January slinks along, dragging her cold, gray days along like a dreary cloak- blanketing everything in ashen shades. She dulls the sun and frosts the air with ice. Ah, but a closer look yields a secret beauty. A faint shimmer here, a glittering dusting there – luminescence! Capture a bit of this luminous beauty with this double knit wreath project.
Knitting Loom: KB 32 peg loom
Yarn: 130 yards of Buttercream Alpaca Solid in Gray.
80” of a worsted weight yarn in a similar color.
Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors, glue gun and glue.
Additional Materials: 16” Floracraft Foam Wreath
9 yards of 1 ½ inch wide sheer ribbon in silver (Offray Aria was used for the sample)
1 focal piece/item (6” Silver Satin Bird Clip by Touch of Nature was used for the sample)
any additional embellishments desired (2 Victoria Lynn Pearl Rhinestone Accent Picks were used for the sample)
Gauge: Not essential for this project.
Size: approximately 16” in diameter
HS st – Half Stockinette Stitch
l – left
r – right
Modified Figure 8 Cast-On: Starting on the left side, place a slip knot on the first peg of the lower board. Bring the working yarn up to the second peg on the upper board. Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.
Take the working yarn down to the third peg on the lower board. Wrap the peg in a clockwise direction.
Take the working yarn up to the fourth peg on the upper board. Wrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction.
Continue working in this manner until the desired number of peg pairs (stitches) have been wrapped.
Complete the cast on by wrapping the knitting board in HS st, r-l. Knit the pegs that have 2 wraps on them. (This counts as row 1 for this project).
Half Stockinette Stitch: The Half Stockinette Stitch (HS st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom. The wraps will travel at a slight slant. One peg is skipped between each wrap. These skipped pegs will remain empty while working in HS st. Also, in this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped. When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board. When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.
Wrapping in HS st, r-l: (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board). Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg. Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.
Wrapping in HS st, l-r: (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board). Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg. Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg. Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.
Work back and forth across the board in HS st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.
Bind Off: Working yarn should be at the right hand side of the knitting board/loom. Pick up the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board and move it backward to peg 2 of the upper board, above the stitch on this peg. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg. (This peg will now be empty.)
Move the stitch forward to peg 3 of the lower board, above the stitch on this peg. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Move the stitch backward to peg 4 of the upper board. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Move the stitch forward to peg 5 of the lower board. With the knitting tool, pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg.
Continue working back and forth across the knitting board until the last peg has two stitches on it. Pull the lower stitch up through the upper stitch and off of the peg. Replace this stitch on the peg and gently pull on the working yarn to ease out any excess slack.
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 5” length. With the knitting tool, pull the yarn tail up through the last stitch. Remove the stitch from the peg and gently pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure the last bound stitch.
Knitted Wreath Covering:
Cast on 7 pairs of pegs using the modified figure 8 cast on method.
Row 1: Work in HS st, l-r.
Row 2: Work in HS st, r-l.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until knitted piece measures 50.5 inches in length. Bind off. Weave in all yarn ends.
Thread the yarn needle with the worsted weight yarn. Lay the wreath form down on a flat surface and slip the knitted wreath covering underneath the wreath
Wrap the knitted wreath covering around the wreath form and begin sewing it in place. (This will be the back of the wreath, so any seaming method will work.)
Continue working around the entire wreath, wrapping and seaming the knitted wreath cover in place. Once the entire wreath has been covered, take a moment to straighten the knitted wreath cover, then seam the ends together.
Once the ends have been seamed together, weave in the yarn ends and get ready to have a little fun embellishing!
Plug in the glue gun so it will be warming up. Cut two pieces of ribbon: a 10” length and an 18” length. Glue one end of the 18” length to the back of the wreath, covering the joining seam of the knitted wreath cover.
Take the 10” length of ribbon and glue the ends together, creating a loop.
Feed the 18” length of ribbon through the loop that was just created, then wrap it around the top of the wreath and glue in place on the back of the wreath.
With the remaining ribbon, create a bow and glue it to the ribbon wrapped at the top center of the wreath.
Add a focal piece, if desired.
Add additional embellishments, if desired (ie – floral pins, floral picks, beads, buttons, feathers, twine, ribbon, flowers, etc)
Now, go find the perfect spot to hang your beautiful wreath!
(ps – not in love with the monochromatic look? Try this project using your favorite colors)
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Designed by Bethany Dailey
Now that the holidays have passed and all the rush and hurry is behind us, it’s time to work up a stitch on our looms that doesn’t take too much thinking or tricky finger-work to accomplish. This stitch pattern is just the ticket! It is a simple 8 row repeat and once you get the hang of them, they can be worked entirely from memory. The long alternating dashes resemble a nice rustic weave, and results in a fairly thick and sturdy panel. It would be a perfect stitch for a cowl or scarf, or even an entire blanket!
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Triple Slip Rib Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work. To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. This stitch pattern will do this in groups of three stitches at a time.
*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place. Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k1, p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p1, WYIF-3.
Rows 5 & 6: repeat Row 1.
Row 7: repeat Row 4.
Row 8: repeat Row 3.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p39.
Row 2: k39.
Row 3: p39.
Row 4: k39.
Row 5: p2, *p2, k1, repeat form * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: p3, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p1, k2.
Row 9 & 10: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 11: p4, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 12: k2, p2, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 13-60: repeat Rows 5-12 6 more times.
Row 61 & 62: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 63: p39.
Row 64: k39.
Row 65: p39.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)
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