Zig Zag Eyelet Rib
I’ve been pleased as punch with the way this month’s stitch turned out…so pretty and delicate. The best part is that it is so very easy to accomplish, with only four rows to repeat…nice! This stitch is also in the ribbing family, which makes it extremely elastic if you find yourself in need of a lacy design for a hat, socks, or a banded trim. The body of a sweater worked this way would be absolutely breathtaking! :) But for now, let’s learn this pretty design while whipping up an afghan square…
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage aquae)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.
There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:
[yo, k2tog]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg, and the k2tog peg. Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the k2tog peg.
[ssk, yo]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the ssk peg and the empty yo peg. Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the ssk peg.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Row 1: p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2.
Row 2: k2, p1, k2, p1.
Row 3: p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2.
Row 4: k2, p1, k2, p1.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 36 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p36.
Row 2: k36.
Row 3: p36.
Main Pattern Rows
Row 4: k4, *p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 5: p2, k2, *p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 6: k4, *p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 7: Repeat Row 5.
Rows 8-59: Repeat Rows 4-7.
Row 60: k2, p32, k2.
Row 61: p2, k32, p2.
Row 62: k2, p32, k2.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)
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Look and feel as sweet as a peppermint while wearing this fun beret. Cashmere blend yarn gives you something extra special. The top is worked in short rows as a flat panel then placed back on the loom and worked in a connected flat panel to decrease the sides. A challenge that is worth the effort to create a sweet hat that will be the envy of everyone who sees it.
Yarn: 200 yards cashmere blend worsted weight yarn. Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in crimson (300054) and white (300025) was used in sample, 1 ball each color.
Notions: Knit hook, G/4.00mm crochet hook, tapestry needle
Gauge: 24 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
CA – Color A – Crimson
CB – Color B – White
After each decrease row, move stitches inward and adjust the loom.
Cast on from left to right, working odd rows from right to left and even rows from left to right.
Keep final bind off very loose so the hat will not be too tight around the forehead. Do not use e-wrap knit stitch.
W&T: Wrap and turn
CO: Cast on
BO: Bind off
With CA, chain cast on 19 pegs.
Row 1: S1, K18
Row 2: S1, P17, K1
Row 3: S1, K16, W&T
Row 4: P16, K1
Row 5: S1, K14, W&T
Row 6: P14, K1
Row 7: S1, K12, W&T
Row 8: P12, K1
Row 9: S1, K10, W&T
Row 10: P10, K1
Row 11: S1, K8, W&T
Row 12: P8, K1
Row 13: S1, K6, W&T
Row 14: P6, K1
Row 15: S1, K4, W&T
Row 16: P4, K1
Row 17: S1, K2, W&T
Row 18: P2, K1
Row 19: S1, W&T
Cut CA. Add CB.
Rows 20 – 38: repeat rows 1 – 19
Cut CB. Add CA.
Repeat rows 1 – 38, 5 times.
After 12th wedge is complete, bind off.
After binding off, sew long edges with mattress stitch.
Prepare 12 bobbins, 6 of CA and 6 of CB, by winding 6 yards of yarn on a 3.5” x 1” piece of cardboard or a sponge roller.
Set loom to 106 pegs. Place pinwheel over loom with wrong side facing up. *Working from right to left, starting with the first stitch of a CA wedge, decrease by placing 2 edge stitches together on the first peg. Then place the next 7 edge stitches on the next 7 pegs. Then place each edge stitch on the pegs until 6 wedge edge stitches are on the loom. * Half the loom should have stitches. Then repeat from * to * until all pegs have edge stitches on them. The 1st and 7th CA sections should have 8 stitches while the remaining sections have 9 stitches.
The band of the beret will be worked as a connected flat panel. Work in rows, not rounds. Work knit rows from right to left. Work purl rows from left to right. After each decreasing row, move stitches in and adjust loom to the number of stitches. Starting with row 3, every odd numbered row will start 1 stitch to the left by slipping the 1st stitch and ending the row on the slipped stitch causing the colors to move over by 1 stitch every other row.
Row 1: Add 1st CA bobbin – K8, add 1st CB bobbin – K9, add 2nd CA bobbin – K9, add 2nd CB bobbin – K9, add 3rd CA bobbin – K9, add 3rd CB bobbin – K9, add 4th CA bobbin – K8, add 4th CB bobbin – K9, add 5th CA bobbin – K9, add 5th CB – K9, add 6th CA bobbin – K9, add 6th CB bobbin – K9 (106 sts rem)
Note: Starting with row 2, twist the 2 strands together when you finish with one color and go to the next to connect them together.
Row 2: With CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P8, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P8
Row 3: S1, *with CA – K8, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6, with CA – K1, K2tog, K6, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6, with CA – K1, K2tog, K6, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6*, rep from * to * once (96 sts rem)
Row 4: *CB – P8, with CA – P8*, repeat from * to * 5 times
Row 5: S1, *with CA – K1, K2tog, K5, with CB – K1, K2tog, K5*, rep from * to * 5 times (84 sts rem)
Row 6: *CB – P7, with CA – P7*, repeat from * to * 5 times
Row 7: S1, *with CA – K1, K2tog, K4, with CB – K1, K2tog, K4*, rep from * to * 5 times (72 sts rem)
Row 8: *CB – P6, with CA – P6*, repeat from * to * 5 times
Row 9: S1, *with CA – K6, with CB – K6*, rep from * to * 5 times
Row 10: *with CA – P6, with CB – P6*, rep from * to * 5 times
Rows 11 – 18: rep rows 9 and 10, 4 times
Using Basic BO, *BO 6 stitches with CA, cut CA leaving enough to weave in, twist CA with next CB, BO 6 stitches with CB, cut CB leaving enough to weave in, twist CB with next CA*, rep from * to * 5 times to the end. Pull last strand through last stitch. With tapestry needle, join the last stitch to the first and sew close the first and last stitches where there are holes.
Weave in ends.