Dec 25, 2015

Mister Quinzee

Loom Knitting Advent, day 25 brings you one last loom knitting surprise: Mister Quinzee, a fun little ‘snowman’ with a hollow core, perfect for storing a little bit of holly-jolly!

Designed by Jenny Stark

Day-25-300x300

Mister Quinzee

A quinzee is a simple shelter made by hollowing out a pile of settled snow.  It is simpler than an igloo, yet it is an effective way to stay warm if you are out in the winter elements for very long.  The instructions for this project won’t help you create a winter shelter, but they will help you create an adorable snowman with a hollow ‘shelter’ for your favorite goodies or trinkets.

IMG_3327 (772x1024)

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom

Yarn: Hat: Red Heart Stellar in Celestial.

Head: Bernat Baby Blanket in White.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle with large eye, scissors, 4” x 4” round paper mache box with lid, LaMode button set #2010, glue gun and hot glue, pencil, blush (optional).

Size: Approximately 7″ tall (excluding pom-pom)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Abbreviations:

K = knit stitch

P = purl stitch

Techniques

Double E-wrap Cast-On:  Wrap the first peg twice.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower wrap past the upper wrap and over the top of the peg.  Repeat this process for each of the remaining pegs.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Basic Bind Off:  Knit the first two pegs.  Move the stitch from the second peg over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  One stitch has now been bound off. Move the stitch from peg 1 to the empty peg.  This is now peg 1.  Knit the next stitch.  Move the stitch that was just knit over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  Continue working in this manner until there is one stitch left. Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail that is at least 4” long.  Wrap the yarn tail around the last peg.  Knit the last stitch over the yarn tail and pull the yarn tail out through the stitch.  Bind off is now complete.

Gathered Bind Off:  Loosely wrap the working yarn in a circle around all of the pegs that have stitches – two times.  This will ensure that the yarn tail is long enough to complete the bind off.  Cut the working yarn, then unwrap the long yarn tail from around the pegs.  Lay the yarn tail below the stitch on peg 1.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  *Lay the yarn tail below the next stitch.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  Repeat from * for all stitches on the loom.  Once all stitches have been bound, remove the knitting from the loom.  Pull on the yarn tail to cinch the opening closed (unless otherwise directed by the pattern being worked).  Bind off is now complete.

Pom-pom:  Lay the yarn across the palm of your hand.  Wrap the yarn around the hand about 20-25 times.  Slide the wraps off of the hand, keeping them pinched together at the center.  Take a separate length of yarn and tie it very tightly around the center of the pom-pom.  Knot it securely.  With scissors, cut the loops at each end of the pom-pom.  Be careful not to cut the center strand that holds the pom-pom together.  Fluff the pom-pom and trim any longer strands, if needed.  Use the yarn ends from the center tie to attach the pom-pom to the project.

Instructions

Loom Set up:

For this project, you will need

  • Two 25 peg rounded loom pieces
  • Two 3 peg connectors
  • 28 pegs

Combine the rounded loom pieces with the connectors to create an oval loom.  Place the pegs in the loom, skipping every other hole.  The loom is now set up to knit in large gauge, in the round.  It should look like this:

IMG_3315 (800x523)

This set up is used throughout the project.  You are now ready to begin knitting.

Hat:

With the Red Heart Stellar, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rounds 1-8:  K2, P2 to the end of the round.

Rounds 9-35:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the hat from the loom using the gathered bind off method.  If desired, create a pom-pom and attach it to the top of the hat.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set hat aside for now.

Head:

With the Bernat Baby Blanket, cast on 28 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

 Rounds 1-20:  K to the end of the round.

Remove the head from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Set head aside for now.

Finishing:

Plug in the hot glue gun and let it warm up.  Pick up the round paper mache box.  With the lid on the box, use the pencil to trace a line around the perimeter of the container, just below the lip of the lid.

IMG_3316 (600x800)

Remove the lid from the box and set it aside for a moment.  Slip the knitted head piece onto the box, like a sleeve, lining the bind off edge up with the pencil line on the container.

IMG_3317 (653x800)

Using the hot glue gun, carefully glue the bind off edge of the knitted head sleeve to the paper mache box.

Next, wrap the cast on edge of the knitted head sleeve down around the bottom of the container, gluing it in place with the glue gun.

IMG_3320 (742x800)

Remove the button set from its packaging and glue the buttons to the front of the container.  (I started with the carrot/nose, then added the button eyes above it.)

IMG_3322 (936x1024)

Add blush to Mister Quinzee’s face, if desired.

Fill the paper mache box up with some sort of wonderful, then place the lid back on the container.  Slip the knitted hat on over the lid and pull it down until it rests just above Mister Quinzee’s eyes.  So cute!

Wishing much warmth and happiness to each of you this Winter!

4 Comments

  • I would like to give a a great big applaud to all the designers of this 25 day advent calendar patterns Fantastic job on all the selections used in this project.

  • What a cutie, Jenny!! That face is simply adorable!

  • I’m going through pattern withdrawal! I loved the advent patterns!!! Thank you for providing them!!!!!!!

  • I just wanted to say what a cute pattern and idea to make where you can place homemade cookies or fudge,candies to gift to friends they can eat th goodies then after finished they can use the knitted container for decoration to set out every Christmas and you could use the container and knitted holiday slevees and make like a pumpkin or Turkery , easter bunny, valetine , fourth of July or a birthday cake sleeves for all the different holidays just use our imaginations this would be a awesome gift to share with friends and family love the 25 days of Advent calendar knitted patterns Thank you to all of you came up with all these great knitted patterns .

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Dec 24, 2015

Zippy Foot Pouf

Zippy Foot Pouf  3Loom Knitting Advent, day 24 of brings you a wonderful addition to your home decor: the Zippy Foot Pouf!

Designed by Bethany Dailey

I have always loved the look of those oversized knitted foot poufs that seem to fairly scream, “I’m cushy and soft, and your house will be so much more cozy with me in it!”  Well, as soon as the Zippy looms came into being, I knew that recreating one of those adorable foot stools was now a possibility!  Another fun thing about this project is that it will give you the opportunity to put those tired linens you may have hanging around your house to good use…what a terrific way to upcycle, right?

Materials

Knitting loom:  (5) Zippys and connectors (or 20 peg equivalent if using the Zippy Corners).

Yarn:  Red Heart Grande (46 yrds per skein), super bulky #6 weight: approx 9 skeins (in color: currant)  **Note: this yarn is very bulky for a #6…almost rope-like.  If you substitute a yarn of a thinner width, you’ll possibly need to hold 2 strands as one throughout to get the desired thickness for the project.

Notions:  loom tool, 6.5mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, wide eye yarn needle, row counter, knitting pins,  removeable stitch markers or bits of scrap yarn, one large decorative button (if desired), stuffing of choice (see Pattern Notes for more details on this).

Gauge: 6 stitches and 9.5 rows per 4”

Zippy Foot Pouf topPouf Measurements: (**All measurements given are before stuffing…once the item is stuffed firmly the measurements will inflate.)

Circumference: approx 62.75″

Diameter approx :20″

Height: approx 13.5″

Skills Needed: U-Stitch, E-wrap, Purl, Slip, Wrap & Turn,  CO of your choice, and Basic BO, Seaming Skills.

Abbreviations: 

CO=cast on

S1=slip one stitch (do not knit it, carry working yarn behind peg)

K=knit (pattern uses U-stitch)

P=purl stitch

KO=knit off

St(s)=stitches

WY=working yarn

W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.)

BO=Bind off

Pattern Notes:

As this is working with very large pegs, knit with a snug (yet not too tight) tension throughout.  Using the U-stitch as knits helps achieve a fabric that is not too holey for your finished pouf.

Notes on Stuffing: This project allows you to use those tired, worn out linens, duvets, and pillows you may have lying around the house, but don’t have a use for. If you are quicker than me about destashing cupboards and don’t already have these items, lol, a trip to the second hand store of your choice would be a very inexpensive way to aquire a good selection.  Make sure that you have laundered all items before using to stuff your pouf. You will need a pretty good stack of sheets, blankets, etc, to get a firm pouf that will easily support your feet.  The sample uses 2 fiberfill pillows propped up on their sides and rolled together in the center, with all the blankets and sheets wrapped evenly around them to fill out the pouf.

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Working with the Half Hitch:  https://youtu.be/a8aWyT4sc4w

Working a Wrap & Turn: https://youtu.be/5e3J0fuYz-U  (shown at 2:20 in tutorial)

INSTRUCTIONS

Top & Bottom:  (Make 2)

Connect 3 Zippy looms together for a total of 12 pegs.  CO to all 12 pegs.

Prepare to create a series of 8 short row wedges.

Step 1:  S1, K1, W&T peg 3.

Step 2:  K2 back to peg 1.

Step 3:  S1, K2 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 4.

Step 4:  K3 back to peg 1.

Step 5:  S1, K3 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 5.

Step 6:  K4 back to peg 1.

Step 7:  S1, K4 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 6.

Step 8:  K5 back to peg 1.

Step 9:  S1, K5 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 7.

Step 10:  K6 back to peg 1.

Step 11:  S1, K6 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 8.

Step 12:  K7 back to peg 1.

Step 13:  S1, K7 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 9.

Step 14:  K8 back to peg 1.

Step 15:  S1, K8 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 10.

Step 16:  K9 back to peg 1.

Step 17:  S1, K9 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 11.

Step 18:  K10 back to peg 1.

Step 19:  S1, K10 (KO 2 over 1 on peg with 2 loops), W&T peg 12.

Step 20:  K11 back to peg 1.

Step 21:  S1, K11 (on 12th peg KO 2 sts over 1).

Step 22:  S1, P10, K1.

Repeat Steps 1-22 seven more times to create a total of 8 wedges– except on Step 22 of 8th wedge.

Step 22 of 8th Wedge:  This will be the BO row.  Use the BBO, but purl all sts, rather than knitting them as follows:

  • Slip peg 12, purl peg 11,
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 12, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 11,
  • Purl peg 10,
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11, KO,
  • Move loop back to peg 10…
  • Repeat steps until last loop has been bound off,
  • Leave any length of yarn in place without cutting…this will be used during the assembly of the pouf later.

Using yarn tail, seam up BO and CO edges, moving toward the center of circle.  Gather the loose stitches at the inside of center and cinch tightly.  Knot and trim.  If desired, a large, decorative button can be sewn to the circle which will be the top of the pouf.

To achieve a flat and uniform shape, block circles lightly.

 

Sides:

Connect 5 Zippy looms together for a total of 20 pegs (alternatively, 4 Zippy looms and 4 corners could also be used).  CO to all 20 pegs to work as a flat panel.

Rows 1-17: Repeat the following 2 row pattern (Row 17 ends with A):

A- K1, P1, K1, P1, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1.

B- K2, P1, K1, P1, K10, P1, K1, P1, K2.

Row 18:  Work Row B above, but on the first and last loop of the row, add either a removable stitch marker, or a small piece of scrap yarn as a place holder.

Repeat Rows 1-18 seven more times. (144 rows total)

BBO all sts.  Leave a long tail for seaming sides together.

Finishing:

Stitch the CO edge to the BO edge. (Sample uses mattress stitch, but feel free to use the seaming technique most comfortable.)

Using the knitting pins, secure the bottom of the pouf to the sides.  Match the markers used on each 18th row of the sides to the long lines of the pouf. This will aid in keeping the pieces lined up correctly while seaming.  Using the long BO tails, seam the bottom to the sides.

Begin adding the stuffing to the pouf (see Pattern Notes for more instructions).  Start with the rolled, on-edge pillows, then wrap blankets and sheets, etc snuggly around them.  Keep building from the bottom to the top, until even with the pillows’ top edges.  Keep pulling the sides and bottom of the pouf up around the stuffing to create a firm base and sides.  The idea is to create a firm cylinder of stuffing that doesn’t bulge outward when pushed down upon.

Repeat the same procedure with the top piece of the pouf as used for seaming the bottom.  Stop before seaming all the way to adjust stuffing as necessary, or to add additional items to fill out pouf.  Once the pouf is smoothly stuffed, complete the seaming process.  Pull all tails to the inside.

Now, pull up a chair, grab your favorite read, and …

ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzz….

 

 

6 Comments

  • What a clever and lovely design for a gift or for your own home. Love it!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jacquelyn! :) It works up pretty quickly, too…love those Zippys!

  • Fantastic design, Bethany! I can definitely see one of these in my future.

  • Oh, thank you, Brenda! I really love how it turned out…really enjoy those big knits! :) I would love to see yours when you get it finished!

  • I don’t have a zippy loom yet, but now I want to buy one just for this project. I really want to make this cute pouf now! I love it Bethany!

  • Squeee! :D I love it when something is born from my looms that makes others want to join in and make it too. Thanks so much, Colleen! :)

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Dec 23, 2015

Men’s Winter Set

2015-12-23 04.17.05_edited-1

Loom Knitting Advent, day 23, brings you a fantastic Men’s winter set of beanie and scarf.  Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 23

Materials

Knitting Loom: Hat Loom, Small gauge.

Yarn: Approx, 690 yds of worsted weight wool. Knit Picks City Tweed in Obsidian, worsted weight was used in sample.

Beanie:  130 yards

Scarf:  560 yards

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: 7 stitches x 12 rows = 2”

Size: Hat fits an adult male (up to 23″ head circumference). Scarf 10 x 65 inches.

Abbreviations: K= knit stitch P=purl stitch Rep=Repeat Rnd(s)=Rounds St(s)=stitch(es)

2015-12-23 04.17.58

INSTRUCTIONSChart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BEANIE

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-21: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next 16 rnds: Work Ripple Chart shown.

Rep Ripple chart until item measures 7 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave in ends.

SCARF

Cast on 50 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: sl1, k3, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

Next 16 rows: *sl 1, k2, work Ripple Chart on next 44 pegs, k3.

Rep last 16 rows until panel measures 70 inches from cast on edge.

Repeat Rows 1-10.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave in ends.

2015-12-23 04.05.52

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Dec 22, 2015

Elf House Slippers

 Elf Shoes

Loom Knitting Advent, day 22, brings you a whimsical pair of Elf slippers.

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 22

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 (36 pegs)

Yarn: Approx 150 yards of worsted weight wool.  Patons Classic Wool worsted in Bright Red and White was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

Gauge:

Size: Shown fits a size 5-9 US women.

Abbreviations:

cc=contrasting color (White)

cont=continue

K=knit stitch

k2tog=A right slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 1 and hold it. Move stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Place the loop you are holding back on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop. *Note: usually, you move this loop over to peg 2 to leave peg 1 empty to create a yarn over.

mc=main color (Red)

P=purl stitch

rem=remain

Rep=repeat

rnd(s)=round(s)

st(s)=stitch(es)

ssk= A left slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop.

W&T=wrap and turn. The process of wrapping the peg and turning to work in the opposite direction on the loom. Lift the stitch/loop off the peg, wrap the peg so that the yarn goes around the peg and ends towards the front of the peg—if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg counterclockwise; if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg clockwise. See video demonstrating a W&T (Around 2:26)

YO=Yarn over. Created by ewraping the empty peg. Used to create the opening for lace items–it creates a small hole. Note: On the next row, untwist the ewrap and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg, then work the peg as instructed (either purl it or knit it).

INSTRUCTIONS

Using MC, cast on 36 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Set up rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 1: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2

Join CC and cont with CC

**Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to the end of rnd.

Work Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 2 times.**

Pick up MC and cont with MC

Rep from ** to **

Next 5 rnds: k to the end of rnd

Heel

Work a short row heel over the first 18 sts. (See video on how to work a short-row heel)

Instep and Sole

Cont working in the rnd as follows:

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

Rep last rnd until item measures 2 inches less than desired foot length. (Sample shown has 30 rnds).

Cut yarn leaving a 15 inch yarn tail***.

Curled Tip Shaping 2015-12-21 03.05.54

Join yarn at peg 28. Peg 28 will become peg 1 from this point forward. The toe is shaped with both short rows and with decreases. Tip: Recommend to move the stitches first to create the decreases.

Next 2 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (34 sts rem).

Next row: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (32 sts rem).

Next row: k14, (k2tog)2x, k12, w&t.

Next row: k26, w&t.

Next row: k11, (k2tog)2x, k10, w&t.

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k9, (k2tog)2x, k8, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (24 sts rem)

Next row: k22, w&t.

Next row: k20, w&t.

Next row: k19, w&t.

Next row: k18, w&t.

Next row: k7, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps (20 sts rem)

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k8, (k2tog)2x, k6, w&t.

Next row: k14, w&t.

Next row: k5, (k2tog)2x, k4, w&t.

Next row: k10, w&t.

Next row: k3, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k4, (k2tog)2x, k2, w&t.

Next row: k6, w&t.

Next row: k1, (k2tog)2x, w&t.

Next row: k2, w&t.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k to the end, picking up all the wraps.

Next row: k2, (k2tog)2x, k2.

Next row: k1 (k2tog)2x, k1.

Next row: (k2tog)2x

Next row: k2tog

Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Weave this end in.

Using the yarn tail from the opening, mattress stitch seam the toe close.

Optional: Add a decorative bell to the tip of the Elf House Slipper.

 

 

 

 

 

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Dec 21, 2015

Loom FAQs: How To Make Holes? On Purpose

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While working various patterns, holes are sometimes needed.  Sounds odd.  Who wants holes in their knits?  But I have seen questions like How do I make a thumb hole?  How do I made eye holes for a ski mask?  How do I make buttonholes?  Ponytail holes in hats?  Hole are needed.  Shovels are not.  So let’s toss that shovel aside and talk about how to work some holes into your knits.

While there are many variations of holes, there are basically only 3 methods to working a hole in knits.  Eyelets which are small and great for buttonholes, vertical holes which are great for thumb holes in fingerless gloves, and horizontal holes which are good for eye holes in ski mask and ponytail holes in hats.

Eyelets

Aren’t eyelets only used in lace stitch patterns?  Well eyelets are for more than just lace work.  They are great for making buttonholes in knits when the stitch pattern isn’t open enough for buttons.  While buttonholes can also be made using the horizontal or vertical methods for larger buttons in smaller gauge knits, there are 2 ways to make eyelets for buttonholes.  The first is with a 1 stitch decrease and the second is with decrease using 2 stitches.

– 1 stitch decrease eyelet

eyelet1When working a 1 stitch decrease eyelet, you just need to work a k2tog (knit 2 together) or an ssk (slip slip knit) depending on which direction you are working leaving an empty peg.

Move the stitch off the peg where the eyelet is to be.

 

 

eyelet2

 

Place the stitch on the next peg.  Then knit both loops together for the k2tog or ssk.  1 peg is left empty.

 

 

 

Then work a yo (yarn over) on the next row or round to replace the stitch on the empty peg.  There are 3 sizes of 1 stitch decrease eyelets depending on how the yo is worked.

There are 2 ways to work a yarn over.

eyelet flat

The first way is to lay the working yarn in front of the peg straight across the peg like working a flat knit.  This method will leave the smallest eyelet hole.

 

 

 

eyelet4

The other way is to wrap the peg like an e-wrap.  If you wrap the peg, there are 2 sizes of eyelets.  One is to leave the peg wrapped and just work that stitch with it wrapped.  This is the middle size eyelet.

 

 

 

eyelet5

To make the largest 1 stitch decrease eyelet, wrap the peg for the yo, but unwrap it and lay the working yarn in front of the peg when working the stitch on the next row.  It will be loose which is why it makes the bigger hole.

 

 

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

Eyelet using flat yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet with e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

Eyelet using unwrapped e-wrap yarn over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 2 stitch decrease eyelet

big eyelet1

With the 2 stitch decrease eyelet, you will work a k2tog and an ssk leaving 2 pegs empty

 

 

 

 

big eyelet2

 

 

 

 

 

big eyelet3and then working 2 yo to replace the stitch on the empty pegs.

 

Same thing applies with the yo methods on this eyelet version as with the 1 stitch decrease eyelet.

 

 

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

Eyelet with 2 stitch decrease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vertical Holes

Fingerless mitts or gloves are all the rage these days.  Especially with all of our touch screen electronic devices.  It’s easy to leave off the fingers of mittens or gloves.  But how do you work a hole for the thumbs?  Especially when working the mitts in the round.  It’s a great question.  And an easy one to explain.

Basically, all a person needs to do to work a vertical hole in their knits when working in the round is to stop working in the round and work a flat panel for several rows before starting to work in the round again.

Huh??  Yeah…  Easier said than done!  Or easier with pictures with step by step instructions instead of trying to explain in 1 sentence.  Let me show you how…

vhole1

 

The hole will be between the pegs with the stitch markers.

When making the vertical hole in a mitt or other items worked in the round, just start working a flat panel at this point by slipping the first stitch

 

vhole2

and knitting back the other direction

 

 

 

 

vhole3

with the last peg being worked is the other peg with the stitch marker.

 

 

 

 

vhole4

Then slip this stitch and work back in the other direction.

 

 

 

 

Work in rows until you get the length needed for your hole and start working the round again to close up the top of the hole.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

Vertical hole worked in a circular piece.

 

You can see that the top and bottom of these holes are not the sturdiest so you may want to whip stitch the top and bottom for strength.

By slipping the first stitch, you get a nice chain edge on each side.

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Holes

Anytime I see someone asking how to make the eye slits in a ski mask, I always have just one thought.  Somewhere there is a bank waiting to robbed…  But then I live in the South of the USA where the winters are not that cold.  I do realize that up north and other places around the world have very harsh winters, and ski masks are very lovely to wear to keep a persons cheeks and nose from freezing when working and playing outdoors.

Also hats with ponytail holes are great for those who like to wear hats and still wear a ponytail.  Especially runners.  And those of us who are too lazy to fix our hair or don’t want hat hair when it’s cold.

Horizontal holes are best for these types of hats.  These type of holes require binding off several pegs and then working in a flat panel for however tall the hole is needed before casting those pegs back on so working in the round can be resumed.  Still confused?  Well back to that step by step photo tutorial…

hhole1

For this demonstration, I am working in the round, working right to left, and want to work the horizontal hole between the pegs with the stitch markers.

 

 

 

First I will bind off those 4 pegs between the stitch markers using the basic bind off.  First knit the first 2 pegs to the left of the stitch marker on the right.  Then move the second stitch to the peg on the right and knit over.

hhole3

Then move the stitch on that peg over to the peg on the left leaving that peg empty.

 

 

 

 

hhole empty pegs

Then continue with the basic bind off method until all the pegs are empty between the stitch markers.

 

 

 

 

Now work in rows like in the vertical hole until the hole is the size needed.  For this demonstration, I worked 3 rows until I was back on the right side of the empty pegs.  Now to cast back on those empty pegs.

hhole ewrap co

You can just yarn over those empty pegs with by wrapping the pegs with an e-wrap to cast those stitches back on.  Then continue working in the round again.

 

 

 

If you prefer the chain edge like I do, you can work the chain cast on.

hhole cco1

In order for the cast on to be joined, the first loop needs to be drawn up through the last stitch worked.

Put the crochet hook down through the stitch.

 

 

 

hhole cco2

Then catch the working yarn and draw the new loop up through the stitch.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco4

Work the chain cast on until all the pegs are cast back on.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco5

Then place the last loop on the next peg and knit over.  Continue working in the round.

 

 

 

 

hhole cco6

Horizontal hole complete!

 

 

 

 

 

Holes are fun because they break the boredom.  Now to figure out exactly where to put them in your work!  It’s always something, isn’t it?  Happy knitting!

 

 

1 Comment

  • I really like these informational / learning posts. Thank you for taking the time to help us!

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