Dec 24, 2015

Zippy Foot Pouf

Zippy Foot Pouf  3Loom Knitting Advent, day 24 of brings you a wonderful addition to your home decor: the Zippy Foot Pouf!

Designed by Bethany Dailey

I have always loved the look of those oversized knitted foot poufs that seem to fairly scream, “I’m cushy and soft, and your house will be so much more cozy with me in it!”  Well, as soon as the Zippy looms came into being, I knew that recreating one of those adorable foot stools was now a possibility!  Another fun thing about this project is that it will give you the opportunity to put those tired linens you may have hanging around your house to good use…what a terrific way to upcycle, right?

Materials

Knitting loom:  (5) Zippys and connectors (or 20 peg equivalent if using the Zippy Corners).

Yarn:  Red Heart Grande (46 yrds per skein), super bulky #6 weight: approx 9 skeins (in color: currant)  **Note: this yarn is very bulky for a #6…almost rope-like.  If you substitute a yarn of a thinner width, you’ll possibly need to hold 2 strands as one throughout to get the desired thickness for the project.

Notions:  loom tool, 6.5mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, wide eye yarn needle, row counter, knitting pins,  removeable stitch markers or bits of scrap yarn, one large decorative button (if desired), stuffing of choice (see Pattern Notes for more details on this).

Gauge: 6 stitches and 9.5 rows per 4”

Zippy Foot Pouf topPouf Measurements: (**All measurements given are before stuffing…once the item is stuffed firmly the measurements will inflate.)

Circumference: approx 62.75″

Diameter approx :20″

Height: approx 13.5″

Skills Needed: U-Stitch, E-wrap, Purl, Slip, Wrap & Turn,  CO of your choice, and Basic BO, Seaming Skills.

Abbreviations: 

CO=cast on

S1=slip one stitch (do not knit it, carry working yarn behind peg)

K=knit (pattern uses U-stitch)

P=purl stitch

KO=knit off

St(s)=stitches

WY=working yarn

W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.)

BO=Bind off

Pattern Notes:

As this is working with very large pegs, knit with a snug (yet not too tight) tension throughout.  Using the U-stitch as knits helps achieve a fabric that is not too holey for your finished pouf.

Notes on Stuffing: This project allows you to use those tired, worn out linens, duvets, and pillows you may have lying around the house, but don’t have a use for. If you are quicker than me about destashing cupboards and don’t already have these items, lol, a trip to the second hand store of your choice would be a very inexpensive way to aquire a good selection.  Make sure that you have laundered all items before using to stuff your pouf. You will need a pretty good stack of sheets, blankets, etc, to get a firm pouf that will easily support your feet.  The sample uses 2 fiberfill pillows propped up on their sides and rolled together in the center, with all the blankets and sheets wrapped evenly around them to fill out the pouf.

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Working with the Half Hitch:  https://youtu.be/a8aWyT4sc4w

Working a Wrap & Turn: https://youtu.be/5e3J0fuYz-U  (shown at 2:20 in tutorial)

INSTRUCTIONS

Top & Bottom:  (Make 2)

Connect 3 Zippy looms together for a total of 12 pegs.  CO to all 12 pegs.

Prepare to create a series of 8 short row wedges.

Step 1:  S1, K1, W&T peg 3.

Step 2:  K2 back to peg 1.

Step 3:  S1, K2 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 4.

Step 4:  K3 back to peg 1.

Step 5:  S1, K3 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 5.

Step 6:  K4 back to peg 1.

Step 7:  S1, K4 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 6.

Step 8:  K5 back to peg 1.

Step 9:  S1, K5 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 7.

Step 10:  K6 back to peg 1.

Step 11:  S1, K6 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 8.

Step 12:  K7 back to peg 1.

Step 13:  S1, K7 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 9.

Step 14:  K8 back to peg 1.

Step 15:  S1, K8 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 10.

Step 16:  K9 back to peg 1.

Step 17:  S1, K9 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 11.

Step 18:  K10 back to peg 1.

Step 19:  S1, K10 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 12.

Step 20:  K11 back to peg 1.

Step 21:  S1, K11 (on 12th peg KO 2 sts over 1).

Step 22:  S1, P10, K1.

Repeat Steps 1-22 seven more times to create a total of 8 wedges– except on Step 22 of 8th wedge.

Step 22 of 8th Wedge:  This will be the BO row.  Use the BBO, but purl all sts, rather than knitting them as follows:

  • Slip peg 12, purl peg 11,
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 12, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 11,
  • Purl peg 10,
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 10…
  • Repeat steps until last loop has been bound off,
  • Leave any length of yarn in place without cutting…this will be used during the assembly of the pouf later.

Using yarn tail, seam up BO and CO edges, moving toward the center of circle.  Gather the loose stitches at the inside of center and cinch tightly.  Knot and trim.  If desired, a large, decorative button can be sewn to the circle which will be the top of the pouf.

To achieve a flat and uniform shape, block circles lightly.

 

Sides:

Connect 5 Zippy looms together for a total of 20 pegs (alternatively, 4 Zippy looms and 4 corners could also be used).  CO to all 20 pegs to work as a flat panel.

Rows 1-17: Repeat the following 2 row pattern (Row 17 ends with A):

A- K1, P1, K1, P1, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1.

B- K2, P1, K1, P1, K10, P1, K1, P1, K2.

Row 18:  Work Row B above, but on the first and last loop of the row, add either a removable stitch marker, or a small piece of scrap yarn as a place holder.

Repeat Rows 1-18 seven more times. (144 rows total)

BBO all sts.  Leave a long tail for seaming sides together.

Finishing:

Stitch the CO edge to the BO edge. (Sample uses mattress stitch, but feel free to use the seaming technique most comfortable.)

Using the knitting pins, secure the bottom of the pouf to the sides.  Match the markers used on each 18th row of the sides to the long lines of the pouf. This will aid in keeping the pieces lined up correctly while seaming.  Using the long BO tails, seam the bottom to the sides.

Begin adding the stuffing to the pouf (see Pattern Notes for more instructions).  Start with the rolled, on-edge pillows, then wrap blankets and sheets, etc snuggly around them.  Keep building from the bottom to the top, until even with the pillows’ top edges.  Keep pulling the sides and bottom of the pouf up around the stuffing to create a firm base and sides.  The idea is to create a firm cylinder of stuffing that doesn’t bulge outward when pushed down upon.

Repeat the same procedure with the top piece of the pouf as used for seaming the bottom.  Stop before seaming all the way to adjust stuffing as necessary, or to add additional items to fill out pouf.  Once the pouf is smoothly stuffed, complete the seaming process.  Pull all tails to the inside.

Now, pull up a chair, grab your favorite read, and …

ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzz….

 

 

6 Comments

  • What a clever and lovely design for a gift or for your own home. Love it!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jacquelyn! :) It works up pretty quickly, too…love those Zippys!

  • Fantastic design, Bethany! I can definitely see one of these in my future.

  • Oh, thank you, Brenda! I really love how it turned out…really enjoy those big knits! :) I would love to see yours when you get it finished!

  • I don’t have a zippy loom yet, but now I want to buy one just for this project. I really want to make this cute pouf now! I love it Bethany!

  • Squeee! :D I love it when something is born from my looms that makes others want to join in and make it too. Thanks so much, Colleen! :)

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Dec 23, 2015

Men’s Winter Set

2015-12-23 04.17.05_edited-1

Loom Knitting Advent, day 23, brings you a fantastic Men’s winter set of beanie and scarf.  Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 23

Materials

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom, Small gauge.

Yarn: Approx, 690 yds of worsted weight wool. Knit Picks City Tweed in Obsidian, worsted weight was used in sample.

Beanie:  130 yards

Scarf:  560 yards

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: 7 stitches x 12 rows = 2”

Size: Hat fits an adult male (up to 23″ head circumference). Scarf 10 x 65 inches.

Abbreviations: K= knit stitch P=purl stitch Rep=Repeat Rnd(s)=Rounds St(s)=stitch(es)

2015-12-23 04.17.58

INSTRUCTIONSChart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BEANIE

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-21: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next 16 rnds: Work Ripple Chart shown.

Rep Ripple chart until item measures 7 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave in ends.

SCARF

Cast on 50 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: sl1, k3, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

Next 16 rows: *sl 1, k2, work Ripple Chart on next 44 pegs, k3.

Rep last 16 rows until panel measures 70 inches from cast on edge.

Repeat Rows 1-10.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave in ends.

2015-12-23 04.05.52

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Dec 22, 2015

Elf House Slippers

 Elf Shoes

Loom Knitting Advent, day 22, brings you a whimsical pair of Elf slippers.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 22

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 (36 pegs)

Yarn: Approx 150 yards of worsted weight wool.  Patons Classic Wool worsted in Bright Red and White was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

Size: Shown fits a size 5-9 US women.

Abbreviations

cc=contrasting color (White)

cont=continue

K=knit stitch

k2tog=A right slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 1 and hold it. Move stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Place the loop you are holding back on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop. *Note: usually, you move this loop over to peg 2 to leave peg 1 empty to create a yarn over.

mc=main color (Red)

P=purl stitch

rem=remain

Rep=repeat

rnd(s)=round(s)

st(s)=stitch(es)

ssk= A left slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop.

W&T=wrap and turn. The process of wrapping the peg and turning to work in the opposite direction on the loom. Lift the stitch/loop off the peg, wrap the peg so that the yarn goes around the peg and ends towards the front of the peg—if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg counterclockwise; if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg clockwise. See video demonstrating a W&T (Around 2:26)

YO=Yarn over. Created by ewraping the empty peg. Used to create the opening for lace items–it creates a small hole. Note: On the next row, untwist the ewrap and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg, then work the peg as instructed (either purl it or knit it).

Chart for the lace cuff
Rnd 1: k to end

Rnd 2: *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to endelf-house-slippers

INSTRUCTIONS

Using MC, cast on 36 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Set up rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 1: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd. (It is a 9 st pattern repeat).

Step 1: Remove loop from peg 4 and hold it, move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Place loop that you are holding back on peg 4.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

Step 3: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2.

Peg 1 is empty

Step 4: Move loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Step 6: Move loop from peg 8 to peg 7.

Peg 8 is empty.

Step 7: Ewrap peg 1, knit peg 2-7 (treating the pegs that have two loops as one loop), ewrap peg 8, knit peg 9.

On Rnd 1: undo the ewraps on pegs 1 and 8, placing this piece of yarn in front of the peg. Then proceed to knit the rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2

Join CC and cont with CC

**Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Work Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 2 times.**

Pick up MC and cont with MC

Rep from ** to **

Next 5 rnds: k to the end of rnd

Heel

Work a short row heel over the first 18 sts. (See video on how to work a short-row heel)

Instep and Sole

Cont working in the rnd as follows:

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Rep last rnd until item measures 2 inches less than desired foot length. (Sample shown has 30 rnds).

Cut yarn leaving a 15 inch yarn tail***.

Curled Tip Shaping 2015-12-21 03.05.54

Join yarn at peg 28. Peg 28 will become peg 1 from this point forward. The toe is shaped with both short rows and with decreases. Tip: Recommend to move the stitches first to create the decreases.

Next 2 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (34 sts rem).

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (32 sts rem).

Next row: k14, (k2tog)2x, k12, w&t.

Next row: k26, w&t.

Next row: k11, (k2tog)2x, k10, w&t.

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k9, (k2tog)2x, k8, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (24 sts rem)

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k20, w&t.

Next row: k19, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (20 sts rem)

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k8, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k3, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k4, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k2, (k2tog)2x, k2.

Next row: k1 (k2tog)2x, k1.

Next row: (k2tog)2x

Next row: k2tog

Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Weave this end in.

Using the yarn tail from the opening, mattress stitch seam the toe close.

Optional: Add a decorative bell to the tip of the Elf House Slipper.

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 21, 2015

Loom FAQs: How To Make Holes? On Purpose

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While working various patterns, holes are sometimes needed.  Sounds odd.  Who wants holes in their knits?  But I have seen questions like How do I make a thumb hole?  How do I made eye holes for a ski mask?  How do I make buttonholes?  Ponytail holes in hats?  Hole are needed.  Shovels are not.  So let’s toss that shovel aside and talk about how to work some holes into your knits.

While there are many variations of holes, there are basically only 3 methods to working a hole in knits.  Eyelets which are small and great for buttonholes, vertical holes which are great for thumb holes in fingerless gloves, and horizontal holes which are good for eye holes in ski mask and ponytail holes in hats.

Eyelets

Aren’t eyelets only used in lace stitch patterns?  Well eyelets are for more than just lace work.  They are great for making buttonholes in knits when the stitch pattern isn’t open enough for buttons.  While buttonholes can also be made using the horizontal or vertical methods for larger buttons in smaller gauge knits, there are 2 ways to make eyelets for buttonholes.  The first is with a 1 stitch decrease and the second is with decrease using 2 stitches.

– 1 stitch decrease eyelet

eyelet1When working a 1 stitch decrease eyelet, you just need to work a k2tog (knit 2 together) or an ssk (slip slip knit) depending on which direction you are working leaving an empty peg.

Move the stitch off the peg where the eyelet is to be.

 

 

eyelet2

 

Place the stitch on the next peg.  Then knit both loops together for the k2tog or ssk.  1 peg is left empty.

 

 

 

Then work a yo (yarn over) on the next row or round to replace the stitch on the empty peg.  There are 3 sizes of 1 stitch decrease eyelets depending on how the yo is worked.

There are 2 ways to work a yarn over.

eyelet flat

The first way is to lay the working yarn in front of the peg straight across the peg like working a flat knit.  This method will leave the smallest eyelet hole.

 

 

 

eyelet4

The other way is to wrap the peg like an e-wrap.  If you wrap the peg, there are 2 sizes of eyelets.  One is to leave the peg wrapped and just work that stitch with it wrapped.  This is the middle size eyelet.

 

 

 

eyelet5

To make the largest 1 stitch decrease eyelet, wrap the peg for the yo, but unwrap it and lay the working yarn in front of the peg when working the stitch on the next row.  It will be loose which is why it makes the bigger hole.

 

 

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 2 stitch decrease eyelet

big eyelet1

With the 2 stitch decrease eyelet, you will work a k2tog and an ssk leaving 2 pegs empty

 

 

 

 

big eyelet2

 

 

 

 

 

big eyelet3and then working 2 yo to replace the stitch on the empty pegs.

 

Same thing applies with the yo methods on this eyelet version as with the 1 stitch decrease eyelet.

 

 

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vertical Holes

Fingerless mitts or gloves are all the rage these days.  Especially with all of our touch screen electronic devices.  It’s easy to leave off the fingers of mittens or gloves.  But how do you work a hole for the thumbs?  Especially when working the mitts in the round.  It’s a great question.  And an easy one to explain.

Basically, all a person needs to do to work a vertical hole in their knits when working in the round is to stop working in the round and work a flat panel for several rows before starting to work in the round again.

Huh??  Yeah…  Easier said than done!  Or easier with pictures with step by step instructions instead of trying to explain in 1 sentence.  Let me show you how…

vhole1

 

The hole will be between the pegs with the stitch markers.

When making the vertical hole in a mitt or other items worked in the round, just start working a flat panel at this point by slipping the first stitch

 

vhole2

and knitting back the other direction

 

 

 

 

vhole3

with the last peg being worked is the other peg with the stitch marker.

 

 

 

 

vhole4

Then slip this stitch and work back in the other direction.

 

 

 

 

Work in rows until you get the length needed for your hole and start working the round again to close up the top of the hole.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

 

You can see that the top and bottom of these holes are not the sturdiest so you may want to whip stitch the top and bottom for strength.

By slipping the first stitch, you get a nice chain edge on each side.

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Holes

Anytime I see someone asking how to make the eye slits in a ski mask, I always have just one thought.  Somewhere there is a bank waiting to robbed…  But then I live in the South of the USA where the winters are not that cold.  I do realize that up north and other places around the world have very harsh winters, and ski masks are very lovely to wear to keep a persons cheeks and nose from freezing when working and playing outdoors.

Also hats with ponytail holes are great for those who like to wear hats and still wear a ponytail.  Especially runners.  And those of us who are too lazy to fix our hair or don’t want hat hair when it’s cold.

Horizontal holes are best for these types of hats.  These type of holes require binding off several pegs and then working in a flat panel for however tall the hole is needed before casting those pegs back on so working in the round can be resumed.  Still confused?  Well back to that step by step photo tutorial…

hhole1

For this demonstration, I am working in the round, working right to left, and want to work the horizontal hole between the pegs with the stitch markers.

 

 

 

First I will bind off those 4 pegs between the stitch markers using the basic bind off.  First knit the first 2 pegs to the left of the stitch marker on the right.  Then move the second stitch to the peg on the right and knit over.

hhole3

Then move the stitch on that peg over to the peg on the left leaving that peg empty.

 

 

 

 

hhole empty pegs

Then continue with the basic bind off method until all the pegs are empty between the stitch markers.

 

 

 

 

Now work in rows like in the vertical hole until the hole is the size needed.  For this demonstration, I worked 3 rows until I was back on the right side of the empty pegs.  Now to cast back on those empty pegs.

hhole ewrap co

You can just yarn over those empty pegs with by wrapping the pegs with an e-wrap to cast those stitches back on.  Then continue working in the round again.

 

 

 

If you prefer the chain edge like I do, you can work the chain cast on.

hhole cco1

In order for the cast on to be joined, the first loop needs to be drawn up through the last stitch worked.

Put the crochet hook down through the stitch.

 

 

 

hhole cco2

Then catch the working yarn and draw the new loop up through the stitch.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco4

Work the chain cast on until all the pegs are cast back on.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco5

Then place the last loop on the next peg and knit over.  Continue working in the round.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco6

Horizontal hole complete!

 

 

 

 

 

Holes are fun because they break the boredom.  Now to figure out exactly where to put them in your work!  It’s always something, isn’t it?  Happy knitting!

 

 

1 Comment

  • I really like these informational / learning posts. Thank you for taking the time to help us!

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Dec 21, 2015

Angel Square (double knit)

Christmas Angel w/ Trumpet

fullsizeangel1

Loom Knitting Advent, day 21, brings you a lovely double knit square with an intarsia motif.

Designed by Pat Novak

Day 21

Loom:  All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1 cm spacing.

Yarn:  Paton’s Classic Wool, 100% wool, 120 yds per skein.  Hand wash and lay flat to dry.  Colors used are white (W) and Gold (G).  Background is Natural, or Blue in Lions Brand Alpine Wool in BayLeaf.  Both yarns are 100% wool #5 with great color assortments.  Dark Spruce green also works well.  This will be noted as (B) yarn in pattern for ‘background’.  One skein of (B) and 1/2 skein of (W), and small amount of (G).

Stitch:  Stockinette

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook, scissors, large tapestry needle

Size:  10 X 10 inches blocked

Gauge:  4 sts and 5 rows=1 inch  Abbreviations:  R=right, L=left, yds=yards

You may want to add a piece of painters tape on the board near you and note the number of each peg.  This will really make it easier than counting pegs each row.  Also, the graph is explained in the following instructions working from left to right.  You may want to re-number your graph on paper,  so print it out before you begin.

Instructions

Cast On 30 stitches in Stockinette, (B) yarn.

Rows 1-3:  Work in stockinette stitch.

Row 4:  Tie on (W) yarn at peg #16.  Work pegs # 16-20 in stockinette.  Lay yarn down.  Go back to start of row and weave in stockinette on all pegs with (B), skipping the pegs with (W) yarn.  Hook over all.

Rows 5-24:  All these rows will be a combination of the (B) and the (W) yarn worked in stockinette.  Work the (W) first on designated pegs.  Then cover the rest of the pegs with the (B) yarn.  Hook over.

The pegs to be wrapped with (W), by row, are as follows.

Row 5:  Pegs 15-24

Row 6:  Pegs 14-23

Row 7:  Pegs 14-23

Row 8:  Pegs 13-22

Row 9:  Pegs 13-21

Row 10:  Pegs 13-21

Row 11:  Pegs 13-20

Row 12:  Pegs 13-19, and peg 22

Row 13:  Pegs 13-18, and pegs 22-23

Row 14:  Pegs 13-18, and pegs 21-23

Row 15:  Pegs 14-18, and pegs 21-24

Row 16:  Pegs 14-17, and pegs 21-24

Row 17:  Pegs 15-17, and pegs 22-25

Row 18:  Peg 11, and pegs 15-17, and pegs 22-25

Row 19:  Pegs 11-12, and pegs 15-16, and 22-25

Row 20:  Pegs 10-16, and pegs 22-25

Row 21:  Pegs 9-16, and pegs 19-25

Row 22:  Pegs 8-11, and pegs 13-16, and pegs 18-24

Row 23:  Pegs 8-10, and pegs 14-24

Row 24:  Pegs 8-10, and pegs 15-23

Row 25:  Tie on (G) yarn at peg #5 and wrap pegs 5 and 6, front to back.  Lay down yarn.

Wrap in stockinette with (W) yarn, peg 9, and 14-15, and pegs 18-23.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 26:  Pegs 4-12 with (G) yarn, front to back.  Pick up (W) yarn and work in stockinette on pegs 13-15, and pegs 18-23.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 27:  Pegs 5-6, and peg 28 with (G), peg 9, and pegs 13-16, and pegs 19-23 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 28:  Pegs 28-29 with (G) yarn.  Pegs 12-16, and pegs 21-22 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 29:  Peg 28 with (G) yarn.  Pegs 12-16 with (W) yarn.  Complete row with (B) yarn.

Row 30:  Pegs 12-16 with (W) yarweaveangeln.

Row 31:  Pegs 13-15 with (W) yarn.

Row 32-40:  These rows will be (B) yarn except for a series of (G) stars.  Each star consists of 4 stitches each, one stitch, and 3 stitches in next row, and then last stitch in next row.  See graph.  You can add as many of these stars in (G) yarn as desired.  The Christmas Angel will love lots of bright stars.

 

Bind off after row 40 is complete with the 2-loop method.  Finish the anchor yarn edge the same and remove the anchor yarn.

Lightly mist and block the square.  It can be added to your other squares or used alone.

 

Square_angels

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 20, 2015

Sierras Beanie

2015-12-13 01.02

Loom Knitting Advent, day 20, brings you a lovely hat reminiscent of the Sierra mountains. Grab your knitting loom and knit that last minute gift.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 20

Materials

 

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom. 80 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 160 yards of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Malabrigo Rios in Sand Bank was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: Fits adult size women, circumference approximately 20 inches. To create a smaller/larger size: cast on in multiple of 8 (64 (baby), 72 (youth), 80 (adult medium), 88 (adult large)).

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows= 2 inches in stockinette.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

Rep=Repeat

Chevron Stitch PatternSierras Chart

Rnd 1: *p1, k3; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *k1, p1, k5, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 3: *k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 4: *k3, p1, k1, p1, k2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Repeat Rnds 1-4 for Chevron Stitch pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

HAT

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Work Rnds 1-4 of Chevron Stitch pattern.

Rep Chevron Stitch Pattern Rnds 1-4: 11 more times.

Next 2 rnds: k to the end rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

2015-12-13 01.12.05

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3 Comments

  • Isela, you have done it again! I am a lover of the Chevron stitch in both knit and crochet. I know I will enjoy making this hat. Thanks for sharing. Have a great Christmas!!!

  • I love this one. I take it it is one strand of yarn only. Please confirm, because it looks so snug.

  • Yes. One strand.

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Dec 19, 2015

Bluebird Cowl

2015-12-13 01

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 19, brings you a lovely cowl with a gorgeous stitch pattern that accentuates a slanted slipped stitch. 

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 19

Knitting loom: All-n-One Loom. 104 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Azules was used in sample.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: 9.5L x 9.5W (18 circumference) inches.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

½ RC=Takes place over 3 pegs, pegs numbered as follows Peg 3, Peg 2, Peg 1 (peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the center, peg 3 on the left). Remove stitches from peg 1 and peg 2 off the knitting loom and place them on a cable needle and set it towards the center of the loom. Knit peg 3 and place it on peg 1. Place the stitches from the cable needle back on the loom as follows, loop that was on peg 1 place it on peg 2, loop that was on peg 2 place it on peg 3. Knit peg 2 and peg 3. (Short version: sl2 to CN, hold to back, k1, k2 from CN)

P=purl stitch

Rep=Repeat

Sl=Skip peg with yarn behind peg

st(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Cowl

Cast on 104 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8 and Rnd 9: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 10: *1/2 RC, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 8-Rnd 11: 14 more times, or until desired length.

Next 7 rnds: Rnd 1-Rnd 7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Bluebird Hat (no sample shown; only pattern provided)

Knitting loom: All-N-One knitting loom. 80 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 160 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Azules recommended to match cowl.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: Instructions provided will make a hat that will fit a head circumference of up to 21 inches.

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 13 and Rnd 14: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 15: *1/2 RC, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 16: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 13-Rnd 16: 12 more times, or until desired length.

Next 2 rnds: k to the end rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

6 Comments

  • Isela, I love the Cowl pattern but I thinks the bind off is an error. It says to use the “gathered removal method”. Is that correct?

  • Sue, thank you. Yes, it should say basic bind off method. I have fixed it.

  • I’d love to see how this looks on! Any pics of someone wearing it?

  • All the pictures of the cowl are without a model.

  • Still showing incorrect bind off, Bind off with gather removal method.it should say basic bind off method

  • Kathy, refresh your browser. Note: there is a hat pattern at the end of the pattern that does require a gather removal method.

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Dec 18, 2015

Celebration Afghan

Afghan Celebration Photo

 

 

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 18, brings you a lovely double knit afghan. Enhance your home during the holidays with this classic wool throw destined to become a family heirloom.

Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

Day 18

Loom: 38” Knitting Board set for double knit with .5” spacer setting.

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool.  137 yards per skein.  Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry.

Colors: Hollyberry (R) 9 skeins, White (W), 2 skeins.

Stitches: Stockinette and Rib

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large darning needle.

Size: 37 x 47 inches

Gauge:  3 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Abbreviations:  (R)= Hollyberry Red yarn.  (W)= White yarn.  

Back to back weave: single pass of the loom.  Basic wrap around back peg of stitch and then carry the yarn straight down to lower peg of same stitch.  This can be done for just a single stitch or several.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 111 stitches with (R) in stockinette stitch.  Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Row 1: Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Rows 2 – 7:  Work in (R) in rib stitch.

Note: Rows 8 – 138 are all in stockinette stitch unless noted for basic weave.

Row 8:  Work row in (R) in stockinette.

Row 9:  Tie on (W) yarn and work in stockinette on stitches 3-109.  Wrap the rest of the pegs in (R) yarn basic weave, and hook over.

Row 10:  Work row in (R) yarn.  Carry (W) yarn through.

Row 11: Work (W) on rows 2 – 110.  Wrap basic weave on pin 1 and then loosely to 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 12: Work (W) yarn on pins 2, 6, 8,10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24,26, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40 42, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70, 72, 74, 78, 80 82, 86, 88, 90, 94, 96, 102, 104, 106, and 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 13:  Wrap (W) yarn on pins 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41,42, 44, 46, 47, 49, 50, 52, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 62, 63, 65, 66, 68, 70, 71, 73, 74, 76, 78, 79, 81, 82, 84, 86, 87, 89, 90, 92, 94, 95, 97, 98, 100, 102, 103, 105, 106, 108, 110.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn, basic.

Row 14: Repeat Row 12.

Row 15: Repeat Row 11.

Row 16: Work one row in (R) yarn.

Row 17:  Wrap even-numbered pins from 2 – 110 in (W) yarn.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 18:  Wrap odd-numbered pins in (W) yarn from 3 to 109.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 19: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 20 – 26: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 27: Tie on (W) yarn and wrap 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 28: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 29: Wrap (W) yarn on pins 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98, 102 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 30: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 31: Repeat Row 27.  Cut and knot (W) yarn.

Rows 32 – 38: Work in (R) yarn.

Row 39:  Wrap (W) on pins 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98 and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 40: Wrap (W) on pins 7, 9, 13, 15, 19, 21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 63, 67, 69 73, 75, 79, 81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 103, and 105.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 41:  Wrap (W) on pins 6, 10, 12, 16, 18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42, 46, 48, 52, 54, 58, 60, 64, 66, 70, 72, 76, 78, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 100, 102, and 106. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 42:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71, 74, 77, 80, 83, 86, 89, 92, 95, 98, 101, 104, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 43: Repeat Row 41

Row 44: Repeat Row 40

Row 45: Repeat Row 39.  Cut and tie off (W) Yarn.

Rows 46-52:  Work in (R) yarn.

Rows 53 – 57:  Repeat rows 27 – 31.

Rows 58 – 68:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 69:  Wrap (W) on pins 53, 55, 57, and 59.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 70:  Wrap (W) on pins 51, 54, 56, and 58.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 71:  Wrap (W) on pins 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61 and 63.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 72: Wrap (W) on pins 48, 51, 52, 53, 56, 59, 60, 61 and 64.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 73: Wrap (W) on pins 47, 49, 51–54, 58-61, 63, and 65. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 74: Wrap (W) on pins 46, 48, 51- 55, 57-61, 64, and 66. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 75: Wrap (W) on pins 45, 47, 49, 52- 55, 57, 58-60, 63, 65, and 67. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 76: Wrap (W) on pins 53-55 and 57-59. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 77: Wrap (W) on pins 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, and 64 – 68.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 78: Wrap (W) on pins 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, and 63 – 67.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 79: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 43, 46-50, 53, 59, 62-66, 69, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 80: Wrap (W) on pins 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 83, 86, 88, 90 and 93. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 81: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 82: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 44, 46, 54, 56, 58, 66, 68, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 83: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 43, 45, 48-52, 55, 57, 60-64, 67, 69, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 84: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 44, 47-51, 54, 56, 58, 61-65, 68, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 85: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 43, 46-50, 55, 59, 62-66, 69, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 86:  Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 45-49, 52, 55, 57, 60, 63-67, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 87: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 44-48, 51, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, 64-68, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, and 96-100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 88: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 53-55, 57-59, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 89: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 45, 47, 49, 52-55, 57-60, 63, 65, 67, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 90: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 46, 48, 51-55, 57-61, 64, 66, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 91: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 35, 37, 47, 49, 51-54, 58-61, 63, 65, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 92: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 14, 22, 24, 26, 34, 36, 48, 51-53, 56, 59-61, 64, 76, 78, 86, 88, 90 98, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 93: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 13, 16-20, 23, 25, 28-32, 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 60, 61, 63, 75, 77, 80-84, 87, 89, 92-96, 99, and 101.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 94: Wrap (W) on pins 12, 15-19, 22, 24, 26, 29-33, 36, 51, 54, 56, 68, 61, 76, 79-83, 86, 88, 90, 93-97, and 100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 95: Wrap (W) on pins 11, 14-18, 21, 27, 30-34, 37, 53, 55, 57, 59, 75, 78-82, 85, 91, 94-98, and 101. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 96: Wrap (W) on pins 13-17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31-35, 56, 77-81, 84, 87, 89, 92, and 95-99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 97: Wrap (W) on pins 12-16, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 32-36, 48, 56, 64, 76-80, 83, 86, 87, 89, 90, 93, 96-100. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 98: Wrap (W) on pins 21-23, 25-27, 49, 56, 63, 85-87, and 89-91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 99: Wrap (W) on pins 13,15, 17, 20-23, 25-28, 31, 33, 35, 50, 55, 57, 62, 77, 79, 81, 84-87, 89-92, 95, 97, and 99. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 100: Wrap (W) on pins 14, 16, 19-23, 25-29, 32, 34, 51-54, 56, 58-61, 78, 80, 83-87, 89-93, 96 and 98.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 101: Wrap (W) on pins 15, 17, 19-22, 26-29, 31, 33, 50, 55, 57, 62, 79, 81, 83-86, 90-93, 95, and 97.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 102:  Wrap (W) on pins 16, 19-21, 24, 27-29, 32, 49, 54, 56, 58, 63, 80, 83-85, 88, 91-93, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 103: Wrap (W) on pins 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 28, 29, 31, 49, 53, 56, 59, 63, 81, 83, 84, 87, 89, 92, 93, and 95. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 104: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19, 22, 24, 26, 29, 39, 41, 50-52, 56, 60-62, 71, 73, 83, 86, 88, 90 93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 105: Wrap (W) on pins 21,23, 25, 27, 56, 85, 87, 89 and 91. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 106:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 24, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 88, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 107: Wrap (W) on pins 16, 24, 32, 56, 80, 88, and 96.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 108: Wrap (W) on pins 9, 17, 24, 31, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 81, 88, 95, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 109:  Wrap (W) on pins 18, 23, 25, 30, 56, 82, 87, 89 and 94.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 110:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 19-22, 24, 26-29, 39, 41, 56, 71, 73, 83-86, 88, 90-93, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 111:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 18, 23, 25, 30, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 82, 87, 89, 94, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 112:  Wrap (W) on pins 9, 12, 17, 22, 24, 26, 31, 36, 39, 41, 44, 56, 68, 71, 73, 76, 81, 86, 88, 90, 95 100, and 103.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 113:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 17, 21, 24, 27, 31, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 81, 85, 88, 91, 95, 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 114:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 18-20, 24, 28-30, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 82-84, 88, 92-94, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 115:  Wrap (W) on pins 12, 24, 36, 44, 56, 68, 76, 88, and 100.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 116:  Wrap (W) on pins 5, 9, 15, 24, 33, 39, 41, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 71, 73, 79, 88, 97, 103, and 107.  Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 117: Wrap (W) on rows 3 to 109.  Wrap basic weave on pegs 1 and 2, and then loosely to 110 and 111 with (R) yarn.

Row 118: Wrap (W) on pin 3, then even-numbered pins from 4-108, and 109. Wrap remaining pins in (R) yarn.

Row 119: Repeat row 117.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Rows 120 – 126:  Work in (R) yarn.

Row 127:  Repeat row 19.

Row 128:  Repeat row 18.

Row 129:  Repeat row 17.

Row 130: Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 131-135:  Repeat Row 15, 14, 13, 12,11.

Row 136: Work row in (R) yarn.

Row 137:  Repeat Row 9.  Tie off and cut (W) yarn.

Row 138:  Work row in (R) yarn.

Rows 139 – 144:  Work in Rib stitch.

Row 145: Work in (R) yarn in stockinette.

Bind off 2 over 2 with crochet hook.  Bind off at anchor yarn in 2 over 2 and remove anchor yarn.  Weave in yarn tails.

Chart

 

4 Comments

  • Just beautiful!

  • Could you please make this downloadable. i ordered the 38″ board to do the afghan, looking forward to making it thanks

  • Jean, you can copy it to your desktop and save it to your computer.

  • i am working on this afghan and just not sure how to do the weave, i am on row 12 and did it according to the directions, i get to the end of the row and hook it over then i do the red on the others i end up with both yarns at the end of the row. Is this correct? and if it is do i then take my yarns to peg 1 to start the next row or do i start my next row by turning my board and starting on peg 111 as peg number 1. on my other rows there wasn’t alot of changing colors so i just wraped as i went and didn’t have any issues til now. Normally i never turn my board because i can do it without turning it, to me it is a pain and cumbursome to keep turning it. I would like to see a video of how to do rows 12 and 13 so i can see how you are suspose to do them. it doesn’t have to be a professional video, just take out your cell phone and video tape you doing it. thanks so much i really want this to look as good as the designer’s . This is the nicest afghan that has been posted in a long time and was very expensive since i had to buy the knitting board and the yarn that was a fortune and really don’t want to give up on doing it. thanks again

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Dec 17, 2015

Basic Beanie

basicbeanie

This basic beanie is a great starter project for a beginner, simple and basic. A terrific quick knit, this is a great pattern if you need a last minute gift or two!

Keep it simple or you could get adventurous and do some duplicate stitch designs, or stripes which is a great way to use up leftover yarn!

Day_17

Loom: Hat Loom with extension kit for larger sizes.

Skill Level: Beginner

Sizes :X-small (small, medium, large) to fit average infant (child, woman, man) Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only 1 number is given it applies to all sizes.

 Finished Measurements: Circumference: 13 1/2 (16, 19 1/4, 21 1/2) inches. Height: 7 1/4 (8, 9, 10 1/4) inches with rim unrolled

 Yarn: Worsted weight yarn 200-300 yards. Sample knit in Lion Brand Heartland (worsted weight; 100% acrylic; 251 yds/5 oz per ball): 1 ball Bryce Canyon #130

Gauge: 20 sts and 32 rnds = 4 inches/10cm in St st.

Pattern Note

Please be sure to read all directions before starting to knit. Hat is knit in the round to the crown, then stitches are split into 4 equal sections; the crown is worked as 4 flat wedges that are sewn together.

Instructions

Body

Using the purl cast-on, cast on 68 (80, 96,108) sts; join to work in the round.

Knit all rnds until piece measures 5 1/2 (6, 6 1/2, 7 1/4) inches.

Crown

Transfer 3 groups of 17 (20, 24, 27) sts to separate strands of waste yarn, leaving 17 (20, 24, 27) sts on their pegs.

Wedges

Dec row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of section, k2tog, k1—15 (18, 22, 25) sts in wedge.

Continuing in St st, rep Dec row [every other row] 6 (7, 9, 11) times—3 (4, 4, 3) sts.

Sizes Small (Medium) Only

Next row: K1, ssk, k1—3 sts.

All Sizes

Knit 1 row.

Cut yarn, leaving a 4-inch tail.

Using tapestry needle, thread tail through rem sts, and pull tight

*Transfer another set of 17 (20, 24, 27) sts from waste yarn to pegs. Rep wedge.

Rep from * twice more.

Finishing

Sew crown seams.

Weave in all ends.

Block if desired.

IMG_3785

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Dec 16, 2015

Cool Stripes Skull Cap

sideways hat

Cool Stripes Skull Cap

By Denise Layman

Let’s turn things on their side!! A nice step up from the Basic Beanie, this skull cap uses simple ribbing and variegated yarn to add visual interest.

This is a super fast knit that is fun and easy to memorize!

 Day_16

Materials

Knitting loom: Hat Loom-set to large gauge

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Yarn: Sample worked in: Patons Classic Wool Worsted (worsted weight; 100% wool; 210 yds/100g per ball): 1 ball Wedgewood #77011

Gauge: 14 sts and 23 rows = 4 inches/10cm in Welted pat. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Sizes: X-small (small, medium, large) to fit the average infant (child, woman, man)

Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only 1 number is given it applies to all sizes.

Finished Measurements: Circumference: 14 1/2 (17, 19 1/2, 22) inches; Height: 5 3/4 (6 3/4, 8, 8 1/2) inches

Special Abbreviation

Wrap and Turn (W&T): Work the number of sts indicated in the pattern. Lift up the loop on the next peg and wrap the working yarn around that peg in a clockwise direction. Place the original loop back on the peg, above the new one just made. Then turn to work in the opposite direction and begin the next row on the peg next to the wrapped peg. To hide wraps on subsequent rows: Work to wrapped st. Knit wrap and stitch together.

Welted Pattern (any number of sts)

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: Purl.

Rows 3-6: Rep Rows 1 and 2.

Rows 7-14: Knit.

Rep Rows 1-14 for pat.

Pattern Notes

Hat is worked sideways as a flat piece. Crown is shaped using short rows.

You may want to use a stitch marker on the pegs to mark where your short rows end.

INSTRUCTIONS

Hat

Using the purl cast-on method, cast on 20 (24, 28, 30) sts.

Work short rows in Welted pat as follows:

Row 1: Sl 1, k18 (22, 26, 28), W&T.

Row 2: Purl to last st, k1.

Row 3: Sl 1, k17 (21, 25, 27), W&T.

Row 4: Purl to last st, k1.

Row 5: Sl 1, k16 (20, 24, 26), W&T.

Row 6: Purl to last st, k1.

Row 7: Sl 1, k15 (19, 23, 25), W&T.

Row 8: Knit to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

Row 9: Sl 1, k14 (18, 22, 24), W&T.

Row 10: Knit to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

Row 11: Sl 1, k13 (17, 22, 23), W&T.

Row 12: Knit to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

Row 13: Sl 1, knit to end, hiding extra loops on wrapped pegs when you come to them.

Row 14: Knit to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

Rep [Rows 1-14] 5 (6, 7, 8) more times.

Bind off loosely.

Cut yarn, leaving a 14-inch tail.

Finishing

Block as desired.

Use tail to gather the top edge of the hat at the crown; then sew back seam.

Weave in ends.

 

 

2 Comments

  • Can the AIO or the sock loom be used for this ?

  • The pattern is best made as written, but if you are adventurous and willing to try it you would have to experiment with how many stitches to use and how many repeats of the pattern to make it the size you want. Or you might be able to use it as written if you skip every other peg, or use two pegs as one on the AIO loom.

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Dec 15, 2015

Twirls Wristers

wristers.kim

 

Loom Knitting Advent, day 15, brings you a lovely pair of wristers. Perfect for driving or working at the computer on cold days.  Find the matching Twirls Headband pattern.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 15

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: 32 peg KB loom (Can substitute with All-n-One, or the Sock Loom 2)

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Applewood was used in samples.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: Fits up to a 21” Circumference

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

LT: Left twist: A twist over two pegs; numbered and positioned as follows: Peg 2, Peg 1. How to: Skip peg 1 with yarn behind peg, knit peg 2, take loop off peg 2 and hold it, knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop being held to peg 1.

INSTRUCTIONS

Left Sidewristers tablet

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-14: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 15: *LT, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 16: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 15 and Rnd 16: 14 times

Prepare to work a flat panel from this point forward

Row 17: *LT, p2; rep from * to the end of row.

Row 18: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Rep Row 17 and Row 18: 4 more times.

Continue working in the round from this point forward

Next rnd: *LT, p2; rep from * to the end rnd.

Next rnd: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end rnd.

Rep last two rnds: 1 more time.

Next 8 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * the end of rnd.

Bind off with basic bind off method.  Weave ends in.

Right Side

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-14: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 15: *p2, LT; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 16: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 15 and Rnd 16: 14 times

Prepare to work a flat panel from this point forward

Row 17: *p2, LT; rep from * to the end of row.

Row 18: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.

Rep Row 17 and Row 18: 4 more times.

Continue working in the round from this point forward

Next rnd: *p2, LT; rep from * to the end rnd.

Next rnd: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end rnd.

Rep last two rnds: 1 more time.

Next 8 rnds: *p2, k2; rep from * the end of rnd.

Bind off with basic bind off method.  Weave ends in.

wristers and headband

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 14, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – Peppermint Pinwheel

IMG_3307 (1024x741)

Loom Knitting Advent – Day 14 brings you a sweet little pinwheel design worked in red and white to resemble a peppermint candy.

Designed by Jenny Stark

Day 14

 

Bring a little zing to your holidays with these pretty little peppermint pinwheels.  These delightful little pinwheels look intricate, but they are simple to make and so much fun!

 

Knitting loom: KB Sock Loom EFG

Yarn: Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White, and in Victory Red

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: Approximately 1.75″ in diameter

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

Sl=slip

Techniques

Double E-wrap Cast-On:  Wrap the first peg twice.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower wrap past the upper wrap and over the top of the peg.  Repeat this process for each of the remaining pegs.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Slip:  For the purposes of this project, slip simply means to skip the peg.

Basic Bind Off:  Knit the first two pegs.  Move the stitch from the second peg over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  One stitch has now been bound off. Move the stitch from peg 1 to the empty peg.  This is now peg 1.  Knit the next stitch.  Move the stitch that was just knit over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  Continue working in this manner until there is one stitch left. Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail that is at least 4” long.  Wrap the yarn tail around the last peg.  Knit the last stitch over the yarn tail and pull the yarn tail out through the stitch.  Bind off is now complete.

 INSTRUCTIONS

Begin with the white yarn.  Cast on 6 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Wedge Pattern

Row 1:  Sl 1, K5

Row 2:  P5, K1

Row 3:  Sl 1, K4

Row 4:  P4, K1

Row 5:  Sl 1, K3

Row 6:  P3, K1

Row 7:  Sl 1, K2

Row 8:  P2, K1

Row 9:  Sl 1, K1

Row 10:  P1, K1

Row 11:  Sl 1, K5

The first wedge is now complete.  Drop the white yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Switch to the red yarn.  Beginning on the left side of the knitted work, repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The second wedge is now complete.  Drop the red yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the white yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The third wedge is now complete.  Drop the white yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the red yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The fourth wedge is now complete.  Drop the red yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the white yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The fifth wedge is now complete.  Drop the white yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the red yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The sixth wedge is now complete.  Drop the red yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the white yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The seventh wedge is now complete.  Drop the white yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the red yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The eighth wedge is now complete.  Drop the red yarn to the center of the loom, but do not cut it.

Pick up the white yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The ninth wedge is now complete.  Cut the white yarn, leaving a 4” yarn tail.  Drop the yarn tail to the center of the loom.

Pick up the red yarn.  Repeat rows 2 through 11 of the wedge pattern.  The final wedge is now complete.

Remove the pinwheel from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Cut the red yarn, leaving a 12” yarn tail.  Fasten off.  Using the 12” yarn tail, seam the first wedge and the tenth wedge together.

Weave in all yarn ends.

 

A few ideas for your pretty pinwheels:

  • Add an ornament hanger and put a pinwheel in your Christmas tree.
  • Add a magnet to the back of a pinwheel and stick it on your refrigerator.
  • Add a hair clip to the back of a pinwheel and wear it in your hair.
  • Add a pin finding to the back of a pinwheel and wear it on your clothing.
  • Decorate the top of a Christmas present with a peppermint pinwheel.
  • Decorate the front of a Christmas card with a peppermint pinwheel.
  • Use a pinwheel as an applique in your next knitting project.

 

Want a bigger peppermint pinwheel?  Follow this same pattern using worsted weight yarn on the KB Sock Loom 2:

IMG_3308 (1024x698)

(Larger peppermint pinwheel measures approximately 2.75″ in diameter)

Merry Christmas!

 

4 Comments

  • How cute for my Christmas tree and I am going to make a few for next year to use in place of bows on some special packages. I love, love, luv the idea of the Advent calendar and thank you to all you busy and creative designers (elves) for filling each day with new presents. Have a awesome Holiday and a healthy, happy and safe New Year.

  • I’m so glad you like the peppermints, Cindy :) Wishing you a happy holiday too!

  • This is so adorable! I will be definitely making for next year, not sure if I can fit them in for this year or not.

  • I’m glad you like the little peppermint, Justine. I hope you have fun making them (when you get a chance to try them out). Merry Christmas!

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Dec 13, 2015

Twirls Headband

Twirls Headband

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 13 brings you a lovely headband, perfect accessory for winter wear. The headband sports small stitch twists in the front area of the headband and the back is worked in rib stitch.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 13

Headband

Knitting loom: 32 peg KB loom

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Worsted in Applewood was used in samples.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows= 2 inches in rib stitch

Size: Fits up to a 21” Circumference

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

LT: Left twist: A twist over two pegs; numbered and positioned as follows: Peg 2, Peg 1. How to: Skip peg 1 with yarn behind peg, knit peg 2, take loop off peg 2 and hold it, knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop being held to peg 1.

st(s)=stitches

INSTRUCTIONSTwirls Headband side

Cast on 30 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1-Row 36 (approx. 5 inches): sl1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to the end row.

Row 37: sl1, k1, p2, *LT, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2

Row 38: sl1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to the end.

Rep Row 37 and Row 38: 25 times

Rep Row 1-36.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 16 inch yarn tail.

Mattress stitch cast on edge to bind off edge.  Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Matching Wristers will be posted on Loom Knitting Advent Day 15! Stay tuned! 

Twirls Headband Back

 

2 Comments

  • I have tried this pattern twice now & I don’t get the ridges that are shown in the pattern- what am I doing wrong/ Are the knit stitches perhaps not ewrap??

  • The knit stitches are a “knit stitch” not ewrap. You may substitute with a U-knit stitch. An ewrap will look different and it will create a larger item.

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Dec 12, 2015

Muir Woods Beanie

2015-12-11 23.21.59

Loom Knitting Advent, day 12 brings you the lovely Muir Woods beanie. Inspired by the Muir Woods in California, it brings back memories of the rich nature colors as well as the twisting of the tree branches and how everything in the woods is interrelated.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 12

Materials

Knitting Loom: All-n-One knitting loom. 80 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 180 yards of worsted weight yarn. Malabrigo Rios in Piedras was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: Fits adult size women, circumference approximately 20 inches. To create a smaller/larger size: cast on in multiple of 4 (76, 80, 84, etc).

Gauge: 9sts x 13 rows= 2 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

Sl=Skip peg with yarn behind peg

Rep=Repeat

½ RC=Takes place over 3 pegs, pegs numbered as follows Peg 3, Peg 2, Peg 1 (peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the center, peg 3 on the left). Remove stitches from peg 1 and peg 2 off the knitting loom and place them on a cable needle and set it towards the center of the loom. Knit peg 3 and place it on peg 1. Place the stitches from the cable needle back on the loom as follows, loop that was on peg 1 place it on peg 2, loop that was on peg 2 place it on peg 3. Knit peg 2 and peg 3. (Short version: sl2 to CN, hold to back, k1, k2 from CN)

½ LC=Takes place over 3 pegs, pegs numbered as follows Peg 3, Peg 2, Peg 1 (peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the center, peg 3 on the left). Skip peg 1 with yarn towards the back of the peg, take it to the front of peg 2. Knit peg 2 and 3. Place stitches from peg 2 and peg 3 onto cable needle and hold to the center of the loom. Knit peg 1. Remove stitch from peg 1 and place it on peg 3. Place stitches from the cable needle back on the loom as follows: stitch from peg 2 on peg 1; stitch from peg 3 on peg 2. (Short version: sl1 st to CN, hold to front, k2, k1 from CN)

INSTRUCTIONS

Brim

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-12: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Body

Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 3: *1/2 RC, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 4: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 5 and Rnd 6: *k2, sl1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 7: k1, *k1, ½ LC; rep from * to end of rnd. (On final repeat, work ½ LC on last 2sts of Rnd 7 and first stitch of Rnd 8.

Rnd 8: k to the end of rnd (from peg 2 to the end, you already worked peg 1 on row 7).

Rep Rnd 1-Rnd 8 of Body: 5 more times (or until the hat reaches desired length).

Next 2 rnds: k to the end rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: decrease rnd. Remove all stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Set knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 sts per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

2015-12-11 23.21.27

 

3 Comments

  • I am guessing that this can be done on the KB hat loom set for 80 pins? I think this is a lovely pattern.

  • Yes, you can do it also on the KB Hat loom.

  • Do you happen to have a youtube on this? I am much better seeing how it’s done. :)

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Dec 11, 2015

Zippy Lulu Wrap

Shawl Snugglie.kim

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 11, brings you a lovely Zippy wrap. Worked with super bulky yarn, the Zippy wrap can be worked in less than 2 days!

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 11

Knitting loom: (8) Zippy loom, (4) connectors, (4) corners.

Yarn: Approx 320 yds of Super Bulky yarn. Bernat Mega Bulky yarn was used in sample, 5 skeins in Lino color.

Other: One large button, sample shown with a 2″ diameter button.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 11 rows=4 inches in stockinette

Size: 28L x 40W inches

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

Rep=Repeat

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rem=Remaining

Rep=Repeat

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up knitting loom to 36 pegs in the round. Knitting loom is set up as the picture below.

Loom set up

Cast on 36 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to the end.

Row 2: p to the end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 15 more times (total of 30 rows).

*Next row: k4, bind off 7 sts, k to the end

Next row: p26, cast on 7 stitches using the half hitch technique, p to the end of row.*

Next row: k to the end.

Next row: p to the end.

Rep last two rows: 19 more times (total of 38 rows).

Rep from* to *

Next row: k to the end.

Next row: p to the end.

Rep last two rows: 15 more times (total of 30 rows).

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Sew button in place, at the top corner of the right side of the wrap.


Zippy Wrap (2)

Zippy Vest on Loom

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Dec 10, 2015

Holiday Snowman Square (double knit)

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 10, brings you another lovely double knit square! Frosty the snowman! Add this beautiful intarsia design to any of your double knits!

snowman2s

Day 9

Designed by Pat Novak

Loom: All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Paton’s Classic Wool Roving, 100% wool #5, 120 yds per skein. Hand wash and dry flat. Colors Grey/blue (G), White (W), Cranberry (C), Black (B), Cherry Red (R), Orange (O). 1 skein of G and W yarn and 1 skein B, and ½ skein of C, R, and small amount of O yarn for nose.

Black yarn will need to be of another yarn company. Any wool or blend #5 yarn can be used.

Stitches: Stockinette and back- to- back weave

Notions Needed: Knit hook, crochet hook, large tapestry needle

Size: 10 X 10 inches

Abbreviations: R=right, L=left, Back to back weave=b/b, This is a single pass to cover both pegs of one stitch by wrapping top peg, straight down to bottom peg. See photo at end of instructions.

Pattern Notes:

1-Always start the square at the bottom of the graph, working from L to R. Focus only on that row, until completed.

2-Be sure to start each row with the loom facing you. The cast on yarn tail will be on the left side. Check this before starting a new row, so the design will be correctly applied.

3-If you have a stitch that you want to stand out, such as a snowflake, or the snowman’s eye, you can wrap the pegs with a double wrap.

4-When following the graph on paper, be sure to line-out each row once it is complete. You may also want to fold the printed graph over after each row, so that you are always looking at the current row.  Also, best to number the stitches 1-30 across the bottom.

5-Try to use one continuous stockinette stitch on any color that has several rows, or more than just a few stitches. Then use the b/b wrap on pegs of just a single, or a few stitches.

6-If you carry the main background color throughout the square, it will connect the colors next to it. If you choose to cut separate yarns for each color used, you will need to twist the 2 yarns together at each joint, or cut and tie the colors together.

7-If you have just a few stitches of a color, it is best to cut a piece of the yarn, tie it into the row when needed. Leave it attached until all the stitches are complete for that color, even when it consists of several rows, then you can tie it to adjoining yarn and knot. Example of this would be orange nose of snowman.

8-You can add some accents to the square after it’s complete with some extra stitches, using yarn and tapestry needle, if desired. Example of this would be some falling snow around the snowman.

The (W), and (G), and (C) yarns will be done in stockinette weave, unless otherwise noted. Follow instructions for accent colors of (B), (O), and (R).

Instructions

Cast On 30 stitches in (G) yarn in stockinette. (This row not shown in graph)

Row 1: Cut 2 pieces of (B) yarn, 4’ long, and 2’ long. Tie on the skein at stitch #5, and 4’ one at stitch #27. Set aside the 2′ piece until next row.  Weave each of these stitches with (B) in b/b weave. Tie on (W) yarn at stitch #6. Work stitches 6-26 in stockinette. Complete row in stockinette with (G) yarn on all pegs not covered with accenting yarns by dragging from L side across to peg #28-30. Hook over all.

Row 2: Tie on the 2’ piece of (B) yarn to peg #16 and wrap in b/b. Wrap peg #5 and #27 with (B) yarns attached. Work pegs #6-26 in (W) and complete with (G) on all other pegs in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 3: Tie on (C) yarn at peg #23 and work pegs 23 and 24 in stockinette. Work pegs 5 and 27 with respective black yarns in b/b. Complete row with (W) and (G) yarns, in stockinette, and hook over all.

Row 4: Work pegs 22 and 23 in (C) yarn in stockinette. Work (B) yarns on peg 6, and 26, b/b. Work the center pegs with (W) yarn on pegs 7-25 skipping the pegs wrapped with (C) yarn. Complete row with (G) yarn skipping all pegs already wrapped and hook over all.

Row 5: Work pegs 6, 16, and 26 in respective (B) yarns in b/b each. Work pegs 21-24 in (C) yarn in stockinette. Work (W) pegs in center skipping pegs wrapped in other yarns. Complete with the (G) stitches on pegs 1-5, dragging over to wrap pegs 27-30 in stockinette. Hook over all. Cut and weave in the (B) yarn, center,  at buttons.

Row 6: Work pegs 6 and 26 with respective (B) yarn. Wrap pegs 19-24 with (C) yarn. Complete row, working yarns (W) and (G) in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 7: Work pegs 7 and 25 in (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 16-23 in (C) yarn, stockinette. Work (W) yarn on center stitches 8-24 skipping the (C) stitches. Complete row in stockinette with (G) yarn. Hook over.

Row 8: Work pegs 8 and 24 in (B) yarn, b/b weave. Work pegs 15-20 with (C) yarn. Work pegs 9-23 in stockinette with (W) yarn skipping the pegs with (C) yarn. Work pegs remaining in stockinette with(G) yarn to complete row. Tie and knot (W) yarn. The white snow flakes can be added with (W) yarn when the knitting is complete. Hook over all.

Row 9: Work pegs 9 and 23 with (B) in b/b weave. Work pegs 10-22 in (C) yarn in stockinette. Work pegs remaining with (G) yarn in stockinette. Tie and knot both (B) pieces of yarn and trim tails. Hook over.

Row 10: Work the (C) stitches on pegs 8-24 in stockinette. Work pegs 1-6 and drag to work pegs 25-30 with (G) yarn. Hook over.

Row 11: Work pegs 9-23 in (C) yarn in stockinette. Cut and tie off.  Complete row with (G) yarn and hook over.

Row 12: Tie on (B) (partial skein) yarn at peg #12. Work pegs 13-19 with (B) yarn, b/b weave leaving the yarn at peg 19 to work all R side stitches. Work pegs 1-12 with (G) and drag to pegs 20-30 in stockinette. Hook over all.

Row 13: Tie on remaining skein of (B) yarn to peg #12.  This will be used for all L side stitches.  Tie on (W) yarn at peg 13 to start the snowman’s face. Work pegs 12 and 20 with the (B) yarns in b/b. Work pegs 13-19 with (W) in stockinette. Work pegs 1-11 and drag to pegs 21-30 with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 14: Work pegs 11 and 21 with (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 12-20 with (W) yarn in stockinette. Complete row, with (G) yarn in stockinette on all remaining pegs. Hook over.

Row 15: Work pegs 10 and 22 in (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 11-21 in (W) in stockinette. Complete row with (G) yarn in stockinette on all remaining pegs. Hook over.

Row 16: Tie on bright red (R) yarn at peg #16 and weave stitch , b/b. Work pegs 9 and 23 with (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 10-22 in (W) skipping the (R) stitch. Complete row with (G) yarn on pegs 1-8 and drag to pegs 24-30. Hook over.

Row 17: Work (R) on pegs 15-17 in b/b weave. Work pegs 9 and 23 in (B) yarns. Work pegs 10-23 with (W) skipping the (R) pegs. Complete row with (G) yarn on all remaining pegs and hook over.

Row 18: Work pegs 14-15 and skip over to pegs 17-18 in (R) yarn in b/b. Work pegs 8 and 24 in (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 9-23 with (W) skipping the pegs with (R). Complete row with (G) yarn skipping all the pegs with other colors. Hook over all.

Row 19: Work pegs 12-13 and 19-20 with (R) yarn, b/b. Work pegs 8 and 24 with (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 9-11 and 14-18, and 21-23 with (W) yarn in stockinette. Complete row on remaining pegs with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 20: Work pegs 13 and 19 in (R) yarn, b/b. Work pegs 8 and 24 in (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 9-23 with (W) yarn skipping the (R) pegs. Cut and knot (R) yarn. Compete the row with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 21: Work pegs 8 and 24 with (B) yarns, b/b. Work pegs 9-23 with (W) yarn in stockinette. Complete row with (G) yarn in stockinette.

Row 22: With a piece of (O) Orange yarn aprox 2’ long, tie on at peg #16. Weave stitch with b/b weave. This is the start of Frosty’s nose. Work pegs 7-8 and 24-25 with (B) yarn, b/b. In stockinette work pegs 9-23 with (W) yarn skipping the (O) stitch. Complete the row with (G) yarn in stockinette and hook over.

Row 23: Work pegs 15-17 with (O) yarn, b/b. Work pegs 8 and 24 in respective (B) yarns, b/b. Work in stockinette on pegs 9-23 with (W) yarn skipping the pegs of the nose. Complete the row with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 24: Work peg #16 with (O) yarn, b/b. Work stitches with (B) yarn on pegs 8 and 24. Complete the row working the (W) and (G) yarns. Hook over.

Row 25: Work peg #16 with (O) yarn, b/b. Work pegs 8 and 24 with (B) yarns, b/b. Work center of Frosty with (W) yarn on pegs 9-23 skipping the orange stitch. Cut and knot the (O) yarn. Complete row with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 26: Work pegs 9-10, and 13-14 in 1st (B) yarn on L side. Work pegs 18-19 and 22-23 in (B) yarn from R side, all in b/b weave. Work pegs 11-12, and 15-17, and 20-21 with (W) yarn In stockinette. Complete row with (G) yarn in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 27: Repeat row 26.

Row 28: Work pegs 10 and 14 with (B) yarn from L side. Work pegs 18 and 22 with (B) yarn from R side, b/b. Work (W) yarn on pegs 11-13 and 15-17, and 19-21 in stockinette. Complete row with (G) yarn. Hook over.

Row 29: Work pegs 10-11 with (B) yarn from L side. Work pegs 21-22 with (B) yarn from R side, b/b. Work pegs 12-20 with (W) yarn in stockinette. Complete row with (G) yarn, in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 30: Repeat row 29. Tie off R side (B) yarn. Cut with 2” tail.

Row 31: Drag (B) yarn to peg 7, and work in stockinette from peg 7-25.   Complete row with (G) yarn, in stockinette. Hook over.

Row 32: Repeat row 31.

Row 33: Tie on (R) yarn at peg 13. Weave in stockinette on pegs 13-19. Tie, and knot. Work all other pegs with (G) yarn in stockinette skipping the (R) pegs of the hat. Hook over.

Rows 34-39: Work on pegs 13-19 with (B) yarn in stockinette. Complete each row with (G) yarn in stockinette skipping the (B) yarn.

After completing row 39, tie and knot the (B) yarn.

Row 40: Work in stockinette with (G) yarn. Cut yarn with 3” yarn tail.

Bind off with crochet hook, starting at end opposite the yarn tail, and work with 2-loop method.

Bind off at anchor yarn, starting at end opposite the yarn tail. Remove the anchor yarn. Weave in all yarn tails.

Snowflakes: Using the tapestry needle and (W) yarn, weave to cover each stitch where a snowflake is desired. Carry the yarn between the layers of knit to next location, and weave next snowflake. Only one stitch is needed for each snowflake. Once complete, just trim yarn tail and weave into the knitting.

Mist and lightly block the snowman square for a nice even look.

back to back2

Back to back weave:  White yarn is wrapped from top peg to lower peg in b/b.  The red yarn continues in stockinette stitch.

snowman_graphsm

1 Comment

  • So adorable! Don’t need to wait for snow to build your own “very” cute snowman. Thanks Pat

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Dec 9, 2015

Christmas Stocking Square (double knit)

square_stockingcr

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 9, brings you another lovely double knit square! Add this beautiful intarsia design to any of your double knits!

Designed by Pat Novak

Day 9

Loom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool Roving #5, 100% wool, hand wash and dry flat.  Natural background 1 skein, Dark Green ½ skein, Cherry red ½ skein, Aran white ½ skein, Lion Brand Homespun Holiday Green 5 yds for stripes.

N=natural, S=Spruce green, R=Red, G=green holiday, W=white.

Stitches: Stockinette and back- to- back wrap (similar to Figure 8, but not twisted), covering both front and back pegs of one stitch, working straight across from top peg to lower. Used when a design is only a single stitch or a few stitches. See photo at end of pattern.

Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook #4 or 5, scissors, tapestry needle

Size: 10 X 10 inches completed

Gauge: 4 sts and 5 rows=1 inch

Abbreviations: R=right, L=left, b/b =back to back wrap

 

Pattern Notes:

1.Always start the square at the bottom of the graph, working from L to R. Focus only on that row, until completed.  Be sure to work the graph from Left to Right.

2.Be sure to start each row with the loom facing you. The cast on yarn tail will be on the left side. Check this before starting a new row, so the design will be correctly applied.

3.When following the graph on paper, be sure to line-out each row once it is complete as you work up the graph. You may also want to fold the printed graph over after each row, so that you are always looking at the current row. Re mark the peg numbers.

4.Try to use one continuous stockinette weave on any color that has several rows, or more than just a few stitches. Then use the b/b wrap on pegs of just a few stitches.

5.If you carry the main background color throughout the square, it will connect the colors next to it. If you choose to cut separate yarns for each color used, you will need to twist the 2 yarns together at each joint, or cut and tie the colors together. Example of this is the holly berries on cuff of stocking.

6.If you have just a few stitches of a color, best to cut a piece of the yarn, tie it into the row when needed. Leave it attached until all the stitches are complete for that color, even when it consists of several rows, then you can tie it to adjoining yarn and knot.

Once the square is complete, it is recommended to mist with warm water and block. Allow wool to dry completely before using it in your project.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 30 stitches in natural color (N) in Stockinette stitch.

Rows 1-5: Work in stockinette.

Row 6: For toe and heel areas, cut 2 strands, each 3’ long in (S) color. Tie on one yarn at peg 9, and one at peg 20, between the boards. Tie on the (R) yarn at peg 12.

Work the (S) and (R) stitches in stockinette, twisting them together at the joints. Lay these yarns down. Work the (N) yarn across the stitches in stockinette stitch, starting at peg 1, skip over the (R) and (S) and continue to end of row. Hook bottom loop over on all pegs.

Row 7: Looking at the graph, you see that the (S) sts start 2 pegs before the ones on row 6. Take the (S) and wrap pegs 7, 8, 9 and 10, twist with (R), wrap next 9 pegs with (R), twist, wrap next 4 pegs with the 2nd (S) yarn. Work in stockinette with (N) yarn starting at peg 1 and work over the (S) and (R) yarns to complete the row. Hook over all stitches.

Rows 8-11: Follow the graph working with the (N), (S), and (R) yarns.

Row 12: Cut the 2 (S) yarns leaving about 3” tails. This row is just (N) and (R) yarns. Work the pegs with the (R), and when you get to the (S) yarn tails, tie them on to the (R) to secure. Lay the tails on the knitting with 1” tails. Work the (N) yarn over the entire row in stockinette stitch. Hook over all stitches.

Rows 13-14: Follow graph with (N) and (R) yarns. Do not cut the (R) yarn.

Row 15: On peg 15, tie on the (G) holiday yarn. Work 8 stitches in (G) with b/b knit. Cut and knot. Work the (N) yarn over entire row in stockinette. Hook over.

Rows 16-17: Work the graph with (R) and (N) yarn.

Row 18: On peg 13, tie on (G) yarn and work for 9 sts in b/b knit. Finish the row with (N) yarn in stockinette.

Rows 19-21: Work with (R) and (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 22: With (G) yarn, work in b/b knit for 11 stitches. Cut and knot. Complete the row with (N) yarn in Stockinette.

Rows 23-24: Work the graph with (R) and (N) yarns.

Row 25: Tie on (S) yarn and work in stockinette for 11 stitches. Complete row with (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 26: Work with (R) and (N) yarns. Cut and knot the (R) yarn with 1” tail.

Row 27: Work the graph with (S) and (N) yarns. Cut and knot the (S) yarn.

Row 28: Tie on the (W) yarn at 11th peg for the top of stocking. Work in stockinette for 15 stitches. Complete the row with (N) yarn in stockinette.

Cut 2 pieces of (S) yarn about 3’ long. Cut 2 pieces of (R) yarn about 2’ long.

Row 29: Tie on one (S) yarn at peg 23. Double wrap this peg with (S) in b/b weave. Start the (W) yarn at peg 9 and work in stockinette for 17 stitches, skipping peg 23 where you have placed the (S) yarn. Complete the row with (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 30: Tie in the (S) (2nd piece) on peg 13 and double wrap this peg in b/b weave. Tie on one piece of (R) yarn on peg 23 and double wrap. Double wrap peg 22 and 24 with the (S) yarn in b/b weave. Pick up the (W) yarn and work the pegs skipping over the (R) and (S) stitches in stockinette. Complete the row with (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 31: Tie on the 2nd (R) yarn at peg 13 and double wrap. Wrap all pegs with the (R) and (S) yarn per the graph. Complete the row with (W) yarn and then (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 32: Work the (R) and (S) yarn on pegs for this row. After last (R) stitch, cut and tie the (R) yarn as it is done. Complete row.

Rows 33-36: Follow the graph to complete the (R) and (S) designs. Cut and knot the yarns. Complete the rows with (W) yarn and (N) yarn in stockinette.

Row 37-40: Work all 30 stitches in (N) yarn in stockinette stitch.

Bind off with 2- loop method.

Bind off at anchor yarn and gently remove the anchor yarn. Weave in any yarn tails.

Lightly block the square and it’s ready to be a beautiful holiday accent, scarf, or afghan. You can mix it with other Holiday designs or with solid color ones.

BACK TO BACK WEAVE: Demonstrated with the white yarn. Red yarn is worked in stockinette.

 

 

 

 

 

christmas stocking(graph2)

 

 

2 Comments

  • The pattern chart is not showing up at the end of the pattern.

  • Thank you for letting us know. We have added the graph.

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Dec 8, 2015

Noel Holiday Square (double knit)

 

square_noelcr

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 8, brings you a lovely double knit square that you can incorporate into any double knit item. 

Designed by Pat Novak

Day 8

Loom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool Roving #5, 100% wool, hand wash and dry flat.  Aran 77008, 1 skein, gold 77615, ½ skein, Cherry red and Spruce green, aprox 1/4 skein of each.

(A)= Aran, (G)= Gold, S=Spruce green, R=Red,

 Stitches: Stockinette and Figure8 (if desired) for center section, or b/b weave for some areas of color.

Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook #4 or 5, scissors, tapestry needle

Size: 10″ x 10″ completed

Gauge: 4 sts and 5 rows=1 inch

Abbreviations: R=right, L=left, b/b weave=back to back wrap.  Wrap back and front peg of a stitch by going straight across the loom.  Do not twist the yarn as in Figure8.  See photo at bottom of pattern.

Pattern Notes:

1. Always start the square at the bottom of the graph, working from L to R. Focus only on that row, until completed.  Be sure to work from left side of graph to right side, and from bottom to top following rows.

2. Be sure to start each row with the loom facing you. The cast on yarn tail will be on the left side. Check this before starting a new row, so the design will be correctly applied.

3. When following the graph on paper, be sure to line-out each row once it is complete. You may also want to fold the printed graph over after each row, so that you are always looking at the current row.

4. Try to use one continuous stockinette weave on any color that has several rows, or more than just a few stitches. The center of this square at the Noel rows can be done in Figure8.

5. If you carry the main background color throughout the square, it will connect the colors next to it. If you choose to cut separate yarns for each color used, you will need to twist the 2 yarns together at each joint, or cut and tie the colors together.

6. If you have just a few stitches of a color, it is best to cut a piece of the yarn, tie it into the row when needed. Leave it attached until all the stitches are complete for that color, even when it consists of several rows, then you can tie it to adjoining yarn and knot.

7. Once the square is complete, recommend to mist with warm water and block. Allow wool to dry completely before using it in your project.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 30 stitches in stockinette with (A) yarn.

Rows 1-6:  Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.

Row 7:  Tie on (R) yarn on st 4 and wrap b/b weave on this stitch.  Tie on (S) yarn on st 5 and wrap b/b on stitch 5.  Drag (S) yarn to peg 21-22-23 and wrap b/b.  Work in (A) yarn in stockinette across row skipping the stitches covered with (R) or (S) yarn.  Hook over.

Row 8:  Follow graph.  Wrap pegs 5, 21,22,23 with (R) yarn.  Lay down yarn.  Wrap peg 6, 15-20 and 24 with (S) yarn, in b/b wrap.  Work in (A) yarn in stockinette across row skipping the stitches covered with color yarns.  Hook over all.

Row 9:  Work pegs 7-14 and 25 in (R) yarn, b/b wrap.  Wrap peg 26 with (S) yarn.  Work in (A) yarn in stockinette across row skipping the stitches  covered with color yarns.  Hook over all.

Rows 10-11:  Work 2 rows in A) yarn in stockinette.

Rows 12-26:  Work each row of Noel following the graph.  You can work all rows with Figure8 or work the (G) stitches with b/b and (A) stitches in stockinette.  It is recommended that you continue with the color, now (G) in b/b and the (A) in stockinette as this will give a more uniform appearance.  The sample was done with the Figure8 on all stitches.

Rows 27-31:  Work in stockinette with (A) yarn.

Cut (2) pieces of (S) yarn aprox 3′ long and (2) pieces of (R) yarn aprox 2′ long.

Row 32:  Tie on one piece of (S) yarn at peg 4.  Tie on one piece of (R) yarn at peg 7.  Work pegs 4-5 with (S) yarn, b/b weave.  Work pegs 7-8 with (R) yarn.  Leave the pieces attached.  Work the row in stockinette with (A) yarn skipping the pegs wrapped with the color yarns.  Hook over.

Row 33:  Tie on the 2nd (R) yarn onto peg 25 and weave that peg, b/b.  Tie on the 2nd piece of (S) yarn at peg 27 and weave that peg, b/b.  Lay yarns down.   Work pegs 4,6,8 with 1st (S) yarn.  Work peg 7 with 1st (R) yarn.  Lay yarns down.  Work row with (A) yarn in stockinette skipping all pegs with colors.

Row 34:  Work pegs 5 & 7 with (S) yarn.  Work pegs 8 & 9 with (R) yarn.  Work pegs 24 & 25 witj (R) yarn and work pegs 26 & 28 with (S) yarn.  Lay down all short yarns.  Work row in stockinette with (A) yarn on all stitches not covered with colors.  Hook over.

Row 35:  Work pegs 6 & 8 with (S) and peg 9 with (R) yarn.  Work peg 23 with (R) and pegs 24-25 & 27 with (S) yarns.  Work row in stockinette with (A) yarn on all stitches not covered with colors.  Hook over.  Cut and knot both (R) yarns as they will not be used any further.

Row 36:  Work pegs 5 & 7 with (S) yarn.  Work pegs 23 & 26 with (S) yarn.  Work row in stockinette with (A) yarn on all stitches not covered with colors. Hook over.  Cut and knot 1st (S) color as it will not be used again.

Row 37:  Work pegs 24-25 & 27 with (S) yarn b/b weave.  Work row in stockinette with (A) yarn on all stitches skipping the pegs with color.  Hook over.  Cut and knot the last (S) yarn.

Rows 38-40:  Work rows in (A) yarn in stockinette and hook over.

Bind off with basic 2- loop method.  Weave in yarn tails.

Bind off at anchor yarn with basic 2-loop method or if this is beginning of a scarf or other garment, continue with your choice of colors.

backtoback

BACK TO BACK WEAVE: Demonstrated with the white yarn. The red yarn is worked in stockinette. This basic weave allows for color stitches to be completed in just one pass on the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Noels

2 Comments

  • I’m just loving all of these!

  • That’s great, as we have more coming. Enjoy the season.

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Dec 7, 2015

Stitchology 16 : The Evergreen Stitch

Welcome to the Loom Knitting Advent Day 7…

Evergreen Stitch

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Nothing says winter is upon us like the sight and smell of evergreens.  How appropriate to celebrate the season with a stitch square that echoes those majestic, green forests.  This stitch has some simple twists and 2 over 1 cables, along with a few shaping stitches to help create the illusion of evergreen boughs.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

The Evergreen Square

Evergreen close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in clary)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

There are two ways of creating decreases for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning decrease, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning decrease. For this pattern, they are each combined with a Yarn Over (yo), as seen in Row 9. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one.

[k2tog, yo]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the k2tog peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[ssk, yo]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the ssk peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one.

The cables in this pattern include both 2 peg twists and 3 peg cross overs.

The twists involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[rt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right. Place the held loop onto the peg on the left. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left. Place the held loop onto the peg on the right. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant. So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right. For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

The cables involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a 3 stitch right cable [2/1RC] (a cable with the sts running to the right), and a 3 stitch left cable [2/1LC] (a cable with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

[2/1RC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.

If working from the R-L: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.

If working from the R-L: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you! It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above. I promise! :) )

Row 1: p2, k2, p10.
Row 2: p3, k2, p5, k2, p2.
Row 3: k6, p3, k2, p3.
Row 4: p3, k2, p3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 5: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 6: p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, p1, k6.
Row 7: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 8: p1, k6, p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC.
Row 9: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 10: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 11: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 12: p1, k6, p2, rt2, lt2, p1.
Row 13: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 14: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p1.
Row 15: p2, k2, p4, k4, p2.
Row 16: k2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p4, k2, p2.
Row 17: p9, k2, p3.
Row 18: p3, k2, p9.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Evergreen angleSet Up Rows

Row 1: p40.
Row 2: k40.
Row 3: p40.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4: k2, p3, *k2, p12, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 5: p5, *k2, p5, repeat from * to end.
Row 6: k2, p1, k6, *p3, k2, p3, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 7: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3, k2, p3, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 9: p3, k6, p1, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 10: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, k6, p1, repeat from * once, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p3.
Row 12: repeat row 10.
Row 13: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 14: k2, *p2, k4, p2, k6, repeat from * once, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 15: p4, *lt2, rt2, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, lt2, rt2, p4.
Row 16: k2, p2, *k4, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, k4, p2, k2.
Row 17: p4, *yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p2, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p2, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4.
Evergreen front angleRow 18: k2, p3, *k2, p4, k4, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 19: p5, *k2, p4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p5.
Row 20: k2, p10, k2, p12, k2, p10, k2.
Row 21: p12, k2, p12, k2, p12.
Rows 22-57: repeat rows 4-21.

Finishing Rows

Row 58: k12, p2, k12, p2, k12.
Row 59: p40.
Row 60: k40.
Row 61: p40.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

Day_7

1 Comment

  • That’s pretty sweet!

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Dec 6, 2015

Red Velvet Beanie

2015-12-01 07.52.08 copy

 

Our next Loom Knitting Advent project is a double brim hat!

Shield your ears from the cold with the Red Velvet Beanie, designed with a double brim hat. Designed with a fold over brim that covers the ears with a double layer, perfect for days hitting the powder!

Designed by Isela Phelps

Knitting loom: All-n-One knitting loom (80 pegs).

Yarn: Approx 200 yds of worsted weight merino wool yarn. Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Boysenberry color.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 10 sts x 15 rows=2 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS2015-12-01 07.46.54 copy

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-34 (approx. 5 inches): *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 35: k to the end rnd.

Rnd 36-69 (approx. 5 inches): *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 70-85: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: Decrease rnd: transfer all stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. Reset knitting loom to 40 pegs. Place stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 stitches per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next three rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: Decrease rnd: transfer all stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. Reset knitting loom to 20 pegs. Place stitches back on the knitting loom, placing 2 stitches per peg. K to the end of rnd.

Next two rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Day 6

 

10 Comments

  • How is it, Isela, has gotten MORE beautiful over the years? I’ll have what she’s having, lol!

    Beautiful hat, too!!!

  • Thank you Alyna!

  • How would I Convert this to a1/2 gauge loom? How any pegs?

  • Use the gauge that is provided and then try to match it to your loom. You could also use the regular number of pegs that you use for a hat in your 1/2 gauge and follow the stitch pattern. The stitch pattern is a multiple of 4 (*k2, p2), worked for about 5 inches, then one round of knit, then again the ribbing as in the beginning, except reversed (*p2, k2), knit for 5 inches, then a few rounds in stockinette. Then bind off.

  • TY for responding! Will give it. Try!

  • You’re welcome!

  • i wonder, what CO method did you use?

  • The ewrap cast on. After completing the project, I tightened up the cast on. However, you can use whatever cast on you prefer.

  • did u use regular knit stitch? what do u think about using the uknit? did u reverse rib to p2k2 just for design. thanks

  • Regular Knit Stitch. If you want to substitute with the uknit stitch, you can do it, however, the item may be smaller. The reverse rib (p2,k2) was done so that when you flip over the brim, the knits sit inside the purls of the bottom layer.

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