Do you have great zippy ideas? What have you made on your zippy looms? Make a video of your creative idea and enter to win prizes!!
Entering is as simple as using the Zippy! We are looking for creativity and originality on fun ways to use the zippy loom.
3 Simple Steps…
1. Take a video using Zippy loom
2. Post on youtube, and put in subject “zippy video contest”
3. Send us a link, email@example.com
Some ideas for video…How-to knit? Kids knitting on Zippy? Use of innovative material on Zippy. How many Zippys can you knit with? Do your pets like Zippy? Don’t have a Zippy, that’s OK too, make a video on what you would make if you had a Zippy. These are a few ideas. Have fun with Zippy and enter as many times as you like.
Each person who enters receives a prize! AND 3 placing prize winners will be chosen, and videos shared on blog and social media.
Videos will be judged on number of views and content! Contest ends April 15th.
Grand Prize: $300.00!
Runner Up Prize: Loom and accessory package worth $100.00
Honorable Mention: Loom of your choice
What’s on your Zippy Loom??
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Introduction to Double Knit – Part I
The hobby of knitting, at one time, was simple. You would pick out a yarn; it was most likely a worsted weight in assorted colors. With just 2 needles and some guidelines, you could be making a scarf. Then the yarn selection began to grow and over the years, we saw all the new fibers and combinations that were being offered. It was no longer just a Worsted World. The huge, biggie yarns are really trending now, and a lot of fun. We also have boucle and eyelash, sock and glitter. Just look at all the great color combinations on the store shelves. Then, there’s all the different size needles and the circular needles and accessories like stitch holders, markers, gauge guides, darning needles, gauge counters, double ended, ring markers, blocking wires, row counters, as well as all the different sizes of each one.
Then, we add knitting looms in all shapes and sizes with double knit and single knit, and knit in the round, and knit panels, long circular, adjustable, rake, sock, and on and on. It’s no wonder a person gets confused when they say to a friend, “I want to learn to knit, but I have never been able to figure it all out.”
As we go along and time passes, we keep seeing more new gadgets, and helpful tools. We ask a question and get an earful of knitting terms, complex explanations, and a helpful person saying, “its so easy and quick, anyone can learn to knit.” So you decide to buy a book, and find that there are over 350+ book titles with the same promise, “its so easy to learn this way.” So, you go to the internet and start reading, and joining groups and blogs and picking out patterns that you like, and save them. Then, there’s those terms again and the abbreviations, and the charts, and the gauges, and the various cast ons, bind offs, skip this and skip that, and finally you decide its just too confusing.
So after all the time and money spent, you want to come out with something, so you knit a scarf. You don’t like it- so you give it away, and feel good about yourself. You put the ‘stuff’ away, until later, when you may decide to try it again.
Has anyone been down this road before? Maybe 10 years ago, or, maybe just recently? I guess it’s like anything else you enjoy-it becomes a hobby for you, and your favorite pastime. It relaxes you, and you continue learning from all the media, knit friends, and personal experience. But for those just starting out, we are going to attempt to take some of the confusion out of just one form of knitting– double knitting on a loom! We are going to start from scratch, so that ‘anyone can learn to do double knit’. See, I said it too! So, let’s breakdown all the terms and uncertainty as we go. I’m Pat Novak and have been doing double knit on a loom for 15 years after designing and knitting with 2 needles for 5 years. But, its so amazing how much has emerged; I get confused with all the new and wonderful things and ideas I see coming out of other knitters. There are amazing designers out there. It’s sure a hobby that you never outgrow, or ever run out of new ideas and designs to learn. So, hopefully, once you get the basics, you will enjoy the journey of a continuing loom knitting education, from all sources. We want to offer these articles with the basic info, the ground roots, to get you started out, with lots of success.
What is double knit?
You hear the term when looking at fabric, or in clothing-it is called double knit jersey. It means that the fabric is woven with 2 layers of thread, which makes it stretchy and durable. It’s the same in knitwear that is double knit; you create a fabric with 2 layers of yarn that is woven together. Remember that-it’s woven together, or interlocked. It can be bulky and thick, or thin and lacey. Being interlocked is different from a knitted circular tube. This is why you do not get a knit side and a purl side to your knitting. The result is the same knit side on both back and front creating a reversible fabric. So, for the afghan or scarf, it can flip around and have the same look on both sides. This is especially beneficial when you add colorwork to the knit. This will come later.
Getting started doing your double knit, will require a loom with 2 rows of needles or pegs across from each other. The pegs are usually placed directly across from the other row. So, you need 2 rails that are connected at the ends. The spacing between the rails, is determined by some type of spacer, holding them in place. The amount of space between the rails determines the size of the stitches created. For example, we are showing the KB 10” knitting board. It has 2 rails, each with 24 pegs that are placed directly across from each other. The little block of wood between them is set at 1cm – 3cm apart. They are held together with long bolts and wing nuts. Each stitch in double knit requires both pegs, one on each rail. So this loom or knitting board has 24 double stitches. By weaving the yarn back and forth across both rails, the resulting knit will be interlocked, or one single double knit fabric.
Now, you are probably wondering what the fabric will look like in double knit-will it be too thick if it is double? Good question!
This all depends on the yarn chosen and the gauge of the knitting. Yarn can be used from very fine to bulky. We will show you the difference with #3 (DK) yarn (just a little thinner than worsted weight) vs #6 (Bulky/thick) yarn, and also the 2cm spacing.
But we also want to look at the comparison with different spacing between the 2 rows of pegs. This measurement between the peg rails will change the size of the stitch. With larger stitches, the knitted width can also change. For illustration, we will use the rail spacing of 1cm apart compared to 3cm apart. Then we’ll be looking at very thin yarn with 2cm spacing.
Here is a sample of working with 1cm spacing. This means there is 7/8″ between the pegs from one row to the pegs on other row. The yarn is #3 DK weight and the gauge of knitting is 4 stitches in one inch of knitting. You can see the rows on the ruler.
For a piece of knitting 4″ wide, you would cast on 16 stitches.
This is a nice tight, smooth knit great for most items.
Yarn shown is Paton’s Classic Wool, DK Superwash, all wool.
This sample was knit with same #3 DK yarn, but with the spacing of 3cm or 1-9/16″ from peg to peg. So the only difference in this and the previous one is the size of the stitches. The blue needle is marking the first stitch so you can see that there are only 2.5 stitches for each inch of knit.
So, to get the same 4″ of knitting, you would cast on just 10 stitches. If you worked with 16 stitches, you would get a wider piece of knit. You can also see in this sample that the stitches are much looser so it will create a more open weave; it is not solid, as you can see the white background behind the loops.
This setting makes really soft, loose knit scarves and shawls.
Now, let’s look at the difference with the same setting of 3cm on the loom, but use a #6 bulky yarn. The openness closes up and the knit is solid and bulky. Great when you want to achieve that chunky look and the extra warmth. As you can see, there are only 2 stitches for each inch. If you still wanted a 4″ scarf, you would only need to cast on 8 stitches.
This thick, bulky knit is really trending now in scarves and hats and warm afghans. Knitting at this gauge goes really quickly also.
This yarn is Loops and Threads, Cozy Wool, acrylic & wool
What if you want to do a lacy, open weave scarf, but you like the concept of doing it in double knit? Can that be achieved with a knitting board? Just look at these samples…is this what you were thinking about? Again, this is using the more open spacing of 2cm, which is 1.25 inches from peg to peg, but choosing to work with a very fine #1 yarn, and #2. You can achieve a very lacy look with ‘fluffy’ yarns as well in #1 and 2 weight yarns.
This yarn is Lion Brand, Sock-Ease in wool/nylon, #1. Here is same setting of 2cm with #2 sock yarn.
So, we can see that there are many looks to achieve with double knit, just as there are in single knit, and knitting with needles. This is why most patterns, that may seem intimidating at first, will always give you 4 ingredients: one is how the project will look when completed, two is the loom that was used and how it was set up, three is the yarn that was used, and forth is the gauge that was achieved, or, how many stitches = one inch of knitting. Next month, we will look at the some of the ways to cast on the loom, bind off, and some basic stitches. We will explore some little tips for getting going with the great hobby of double knitting on a knitting board loom. We’ll also look at a simple pattern using those techniques.
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Design by Jacque Darragh
See beautiful soft stripes emerge from the one yarn. Stitch pattern creates lots of texture.
Loom: 28” Knitting Board + peg extenders for double knit set at 2cm spacing.
Yarn: Lion Brand Scarfie, 4 skeins. Cream/Taupe. 312 yds. per skein. Bulky weight. Hand wash and dry flat.
Stitches: Rib, Stockinette, and Honeycomb pattern
Finished Sizes: 34 x 44 inches
Notions Needed: Knit hook and crochet hook
Gauge: 2 sts X 3 rows=1 inch
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Hats are one of the first things people learn when learning to loom knit. But the questions abound. How do I made a brim? How do I keep it from rolling up? How many ways are there to make brims?
Glad you asked! There are various ways to make brims on hats depending on what kind of look you are wanting.
These are fun brims and makes an easy hat since all knit will roll up naturally.
How to work the rolled brim:
Cast on and knit all the rows after the cast on for approximately 3 inches. It doesn’t matter which version of the knit stitch you use or the type of cast on you use. All knits will curl.
Continue working the hat in whatever stitch pattern you wish and let the brim roll up on it’s own.
These hats are worked in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl. The entire hat is worked in the same stitch pattern for the entire length so that there isn’t a brim at the bottom.
How to work the no brim:
Cast on and work the entire hat in a stitch pattern that doesn’t curl like ribbing, garter stitch, basket weave, seed stitch, moss stitch, etc.
Turned Up Brim
Hats with turned up brims are just worked longer than the desired length so that the bottom may be turned up for the brim. Rib stitch is common for these types of brims.
How to work a turned up brim:
Cast on and work the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired for twice the length of the brim.
Continue working the remainder of the hat in whatever other stitch desired.
This is usually the first type of brim most loom knitters learn since it can be worked with all knit such as e-wrap and won’t curl. This brim is double the thickness of the fabric since the work is folded up and attached to the rest of the hat as you go.
How to work the folded brim:
All knits or any stitch pattern can be used. Use the e-wrap cast on and work until the length is twice that desired for the brim.
Bring the cast on edge back up and place on the pegs so that the brim is folded up on the inside of the loom. There will be 2 loops on each peg.
Knit the bottom loop over the top loop and continue working the remainder of the hat.
Ribbed/Garter/Other Stitch Pattern Brims
These brims are just worked in whichever stitch pattern desired that is different from the rest of the hat.
While rib and garter are the most common stitch patterns to use for brims, any stitch pattern that doesn’t curl may be used.
How to work a stitch pattern brim:
Cast on and work the desired length of the brim in whichever stitch pattern desired.
Then continue with the remainder of the hat in another stitch pattern.
Brims can be just as varied as types of hats. A different brim will change the look of a hat as well. Each person prefers something different which is what makes life so varied and interesting.
Here’s to all the brims and variations that make our lives complete! Happy loom knitting!
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Design by Jacquelyn Darragh
Work with the Ribbing stitch in this fun, colorful throw. The bright colors and bold stripes make this a simple knit favorite and with the double knit, double the warmth!
Knitting Loom: 28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing
Yarn: Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight, 100% Acrylic, 355 yards per skein. Machine washable and dryable Colors: Grape, 2 skeins. Pink, Tropical Pink, Yellow, Peacock Blue, 1 skein each. Neon Green, I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight , 255 yards per skein. 1 skein
Stitches: Rib Stitch and Stockinette
Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook
Gauge: 5 stitches X 6 rows = 2 inches
Size: 28 x 34 inches
Use two strands of yarn as one, throughout the making of this throw. When you are knitting a solid color, for example, grape rib stitch, just use both ends of the skein of yarn, pulling one strand from the center and one strand from the outside. When using two different colors together, it will be much easier if you use one strand of each pulling from the center of the skein, which will keep them from tangling.
With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. Always tie on new color at 2nd stitch so that knots do not show from outer edge.
Cast on: 64 stitches in Stockinette stitch with Grape yarn. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.
Note: Complete throw is worked in Rib Stitch until you come to the bind off row.
Rib Stitch: After the cast on, start first row by wrapping the top 1st peg and bring down to the bottom 3rd peg. You are skipping peg 1 and 2 on lower board. Your yarn is at an angle. Now go back up to top board to 3rd peg and wrap. Take yarn down to lower 5th peg. Continue wrapping every other peg at this angle till you get to the end of your stitches. To return, take yarn around end of pegs to wrap the top last peg. Continue by wrapping all the empty pegs. You will see that you are going back with peg 1 to 3 again and working at the opposite angle. This is what creates the ribs. It is correct that the last pegs are wrapped consecutively. Hook over all pegs. Repeat for each row according to color design.
Knit 5 rows Grape yarn. Tie on Lime yarn. Do not cut the Grape, but carry it in along with Lime yarn.
Knit 1 row in Lime. Cut Lime and knot.
Knit 3 rows Grape. Tie in Lime yarn. Cut grape and knot.
Knit 3 rows in Lime. Cut the one strand of yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Blue yarn from the inside of the blue skein.
Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime in rib. Cut and tie off the Lime yarn. Tie on the other end of the Blue yarn so that you now have both strands of Blue.
Knit 5 rows in Blue. Cut the blue yarn and tie off. Tie on Yellow yarn.
Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on the Grape yarn.
Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on two strands of the Pink yarn.
Knit 4 rows in Pink. Cut one strand of Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Tropical Pink skein.
Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink rib. Cut and tie off the Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Tropical Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Tropical Pink.
Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut both strands of yarn and tie off. Tie on 2 strands of Grape yarn.
Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Pink.
Knit 5 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Blue.
Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.
Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Lime.
Knit 5 rows of Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.
Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.
Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut one strand of Tropical Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein, and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Pink skein.
Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off the Tropical Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Pink.
Knit 4 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.
Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on the Yellow yarn.
Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on two strands of the Blue yarn.
Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut one strand of blue yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Lime yarn from the inside of the blue skein.
Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime. Cut and tie off the Blue yarn. Tie on the other end of the Lime yarn, so that you now have both strands of Lime.
Knit 3 rows in Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.
Knit 3 rows in Grape. Do not cut grape yarn but let it carry through. Tie on 2 strands of Lime and knit one row of Lime. Cut and tie off Lime yarn.
Knit 5 rows in Grape.
Knit 1 row in Grape Stockinette stitch.
Bind off the board remembering that you are still treating 2 strands as one, so each side of the board in which you are doing the crochet bind off, will have two loops. Weave in ends.
Bind off the anchor yarn treating 2 strands as one. Lift two loops over two loops. Weave in ends.
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