This is a truly lovely and eye catching design for you to create on your looms! I love the accentuated woven look it provides. My hubby is one who doesn’t usually pay particular attention to the subtleties of my various knitting stitches, but when I showed him this one, he was immediately pleased with the look and said, “Now that’s an interesting stitch!” 🙂 Even though this stitch is a 16 row repeat, once you get the hang of how the rows flow, they can be worked entirely from memory.
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. 😉 To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
4-Stranded Basketweave Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage mellow) *Note: It really helps to use a yarn with a very high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help straighten those long strands.
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
It really helps to use a yarn with a very high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help straighten those long strands.
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work. To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. This stitch pattern will do this in groups of four stitches at a time.
*SWYF Notes: Because this stitch requires slipping 4 pegs at a time, make sure to pull slipped strands taut when knitting the next stitch after the slipped stitches. This will keep the strands from sagging after the square is complete and blocked.
Another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place. Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & all odd numbered rows: k6.
Rows 2, 4, 6, & 8: SWYF-2, k2, SWYF-2.
Rows 10, 12, 14, & 16: k1, SWYF-4, k1.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. 😉
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p38.
Row 2: k38.
Row 3: p38.
Row 4 (and all even rows): k38.
Rows 5, 7, 9, & 11: p3, k1, SWYF-2, k2, *SWYF-4, k2, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-2, k1, p3.
Rows 13, 15, 17, & 19: p3, k2, *SWYF-4, k2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Rows 20-76: repeat Rows 4-19.
Row 77: p38.
Row 78: k38.
Row 79: p38.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement. It helps to squish the square in hot water for a bit, then soak thoroughly. This will help tighten those long strands.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! 🙂
8 thoughts on “Stitchology 25: 4-Stranded Basketweave”
Is there a video showing the SWYF
I understand better that way
I am new to looming
Hi Ginny 🙂 Welcome to the wonderful world of Loom Knitting! I know you’ll get years of enjoyment from this craft.
In answer to your question, if you go to this link for the Bunnies on Parade Stitch, Stitchology 21, you’ll find a tutorial video included.
In this video, the first technique shown is the one for a s2wyif, which is really the same as a SWYF-2. Just follow the first steps, without wrapping the working yarn back behind the pegs a second time to p2. This is for the bunny stitch only. 😉 For the Stranded Basketweave, you would actually continue with 2 more SWYF so that you you have a total of 4 slipped stitches. Then on the following knit stitch, pull that trailing strand very taut, so that it won’t want to sag.
This should get you going…it’s really super simple to do! 🙂 Please feel free to let me know if I can be of any additional help.
is there a way to make this pattern come out more like the needle version? I have noticed that patterns with slip stitches create very large floats when loomed, whereas the floats in the needle version look a lot shorter.
I think the “long floats” created by swyf on a loom is supposed to look this way.
Well, these are pretty long floats to begin with…you are slipping 4 pegs to make them. To make them be snugger, you need to pull the line taut before knitting the next stitch after the float. This helps keep those long lines from sagging too much. Even after doing this, you will still notice a little sag until the square is blocked. This is why this particular stitch is highly recommended to be worked in a wool or high wool content blend, to aid in the blocking process. After this, they should lie flat. 🙂
If you still don’t like the look of the long strands, you could work the same idea with only slipping 3 pegs. This will keep them shorter, with less chance of them being too loose. Of course, the pattern will have to reworked to account for the adjusted peg number in use.
Bethany, I have actually noticed the same thing as Sara. Your pattern “Triple Rib Square”(https://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/4881) looks quite different than if it was knitted on needles(http://www.knitca.com/slipstitch14). I think it must just be due to the pegs stretching the stitches so much.
You are correct, Brynn. The simple nature of loom knitting has the stitches being worked at their most stretched out position. This makes the slipped stitches stretch across the already stretched out stitches. When you are doing the same thing on needles, the slipped stitches are simply carried around the yarn of the previous row’s stitches, which as you can imagine, produces a tighter float. There’s not much to be done to make them look any similar…this is just one of those things where the differences show when forming the stitches on pegs in a line, rather than on two sticks. 😉
Thank you Bethany for the explanation 🙂
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