Jul 6, 2015

Stitchology 11

Flag Stitch

Flag Stitch

Did you all have a fantastic Independence Day Weekend? I couldn’t let this month go by without developing a stitch that at least hinted at a patriotic theme. The Flag Stitch definitely resembles our own stars and stripes, but it is also a wonderfully rhythmic geometric design suitable for pretty much any type of project. Best yet, it is super easy to work up as it consists of only knits and purls—perfect for a quick knit during those hot summer days!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.


Flag Square

Flag Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Berries)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Set Up Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Flag Stitch Chart

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Flags Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Flag Stitch close up

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P39

Row 2:  K39

Row 3:  P39

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  K39

Row 5: P2, k35, p2

Flag Stitch front angleRow 6: K4, p7, *k1, p7, rep from * twice, k4.

Row 7: P2, k8, p1, *k7, p1, rep from * twice, k2, p2.

Row 8:  K4, p1, k3, p3, *k1, p1, k3, p3, rep from * twice, k4.

Row 9:  Rep Row 7

Row 10:  Rep Row 8

Row 11:  Rep Row 5.

Row 12:  K39

Row 13:  P39

Row 14:  K39

Row 15:  P39

Row 16-63:  Rep Rows 4-15

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)


  • Really fantastic square, Bethany! I love the stitch definition in this one.

  • Oh, thank you, Jenny! I do too! :) I have a secret…this was my second try at a square this month, as the first one just didn’t have the definition I was going for. I’m so glad this one was a success and I didn’t have to try for a third, lol!

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Jul 3, 2015

Green Mountain Jazz Jacket (double knit)

Casual and Comfy as a shawl, but this little jacket hugs your body and creates just enough warm where you need it most. Easy to knit in just 2 pieces. Have some fun with a little color work.


Loom: All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit at 1cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Swish Worsted, 100% Superwash Merino Wool.110 yards per skein. Machine wash and low dry. Colors-Dove Heather (D), 6 skeins, Cornmeal (Y) 1.5 skeins, Lemongrass Heather (B), 1.5 skeins, Rainforest Heather (G), 1.5 skeins.

Size: One size fits youth to most adults. Easy fit.

Stitches: Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Large darning needle, (1) button, (1”wide) for front closing.

Gauge: In Stockinette- 7 stitches X 9 rows=2 inches



Notes: Front of sweater is made as a shawl in one rectangular piece. If you want to have just a long rectangular shawl, increase the center (D) section by additional 26 rows before doing the other 2 multi-color designs. This will result in a 60” long shawl.

Back of sweater is knit as a square and sewn onto the back of sweater front.


Cast On full loom of 48 double stitches in Stockinette stitch using (D) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch.

Change to stockinette stitch and work (7) rows.

Change to rib stitch and work (5) rows.

Next row: Work button hole on stitch # 5-6. Work row in rib.

Work 1 row in rib stitch.

Cut and knot the (D) yarn.

Button Hole: Lift loop off peg #5 and place on peg #6. Do this to both boards. Weave the row in rib stitch on all pegs. When hooking over, lift both lower loops over on peg #6 and do nothing to peg #5. Next row, weave in rib stitch on all pegs. Hook over regular all pegs.

Work the Design section. Tie on a new color at 2nd stitch.

Design Section of 3 Colors:










The 3 color design is a series of 7, 5, 3, and 1 stitch of color rotating with another color. It is all done in Stockinette stitch. If you are doing 1 or 3 stitches of the color, work those stitches front to back. Then pick up other color and weave in Stockinette stitch. When you change to doing 5 or 7 stitches of a color, change to stockinette and do the other one front to back.

Start the design with (3) rows of (B) yarn. Tie on the (Y) yarn and work the design for (5) rows. After the 5 rows of the (Y) design are worked, tie and knot (B) yarn and work (3) rows of (Y) yarn only. Add the (G) yarn to next row. Work the (4) rows of design with (G) yarn. Tie and knot the (Y) yarn. Continue with (G) yarn only for another 5 rows.

After completing the Design Section, tie and knot the (G) yarn and tie on the (D) yarn.

Work in Stockinette stitch for (20) rows. Tie and knot the (D) yarn.

Change to the (B) yarn, and repeat the Design section.

After completing the 2nd design section, you are ready to do the back area of the sweater front.

Tie on the (D) yarn. Work a total of (59) rows starting with (7) rows* in rib stitch. Change to stockinette stitch and work (6) rows*.

Repeat these (13) rows* additional (3) times. Work 1 more section of rib stitch for (7) rows. The back section will be approximately 13” X 13” in size.

Work the Design section in reverse by starting with the (G) yarn.

Work another section of Stockinette stitch for (20) rows in (D) yarn.

Work the Design section in reverse by starting with the (G) yarn. Once complete, tie on the (D) yarn again.

Final section repeats the first section of (7) rows of rib stitch, (7) rows of Stockinette stitch, and (7) rows of rib stitch. This is all done in (D) yarn. Do not repeat the buttonhole.

Do a loose 2 stitch bind off at both ends for front piece. Go over the entire piece and check for yarn tails at the color changes. Make sure they are knotted securely, trim and tuck into the knit. Remove anchor yarn.

Back of Jacket:


Cast On in stockinette stitch (48) stitches with (D) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch.

Work (7) rows in Stockinette stitch.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch. Cut and tie (D) yarn

Work the Design section.

Complete the back with (D) yarn working (21) rows.

This is (7) rows of rib stitch, (7) rows in Stockinette stitch, and (7) rows in rib stitch.

Bind Off of loom in this manner.

Move all loops on one board to other board so that there are 2 loops on just one board and the other is empty. Work all the pegs by lifting bottom loop over top. You now have one loop on all pegs of one board.

Bind off this board in 2 loop method as before. This edge will be sewn to the back section of the sweater front.



Use matching yarn for sewing the back to front across back. Do this with invisible stitch. The top of the back piece will fit exactly to the width of the center of front piece, matching the (D) color sections.

When you sew the sides, you want to match up the design colors. For a smaller fit, sew the side seam from hem edge thru the design section. For a looser fit with more relaxed arm openings, just sew up the bottom (D) color section. Match the buttonhole with the correct location for the button and sew with matching yarn.

Your little wrap/jacket is ready to wear with just a turtleneck and jeans, or over your favorite little skirt and leggings.









  • I have an eighteen inch knittingboard loom with the metal pins. Would this pattern work on it and would I use the half inch spacer?

    Thank you.

  • Would it be possible to see a picture of the back of the jacket after it has been seemed?

    Thank you.

  • Hi Karen, If your knitting board has min of 48 stitches, it should work just fine. You may want to knit a bit and see if the 1/2″ spacer results with the same gauge or similar.

  • This is stunning, Pat! Excellent design! :)

  • I have a quick question. Why does the center portion of my double knitting arch upwards from the bottom instead of staying square.

    I have restarted this pattern about 3 times now trying to figure out what or if I am doing something wrong.

    Thanks for the help and the patterns

  • That is beautiful and I love it and plan on making it

  • This is a lovely project, Pat! Beautiful colorwork, too.

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