Apr 29, 2016

Felted Casserole Cozy

With the warmer weather comes those special events we all love: pot lucks, barbecues, family reunions, and sports outings.  This project is exactly the thing needed to keep those tasty dishes insulated while transporting them to their destination.  The thick felted wool creates the perfect barrier to help hot dishes remain hot and cold ones stay chilled in the sun’s warming rays.

Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom set to large gauge (pegs in every other hole), 28 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 950 yards of worsted weight 100% wool yarn, two strands held as one. Sample used Patons Classic Wool Worsted (2 skeins in each of the colors Jade Heather and Rich Red, 1/2 skein in the color Leaf Green, 1/4 skein in the color Winter White) 210 yds/192 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter, one large and a few small decorative buttons, as desired.  Also needed for felting process: hot water, either in washing machine or in large tub, 1 tablespoon laundry soap or baking soda, thick towels, old jeans or dryer balls to aid in the felting process if using a washing machine.

Gauge: Approx 9.33 sts x 17.75 rows= 4 inches (before felting)

Finished Measurements: Before felting: 17″ x 12″ x 5″ After felting: approximately 15″ x 9″ x 3″  (The size of this cover can be adjusted by changing the number of pegs used and rows knitted, as well as custom fitted by felting the item to fit the specific pan desired for use.)

Skills Needed: E-wrap, Chain CO (or CO of your choice), Basic BO, seaming method of choice (sample used single crochet), felting techniques.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BBO: basic bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held throughout.

The instructions below are for the exact color combination used for the sample.  If another look is desired, simply work in the color pattern of choice, keeping the total row count the same as the original.

Felted Casserole Cozy-side

Instructions

Set loom to work in a flat panel using 28 pegs in every other hole.

Top Panel

CO onto all 28 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-11:  Work EW on all 28 pegs using 2 strands of Rich Red.

Rows 12-16: Cut 1 strand of Rich Red to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Jade Heather with uncut strand of Rich Red and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 17-27:  Cut strand of Rich Red to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Jade Heather and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 28-32: Cut 1 strand of Jade Heather to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Winter White with uncut strand of Jade Heather and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 33-43:  Cut strand of Jade Heather to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Winter White and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 44-48: Cut 1 strand of Winter White to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Leaf Green with uncut strand of Winter White and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 49-59:  Cut strand of Winter White to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Leaf Green and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 60-64: Cut 1 strand of Leaf Green to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Rich Red with uncut strand of Leaf Green and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 65-75:  Cut strand of Leaf Green to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Rich Red and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Loosely BBO all 28 pegs.

Bottom Panel

CO onto all 28 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-88:  Work EW on all 28 pegs using 2 strands of Jade Heather.

Rows 89-100: Continue to work in EW, but decrease 2 stitches at each row using the following method:

*Move the loops from the 2nd pegs from both edges to the outside pegs.

*KO the bottom loop over the top loop at the outside pegs.

*Move the loop from the outside pegs inward one peg to fill in the gaps.

*Work row.

BBO remaining 4 pegs.

Sides Panel

CO onto 12 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-200:  Work EW on all 12 pegs using 2 strands of Rich Red.

Loosely BBO all 12 pegs.

 FRONT before felting

FRONT before felting

 BACK before felting

BACK before felting

Finishing

Pin the long side panel evenly onto both the top and bottom panels, keeping the extra length of the bottom panel free by centering the side panel at the flat edge opposite the tapered edge. There should be approximately 4″ left free before it starts to taper to a point.  Being careful not to pull too tightly which will cause puckering, neatly stitch the edges of the panels together (sample used a single crochet stitch  in Leaf Green, but a blanket stitch or mattress stitch could also be used. To keep continuity of the contrasting seam, a single crocheted edge was also applied across the bottom panel’s tapered end as well as ends of

side panel.)

Weave in all ends that will be visible at the opening, and simply make a square knot and trim all other ends.

Felting

**Please Note!** During felting, the wool will shrink significantly. Careful watch over the felting process is required to ensure that the piece doesn’t shrink too much.
If using a washing machine, place the piece inside a laundry bag or tightly tied pillow case before felting.  This will help keep the extra fuzz produced in the felting process from clogging the machine. Set the machine to the hot/normal cycle and add a pair of old jeans or two (ones that will not bleed color) or dryer balls for plenty of agitation.  Add a tablespoon of laundry soap or baking powder to help soften the wool fibers. Let the cycle run for approx 15-20 minutes, checking regularly to make sure of the size of the finished piece.  **Donleave them unchecked too long, as it can quickly shrink beyond what is expected!  If the machine is felting the piece unevenly, simply add friction by hand to those places that still require extra felting.  This allows better control over the felting process so that certain areas don’t felt too much.
Alternately, felting can be accomplished using a large tub filled with hot water and plenty of applied hand agitation with good success.  An ice cube tray, or a new plunger can also be used for added friction. 
Once the desired size has been achieved, rinse piece with cold water. Carefully squeeze out excess water without ringing. Roll cozy in a thick, absorbent towel.
Working while the piece is still damp, carefully stretch the sides of the panels so that they are straight and even and are at the correct measurement. Insert desired baking dish and fit the cozy to its shape (sample’s dish had handles to mold the felting around, but this was done quite easily, because the wool was still damp and pliable).  Stretch and push the piece as needed, pinning the flap in place.  Leave to dry completely.  **Note: Because felting will continue to shrink a bit as the moisture in the wool evaporates, continue shaping during the drying process, so that the project will remain in the desired shape.
 Felted Casserole Cozy-button flap

Using sharp scissors, cut a small slit in the center of the tapered point of the button flap, along the same direction as the knitting. The felting process will have firmly knotted all the fibers together, so the knitting can be cut into without worry.  If desired, the slit can be reinforced with some stitches of yarn. Stitch the button(s) onto the corresponding place on the top panel where the button flap will close, as well as anywhere else desired for decoration.

Felted Casserole Cozy-buttons,sm

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

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Apr 25, 2016

Double Knit 101-Part III

Double Knit 101—Part II        Double Knit 101-Part I

Elizabeth with hat:scarfShaping the Knit

Yay, you completed your double knit scarf last month! That’s really so cool, because you did the basic cast on with anchor yarn, changed stitch patterns with the Stockinette stitch and the Rib stitch. Hopefully, you finished off both ends and have it ready to wear, when needed. Well, some folks still need their warm wearables handy with the snow still flying in parts of the country.

Your current abbreviations learned are:

Stockinette stitch=St stitch, or K stitch= knit stitch. (same stitch),

Back/to/back stitch=b/b

Rib stitch=Rib stitch

Increase=inc

Decrease=dec, or DD=double dec

Cast On=CO

Bind Off=BO

Approximately=aprox

Regular row=a row with no increase or decrease

So today, I want to share with you the basics of increasing and decreasing, so you can make lots more fun items in double knit. What can we make, and when will you use the inc and dec? Let’s look at some different situations, and what will the pattern say? The best way to explain the shaping is to just make something with these techniques, for example, a hat to match your scarf.  With a double knit hat, we usually make it on a long loom so that we can get the entire length going around the head, all in one piece.  This way the cast on, with the  anchor yarn edge, will be at the top of hat, and then,  just gather the top with the anchor yarn.  But sometimes that method creates a hat that is very bunched up at the top, or sits on your head like a paper sack pulled down.

I am using the 18-All-n-One-Loom as the 10″ Knitting Board would be limited, for this example.  The All-n-One Loom has 48 pegs, and my hat will need 56 stitches.  So, we can just make this in 2 pieces, each will have 28 sts.  OH no, you say, sewing? Maybe I did it on purpose, because I wanted to show you how the invisible stitch can be just that…invisible.  So with our hat, we are going to make it in 2 shaped pieces and sew them together with invisible stitch.  Each piece will look something like this.

hat front 2

Here is the hat front or back, they will be the same.  We will start the piece at brim and work with rib stitch and stockinette.  We will do dec across the center and, on up to hat top. We will use the dec at beginning and end of each row as well as randomly across the entire row.

#5 yarn and the All-n-One Loom, set at smallest spacing is used in sample.  This will produce a size small hat to fit head circumference of approximately 21-22″.  You can make a larger hat by using the mid spacing of the All-n-One Loom.  If you are using the 28″Loom, maintain the smaller setting.  For a deeper hat, work 12 rows of rib st and 12 rows of stockinette st.  Our sample measures aprox 9″ deep.

Cast On 28 stitches in stockinette stitch.  Work in Rib stitch for 10 rows.

Change to Stockinette stitch and work for 10 rows.  For a deeper hat, change to 12 rows of each stitch.  This will add 1″ in depth.  We will go thru the series of a dec row before completing our hat panel.

pick up 3rd stitch

Decrease at ends of loom and across the loom: A basic dec is same as term (k2tog)  or knit 2 sts together as one.  This is what we are doing.  When you combine 2 sts, you are creating an empty peg and the peg next to it has 2 loops.  If you leave the pegs empty and continue weaving over them, you will create an open hole as with an eyelet design.  On the other hand, if you move the sts together and eliminate the empty peg, you are reducing the amount of stitches, and making the knit width narrower.  This is what we want to do to shape the hat around the head.

 

place on peg 4

 

 

Sometimes, you want to just bring in the ends with a dec at each end, or some shapes, like a neckline will ask you to dec at just the front end, or back end of loom.  When you want a more sharp curve like our hat, we will use some dec rows that will have multiple decreases all across the knitting.  It all does the same thing-make the knit smaller in width.Remember, the dec stitches must be done to both boards for a basic process.

We have created empty pegs on both boards by moving loop on peg 2 to peg 3.  It is always best to do a dec or inc from inside the knit rather than at the first stitch.  There will be times when you will work from peg one, but that is usually for ruffles and intricate little items.

ready to close in open pegs

 

 

 

 

create open pegs for dec

Once you have all the open pegs you need to reduce the size of the knit, start at center of loom and move the pegs over towards center.  If you are working with an empty peg that has the 2 loops, be sure to move both of them to next peg.  Sometime there will be more than one peg to jump over, and it will be a tight stretch.  Just go slow and careful, so that the loops are on the intended pegs.

In the photo above, you can see 6 empty pegs on each board.  They are ready to be moved over.  They all need to be adjacent to each other in order to weave the next (shorter) row.  After this row is complete, you will have just 22 sts instead of the 28 sts that you cast on.  Be sure to weave over all pegs to complete the row.

pick up both loops and move over

It can be a bit of a stretch as you move the loops over to close in the empty pegs.  Once they are all moved, weave over the pegs and hook over, being careful to lift both loops when working  the double loops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

eyelets

 

Remember, if you leave the loops spaced out, and weave over them, without moving them together, you will create eyelets.

 

 

 

 

Continue the shaping of the hat: We are working from L side of loom.

Decrease row #1-Lift loop #3 and place it on peg #4, both boards.  Place loop #8 onto peg #9, both boards.  Place loop #13 onto peg #14, both boards.  Notice they are all laying towards center.  Now, place loop #16 onto peg #15, both boards, and loop #21 onto peg #20, and then loop #26 onto peg #25, both boards.  Your dec is done.  Now, carefully move the loops over until they are all adjacent to each other and you now have 22 sts.  Check carefully to be sure you do not have empty pegs.  Sometimes, when moving the double loops on one peg, it helps to move one at a time, so you don’t accidentally lose one of them.  Weave over the 22 sts and hook over.

22 sts after dec.2

Work 2 regular rows in stockinette.

Dec #2-Lift loop #3 onto peg #4 on both boards.  Do this to both ends of loom.  You are dec by 2 sts.

Work 4 regular rows in stockinette.

Dec #3- Lift loop #4 onto peg #5 and loop # 9 onto peg #10.  Do this to both boards.  Lift loop #17 onto peg #16, and loop #12 onto #11.  Do this to both boards.  We are decreasing by 4 stitches.  Now there are 16 sts on loom.

Work 2 regular rows in stockinette.

Repeat dec row #2.  Work 1 regular row.

Repeat dec row #2 again.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec #4-decrease by 3 sts.  Lift loop #3 onto peg #4, both boards, both ends, and one dec in center of knitting.  There are 9 sts remaining.   Work 1 reg row.

Repeat dec row #4-so that you now have 6 sts remaining.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec 1 st at each end of loom on both boards.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec 1 st at each end of loom on both boards, and bind off the last sts.  THIS PIECE IS DONE.

Now, make a 2nd piece exactly the same-it will go so much faster than the first.

 

ready to put togetherYou now need to sew them together using the invisible stitch.  If you look at the outer edges of the hat pieces, you will see where you want to do the sewing-right on the outer edge, so that you can just pull the pieces together.  I like to pin the pieces in place before beginning.  You can do this with some nice smooth double pointed knitting needles, or, find some very smooth toothpicks.

 

 

pinned together for sewing

 

Do the sewing with matching yarn, aprox 3′ long.  Use a darning needle to make the stitches.  The yarn used in the sample is a contrast color yarn.  This was done on purpose, so you can see the stitches, and then see how it disappears once pulled snug into the knitting.

The bind off of each piece can be done before the sewing, and remove the anchor yarn, or you can leave them in until after the sewing.  I will use this method, so we can have one continuous bind off all around the hat.

Start sewing at one corner of hat at anchor yarn by simply tying the yarn about 1″ from bottom edge.  Bring yarn up thru the knit to the starting point for sewing.

 

edges to be sewn

This is ready to sew together.  With darning needle, start on one edge and grab the cross stitch inside the edge.  Without pulling it tight, grab the cross stitch inside other edge.  Keep following the seam by alternating from one edge to the other.  After working for about 2″, you can gently pull the working yarn to bring the 2 edges together.  See the pale yellow yarn sewn loosely, and then see how it totally disappears in the next photo.You can gently shape the top of the hat to be rounded or flat across the top, just with the sewing.

 

stitching

invisible sewing.2

 

Once you have sewn the hats pieces together, you are ready to do a nice finish on the hat brim. This will be a simple crochet bind off as shown in Part I of Double Knit 101. The bind off will connect the 2 pieces with a seamless finished edge.  Remove the 2 anchor yarns.  Weave in any yarn tails, trim excess and your hat is ready to wear.  Add adornments if desired, like a little round flower.

Basic Increase preview-Making a circle.

circle

Cast On 3 sts stockinette. Place anchor yarn.

Work 1 reg row.

Inc from st #1 to peg #2, both ends and both boards. Work row.

Work 1 reg row.

Continue with inc row, now moving stitch #2 to peg #3, and 1 regular row until you have 13 stitches.

Work 2 reg rows.

Inc row, continue till you have 15 sts.

Work 3 regular rows.

Complete in reverse using the dec instead of inc.

Keep working until you are back to 3 sts.

Bind off at both anchor, and loom.

So how is the basic Inc done in double knit?  Pretty much like the Dec except move the 1st stitch out to new empty peg.  You have an empty peg between st 1 and st 2.  Instead, pick up the loop behind the adjacent peg (this is the last row dropped off) of peg #3.  Place that loop onto the empty peg.  You now have a new stitch on that empty peg.  If you do this to both sides and both ends, your next row will have 2 more stitches. With 5 stitches, now do the inc rows from stitch #2 to peg #3.

Cast on 3 sts.     Move stitch #1 to new peg creating empty peg.  Same on both boards and at both ends.

caston 3 sts

move 2 peg out2

 

 

 

Now you see row with 7 stitches.  We are lifting the loop from the previous row to place on the empty peg for the new stitch.  Next photo shows the new stitches.  Weave this row and hook over.

We can go into more detail for the inc process next month, when we will be talking about some color additions, and intarsia designs.  We will want to cover buttonholes, for sure.  After that some new exciting stitches.  Join us here!inc to empty peg

stitch to pick up

6 Comments

  • Pat,
    Another great article. Really like the explanation of he invisible stitch. That is the only stitch I use when sewing together items. Am looking forward to next article when you talk about Intarsia design, a favorite topic and one people like to learn. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with everyone.

  • Thank you, Sue. I agree with the sewing stitch-it seems to work in so many situations. Pat

  • I love these tutorials. That circle would be great to make the bottom of a knitted bag.

  • Hi Claudia, that’s a great idea. How about the bottom of a basket or cup holder, even a knitting board bag. Thanks, Pat

  • Awesome tutorial! While I didn’t make the hat (yet), I did use it to make the top of a hanging towel and it worked great. Thank you so much! I looked at other tutorials and they just didn’t explain it the way you did, you made it so easy. I agree with you and Claudia, a basket would be fun to make.

  • Hi Jen, That’s a super use of creating a circular piece-I hadn’t thought of that. Great creative idea. Pat

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Apr 23, 2016

Oven Mitt & Hot pad Set

Oven Mitt Set Small 2

Add a special touch to your kitchen with a set of customized oven mitt set. Makes and excellent hostess gift too! Worked in garter stitch and felted to provide the user with a thick fabric that will keep the heat away from the fingers. 

LOOM:  Hat Loom, at large gauge (40 pegs and 20 pegs)

YARN:  Approx 300 yds of bulky weight of wool mohair blend.  Shown in Cranberry Swirl (250 yds) and Lime Sorbet (50 yds)

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

GAUGE: Approx 3.5 sts x 4 rows = 2 inches (gauge not imperative).

SIZE:
Hot pad: Before felting 10×10 inches. After felting 8.5 x 8.5 inches.
Oven Mitt: Before felting 14×8 inches. After felting 12 x 7 inches.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

ewrap k=ewrap knit

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)
MC=Main color (cranberry swirl)

CC=Contrasting color (lime sorbet)

PATTERN NOTE: Both items are worked completely with the ewrap knit stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Hot PadHot Pad

Set knitting loom XS setting-with pegs every other hole, 28 pegs.

Using MC, CO 28 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: e-wrap k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: until item measures approximately 9.5 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Accent I-cordHot Pad with Icord

Using CC, CO 3 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work a 3-stitch i-cord that is approx. 45 inches long.

Assembly: using the mattress stitch, seam the icord to the edge of the hot pad. Create a small loop with the remaining icord (to use for hanging)

Oven Mitt

Set knitting loom Medium setting-with pegs every other hole, 40 pegs. 

Using MC, CO 40 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: ewrap k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: p to the end of rnd. 

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 15 more times (total of 30 rnds). (16 garter stitch ridges).Oven Mitt parts

BO 8sts, ewrap k to the end of row (32 sts). (Working in rows for the next 5 rows)

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end (32 sts).

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end (32 sts).

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end, CO 8 sts at end of row. (Begin working the rnd again).

Next rnd: p to end of rnd.

*Next rnd: ewrap k to end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to end of rnd. *Oven Mitt assembled

Rep from * to *: 14 more times. (total of 28 rnds). (16 garter stitch ridges from thumb opening).

Bind off with gather removal method.

Thumb 

Set knitting loom XS setting-with pegs every other hole, 28 pegs.

Using MC, CO 28 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 2: p to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 11 more times. (total of 22 rnds). (12 garter stitch ridges.

Bind off with gather removal method. 

Assembly of Oven Mitt: Using the mattress stitch and MC, seam the thumb to the thumb opening in the thumb.

Accent I-cord 

Using CC, CO 3 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work a 3-stitch i-cord that is approx. 25  inches long.

Assembly: using the mattress stitch, seam the icord to the cast on edge of the oven mitt. Create a small loop with the remaining icord (to use for hanging)

FELTING INSTRUCTIONS side view

The magic in this knitting happens when you wash the untreated wool with hot water and the item shrinks, making the stitches smaller, and the fabric thicker.

You will need the following:

1 pillow case with a zipper

Safety Pin

2-3 jeans (to use in agitation)

Eucalan Woolwash or Baby Shampoo

Towels (to squeeze out excess water).

Top Loader Washer

INSTRUCTIONS

Place all items to be felted inside the zippered pillow case. Secure the zipper with the safety pin (to ensure the pillow case doesn’t open).

Set washer to Small load, and Hot temperature.

Place 1 tsp of Eucalan Woolwash or 1 tsp of Baby Shampoo.

Place the jeans inside the washer.

Place the pillow case inside the washer.

Start the washer. Check the washer again BEFORE it goes into the spin cycle. If the item is not the desired size, re-start the washer from the beginning (simply turn the knob back to the beginning of the wash). Place the pillow case back in the washer and let it go through another cycle, stopping the washer BEFORE it was through the spin cycle. Check again. If not desired size, repeat. *The above samples took 3 cycles.

Once the items are the desired size, remove the items from the pillow case. Take them to the sink. If you used Eucalan Woolwash, rinsing is not required. If you used Baby Shampoo, rinse in cold water. Do not wring the excess water. Place a towel on a flat surface, then place the felted item on top of the towel. Pat dry as much as you can.

Set the items to air dry, away from the sun. The sun may discolor the yarn.

 

 

 

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Apr 16, 2016

Nautical Dishcloth Set

nautical set 3

This month we will bring you small accents to decorate your kitchen, anywhere from dishclothes, hanging towels, to placemats and perhaps even a kitchen rug. The Nautical Dishcloth set is the perfect way to add some color and to test out some new stitches. Remember, it is a dishcloth so perfection is not required, the dishes won’t mind if a stitch is amiss. Grab a loom and sit down outside to enjoy the spring air and knit away.

Knitting Loom: 32 peg Basics Loom

Yarn: Approx 150 grams of cotton worsted weight yarn. Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Nautical was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: Not imperative for project.

Sizes: Squares: 8×8”  | Dotted: 7.5×7.5”  | Scrubbie: 6.5×6.5”

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch (or may substitute with U-stitch).

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rep=Repeat

Sl 1 wyif=with yarn in front of the stitch (remove stitch from the peg, pass working yarn behind the peg, place stitch back on the peg, then work the next peg as instructed in pattern.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Squares DishclothSquares

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k to end of row.

Row 7: p3, k13, p16.

Rep Row 6 and Row 7: 10 more times (total of 20 rows).

Next row (left to right): k to end of row.

Next row: p16, k13, p3

Rep last two rows: 10 more times (total of 20 rows).

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last 2 rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

Dotted DishclothDotted

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k3, *k2, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 7: p3, k to last 3 sts,  p3.

Rep Rows 6 and 7: 18 more times (36 total rows).

Next row: k to the end row.

Next row: p to the end of row.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

Scrubbie DishclothScrubbie

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k to end of row.

Row 7: p3, *k1, sl 1 wyif, rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Rep Rows 6 and 7: 18 more times (36 total rows).

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

 

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Apr 11, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Primrose

Whimsical Loom Knits – April 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

IMG_3500

Celebrate the arrival of Spring with this sweet little flower.  This fun project is a quick and easy way to use up small yarn remnants from other projects.  Use these pretty blossoms to embellish anything from hats, hair bows, headbands, afghan squares, refrigerator magnets, wreaths, etc.  

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Approximately 5 yards of worsted weight yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Finished Measurements: about 2″ diameter

Abbreviations:
K: knit
M1: make 1 (to increase)
K2Tog: knit 2 together (to decrease)

 

Instructions

Cast on 3 stitches.

Rows 1-2:  K3.

Row 3:  M1, K3.

Row 4:  K4.

Row 5:  M1, K4.

Rows 6-7:  K5.

Row 8:  K2, K2Tog, K1.

Row 9:  K1, K2tog, K1.

Row 10:  K3.

Row 11:  Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  (One stitch will remain on the loom.)

Row 12:  Skip the stitch on the loom and cast on 2 new stitches.

The first petal of the flower is now complete.  Repeat rows 1-12 until you have a total of 4 petals.

Repeat rows 1-10 once more.  Bind off all stitches, leaving a long yarn end.

The knitted piece will look similar to this:

IMG_3488

 

Finishing

Thread the long yarn end into the yarn needle.  Work a running stitch along the full length at the base of the petals.

IMG_3490

Pull the yarn end to tightly gather the center of the flower.  Use the yarn end to join the base of the last petal to the base of the first petal.

IMG_3491

Weave in the yarn ends and the little flower is done!

 

Check this out – Try this project out in a super fine or fingering weight yarn.  Use the same loom and follow the pattern as written for a slightly more delicate flower:

IMG_3486

Happy Spring!

 

4 Comments

  • How on earth do you knit the hoxey cowl please share the method.
    Desparet to learn.

  • Hello Maureen. I see that this is a pattern from Interweave Knits. Have you tried sending a message to Interweave Knits, or to the designer of the Hoxey Cowl?

  • Hello. This is a random question, but do you sell any of your work? If so, how to you calculate the price of each piece? Thanks.

  • I calculate my work per hour. If I design the item, I calculate a design fee, then if I have to knit the item, I charge a set fee per hour. Consequently, my knitted items have a design fee+knitting fee+yarn cost.

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Apr 4, 2016

Stitchology 20 : Spring Bunnies Stitch

Spring Bunnies Square

I’ve been pleased as punch with the way this month’s stitch turned out…so sweet!  There’s something special about the pairing of bunnies and spring, and this new stitch exemplifies them both quite nicely. :)  Wouldn’t this be a fantastic  stitch for a little girl’s jumper, or a baby layette? There is a bit of an unusual method for working the bunny ears, but it really is very simple to do.  I have included a tutorial video for this one, since the technique may be new to you.  Let’s dive in and learn this pretty design while whipping up an afghan square…

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Spring Bunnies Square

 

Spring Bunnies close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage sakura)

Notions: Loom tool, crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.

There are two types of decreases for creating the eyelets in this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning decrease worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning decrease worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[k2tog, yo]:  Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, u-stitch knit the k2tog peg, knitting off the 2 loops as one, and then e-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap empty yo peg, then u-stitch knit the ssk peg, knitting off the bottom 2 loops as one.

Making the Bunny Ears:

Where you see the symbol in the below charts for “Make new drop loop”, this is the peg which the bunny ears will be created and secured.  The steps to do so are as follows: (The “bunny ears” pegs are worked from right to left, with the numbers in this direction: 1, 2, 3, 4.)

—Knit the first 2 pegs of the 4 bunny ears pegs (pegs 4 & 3).

—Insert a crochet hook between pegs 2 & 3 of the 4 and poke it through the eyelet directly below.

—Wrap WY around crochet hook and pull a new loop though the eyelet and out the front of the pegs.

—Lift the loop 3 and pass newly made loop behind the peg.  Replace the loop 3.

—Lift the loop 4 and pass the right side of the newly made loop over the peg.  Replace the loop 4.  Cinch newly made loop in, but not too tightly.

—Knit pegs 2 & 1 of the 4.

—Again insert the crochet hook between pegs 2 & 3 and poke it through the same eyelet directly below.

—Wrap WY around crochet hook and pull a new loop through the eyelet and out the front of the pegs.

—Lift the loop 2 and pass newly made loop behind the peg.  Replace loop 2.

—Lift the loop 1 and pass the left side of the newly made loop over the peg. Replace the loop 1.  Cinch newly made loop in, but not too tightly.

—Continue with the rest of the row.

—The next row will work all pegs 1 and 4 of the bunny ears pegs as 2 over 1.  Make sure that these 2 pegs are worked without much tension throughout.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: p1, , k2, p1, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk.

Row 2: k8.

Row 3: k4, make a new drop loop (see above instructions in Pattern Notes), k2, make a new drop loop.

Row 4: k8, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.

Row 5: k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1.

Row 6: k8.

Row 7: make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4.

Row 8: k8, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

 

Bunny Ears Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

 

Spring Bunnies Square angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p38.

Row 2: k38.

Row 3: p38.

Row 4: k38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5:  p2, k5, *k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 6:  k38.

Row 7:  p2, k5, *make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 8: k38, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.

Row 9: p2, k1, *k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 10: k38.

Row 11: p2, k1, *make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 12: repeat Row 8.

Row 13: p2, k1, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 14: k38.

Rows 15-54: repeat Rows 7-14.

Rows 55-59: repeat Rows 7-11.

Finishing Rows

Row 60: k38.

Row 61: p38.

Row 62: k38.

Row 63: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

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Mar 28, 2016

Double Knit 101-Part II

Check out DOUBLE KNIT Part I for beginning of the series.

IMG_1791 (2)

Double Knit made simple, part II. Last month, we began with an overview of what double knit is and, why it works so well. Today…how to get started with the double knit basic cast on, and then cover some basic stitches. We will get into colorwork and cables in a few months.

For illustration, we are workng on the 10” Knitting Board and have it set for 2cm spacing between the pegs from rail to rail. This is the mid spacing on the wood blocks.  This loom has 24 double pegs, but we are going to use 14 stitches for illustration. Place cast on in the center of loom. I have chosen a pretty yarn  in #5 weight, Big Twists Yarn in 100% acrylic. This is a 2 ply yarn and works well in loom knitting.

Remember that in double knit, we want to use both sides of the loom, so that our resulting knit is interlocked.

Let’s begin…Place slip knot on the first peg on the back board.  When we refer to first stitch, it is the first stitch used for the cast on, not always the first on the board.

Back Board

slip knot start

Front Board

We are doing the basic wrap for cast on.   From the first peg on back board, wrap the 2nd peg on front board.  Wrap across the loom and skip every other peg.  Continue until you have the amount of stitches desired. Wrap around the end pegs, and work back to first peg, covering all skipped pegs.  You will end at peg on front board directly across from first peg.

You now have a ‘full circular’ on the loom.  You are ready to place an anchor yarn.

stockinette weave3

 

The anchor yarn is not a requirement, but you will see how easily it makes the first row, and controls all the stitches. Most times the anchor yarn will be removed when you get done with the knitting, and you will finish off the cast on stitches with a nice crochet edge. Other times, the anchor yarn stays in and becomes a drawstring to gather the stitches together like in the crown of a hat. It is also useful to help pull down the first few rows of knitting and keep the tension even. A pattern will tell you when to use a contrast color of yarn for the anchor since it will be removed, or, to use a matching yarn that will remain in the knitting for another use.

lay anchor2

You will notice that the anchor yarn only covers the stitch area and the ends drop down between the boards.  It works best if you make it long enough to tie under the board.  This way, it is not accidentally pulled out.

At this point, you are ready to add another row of weaving. Work it just like you did the first row.  Wrap the first peg and down the the 2nd peg on front board and continue across the stitches wrapping every other peg.  Turn around at end, and wrap the pegs going back towards first peg.  There will now be 2 loops on each peg, and the anchor yarn is between. Let the anchor yarn assist you when you ‘hook over’ this cast on row.  Hooking over is just the term used to describe the action of lifting the bottom loop over the top.  See below.

 

stockinette over anchor2

 

 

 

 

 

caston_row2

 

 

 

 

 

With knit hook, lift bottom loops over top loops and off pegs.  Take loop up and over, and drop it off of peg.  You will do the ‘hook over’ on all stitches on both boards.  Hint:  In order to keep the sides of the knit even, do the hook over as in the photos from Left side of knit to about center of the stitches.  Then go to the Right side of knit and work to the center, so that all pegs are completed.  Just vary the center point, so that you do not create a line in the knit. This will keep edges even. Work pegs on other side of loom also.

Hooking over1f

hooking over3f

After you do the ‘hook over’ on all stitches, you can just push them down in center between the boards, and pull down gently on the anchor yarn.  Your stitches are now Cast On.  You are ready to work in Stockinette or Rib stitch, or any other that you will learn.

Stockinette stitch:  This is the basic stitch and forms a smooth knit on both sides.  It is done exactly like the weave of the cast on row.

The Rib stitch:  To create a rib pattern, the weave is just slightly different.  Let’s look at the cream yarn to see the difference.  Wrap the back board on first peg and then down to the 3rd peg on front board.  You can see the angle is more extreme than with stockinette.  You are working from peg 1 to peg 3 by skipping the first 2 pegs on front board. Continue with this angle and wrap every other peg to end of knit.  Wrap the yarn around the end pegs and return.  The first stitch is consecutive with the end pegs.  Then you will be working all empty pegs.

full rib weave

 

 

return weave rib2

 

 

As you return to first peg, you will see that you are still working from peg 1 to peg 3, and then, every other.  The first 2 pegs will be wrapped consecutively.  Just be sure to cover all pegs. You will also notice that you are working at opposite angle with the weaving.  This is what creates the ribs.  You will find as you work the stitch pattern, your stitches will create pairs of  stitches for each rib.

Once you get back to the first stitch, all pegs should have 2 loops.  The ‘hook over’ process is the same as the Stockinette stitch.  Continue with the Rib weave as long as desired or according to your pattern.

Back to Back Stitch:  Sometimes, you want to just add a few stitches for accent or make the entire knitted piece in a simple stitch referred to as the Back to Back stitch.  It takes only one pass of the loom for each row.  Just weave front to back on the pegs of each stitch.

b_b weave2

The finished knit will look similar to the Stockinette, but may be a bit looser.  We will use it later, in color work.

 

 

 

 

BIND OFF: So enough for our basic stitches, let’s learn how to take the knit off the loom, Bind Off.  We need to bind off at the loom, and then, at the anchor yarn of the Cast On stitches.

bind off loomStart on the end of the loom opposite the yarn, or the back end.  You can go ahead and cut the yarn leaving a few inches of ‘yarn tail’.  The yarn tail is usually about 3-4″ long and will be used to knot the last stitch.

Insert the crochet hook into the first stitch on back board.  Lift it off the loom.  Then, pick up the first stitch on the front board.  You have 2 loops on the crochet hook.  Pull the loop closest to the hook thru the other loop.  Now pick up the next loop on the back board.  Pull the loop closest to hook thru the other loop.  Pick up the next loop from the front board.  Pull one thru one.  Continue this process, alternating front board and back board until you have the last loop on the hook.  Now, you are at that yarn tail, so you can pull it thru the last loop and gently tighten.

Now, we are looking at Cast On stitches with the anchor yarn.  We want to put a nice even finish on this end also.

anchor in cast on

bind off anchor2

 

 

 

 

 

Start at end opposite the yarn tail.  Pick up just the first 2 loops.  Pull the loop closest to the hook thru the other loop, just as you did on the loom Bind Off.  Continue across the knit until you reach the last loop and use the yarn tail to knot the edge.

bind off anchor

 

 

You can just use your fingers to assist with moving one loop on the crochet hook thru the other loop.

 

 

Once the ends of your scarf are finished with the Crochet Bind Off, just weave the yarn tails into the knit.  Take the crochet hook up thru the 2 layers of knit so that the hook comes out close to yarn tail.  Draw the  yarn into the knit, carefully, so that even the knot is tucked away, out of sight.  Then just remove the crochet hook by taking it out the end with the hook.  This way, you will not snag the knit.

yarn tail

With what you have learned about double knit, you can create your first completed item. YAY!!  How about using the stitches to do a new scarf.

SIMPLE SCARF

Get loom and yarn, knit hook, and crochet hook in hand.  Cast on 14 stitches in Stockinette stitch, add anchor yarn, and continue for about 12 rows.  Then with no change of pace, just start the next row in Rib stitch.  Work in Rib stitch for 12 rows.  Then start next row in Stockinette stitch.  On and on you will go, until you look down and have a great scarf.  You may decide to work the scarf using 20 or 22 stitches.  That’s your choice.  Then bind off stitches at both ends.

rib_stockinette scarf

 

Now, let’s look at how our two stitches look as a stitch pattern.  Remember, our stitch pattern was 12 rows of Stockinette stitch, 12 rows of Rib stitch, and repeating all the way down.  A scarf can be made as long as desired and this one could be really long if you used a full skein (ball) of yarn and knit it with just 14 stitches.  Or maybe you decided to make it wider and shorter.  That’s the fun of being creative with our double knit.

The photo (below) shows the double knit edge of the scarf.  It is always easy to count your completed rows by counting the stitches along the outer edge. The next photo (below) shows how to pick up the horizontal cross stitch on the edge of double knit when you want to sew 2 edges together with an invisible stitch.  We will cover both of these topics next month along with some increase and decrease techniques to add shape to the knit.  HAPPY KNITTING!

edge of scarf_arrow

Edge of Knitted Scarf

edge cross stitch

Side of Knitted Scarf

13 Comments

  • Both links went to lesson part 2, (even the one that was meant to be for part 1!) but I missed part 1 and could not find out how to find it. Is it possible to send the correct link please?

  • Thanks, I have now found part 1 on the website, even though the link in the email goes to part 2.

  • Here is the link for Part I:

    http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/5174

  • I wonder if the “Back to Back” stich is the one that has the same effect than knitting flat.

  • I too would like the lesson 1..I have been gone and I do have the board and all I need to do this. Thankyou, Joann

  • Hi Jane, sorry for the error. We have added a link for Part I on the page of part II. So once you go to the new part II, you will see the link to click on Part I. Thanks for your patience. Pat

  • Hi, see the link to part I when you view part II. thanks, Pat

  • Thank you, We have added it to the part II also.

  • Pat, once again, great article on double knit. I hope with all your clear and excellent instructions that folks will get excited about double knit as well as single. Both are exciting and offer so much variety to the knitter on the knitting boards. Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us all!!

  • Thanks Sue. You are such a fabulous double knitter, yourself. Please add any other thoughts to share with us, if you’d like. Pat

  • Hi Guys :)
    Link to the squares isn’t working:
    To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

  • Hi Kim-I will check it out-thank you so much for the heads-up. Pat

  • Hi Kim and Pat :)

    Just wanted to let you know that the link error is now corrected. It occurred when the categories for the site were changed. ;) Thanks for letting us know, Kim!

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Mar 25, 2016

Spring Mountain Shawl

Designed by Bethany A Dailey

bethany_shawl

With the first seasonal turns of winter into spring, warming winds wrap themselves around mountain peaks, sending waters of thawing snow caps cascading downwards into the welcoming valleys below. The craggy rocks beneath the crests begin to peek out through the ice and snow, bringing with them the hope of wildflowers and new life after the season of cold.  This asymmetrical shawl embodies this feeling of winter giving way to spring…a little bit blanketed, a little bit revealed, just like those thawing mountain peaks.

Knitting Loom: Zippy Loom, 20 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 465 yards of bulky weight yarn, two strands held as one. Sample used Charisma Tweed (5 skeins in the color Gray) 93 yds/85 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter, one or two large decorative buttons.

Gauge: Approx 3 sts x 1.75 rows= 4 inches (in Figure Eight Stitch) **Note: This is a very stretchy stitch, so all measurements are approximate.

Finished Measurements: Width from neck to elbow: 15″, Length before seaming: 74″, Length at longest point while worn: 36″  (The size of this shawl can easily be adjusted by changing the number of pegs used and rows knitted.)

Skills Needed: E-wrap, Figure Eight Stitch, Chain CO (or CO of your choice), Basic BO, seaming method of choice.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held throughout.

*Create the Figure Eight Stitch (in single knitting):

  • —To begin, wrap around the outside of peg 1, then around peg 2 as if to EW. Your WY will travel in a sort of figure 8 motion, hence the name of the stitch. KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Carrying the yarn behind peg 2, wrap around peg 3 as if to EW, then back around peg 2. KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Carrying the yarn behind peg 3, wrap around peg 4 as if to EW, then back around peg 3.  KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Continue in this manner to the end of the row.

See tutorial video for more details:

Instructions

Set loom to work in a flat panel using 20 pegs.  CO onto all 20 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-52:  Work Figure Eight Stitch on all 20 pegs.

**Note: Due to the loose nature of this stitch, when adding a new skein, tie the end of the WY and the beginning of the new skein securely into a square knot.  Thread one of the tails onto a yarn needle and work into the strands of the WY at one side of the knot, parting the plies in the yarn to help the end remain secure.  Repeat for the 2nd tail. 

Loosely BBO all 20 pegs.

Finishing

Being careful not to pull too tightly which will cause puckering, neatly stitch the inside edges of the panel together, starting at the bottom edges, for approximately 21″ (sample uses the mattress stitch). Stitch the button(s) in place as desired onto the back side of the remaining opening.

Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

Figure Eight Stitch on Zippy

13 Comments

  • Is there any audio with the video on the figure 8 stitch on the zippy?

  • Nope. I figured it was very self explanatory without any verbal explanation. ;)

  • Hi thanks so much for this pattern, it’s beautiful and it is just the type of shawl that I love. I looked everywhere for a airy type of Shawl pattern a beginner can do and this is perfect. I also wanted to tell Gin that if you check out YouTube you can find verbal institutions to the figure 8 stitch. :)

  • Hi Britt! :) Thank you so much for your lovely comment…I’m so glad you like it!

  • Do you use the figure 8cast on?

  • I actually used the Chain Cast On. :)

  • Thank you Bethany I can not ain’t to get started I am a beginner and hope I will be able to make this beautiful shawl Again thanks a million

  • You are so welcome, Gin…any time! :) I believe that you will have great success with this one, as it is really just the same stitch repeated throughout…perfect for a beginner loomer. Enjoy!

  • I have another dumb question Sorry about this but is this worked on 5 zippys without any corner piece. I don’t know the video shows the corners and I am new to this looming

  • You can choose your own configuration of 20 pegs, as it is worked as a flat panel…can be 5 Zippys on a line or 4 Zippys and 4 corners. ;)

  • Thanks again for the help

  • Beautiful pattern intro, Bethany! The shawl is lovely, too – and Emily is just as pretty as can be :)

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jenny! :D That is so sweet to hear!

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Mar 21, 2016

Loom FAQs: Is Loom Knitting Cheating?

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Most people who loom knit have at some point come across a needle knitter who tells them “that is cheating” or “that’s not real knitting”.  It can be very hurtful to be told these things.  Especially for those who are first learning.

But…  Is it cheating?  Questions that I see are  When did loom knitting first start?  Which came first needles or looms?  How can it be cheating when the stitches look exactly the same after it is made?

Personally I love it when someone sees a finished project I have made and then asks me me what size needles I used.  That look when I say “I knit this on a loom.”  Disbelief every time.

Let’s take a look at the history of loom knitting as well as the pros and cons of looms vs. needles.  Watch your toes!  Some may get stepped on by accident…

What is the earliest know knitted item?

The oldest known knitted artifact are socks from Egypt in the 11th century AD.  These socks had a very fine gauge and included colorwork as well as turned heels.  This would indicate that the art of knitting went back a lot further with no way to know where it developed or even what tool was used to knit with.

Is loom knitting new since I am just now seeing more knitting looms in stores?

Not really.  Loom knitting dates back centuries.  It hasn’t always been known as loom knitting.  Some names used were peg frame knitting from the late 14th century, stocking frame knitting for knitting stockings during the time of Queen Elizabeth I in the 16th century (which upset the needle knitters then too, by the way), as well as terms such as ring, wheel, rake, French, and spool knitting depending on the era and location.

There has just been a resurgence in the popularity of loom knitting in the past 2 decades.  More companies are mass producing knitting looms for retail making it easier to buy them.  Back in the mid to late 20th century, knitting looms could be bought, but most were by mail order only or in kid’s craft sets.  And with the advent of the internet, instructions are much easier to find than when I received my first looms as a child whether it is written instructions or video tutorials.  Also the selection of patterns has increased tremendously which is absolutely wonderful!

Which came first needles or looms?

This information is hard to find.  Some sources will say that looms predated needles and vice versa.  Probably depends on who is writing the information and which tool they prefer using…

Looming and knitting are different, aren’t they?

No.  It’s all knitting.  Looms are the tool, just as needles are the tool used.  No matter what the tool used, it’s still knitting.  People who use needles don’t call it needling…  Just saying…

But hand knitting is not the same as loom knitting…

If it’s not made with a machine, it is made by hand.  Whether it is done on needles or on a loom.  Hand knit only means that it was made with hands and not a machine.

Is loom knitting only for children?

No it isn’t.  Unless you want to count your inner child…  While there have always been a lot of loom knit kits packaged and targeted for children, it is not just a child’s toy.  Most kids do find loom knitting easier to grasp than needle knitting.  But whatever encourages their creativity to blossom!  That is the goal after all.

 

 

What are the pros and cons of looms vs. needles?

Each has it’s benefit.  Each has it’s deficit.

Let’s begin with the cost of the tools themselves.  It’s cheaper to buy needles in all sizes and gauges than it is to buy looms in all sizes and gauges.  Plus 1 for needles.

Another pro of needles is portability.  Needles take up less room than a loom does.  Most times they are more portable than looms depending on the loom.

Some will say that more can be done on needles than on looms.  That is not necessarily the case.  As far as I know, only large cables are almost impossible on looms and easier on needles due to being able to stretch the stitches across the other stitches to create the cables.  Therefore, anything that can be knit on needles can be knit on looms.

But looms have their pros as well that needles do not.

Such as it’s easier on the hands to work with looms than needles.  Lots of people with arthritis can loom knit long after needles no long become an option.

Looms are also better than needles since each stitch has it’s own “needle” making it harder to drop stitches.  This also makes traveling easier despite the size of the loom.  No worries about those stitches sliding off the needles in transit.  Not saying it can’t happen with looms.  It just doesn’t happen as often.

So…  Is loom knitting cheating?

No.  It’s just a different tool to achieve the same thing.  Each knit or purl stitch looks exactly the same once finished since the yarn itself is worked in exactly the same way to create the stitch.  Two different people can take the exact same yarn and create the exact same thing with one using a loom and the other using needles, and they will look exactly the same when finished.

Next time someone tells you that loom knitting is cheating, just smile and say thank you.  They will wonder why you thanked them.  Most likely it will annoy them as well.  There isn’t any need to get upset.  It’s all fiber art after all.  What a dreary world we would live in if we couldn’t take a “string” and create something amazing.  No matter what tool we use to do it.

I do wish we had some sort of national council to established guidelines that define everything loom knit like gauge sizes, terminology, standardize pattern writing, abbreviations, etc., just like with needles knitting and crochet.  It would help with the confusion created among the masses since there are people who are doing their own thing and creating their own terminology when writing patterns.

Hope not too many toes are sore after this!  While some people won’t agree with all I have said, it really isn’t worth getting upset over something we all enjoy and love.  And that something is KNITTING!  So grab a ball of yarn and pick up a loom or some needles and CREATE SOMETHING AMAZING!!

4 Comments

  • I am with you on the need of standards being set. I really struggle sometimes trying to understand between one pattern and another.!!

  • Thank you for the great information. I have researched loom and needle knitting as well to inform people. They find it hard to believe I am knitting until I show a finished item, then they believe. Have actually converted some folks over. Thanks again, more info to pass on.

  • Thanks for interesting article .I love loom knitting because it is easier on my hands and like you people can not believe I can whip up a baby hat in no time.

  • Hi Caroline, I can still remember when I first started loom double knitting-I was amazed at it also. I just love it. Pat

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Mar 20, 2016

Spring Blossoms Cowl

Spring Blossoms Cowl

Welcome springtime with this beautiful cowl. The Spring Blossoms cowl depicts a lovely daisy stitch created with the aid of elongated stitches. Worked in two different colors to accent the small daisies.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom 73 pegs.

YARN:  Approx 350 yds of worsted weight of merino wool.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Tadpole and Boysenberry was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle.

GAUGE: 11sts x 13 rows = 2 inches.

SIZE:  14 x 13 inches (flat)

ABBREVIATIONScowl slanted

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

A=Main color (Boysenberry)

B=Contrasting color (Tadpole)

Daisy Chain Stitch (Row 1-Row 20 below)
(Multiple of 6 sts plus 1)

Row 1: With A, k to the end of row.

Row 2: With A, p to the end of row.

Row 3: With A, k1, *[k1, wrap yarn 3 times around peg] 5 times, k1; rep from * to end

Row 4: With A, *p1, Cluster st; rep from *, end p1.

Row 5: With A, k to end of row.

Row 6: With A, p to end of row.

Row 7-10: With B, k to the end of row.

Row 11: With A, k to the end of row.

Row 12: With A, p to the end of row.

Row 13: With A, k4, *[k1, wrap yarn 3 times around peg] 5 times, k1; rep from *, end k3.

Row 14: With A, p3, *p1, Cluster st; rep from *, end k4.

Row 15: With A, k to end of row.

Row 16: With A, p to end of row.

Row 17-20: With B, k to the end of row.

Rep rows 1-20.

Cluster st: With working yarn to the back of the loom, drop the extra wraps on the 5 pegs, slide these wraps to the cable needle and hold the cable needle, wrap the working yarn clockwise around these 5 stitches two times. Place stitches from the cable needle back on the pegs. (See pictures for how-tos).

INSTRUCTIONSDaisy Stitch Close up

Set knitting loom to 73 pegs.

With B, CO 73 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-Row 20: Work Daisy Stitch.

Continue Daisy Stitch until panel measures 27 inches from cast on edge.

End on a Row 20. Bind off with basic bind off method.

Mattress stitch the cast on edge to bind off edge.

**To create a shawl instead of a cowl, continue knitting in the Daisy Stitch pattern until panel measures approximately 68 inches from cast on edge (end on a row 20).

Photo Tutorials (click on pictures to enlarge).

Row 3 of the Daisy Stitch Pattern states the following: With A, k1, *[k1, wrap yarn 3 times around peg] 5 times, k1; rep from * to end.

The following pictures show the steps on how to wrap the pegs and how the pegs would look after being wrapped.  Wrap the pegs counterclockwise, 3 times. Each peg should end up with 4 loops on it (the stitch, and three wraps).

wrapping pegs collage
Dropping the stitches to create the elongated stitches that will eventually create the Daisy Stitch.

Dropping stitches collage

The following pictures will show the Cluster Stitch—dropping the extra wraps, placing the stitches on the cable needle, wrapping the yarn around the middle of the stitches.

Place the elongated stitches on cable needle.

Stitches on Cable needle

Wrap the working yarn around the elongated stitches.

Wrap Cluster Collage

Place stitches from cable needle back on the pegs.

Loops back on pegs Collage

 

6 Comments

  • Fantastic!! I absolutely LOVE it! :D

  • Thank you Bethany :). It makes me happy to see the little stitches.

  • When working with 2 different colors how would you go about knitting every other stitch a different color?

  • Please guide me i am seeking help to create hoxey cowl meghan huber
    She alterates colors between stitches for seedstitch creating colorful piece
    Any one that can explain method inwould love to larn this
    Respectfully maureen.

  • Knit the row with A color skipping every other peg; then knit all the pegs you skipped with color B

  • I don’t know which cowl you are referring to. Is this a pattern on our website?

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Mar 14, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Loom Knit Monkey Hat

Designed by Jenny Stark

Mix a little fun and function with this charming hat.  Worked in a soft, fluffy yarn, this hat will be comfy, warm, and oh so cute!  Loom knit an adorable monkey hat for your favorite little ‘monkey’!

IMG_3446

Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom Set

Yarn: 3 balls of Bernat Pipsqueak – 1 in Chocolate, 1 in Neapolitan, and 1 in Vanilla.

Scrap of worsted weight yarn for the nostrils and mouth.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors, buttons for eyes ( .5″ diameter), needle and thread (to attach eyes)

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: Youth

Abbreviations:

K = knit stitch

K2tog = knit 2 together (decrease)

M1 = make 1 (increase)

P = purl stitch

Sl = slip

Techniques

Double E-wrap Cast-On:  Wrap the first peg twice.  With the knitting tool, pull the lower wrap past the upper wrap and over the top of the peg.  Repeat this process for each of the remaining pegs.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Slip:  For the purposes of this project, slip simply means to skip the peg.

Make 1:  For the purposes of this project, simply cast on an additional stitch using the double e-wrap cast on method.

K2tog:  Decrease- worked over two pegs.  Move the stitch from the first peg over to the second peg.  Knit both stitches on the second peg together as one.

Gathered Bind Off:  Loosely wrap the working yarn in a circle around all of the pegs that have stitches – two times.  This will ensure that the yarn tail is long enough to complete the bind off.  Cut the working yarn, then unwrap the long yarn tail from around the pegs.  Lay the yarn tail below the stitch on peg 1.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  *Lay the yarn tail below the next stitch.  Using the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the stitch.  Repeat from * for all stitches on the loom.  Once all stitches have been bound, remove the knitting from the loom.  Pull on the yarn tail to cinch the opening closed (unless otherwise directed by the pattern being worked).  Bind off is now complete.

Basic Bind Off:  Knit the first two pegs.  Move the stitch from the second peg over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  One stitch has now been bound off. Move the stitch from peg 1 to the empty peg.  This is now peg 1.  Knit the next stitch.  Move the stitch that was just knit over to the first peg.  Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.  Continue working in this manner until there is one stitch left. Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail that is at least 4” long.  Wrap the yarn tail around the last peg.  Knit the last stitch over the yarn tail and pull the yarn tail out through the stitch.  Bind off is now complete.

 

Instructions

Set up

Small loom, small gauge (68 pegs)

(2) 25 peg rounded loom pieces

(4) 3 peg connectors

(2) 3 peg rails

Connect the components listed above to create the small size/small gauge loom:

IMG_3449

Hat

(Worked in the round)  With the Neapolitan yarn, cast on 68 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rounds 1-12:  K2, P2 to the end of the round.

Switch to the Chocolate yarn.

Rounds 13-40:  E-wrap knit to the end of the round.

Rounds 41-42:  K3, P1 to the end of the round.

Remove the hat from the loom using the gathered bind off method.  Carefully gather the top of  the hat closed and weave in all yarn ends.

 

Ears  (make 2)

With the Chocolate yarn, cast on 5 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method. (Leave a 6″ yarn end)

Row 1:  Sl 1, K4.

Row 2:  P4, K1.

Row 3:  Sl 1, K3.

Row 4:  P3, K1.

Row 5:  Sl 1, K2.

Row 6:  P2, K1.

Row 7:  Sl 1, K1.

Row 8:  P1, K1.

Repeat rows 1-8 eight times.  Repeat rows 1-2 once more.  Remove the ear from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Leave a 6″ yarn end.

Use the yarn ends to sew an ear to each side of the hat.  (Tip:  Try placing the hat on a Styrofoam head before choosing ear placement.)  Weave in all yarn ends.

 

Muzzle

With the Vanilla yarn, cast on 5 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method. (Leave a 7″ yarn end)

Row 1:  Sl 1, K4.

Row 2:  M1, P4, K1.

Row 3:  M1, K6.

Row 4:  M1, P6, K1.

Row 5:  M1, K8.

Row 6:  M1, P8, K1.

Row 7:  Sl 1, K9.

Row 8:  Sl 1, P8, K1.

Row 9:  Repeat row 7.

Row 10:  Repeat row 8.

Row 11:  Repeat row 7.

Row 12:  Repeat row 8.

Row 13:  Sl 1, K7, K2tog.

Row 14:  Sl 1, P6, K2tog.

Row 15:  Sl 1, K5, K2tog.

Row 16:  Sl 1, P4, K2tog.

Row 17:  Sl 1, K3, K2tog.

Row 18:  Sl 1, P3, K1.

Remove the muzzle from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Leave a 10″ yarn end.

Use the yarn ends to sew the muzzle in place on the front of the hat, just above the brim.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Using the needle and thread, sew the button eyes in place, just above the muzzle.

Thread the worsted weight yarn into the tyarn needle and add nostrils and a mouth to the muzzle.

 

Pom pom

Using the Chocolate yarn, the Neapolitan yarn, and the Vanilla yarn, all held together as one, create a large pom pom.  (The pom pom in the sample was created by wrapping all 3 strands of yarn around my hand, approximately 30 times.)  Attach the pom pom to the top of the hat and weave in the yarn ends.

Happy Loom Knitting!

IMG_3443

 

 

3 Comments

  • For the ears it says “Repeat rows 1-8 eight times.” How many times is the repeat? I’m so confused.

  • nvm I read it again and it says repeat 8 times. Oops – my mistake! Such a cute hat, I think I’ll make one for my niece.

  • I like what you guys are up too. Such clever work and reporting!
    Keep up the great works guys I’ve incorporated you guys to blogroll.

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Mar 11, 2016

Mila’s Zippy Cowl

 

 

Mila's Cowl

Creating last minute gift with the Zippy loom is a breeze!

LOOM:  Zippy Loom. Option: 4 Zippy and connectors. 4 Zippy and (4) corners.

YARN:  Approx 80 yds of Jumbo (size 7) acrylic yarn.  Lion Brand Color Clouds in Travelers Tan was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 4.25sts x 6 rows = 4 inches.

SIZE:  11” wide x 18” long.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Approx=approximately
  • k=knit stitch
  • p=purl stitch
  • CO=Cast on
  • BO=Bind off
  • st(s)=stitch(es)
     

INSTRUCTIONS

Set Zippy loom to work in the round (4) Zippy and (4) Corners.

CO 16 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Rnd 1-Rnd 7: k to end of row.

Rnd 8: p to the end of row. 

Rnd 9: k to end of row. 

Rep Row 8-Row 9: 4 times. 

Rep Rows 1-9: 2 more times. 

Next: Bind off with basic removal method, leaving a 16 inch yarn tail.

Mattress stitch the cast on edge to bind off edge. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

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Mar 7, 2016

Stitchology 19 : Irish Moss

March is the month filled with green and all things Irish!  Also known as Double Moss Stitch, this month’s design is another one of those wonderful stitches that consist of only knits and purls— perfect for a quick knit with loads of texture and possible future uses. This stitch’s compact nature resembles single crochet.  It also lays flat, and is completely identical from front to back, making it perfect for use on items that will be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Irish Moss Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 4—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P40

Row 2:  K40

Row 3:  P40

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  K3, *p1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: P3, *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, p1.

Row 6: K2, *p1, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: P2, *k1, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rows 8-62:  Rep Rows 4-7, ending with Row 6.

Finishing Rows

Row 63: P40

Row 64:  K40

Row 65:  P40

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

8 Comments

  • Beautiful work, Bethany! Stitchology is such a fabulous resource for the loom knitting community.

  • It lists rows 4,5,6,7 then 10 then followed by rows8-62, in the written part I’m confused. Do we go to row 8 after 7 and repeat the pattern and for get about row 10 in written part?

  • Haha! Oopsie, you are correct. There was an errant row left in there from the template. I have corrected the pattern to *not* have that Row 10. ;) Thanks for the heads up!

  • Awww…thank you so much, Jenny! I hope it is and will remain so! :)

  • Absolutely beautiful Bethany! I feel inspired to make a dishcloth or an afghan square out of this. I love stitchology; I have learned so much from these articles. :)

  • Yay, thank you, Colleen! You make me smile, as inspiration and knowledge is the point of the whole column. I’m so happy to hear things like this to know that it is doing its job! :D

  • I have been looking all over for something like this…never thought to check out this blog. The idea behind stichology, and the way it is set up is great. I like that it has both charts and written instructions. Now I can finally make pretty well anything I want with my 28″ KB. Thanks for all the work you put into stitchology.

  • Cath, this is so nice of you…I’m so pleased to hear you enjoy Stitchology and find it so useful! :D We will be looking for the stitches featured in your future projects. :)

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Mar 3, 2016

Zippy Loom Youtube Contest!

Do you have great zippy ideas? What have you made on your zippy looms? Make a video of your creative idea and enter to win prizes!!

VideoContest_BlogImage

Entering is as simple as using the Zippy! We are looking for creativity and originality on fun ways to use the zippy loom.

3 Simple Steps…

1. Take a video using Zippy loom
2. Post on youtube, and put in subject “zippy video contest”
3. Send us a link, contest@knittingboard.com

Some ideas for video…How-to knit? Kids knitting on Zippy? Use of innovative material on Zippy. How many Zippys can you knit with? Do your pets like Zippy? Don’t have a Zippy, that’s OK too, make a video on what you would make if you had a Zippy.  These are a few ideas. Have fun with Zippy and enter as many times as you like.

Each person who enters receives a prize! AND 3 placing prize winners will be chosen, and videos shared on blog and social media.

Videos will be judged on number of views and content! Contest ends April 15th.

Grand Prize: $300.00!LH9A7199c
Runner Up Prize: Loom and accessory package worth $100.00
Honorable Mention: Loom of your choice

What’s on your Zippy Loom??

4 Comments

  • I cannot find the info for the BUY 2 ZIPPY”S&GET 1 FREE Offer that is mentioned in the header on the Home page. I am interested in checking the offer out, please. Thanks.
    The Zippy is super cool, I have been making scarfs with the ruffle yarn, using just one. Made a neckwarmer in a short time today.

  • Hi Bonnie,

    When you put 2 Zippys in your cart the 3rd will pop in there. No coupon needed.
    Kim

  • Can I purchase zippy corner and 1 loom and get another loom for free or does it have to be 2 looms and get a third free.

  • Hi Ginny, This special is pretty much set and the bonus loom is automatic; it does require 2 zippy loom to be purchased. If you purchase 2 looms and 1 set of corners, it will automatically send you a free loom. Make the extra loom a gift or save it for another time. Thank you.

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Feb 29, 2016

Double Knit 101 Tutorial

Introduction to Double Knit – Part I

knittingboard28_newbluesmThe hobby of knitting, at one time, was simple. You would pick out a yarn; it was most likely a worsted weight in assorted colors. With just 2 needles and some guidelines, you could be making a scarf. Then the yarn selection began to grow and over the years, we saw all the new fibers and combinations that were being offered. It was no longer just a Worsted World. The huge, biggie yarns are really trending now, and a lot of fun. We also have boucle and eyelash, sock and glitter. Just look at all the great color combinations on the store shelves. Then, there’s all the different size needles and the circular needles and accessories like stitch holders, markers, gauge guides, darning needles, gauge counters, double ended, ring markers, blocking wires, row counters, as well as all the different sizes of each one.

Then, we add knitting looms in all shapes and sizes with double knit and single knit, and knit in the round, and knit panels, long circular, adjustable, rake, sock, and on and on. It’s no wonder a person gets confused when they say to a friend, “I want to learn to knit, but I have never been able to figure it all out.”
As we go along and time passes, we keep seeing more new gadgets, and helpful tools. We ask a question and get an earful of knitting terms, complex explanations, and a helpful person saying, “its so easy and quick, anyone can learn to knit.” So you decide to buy a book, and find that there are over 350+ book titles with the same promise, “its so easy to learn this way.” So, you go to the internet and start reading, and joining groups and blogs and picking out patterns that you like, and save them. Then, there’s those terms again and the abbreviations, and the charts, and the gauges, and the various cast ons, bind offs, skip this and skip that, and finally you decide its just too confusing.

So after all the time and money spent, you want to come out with something, so you knit a scarf. You don’t like it- so you give it away, and feel good about yourself. You put the ‘stuff’ away, until later, when you may decide to try it again.

Has anyone been down this road before? Maybe 10 years ago, or, maybe just recently? I guess it’s like anything else you enjoy-it becomes a hobby for you, and your favorite pastime. It relaxes you, and you continue learning from all the media, knit friends, and personal experience. But for those just starting out, we are going to attempt to take some of the confusion out of just one form of knitting– double knitting on a loom! We are going to start from scratch, so that ‘anyone can learn to do double knit’. See, I said it too! So, let’s breakdown all the terms and uncertainty as we go. I’m Pat Novak and have been doing double knit on a loom for 15 years after designing and knitting with 2 needles for 5 years. But, its so amazing how much has emerged; I get confused with all the new and wonderful things and ideas I see coming out of other knitters. There are amazing designers out there. It’s sure a hobby that you never outgrow, or ever run out of new ideas and designs to learn. So, hopefully, once you get the basics, you will enjoy the journey of a continuing loom knitting education, from all sources. We want to offer these articles with the basic info, the ground roots, to get you started out, with lots of success.

What is double knit?

You hear the term when looking at fabric, or in clothing-it is called double knit jersey. It means that the fabric is woven with 2 layers of thread, which makes it stretchy and durable. It’s the same in knitwear that is double knit; you create a fabric with 2 layers of yarn that is woven together. Remember that-it’s woven together, or interlocked. It can be bulky and thick, or thin and lacey. Being interlocked is different from a knitted circular tube. This is why you do not get a knit side and a purl side to your knitting. The result is the same knit side on both back and front creating a reversible fabric. So, for the afghan or scarf, it can flip around and have the same look on both sides.  This is especially beneficial when you add colorwork to the knit.  This will come later.

Getting started doing your double knit, will require a loom with 2 rows of needles or pegs across from each other. The pegs are usually placed directly across from the other row. So, you need 2 rails that are connected at the ends. The spacing between the rails, is determined by some type of spacer, holding them in place. The amount of space between the rails determines the size of the stitches created. For example, we are showing the KB 10” knitting board. It has 2 rails, each with 24 pegs that are placed directly across from each other. The little block of wood between them is set at 1cm – 3cm apart. They are held together with long bolts and wing nuts. Each stitch in double knit requires both pegs, one on each rail. So this loom or knitting board has 24 double stitches. By weaving the yarn back and forth across both rails, the resulting knit will be interlocked, or one single double knit fabric.

 

Now, you are probably wondering what the fabric will look like in double knit-will it be too thick if it is double? Good question!

This all depends on the yarn chosen and the gauge of the knitting. Yarn can be used from very fine to bulky. We will show you the difference with #3 (DK) yarn (just a little thinner than worsted weight) vs #6 (Bulky/thick) yarn, and also the 2cm spacing.

But we also want to look at the comparison with different spacing between the 2 rows of pegs. This measurement between the peg rails will change the size of the stitch. With larger stitches, the knitted width can also change.  For illustration, we will use the rail spacing of 1cm apart compared to 3cm apart.  Then we’ll be looking at very thin yarn with 2cm spacing.

 

 

CM1-Yarn 3 best

Here is a sample of working with 1cm spacing.  This means there is 7/8″ between the pegs from one row to the pegs on other row. The yarn is #3 DK weight and the gauge of knitting is 4 stitches in one inch of knitting.  You can see the rows on the ruler.

For a piece of knitting 4″ wide, you would cast on 16 stitches.

This is a nice tight, smooth knit great for most items.

Yarn shown is Paton’s Classic Wool, DK Superwash, all wool.


3CM-yarn 3best

This sample was knit with same #3 DK yarn, but with the spacing of 3cm or 1-9/16″ from peg to peg.  So the only difference in this and the previous one is the size of the stitches.  The blue needle is marking the first stitch so you can see that there are only 2.5 stitches for each inch of knit. 

So, to get the same 4″ of knitting, you would cast on just 10 stitches.  If you worked with 16 stitches, you would get a wider piece of knit.  You can also see in this sample that the stitches are much looser so it will create a more open weave; it is not solid, as you can see the white background behind the loops.

This setting makes really soft, loose knit scarves and shawls.

cm3.yarn6 (2)

 

 

 

Now, let’s look at the difference with the same setting of 3cm on the loom, but use a #6 bulky yarn.  The openness closes up and the knit is solid and bulky.  Great when you want to achieve that chunky look and the extra warmth.  As you can see, there are only 2 stitches for each inch.  If you still wanted a 4″ scarf, you would only need to cast on 8 stitches.

This thick, bulky knit is really trending now in scarves and hats and warm afghans.  Knitting at this gauge goes really quickly also.

This yarn is Loops and Threads, Cozy Wool, acrylic & wool

 

 

 

 

 

 

What if you want to do a lacy, open weave scarf, but you like the concept of doing it in double knit?  Can that be achieved with a knitting board?  Just look at these samples…is this what you were thinking about?  Again, this is using the more open spacing of 2cm, which is 1.25 inches from peg to peg, but choosing to work with a very fine #1 yarn, and #2.   You can achieve a very lacy look with ‘fluffy’ yarns as well in #1 and 2 weight yarns.

This yarn is Lion Brand, Sock-Ease in wool/nylon, #1.          Here is same setting of 2cm with #2 sock yarn.

cm2.yarn1 cm2.yarn2-3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, we can see that there are many looks to achieve with double knit, just as there are in single knit, and knitting with needles.  This is why most patterns, that may seem intimidating at first, will always give you 4 ingredients:  one is how the project will look when completed, two is the loom that was used and how it was set up, three is the yarn that was used, and forth is the gauge that was achieved, or, how many stitches = one inch of knitting.  Next month, we will look at the some of the ways to cast on the loom, bind off, and some basic stitches.  We will explore some little tips for getting going with the great hobby of double knitting on a knitting board loom.  We’ll also look at a simple pattern using those techniques.

12 Comments

  • Great article Pat. Really explains the difference in spacing and use of yarn in spacing. Although I double knit all the time, I can always learn new things. Thanks for sharing with everyone. Can’t wait to see the next one.

  • I’ve tried double knitting once (with the aid of a video), but your tutorial definitely helped me understand it a bit better. Also I hate doing gauge, but I think that was because I didn’t know how to do it properly. I can’t wait for the next tutorial as I’d like to learn more about double knitting! :)

  • Thanks Sue.

  • Hi Colleen, doing a swatch for checking gauge is always boring, but saves so much ‘error’ in the overall project.

  • Yeah so true. I think I will attempt a gauge swatch next project, your article made it seem pretty simple to find gauge for double knitting :) Thanks!

  • I’m so glad you’re talking about double knitting! Aside from your website, it’s very hard to find good information that isn’t confusing.

    I hope you consider at some point doing more with cables in double knit. Cables are so popular right now, but with the exception of your basic cables video, there is very little information for double knitting.

  • Thank you Pat for this great tutorial. I like how double knitting looks and want to learn more. It’s great that you started from the basics and I’ll follow this topic for sure. I know that these are more advanced topics, but I would love to learn about color work and brioche using the knitting boards. Is there a possibility in the future?

  • Hi Jen, We want to go thru all the bare basics and then keep going to cover the more advanced stitches and cables, as well as color work. We’ll have fun with it. Pat

  • Hi Claudia, We can cover it all slowly. And anyone can jump in with other ideas also. Pat

  • Hi, Pat,
    Just found your 101 double knitting entry. I have been working on loom knitting technique for about four years. I have learned a lot from this site on both single and double knitting. Thanks for the comparative presentation of the various settings.

    The biggest challenge for me is to incorporate increases and decreases to achieve shapes and textures. I try to transcribe Barbara Walker’s recipes into loom knitting.

    May this craft and its practitioners live long and prosper.
    Rani

  • Beautifully informative. I am looking forward to future postings. Thank you.

  • Hi Pat,
    Thanks for doing this! This is my favorite topic in loom knitting. It’s hard to find many patterns and information for double knitting on the loom.I am wondering if there might be a double knit loom-along in the future?
    Thanks again and I am eagerly looking forward to the next installment!
    Dale

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Feb 19, 2016

Woodlands Throw (Double Knit)

Blanket_WoodlandsDesign by Jacque Darragh

See beautiful soft stripes emerge from the one yarn. Stitch pattern creates lots of texture.

Loom:  28” Knitting Board + peg extenders for double knit set at 2cm spacing.

Yarn:  Lion Brand Scarfie, 4 skeins.  Cream/Taupe. 312 yds. per skein.  Bulky weight. Hand wash and dry flat.

Stitches:  Rib, Stockinette, and Honeycomb pattern

Finished Sizes:  34 x 44 inches

Notions Needed:  Knit hook and crochet hook

Gauge:  2 sts X 3 rows=1 inch

 

 

 

 

Continue reading »

5 Comments

  • Beautiful! Two questions, what is the spacing between rows and is there a graphic of the peg wrap?

  • Hi Melissa, the boards are at mid spacing or 2cm apart. You can look at the pictorial instructions on knitting board website. If you go to the Criss cross stitch under Double Knit, the weaving is the same, but this design works 2 rows of each stitch pattern. So the whole Honeycomb pattern is a total of 4 rows.

  • Thank you!

  • I love these! So beautiful. I a newbie, but learning fast. Do you have a pattern for the hat?

  • The hat pattern was written by designer and will be posted soon.

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Feb 15, 2016

Loom FAQs: How Are Hat Brims Made?

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Hats are one of the first things people learn when learning to loom knit.  But the questions abound.  How do I made a brim?  How do I keep it from rolling up?  How many ways are there to make brims?

Glad you asked!  There are various ways to make brims on hats depending on what kind of look you are wanting.

Rolled Brim

Curly_cute_hat_medium

 

These are fun brims and makes an easy hat since all knit will roll up naturally.

How to work the rolled brim:

Cast on and knit all the rows after the cast on for approximately 3 inches.  It doesn’t matter which version of the knit stitch you use or the type of cast on you use.  All knits will curl.

Continue working the hat in whatever stitch pattern you wish and let the brim roll up on it’s own.

 

 

 

No Brim

cabled_hatscarf__80054.1419468139.1280.1280

 

These hats are worked in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl.  The entire hat is worked in the same stitch pattern for the entire length so that there isn’t a brim at the bottom.

How to work the no brim:

Cast on and work the entire hat in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl like ribbing, garter stitch, basket weave, seed stitch, moss stitch, etc.

 

 

 

Turned Up Brim

cable_hat turned up brim

 

Hats with turned up brims are just worked longer than the desired length so that the bottom may be turned up for the brim.  Rib stitch is common for these types of brims.

How to work a turned up brim:

Cast on and work the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired for twice the length of the brim.

Continue working the remainder of the hat in whatever other stitch desired.

 

 

 

Folded Brim

paving stones

 

This is usually the first type of brim most loom knitters learn since it can be worked with all knit such as e-wrap and won’t curl.  This brim is double the thickness of the fabric since the work is folded up and attached to the rest of the hat as you go.

How to work the folded brim:

All knits or any stitch pattern can be used.  Use the e-wrap cast on and work until the length is twice that desired for the brim.

Bring the cast on edge back up and place on the pegs so that the brim is folded up on the inside of the loom.  There will be 2 loops on each peg.

Knit the bottom loop over the top loop and continue working the remainder of the hat.

Ribbed/Garter/Other Stitch Pattern Brims

TweedCableBeanie Rib Brim

 

These brims are just worked in whichever stitch pattern desired that is different from the rest of the hat.

While rib and garter are the most common stitch patterns to use for brims, any stitch pattern that doesn’t curl may be used.

How to work a stitch pattern brim:

Cast on and work the desired length of the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired.

Then continue with the remainder of the hat in another stitch pattern.

 

 

 

Brims can be just as varied as types of hats.  A different brim will change the look of a hat as well.  Each person prefers something different which is what makes life so varied and interesting.

Here’s to all the brims and variations that make our lives complete!  Happy loom knitting!

6 Comments

  • Great article. As always I learn some thing very useful and explained very well

  • how do you get lattice look like on the rainbow hat with black ? or ive seen some with hearts and different designs

  • Katie Leeck, if you click on the picture, it will take you to the free pattern.

  • thanks Renita

  • I was just coming to this site to ask this very question! How would I do a brim in a different size than the hat itself? Using the A.I.O loom, and let’s say the brim in a 60 peg, but the hat itself in an 80 peg. Would I just add a M 1 on each round 5 pegs each side of the short side?

  • This is a very great concise article. Thank you for writing it. I always look forward to your articles. Hats were always frustrating for me. Things were looking awesome and after all that work it would eventually start to curl. I finally conquered it and I have made many cute hats for my grandkids. Easter is just around the corner. Maybe I’ll make the hats out of cotton.

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Feb 12, 2016

Crayon Box Throw (double knit)

Design by Jacquelyn Darragh

Work with the Ribbing stitch in this fun, colorful throw. The bright colors and bold stripes make this a simple knit favorite and with the double knit, double the warmth!

throw_crayon_box

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight, 100% Acrylic, 355 yards per skein. Machine washable and dryable Colors: Grape, 2 skeins. Pink, Tropical Pink, Yellow, Peacock Blue, 1 skein each. Neon Green, I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight , 255 yards per skein. 1 skein

Stitches: Rib Stitch and Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 5 stitches X 6 rows = 2 inches

 Size: 28 x 34 inches

Instructionscrayonbox_blanket2

Use two strands of yarn as one, throughout the making of this throw. When you are knitting a solid color, for example, grape rib stitch, just use both ends of the skein of yarn, pulling one strand from the center and one strand from the outside. When using two different colors together, it will be much easier if you use one strand of each pulling from the center of the skein, which will keep them from tangling.

With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. Always tie on new color at 2nd stitch so that knots do not show from outer edge.

Cast on: 64 stitches in Stockinette stitch with Grape yarn. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Note: Complete throw is worked in Rib Stitch until you come to the bind off row.

Rib Stitch: After the cast on, start first row by wrapping the top 1st peg and bring down to the bottom 3rd peg. You are skipping peg 1 and 2 on lower board. Your yarn is at an angle. Now go back up to top board to 3rd peg and wrap. Take yarn down to lower 5th peg. Continue wrapping every other peg at this angle till you get to the end of your stitches. To return, take yarn around end of pegs to wrap the top last peg. Continue by wrapping all the empty pegs. You will see that you are going back with peg 1 to 3 again and working at the opposite angle. This is what creates the ribs. It is correct that the last pegs are wrapped consecutively. Hook over all pegs. Repeat for each row according to color design.

Knit 5 rows Grape yarn. Tie on Lime yarn. Do not cut the Grape, but carry it in along with Lime yarn.

Knit 1 row in Lime. Cut Lime and knot.

Knit 3 rows Grape. Tie in Lime yarn. Cut grape and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut the one strand of yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Blue yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime in rib. Cut and tie off the Lime yarn. Tie on the other end of the Blue yarn so that you now have both strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Cut the blue yarn and tie off. Tie on Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on the Grape yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on two strands of the Pink yarn.

Knit 4 rows in Pink.   Cut one strand of Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Tropical Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink rib. Cut and tie off the Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Tropical Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut both strands of yarn and tie off. Tie on 2 strands of Grape yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Lime.

Knit 5 rows of Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut one strand of Tropical Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein, and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off the Tropical Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Pink.

Knit 4 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on the Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on two strands of the Blue yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut one strand of blue yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Lime yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime. Cut and tie off the Blue yarn. Tie on the other end of the Lime yarn, so that you now have both strands of Lime.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 3 rows in Grape. Do not cut grape yarn but let it carry through. Tie on 2 strands of Lime and knit one row of Lime. Cut and tie off Lime yarn.

Knit 5 rows in Grape.

Knit 1 row in Grape Stockinette stitch.

Bind off the board remembering that you are still treating 2 strands as one, so each side of the board in which you are doing the crochet bind off, will have two loops. Weave in ends.

Bind off the anchor yarn treating 2 strands as one. Lift two loops over two loops. Weave in ends.

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Feb 8, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Cotton Love

Design by Jenny Stark

Love is in the air this month and hearts in all colors, shapes, and mediums abound.  Get ‘cotton love’ with these adorable double-knit cotton hearts.  Because they work up so quickly, you’ll have time to make one for all of the sweethearts in your life.

hearts_jenny

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: 100 % cotton yarn in worsted weight.  Peaches & Crème and Sugar n Cream cotton yarns were used in the samples.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors.

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: Approximately 5.5” x 5.75”

Abbreviations:

DZ st – Duplicate Zigzag Stitch

l – left

r – right

 

Techniques2016-02-10 14.06.49

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3386

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3387

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

 

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

*This project is double knit.  This means that the project will be worked back and forth, using the upper and lower board of the loom.  Lower board = the rail and pegs closest to you.  Upper board = the rail and pegs farther from you.  The board will not be rotated, so the lower board and the upper board will not change.  For this project, disregard the 2 pegs at each end of the knitting loom.  They are not included in the peg counts for this design.  So, peg one of the lower board would be the first peg on the left hand side of the rail closest to you.

*Work with 2 strands of yarn held together as one throughout this project.

 

Cast On

Make a slip knot and place it on the 7th peg of the lower board.

Wrap the 8th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

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Wrap the 8th peg on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

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Wrap the 9th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3375

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Cast on is now complete.

Bottom of the Heart

Increase #1:

Wrap peg 7 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3379

Wrap peg 6 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3380

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #2:

Wrap peg 9 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3382

Wrap peg 10 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3383

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #3:

Wrap peg 6 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 5 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #4:

Wrap peg 10 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 11 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #5:

Wrap peg 5 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 4 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #6:

Wrap peg 11 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 12 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #7:

Wrap peg 4 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 3 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #8:

Wrap peg 12 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 13 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #9:

Wrap peg 3 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 2 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #10:

Wrap peg 13 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 14 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase # 11:

Wrap peg 2 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 1 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

 

Left Curve

Move the stitch from peg 7 on the lower board to peg 6 on the lower board.

IMG_3388

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 6 of the lower board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board to peg 2 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the upper board to peg 3 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the lower board to peg 3 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the upper board to peg 4 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the lower board to peg 4 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the upper board to peg 5 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the lower board to peg 5 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the upper board to peg 6 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the lower board to peg 6 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the upper board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 6 of the lower board and peg 7 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the lower board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 7 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 7 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The left curve is now bound off.

Right Curve

Move the stitch from peg 8 on the upper board to peg 9 on the upper board.

Working with 2 strands held together as one, reattach the yarn at the right hand side of the loom, beginning at peg 13 of the lower board.

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 9 of the upper board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the lower board to peg 12 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 14 of the upper board to peg 13 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the lower board to peg 11 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the upper board to peg 12 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the lower board to peg 10 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the upper board to peg 11 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the lower board to peg 9 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the upper board to peg 10 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 9 of the lower board to peg 8 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the upper board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 8 of the lower board and peg 9 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 8 of the lower board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 9 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 9 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The right curve is now bound off.

Weave in all yarn ends.

So quick, so fun, make a ton of cotton loves!

Happy

Heart

Day!

 

2 Comments

  • What a darling idea, Jenny! I’m lovin ‘it! I l really love your use of double knit for a wash cloth…I bet it has wonderful squish! :D

  • This is really hard to figure out without some short tutorials. ?

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Feb 5, 2016

‘Back to Basics’ Blanket (double knit)

A GREAT PATTERN FOR BEGINNERS!!  …an introduction to double knit. No matter how fierce the winter gets, this lovely throw will keep you warm and cozy. Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

blanket_gradient2

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool. 137 yards per skein. Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry. Colors: Camel Heather (Camel), 3 skeins, White, 3 skeins, and Fjord Heather (Blue), 2 skeins

Stitches: Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 2 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Size: 34 x 50 inches

change_color1

 

Basic Notes: With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. All stitches are Stockinette. Check out chart below.

To keep side edges even and smooth, tie on your new yarns at 2nd stitch between the rows of pegs. This will keep the knots away from the edge and hidden from the finished throw. When cutting each yarn, leave a yarn tail approximately 3” that will lay flat between the 2 rows of pegs.

Cast on row will be the same as one row of stockinette stitch. You start on Left side of loom on top peg #1 with a slip knot; bring yarn down to peg #2 on lower board. Wrap yarn around, and continue back up to peg # 3 on top board. Continue weaving the yarn around every other peg, alternating from one board to the other, to end. Wrap around the end at last peg. Return back to beginning by wrapping all the pegs that were skipped on first pass. Now all the pegs for this project will be wrapped.

Lay a piece of yarn across the stitches with the yarn ends dangling at each end of loom. This is referred to as the anchor yarn or waste yarn. It is usually removed after the knitting is complete. Now, wrap all the pegs again just as before so that you have 2 loops on each peg. You are ready to hook over using the knit hook. This means to lift the bottom loop, on each peg over the top loop, and into the center of the loom. Do this to all pegs, so that they have only one wrap of yarn. Your stitches are now cast on and you are ready to work in stockinette stitch.

The stockinette stitch produces a smooth knit, and is usually the first stitch learned in double knitting. It is the same process as casting on. Once you wrap all pegs again, hook over. This completes one row of stockinette stitch. Continue this stitch with the color changes for the entire afghan.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 64 stitches with Camel yarn in Stockinette stitch. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Knit 7 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 7 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 8 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 2 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 8 rows in Camel.

Bind Off your stitches with a loose crochet bind off.

Bind Off at anchor yarn with loose crochet bind off.

Now that the blanket is complete, finish off with this method. Place blanket in pot or sink with hot water for 4 minutes. Allow yarn to fully soak up all the water. Remove from sink and gently roll in a full size towel or two to absorb as much of the water as possible. Place in your dryer for five minutes on medium heat to fluff and soften the wool. Block to specified size and allow to air dry until fully dry. Enjoy your lovely throw!

backtobasics_chart

 

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