Jul 24, 2015

Zippy Shawl & Shawlette

LH9A5627Open your wings and fly! Beautiful open stitches and winged tipped edges adorn the tips of this shawlette worked with a simple lace. Worked in garter stitch and short rows to provide width to the wingspan.

Knitting loom: Zippy loom (6 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawlette, (7 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawl).

Yarn: Approximately 120 yards of super bulky yarn for Zippy Shawlette (240 yards of super bulky yarn for the Zippy Shawl). Samples used Red Heart Boutique Twilight (2 skeins in Turquoise (4 skeins in Mercury) 59 yds/54m.

Notions: knitting tool, big eye tapestry needle.

Size: Zippy Shawlette: 40” wingspan by 16” to the tip.

Zippy Shawl: 70” wingspan by 28” to the tip.

Gauge: Zippy Shawlette: 5 sts x 8 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with the regular knit stitch).

Zippy Shawl: 4 sts x 5 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with ewrap knit stitch)

Pattern notes:

Connect the 6 (7 Zippy looms together) 24 (28 pegs).

Abbreviations

BBO: Basic bind off

CO: Cast on

EWK: Ewrap knit

k: knit stitch

p: purl stitch

sts:stitches

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)

 

Zippy ShawletteLH9A5676

Time: Approximately 2.5-3  hours; each wedge takes approximately 10-15 minutes. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 18 sts (from peg 18 to peg 1-left to right).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 18).

Row 2: k 4 (peg 18, 17, 16, 15), YO 1 (ewrap peg 15), k 12 (from peg 14 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

  1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
  2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
  3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
  4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.LH9A5679
  5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
  6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
  7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

In other words: You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 19).

Row 4: k 4 (pegs 19, 18, 17, 16) YO1 (ewrap peg 16), k 11 (from peg 15 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 20).

Row 6: k 4 (pegs 20, 19, 18, 17) YO1 (ewrap peg 17), k 10 (from peg 16 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 21).

Row 8: k 4 (peg 21, 20, 19, 18) YO1 (ewrap peg 18), k 9 (from pegs 17 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 22).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 22, 21, 20, 19). 18 sts rem. K 18 (from peg 18 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

Zippy Shawl

LH9A5635Time: Approximately 4 hours. Each wedge takes approximately 20-25 minutes. 

The Zippy Shawl is worked similar to the Zippy Shawlette, except worked with the ewrap stitch to provide more length and width to the shawl as well as more open lace like stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 24 sts (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 24).

Row 2: EWK 4 (peg 24, 23, 22, 21), YO 1 (ewrap peg 21), EWK 18 (from peg 20 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

  1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
  2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
  3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
  4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
  5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
  6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
  7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 25).

Row 4: EWK 4 (pegs 25, 24, 23, 22) YO 1 (ewrap peg 22), EWK 17 (from peg 21 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 26).

Row 6: EWK 4 (pegs 26, 25, 24, 23) YO 1 (ewrap peg 23), EWK 16 (from peg 22 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 27).

Row 8: EWK 4 (peg 27, 26, 25, 24) YO 1 (ewrap peg 24), EWK 15 (from pegs 23 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 28).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 28, 27, 26, 25). 24 sts rem. EWK 24 (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

4 Comments

  • Which way do you cast on? Right to Left (Clockwise), or Left to Righ(Counter Clockwise)?

  • Is there any way you could do a video on the following section of the pattern, I don’ understand it, thanks so much,

    *Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

    With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
    With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
    Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
    Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
    Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
    Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
    Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

  • I’ll try to explain it in another way.

    You will need a stitch holder (a safety pin works) for this method. Let’s say you are doing the shawlette.

    Assume you are on the first section. You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

    Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

    Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

    Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

    Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

    Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

    Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.

  • Hi Raelyn,
    Cast on from left to right so that the first row is from Right to Left.

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Jul 20, 2015

Loom FAQs: Why Not Knots?

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I really do not like weaving in the ends or tails after my work is complete.  But.  The one thing I detest even more that in knitting is knots. Despise them. Only time I do use a knot is to secure a gathered bindoff. And it’s a square knot all the way. But even then, I leave long enough tail to weave in. I don’t use knots to join a new ball of yarn or to change colors.   I don’t even place the slip knot on the first peg. I always cut out the knots in balls of yarn and treat the ends like joining a new ball. I always weave in my ends. Or as they say in the UK, I sew them in.

But every time I say this, I get the questions: Won’t the ends come out if not knotted? How do you secure the ends by weaving them in? Why do you not use other methods of joining yarn like the Russian join?

Let’s answer some of those and other questions about how to weave in those ends.

Why?

First let me answer that most pressing of questions: Why? Well, it is a very simple answer. Knots come undone. And when the yarn ends have been clipped too close to that knot, the work unravels. I have had more than one person that said that they have never had a knot come untied. Well I am not that lucky. Learned the hard way. And with more research as I developed my craft, I learned that the professionals do not use knots either.  Another “why” is I can always feel the knot in the work.  Drives me crazy.

Why not use the slip knot on the first peg?

Won’t the cast on row unravel if the slip knot is not placed on the first peg? No,  once the work is started, it will unravel.  Then that end is woven in as well.

Then how do you start without a slip knot?  I do use a slip knot but use an anchor peg. Usually I place my slip knot on 2 pegs from my starting peg so that I will not accidently work it as the cast on when I work the first row. Then I work the cast on like normal. I take the slip knot off the peg after working the first row. If I am working in the round and have cast on that peg, then I only work the cast on stitch on my first round and remove the slip knot by carefully lifting off the top loop and replacing it after the slip knot is removed.

Why not use other methods of joining like the Russian join?

When you use a Russian join, there is a section on each side of the join that is twice as thick as the rest of the yarn that will show on the work.  I have also found that the Russian join will not work on certain yarns.

Other methods of joining that are utilized by some all have some sort of drawback as well depending on fiber, thickness, etc.

Won’t the tails come out if they are only woven in?

If the ends or tails are woven or sewn in properly, the strand is locked into place and it won’t come undone.

How do I properly weave in ends?

Different people have different methods of weaving in the ends.  But it all comes down to the same concept:  the tail is woven in on a diagonal zig zag, or in the case of the garter stitch, replicating the stitch itself.

Zig zag?

Yes, when I weave in the ends on stockinette, I weave them in on the wrong side of the work.  In order for it not to show on the right side, the end must be woven in on a diagonal.  I will demonstrate this one on the end tail.  Same method is used when joining a new ball or changing colors.  Just make sure that with the color change that the end is woven in on the same color.

So the first pass will look like this:

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Just carefully catch the purl side stitches with the tapestry needle on a diagonal.

Then you will come back down on the same diagonal along side the first pass.

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After a couple more passes, you have woven in the end.

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Now the end may be clipped.

Duplicate stitch?

This one I like to use on garter stitch.  The end is woven in duplicating the garter stitch.  I will show this one with both ends in the middle of the work where a new ball is joined.  Same method is worked for the end tails.

When joined in the middle of the row, there is a hole.

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So the ends must be crossed to close up the hole when weaving in the ends.

First cross the first end across the other and bring the tapestry needle up through the next stitch.

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Then back down following the original stitch.

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After a few stitches, start back the other direction on the row below or above.  Then repeat a couple of times.

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Then you will do the same with the other end going in the other direction.

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You can go down through 2 stitch to the next row down.

Once enough passes are done, the strand is locked into the stitches and will not come out and the rest of the tail may be cut off.

I always look to see if I can see the tapestry needle on the other side of the work when weaving in the ends.  If it can be seen, then the tail can be seen as well.  If it can’t, then the tail won’t be seen either in the stitch pattern.

I am not an expert at weaving in ends.  There are other sites that give a more detailed or various methods.  These are the ways that I weave in my ends.  Which I don’t like doing…  But hate knots even more…

Keep asking those questions!  Happy loom knitting!

 

1 Comment

  • Thanks you! This is the best & clearest explanation I’ve ever read about weaving in the ends. I also love the advise on how to start a cast on without leaving the slip knot at the edge of the fabric. That always bothered me & now I know how to remove it :)

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