Feb 15, 2016

Loom FAQs: How Are Hat Brims Made?

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Hats are one of the first things people learn when learning to loom knit.  But the questions abound.  How do I made a brim?  How do I keep it from rolling up?  How many ways are there to make brims?

Glad you asked!  There are various ways to make brims on hats depending on what kind of look you are wanting.

Rolled Brim

Curly_cute_hat_medium

 

These are fun brims and makes an easy hat since all knit will roll up naturally.

How to work the rolled brim:

Cast on and knit all the rows after the cast on for approximately 3 inches.  It doesn’t matter which version of the knit stitch you use or the type of cast on you use.  All knits will curl.

Continue working the hat in whatever stitch pattern you wish and let the brim roll up on it’s own.

 

 

 

No Brim

cabled_hatscarf__80054.1419468139.1280.1280

 

These hats are worked in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl.  The entire hat is worked in the same stitch pattern for the entire length so that there isn’t a brim at the bottom.

How to work the no brim:

Cast on and work the entire hat in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl like ribbing, garter stitch, basket weave, seed stitch, moss stitch, etc.

 

 

 

Turned Up Brim

cable_hat turned up brim

 

Hats with turned up brims are just worked longer than the desired length so that the bottom may be turned up for the brim.  Rib stitch is common for these types of brims.

How to work a turned up brim:

Cast on and work the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired for twice the length of the brim.

Continue working the remainder of the hat in whatever other stitch desired.

 

 

 

Folded Brim

paving stones

 

This is usually the first type of brim most loom knitters learn since it can be worked with all knit such as e-wrap and won’t curl.  This brim is double the thickness of the fabric since the work is folded up and attached to the rest of the hat as you go.

How to work the folded brim:

All knits or any stitch pattern can be used.  Use the e-wrap cast on and work until the length is twice that desired for the brim.

Bring the cast on edge back up and place on the pegs so that the brim is folded up on the inside of the loom.  There will be 2 loops on each peg.

Knit the bottom loop over the top loop and continue working the remainder of the hat.

Ribbed/Garter/Other Stitch Pattern Brims

TweedCableBeanie Rib Brim

 

These brims are just worked in whichever stitch pattern desired that is different from the rest of the hat.

While rib and garter are the most common stitch patterns to use for brims, any stitch pattern that doesn’t curl may be used.

How to work a stitch pattern brim:

Cast on and work the desired length of the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired.

Then continue with the remainder of the hat in another stitch pattern.

 

 

 

Brims can be just as varied as types of hats.  A different brim will change the look of a hat as well.  Each person prefers something different which is what makes life so varied and interesting.

Here’s to all the brims and variations that make our lives complete!  Happy loom knitting!

6 Comments

  • Great article. As always I learn some thing very useful and explained very well

  • how do you get lattice look like on the rainbow hat with black ? or ive seen some with hearts and different designs

  • Katie Leeck, if you click on the picture, it will take you to the free pattern.

  • thanks Renita

  • I was just coming to this site to ask this very question! How would I do a brim in a different size than the hat itself? Using the A.I.O loom, and let’s say the brim in a 60 peg, but the hat itself in an 80 peg. Would I just add a M 1 on each round 5 pegs each side of the short side?

  • This is a very great concise article. Thank you for writing it. I always look forward to your articles. Hats were always frustrating for me. Things were looking awesome and after all that work it would eventually start to curl. I finally conquered it and I have made many cute hats for my grandkids. Easter is just around the corner. Maybe I’ll make the hats out of cotton.

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Feb 12, 2016

Crayon Box Throw (double knit)

Design by Jacquelyn Darragh

Work with the Ribbing stitch in this fun, colorful throw. The bright colors and bold stripes make this a simple knit favorite and with the double knit, double the warmth!

throw_crayon_box

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight, 100% Acrylic, 355 yards per skein. Machine washable and dryable Colors: Grape, 2 skeins. Pink, Tropical Pink, Yellow, Peacock Blue, 1 skein each. Neon Green, I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight , 255 yards per skein. 1 skein

Stitches: Rib Stitch and Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 5 stitches X 6 rows = 2 inches

 Size: 28 x 34 inches

Instructionscrayonbox_blanket2

Use two strands of yarn as one, throughout the making of this throw. When you are knitting a solid color, for example, grape rib stitch, just use both ends of the skein of yarn, pulling one strand from the center and one strand from the outside. When using two different colors together, it will be much easier if you use one strand of each pulling from the center of the skein, which will keep them from tangling.

With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. Always tie on new color at 2nd stitch so that knots do not show from outer edge.

Cast on: 64 stitches in Stockinette stitch with Grape yarn. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Note: Complete throw is worked in Rib Stitch until you come to the bind off row.

Rib Stitch: After the cast on, start first row by wrapping the top 1st peg and bring down to the bottom 3rd peg. You are skipping peg 1 and 2 on lower board. Your yarn is at an angle. Now go back up to top board to 3rd peg and wrap. Take yarn down to lower 5th peg. Continue wrapping every other peg at this angle till you get to the end of your stitches. To return, take yarn around end of pegs to wrap the top last peg. Continue by wrapping all the empty pegs. You will see that you are going back with peg 1 to 3 again and working at the opposite angle. This is what creates the ribs. It is correct that the last pegs are wrapped consecutively. Hook over all pegs. Repeat for each row according to color design.

Knit 5 rows Grape yarn. Tie on Lime yarn. Do not cut the Grape, but carry it in along with Lime yarn.

Knit 1 row in Lime. Cut Lime and knot.

Knit 3 rows Grape. Tie in Lime yarn. Cut grape and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut the one strand of yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Blue yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime in rib. Cut and tie off the Lime yarn. Tie on the other end of the Blue yarn so that you now have both strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Cut the blue yarn and tie off. Tie on Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on the Grape yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on two strands of the Pink yarn.

Knit 4 rows in Pink.   Cut one strand of Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Tropical Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink rib. Cut and tie off the Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Tropical Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut both strands of yarn and tie off. Tie on 2 strands of Grape yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Lime.

Knit 5 rows of Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut one strand of Tropical Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein, and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off the Tropical Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Pink.

Knit 4 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on the Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on two strands of the Blue yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut one strand of blue yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Lime yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime. Cut and tie off the Blue yarn. Tie on the other end of the Lime yarn, so that you now have both strands of Lime.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 3 rows in Grape. Do not cut grape yarn but let it carry through. Tie on 2 strands of Lime and knit one row of Lime. Cut and tie off Lime yarn.

Knit 5 rows in Grape.

Knit 1 row in Grape Stockinette stitch.

Bind off the board remembering that you are still treating 2 strands as one, so each side of the board in which you are doing the crochet bind off, will have two loops. Weave in ends.

Bind off the anchor yarn treating 2 strands as one. Lift two loops over two loops. Weave in ends.

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Feb 8, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Cotton Love

Design by Jenny Stark

Love is in the air this month and hearts in all colors, shapes, and mediums abound.  Get ‘cotton love’ with these adorable double-knit cotton hearts.  Because they work up so quickly, you’ll have time to make one for all of the sweethearts in your life.

hearts_jenny

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: 100 % cotton yarn in worsted weight.  Peaches & Crème and Sugar n Cream cotton yarns were used in the samples.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors.

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: Approximately 5.5” x 5.75”

Abbreviations:

DZ st – Duplicate Zigzag Stitch

l – left

r – right

 

Techniques2016-02-10 14.06.49

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3386

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3387

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

 

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

*This project is double knit.  This means that the project will be worked back and forth, using the upper and lower board of the loom.  Lower board = the rail and pegs closest to you.  Upper board = the rail and pegs farther from you.  The board will not be rotated, so the lower board and the upper board will not change.  For this project, disregard the 2 pegs at each end of the knitting loom.  They are not included in the peg counts for this design.  So, peg one of the lower board would be the first peg on the left hand side of the rail closest to you.

*Work with 2 strands of yarn held together as one throughout this project.

 

Cast On

Make a slip knot and place it on the 7th peg of the lower board.

Wrap the 8th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3373

Wrap the 8th peg on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3374

Wrap the 9th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3375

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Cast on is now complete.

Bottom of the Heart

Increase #1:

Wrap peg 7 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3379

Wrap peg 6 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3380

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #2:

Wrap peg 9 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3382

Wrap peg 10 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3383

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #3:

Wrap peg 6 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 5 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #4:

Wrap peg 10 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 11 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #5:

Wrap peg 5 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 4 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #6:

Wrap peg 11 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 12 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #7:

Wrap peg 4 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 3 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #8:

Wrap peg 12 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 13 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #9:

Wrap peg 3 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 2 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #10:

Wrap peg 13 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 14 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase # 11:

Wrap peg 2 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 1 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

 

Left Curve

Move the stitch from peg 7 on the lower board to peg 6 on the lower board.

IMG_3388

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 6 of the lower board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board to peg 2 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the upper board to peg 3 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the lower board to peg 3 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the upper board to peg 4 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the lower board to peg 4 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the upper board to peg 5 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the lower board to peg 5 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the upper board to peg 6 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the lower board to peg 6 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the upper board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 6 of the lower board and peg 7 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the lower board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 7 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 7 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The left curve is now bound off.

Right Curve

Move the stitch from peg 8 on the upper board to peg 9 on the upper board.

Working with 2 strands held together as one, reattach the yarn at the right hand side of the loom, beginning at peg 13 of the lower board.

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 9 of the upper board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the lower board to peg 12 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 14 of the upper board to peg 13 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the lower board to peg 11 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the upper board to peg 12 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the lower board to peg 10 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the upper board to peg 11 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the lower board to peg 9 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the upper board to peg 10 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 9 of the lower board to peg 8 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the upper board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 8 of the lower board and peg 9 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 8 of the lower board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 9 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 9 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The right curve is now bound off.

Weave in all yarn ends.

So quick, so fun, make a ton of cotton loves!

Happy

Heart

Day!

 

2 Comments

  • What a darling idea, Jenny! I’m lovin ‘it! I l really love your use of double knit for a wash cloth…I bet it has wonderful squish! :D

  • This is really hard to figure out without some short tutorials. ?

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Feb 5, 2016

‘Back to Basics’ Blanket (double knit)

A GREAT PATTERN FOR BEGINNERS!!  …an introduction to double knit. No matter how fierce the winter gets, this lovely throw will keep you warm and cozy. Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

blanket_gradient2

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool. 137 yards per skein. Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry. Colors: Camel Heather (Camel), 3 skeins, White, 3 skeins, and Fjord Heather (Blue), 2 skeins

Stitches: Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 2 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Size: 34 x 50 inches

change_color1

 

Basic Notes: With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. All stitches are Stockinette. Check out chart below.

To keep side edges even and smooth, tie on your new yarns at 2nd stitch between the rows of pegs. This will keep the knots away from the edge and hidden from the finished throw. When cutting each yarn, leave a yarn tail approximately 3” that will lay flat between the 2 rows of pegs.

Cast on row will be the same as one row of stockinette stitch. You start on Left side of loom on top peg #1 with a slip knot; bring yarn down to peg #2 on lower board. Wrap yarn around, and continue back up to peg # 3 on top board. Continue weaving the yarn around every other peg, alternating from one board to the other, to end. Wrap around the end at last peg. Return back to beginning by wrapping all the pegs that were skipped on first pass. Now all the pegs for this project will be wrapped.

Lay a piece of yarn across the stitches with the yarn ends dangling at each end of loom. This is referred to as the anchor yarn or waste yarn. It is usually removed after the knitting is complete. Now, wrap all the pegs again just as before so that you have 2 loops on each peg. You are ready to hook over using the knit hook. This means to lift the bottom loop, on each peg over the top loop, and into the center of the loom. Do this to all pegs, so that they have only one wrap of yarn. Your stitches are now cast on and you are ready to work in stockinette stitch.

The stockinette stitch produces a smooth knit, and is usually the first stitch learned in double knitting. It is the same process as casting on. Once you wrap all pegs again, hook over. This completes one row of stockinette stitch. Continue this stitch with the color changes for the entire afghan.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 64 stitches with Camel yarn in Stockinette stitch. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Knit 7 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 7 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 8 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 2 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 8 rows in Camel.

Bind Off your stitches with a loose crochet bind off.

Bind Off at anchor yarn with loose crochet bind off.

Now that the blanket is complete, finish off with this method. Place blanket in pot or sink with hot water for 4 minutes. Allow yarn to fully soak up all the water. Remove from sink and gently roll in a full size towel or two to absorb as much of the water as possible. Place in your dryer for five minutes on medium heat to fluff and soften the wool. Block to specified size and allow to air dry until fully dry. Enjoy your lovely throw!

backtobasics_chart

 

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Feb 1, 2016

Stitchology 18 : Hugs & Kisses

 

XOXOX, a symbol for hugs and kisses, is a term used for expressing sincerity, faith, love, or good friendship at the end of a written letter, email, or text message.  This practice has been in use clear back into the Middle Ages. Since most of the common people could not read or write, the ‘X’ was placed on documents, and a kiss was placed over it as a show of their sincerity.  The ‘o’ physically resembles a hug, and has joined the ‘X’ near signatures as a perfect pair to express love and friendship.  With Valentine’s Day coming up this month, it’s a perfect time to learn this stitch. :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Hugs & Kisses Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10 for repeats of the same column, or 20 for repeats of the 2 alternating columns.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap…except in the row before working the cables, as noted below.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 4 pegs in the correct order.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to e-wrap the knit stitches that sit right in line with the cable pegs in the row before the cable row to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. Simply untwist the e-wrap loops when creating the cables.

[2/2RC]:  Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loops from the 2 right pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right pegs first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the right.
  • Knit the 2 stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty left pegs and knit them.  Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

[2/2LC]: Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the 2 left pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the left.
  • Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty right pegs and knit them. Knit the 2 stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

 

Chart-Key-Hugs & Kisses

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Rows 1 & 2:  p1, k8, p2, k8, p1.

(**Note: if you need extra room to cross those cable stitches, you can read Row 2 (and all rows right before a cable row) as: p1, ew8, p2, ew8, p1. Just make sure to untwist the e-wraps while working the cables.)

Row 3: p1, 2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p1.

Rows 4-6: rep Row 1.

Row 7: rep Row 3.

Rows 8-10: rep Row 1.

Row 11: p1, 2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p1.

Rows 12-14: rep Row 1.

Row 15: rep Row 11.

Row 16: rep Row 1.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Hugs n Kisses angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Rows 1-4: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5:  k2, p1, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p1, k2.

Row 6: p3, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p3.

hugs n kisses close(**Note: the k8’s can be e-wraps here…see notes above.)

Row 7:  k2, p1, *2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Row 8: rep Row 6.  (**Use regular knits/u-stitches here.)

Row 9: rep Row 5.

Row 10: rep Row 6. (**The k8’s can be e-wraps…see notes above.)

Row 11: rep Row 7.

Rows 12-14: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 15: k2, p1, *2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Rows 16-18: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 19: rep Row 15.

Row 20: rep Row 8.

Row 21-60: Repeat Rows 5-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-64: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Wonderful!

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Jan 30, 2016

Very Berry Bonnet

 

Very Berry Bonnet side angle b

 

Designed by Bethany A Dailey

**Edited 2/5/16 to add a note to Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22.

**Edited 2/10/16 Brim section to correct remaining number of loops on each long side of the loom to 34 (68 total).

A hat to keep you cozy warm with a vibrantly whimsical flair! This design is unique in that it is styled to be worked from the crown down to create those playful points at the ears.

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom, 92 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 395 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample used Universal Yarn Classic Shades (1 skein in Campfire used for main color) 197 yds/180 m., and Patons Classic Wool Worsted (1 skein in Plum Heather used for contast color) 210 yds/192 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter.

Gauge: 13 sts x 33 rows= 4 inches (in pattern, using U-Stitch)

Finished Measurements: Circumference: 20″, Length from crown to middle brim: 10″ (ear points add 3”)

Skills Needed: Knit/U-stitch, Purl, Drawstring CO, Half Hitch CO (or CO of your choice), and Basic BO, braiding and pompom making.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
MC: main color
CC: contrast color
Rnd(s): round(s)
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
HHCO: half hitch cast on
S1: slip one/skip one
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

For the sample, all knit stitches were made using the U-stitch. Work whichever type of knit stitch helps you achieve the proper gauge.

Drawstring CO tutorial

Half Hitch CO tutorial

Very Berry Bonnet BInstructions

Set loom to work in the round using 68 pegs, which are centered on the loom. Peg #1 should be at a corner (where the slider and long side meet). Using the Main Color, drawstring cast on to 68 pegs.

Rnds 1-6: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22: (*Note: you will be increasing the number of pegs used by 4, at each corner of the pegs currently being used.) HHCO to corner peg just before peg 1 (this will be the new peg #1), k all pegs on 1st long side of loom to 2nd corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on 2nd long side of loom to 4th corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider.

Rnds 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21: knit all, including newly CO pegs. Move sliders gradually outward to accommodate new sts. (After Rnd 22, there will be 92 pegs filled.)

Rnds 23-28: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 29-34: * p2, k2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 35-70: rep Rnds 23-34 a total of 3 times.

Prepare to work in a flat panel using only 12 pegs at each end of the loom. (Pegs 4-1, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 92-90 on first end and pegs 39-41, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 47-50.)

Work the first section of 12 pegs, keeping in the same pattern as before, while decreasing at the center with a k2tog every other row. Expect the decreasing to cause there to be 3 knits or 3 purls together at the center occasionally. When there is only one loop left, cut at 10” for seaming and pull through loop. Repeat procedure with the other side’s 12 pegs.

Brim

Very Berry Bonnet flatThere will now be 34 loops remaining on each long side of the loom (68 total). Prepare to CO to work in as a flat panel in the following method:

Using the Contrast Color, and leaving a 10” tail for seaming later, CO to 92 pegs, centering them on the loom so that the beginning CO loop is at the center of the front long side of the loom. Work all the way around the loom and back to the 2nd center peg of the front long side of the loom. The original loops of this front long side of the loom will NOT be worked in the following rows. These pegs are simply being borrowed temporarily— just work the rows while ignoring those bottom loops. Only the back long side original loops will be worked into the row.

Row 1: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to back long side with previous sts. Work these sts following the same ribbing pattern, but with 2 loops worked as one (the original loops and the newly CO loops). After these 30 sts are worked, continue around the loom to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2: s1, *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 3: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 4-16: rep Rows 2 & 3.

Rows 17-32: rep Rows 2 & 3, but BO the first 2 sts of each row.

Loosely Basic BO remaining 60 sts. Leave a 14” tail for seaming.

Repeat the same Brim Instructions, but CO starting at the center of the BACK long side, working the original loops from the FRONT long side into the first row.

Finishing

Very Berry Bonnet stitching Very Berry Bonnet- stitching braidCinch the Drawstring CO by pulling carefully but firmly on the yarn tail until the sts are as snug as they will go. Pull tail to inside of hat and stitch around circle to close completely. Knot securely.

Using the long tails of the MC, neatly stitch the edges of the brim to the MC points on each side of the hat.

Create 2 braids by wrapping both the MC and the CC around the loom 6 times. Cut the loops at each end. This will provide 2 sections of 12 strands of yarn. Tie each section with an overhand knot at the top. Divide the sections into 3 groups of 4 strands and braid them together until 4” remain unbraided at the bottom. Secure with another overhand knot.

Pinch the top knot of one of the braids between the back side’s brim at the point section. Take the front side’s brim point and wrap around the back side’s to seal the braid inside. Using the long tails of the CC, stitch the braid and corner flaps securely in place, keeping edges even and tidy. Repeat on the other side. A few hidden stitches can be tucked into the back brim to keep it folded upwards.

Create three pompoms using both the MC and the CC yarns. Secure onto place at the top of the hat, and at the ends of each braid. The overhand knot at the bottom of the braid serves as a place to tie the pompoms to so that they have a better hold.

Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

8 Comments

  • Can’t wait to get started on this! We are supposed to get up to 14 inches of snow today and tomorrow so I got some great yarn to use! I’m sure I’ll have tons of questions but it looks like an awesome pattern. Thanks!

  • Wow! This bonnet is the perfect project for 14 inches of snow! :D I will be happy to answer any questions you may have, no worries. ;)

    Have fun, Lisa…both with the snow *and* the looming!

  • OK, I’ve done CO and first 6 rows. Struggling with 7. HHCO to just before peg 1 does that mean go all the way around using HHCO? I’m working counterclockwise so maybe that makes a difference?do I need to start over and work clockwise? Told you I would need help! Thanks!

  • Yes, this row was a tad tricky to explain. All you are doing is adding 4 extra pegs, located at each corner of the pegs you are currently using.

    So, in answer to your question…no, you don’t CO all the way around the loom…just *add* the corner peg next to peg #1 before working your way to the next corner peg in line, going the same direction as you have been the whole time. You will then add a peg here too (at the 2nd corner)…and so on, for a total of 4 added pegs, each of these with a HHCO loop. Is that better? :)

  • Thank you! It makes total sense now and I’m on row 12!

  • Yay! Look at you go! :D

    Thank you for your question, as it helped me to know how to word it better. Good feedback is priceless! :)

  • Love the pattern but I must be missing something. After I finished with the first color and am starting the brim I somehow have 34 loops on each side and not 30. Could you please explain what I am doing wrong.

    Thanks!

  • Hi Kristen! :)

    You are exactly correct. Good catch! I have updated the pattern accordingly. Thank you so much for letting me know.

    I can’t wait to see your bonnet when it’s all done! :D

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Jan 23, 2016

Tweed Beanie

Tweed Beanie Logo

 

 Knitting loom:

All-n-One knitting loom, 80 (88, 96) pegs. 

Yarn: Approx 140-164 yds of worsted weight of merino wool and Donegal tweed blend.  City Tweed in Brocade  was used in sample. 

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle. 

Gauge: 11sts x 13 rows = 2 inches.

Size: Three sizes provided, due to the shrinkage in the fabric from the cables, a higher than normal number of pegs is required. Small (fits head circumference up to 19”), Medium (fits head circumference up to 20”), Large (fits a head circumference up to 21”). 

Abbreviations2016-01-24 08.10.56
Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)

k2tog=knit two stitches together

p2tog=purl two stitches together

c4f=Cable 4 stitches front

c4b=Cable 4 stitches back

c4f: Cable 4 Front (also known as 4-st LC)

Step 1: Take working yarn behind pegs 1 and 2 (you are skipping pegs 1 and 2).

Step 2: Knit pegs 3 and 4, transfer these stitches to cable needle.

Step 3: Take working yarn to the front of peg 1: knit pegs 1 and 2.

Step 4: Transfer the stitches as follows: stitch from peg 2 to peg 4, stitch from peg 1 to peg 3.

Step 5: Transfer the stitches from the cable needle and place them on pegs 1 and 2.

With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.

c4b: Cable 4 Back (also known as 4-st RC)

Step 1: Place stitches from pegs 1 and 2 onto cable needle and hold to the center of the loom.

Step 2: Bring yarn in front of peg 3, knit pegs 3 and 4.

Step 3: Transfer the stitches just worked as follows: Stitch from peg 3 to peg 1, stitch from peg 4 to peg 2.

Step 4: Transfer stitches from cable needle to pegs 3 and 4. Knit pegs 3 and 4.

With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS2016-01-24 08.05.00

Set knitting loom to the desired number of pegs 80 (88, 96) pegs.

CO 80 (88, 96) sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 10: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: *k2, c4f, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 13: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14: *c4b, k2, p2; rep from * to the end rnd.

Rep Rnds 11-Rnd 14: until hat measures approx 7 (7.5, 8) inches from cast on edge.

Next rnd: Remove the stitches off the pegs and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Re-set knitting loom to the following peg configuration 40 (44, 48). Place stitches back on the knitting loom, 2 loops per peg. Work the row as follows: *k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

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Jan 18, 2016

Loom FAQs: What Yarn Is The Best Value?

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Money has been on my mind lately.  Or rather the lack of it in my life.  I know I am not alone in that.  What with the Powerball jackpot at a record high, the U.S. 1894-S Barber dime selling for almost $2 million, and bills needing to be paid, it’s not a wonder that money is always on everyone’s minds.

Unfortunately, the love of all our lives is not free.  No…  Not talking about Adam Levine or Idris Elba.  Yarn.  Yes.  Yarn.  THAT love of our lives.  How do we know we are getting a great deal if it’s not on clearance?

You have a pattern you want to make.  Don’t want to buy the yarn used in the pattern because it cost way too much.  You are on a yarn budget.  Oh the horror!  Oh!  Here is a yarn that is rather inexpensive per skein/ball!  Wait…  It doesn’t have as much yardage as this other that cost more.  Hmmm…  How do you know that you are getting the best deal with your money?  On just hold on a minute…  Was math just mentioned?  Well not yet technically.  But yes.  It’s math lesson #3.  Now I have mentioned it.

For all of you who claim you have yet to use algebra as an adult, you are wrong again.  Here is more algebra all explained step by step to help you compare yarn prices so you too can get the best deal for that next project.

Yarn selections:

Here are 2 examples of yarn for your next project.

Let’s say the project needs 1100 yards of yarn.

First selection of yarn cost $6.99 per ball and has 150 yards per ball.

Second selection of yarn cost $12.99 (WHOA!) and has 400 yards per ball.

Let’s see which is cheaper for this project.

How do I compare yarn by price per yard?

You only need 3 things to calculate this.  The price of the yarn and the number of yards/meters in the ball.  Yes that’s just 2.  The 3rd thing is the calculator.  Lucky calculators are included on smart phones.  Or you can download one.  Hang on to that calculator.  You will need it later…

All you do is divide the price by the number of yards.  Huh?  Ok, I will break it down for you.

Each letter will represent something.

A = the price of the ball of yarn

B = number of yards or meters in the ball

C = the answer

The equation is as follows:

A / B = C

What does / mean?

/ is the symbol used for divide.

Example:  Lets calculate using the first yarn which cost $6.99 and has 150 yards.  How much is the yarn per yard?

A = the price or 6.99

B = number of yards or 150

Let’s put those numbers into our equation.

6.99 / 150 = .0466

This yarn costs $0.05 per yard.

But the second selection of yarn cost $12.99 but has 400 yards.  Is it cheaper than the first we calculated?  Let’s see.

A = 12.99

B = 400

Using the equation above

12.99 / 400 = .0324

The second yarn cost $0.03 per yard.

The second yarn is cheaper per yard than the first.  Therefore you will need to buy less of the second than the first.

How many balls do I need to buy?

Going by the example, the pattern calls for 1100 yards.  You will just need to divide the amount of yarn needed by the number of yards in the ball.  For this equation, we will use

D = number of yards needed for the pattern

E = number of yards in the ball of yarn you will use

F = number of balls of yarn needed

Now for the equation

D / E = F

Same equation.  Different numbers for a different answer.

Let’s do both examples from before.

The first had 150 yards per ball.

D = number of yards needed or 1100

E = number yards in ball or 150

1100 / 150 = 7.33

Since the answer is over 7, you will need to buy 8 balls in order to have enough.

For the second, it has 400 yards

D = 1100

E = 400

1100 / 400 = 2.75

So you will need to buy only 3 balls of the second yarn.

Which is the better deal?

I suspect you already know which is the better deal, but let’s discuss why.

To see how much total you spend, you will just multiple the cost of the ball by the number of balls.

G = cost per ball

H = number of balls

J = total cost of the yarn for the project

The equation (x means to multiply)

G x H = J

For the first yarn,

G = 6.99 cost per ball

H = 8 balls needed

6.99 x 8 = 55.92

The first yarn will cost you $55.92 for this project.

Now for the second yarn.

G = 12.99

H = 3

12.99 x 3 = 38.97

The second yarn will cost you a total of $38.97.

Wait…  What??

Even though the first yarn was cheaper per ball, the second yarn is the cheaper for the entire project.  You will save $16.97 by buying the more expensive yarn.

What have we learned from this little lesson other than math is still confusing and what on earth did she mean by that??  Hopefully we have learned that just because some yarns cost more than others, we save money by buying the more expensive yarn because it has more yards.  Some don’t.  Some do.  Just be sure to check that label for the yardage before ignoring a pricier yarn.  And never leave your calculator at home!

Never have an empty loom and Happy Knitting!!

3 Comments

  • Thank you for this information! Most of us need some helpful tips!

  • Thank you for the formulas or is that formulae? I forgot my Latin too.

  • Not all costs of WOOL yarn can be calculated simply with math. I own sheep and in no way can I compete with cheap overseas yarn, I’m not talking about the quality of the yarn, but the costs to produce it. I raise and shear my sheep humanely, the hay farmer and shearer make a living wage, and the environment is not negatively impacted. So, my yarn costs twice that from Peru etc. Not complaining (well maybe a little) just trying to shed a little light on the issue. Dye dumped in rivers, shearers that can’t feed their children, and sheep that are mishandled produce wool for 5 bucks a skein.

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Jan 15, 2016

Winter Dawn Beanie

Winter Dawn Beanie Model 2

Winter dawn skies are spectacular to behold with deep blues and the hint of sunshine rays peeking through giving the sky a wonderful purple hue. 

At the start of 2016, our focus is going to be in simple, beginner patterns. These patterns will evolve into more intermediate level by the middle of the year, then tackling some advanced patterns by the end of the year.

Knitting loom: Hat loom, set at large gauge, 40 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 75 yds of super bulky merino wool. Malabrigo Rasta in Abril was used in sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 4sts x 10 rows = 2 inches

Size: Fits adult female | head circumference up to 21″

Abbreviations

Approx=approximately

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Set knitting loom, to large gauge at 40 pegs.

Cast on 40 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-Rnd 6: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 7: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8: *p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 7 and 8: until item measures 7.5 inches from cast on edge (approx 30 rnds).

Next rnd: Move the loop from every “even” peg to its neighbor “odd” peg (from 4 to 3, from 2 to 1, etc). k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

Winter Dawn Beanie 2

5 Comments

  • Such a cute hat! I love the texture. I can’t wait to see what patterns you have in store for us the rest of the year. I just got my All-n-One and I can’t wait to use it.

  • Ditto to Colleen Shuman….
    Thank you so much for all your work Isella ,, this pattern is really cute ! <3

  • So, I am new to loom knitting ( I knit with needles). So, if I am going to purchase 1 loom for these upcoming projects, which one would be the most versatile?

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

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Jan 11, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Luminescence

January slinks along, dragging her cold, gray days along like a dreary cloak- blanketing everything in ashen shades.  She dulls the sun and frosts the air with ice.  Ah, but a closer look yields a secret beauty.  A faint shimmer here, a glittering dusting there – luminescence!  Capture a bit of this luminous beauty with this double knit wreath project.

IMG_3362

Knitting Loom: KB 32 peg loom

Yarn: 130 yards of Buttercream Alpaca Solid in Gray.

80” of a worsted weight yarn in a similar color.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors, glue gun and glue.

Additional Materials: 16” Floracraft Foam Wreath

9 yards of 1 ½ inch wide sheer ribbon in silver (Offray Aria was used for the sample)

1 focal piece/item (6” Silver Satin Bird Clip by Touch of Nature was used for the sample)

any additional embellishments desired (2 Victoria Lynn Pearl Rhinestone Accent Picks were used for the sample)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: approximately 16” in diameter

Abbreviations:

HS st – Half Stockinette Stitch

l – left

r – right

Techniques

Modified Figure 8 Cast-On:  Starting on the left side, place a slip knot on the first peg of the lower board.  Bring the working yarn up to the second peg on the upper board.  Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.

IMG_3341 (800x406)

Take the working yarn down to the third peg on the lower board.  Wrap the peg in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3342 (800x412)

Take the working yarn up to the fourth peg on the upper board.  Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.

IMG_3343 (800x403)

Continue working in this manner until the desired number of peg pairs (stitches) have been wrapped.

IMG_3344 (800x405)

Complete the cast on by wrapping the knitting board in HS st, r-l.  Knit the pegs that have 2 wraps on them.  (This counts as row 1 for this project).

 

          Half Stockinette Stitch:  The Half Stockinette Stitch (HS st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  One peg is skipped between each wrap.  These skipped pegs will remain empty while working in HS st.  Also, in this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

 

Wrapping in HS st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

IMG_3345 (800x438)

 

Wrapping in HS st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

IMG_3346 (800x430)

Work back and forth across the board in HS st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

          Bind Off:  Working yarn should be at the right hand side of the knitting board/loom.  Pick up the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board and move it backward to peg 2 of the upper board, above the stitch on this peg.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.  (This peg will now be empty.)

Move the stitch forward to peg 3 of the lower board, above the stitch on this peg.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Move the stitch backward to peg 4 of the upper board.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Move the stitch forward to peg 5 of the lower board.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Continue working back and forth across the knitting board until the last peg has two stitches on it.  Pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.  Replace this stitch on the peg and gently pull on the working yarn to ease out any excess slack.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 5” length.  With the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the last stitch.  Remove the stitch from the peg and gently pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure the last bound stitch. 

Instructions

Knitted Wreath Covering:

Cast on 7 pairs of pegs using the modified figure 8 cast on method.

Row 1:  Work in HS st, l-r.

Row 2:  Work in HS st, r-l.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until knitted piece measures 50.5 inches in length.  Bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

 

Assembly:

Thread the yarn needle with the worsted weight yarn.  Lay the wreath form down on a flat surface and slip the knitted wreath covering underneath the wreath

IMG_3348 (800x600)

Wrap the knitted wreath covering around the wreath form and begin sewing it in place.  (This will be the back of the wreath, so any seaming method will work.)

IMG_3350 (600x800)

Continue working around the entire wreath, wrapping and seaming the knitted wreath cover in place.  Once the entire wreath has been covered, take a moment to straighten the knitted wreath cover, then seam the ends together.

IMG_3352 (600x800)

Once the ends have been seamed together, weave in the yarn ends and get ready to have a little fun embellishing!

 

Decorate!

Plug in the glue gun so it will be warming up.  Cut two pieces of ribbon:  a 10” length and an 18” length.  Glue one end of the 18” length to the back of the wreath, covering the joining seam of the knitted wreath cover.

IMG_3353 (800x600)

Take the 10” length of ribbon and glue the ends together, creating a loop.

IMG_3354 (800x600)

Feed the 18” length of ribbon through the loop that was just created, then wrap it around the top of the wreath and glue in place on the back of the wreath.

IMG_3355 (600x800)

With the remaining ribbon, create a bow and glue it to the ribbon wrapped at the top center of the wreath.

IMG_3356 (800x600)

Add a focal piece, if desired.

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Add additional embellishments, if desired (ie – floral pins, floral picks, beads, buttons, feathers, twine, ribbon, flowers, etc)

IMG_3360 (600x800)

 

Now, go find the perfect spot to hang your beautiful wreath!

IMG_3369

(ps – not in love with the monochromatic look?  Try this project using your favorite colors)

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Jan 4, 2016

Stitchology 17 : Triple Slip Rib

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Triple Slip Rib side angle

Now that the holidays have passed and all the rush and hurry is behind us, it’s time to work up a stitch on our looms that doesn’t take too much thinking or tricky finger-work to accomplish.  This stitch pattern is just the ticket!  It is a simple 8 row repeat and once you get the hang of them, they can be worked entirely from memory.  The long alternating dashes resemble a nice rustic weave, and results in a fairly thick and sturdy panel.  It would be a perfect stitch for a cowl or scarf, or even an entire blanket!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Triple Slip Rib Square

Triple Slip Rib Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.  This stitch pattern will do this in groups of three stitches at a time.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Triple Slip Rib StitchTriple Slip Rib close

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k1, p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p1, WYIF-3.
Rows 5 & 6: repeat Row 1.
Row 7: repeat Row 4.
Row 8: repeat Row 3.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Triple Slip Rib Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p39.
Row 2: k39.
Row 3: p39.
Row 4: k39.

Triple Slip Rib front angleMain Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, *p2, k1, repeat form * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: p3, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p1, k2.
Row 9 & 10: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 11: p4, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 12: k2, p2, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 13-60: repeat Rows 5-12 6 more times.
Row 61 & 62: repeat Rows 5 & 6.

Finishing Rows

Row 63: p39.
Row 64: k39.
Row 65: p39.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

9 Comments

  • Please we want videos because im biggener

  • Hello Eman :) I’m so glad you’ve joined the wonderful world of loom knitting! We are working on developing video tutorials on some of these stitches. A few of them have been completed and are located at the regular website here: http://knittingboard.com/

    But, let’s see if we can’t get you going on this stitch in the meantime. It is really quite a simple square, I promise! When you are reading the pattern instructions for the square, what exactly is it that you don’t understand so I can help you better??

    Thanks!
    Bethany ~

  • Looks like you can also find the stitch videos on KB’S YouTube Channel here:
    https://www.youtube.com/user/knittingboard/videos

  • Hi Bethany,

    thank you for your great work every month, it’s really appreciated! One question please, would this stitch pattern curl if the border is not used? I would like to use it on an infinity scarf but I am not fond of the border.

    Thanks
    Brunella

  • Oh, thank you so much, Brunella! I appreciate the appreciation, lol! :D

    I believe that since this pattern combines knits and purls fairly evenly, it will lay pretty flat even without the border. It felt nice and sturdy while knitting it up, so I’m pretty sure you’ll be fine. The backside looks like a simple 2 x 1 ribbing, so it would be fine seeing it from both sides as well.

    I’d love to see your scarf when it’s all done! :D
    Bethany~

  • thank you for your reply! I am planning to start shortly.. as soon as I finish at least one WIP!

  • Bethany, I thank you very much for all of the wonderful patterns you create and share with us. I am using the All-in-One Loom to make the Stitchology Squares ( I am so excited to try each and every one, just beautiful!!!). But, I am following the directions, use the cast on you suggest, true knit and purl stitches and a #4 worsted weight yarn. My squares are wider than yours but not 8 inches high so turn out more like a rectangle shape. What am I doing wrong? Sure would appreciate your ideas.

    Thank you,
    Marilyn

  • Hi Marilyn! :) I’m so excited to hear you’ve been following along and making squares with us! The more the merrier, right?? :D

    As for the square not coming out even, blocking really helps with this. If you are using a wool, or a mostly wool blend, blocking should be a snap. The process helps train those fibers to reset into the shape you desire. I like to use a foam pad onto which I have marked an 8 x 8 inch square with a permanent marker…this makes it so easy to stretch the wet square to the proper size.

    Now, if you are consistently on every square coming up short, you may just need to add a couple border garter rows on both the top and bottom. Or if you need to do another repeat of the pattern itself, that would be fine too. Everybody knits at varying gauges, so this may just be something you need to address with added rows. Or…you could add enough rows to make your squares actually squares, then block to a bigger measurement so that they will all be the same, just larger than the original 8 x 8. That’s totally acceptable either way! :)

    I hope this helps you…Happy stitching!

  • Thank you! Those are wonderful suggestions as I plan to make an afghan using all of your different square patterns and I feel so much better knowing there is a way to “remedy” the size/shape of the way mine are turning out. I really appreciate your help Bethany.

    Marilyn

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Dec 25, 2015

Loom Knitting Advent – Mister Quinzee

Loom Knitting Advent, day 25 brings you one last loom knitting surprise: Mister Quinzee, a fun little ‘snowman’ with a hollow core, perfect for storing a little bit of holly-jolly!

Designed by Jenny Stark

Day-25-300x300

Mister Quinzee

A quinzee is a simple shelter made by hollowing out a pile of settled snow.  It is simpler than an igloo, yet it is an effective way to stay warm if you are out in the winter elements for very long.  The instructions for this project won’t help you create a winter shelter, but they will help you create an adorable snowman with a hollow ‘shelter’ for your favorite goodies or trinkets.

IMG_3327 (772x1024)

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom

Yarn: Hat: Red Heart Stellar in Celestial.

Head: Bernat Baby Blanket in White.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle with large eye, scissors, 4” x 4” round paper mache box with lid, LaMode button set #2010, glue gun and hot glue, pencil, blush (optional).

Size: Approximately 7″ tall (excluding pom-pom)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Abbreviations:

K = knit stitch

P = purl stitch

Techniques

Double E-wrap Cast-On:  Wrap the first peg twice.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower wrap past the upper wrap and over the top of the peg.  Repeat this process for each of the remaining pegs.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Basic Bind Off:  Knit the first two pegs.  Move the stitch from the second peg over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  One stitch has now been bound off. Move the stitch from peg 1 to the empty peg.  This is now peg 1.  Knit the next stitch.  Move the stitch that was just knit over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  Continue working in this manner until there is one stitch left. Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail that is at least 4” long.  Wrap the yarn tail around the last peg.  Knit the last stitch over the yarn tail and pull the yarn tail out through the stitch.  Bind off is now complete.

Gathered Bind Off:  Loosely wrap the working yarn in a circle around all of the pegs that have stitches – two times.  This will ensure that the yarn tail is long enough to complete the bind off.  Cut the working yarn, then unwrap the long yarn tail from around the pegs.  Lay the yarn tail below the stitch on peg 1.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  *Lay the yarn tail below the next stitch.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  Repeat from * for all stitches on the loom.  Once all stitches have been bound, remove the knitting from the loom.  Pull on the yarn tail to cinch the opening closed (unless otherwise directed by the pattern being worked).  Bind off is now complete.

Pom-pom:  Lay the yarn across the palm of your hand.  Wrap the yarn around the hand about 20-25 times.  Slide the wraps off of the hand, keeping them pinched together at the center.  Take a separate length of yarn and tie it very tightly around the center of the pom-pom.  Knot it securely.  With scissors, cut the loops at each end of the pom-pom.  Be careful not to cut the center strand that holds the pom-pom together.  Fluff the pom-pom and trim any longer strands, if needed.  Use the yarn ends from the center tie to attach the pom-pom to the project.

Instructions

Loom Set up:

For this project, you will need

  • Two 25 peg rounded loom pieces
  • Two 3 peg connectors
  • 28 pegs

Combine the rounded loom pieces with the connectors to create an oval loom.  Place the pegs in the loom, skipping every other hole.  The loom is now set up to knit in large gauge, in the round.  It should look like this:

IMG_3315 (800x523)

This set up is used throughout the project.  You are now ready to begin knitting.

Hat:

With the Red Heart Stellar, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rounds 1-8:  K2, P2 to the end of the round.

Rounds 9-35:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the hat from the loom using the gathered bind off method.  If desired, create a pom-pom and attach it to the top of the hat.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set hat aside for now.

Head:

With the Bernat Baby Blanket, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

 Rounds 1-20:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the head from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set head aside for now.

Finishing:

Plug in the hot glue gun and let it warm up.  Pick up the round paper mache box.  With the lid on the box, use the pencil to trace a line around the perimeter of the container, just below the lip of the lid.

IMG_3316 (600x800)

Remove the lid from the box and set it aside for a moment.  Slip the knitted head piece onto the box, like a sleeve, lining the bind off edge up with the pencil line on the container.

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Using the hot glue gun, carefully glue the bind off edge of the knitted head sleeve to the paper mache box.

Next, wrap the cast on edge of the knitted head sleeve down around the bottom of the container, gluing it in place with the glue gun.

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Remove the button set from its packaging and glue the buttons to the front of the container.  (I started with the carrot/nose, then added the button eyes above it.)

IMG_3322 (936x1024)

Add blush to Mister Quinzee’s face, if desired.

Fill the paper mache box up with some sort of wonderful, then place the lid back on the container.  Slip the knitted hat on over the lid and pull it down until it rests just above Mister Quinzee’s eyes.  So cute!

Wishing much warmth and happiness to each of you this Winter!

4 Comments

  • I would like to give a a great big applaud to all the designers of this 25 day advent calendar patterns Fantastic job on all the selections used in this project.

  • What a cutie, Jenny!! That face is simply adorable!

  • I’m going through pattern withdrawal! I loved the advent patterns!!! Thank you for providing them!!!!!!!

  • I just wanted to say what a cute pattern and idea to make where you can place homemade cookies or fudge,candies to gift to friends they can eat th goodies then after finished they can use the knitted container for decoration to set out every Christmas and you could use the container and knitted holiday slevees and make like a pumpkin or Turkery , easter bunny, valetine , fourth of July or a birthday cake sleeves for all the different holidays just use our imaginations this would be a awesome gift to share with friends and family love the 25 days of Advent calendar knitted patterns Thank you to all of you came up with all these great knitted patterns .

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Dec 24, 2015

Zippy Foot Pouf

Zippy Foot Pouf  3Loom Knitting Advent, day 24 of brings you a wonderful addition to your home decor: the Zippy Foot Pouf!

Designed by Bethany Dailey

I have always loved the look of those oversized knitted foot poufs that seem to fairly scream, “I’m cushy and soft, and your house will be so much more cozy with me in it!”  Well, as soon as the Zippy looms came into being, I knew that recreating one of those adorable foot stools was now a possibility!  Another fun thing about this project is that it will give you the opportunity to put those tired linens you may have hanging around your house to good use…what a terrific way to upcycle, right?

Materials

Knitting loom:  (5) Zippys and connectors (or 20 peg equivalent if using the Zippy Corners).

Yarn:  Red Heart Grande (46 yrds per skein), super bulky #6 weight: approx 9 skeins (in color: currant)  **Note: this yarn is very bulky for a #6…almost rope-like.  If you substitute a yarn of a thinner width, you’ll possibly need to hold 2 strands as one throughout to get the desired thickness for the project.

Notions:  loom tool, 6.5mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, wide eye yarn needle, row counter, knitting pins,  removeable stitch markers or bits of scrap yarn, one large decorative button (if desired), stuffing of choice (see Pattern Notes for more details on this).

Gauge: 6 stitches and 9.5 rows per 4”

Zippy Foot Pouf topPouf Measurements: (**All measurements given are before stuffing…once the item is stuffed firmly the measurements will inflate.)

Circumference: approx 62.75″

Diameter approx :20″

Height: approx 13.5″

Skills Needed: U-Stitch, E-wrap, Purl, Slip, Wrap & Turn,  CO of your choice, and Basic BO, Seaming Skills.

Abbreviations: 

CO=cast on

S1=slip one stitch (do not knit it, carry working yarn behind peg)

K=knit (pattern uses U-stitch)

P=purl stitch

KO=knit off

St(s)=stitches

WY=working yarn

W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.)

BO=Bind off

Pattern Notes:

As this is working with very large pegs, knit with a snug (yet not too tight) tension throughout.  Using the U-stitch as knits helps achieve a fabric that is not too holey for your finished pouf.

Notes on Stuffing: This project allows you to use those tired, worn out linens, duvets, and pillows you may have lying around the house, but don’t have a use for. If you are quicker than me about destashing cupboards and don’t already have these items, lol, a trip to the second hand store of your choice would be a very inexpensive way to aquire a good selection.  Make sure that you have laundered all items before using to stuff your pouf. You will need a pretty good stack of sheets, blankets, etc, to get a firm pouf that will easily support your feet.  The sample uses 2 fiberfill pillows propped up on their sides and rolled together in the center, with all the blankets and sheets wrapped evenly around them to fill out the pouf.

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Working with the Half Hitch:  https://youtu.be/a8aWyT4sc4w

Working a Wrap & Turn: https://youtu.be/5e3J0fuYz-U  (shown at 2:20 in tutorial)

INSTRUCTIONS

Top & Bottom:  (Make 2)

Connect 3 Zippy looms together for a total of 12 pegs.  CO to all 12 pegs.

Prepare to create a series of 8 short row wedges.

Step 1:  S1, K1, W&T peg 3.

Step 2:  K2 back to peg 1.

Step 3:  S1, K2 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 4.

Step 4:  K3 back to peg 1.

Step 5:  S1, K3 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 5.

Step 6:  K4 back to peg 1.

Step 7:  S1, K4 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 6.

Step 8:  K5 back to peg 1.

Step 9:  S1, K5 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 7.

Step 10:  K6 back to peg 1.

Step 11:  S1, K6 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 8.

Step 12:  K7 back to peg 1.

Step 13:  S1, K7 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 9.

Step 14:  K8 back to peg 1.

Step 15:  S1, K8 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 10.

Step 16:  K9 back to peg 1.

Step 17:  S1, K9 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 11.

Step 18:  K10 back to peg 1.

Step 19:  S1, K10 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 12.

Step 20:  K11 back to peg 1.

Step 21:  S1, K11 (on 12th peg KO 2 sts over 1).

Step 22:  S1, P10, K1.

Repeat Steps 1-22 seven more times to create a total of 8 wedges– except on Step 22 of 8th wedge.

Step 22 of 8th Wedge:  This will be the BO row.  Use the BBO, but purl all sts, rather than knitting them as follows:

  • Slip peg 12, purl peg 11,
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 12, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 11,
  • Purl peg 10,
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 10…
  • Repeat steps until last loop has been bound off,
  • Leave any length of yarn in place without cutting…this will be used during the assembly of the pouf later.

Using yarn tail, seam up BO and CO edges, moving toward the center of circle.  Gather the loose stitches at the inside of center and cinch tightly.  Knot and trim.  If desired, a large, decorative button can be sewn to the circle which will be the top of the pouf.

To achieve a flat and uniform shape, block circles lightly.

 

Sides:

Connect 5 Zippy looms together for a total of 20 pegs (alternatively, 4 Zippy looms and 4 corners could also be used).  CO to all 20 pegs to work as a flat panel.

Rows 1-17: Repeat the following 2 row pattern (Row 17 ends with A):

A- K1, P1, K1, P1, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1.

B- K2, P1, K1, P1, K10, P1, K1, P1, K2.

Row 18:  Work Row B above, but on the first and last loop of the row, add either a removable stitch marker, or a small piece of scrap yarn as a place holder.

Repeat Rows 1-18 seven more times. (144 rows total)

BBO all sts.  Leave a long tail for seaming sides together.

Finishing:

Stitch the CO edge to the BO edge. (Sample uses mattress stitch, but feel free to use the seaming technique most comfortable.)

Using the knitting pins, secure the bottom of the pouf to the sides.  Match the markers used on each 18th row of the sides to the long lines of the pouf. This will aid in keeping the pieces lined up correctly while seaming.  Using the long BO tails, seam the bottom to the sides.

Begin adding the stuffing to the pouf (see Pattern Notes for more instructions).  Start with the rolled, on-edge pillows, then wrap blankets and sheets, etc snuggly around them.  Keep building from the bottom to the top, until even with the pillows’ top edges.  Keep pulling the sides and bottom of the pouf up around the stuffing to create a firm base and sides.  The idea is to create a firm cylinder of stuffing that doesn’t bulge outward when pushed down upon.

Repeat the same procedure with the top piece of the pouf as used for seaming the bottom.  Stop before seaming all the way to adjust stuffing as necessary, or to add additional items to fill out pouf.  Once the pouf is smoothly stuffed, complete the seaming process.  Pull all tails to the inside.

Now, pull up a chair, grab your favorite read, and …

ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzz….

 

 

6 Comments

  • What a clever and lovely design for a gift or for your own home. Love it!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jacquelyn! :) It works up pretty quickly, too…love those Zippys!

  • Fantastic design, Bethany! I can definitely see one of these in my future.

  • Oh, thank you, Brenda! I really love how it turned out…really enjoy those big knits! :) I would love to see yours when you get it finished!

  • I don’t have a zippy loom yet, but now I want to buy one just for this project. I really want to make this cute pouf now! I love it Bethany!

  • Squeee! :D I love it when something is born from my looms that makes others want to join in and make it too. Thanks so much, Colleen! :)

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Dec 23, 2015

Men’s Winter Set

2015-12-23 04.17.05_edited-1

Loom Knitting Advent, day 23, brings you a fantastic Men’s winter set of beanie and scarf.  Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 23

Materials

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom, Small gauge.

Yarn: Approx, 690 yds of worsted weight wool. Knit Picks City Tweed in Obsidian, worsted weight was used in sample.

Beanie:  130 yards

Scarf:  560 yards

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: 7 stitches x 12 rows = 2”

Size: Hat fits an adult male (up to 23″ head circumference). Scarf 10 x 65 inches.

Abbreviations: K= knit stitch P=purl stitch Rep=Repeat Rnd(s)=Rounds St(s)=stitch(es)

2015-12-23 04.17.58

INSTRUCTIONSChart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BEANIE

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-21: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next 16 rnds: Work Ripple Chart shown.

Rep Ripple chart until item measures 7 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave in ends.

SCARF

Cast on 50 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: sl1, k3, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

Next 16 rows: *sl 1, k2, work Ripple Chart on next 44 pegs, k3.

Rep last 16 rows until panel measures 70 inches from cast on edge.

Repeat Rows 1-10.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave in ends.

2015-12-23 04.05.52

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Dec 22, 2015

Elf House Slippers

 Elf Shoes

Loom Knitting Advent, day 22, brings you a whimsical pair of Elf slippers.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 22

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 (36 pegs)

Yarn: Approx 150 yards of worsted weight wool.  Patons Classic Wool worsted in Bright Red and White was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

Size: Shown fits a size 5-9 US women.

Abbreviations

cc=contrasting color (White)

cont=continue

K=knit stitch

k2tog=A right slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 1 and hold it. Move stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Place the loop you are holding back on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop. *Note: usually, you move this loop over to peg 2 to leave peg 1 empty to create a yarn over.

mc=main color (Red)

P=purl stitch

rem=remain

Rep=repeat

rnd(s)=round(s)

st(s)=stitch(es)

ssk= A left slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop.

W&T=wrap and turn. The process of wrapping the peg and turning to work in the opposite direction on the loom. Lift the stitch/loop off the peg, wrap the peg so that the yarn goes around the peg and ends towards the front of the peg—if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg counterclockwise; if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg clockwise. See video demonstrating a W&T (Around 2:26)

YO=Yarn over. Created by ewraping the empty peg. Used to create the opening for lace items–it creates a small hole. Note: On the next row, untwist the ewrap and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg, then work the peg as instructed (either purl it or knit it).

Chart for the lace cuff
Rnd 1: k to end

Rnd 2: *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to endelf-house-slippers

INSTRUCTIONS

Using MC, cast on 36 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Set up rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 1: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd. (It is a 9 st pattern repeat).

Step 1: Remove loop from peg 4 and hold it, move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Place loop that you are holding back on peg 4.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

Step 3: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2.

Peg 1 is empty

Step 4: Move loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Step 6: Move loop from peg 8 to peg 7.

Peg 8 is empty.

Step 7: Ewrap peg 1, knit peg 2-7 (treating the pegs that have two loops as one loop), ewrap peg 8, knit peg 9.

On Rnd 1: undo the ewraps on pegs 1 and 8, placing this piece of yarn in front of the peg. Then proceed to knit the rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2

Join CC and cont with CC

**Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Work Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 2 times.**

Pick up MC and cont with MC

Rep from ** to **

Next 5 rnds: k to the end of rnd

Heel

Work a short row heel over the first 18 sts. (See video on how to work a short-row heel)

Instep and Sole

Cont working in the rnd as follows:

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Rep last rnd until item measures 2 inches less than desired foot length. (Sample shown has 30 rnds).

Cut yarn leaving a 15 inch yarn tail***.

Curled Tip Shaping 2015-12-21 03.05.54

Join yarn at peg 28. Peg 28 will become peg 1 from this point forward. The toe is shaped with both short rows and with decreases. Tip: Recommend to move the stitches first to create the decreases.

Next 2 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (34 sts rem).

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (32 sts rem).

Next row: k14, (k2tog)2x, k12, w&t.

Next row: k26, w&t.

Next row: k11, (k2tog)2x, k10, w&t.

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k9, (k2tog)2x, k8, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (24 sts rem)

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k20, w&t.

Next row: k19, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (20 sts rem)

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k8, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k3, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k4, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k2, (k2tog)2x, k2.

Next row: k1 (k2tog)2x, k1.

Next row: (k2tog)2x

Next row: k2tog

Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Weave this end in.

Using the yarn tail from the opening, mattress stitch seam the toe close.

Optional: Add a decorative bell to the tip of the Elf House Slipper.

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 21, 2015

Loom FAQs: How To Make Holes? On Purpose

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While working various patterns, holes are sometimes needed.  Sounds odd.  Who wants holes in their knits?  But I have seen questions like How do I make a thumb hole?  How do I made eye holes for a ski mask?  How do I make buttonholes?  Ponytail holes in hats?  Hole are needed.  Shovels are not.  So let’s toss that shovel aside and talk about how to work some holes into your knits.

While there are many variations of holes, there are basically only 3 methods to working a hole in knits.  Eyelets which are small and great for buttonholes, vertical holes which are great for thumb holes in fingerless gloves, and horizontal holes which are good for eye holes in ski mask and ponytail holes in hats.

Eyelets

Aren’t eyelets only used in lace stitch patterns?  Well eyelets are for more than just lace work.  They are great for making buttonholes in knits when the stitch pattern isn’t open enough for buttons.  While buttonholes can also be made using the horizontal or vertical methods for larger buttons in smaller gauge knits, there are 2 ways to make eyelets for buttonholes.  The first is with a 1 stitch decrease and the second is with decrease using 2 stitches.

– 1 stitch decrease eyelet

eyelet1When working a 1 stitch decrease eyelet, you just need to work a k2tog (knit 2 together) or an ssk (slip slip knit) depending on which direction you are working leaving an empty peg.

Move the stitch off the peg where the eyelet is to be.

 

 

eyelet2

 

Place the stitch on the next peg.  Then knit both loops together for the k2tog or ssk.  1 peg is left empty.

 

 

 

Then work a yo (yarn over) on the next row or round to replace the stitch on the empty peg.  There are 3 sizes of 1 stitch decrease eyelets depending on how the yo is worked.

There are 2 ways to work a yarn over.

eyelet flat

The first way is to lay the working yarn in front of the peg straight across the peg like working a flat knit.  This method will leave the smallest eyelet hole.

 

 

 

eyelet4

The other way is to wrap the peg like an e-wrap.  If you wrap the peg, there are 2 sizes of eyelets.  One is to leave the peg wrapped and just work that stitch with it wrapped.  This is the middle size eyelet.

 

 

 

eyelet5

To make the largest 1 stitch decrease eyelet, wrap the peg for the yo, but unwrap it and lay the working yarn in front of the peg when working the stitch on the next row.  It will be loose which is why it makes the bigger hole.

 

 

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 2 stitch decrease eyelet

big eyelet1

With the 2 stitch decrease eyelet, you will work a k2tog and an ssk leaving 2 pegs empty

 

 

 

 

big eyelet2

 

 

 

 

 

big eyelet3and then working 2 yo to replace the stitch on the empty pegs.

 

Same thing applies with the yo methods on this eyelet version as with the 1 stitch decrease eyelet.

 

 

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vertical Holes

Fingerless mitts or gloves are all the rage these days.  Especially with all of our touch screen electronic devices.  It’s easy to leave off the fingers of mittens or gloves.  But how do you work a hole for the thumbs?  Especially when working the mitts in the round.  It’s a great question.  And an easy one to explain.

Basically, all a person needs to do to work a vertical hole in their knits when working in the round is to stop working in the round and work a flat panel for several rows before starting to work in the round again.

Huh??  Yeah…  Easier said than done!  Or easier with pictures with step by step instructions instead of trying to explain in 1 sentence.  Let me show you how…

vhole1

 

The hole will be between the pegs with the stitch markers.

When making the vertical hole in a mitt or other items worked in the round, just start working a flat panel at this point by slipping the first stitch

 

vhole2

and knitting back the other direction

 

 

 

 

vhole3

with the last peg being worked is the other peg with the stitch marker.

 

 

 

 

vhole4

Then slip this stitch and work back in the other direction.

 

 

 

 

Work in rows until you get the length needed for your hole and start working the round again to close up the top of the hole.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

 

You can see that the top and bottom of these holes are not the sturdiest so you may want to whip stitch the top and bottom for strength.

By slipping the first stitch, you get a nice chain edge on each side.

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Holes

Anytime I see someone asking how to make the eye slits in a ski mask, I always have just one thought.  Somewhere there is a bank waiting to robbed…  But then I live in the South of the USA where the winters are not that cold.  I do realize that up north and other places around the world have very harsh winters, and ski masks are very lovely to wear to keep a persons cheeks and nose from freezing when working and playing outdoors.

Also hats with ponytail holes are great for those who like to wear hats and still wear a ponytail.  Especially runners.  And those of us who are too lazy to fix our hair or don’t want hat hair when it’s cold.

Horizontal holes are best for these types of hats.  These type of holes require binding off several pegs and then working in a flat panel for however tall the hole is needed before casting those pegs back on so working in the round can be resumed.  Still confused?  Well back to that step by step photo tutorial…

hhole1

For this demonstration, I am working in the round, working right to left, and want to work the horizontal hole between the pegs with the stitch markers.

 

 

 

First I will bind off those 4 pegs between the stitch markers using the basic bind off.  First knit the first 2 pegs to the left of the stitch marker on the right.  Then move the second stitch to the peg on the right and knit over.

hhole3

Then move the stitch on that peg over to the peg on the left leaving that peg empty.

 

 

 

 

hhole empty pegs

Then continue with the basic bind off method until all the pegs are empty between the stitch markers.

 

 

 

 

Now work in rows like in the vertical hole until the hole is the size needed.  For this demonstration, I worked 3 rows until I was back on the right side of the empty pegs.  Now to cast back on those empty pegs.

hhole ewrap co

You can just yarn over those empty pegs with by wrapping the pegs with an e-wrap to cast those stitches back on.  Then continue working in the round again.

 

 

 

If you prefer the chain edge like I do, you can work the chain cast on.

hhole cco1

In order for the cast on to be joined, the first loop needs to be drawn up through the last stitch worked.

Put the crochet hook down through the stitch.

 

 

 

hhole cco2

Then catch the working yarn and draw the new loop up through the stitch.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco4

Work the chain cast on until all the pegs are cast back on.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco5

Then place the last loop on the next peg and knit over.  Continue working in the round.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco6

Horizontal hole complete!

 

 

 

 

 

Holes are fun because they break the boredom.  Now to figure out exactly where to put them in your work!  It’s always something, isn’t it?  Happy knitting!

 

 

1 Comment

  • I really like these informational / learning posts. Thank you for taking the time to help us!

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Dec 21, 2015

Angel Square (double knit)

Christmas Angel w/ Trumpet

fullsizeangel1

Loom Knitting Advent, day 21, brings you a lovely double knit square with an intarsia motif.

Designed by Pat Novak

Day 21

Loom:  All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1 cm spacing.

Yarn:  Paton’s Classic Wool, 100% wool, 120 yds per skein.  Hand wash and lay flat to dry.  Colors used are white (W) and Gold (G).  Background is Natural, or Blue in Lions Brand Alpine Wool in BayLeaf.  Both yarns are 100% wool #5 with great color assortments.  Dark Spruce green also works well.  This will be noted as (B) yarn in pattern for ‘background’.  One skein of (B) and 1/2 skein of (W), and small amount of (G).

Stitch:  Stockinette

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook, scissors, large tapestry needle

Size:  10 X 10 inches blocked

Gauge:  4 sts and 5 rows=1 inch  Abbreviations:  R=right, L=left, yds=yards

You may want to add a piece of painters tape on the board near you and note the number of each peg.  This will really make it easier than counting pegs each row.  Also, the graph is explained in the following instructions working from left to right.  You may want to re-number your graph on paper,  so print it out before you begin.

Instructions

Cast On 30 stitches in Stockinette, (B) yarn.

Rows 1-3:  Work in stockinette stitch.

Row 4:  Tie on (W) yarn at peg #16.  Work pegs # 16-20 in stockinette.  Lay yarn down.  Go back to start of row and weave in stockinette on all pegs with (B), skipping the pegs with (W) yarn.  Hook over all.

Rows 5-24:  All these rows will be a combination of the (B) and the (W) yarn worked in stockinette.  Work the (W) first on designated pegs.  Then cover the rest of the pegs with the (B) yarn.  Hook over.

The pegs to be wrapped with (W), by row, are as follows.

Row 5:  Pegs 15-24

Row 6:  Pegs 14-23

Row 7:  Pegs 14-23

Row 8:  Pegs 13-22

Row 9:  Pegs 13-21

Row 10:  Pegs 13-21

Row 11:  Pegs 13-20

Row 12:  Pegs 13-19, and peg 22

Row 13:  Pegs 13-18, and pegs 22-23

Row 14:  Pegs 13-18, and pegs 21-23

Row 15:  Pegs 14-18, and pegs 21-24

Row 16:  Pegs 14-17, and pegs 21-24

Row 17:  Pegs 15-17, and pegs 22-25

Row 18:  Peg 11, and pegs 15-17, and pegs 22-25

Row 19:  Pegs 11-12, and pegs 15-16, and 22-25

Row 20:  Pegs 10-16, and pegs 22-25

Row 21:  Pegs 9-16, and pegs 19-25

Row 22:  Pegs 8-11, and pegs 13-16, and pegs 18-24

Row 23:  Pegs 8-10, and pegs 14-24

Row 24:  Pegs 8-10, and pegs 15-23

Row 25:  Tie on (G) yarn at peg #5 and wrap pegs 5 and 6, front to back.  Lay down yarn.

Wrap in stockinette with (W) yarn, peg 9, and 14-15, and pegs 18-23.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 26:  Pegs 4-12 with (G) yarn, front to back.  Pick up (W) yarn and work in stockinette on pegs 13-15, and pegs 18-23.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 27:  Pegs 5-6, and peg 28 with (G), peg 9, and pegs 13-16, and pegs 19-23 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 28:  Pegs 28-29 with (G) yarn.  Pegs 12-16, and pegs 21-22 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 29:  Peg 28 with (G) yarn.  Pegs 12-16 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 30:  Pegs 12-16 with (W) yarweaveangeln.

Row 31:  Pegs 13-15 with (W) yarn.

Row 32-40:  These rows will be (B) yarn except for a series of (G) stars.  Each star consists of 4 stitches each, one stitch, and 3 stitches in next row, and then last stitch in next row.  See graph.  You can add as many of these stars in (G) yarn as desired.  The Christmas Angel will love lots of bright stars.

 

Bind off after row 40 is complete with the 2-loop method.  Finish the anchor yarn edge the same and remove the anchor yarn.

Lightly mist and block the square.  It can be added to your other squares or used alone.

 

Square_angels

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 20, 2015

Sierras Beanie

2015-12-13 01.02

Loom Knitting Advent, day 20, brings you a lovely hat reminiscent of the Sierra mountains. Grab your knitting loom and knit that last minute gift.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 20

Materials

 

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom. 80 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 160 yards of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Malabrigo Rios in Sand Bank was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: Fits adult size women, circumference approximately 20 inches. To create a smaller/larger size: cast on in multiple of 8 (64 (baby), 72 (youth), 80 (adult medium), 88 (adult large)).

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows= 2 inches in stockinette.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

Rep=Repeat

Chevron Stitch PatternSierras Chart

Rnd 1: *p1, k3; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *k1, p1, k5, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 3: *k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 4: *k3, p1, k1, p1, k2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Repeat Rnds 1-4 for Chevron Stitch pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

HAT

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Work Rnds 1-4 of Chevron Stitch pattern.

Rep Chevron Stitch Pattern Rnds 1-4: 11 more times.

Next 2 rnds: k to the end rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

2015-12-13 01.12.05

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3 Comments

  • Isela, you have done it again! I am a lover of the Chevron stitch in both knit and crochet. I know I will enjoy making this hat. Thanks for sharing. Have a great Christmas!!!

  • I love this one. I take it it is one strand of yarn only. Please confirm, because it looks so snug.

  • Yes. One strand.

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Dec 19, 2015

Bluebird Cowl

2015-12-13 01

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 19, brings you a lovely cowl with a gorgeous stitch pattern that accentuates a slanted slipped stitch. 

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 19

Knitting loom: All-n-One Loom. 104 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Azules was used in sample.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: 9.5L x 9.5W (18 circumference) inches.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

½ RC=Takes place over 3 pegs, pegs numbered as follows Peg 3, Peg 2, Peg 1 (peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the center, peg 3 on the left). Remove stitches from peg 1 and peg 2 off the knitting loom and place them on a cable needle and set it towards the center of the loom. Knit peg 3 and place it on peg 1. Place the stitches from the cable needle back on the loom as follows, loop that was on peg 1 place it on peg 2, loop that was on peg 2 place it on peg 3. Knit peg 2 and peg 3. (Short version: sl2 to CN, hold to back, k1, k2 from CN)

P=purl stitch

Rep=Repeat

Sl=Skip peg with yarn behind peg

st(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Cowl

Cast on 104 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8 and Rnd 9: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 10: *1/2 RC, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 8-Rnd 11: 14 more times, or until desired length.

Next 7 rnds: Rnd 1-Rnd 7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Bluebird Hat (no sample shown; only pattern provided)

Knitting loom: All-N-One knitting loom. 80 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 160 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Azules recommended to match cowl.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: Instructions provided will make a hat that will fit a head circumference of up to 21 inches.

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 13 and Rnd 14: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 15: *1/2 RC, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 16: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 13-Rnd 16: 12 more times, or until desired length.

Next 2 rnds: k to the end rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

6 Comments

  • Isela, I love the Cowl pattern but I thinks the bind off is an error. It says to use the “gathered removal method”. Is that correct?

  • Sue, thank you. Yes, it should say basic bind off method. I have fixed it.

  • I’d love to see how this looks on! Any pics of someone wearing it?

  • All the pictures of the cowl are without a model.

  • Still showing incorrect bind off, Bind off with gather removal method.it should say basic bind off method

  • Kathy, refresh your browser. Note: there is a hat pattern at the end of the pattern that does require a gather removal method.

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Dec 18, 2015

Celebration Afghan

Afghan Celebration Photo

 

 

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 18, brings you a lovely double knit afghan. Enhance your home during the holidays with this classic wool throw destined to become a family heirloom.

Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

Day 18

Loom: 38” Knitting Board set for double knit with .5” spacer setting.

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool.  137 yards per skein.  Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry.

Colors: Hollyberry (R) 9 skeins, White (W), 2 skeins.

Stitches: Stockinette and Rib

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large darning needle.

Size: 37 x 47 inches

Gauge:  3 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Abbreviations:  (R)= Hollyberry Red yarn.  (W)= White yarn.  

Back to back weave: single pass of the loom.  Basic wrap around back peg of stitch and then carry the yarn straight down to lower peg of same stitch.  This can be done for just a single stitch or several.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 111 stitches with (R) in stockinette stitch.  Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Row 1: Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Rows 2 – 7:  Work in (R) in rib stitch.

Note: Rows 8 – 138 are all in stockinette stitch unless noted for basic weave.

Row 8:  Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Row 9:  Tie on (W) yarn and work in stockinette on stitches 3-109.  Wrap the rest of the pegs in (R) yarn basic weave, and hook over.

Row 10:  Work row in (R) yarn.  Carry (W) yarn through.

Row 11: Work (W) on rows 2 – 110.  Wrap basic weave on pin 1 and then loosely to 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 12: Work (W) yarn on pins 2, 6, 8,10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24,26, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40 42, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70, 72, 74, 78, 80 82, 86, 88, 90, 94, 96, 102, 104, 106, and 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 13:  Wrap (W) yarn on pins 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41,42, 44, 46, 47, 49, 50, 52, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 62, 63, 65, 66, 68, 70, 71, 73, 74, 76, 78, 79, 81, 82, 84, 86, 87, 89, 90, 92, 94, 95, 97, 98, 100, 102, 103, 105, 106, 108, 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 14: Repeat Row 12.

Row 15: Repeat Row 11.

Row 16: Work one row in (R) yarn.

Row 17:  Wrap even-numbered pins from 2 – 110 in (W) yarn.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 18:  Wrap odd-numbered pins in (W) yarn from 3 to 109.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 19: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 20 – 26: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 27: Tie on (W) yarn and wrap 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 28: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 29: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98, 102 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 30: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 31: Repeat Row 27.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 32 – 38: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 39:  Wrap (W) on pins 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 40: Wrap (W) on pins 7, 9, 13, 15, 19, 21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 63, 67, 69 73, 75, 79, 81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 103, and 105.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 41:  Wrap (W) on pins 6, 10, 12, 16, 18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42, 46, 48, 52, 54, 58, 60, 64, 66, 70, 72, 76, 78, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 100, 102, and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 42:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71, 74, 77, 80, 83, 86, 89, 92, 95, 98, 101, 104, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 43: Repeat Row 41

Row 44: Repeat Row 40

Row 45: Repeat Row 39.  Cut and tie off (W) Yarn.

Rows 46-52:  Work in (R) yarn.

Rows 53 – 57:  Repeat rows 27 – 31.

Rows 58 – 68:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 69:  Wrap (W) on pins 53, 55, 57, and 59.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 70:  Wrap (W) on pins 51, 54, 56, and 58.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 71:  Wrap (W) on pins 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61 and 63.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 72: Wrap (W) on pins 48, 51, 52, 53, 56, 59, 60, 61 and 64.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 73: Wrap (W) on pins 47, 49, 51–54, 58-61, 63, and 65. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 74: Wrap (W) on pins 46, 48, 51- 55, 57-61, 64, and 66. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 75: Wrap (W) on pins 45, 47, 49, 52- 55, 57, 58-60, 63, 65, and 67. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 76: Wrap (W) on pins 53-55 and 57-59. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 77: Wrap (W) on pins 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, and 64 – 68.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 78: Wrap (W) on pins 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, and 63 – 67.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 79: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 43, 46-50, 53, 59, 62-66, 69, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 80: Wrap (W) on pins 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 83, 86, 88, 90 and 93. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 81: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 82: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 44, 46, 54, 56, 58, 66, 68, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 83: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 84: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 85: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 43, 46-50, 55, 59, 62-66, 69, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 86:  Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, 63-67, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 87: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, 64-68, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, and 96-100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 88: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 53-55, 57-59, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 89: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 45, 47, 49, 52-55, 57-60, 63, 65, 67, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 90: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 46, 48, 51-55, 57-61, 64, 66, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 91: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 35, 37, 47, 49, 51-54, 58-61, 63, 65, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 92: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 14, 22, 24, 26, 34, 36, 48, 51-53, 56, 59-61, 64, 76, 78, 86, 88, 90 98, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 93: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61, 63, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 94: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 51, 54, 56, 68, 61, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 95: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 53, 55, 57, 59, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 96: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 56, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, and 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 97: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 48, 56, 64, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, 96-100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 98: Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 49, 56, 63, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 99: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 50, 55, 57, 62, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 100: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 51-54, 56, 58-61, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 101: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 50, 55, 57, 62, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 102:  Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 49, 54, 56, 58, 63, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 103: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 49, 53, 56, 59, 63, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 104: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 39, 41, 50-52, 56, 60-62, 71, 73, 83, 86, 88, 90 93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 105: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 56, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 106:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 24, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 88, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 107: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 24, 32, 56, 80, 88, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 108: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 17, 24, 31, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 81, 88, 95, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 109:  Wrap (W) on pins 18, 23, 25, 30, 56, 82, 87, 89 and 94.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 110:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19-22, 24, 26-29, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 83-86, 88, 90-93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 111:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 18, 23, 25, 30, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 82, 87, 89, 94, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 112:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 12, 17, 22, 24, 26, 31, 36, 39, 41, 44, 56, 68, 71, 73, 76, 81, 86, 88, 90, 95 100, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 113:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 17, 21, 24, 27, 31, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 81, 85, 88, 91, 95, 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 114:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 18-20, 24, 28-30, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 82-84, 88, 92-94, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 115:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 24, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 88, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 116:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 24, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 88, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 117: Wrap (W) on rows 3 to 109.  Wrap basic weave on pegs 1 and 2, and then loosely to 110 and 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 118: Wrap (W) on pin 3, then even-numbered pins from 4-108, and 109. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 119: Repeat row 117.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Rows 120 – 126:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 127:  Repeat row 19.

Row 128:  Repeat row 18.

Row 129:  Repeat row 17.

Row 130: Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 131-135:  Repeat Row 15, 14, 13, 12,11.

Row 136: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 137:  Repeat Row 9.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Row 138:  Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 139 – 144:  Work in Rib stitch.

Row 145: Work in (R) yarn in stockinette.

Bind off 2 over 2 with crochet hook.  Bind off at anchor yarn in 2 over 2 and remove anchor yarn.  Weave in yarn tails.

Chart

 

4 Comments

  • Just beautiful!

  • Could you please make this downloadable. i ordered the 38″ board to do the afghan, looking forward to making it thanks

  • Jean, you can copy it to your desktop and save it to your computer.

  • i am working on this afghan and just not sure how to do the weave, i am on row 12 and did it according to the directions, i get to the end of the row and hook it over then i do the red on the others i end up with both yarns at the end of the row. Is this correct? and if it is do i then take my yarns to peg 1 to start the next row or do i start my next row by turning my board and starting on peg 111 as peg number 1. on my other rows there wasn’t alot of changing colors so i just wraped as i went and didn’t have any issues til now. Normally i never turn my board because i can do it without turning it, to me it is a pain and cumbursome to keep turning it. I would like to see a video of how to do rows 12 and 13 so i can see how you are suspose to do them. it doesn’t have to be a professional video, just take out your cell phone and video tape you doing it. thanks so much i really want this to look as good as the designer’s . This is the nicest afghan that has been posted in a long time and was very expensive since i had to buy the knitting board and the yarn that was a fortune and really don’t want to give up on doing it. thanks again

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