**Pattern updated Jan 9, 2017 (specifically Row 5).
The stitch we’ll be working up this month is wonderful for its simple symmetry and lines. The bold repeating herringbone pattern makes this a wonderful stitch for deep texture and coziness! Worked in this winter white, it makes me think of snow clad forest branches. I can visualize this being used for hats, sweaters, scarves, socks, you name it! This would also work beautifully as a companion to the smaller herringbone published in the very first Stitchology column as interesting play of texture in any project.
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. 😉 To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here and here.
Large Herringbone Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight Wool (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)
To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16 sts—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
wy: working yarn
BO: bind off
Repeating Pattern Rows
Row 1: [k2, p2] rep twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1.
Row 2: p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1.
Row 3: k1, p1, k2, p5, p2, k2, p1.
Row 4: k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1. k2, p2, k3.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. 😉
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p37.
Row 2: k37.
Row 3: p37.
Row 4: k37.
Row 5: p2, [k2, p2] twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2.
Row 6: k3, *p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1 rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 7: p2, *k1, p1, k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 8: *k5, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.
Rows 9-56: rep Rows 5-8.
Rows 57-59: rep Rows 5-7.
Row 60: k37.
Row 61: p37.
Row 62: k37.
Row 63: p37.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! 🙂
17 thoughts on “Stitchology 28: Large Herringbone”
Looking at some of the past stitches in this series, I can see these knitting up as a wonderful sampler afghan. I am going to get started, so I can have a lovely afghan at the end of the year! This one looks great, and I can see myself making scarves, hats, shawls, and more out of it! Thank you!
Oh, that’s wonderful, Ruthie! Thank you so much for commenting and for taking part. I can’t wait to see your afghan! 😀
Do you mean repeat twice or do the stitch pattern one more time? Just repeat?.Not repeat twice.
I am confused
Hi, Ginny 🙂
When you see sts placed inside brackets and then a number after…like twice…then it means to work those sts inside the brackets a total of 2 times. It might say after the brackets: 6 times, etc, but in this case it is only twice.
Once those sts are worked the number of times listed, then you proceed to the next sts in the line of instructions for that row. Does that make better sense? 🙂
Row5 Main pattern row indicates 35 stitches
On the break down after the k3 is there a P2 K2 (stitch row 21,22,23,24) then P2, K1.
Yes, you are correct, Ginny. 🙂 The pattern has been corrected. Thank you…good eye!
Hi,when knitting flat,do I knit from right to left then left to right on the pattern,(row one right to left ,row two from left to right the third right to left and so on?thanks,jacki.
Hello Jacki 🙂
The instructions say: Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs.
The next row would be your beginning row, or Row 1, and would be knit in the opposite direction of the cast on…so right to left. And yes, you would alternate rows when working a flat panel…so for Row 2, you would turn and knit back across the row from left to right, and so on. 🙂
I used Red Heart yarn for this and it turned out 15 inches wide
I have tried to block it
To no avail
How can I correct this.
What did i do wrong
I would try again but am afraid of the same poor result
Hi Ginny 🙂
Well, first of all, in order to properly block something, you need to use yarns with a high natural fiber content. My own squares are knit with a wool or wool blend. Think of it like your own hair: you can get your hair to curl or straighten by using water or heat. This is the way blocking works for knitting. Acrylic just doesn’t have the same properties (it is essentially a plastic) to be able to re-mold itself into new shapes like natural hair/fiber. 😉
But, even if you could block the square, 15″ probably couldn’t be blocked to 8″. Let’s look at some more ideas. .
We need to look at what knit stitch you are using. I pretty much always use a U-stitch, which is in between the gauge of a regular knit stitch and a flat knit stitch. If you try to e-wrap, the stitches will come out way too loose.
If you are using a U-stitch and are still getting a square that is too large, then either you need to knit with a snugger tension, or you will need to adjust the pattern to work with your own gauge. You can decrease the number of pattern repeat stitches that are in between the garter borders, based on the size you have ended up with, to equal something closer to the 8″.
Also, another trick that I always do is to “snap” my stitches into place by pulling the knitting from top to bottom, vertically. When we work our stitches on the loom, they are at their most stretched out point. It helps to put them into their proper shape by giving them a gentle tug. 😉
I was wondering what is the loosest to the tightest knit stitch on the loom
Yes, you have that correct. 🙂 Here is a tutorial and comparison for you to refer to as well:
Thanks a million
If I’m using 96 pegs, how do I continue the pattern after 37?
Hi Shirley 🙂
Well, here is what the pattern says in the Notes:
“For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.”
So, in this case, you might not actually use the 37 count. This is just what I used for the square that includes border pegs and 2 repeats of the 16 stitch pattern. For 96 pegs, if you don’t have any border stitches, you could repeat the 16 pattern stitches 6 times. But if you want to fit in some border stitches, you could take out 1 or 2 of those 6 repeats to create a nice border on each side.
If, on the other hand, you are wanting to use this stitch in the round, then you would simply work the 16 pattern stitches 6 times, and continue onto the following rows of the pattern, no border required.
Does that make sense? 🙂
When you spoke about a what 8×8 and u mentioned the branches and snow. My question is if as we feed our yarn at the end, is there any way that a person could maybe stitch that yarn string or somehow start to add a stitch floss let’s say we’re talkin about that white square and outline maybe or a little more details to the shapes with red embroidery floss for example
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