Summer Headbands

Anchor_Headband2blogTwo stylish headbands to keep your hair in place  while you are out and about enjoying the summer.

The first one is the Anchor’s Away Headband,  a great beginner lace project. It introduces the basics of moving stitches to different pegs to create eyelets that give lace its open effect. The Lulu Headband is a fantastic, quick project that will add a touch of intricacy without its complications.

Anchor’s Away Headband

A lovely headband that will introduce you to beginning lace. 

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2, 19 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 70 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Amythest Heather.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles size US 5, crochet hook size H.

Other: 1 small buttons

Size: 4” wide x 17” long

Gauge: 9 sts x 15 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap peg on the row that calls to YO, on the next row when you need to knit the stitch, undo the ewrap and lay the yarn flat in front of the peg.

Pattern note: Headband is worked in two parts, half and half, then joined at the center.

INSTRUCTIONSAnchors Away Back small
(make 2)

Leave a 20 inch beginning yarn tail to use for the button loop.

Cast on 19 sts, work a flat panel.

Row 1: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 3: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 4: sl1, p to the end of row.

*Row 5: sl1, k2, yo, k5, CDD, k5, yo, k3.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7, from peg 5 to 6, from peg 4 to 5. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13, from peg 15 to 14, from peg 16 to 15. Pegs 4 and 16 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 6: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 7: sl1, k3, yo, k4, CDD, k4, yo, k4.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7, from peg 5 to 6. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13, from peg 15 to 14. Pegs 5 and 15 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 8: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 9: sl1, k4, yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k5.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13. Pegs 6 and 14 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 10: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 11: sl1, k5, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k6.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12. Pegs 7 and 13 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 12: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 13: sl1, k6, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k7.Anchors Away small

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11. Pegs 8 and 12 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 14: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 15: sl1, k7, yo, CDD, yo, k8.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Pegs 9 and 11 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 16: sl1, p to the end of the row.*

Repeat from * to *: 5 more times

Place these 19 sts onto one of the double pointed needles, cut yarn leaving a 20 inch yarn tail.

Once both halves of the headband are completed, use the kitchener stitch to join both sides together at the center.

Option: If you prefer not to do a kitchener stitch, bind off the 19 stitches after completing each half. Once completed, use the mattress stitch to join both halves together.

FINISHING

Thread tapestry needle with yarn, at the center point where the two halves were joined, gather it into three small folds, using the tapestry needle, sew the pleat down.

Button loop-using crochet hook and one of the beginning yarn tails, single crochet along the triangle  until you reach the pointed edge, chain 4 at the point to create the button loop, then continue single crochet along to the end of the triangle point.

Button—on the opposite side, at the point, secure a small decorative button.

Block to open up the eyelets in the lace.

 

Divider

Lulu HeadbandGreen Headband2blog

A lovely and easy headband that displays a center gathered with icords.

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2, 12 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 60 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Green Tea Heather.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size H.

Other: 2 small buttons

Size: 2.25” wide x 17” long

Gauge: 9 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remainGreen Headband3blog

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 12 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 3: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 4: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 5: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Row 6: sl1, p1, k8, p2.

Rep Rows 5 and 6: until you reach Row 60.

From this point on, we will be working on two pegs at a time to create the icords for the center.

Icord 1: Over the first two pegs (pegs 1 and 2), work a 2 st icord that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 3.

Icord 2: Work a 2 st icord over peg 3 and 4 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 5.

Icord 3: Work a 2 st icord over peg 5 and 6 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 7.

Icord 4: Work a 2 st icord over peg 7 and 8 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 9.

Icord 5: Work a 2 st icord over peg 9 and 10 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 11.

Icord 6: Work a 2 st icord over peg 11 and 12 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 1.

With yarn back at peg 1, we are ready to begin working over all 12 sts again.

Next row (over all 12 pegs): sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p1, k8, p2

Rep last two rows 25 more times (a total of 52 rows).

Next row: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 20 inch yarn tail for the button loops.

Button Loops

Using the crochet hook and the yarn tail from the BO edge, single crochet 3sts, work 4 chains, single crochet 2 sts, work 4 chains, single crochet 3sts. Bind off.

On the cast on edge, secure two buttons so they line up with the button loops

FINISHING

Weave in all the yarn tail ends from the icords.

Block lightly.

Gently gather all 6 icords at the center. Using tapestry needle and yarn, secure all 6 icords together at the center. Weave ends in.

Optional: add a decorative bead to the center of the headband.

 

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