

Row 21: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 11

Row 22: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 2 sts, (G) 11

Row 23: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G)1 st, , (P) 21 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 10

Row 24: (G) 9sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 1 st, (P) 21 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 11

Row 25: (G) 9 sts, (P) 23 sts, (G) 16 sts

Row 26: Repeat row 25.

Row 27: (G) 10 sts, (P) 22 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 28: (G) 11 sts, (P) 21 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 29: (G) 12 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 17 sts.

Row 30: (G) 12 sts, (P) 18 sts, (G) 18 sts.

Row 31: (G) 13 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 19 sts.

Row 32: (G) 15 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 20 sts.

Cut and tie all (P) yarns together. Make sure the (G) yarn is ready to continue at beginning of row 33.

Continue in Stockinette stitch with (G) yarn for 116 rows, unless you want a smaller blanket.

Top Border of blanket

Work these border rows just as you did the bottom border, only start with the (T) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Tie off (T) yarn; add (P) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Work the basic bind off to remove from loom. Bind off at anchor yarn so that the edges match on both ends.

You will want to add some black yarn for the elephant’s eye, but this can be done later.

Panel 2  (Working the 2^nd panel with the (T) Teal Elephant.)

Repeat all instructions for 2^nd panel as for 1^st panel, only substitute the (T) yarn for the (P) when working the Elephant design.

Borders of stripes are sewn into the blanket in center between the 2 panels, and down each side to give the blanket a wider size and more color.

Border strips (Knit 3)

Cast on 10 sts in Stockinette with (P) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Tie on the (T) yarn. Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Note: There is no need to cut and tie at all the color changes as the yarn can be carried thru the knit and not show. So lay the (P) yarn aside and carry thru between pegs 2 and 3 as you work the next (T) rows.

All stripes will be worked with Stockinette from this point to top border.

Work (6) rows in Stockinette with (P) yarn.

Work (8) rows in Stockinette with (T) yarn.

Continue working, alternating the colors with (8) rows each. Work a total of (9) sections with (T) yarn. Finish the border with one section of (6) rows in (P) yarn. Then work the (T) and (P) sections again as in Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

The entire border is (12) sections of (P), and (11) sections of (T).

Once complete, bind off with basic bind off. Your border is a total of 172 rows, which matches the center panels.

Work (2) additional border strips.

Finishing and Sewing your Blanket

Be sure to give each elephant an eye. You can use the scrape of black yarn and sewing needle. Wrap thru to both sides on one stitch, and just tuck the yarn tails into the knit.

Lay the blanket out on bed or floor with the (3) borders in place. When sewing, be sure that the Purl stripes match across the top and bottom of the blanket. You may want to put a few plastic pins in each section before sewing to keep lined up.

Use invisible stitch to sew the sections together. Knot securely at each edge of a seam.

Blocking is not required, but may be done around the elephant designs to give them the best shape.

Your blanket is complete. You have a wonderful play pad for your little one. If a thinner blanket is desired, substitute the #5 yarn for a #4 worsted weight. Total size will be a bit smaller, but the designs will look just as nice.

1 Comment

• Bethany Dailey June 30, 2017 at 1:31 am

  This is so cute! I adore it! <3

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Stitchology 33: Encased Ribbing

This is a wonderful stitch that, like last month’s choice, creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric.  Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. Another terrific thing about this stitch is that it is absolutely perfect for summer knitting, as its only two pattern rows are so easy to remember and work on the go!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

(SWYF) x2 directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front 2 times. This simply means that the next 2 pegs will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. Repeat for the next peg in line.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches after the border square are worked only once: at the end of the first row, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the 2nd row, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeat Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches after the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2:  (SWYF) x2, *p2, (SWYF) x2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until desired length.

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Round 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 2: *(SWYF) x2, p2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until desired length.

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

3 Comments

• Bethany Dailey June 5, 2017 at 11:26 am

  The notes on the entire square that is pictured above, are listed at the Ravelry project listing for this stitch here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/encased-ribbing-stitchology-33 🙂
• Dawn L Raney June 11, 2017 at 6:40 am

  I was wondering if there is a way to make adults hats on the adjustable sock loom sock loom?
• Bethany Dailey June 11, 2017 at 1:31 pm

  Hi Dawn 🙂

  Sure, there is always a way to do what you want. The trick is figuring out the way to get it done, haha! 😉 In this case, the whole idea hinges on the number of pegs available and the gauge of the loom itself. If you are talking about the Sock Loom 2: http://www.knittingboard.com/sock-loom-2/ , there are 54 pegs with a gauge of 3/8″ center to center of pegs, which works beautifully with worsted weight yarn. This may not be enough pegs to make an adult hat the traditional way, but you could always make them in panels, stitch them together and gather the top. You could also try to loosely ewrap the pegs for the main stitch, or use a very loose stitch pattern, such as the Figure 8 stitch…this would serve to make the overall circumference wider to help accommodate an adult sized head. Now if you were talking the All-n-One Loom, which has the same gauge a the Sock Loom 2, then there would absolutely be no trouble using any kind of stitch you desire to make an adult hat.

  The best way to determine if this will work for you on a loom with fewer pegs is to work a swatch of about 4″ by 4″ in your desired stitch and see how many pegs (& rows) it takes to equal that 4″. Take that total peg count and divide it by 4, which gives you your stitch count per inch. Then multiply this number by the inches needed for your hat and you will end up with the number of pegs needed to make that work.

  So: Make a 4″ x 4″ swatch. Total # of stitches ÷ 4 = stitches per inch. Stitches per inch x head circumference in inches = total number of pegs needed. 🙂

  Hope that helps!
  Bethany~

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Nyahbelle’s Mermaid Tail

Every little girl at some point dreams of being a little mermaid. Let your little one’s imagination come to life with this cozy mermaid tail cocoon.

LOOM:  Knitting loom: 28” with Extenders (168 pegs total) + 6 peg sliders (2).

YARN: Approx 2,000 yards of worsted weight wool blend. Knit Picks Chroma, 70% superwash wool, 30% nylon, 198 yds/100g (10 balls) in Lupine color was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Cable needle, knitting tool, row counter (optional), cable needle

GAUGE: 9 sts x 13 rnds = 2” in stockinette

SIZE: 48” L x 17  W cocoon; 26” tail length.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain
st(s)=stitch(es)
cn=cable needle
Back Cross (BCP)=With the working yarn held to the front of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the center of the loom (peg is now empty), knit the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the stitch from the cn on the empty peg then proceed to purl it.
Front Cross (FCP)=With the working yarn held to the center of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the front of the loom between the pegs (peg is now empty), purl the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the peg from the cn on the empty peg, proceed to knit it.

Basic Hourglass Chart-multiple of 8 sts

INSTRUCTIONS

Set the knitting at 168 pegs, using the peg extenders.

Cast on 168 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k8, [work Row 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 12: p8, [work Row 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 13: k8, [work Row 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 14: p8, [work Row 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 15: k8, [work Row 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 16: p8, [work Row 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row 17: k8, [work Row 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 18: p8, [work Row 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  19: k8, [work Row 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 20: p8, [work Row 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  21: k8, [work Row 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 22: p8, [work Row 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  23: k8, [work Row 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 24: p8, [work Row 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  25: k8, [work Row 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 26: p8, [work Row 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Rep Row 11-Row 26: 4 more times.

From this point forward, you will be working in the round. Join to work in the round.

**Next Rnd: work Rnd 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.**

Rep from ** to ** 12 more times.

Next 4 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Remove all the stitches off the knitting loom onto a piece of contrasting color yarn.

Adjust the knitting loom and set it to 84 pegs using the 6 peg sliders, instead of the extenders.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing two stitches per peg.

Next rnd: *k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to end. (84 sts).

Basic bind off.

Centering the vertical opening at the cast on edge (created by the first 130 rows), sew the bind off section flat using the mattress stitch.

Weave all ends in.

Fin

(Make 2)

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p2tog, p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until 20 sts remain.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Mattress stitch together the two bind off edges.

Assembly

Centering the seam from the first 130 rows (where the opening is at the top of the cocoon), mattress stitch the straight edge of the tail around the cocoon, starting at the midpoint on the back of the tail and continuing to the front then around the back of the tail to the midpoint.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

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9 Comments

• Susan January 22, 2017 at 9:36 pm

  I want to say this looks amazing!! I am just having a trouble with the bcp and fcp. I don’t understand “slip stitch to cn” then how the beg becomes empty. Thank you for all your help.
• KB Designer January 22, 2017 at 10:09 pm

  You are removing the loop from the peg and putting it on a cable needle.
• Billie Cramer January 23, 2017 at 8:55 am

  Need a video of this.
• Donna February 13, 2017 at 7:18 pm

  Is there any way this could be done on the super afghan loom? Just curious. Thank you.
• Donna February 13, 2017 at 11:41 pm

  Can you do this on the super afghan loom? I don’t have the 28″ knitting loom with extenders. Thank you.
• KB Designer February 14, 2017 at 1:45 pm

  Donna, the pattern starts off as a flat panel and then you have to knit it in the round. You could knit it all flat then seam it but as it is written, it was designed to be knitted in the round.
• Donna February 15, 2017 at 8:05 pm

  Thank you. After reading the pattern I think it would be easier if I just invested in the 28″ loom. I can always use a new one in my collection. I already have 7 different looms you all sell and I use them all. Keep making them and I will keep buying them!
• JANICE DEMARÉ February 16, 2017 at 8:37 am

  I think this is amazing. I have just taken an interest in loom knitting and I am wondering if you can help me with two random questions.

  1. Where can I find that casting tool that is used to cast on? what is it called?
  2. Why do you skip pegs for some patterns and how do you decide which ones to skip?
• Donna February 17, 2017 at 2:02 pm

  Is there a video of how to do the hourglass stitch from left to right and then right to left? I am confused which part of the cross has the purl stitch. Thank you!

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Woodlands Throw (Double Knit)

Design by Jacque Darragh

See beautiful soft stripes emerge from the one yarn. Stitch pattern creates lots of texture.

Loom:  28” Knitting Board + peg extenders for double knit set at 2cm spacing.

Yarn:  Lion Brand Scarfie, 4 skeins.  Cream/Taupe. 312 yds. per skein.  Bulky weight. Hand wash and dry flat.

Stitches:  Rib, Stockinette, and Honeycomb pattern

Finished Sizes:  34 x 44 inches

Notions Needed:  Knit hook and crochet hook

Gauge:  2 sts X 3 rows=1 inch

Continue reading »

5 Comments

• Melissa February 20, 2016 at 9:32 am

  Beautiful! Two questions, what is the spacing between rows and is there a graphic of the peg wrap?
• Pat February 20, 2016 at 10:22 am

  Hi Melissa, the boards are at mid spacing or 2cm apart. You can look at the pictorial instructions on knitting board website. If you go to the Criss cross stitch under Double Knit, the weaving is the same, but this design works 2 rows of each stitch pattern. So the whole Honeycomb pattern is a total of 4 rows.
• Melissa February 20, 2016 at 4:35 pm

  Thank you!
• Linda February 25, 2016 at 10:57 am

  I love these! So beautiful. I a newbie, but learning fast. Do you have a pattern for the hat?
• Pat March 2, 2016 at 11:21 am

  The hat pattern was written by designer and will be posted soon.

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Crayon Box Throw (double knit)

Design by Jacquelyn Darragh

Work with the Ribbing stitch in this fun, colorful throw. The bright colors and bold stripes make this a simple knit favorite and with the double knit, double the warmth!

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight, 100% Acrylic, 355 yards per skein. Machine washable and dryable Colors: Grape, 2 skeins. Pink, Tropical Pink, Yellow, Peacock Blue, 1 skein each. Neon Green, I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight , 255 yards per skein. 1 skein

Stitches: Rib Stitch and Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 5 stitches X 6 rows = 2 inches

 Size: 28 x 34 inches

Instructions

Use two strands of yarn as one, throughout the making of this throw. When you are knitting a solid color, for example, grape rib stitch, just use both ends of the skein of yarn, pulling one strand from the center and one strand from the outside. When using two different colors together, it will be much easier if you use one strand of each pulling from the center of the skein, which will keep them from tangling.

With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. Always tie on new color at 2^nd stitch so that knots do not show from outer edge.

Cast on: 64 stitches in Stockinette stitch with Grape yarn. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Note: Complete throw is worked in Rib Stitch until you come to the bind off row.

Rib Stitch: After the cast on, start first row by wrapping the top 1^st peg and bring down to the bottom 3^rd peg. You are skipping peg 1 and 2 on lower board. Your yarn is at an angle. Now go back up to top board to 3^rd peg and wrap. Take yarn down to lower 5^th peg. Continue wrapping every other peg at this angle till you get to the end of your stitches. To return, take yarn around end of pegs to wrap the top last peg. Continue by wrapping all the empty pegs. You will see that you are going back with peg 1 to 3 again and working at the opposite angle. This is what creates the ribs. It is correct that the last pegs are wrapped consecutively. Hook over all pegs. Repeat for each row according to color design.

Knit 5 rows Grape yarn. Tie on Lime yarn. Do not cut the Grape, but carry it in along with Lime yarn.

Knit 1 row in Lime. Cut Lime and knot.

Knit 3 rows Grape. Tie in Lime yarn. Cut grape and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut the one strand of yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Blue yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime in rib. Cut and tie off the Lime yarn. Tie on the other end of the Blue yarn so that you now have both strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Cut the blue yarn and tie off. Tie on Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on the Grape yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on two strands of the Pink yarn.

Knit 4 rows in Pink.   Cut one strand of Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Tropical Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink rib. Cut and tie off the Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Tropical Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut both strands of yarn and tie off. Tie on 2 strands of Grape yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Lime.

Knit 5 rows of Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut one strand of Tropical Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein, and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off the Tropical Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Pink.

Knit 4 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on the Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on two strands of the Blue yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut one strand of blue yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Lime yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime. Cut and tie off the Blue yarn. Tie on the other end of the Lime yarn, so that you now have both strands of Lime.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 3 rows in Grape. Do not cut grape yarn but let it carry through. Tie on 2 strands of Lime and knit one row of Lime. Cut and tie off Lime yarn.

Knit 5 rows in Grape.

Knit 1 row in Grape Stockinette stitch.

Bind off the board remembering that you are still treating 2 strands as one, so each side of the board in which you are doing the crochet bind off, will have two loops. Weave in ends.

Bind off the anchor yarn treating 2 strands as one. Lift two loops over two loops. Weave in ends.

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‘Back to Basics’ Blanket (double knit)

A GREAT PATTERN FOR BEGINNERS!!  …an introduction to double knit. No matter how fierce the winter gets, this lovely throw will keep you warm and cozy. Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool. 137 yards per skein. Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry. Colors: Camel Heather (Camel), 3 skeins, White, 3 skeins, and Fjord Heather (Blue), 2 skeins

Stitches: Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 2 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Size: 34 x 50 inches

Basic Notes: With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. All stitches are Stockinette. Check out chart below.

To keep side edges even and smooth, tie on your new yarns at 2^nd stitch between the rows of pegs. This will keep the knots away from the edge and hidden from the finished throw. When cutting each yarn, leave a yarn tail approximately 3” that will lay flat between the 2 rows of pegs.

Cast on row will be the same as one row of stockinette stitch. You start on Left side of loom on top peg #1 with a slip knot; bring yarn down to peg #2 on lower board. Wrap yarn around, and continue back up to peg # 3 on top board. Continue weaving the yarn around every other peg, alternating from one board to the other, to end. Wrap around the end at last peg. Return back to beginning by wrapping all the pegs that were skipped on first pass. Now all the pegs for this project will be wrapped.

Lay a piece of yarn across the stitches with the yarn ends dangling at each end of loom. This is referred to as the anchor yarn or waste yarn. It is usually removed after the knitting is complete. Now, wrap all the pegs again just as before so that you have 2 loops on each peg. You are ready to hook over using the knit hook. This means to lift the bottom loop, on each peg over the top loop, and into the center of the loom. Do this to all pegs, so that they have only one wrap of yarn. Your stitches are now cast on and you are ready to work in stockinette stitch.

The stockinette stitch produces a smooth knit, and is usually the first stitch learned in double knitting. It is the same process as casting on. Once you wrap all pegs again, hook over. This completes one row of stockinette stitch. Continue this stitch with the color changes for the entire afghan.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 64 stitches with Camel yarn in Stockinette stitch. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Knit 7 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 7 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 8 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 2 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 8 rows in Camel.

Bind Off your stitches with a loose crochet bind off.

Bind Off at anchor yarn with loose crochet bind off.

Now that the blanket is complete, finish off with this method. Place blanket in pot or sink with hot water for 4 minutes. Allow yarn to fully soak up all the water. Remove from sink and gently roll in a full size towel or two to absorb as much of the water as possible. Place in your dryer for five minutes on medium heat to fluff and soften the wool. Block to specified size and allow to air dry until fully dry. Enjoy your lovely throw!

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Celebration Afghan

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 18, brings you a lovely double knit afghan. Enhance your home during the holidays with this classic wool throw destined to become a family heirloom.

Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

Loom: 38” Knitting Board set for double knit with .5” spacer setting.

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool.  137 yards per skein.  Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry.

Colors: Hollyberry (R) 9 skeins, White (W), 2 skeins.

Stitches: Stockinette and Rib

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large darning needle.

Size: 37 x 47 inches

Gauge:  3 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Abbreviations:  (R)= Hollyberry Red yarn.  (W)= White yarn.  

Back to back weave: single pass of the loom.  Basic wrap around back peg of stitch and then carry the yarn straight down to lower peg of same stitch.  This can be done for just a single stitch or several.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 111 stitches with (R) in stockinette stitch.  Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Row 1: Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Rows 2 – 7:  Work in (R) in rib stitch.

Note: Rows 8 – 138 are all in stockinette stitch unless noted for basic weave.

Row 8:  Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Row 9:  Tie on (W) yarn and work in stockinette on stitches 3-109.  Wrap the rest of the pegs in (R) yarn basic weave, and hook over.

Row 10:  Work row in (R) yarn.  Carry (W) yarn through.

Row 11: Work (W) on rows 2 – 110.  Wrap basic weave on pin 1 and then loosely to 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 12: Work (W) yarn on pins 2, 6, 8,10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24,26, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40 42, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70, 72, 74, 78, 80 82, 86, 88, 90, 94, 96, 102, 104, 106, and 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 13:  Wrap (W) yarn on pins 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41,42, 44, 46, 47, 49, 50, 52, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 62, 63, 65, 66, 68, 70, 71, 73, 74, 76, 78, 79, 81, 82, 84, 86, 87, 89, 90, 92, 94, 95, 97, 98, 100, 102, 103, 105, 106, 108, 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 14: Repeat Row 12.

Row 15: Repeat Row 11.

Row 16: Work one row in (R) yarn.

Row 17:  Wrap even-numbered pins from 2 – 110 in (W) yarn.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 18:  Wrap odd-numbered pins in (W) yarn from 3 to 109.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 19: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 20 – 26: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 27: Tie on (W) yarn and wrap 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 28: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 29: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98, 102 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 30: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 31: Repeat Row 27.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 32 – 38: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 39:  Wrap (W) on pins 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 40: Wrap (W) on pins 7, 9, 13, 15, 19, 21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 63, 67, 69 73, 75, 79, 81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 103, and 105.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 41:  Wrap (W) on pins 6, 10, 12, 16, 18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42, 46, 48, 52, 54, 58, 60, 64, 66, 70, 72, 76, 78, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 100, 102, and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 42:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71, 74, 77, 80, 83, 86, 89, 92, 95, 98, 101, 104, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 43: Repeat Row 41

Row 44: Repeat Row 40

Row 45: Repeat Row 39.  Cut and tie off (W) Yarn.

Rows 46-52:  Work in (R) yarn.

Rows 53 – 57:  Repeat rows 27 – 31.

Rows 58 – 68:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 69:  Wrap (W) on pins 53, 55, 57, and 59.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 70:  Wrap (W) on pins 51, 54, 56, and 58.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 71:  Wrap (W) on pins 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61 and 63.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 72: Wrap (W) on pins 48, 51, 52, 53, 56, 59, 60, 61 and 64.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 73: Wrap (W) on pins 47, 49, 51–54, 58-61, 63, and 65. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 74: Wrap (W) on pins 46, 48, 51- 55, 57-61, 64, and 66. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 75: Wrap (W) on pins 45, 47, 49, 52- 55, 57, 58-60, 63, 65, and 67. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 76: Wrap (W) on pins 53-55 and 57-59. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 77: Wrap (W) on pins 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, and 64 – 68.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 78: Wrap (W) on pins 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, and 63 – 67.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 79: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 43, 46-50, 53, 59, 62-66, 69, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 80: Wrap (W) on pins 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 83, 86, 88, 90 and 93. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 81: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 82: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 44, 46, 54, 56, 58, 66, 68, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 83: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 84: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 85: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 43, 46-50, 55, 59, 62-66, 69, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 86:  Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, 63-67, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 87: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, 64-68, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, and 96-100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 88: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 53-55, 57-59, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 89: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 45, 47, 49, 52-55, 57-60, 63, 65, 67, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 90: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 46, 48, 51-55, 57-61, 64, 66, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 91: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 35, 37, 47, 49, 51-54, 58-61, 63, 65, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 92: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 14, 22, 24, 26, 34, 36, 48, 51-53, 56, 59-61, 64, 76, 78, 86, 88, 90 98, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 93: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61, 63, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 94: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 51, 54, 56, 68, 61, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 95: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 53, 55, 57, 59, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 96: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 56, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, and 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 97: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 48, 56, 64, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, 96-100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 98: Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 49, 56, 63, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 99: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 50, 55, 57, 62, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 100: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 51-54, 56, 58-61, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 101: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 50, 55, 57, 62, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 102:  Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 49, 54, 56, 58, 63, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 103: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 49, 53, 56, 59, 63, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 104: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 39, 41, 50-52, 56, 60-62, 71, 73, 83, 86, 88, 90 93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 105: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 56, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 106:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 24, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 88, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 107: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 24, 32, 56, 80, 88, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 108: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 17, 24, 31, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 81, 88, 95, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 109:  Wrap (W) on pins 18, 23, 25, 30, 56, 82, 87, 89 and 94.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 110:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19-22, 24, 26-29, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 83-86, 88, 90-93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 111:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 18, 23, 25, 30, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 82, 87, 89, 94, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 112:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 12, 17, 22, 24, 26, 31, 36, 39, 41, 44, 56, 68, 71, 73, 76, 81, 86, 88, 90, 95 100, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 113:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 17, 21, 24, 27, 31, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 81, 85, 88, 91, 95, 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 114:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 18-20, 24, 28-30, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 82-84, 88, 92-94, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 115:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 24, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 88, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 116:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 24, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 88, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 117: Wrap (W) on rows 3 to 109.  Wrap basic weave on pegs 1 and 2, and then loosely to 110 and 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 118: Wrap (W) on pin 3, then even-numbered pins from 4-108, and 109. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 119: Repeat row 117.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Rows 120 – 126:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 127:  Repeat row 19.

Row 128:  Repeat row 18.

Row 129:  Repeat row 17.

Row 130: Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 131-135:  Repeat Row 15, 14, 13, 12,11.

Row 136: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 137:  Repeat Row 9.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Row 138:  Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 139 – 144:  Work in Rib stitch.

Row 145: Work in (R) yarn in stockinette.

Bind off 2 over 2 with crochet hook.  Bind off at anchor yarn in 2 over 2 and remove anchor yarn.  Weave in yarn tails.

4 Comments

• Alyna December 19, 2015 at 3:26 pm

  Just beautiful!
• jean sudnik December 19, 2015 at 3:37 pm

  Could you please make this downloadable. i ordered the 38″ board to do the afghan, looking forward to making it thanks
• KB Designer December 19, 2015 at 4:24 pm

  Jean, you can copy it to your desktop and save it to your computer.
• jean sudnik January 6, 2016 at 6:53 pm

  i am working on this afghan and just not sure how to do the weave, i am on row 12 and did it according to the directions, i get to the end of the row and hook it over then i do the red on the others i end up with both yarns at the end of the row. Is this correct? and if it is do i then take my yarns to peg 1 to start the next row or do i start my next row by turning my board and starting on peg 111 as peg number 1. on my other rows there wasn’t alot of changing colors so i just wraped as i went and didn’t have any issues til now. Normally i never turn my board because i can do it without turning it, to me it is a pain and cumbursome to keep turning it. I would like to see a video of how to do rows 12 and 13 so i can see how you are suspose to do them. it doesn’t have to be a professional video, just take out your cell phone and video tape you doing it. thanks so much i really want this to look as good as the designer’s . This is the nicest afghan that has been posted in a long time and was very expensive since i had to buy the knitting board and the yarn that was a fortune and really don’t want to give up on doing it. thanks again

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Quiet Moments Blanket

Envelope yourself this fall in a luxuriously soft blanket. Cooler temperatures call for warm, cozy knits, this double knit blanket is easy and fast to knit up. 

Knitting Loom: 28” Knitting Board + extenders , spacer set at 2cm.

Yarn: Approx 925 yards of bulky weight yarn. Sample used Lion Brand Homespun in Waterfall color (5 skeins).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size:  Approx 45 x 50 inches.

Instructions

Cast on 64 pegs with the basic cast on method.

Continue working in stockinette stitch until item measures 45 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off.

Create 6-inch fringes and add them to the cast on edge and bind off edge. Suggest to add them every other stitch for a fuller fringe effect.

2 Comments

• Jonnita October 19, 2015 at 3:51 am

  Sometimes simple is best. Does anybody ever put how much time it takes to do some of these projects, it would be helpful.
• Marsha Hearn October 21, 2015 at 5:18 pm

  Can the KB S-shaped loom be used to make this Quiet Moments blanket instead of the loom called for in the instructions?
  Thanks.

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White Pines Blanket

Fall has arrived, it is time for long evenings on the porch sipping a warm cup of tea, wrapped in a cozy, warm blanket. The White Pines Blanket uses the new Zippy looms to create a cozy thick blanket that knits up in a couple of days.

MATERIALS

Knitting loom: Zippy Loom (7 Zippys).

Yarn: Approx 300 yards of super bulky yarn.  Loops & Threads Chunky was used in sample (11 skeins)

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, blocking wires and blocking pins

Size: 40 x 50 inches

Gauge: 4 sts x 3 rows= 4 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations
ew=ewrap
k=knit stitch (may substitute with flat stitch)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
BO=Bind off
Rep=Repeat
st(s)=Stitch(es)
k2tog=knit two stitches together
ssk=slip, slip knit.
yo=yarn over (ewrap the peg)
sl=slip (skip the peg with yarn towards the back of peg)

Pattern Notes:

INSTRUCTIONS
(Make 2 panels)

Cast on 27 sts (from left to right).

Row 1: Sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: Sl1, p to last stitch, k1.

**Row 3: Sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 4: Sl1, p to last st, k1.

Row 5: Sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 6: Sl1, p to last st, k1.

Row 7: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k2tog, [yo, k1]3x, yo, ssk, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2tog, [yo, k1]3x, yo, ssk, ssk, k2.

Row 8: Sl1, p1, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Repeat Rows 7 and 8: 3x more.**

Rep from ** to **: 4 more times

Next row: Sl1, k to the end of row.

Next row: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Rep last two rows: 3x more.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Assembly

Mattress stitch seam both panels together. Weave ends in. Block if necessary.

Breakdown of Row 7:

First, we will move the stitches to the different pegs, to leave pegs open for the yarn overs. After all the stitches have been moved to the appropriate pegs, then you will work the row.

Row 7: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k2tog, [yo, k1]3x, yo, ssk, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2tog, [yo, k1]3x, yo, ssk, ssk, k2.

Step 1: Remove loop off peg 3 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 4 to peg 3.

Step 3: Place loop from Step 1 back on peg 3. (Peg 3 has two loops)

Step 4: Remove loop off peg 5 and hold it.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 6 to peg 4.

Step 6: Place loop from Step 4 on peg 4. (Peg 4 has two loops)

Step 7: Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Step 8: Remove loop off peg 13 and hold it.

Step 9: Move loop from peg 12 to peg 13.

Step 10: Place loop from Step 8 back on peg 13. (Peg 13 has two loops)

Step 11: Remove loop off peg 11 and hold it.

Step 12: Move loop from peg 10 to peg 12.

Step 13: Place loop from Step 11 on peg 12. (Peg 12 has two loops)

Step 14: Move loop from peg 9 to peg 10.

Step 15: Remove loop off peg 15 and hold it.

Step 16. Move loop from peg 16 to peg 15.

Step 17: Place loop from Step 15 on peg 15. (Peg 15 has two loops)

Step 18: Remove loop from peg 17 and hold it.

Step 19: Move loop from peg 18 to peg 16.

Step 20: Place loop from Step 18 on peg 16. (Peg 16 has two loops)

Step 21: Move loop from peg 19 to peg 18.

Step 22: Remove loop off peg 25 and hold it.

Step 23: Move loop from peg 24 to peg 25.

Step 24: Place loop from Step 22 on peg 25. (Peg 25 has two loops)

Step 25: Remove loop off peg 23 and hold it.

Step 26: Move loop from peg 22 to peg 24.

Step 27: Place loop from Step 25 on peg 24. (Peg 24 has two loops)

Step 28: Move loop from peg 21 to peg 22.

Empty pegs: peg 5, 7, 9, 11, 17, 19, 21, and 23.

Step 29: Knit the row (treat the pegs with two loops on the peg as one loop, ewrap the empty pegs).

Chart shows Rows 3-14 of the pattern instructions.

7 Comments

• kelly October 15, 2015 at 12:30 pm

  Are there any videos for these projects?
• KB Designer October 15, 2015 at 1:09 pm

  Kelly, no, there are no videos for the projects.
• Kris October 15, 2015 at 7:16 pm

  Help!!! I don’t understand row 7. I have looked everywhere on line but can’t figure it out. Can anyone help? I want to work on this but am stuck. Thanks
• KB Designer October 15, 2015 at 8:03 pm

  Hi Kris,
  There is a breakdown of row 7 at the bottom of the pattern. It is broken down step-by-step.
• KB Designer October 15, 2015 at 8:04 pm

  What part of the breakdown are you needing help with?
• Kris October 15, 2015 at 8:34 pm

  My apologies. I didn’t realize it was a breakdown. I thought it was separate rows. I will give it a try. Thanks for you quick response.
• Anne October 16, 2015 at 2:50 pm

  Hi I’m very new to knitting looms and so far I love it. My one problem is that I don’t know how to join two different yarns together to either change colors or to continue to make it a larger project when I run out of yarn. I know how to join on a normal double side peg board-loom for double knits and socks from all the videos and books I have. (I’m more of a visual learner) However I can’t find any information on how or where to do this on a one side peg broad like the Zippy loom. If you can help me I would really appreciate because I want to finish my project soon. Winter is coming!

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Sea Waves Afghan

Knit in fun colors with stripes and large circles giving lots of colorful variations just like gentle waves. This afghan is knit in three pieces and sewn together matching the stripes so that it looks to be in 1 large piece.

Size: 34″ x 44″

Loom: 28” Knitting Board + extenders, set up in double knit with 2cm spacing

Stitches: Stockinette

Yarn: Patons Shetland Chunky, 75% Acrylic and 25% Wool. Wash in warm water and lay flat to dry. Total 14 skeins

Color Main yarn is Med Blue (B), 8 skeins. Accent Color #1 is Peacock (P), 3 skeins, Accent color #2 is Aran Tweed (A), 3 skeins

Notions Needed: Knit hook, crochet hook, measure tape, large darning needle for sewing

Gauge: 3 Sts X 4 Rows=1 inch

Instructions:

Center Section is worked on full width of loom or 62 stitches.

Cast On 62 stitches in Stockinette with main color yarn (B). Lay anchor yarn.

Work 10 rows in Stockinette stitch.

Tie on (P) yarn at 3^rd stitch in center of loom. You can leave the (B) yarn attached as the stripes are only 5 rows.

Work (3) rows in Stockinette in (P) yarn. Cut with 3” tail.

Tie on (A) yarn at 3^rd stitch in center of loom and tie it also to tail of (P) yarn. Lay tails inside between the pegs.

Work 2 rows in Stockinette. Cut and tie on to main yarn (B). Continue working with main yarn for 2 additional rows.

Begin the circles. You can follow the diagram row by row to work the circle rows.

Explanation of circle rows: Each circle will be 10 sts wide at widest point and 10 rows at widest point. Each side edge (B) will be 5 sts with 4 stitches between the circles at widest point. We used a separate strand of yarn for the 4 circles, so tie on a separate skein for each circle. We carried the main yarn thru the circles maintaining Stockinette weave. This will give the afghan more stretch in this area. Work the color sts in Stockinette also.

Cut and tie off each accent color yarn.

Work 1 row with (B) yarn.

Repeat the circle rows by tying on the accent colors, but use the accent colors in opposite locations to have the colors alternating.

Cut and tie off each accent color yarn.

Work (2) rows with (B) yarn.

Tie on (P) yarn at 3^rd st and work 2 rows. Cut and knot.

Tie on (A) yarn at 3^rd st and work 3 rows. Cut and knot.

**Work 20 rows with (B) yarn.

**Repeat the stripe rows using both accent colors, for 5 rows, 2 (P) and 3 (A).

Repeat the ** rows 2 additional times ending with the 5 rows of stripes. Tie off the accent colors.

Work 2 rows (B) yarn.

Repeat the entire section of Circles.

Work 2 rows (B) yarn.

Work 2 rows (A) yarn

Work 3 rows (P) yarn.

Work 10 rows with (B) yarn. Cut yarn leaving a 3” yarn tail.

Bind Off with 2 loop method using crochet hook. Start at end opposite the yarn tail. Once afghan is off loom, knot last loop using the yarn tail.

Bind Off at anchor yarn with 2 loop method. Knot by pulling yarn tail thru last loop. You can tuck in any yarn tails into the afghan with crochet hook.

Side panels are knit to widen the size of the afghan. Be sure to follow the accent colors of the stripes so that they match when sewn together. The outer edges also have been knit with a placket edge to give a nice feel to the balance of the afghan once complete.

Placket edge: This means that the first 4 stitches of the beginning edge will be doubled. To do this, weave in Stockinette on first 4 sts and return to beginning. Do not hook over. Now weave the entire piece, row 1, in Stockinette weaving back to the beginning. The first 4 sts will have 4 loops on them while all others have 2 loops. Now hook over the entire row. Lift 2 over 2, leaving these 4 sts with 2 loops and all others with just 1 loop. (The first cast on row will have just 3 loops on the first 4 sts. Lift 1 over 2.)

Side panels: (knit 2, 1 with placket on first 4 sts and 1 with placket on last 4 sts)

Cast on 16 sts. Lay anchor yarn.

Be sure to mirror the amount of rows and colors as on the center section.

Left side panel: Work placket on left edge. Work 10 rows (B), 3 (P), 2 (A), 25 (B), 2 (P), 3 (A), 20 (B), 2 (P), 3 (A), 20 (B), 3 (A), 2 (P), 20 (B), 3 (A),2 (P), 25 (B), 2 (A), 3 (P), 10 (B).

Right side panel: Same except do placket on right edge.

Lay out the sections to confirm that all stripes match. Do a whip stitch at each stripe to maintain the spacing. Using a large eyed darning needle and (B) yarn, sew the side sections to the center section. Be sure to do this with the invisible stitch by picking up the cross stitches on each edge. This lays in the center of the knitted edge. Once complete, you will not be able to find the seams. You can remove the whip stitch as you come to them, as they are not needed once the pieces are sewn with the invisible stitch. Tuck in any remaining yarn tails into knit for a finished afghan.

7 Comments

• Jonnita August 26, 2015 at 3:50 am

  Could this be made on the Afghan loom or the aio, too?
• Carolann Adair August 27, 2015 at 2:51 pm

  Thank you for sharing, when I get better at this, I will want to try this pattern, could this pattern also work on the 38″ Afghan board? Please let me know, thank you again.
• Pat August 27, 2015 at 3:00 pm

  Hi Carolann, yes this afghan can be made on the 38″ knitting board with tightest spacer setting.
• Pat August 27, 2015 at 3:03 pm

  Hi Jonnita, The afghan circular loom is designed for single knit, but you can still do double knit on the AllnOne loom but your center piece would be more narrow and you would have, probably,just 3 circles. A nice smaller afghan.
• Carolann Adair August 27, 2015 at 5:58 pm

  Thank you Pat, I think that is what I will do, and later I will purchase the 28″ loom; I am getting the 38″ Afghan loom at HSN, their are having a flex with it, also I am also getting your new hat loom too, again thanks for all the looms you have put together.

  Sincerely Carolann Adair
• Bethany Dailey August 28, 2015 at 4:17 pm

  I love this! I am such a fan of spots and stripes! 🙂
• Pat August 31, 2015 at 6:27 am

  Thanks Bethany, Working in double knit makes this type of designs, easier to do.

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Haley’s Baby Blanket

A simple baby size blanket pattern to create a lovely heirloom. Switch colors around to create a unique baby blanket.

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom

Yarn: Approx 550 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample knit using Hobby Lobby Fantasy. Color: Antique Teal.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: Approx 20 sts x 24 rows= 4 inches in stockinette (unblocked).

Size: 25 x 30 inches

INSTRUCTIONS

Crochet cast on 104 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 11: Slip 1, e-wrap knit to end of the row.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: Slip 1, purl to last peg, e-wrap knit the last peg.
Row 12: Slip 1, purl 8, e-wrap knit 90 pegs, purl last 7 pegs, e-wrap knit the last peg.
Row 13: E-wrap knit to end of row.

Repeat Rows 12 and 13: until blanket is 28 inches long.

Repeat Rows 1-11: for garter stitch border.

Bind off loosely with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Tips: To create color stripes: join the yarn at the first peg of the row, work the desired number rows with the new color. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail, and rejoin the old color (or a new color).

3 Comments

• Catherine May 21, 2015 at 10:37 am

  I have a question about row 12. You say to cast on 104 pegs, but row 12 equals 106 pegs. Am I reading this wrong?

  Thank you for your help. ????
  Catherine
• Catherine May 21, 2015 at 10:40 am

  Actually it’s 107 pegs. I can’t count. Lol. 90 plus 7 plus 8 plus 1 skip plus ewrap last peg.

  Sorry for all the question marks too. Not sure how that happened.

  Catherine
• Bobbie May 21, 2015 at 12:53 pm

  Beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

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Bicolor Basketweave Afghan

Envelope yourself in luxurious merino wool softness with the bicolor basketweave afghan. This design takes a regular basketweave design and adds to it a touch of color by adding horizontal stripes.

Pattern Information

Knitting Loom
Afghan Loom, 198 pegs (Pattern uses 196 pegs).

Yarn
Approx 1,300 yds of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Sample was worked using Knit Picks Swish,100% merino, 110 yds/50g per skein,  in Dusk and Dove Heather (6 skeins of each color).

Other
Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Skills knowledge
knit stitch, purl stitch, knitting a flat panel.

Size
35 x 35 inches

Gauge
22 x 30= 4 inches

Level
Advanced beginner

Pattern notes
The item is worked flat.

Abbreviations

CO=Cast on

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

Sts=stitches

MC=Dusk

CC=Dove Heather
Rep=repeat

DIRECTIONS

Using MC, CO 196 sts using the crochet cast on method. Continue with MC.

Row 1-Row 4: *k4, p4: rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 5-Row 8: *p4, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 9-Row 12: *k4, p4: rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 12-Row 16: p4, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Cut MC leaving a 6 inch yarn tail. Join CC.

Rep Rows 1-16 using the CC. (32 rows total)

Rep last 32 rows 7 more times (or until blanket measures desired length), maintaining the color sequence as established.

Last 16 rows: Rep Rows 1-16.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in.

Block lightly.

7 Comments

• Karen Cooper October 12, 2013 at 6:19 pm

  Very pretty. How long does it take to make something like this?
• Ro October 15, 2013 at 5:58 am

  I love the colors and the pattern of this, thank you.
• Pat October 21, 2013 at 6:34 pm

  Love this design.
  Pat
• Isela October 24, 2013 at 9:45 pm

  About 3 weeks.
• amanda November 30, 2013 at 11:00 pm

  I just purchased the Afghan loom, however am having a hard time figuring out the tension. I started out loose and it ends up super tight with the flat stitch. what can I do to fix the tension?
• Isela December 17, 2013 at 5:17 pm

  I would suggest just practicing with it. After awhile, your tension will even out and then you can begin an actual blanket. It will take a few times on the loom to get used to it.
• Lily January 14, 2014 at 7:25 pm

  I have trouble with the tension as well. I have started a blanket I think four times now, both with the e-wrap cast on and the crochet cast on. I just cannot get the tension right on the inner curves with the flat stitch; it’s always too tight by the fifth or sixth row.

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Simple Mitered Square Blanket

Summer is all about portable projects! This blanket is worked in portable squares that you can take with you anywhere. You can knit a square in about 1-1/2 hours!

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2, 50 pegs.
Yarn: Approx 1200 yards of worted weight yarn.  Knit Picks Swish in Peapod (5 skeins) and Amythest Heather (6) was used in sample.
Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size 5.5

Gauge: 9 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches in garter stitch.
Each square is approximately 5.5 inches x 5.5 inches.

Pattern notes
Start with A color, then switch colors every four rows. Do not cut yarns, simply carry them along the side when not in use.

Abbreviations
K=knit stitch
P=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
BO=Bind off

INSTRUCTIONS

Mitered Square Instructions
(Make 36)

With MC, Cast on 50 sts, prepare to knit a flat panel.
Row 1: (Going clockwise/from right to left). K23, k2tog, k2tog, k23. Slide the slider inwards.
Row 2: p to the end of the row
Row 3: k22, k2tog, k2tog, k22. Slide the slider inwards.
Row 4: p to the end of the row.
Join CC, and continue with the pattern.
Continue repeating these last two rows, decreasing two stitches on every ODD row, until you have 2 sts left on the knitting loom.  (On every ODD row, the numbers will go down from k22, k21, k20, k19, k18, k17, k16, k15, k14, k13, k12, k11, k10, k9, k8, k7, k6, k5, k4, k3, k2, k1).
Last row: k2tog.
Bind off leaving a 10 inch yarn tail (used for seaming the squares together).

FINISHING
Block all the squares prior to seaming.
Use the layout below to arrange your squares prior to seaming. Use the mattress stitch to seam the squares to each other.
Weave all ends in.

Border
Stabilize the blanket by crochet a single crochet border around the blanket.

6 Comments

• Lonnie Kendall July 31, 2013 at 11:22 pm

  Great work. This is a striking afghan. ???? lmk
• Caren August 5, 2013 at 9:47 pm

  Very striking indeed …
  For charity knitted squares…25cmx25cm can this be done on on a round loom ? Trying to find a pattern for looming … As all are knitted with straight needles .
• Nenette de Lange August 6, 2013 at 6:11 am

  Wow this looks amazing. I’m definitely going to try this.
• Laurie October 12, 2013 at 7:25 pm

  I really wish there was a short video for this. I really want to try it!
• Sylvia crane January 23, 2014 at 12:04 am

  I really like the look of this blanket, but I have only just purchased an all in one loom, I really don’t understand the instructions. I have not used a loom before and cannot find out how to set up the loom to make these mitred squares
• Episode 1304 - No Needle Knits - Knitting Daily TV Series 1300 - Blogs - Knitting Daily August 22, 2014 at 6:47 pm

  […] for completing a Mitered Square afghan like the one featured on the show are here and are included in Isela Phelps’ book, Loom Knitting Afghans: 20 Simple & Snuggly […]

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