All-n-One knitting loom, 80 (88, 96) pegs.
Yarn: Approx 140-164 yds of worsted weight of merino wool and Donegal tweed blend. City Tweed in Brocade was used in sample.
Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle.
Gauge: 11sts x 13 rows = 2 inches.
Size: Three sizes provided, due to the shrinkage in the fabric from the cables, a higher than normal number of pegs is required. Small (fits head circumference up to 19”), Medium (fits head circumference up to 20”), Large (fits a head circumference up to 21”).
k2tog=knit two stitches together
p2tog=purl two stitches together
c4f=Cable 4 stitches front
c4b=Cable 4 stitches back
c4f: Cable 4 Front (also known as 4-st LC)
Step 1: Take working yarn behind pegs 1 and 2 (you are skipping pegs 1 and 2).
Step 2: Knit pegs 3 and 4, transfer these stitches to cable needle.
Step 3: Take working yarn to the front of peg 1: knit pegs 1 and 2.
Step 4: Transfer the stitches as follows: stitch from peg 2 to peg 4, stitch from peg 1 to peg 3.
Step 5: Transfer the stitches from the cable needle and place them on pegs 1 and 2.
With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.
c4b: Cable 4 Back (also known as 4-st RC)
Step 1: Place stitches from pegs 1 and 2 onto cable needle and hold to the center of the loom.
Step 2: Bring yarn in front of peg 3, knit pegs 3 and 4.
Step 3: Transfer the stitches just worked as follows: Stitch from peg 3 to peg 1, stitch from peg 4 to peg 2.
Step 4: Transfer stitches from cable needle to pegs 3 and 4. Knit pegs 3 and 4.
With your knitting tool, gently, pull on the stitches to pull out any slack of yarn and tighten the stitches.
Set knitting loom to the desired number of pegs 80 (88, 96) pegs.
CO 80 (88, 96) sts, prepare to work in the rnd.
Rnd 1-Rnd 10: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 11: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Rnd 12: *k2, c4f, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13: *k6, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Rnd 14: *c4b, k2, p2; rep from * to the end rnd.
Rep Rnds 11-Rnd 14: until hat measures approx 7 (7.5, 8) inches from cast on edge.
Next rnd: Remove the stitches off the pegs and place them on a piece of scrap yarn. Re-set knitting loom to the following peg configuration 40 (44, 48). Place stitches back on the knitting loom, 2 loops per peg. Work the row as follows: *k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.
Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.
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Money has been on my mind lately. Or rather the lack of it in my life. I know I am not alone in that. What with the Powerball jackpot at a record high, the U.S. 1894-S Barber dime selling for almost $2 million, and bills needing to be paid, it’s not a wonder that money is always on everyone’s minds.
Unfortunately, the love of all our lives is not free. No… Not talking about Adam Levine or Idris Elba. Yarn. Yes. Yarn. THAT love of our lives. How do we know we are getting a great deal if it’s not on clearance?
You have a pattern you want to make. Don’t want to buy the yarn used in the pattern because it cost way too much. You are on a yarn budget. Oh the horror! Oh! Here is a yarn that is rather inexpensive per skein/ball! Wait… It doesn’t have as much yardage as this other that cost more. Hmmm… How do you know that you are getting the best deal with your money? On just hold on a minute… Was math just mentioned? Well not yet technically. But yes. It’s math lesson #3. Now I have mentioned it.
For all of you who claim you have yet to use algebra as an adult, you are wrong again. Here is more algebra all explained step by step to help you compare yarn prices so you too can get the best deal for that next project.
Here are 2 examples of yarn for your next project.
Let’s say the project needs 1100 yards of yarn.
First selection of yarn cost $6.99 per ball and has 150 yards per ball.
Second selection of yarn cost $12.99 (WHOA!) and has 400 yards per ball.
Let’s see which is cheaper for this project.
How do I compare yarn by price per yard?
You only need 3 things to calculate this. The price of the yarn and the number of yards/meters in the ball. Yes that’s just 2. The 3rd thing is the calculator. Lucky calculators are included on smart phones. Or you can download one. Hang on to that calculator. You will need it later…
All you do is divide the price by the number of yards. Huh? Ok, I will break it down for you.
Each letter will represent something.
A = the price of the ball of yarn
B = number of yards or meters in the ball
C = the answer
The equation is as follows:
A / B = C
What does / mean?
/ is the symbol used for divide.
Example: Lets calculate using the first yarn which cost $6.99 and has 150 yards. How much is the yarn per yard?
A = the price or 6.99
B = number of yards or 150
Let’s put those numbers into our equation.
6.99 / 150 = .0466
This yarn costs $0.05 per yard.
But the second selection of yarn cost $12.99 but has 400 yards. Is it cheaper than the first we calculated? Let’s see.
A = 12.99
B = 400
Using the equation above
12.99 / 400 = .0324
The second yarn cost $0.03 per yard.
The second yarn is cheaper per yard than the first. Therefore you will need to buy less of the second than the first.
How many balls do I need to buy?
Going by the example, the pattern calls for 1100 yards. You will just need to divide the amount of yarn needed by the number of yards in the ball. For this equation, we will use
D = number of yards needed for the pattern
E = number of yards in the ball of yarn you will use
F = number of balls of yarn needed
Now for the equation
D / E = F
Same equation. Different numbers for a different answer.
Let’s do both examples from before.
The first had 150 yards per ball.
D = number of yards needed or 1100
E = number yards in ball or 150
1100 / 150 = 7.33
Since the answer is over 7, you will need to buy 8 balls in order to have enough.
For the second, it has 400 yards
D = 1100
E = 400
1100 / 400 = 2.75
So you will need to buy only 3 balls of the second yarn.
Which is the better deal?
I suspect you already know which is the better deal, but let’s discuss why.
To see how much total you spend, you will just multiple the cost of the ball by the number of balls.
G = cost per ball
H = number of balls
J = total cost of the yarn for the project
The equation (x means to multiply)
G x H = J
For the first yarn,
G = 6.99 cost per ball
H = 8 balls needed
6.99 x 8 = 55.92
The first yarn will cost you $55.92 for this project.
Now for the second yarn.
G = 12.99
H = 3
12.99 x 3 = 38.97
The second yarn will cost you a total of $38.97.
Even though the first yarn was cheaper per ball, the second yarn is the cheaper for the entire project. You will save $16.97 by buying the more expensive yarn.
What have we learned from this little lesson other than math is still confusing and what on earth did she mean by that?? Hopefully we have learned that just because some yarns cost more than others, we save money by buying the more expensive yarn because it has more yards. Some don’t. Some do. Just be sure to check that label for the yardage before ignoring a pricier yarn. And never leave your calculator at home!
Never have an empty loom and Happy Knitting!!
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Winter dawn skies are spectacular to behold with deep blues and the hint of sunshine rays peeking through giving the sky a wonderful purple hue.
At the start of 2016, our focus is going to be in simple, beginner patterns. These patterns will evolve into more intermediate level by the middle of the year, then tackling some advanced patterns by the end of the year.
Knitting loom: Hat loom, set at large gauge, 40 pegs.
Yarn: Approx 75 yds of super bulky merino wool. Malabrigo Rasta in Abril was used in sample.
Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.
Gauge: 4sts x 10 rows = 2 inches
Size: Fits adult female | head circumference up to 21″
Set knitting loom, to large gauge at 40 pegs.
Cast on 40 sts, prepare to work in the round.
Rnd 1-Rnd 6: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 8: *p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 7 and 8: until item measures 7.5 inches from cast on edge (approx 30 rnds).
Next rnd: Move the loop from every “even” peg to its neighbor “odd” peg (from 4 to 3, from 2 to 1, etc). k to the end of rnd.
Bind off with gather removal method.
Weave ends in. Block lightly.
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January slinks along, dragging her cold, gray days along like a dreary cloak- blanketing everything in ashen shades. She dulls the sun and frosts the air with ice. Ah, but a closer look yields a secret beauty. A faint shimmer here, a glittering dusting there – luminescence! Capture a bit of this luminous beauty with this double knit wreath project.
Knitting Loom: KB 32 peg loom
Yarn: 130 yards of Buttercream Alpaca Solid in Gray.
80” of a worsted weight yarn in a similar color.
Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors, glue gun and glue.
Additional Materials: 16” Floracraft Foam Wreath
9 yards of 1 ½ inch wide sheer ribbon in silver (Offray Aria was used for the sample)
1 focal piece/item (6” Silver Satin Bird Clip by Touch of Nature was used for the sample)
any additional embellishments desired (2 Victoria Lynn Pearl Rhinestone Accent Picks were used for the sample)
Gauge: Not essential for this project.
Size: approximately 16” in diameter
HS st – Half Stockinette Stitch
l – left
r – right
Modified Figure 8 Cast-On: Starting on the left side, place a slip knot on the first peg of the lower board. Bring the working yarn up to the second peg on the upper board. Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.
Take the working yarn down to the third peg on the lower board. Wrap the peg in a clockwise direction.
Take the working yarn up to the fourth peg on the upper board. Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.
Continue working in this manner until the desired number of peg pairs (stitches) have been wrapped.
Complete the cast on by wrapping the knitting board in HS st, r-l. Knit the pegs that have 2 wraps on them. (This counts as row 1 for this project).
Half Stockinette Stitch: The Half Stockinette Stitch (HS st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom. The wraps will travel at a slight slant. One peg is skipped between each wrap. These skipped pegs will remain empty while working in HS st. Also, in this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped. When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board. When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.
Wrapping in HS st, r-l: (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board). Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg. Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.
Wrapping in HS st, l-r: (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board). Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg. Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.
Work back and forth across the board in HS st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.
Bind Off: Working yarn should be at the right hand side of the knitting board/loom. Pick up the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board and move it backward to peg 2 of the upper board, above the stitch on this peg. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg. (This peg will now be empty.)
Move the stitch forward to peg 3 of the lower board, above the stitch on this peg. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Move the stitch backward to peg 4 of the upper board. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Move the stitch forward to peg 5 of the lower board. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Continue working back and forth across the knitting board until the last peg has two stitches on it. Pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg. Replace this stitch on the peg and gently pull on the working yarn to ease out any excess slack.
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 5” length. With the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the last stitch. Remove the stitch from the peg and gently pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure the last bound stitch.
Knitted Wreath Covering:
Cast on 7 pairs of pegs using the modified figure 8 cast on method.
Row 1: Work in HS st, l-r.
Row 2: Work in HS st, r-l.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until knitted piece measures 50.5 inches in length. Bind off. Weave in all yarn ends.
Thread the yarn needle with the worsted weight yarn. Lay the wreath form down on a flat surface and slip the knitted wreath covering underneath the wreath
Wrap the knitted wreath covering around the wreath form and begin sewing it in place. (This will be the back of the wreath, so any seaming method will work.)
Continue working around the entire wreath, wrapping and seaming the knitted wreath cover in place. Once the entire wreath has been covered, take a moment to straighten the knitted wreath cover, then seam the ends together.
Once the ends have been seamed together, weave in the yarn ends and get ready to have a little fun embellishing!
Plug in the glue gun so it will be warming up. Cut two pieces of ribbon: a 10” length and an 18” length. Glue one end of the 18” length to the back of the wreath, covering the joining seam of the knitted wreath cover.
Take the 10” length of ribbon and glue the ends together, creating a loop.
Feed the 18” length of ribbon through the loop that was just created, then wrap it around the top of the wreath and glue in place on the back of the wreath.
With the remaining ribbon, create a bow and glue it to the ribbon wrapped at the top center of the wreath.
Add a focal piece, if desired.
Add additional embellishments, if desired (ie – floral pins, floral picks, beads, buttons, feathers, twine, ribbon, flowers, etc)
Now, go find the perfect spot to hang your beautiful wreath!
(ps – not in love with the monochromatic look? Try this project using your favorite colors)
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Designed by Bethany Dailey
Now that the holidays have passed and all the rush and hurry is behind us, it’s time to work up a stitch on our looms that doesn’t take too much thinking or tricky finger-work to accomplish. This stitch pattern is just the ticket! It is a simple 8 row repeat and once you get the hang of them, they can be worked entirely from memory. The long alternating dashes resemble a nice rustic weave, and results in a fairly thick and sturdy panel. It would be a perfect stitch for a cowl or scarf, or even an entire blanket!
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Triple Slip Rib Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work. To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. This stitch pattern will do this in groups of three stitches at a time.
*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place. Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k1, p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p1, WYIF-3.
Rows 5 & 6: repeat Row 1.
Row 7: repeat Row 4.
Row 8: repeat Row 3.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p39.
Row 2: k39.
Row 3: p39.
Row 4: k39.
Row 5: p2, *p2, k1, repeat form * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: p3, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p1, k2.
Row 9 & 10: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 11: p4, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 12: k2, p2, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 13-60: repeat Rows 5-12 6 more times.
Row 61 & 62: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 63: p39.
Row 64: k39.
Row 65: p39.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)
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Double Knit 101-Part III
Nautical Dishcloth Set
Spring Mountain Shawl
Spring Blossoms Cowl
Mila’s Zippy Cowl
Stitchology 19: Irish Moss
Woodlands Throw (Double Knit)
Crayon Box Throw (double knit)
‘Back to Basics’ Blanket (double knit)
Very Berry Bonnet
Winter Dawn Beanie