Jan 15, 2016

Winter Dawn Beanie

Winter Dawn Beanie Model 2

Winter dawn skies are spectacular to behold with deep blues and the hint of sunshine rays peeking through giving the sky a wonderful purple hue. 

At the start of 2016, our focus is going to be in simple, beginner patterns. These patterns will evolve into more intermediate level by the middle of the year, then tackling some advanced patterns by the end of the year.

Knitting loom: Hat loom, set at large gauge, 40 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 75 yds of super bulky merino wool. Malabrigo Rasta in Abril was used in sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 4sts x 10 rows = 2 inches

Size: Fits adult female | head circumference up to 21″



K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off




Set knitting loom, to large gauge at 40 pegs.

Cast on 40 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-Rnd 6: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 7: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8: *p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 7 and 8: until item measures 7.5 inches from cast on edge (approx 30 rnds).

Next rnd: Move the loop from every “even” peg to its neighbor “odd” peg (from 4 to 3, from 2 to 1, etc). k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather removal method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.


Winter Dawn Beanie 2


  • Such a cute hat! I love the texture. I can’t wait to see what patterns you have in store for us the rest of the year. I just got my All-n-One and I can’t wait to use it.

  • Ditto to Colleen Shuman….
    Thank you so much for all your work Isella ,, this pattern is really cute ! <3

  • So, I am new to loom knitting ( I knit with needles). So, if I am going to purchase 1 loom for these upcoming projects, which one would be the most versatile?

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

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Jan 11, 2016


January slinks along, dragging her cold, gray days along like a dreary cloak- blanketing everything in ashen shades.  She dulls the sun and frosts the air with ice.  Ah, but a closer look yields a secret beauty.  A faint shimmer here, a glittering dusting there – luminescence!  Capture a bit of this luminous beauty with this double knit wreath project.


Knitting Loom: KB 32 peg loom

Yarn: 130 yards of Buttercream Alpaca Solid in Gray.

80” of a worsted weight yarn in a similar color.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors, glue gun and glue.

Additional Materials: 16” Floracraft Foam Wreath

9 yards of 1 ½ inch wide sheer ribbon in silver (Offray Aria was used for the sample)

1 focal piece/item (6” Silver Satin Bird Clip by Touch of Nature was used for the sample)

any additional embellishments desired (2 Victoria Lynn Pearl Rhinestone Accent Picks were used for the sample)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: approximately 16” in diameter


HS st – Half Stockinette Stitch

l – left

r – right


Modified Figure 8 Cast-On:  Starting on the left side, place a slip knot on the first peg of the lower board.  Bring the working yarn up to the second peg on the upper board.  Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.

IMG_3341 (800x406)

Take the working yarn down to the third peg on the lower board.  Wrap the peg in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3342 (800x412)

Take the working yarn up to the fourth peg on the upper board.  Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.

IMG_3343 (800x403)

Continue working in this manner until the desired number of peg pairs (stitches) have been wrapped.

IMG_3344 (800x405)

Complete the cast on by wrapping the knitting board in HS st, r-l.  Knit the pegs that have 2 wraps on them.  (This counts as row 1 for this project).


          Half Stockinette Stitch:  The Half Stockinette Stitch (HS st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  One peg is skipped between each wrap.  These skipped pegs will remain empty while working in HS st.  Also, in this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.


Wrapping in HS st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

IMG_3345 (800x438)


Wrapping in HS st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

IMG_3346 (800x430)

Work back and forth across the board in HS st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.


          Bind Off:  Working yarn should be at the right hand side of the knitting board/loom.  Pick up the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board and move it backward to peg 2 of the upper board, above the stitch on this peg.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.  (This peg will now be empty.)

Move the stitch forward to peg 3 of the lower board, above the stitch on this peg.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Move the stitch backward to peg 4 of the upper board.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Move the stitch forward to peg 5 of the lower board.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.

Continue working back and forth across the knitting board until the last peg has two stitches on it.  Pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.  Replace this stitch on the peg and gently pull on the working yarn to ease out any excess slack.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 5” length.  With the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the last stitch.  Remove the stitch from the peg and gently pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure the last bound stitch. 


Knitted Wreath Covering:

Cast on 7 pairs of pegs using the modified figure 8 cast on method.

Row 1:  Work in HS st, l-r.

Row 2:  Work in HS st, r-l.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until knitted piece measures 50.5 inches in length.  Bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.



Thread the yarn needle with the worsted weight yarn.  Lay the wreath form down on a flat surface and slip the knitted wreath covering underneath the wreath

IMG_3348 (800x600)

Wrap the knitted wreath covering around the wreath form and begin sewing it in place.  (This will be the back of the wreath, so any seaming method will work.)

IMG_3350 (600x800)

Continue working around the entire wreath, wrapping and seaming the knitted wreath cover in place.  Once the entire wreath has been covered, take a moment to straighten the knitted wreath cover, then seam the ends together.

IMG_3352 (600x800)

Once the ends have been seamed together, weave in the yarn ends and get ready to have a little fun embellishing!



Plug in the glue gun so it will be warming up.  Cut two pieces of ribbon:  a 10” length and an 18” length.  Glue one end of the 18” length to the back of the wreath, covering the joining seam of the knitted wreath cover.

IMG_3353 (800x600)

Take the 10” length of ribbon and glue the ends together, creating a loop.

IMG_3354 (800x600)

Feed the 18” length of ribbon through the loop that was just created, then wrap it around the top of the wreath and glue in place on the back of the wreath.

IMG_3355 (600x800)

With the remaining ribbon, create a bow and glue it to the ribbon wrapped at the top center of the wreath.

IMG_3356 (800x600)

Add a focal piece, if desired.

IMG_3359 (800x600)

Add additional embellishments, if desired (ie – floral pins, floral picks, beads, buttons, feathers, twine, ribbon, flowers, etc)

IMG_3360 (600x800)


Now, go find the perfect spot to hang your beautiful wreath!


(ps – not in love with the monochromatic look?  Try this project using your favorite colors)

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Jan 4, 2016

Stitchology 17: Triple Slip Rib

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Triple Slip Rib side angle

Now that the holidays have passed and all the rush and hurry is behind us, it’s time to work up a stitch on our looms that doesn’t take too much thinking or tricky finger-work to accomplish.  This stitch pattern is just the ticket!  It is a simple 8 row repeat and once you get the hang of them, they can be worked entirely from memory.  The long alternating dashes resemble a nice rustic weave, and results in a fairly thick and sturdy panel.  It would be a perfect stitch for a cowl or scarf, or even an entire blanket!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Triple Slip Rib Square

Triple Slip Rib Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.  This stitch pattern will do this in groups of three stitches at a time.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Chart Key AF & TSR

Repeating Pattern Rows

Triple Slip Rib StitchTriple Slip Rib close

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k1, p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p1, WYIF-3.
Rows 5 & 6: repeat Row 1.
Row 7: repeat Row 4.
Row 8: repeat Row 3.


Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Triple Slip Rib Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p39.
Row 2: k39.
Row 3: p39.
Row 4: k39.

Triple Slip Rib front angleMain Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, *p2, k1, repeat form * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: p3, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p1, k2.
Row 9 & 10: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 11: p4, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 12: k2, p2, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 13-60: repeat Rows 5-12 6 more times.
Row 61 & 62: repeat Rows 5 & 6.

Finishing Rows

Row 63: p39.
Row 64: k39.
Row 65: p39.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)


  • Please we want videos because im biggener

  • Hello Eman :) I’m so glad you’ve joined the wonderful world of loom knitting! We are working on developing video tutorials on some of these stitches. A few of them have been completed and are located at the regular website here: http://knittingboard.com/

    But, let’s see if we can’t get you going on this stitch in the meantime. It is really quite a simple square, I promise! When you are reading the pattern instructions for the square, what exactly is it that you don’t understand so I can help you better??

    Bethany ~

  • Looks like you can also find the stitch videos on KB’S YouTube Channel here:

  • Hi Bethany,

    thank you for your great work every month, it’s really appreciated! One question please, would this stitch pattern curl if the border is not used? I would like to use it on an infinity scarf but I am not fond of the border.


  • Oh, thank you so much, Brunella! I appreciate the appreciation, lol! :D

    I believe that since this pattern combines knits and purls fairly evenly, it will lay pretty flat even without the border. It felt nice and sturdy while knitting it up, so I’m pretty sure you’ll be fine. The backside looks like a simple 2 x 1 ribbing, so it would be fine seeing it from both sides as well.

    I’d love to see your scarf when it’s all done! :D

  • thank you for your reply! I am planning to start shortly.. as soon as I finish at least one WIP!

  • Bethany, I thank you very much for all of the wonderful patterns you create and share with us. I am using the All-in-One Loom to make the Stitchology Squares ( I am so excited to try each and every one, just beautiful!!!). But, I am following the directions, use the cast on you suggest, true knit and purl stitches and a #4 worsted weight yarn. My squares are wider than yours but not 8 inches high so turn out more like a rectangle shape. What am I doing wrong? Sure would appreciate your ideas.

    Thank you,

  • Hi Marilyn! :) I’m so excited to hear you’ve been following along and making squares with us! The more the merrier, right?? :D

    As for the square not coming out even, blocking really helps with this. If you are using a wool, or a mostly wool blend, blocking should be a snap. The process helps train those fibers to reset into the shape you desire. I like to use a foam pad onto which I have marked an 8 x 8 inch square with a permanent marker…this makes it so easy to stretch the wet square to the proper size.

    Now, if you are consistently on every square coming up short, you may just need to add a couple border garter rows on both the top and bottom. Or if you need to do another repeat of the pattern itself, that would be fine too. Everybody knits at varying gauges, so this may just be something you need to address with added rows. Or…you could add enough rows to make your squares actually squares, then block to a bigger measurement so that they will all be the same, just larger than the original 8 x 8. That’s totally acceptable either way! :)

    I hope this helps you…Happy stitching!

  • Thank you! Those are wonderful suggestions as I plan to make an afghan using all of your different square patterns and I feel so much better knowing there is a way to “remedy” the size/shape of the way mine are turning out. I really appreciate your help Bethany.


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Dec 25, 2015

Mister Quinzee

Loom Knitting Advent, day 25 brings you one last loom knitting surprise: Mister Quinzee, a fun little ‘snowman’ with a hollow core, perfect for storing a little bit of holly-jolly!

Designed by Jenny Stark


Mister Quinzee

A quinzee is a simple shelter made by hollowing out a pile of settled snow.  It is simpler than an igloo, yet it is an effective way to stay warm if you are out in the winter elements for very long.  The instructions for this project won’t help you create a winter shelter, but they will help you create an adorable snowman with a hollow ‘shelter’ for your favorite goodies or trinkets.

IMG_3327 (772x1024)

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom

Yarn: Hat: Red Heart Stellar in Celestial.

Head: Bernat Baby Blanket in White.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle with large eye, scissors, 4” x 4” round paper mache box with lid, LaMode button set #2010, glue gun and hot glue, pencil, blush (optional).

Size: Approximately 7″ tall (excluding pom-pom)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.


K = knit stitch

P = purl stitch


Double E-wrap Cast-On:  Wrap the first peg twice.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower wrap past the upper wrap and over the top of the peg.  Repeat this process for each of the remaining pegs.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Basic Bind Off:  Knit the first two pegs.  Move the stitch from the second peg over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  One stitch has now been bound off. Move the stitch from peg 1 to the empty peg.  This is now peg 1.  Knit the next stitch.  Move the stitch that was just knit over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  Continue working in this manner until there is one stitch left. Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail that is at least 4” long.  Wrap the yarn tail around the last peg.  Knit the last stitch over the yarn tail and pull the yarn tail out through the stitch.  Bind off is now complete.

Gathered Bind Off:  Loosely wrap the working yarn in a circle around all of the pegs that have stitches – two times.  This will ensure that the yarn tail is long enough to complete the bind off.  Cut the working yarn, then unwrap the long yarn tail from around the pegs.  Lay the yarn tail below the stitch on peg 1.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  *Lay the yarn tail below the next stitch.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  Repeat from * for all stitches on the loom.  Once all stitches have been bound, remove the knitting from the loom.  Pull on the yarn tail to cinch the opening closed (unless otherwise directed by the pattern being worked).  Bind off is now complete.

Pom-pom:  Lay the yarn across the palm of your hand.  Wrap the yarn around the hand about 20-25 times.  Slide the wraps off of the hand, keeping them pinched together at the center.  Take a separate length of yarn and tie it very tightly around the center of the pom-pom.  Knot it securely.  With scissors, cut the loops at each end of the pom-pom.  Be careful not to cut the center strand that holds the pom-pom together.  Fluff the pom-pom and trim any longer strands, if needed.  Use the yarn ends from the center tie to attach the pom-pom to the project.


Loom Set up:

For this project, you will need

  • Two 25 peg rounded loom pieces
  • Two 3 peg connectors
  • 28 pegs

Combine the rounded loom pieces with the connectors to create an oval loom.  Place the pegs in the loom, skipping every other hole.  The loom is now set up to knit in large gauge, in the round.  It should look like this:

IMG_3315 (800x523)

This set up is used throughout the project.  You are now ready to begin knitting.


With the Red Heart Stellar, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rounds 1-8:  K2, P2 to the end of the round.

Rounds 9-35:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the hat from the loom using the gathered bind off method.  If desired, create a pom-pom and attach it to the top of the hat.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set hat aside for now.


With the Bernat Baby Blanket, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

 Rounds 1-20:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the head from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set head aside for now.


Plug in the hot glue gun and let it warm up.  Pick up the round paper mache box.  With the lid on the box, use the pencil to trace a line around the perimeter of the container, just below the lip of the lid.

IMG_3316 (600x800)

Remove the lid from the box and set it aside for a moment.  Slip the knitted head piece onto the box, like a sleeve, lining the bind off edge up with the pencil line on the container.

IMG_3317 (653x800)

Using the hot glue gun, carefully glue the bind off edge of the knitted head sleeve to the paper mache box.

Next, wrap the cast on edge of the knitted head sleeve down around the bottom of the container, gluing it in place with the glue gun.

IMG_3320 (742x800)

Remove the button set from its packaging and glue the buttons to the front of the container.  (I started with the carrot/nose, then added the button eyes above it.)

IMG_3322 (936x1024)

Add blush to Mister Quinzee’s face, if desired.

Fill the paper mache box up with some sort of wonderful, then place the lid back on the container.  Slip the knitted hat on over the lid and pull it down until it rests just above Mister Quinzee’s eyes.  So cute!

Wishing much warmth and happiness to each of you this Winter!


  • I would like to give a a great big applaud to all the designers of this 25 day advent calendar patterns Fantastic job on all the selections used in this project.

  • What a cutie, Jenny!! That face is simply adorable!

  • I’m going through pattern withdrawal! I loved the advent patterns!!! Thank you for providing them!!!!!!!

  • I just wanted to say what a cute pattern and idea to make where you can place homemade cookies or fudge,candies to gift to friends they can eat th goodies then after finished they can use the knitted container for decoration to set out every Christmas and you could use the container and knitted holiday slevees and make like a pumpkin or Turkery , easter bunny, valetine , fourth of July or a birthday cake sleeves for all the different holidays just use our imaginations this would be a awesome gift to share with friends and family love the 25 days of Advent calendar knitted patterns Thank you to all of you came up with all these great knitted patterns .

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Dec 24, 2015

Zippy Foot Pouf

Zippy Foot Pouf  3Loom Knitting Advent, day 24 of brings you a wonderful addition to your home decor: the Zippy Foot Pouf!

Designed by Bethany Dailey

I have always loved the look of those oversized knitted foot poufs that seem to fairly scream, “I’m cushy and soft, and your house will be so much more cozy with me in it!”  Well, as soon as the Zippy looms came into being, I knew that recreating one of those adorable foot stools was now a possibility!  Another fun thing about this project is that it will give you the opportunity to put those tired linens you may have hanging around your house to good use…what a terrific way to upcycle, right?


Knitting loom:  (5) Zippys and connectors (or 20 peg equivalent if using the Zippy Corners).

Yarn:  Red Heart Grande (46 yrds per skein), super bulky #6 weight: approx 9 skeins (in color: currant)  **Note: this yarn is very bulky for a #6…almost rope-like.  If you substitute a yarn of a thinner width, you’ll possibly need to hold 2 strands as one throughout to get the desired thickness for the project.

Notions:  loom tool, 6.5mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, wide eye yarn needle, row counter, knitting pins,  removeable stitch markers or bits of scrap yarn, one large decorative button (if desired), stuffing of choice (see Pattern Notes for more details on this).

Gauge: 6 stitches and 9.5 rows per 4”

Zippy Foot Pouf topPouf Measurements: (**All measurements given are before stuffing…once the item is stuffed firmly the measurements will inflate.)

Circumference: approx 62.75″

Diameter approx :20″

Height: approx 13.5″

Skills Needed: U-Stitch, E-wrap, Purl, Slip, Wrap & Turn,  CO of your choice, and Basic BO, Seaming Skills.


CO=cast on

S1=slip one stitch (do not knit it, carry working yarn behind peg)

K=knit (pattern uses U-stitch)

P=purl stitch

KO=knit off


WY=working yarn

W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.)

BO=Bind off

Pattern Notes:

As this is working with very large pegs, knit with a snug (yet not too tight) tension throughout.  Using the U-stitch as knits helps achieve a fabric that is not too holey for your finished pouf.

Notes on Stuffing: This project allows you to use those tired, worn out linens, duvets, and pillows you may have lying around the house, but don’t have a use for. If you are quicker than me about destashing cupboards and don’t already have these items, lol, a trip to the second hand store of your choice would be a very inexpensive way to aquire a good selection.  Make sure that you have laundered all items before using to stuff your pouf. You will need a pretty good stack of sheets, blankets, etc, to get a firm pouf that will easily support your feet.  The sample uses 2 fiberfill pillows propped up on their sides and rolled together in the center, with all the blankets and sheets wrapped evenly around them to fill out the pouf.

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Working with the Half Hitch:  https://youtu.be/a8aWyT4sc4w

Working a Wrap & Turn: https://youtu.be/5e3J0fuYz-U  (shown at 2:20 in tutorial)


Top & Bottom:  (Make 2)

Connect 3 Zippy looms together for a total of 12 pegs.  CO to all 12 pegs.

Prepare to create a series of 8 short row wedges.

Step 1:  S1, K1, W&T peg 3.

Step 2:  K2 back to peg 1.

Step 3:  S1, K2 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 4.

Step 4:  K3 back to peg 1.

Step 5:  S1, K3 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 5.

Step 6:  K4 back to peg 1.

Step 7:  S1, K4 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 6.

Step 8:  K5 back to peg 1.

Step 9:  S1, K5 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 7.

Step 10:  K6 back to peg 1.

Step 11:  S1, K6 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 8.

Step 12:  K7 back to peg 1.

Step 13:  S1, K7 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 9.

Step 14:  K8 back to peg 1.

Step 15:  S1, K8 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 10.

Step 16:  K9 back to peg 1.

Step 17:  S1, K9 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 11.

Step 18:  K10 back to peg 1.

Step 19:  S1, K10 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 12.

Step 20:  K11 back to peg 1.

Step 21:  S1, K11 (on 12th peg KO 2 sts over 1).

Step 22:  S1, P10, K1.

Repeat Steps 1-22 seven more times to create a total of 8 wedges– except on Step 22 of 8th wedge.

Step 22 of 8th Wedge:  This will be the BO row.  Use the BBO, but purl all sts, rather than knitting them as follows:

  • Slip peg 12, purl peg 11,
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 12, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 11,
  • Purl peg 10,
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 10…
  • Repeat steps until last loop has been bound off,
  • Leave any length of yarn in place without cutting…this will be used during the assembly of the pouf later.

Using yarn tail, seam up BO and CO edges, moving toward the center of circle.  Gather the loose stitches at the inside of center and cinch tightly.  Knot and trim.  If desired, a large, decorative button can be sewn to the circle which will be the top of the pouf.

To achieve a flat and uniform shape, block circles lightly.



Connect 5 Zippy looms together for a total of 20 pegs (alternatively, 4 Zippy looms and 4 corners could also be used).  CO to all 20 pegs to work as a flat panel.

Rows 1-17: Repeat the following 2 row pattern (Row 17 ends with A):

A- K1, P1, K1, P1, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1.

B- K2, P1, K1, P1, K10, P1, K1, P1, K2.

Row 18:  Work Row B above, but on the first and last loop of the row, add either a removable stitch marker, or a small piece of scrap yarn as a place holder.

Repeat Rows 1-18 seven more times. (144 rows total)

BBO all sts.  Leave a long tail for seaming sides together.


Stitch the CO edge to the BO edge. (Sample uses mattress stitch, but feel free to use the seaming technique most comfortable.)

Using the knitting pins, secure the bottom of the pouf to the sides.  Match the markers used on each 18th row of the sides to the long lines of the pouf. This will aid in keeping the pieces lined up correctly while seaming.  Using the long BO tails, seam the bottom to the sides.

Begin adding the stuffing to the pouf (see Pattern Notes for more instructions).  Start with the rolled, on-edge pillows, then wrap blankets and sheets, etc snuggly around them.  Keep building from the bottom to the top, until even with the pillows’ top edges.  Keep pulling the sides and bottom of the pouf up around the stuffing to create a firm base and sides.  The idea is to create a firm cylinder of stuffing that doesn’t bulge outward when pushed down upon.

Repeat the same procedure with the top piece of the pouf as used for seaming the bottom.  Stop before seaming all the way to adjust stuffing as necessary, or to add additional items to fill out pouf.  Once the pouf is smoothly stuffed, complete the seaming process.  Pull all tails to the inside.

Now, pull up a chair, grab your favorite read, and …





  • What a clever and lovely design for a gift or for your own home. Love it!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jacquelyn! :) It works up pretty quickly, too…love those Zippys!

  • Fantastic design, Bethany! I can definitely see one of these in my future.

  • Oh, thank you, Brenda! I really love how it turned out…really enjoy those big knits! :) I would love to see yours when you get it finished!

  • I don’t have a zippy loom yet, but now I want to buy one just for this project. I really want to make this cute pouf now! I love it Bethany!

  • Squeee! :D I love it when something is born from my looms that makes others want to join in and make it too. Thanks so much, Colleen! :)

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