A GREAT PATTERN FOR BEGINNERS!! …an introduction to double knit. No matter how fierce the winter gets, this lovely throw will keep you warm and cozy. Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh
Knitting Loom: 28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing
Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool. 137 yards per skein. Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry. Colors: Camel Heather (Camel), 3 skeins, White, 3 skeins, and Fjord Heather (Blue), 2 skeins
Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook
Gauge: 2 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch
Size: 34 x 50 inches
Basic Notes: With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. All stitches are Stockinette. Check out chart below.
To keep side edges even and smooth, tie on your new yarns at 2nd stitch between the rows of pegs. This will keep the knots away from the edge and hidden from the finished throw. When cutting each yarn, leave a yarn tail approximately 3” that will lay flat between the 2 rows of pegs.
Cast on row will be the same as one row of stockinette stitch. You start on Left side of loom on top peg #1 with a slip knot; bring yarn down to peg #2 on lower board. Wrap yarn around, and continue back up to peg # 3 on top board. Continue weaving the yarn around every other peg, alternating from one board to the other, to end. Wrap around the end at last peg. Return back to beginning by wrapping all the pegs that were skipped on first pass. Now all the pegs for this project will be wrapped.
Lay a piece of yarn across the stitches with the yarn ends dangling at each end of loom. This is referred to as the anchor yarn or waste yarn. It is usually removed after the knitting is complete. Now, wrap all the pegs again just as before so that you have 2 loops on each peg. You are ready to hook over using the knit hook. This means to lift the bottom loop, on each peg over the top loop, and into the center of the loom. Do this to all pegs, so that they have only one wrap of yarn. Your stitches are now cast on and you are ready to work in stockinette stitch.
The stockinette stitch produces a smooth knit, and is usually the first stitch learned in double knitting. It is the same process as casting on. Once you wrap all pegs again, hook over. This completes one row of stockinette stitch. Continue this stitch with the color changes for the entire afghan.
Cast on 64 stitches with Camel yarn in Stockinette stitch. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.
Knit 7 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 7 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 8 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 2 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.
Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn. Cut Camel and knot.
Knit 3 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut White and knot.
Knit 8 rows in Camel.
Bind Off your stitches with a loose crochet bind off.
Bind Off at anchor yarn with loose crochet bind off.
Now that the blanket is complete, finish off with this method. Place blanket in pot or sink with hot water for 4 minutes. Allow yarn to fully soak up all the water. Remove from sink and gently roll in a full size towel or two to absorb as much of the water as possible. Place in your dryer for five minutes on medium heat to fluff and soften the wool. Block to specified size and allow to air dry until fully dry. Enjoy your lovely throw!
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XOXOX, a symbol for hugs and kisses, is a term used for expressing sincerity, faith, love, or good friendship at the end of a written letter, email, or text message. This practice has been in use clear back into the Middle Ages. Since most of the common people could not read or write, the ‘X’ was placed on documents, and a kiss was placed over it as a show of their sincerity. The ‘o’ physically resembles a hug, and has joined the ‘X’ near signatures as a perfect pair to express love and friendship. With Valentine’s Day coming up this month, it’s a perfect time to learn this stitch. :)
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Hugs & Kisses Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)
Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10 for repeats of the same column, or 20 for repeats of the 2 alternating columns.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap…except in the row before working the cables, as noted below.
*Note: It helps to e-wrap the knit stitches that sit right in line with the cable pegs in the row before the cable row to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. Simply untwist the e-wrap loops when creating the cables.
[2/2RC]: Worked over 4 pegs:
- Lift the loops from the 2 right pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right pegs first)
- Move the 2 stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the right.
- Knit the 2 stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty left pegs and knit them. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.
[2/2LC]: Worked over 4 pegs:
- Lift the loop from the 2 left pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
- Move the 2 stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the left.
- Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty right pegs and knit them. Knit the 2 stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you! It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above. I promise! :) )
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k8, p2, k8, p1.
(**Note: if you need extra room to cross those cable stitches, you can read Row 2 (and all rows right before a cable row) as: p1, ew8, p2, ew8, p1. Just make sure to untwist the e-wraps while working the cables.)
Row 3: p1, 2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p1.
Rows 4-6: rep Row 1.
Row 7: rep Row 3.
Rows 8-10: rep Row 1.
Row 11: p1, 2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p1.
Rows 12-14: rep Row 1.
Row 15: rep Row 11.
Row 16: rep Row 1.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Rows 1-4: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.
Main Pattern Rows
Row 5: k2, p1, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p1, k2.
Row 6: p3, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p3.
Row 7: k2, p1, *2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 8: rep Row 6. (**Use regular knits/u-stitches here.)
Row 9: rep Row 5.
Row 10: rep Row 6. (**The k8’s can be e-wraps…see notes above.)
Row 11: rep Row 7.
Rows 12-14: rep Rows 8-10.
Row 15: k2, p1, *2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 16-18: rep Rows 8-10.
Row 19: rep Row 15.
Row 20: rep Row 8.
Row 21-60: Repeat Rows 5-20.
Rows 61-64: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)
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Designed by Bethany A Dailey
**Edited 2/5/16 to add a note to Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22.
**Edited 2/10/16 Brim section to correct remaining number of loops on each long side of the loom to 34 (68 total).
A hat to keep you cozy warm with a vibrantly whimsical flair! This design is unique in that it is styled to be worked from the crown down to create those playful points at the ears.
Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom, 92 pegs used.
Yarn: Approximately 395 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample used Universal Yarn Classic Shades (1 skein in Campfire used for main color) 197 yds/180 m., and Patons Classic Wool Worsted (1 skein in Plum Heather used for contast color) 210 yds/192 m.
Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter.
Gauge: 13 sts x 33 rows= 4 inches (in pattern, using U-Stitch)
Finished Measurements: Circumference: 20″, Length from crown to middle brim: 10″ (ear points add 3”)
Skills Needed: Knit/U-stitch, Purl, Drawstring CO, Half Hitch CO (or CO of your choice), and Basic BO, braiding and pompom making.
CO: cast on
MC: main color
CC: contrast color
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
HHCO: half hitch cast on
S1: slip one/skip one
BO: bind off
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.
For the sample, all knit stitches were made using the U-stitch. Work whichever type of knit stitch helps you achieve the proper gauge.
Drawstring CO tutorial
Half Hitch CO tutorial
Set loom to work in the round using 68 pegs, which are centered on the loom. Peg #1 should be at a corner (where the slider and long side meet). Using the Main Color, drawstring cast on to 68 pegs.
Rnds 1-6: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22: (*Note: you will be increasing the number of pegs used by 4, at each corner of the pegs currently being used.) HHCO to corner peg just before peg 1 (this will be the new peg #1), k all pegs on 1st long side of loom to 2nd corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on 2nd long side of loom to 4th corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider.
Rnds 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21: knit all, including newly CO pegs. Move sliders gradually outward to accommodate new sts. (After Rnd 22, there will be 92 pegs filled.)
Rnds 23-28: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnds 29-34: * p2, k2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnds 35-70: rep Rnds 23-34 a total of 3 times.
Prepare to work in a flat panel using only 12 pegs at each end of the loom. (Pegs 4-1, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 92-90 on first end and pegs 39-41, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 47-50.)
Work the first section of 12 pegs, keeping in the same pattern as before, while decreasing at the center with a k2tog every other row. Expect the decreasing to cause there to be 3 knits or 3 purls together at the center occasionally. When there is only one loop left, cut at 10” for seaming and pull through loop. Repeat procedure with the other side’s 12 pegs.
Using the Contrast Color, and leaving a 10” tail for seaming later, CO to 92 pegs, centering them on the loom so that the beginning CO loop is at the center of the front long side of the loom. Work all the way around the loom and back to the 2nd center peg of the front long side of the loom. The original loops of this front long side of the loom will NOT be worked in the following rows. These pegs are simply being borrowed temporarily— just work the rows while ignoring those bottom loops. Only the back long side original loops will be worked into the row.
Row 1: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to back long side with previous sts. Work these sts following the same ribbing pattern, but with 2 loops worked as one (the original loops and the newly CO loops). After these 30 sts are worked, continue around the loom to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: s1, *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 3: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Rows 4-16: rep Rows 2 & 3.
Rows 17-32: rep Rows 2 & 3, but BO the first 2 sts of each row.
Loosely Basic BO remaining 60 sts. Leave a 14” tail for seaming.
Repeat the same Brim Instructions, but CO starting at the center of the BACK long side, working the original loops from the FRONT long side into the first row.
Cinch the Drawstring CO by pulling carefully but firmly on the yarn tail until the sts are as snug as they will go. Pull tail to inside of hat and stitch around circle to close completely. Knot securely.
Using the long tails of the MC, neatly stitch the edges of the brim to the MC points on each side of the hat.
Create 2 braids by wrapping both the MC and the CC around the loom 6 times. Cut the loops at each end. This will provide 2 sections of 12 strands of yarn. Tie each section with an overhand knot at the top. Divide the sections into 3 groups of 4 strands and braid them together until 4” remain unbraided at the bottom. Secure with another overhand knot.
Pinch the top knot of one of the braids between the back side’s brim at the point section. Take the front side’s brim point and wrap around the back side’s to seal the braid inside. Using the long tails of the CC, stitch the braid and corner flaps securely in place, keeping edges even and tidy. Repeat on the other side. A few hidden stitches can be tucked into the back brim to keep it folded upwards.
Create three pompoms using both the MC and the CC yarns. Secure onto place at the top of the hat, and at the ends of each braid. The overhand knot at the bottom of the braid serves as a place to tie the pompoms to so that they have a better hold.
Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.
To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)
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All-n-One knitting loom, 80 (88, 96) pegs.
Yarn: Approx 140-164 yds of worsted weight of merino wool and Donegal tweed blend. City Tweed in Brocade was used in sample.
Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle.
Gauge: 11sts x 13 rows = 2 inches.
Size: Three sizes provided, due to the shrinkage in the fabric from the cables, a higher than normal number of pegs is required. Small (fits head circumference up to 19”), Medium (fits head circumference up to 20”), Large (fits a head circumference up to 21”).
k2tog=knit two stitches together
p2tog=purl two stitches together
c4f=Cable 4 stitches front
c4b=Cable 4 stitches back
c4f: Cable 4 Front (also known as 4-st LC)
Step 1: Take working yarn behind pegs 1 and 2 (you are skipping pegs 1 and 2).
Step 2: Knit pegs 3 and 4, transfer these stitches to cable needle.
Step 3: Take working yarn to the front of peg 1: knit pegs 1 and 2.
Step 4: Transfer the stitches as follows: stitch from peg 2 to peg 4, stitch from peg 1 to peg 3.
Step 5: Transfer the stitches from the cable needle and place them on pegs 1 and 2.
With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.
c4b: Cable 4 Back (also known as 4-st RC)
Step 1: Place stitches from pegs 1 and 2 onto cable needle and hold to the center of the loom.
Step 2: Bring yarn in front of peg 3, knit pegs 3 and 4.
Step 3: Transfer the stitches just worked as follows: Stitch from peg 3 to peg 1, stitch from peg 4 to peg 2.
Step 4: Transfer stitches from cable needle to pegs 3 and 4. Knit pegs 3 and 4.
With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.
Set knitting loom to the desired number of pegs 80 (88, 96) pegs.
CO 80 (88, 96) sts, prepare to work in the rnd.
Rnd 1-Rnd 10: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 11: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Rnd 12: *k2, c4f, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Rnd 14: *c4b, k2, p2; rep from * to the end rnd.
Rep Rnds 11-Rnd 14: until hat measures approx 7 (7.5, 8) inches from cast on edge.
Next rnd: Remove the stitches off the pegs and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Re-set knitting loom to the following peg configuration 40 (44, 48). Place stitches back on the knitting loom, 2 loops per peg. Work the row as follows: *k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.
Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.
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Money has been on my mind lately. Or rather the lack of it in my life. I know I am not alone in that. What with the Powerball jackpot at a record high, the U.S. 1894-S Barber dime selling for almost $2 million, and bills needing to be paid, it’s not a wonder that money is always on everyone’s minds.
Unfortunately, the love of all our lives is not free. No… Not talking about Adam Levine or Idris Elba. Yarn. Yes. Yarn. THAT love of our lives. How do we know we are getting a great deal if it’s not on clearance?
You have a pattern you want to make. Don’t want to buy the yarn used in the pattern because it cost way too much. You are on a yarn budget. Oh the horror! Oh! Here is a yarn that is rather inexpensive per skein/ball! Wait… It doesn’t have as much yardage as this other that cost more. Hmmm… How do you know that you are getting the best deal with your money? On just hold on a minute… Was math just mentioned? Well not yet technically. But yes. It’s math lesson #3. Now I have mentioned it.
For all of you who claim you have yet to use algebra as an adult, you are wrong again. Here is more algebra all explained step by step to help you compare yarn prices so you too can get the best deal for that next project.
Here are 2 examples of yarn for your next project.
Let’s say the project needs 1100 yards of yarn.
First selection of yarn cost $6.99 per ball and has 150 yards per ball.
Second selection of yarn cost $12.99 (WHOA!) and has 400 yards per ball.
Let’s see which is cheaper for this project.
How do I compare yarn by price per yard?
You only need 3 things to calculate this. The price of the yarn and the number of yards/meters in the ball. Yes that’s just 2. The 3rd thing is the calculator. Lucky calculators are included on smart phones. Or you can download one. Hang on to that calculator. You will need it later…
All you do is divide the price by the number of yards. Huh? Ok, I will break it down for you.
Each letter will represent something.
A = the price of the ball of yarn
B = number of yards or meters in the ball
C = the answer
The equation is as follows:
A / B = C
What does / mean?
/ is the symbol used for divide.
Example: Lets calculate using the first yarn which cost $6.99 and has 150 yards. How much is the yarn per yard?
A = the price or 6.99
B = number of yards or 150
Let’s put those numbers into our equation.
6.99 / 150 = .0466
This yarn costs $0.05 per yard.
But the second selection of yarn cost $12.99 but has 400 yards. Is it cheaper than the first we calculated? Let’s see.
A = 12.99
B = 400
Using the equation above
12.99 / 400 = .0324
The second yarn cost $0.03 per yard.
The second yarn is cheaper per yard than the first. Therefore you will need to buy less of the second than the first.
How many balls do I need to buy?
Going by the example, the pattern calls for 1100 yards. You will just need to divide the amount of yarn needed by the number of yards in the ball. For this equation, we will use
D = number of yards needed for the pattern
E = number of yards in the ball of yarn you will use
F = number of balls of yarn needed
Now for the equation
D / E = F
Same equation. Different numbers for a different answer.
Let’s do both examples from before.
The first had 150 yards per ball.
D = number of yards needed or 1100
E = number yards in ball or 150
1100 / 150 = 7.33
Since the answer is over 7, you will need to buy 8 balls in order to have enough.
For the second, it has 400 yards
D = 1100
E = 400
1100 / 400 = 2.75
So you will need to buy only 3 balls of the second yarn.
Which is the better deal?
I suspect you already know which is the better deal, but let’s discuss why.
To see how much total you spend, you will just multiple the cost of the ball by the number of balls.
G = cost per ball
H = number of balls
J = total cost of the yarn for the project
The equation (x means to multiply)
G x H = J
For the first yarn,
G = 6.99 cost per ball
H = 8 balls needed
6.99 x 8 = 55.92
The first yarn will cost you $55.92 for this project.
Now for the second yarn.
G = 12.99
H = 3
12.99 x 3 = 38.97
The second yarn will cost you a total of $38.97.
Even though the first yarn was cheaper per ball, the second yarn is the cheaper for the entire project. You will save $16.97 by buying the more expensive yarn.
What have we learned from this little lesson other than math is still confusing and what on earth did she mean by that?? Hopefully we have learned that just because some yarns cost more than others, we save money by buying the more expensive yarn because it has more yards. Some don’t. Some do. Just be sure to check that label for the yardage before ignoring a pricier yarn. And never leave your calculator at home!
Never have an empty loom and Happy Knitting!!
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