*Updated pattern (specifically Row 15) and charts 4/8/15.
This month Skagit Valley, WA, a length of lovely farmlands surrounded by both mountains and the northern islands of the Puget Sound… or in other words, where I call home… is blooming with the vibrant colors of hundreds of different varieties of tulips in a display that rivals even those found in Holland! The brilliant swaths of color across the landscape are truly breathtaking and are the official signal that spring has definitely arrived in Washington. April’s stitch is in honor of this gorgeous time of year!
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. 😉 To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Tulip Fields Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in banane) *Note: Because this pattern requires some definite blocking, a wool yarn is highly recommended. 😉
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins/pad)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping!
Special Stitch Instructions
*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.
There are three ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and a Knit 3 Together (k3tog), a decrease that creates an eyelet on either side. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:
[k2tog, yo]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the k2tog peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.
[yo, ssk]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the ssk peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.
[yo, k3tog, yo]: (As seen in Row 17 of the pattern) Worked from right to left. Move the loops from the yo pegs to the k3tog peg. Carry the WY loosely across the first empty yo peg, then work all 3 loops as 1 on the k3tog peg. Carry the WY loosely across the front of the next empty yo peg and work the next peg in line as the pattern dictates.
k2tog/ssk by itself: Since a k2tog or an ssk are a decreases, in order to keep the same number of pegs being used in a row, there has to be a corresponding yo, but the two don’t necessarily have to be right next to each other. When the k2tog/ssk and yo are separated by other pegs, you’ll need to set up the stitches before working that part of the row. Let’s look at Row 7 peg by peg as an example:
“Row 7: p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3”
Worked from right to left:
- Pegs 1-3: purl
- *Move the loop from peg 5 to peg 4.
- Move the loop from peg 6 to peg 5.
- Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 4, knit peg 5.
- Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 6.
- Pegs 7-9: knit
- Move the loop from peg 11 to peg 12.
- Move the loop from peg 10 to peg 11.
- Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 10, knit peg 11.
- Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 12.
- Pegs 13-17: purl
- Repeat from * to peg 40.
- Pegs 41-43: purl.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. 😉
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 43 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Main Pattern Rows
Row 1: p43
Row 2: k43
Row 3: p43
Row 4: k1, p4, *k5, p9, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p4, k1
Row 5: *p4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p3, repeat from * 2 times, p1
Row 6: k1, p3, *k7, p7, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1
Row 7: p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3
Row 8: k1, p2, *k9, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 9: *p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, p1, repeat from * to 2 times, p1
Row 10: k1, p1, *k11, p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1
Row 11: p1, *k2tog, k3, yo, k3, yo, k3, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times
Row 12: k14, p1, k13, p1, k14
Row 13: p1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k2, p1, repeat from * 2 times
Row 14: k1, *k3, p1, k5, p1, k3, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 15: p1, *k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, repeat from * 2 times
Row 16: k1. *k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 17: p1, *k2tog, yo, p3, yo, k3tog, yo, p3, yo, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times
Row 18: k2, *p5, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 19: p43
Row 20: k43
Row 21: p43
Rows 22-57: repeat Rows 4-21 two more times.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″