Feb 12, 2016

Crayon Box Throw (double knit)

Design by Jacquelyn Darragh

Work with the Ribbing stitch in this fun, colorful throw. The bright colors and bold stripes make this a simple knit favorite and with the double knit, double the warmth!

throw_crayon_box

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight, 100% Acrylic, 355 yards per skein. Machine washable and dryable Colors: Grape, 2 skeins. Pink, Tropical Pink, Yellow, Peacock Blue, 1 skein each. Neon Green, I Love this Yarn, Worsted Weight , 255 yards per skein. 1 skein

Stitches: Rib Stitch and Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 5 stitches X 6 rows = 2 inches

 Size: 28 x 34 inches

Instructionscrayonbox_blanket2

Use two strands of yarn as one, throughout the making of this throw. When you are knitting a solid color, for example, grape rib stitch, just use both ends of the skein of yarn, pulling one strand from the center and one strand from the outside. When using two different colors together, it will be much easier if you use one strand of each pulling from the center of the skein, which will keep them from tangling.

With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. Always tie on new color at 2nd stitch so that knots do not show from outer edge.

Cast on: 64 stitches in Stockinette stitch with Grape yarn. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Note: Complete throw is worked in Rib Stitch until you come to the bind off row.

Rib Stitch: After the cast on, start first row by wrapping the top 1st peg and bring down to the bottom 3rd peg. You are skipping peg 1 and 2 on lower board. Your yarn is at an angle. Now go back up to top board to 3rd peg and wrap. Take yarn down to lower 5th peg. Continue wrapping every other peg at this angle till you get to the end of your stitches. To return, take yarn around end of pegs to wrap the top last peg. Continue by wrapping all the empty pegs. You will see that you are going back with peg 1 to 3 again and working at the opposite angle. This is what creates the ribs. It is correct that the last pegs are wrapped consecutively. Hook over all pegs. Repeat for each row according to color design.

Knit 5 rows Grape yarn. Tie on Lime yarn. Do not cut the Grape, but carry it in along with Lime yarn.

Knit 1 row in Lime. Cut Lime and knot.

Knit 3 rows Grape. Tie in Lime yarn. Cut grape and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut the one strand of yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Blue yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime in rib. Cut and tie off the Lime yarn. Tie on the other end of the Blue yarn so that you now have both strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Cut the blue yarn and tie off. Tie on Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on the Grape yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on two strands of the Pink yarn.

Knit 4 rows in Pink.   Cut one strand of Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Tropical Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink rib. Cut and tie off the Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Tropical Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut both strands of yarn and tie off. Tie on 2 strands of Grape yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Blue.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Lime.

Knit 5 rows of Lime. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 5 rows of Grape. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Tropical Pink.

Knit 5 rows of Tropical Pink. Cut one strand of Tropical Pink yarn coming from the outside of the skein, and tie on one strand of the yarn from the inside of the Pink skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Pink and Tropical Pink. Cut and tie off the Tropical Pink yarn. Tie on the other end of the Pink yarn so that you now have both strands of Pink.

Knit 4 rows of Pink. Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 2 rows in Grape. Cut and tie off the Grape yarn. Tie on the Yellow yarn.

Knit 2 rows in Yellow. Cut and tie off the Yellow yarn. Tie on two strands of the Blue yarn.

Knit 5 rows of Blue. Cut one strand of blue yarn coming from the outside of the skein and tie on one strand of the Lime yarn from the inside of the blue skein.

Treating the two yarns as one, knit 5 rows of Blue and Lime. Cut and tie off the Blue yarn. Tie on the other end of the Lime yarn, so that you now have both strands of Lime.

Knit 3 rows in Lime.   Cut and tie off yarn. Tie on 2 strands of Grape.

Knit 3 rows in Grape. Do not cut grape yarn but let it carry through. Tie on 2 strands of Lime and knit one row of Lime. Cut and tie off Lime yarn.

Knit 5 rows in Grape.

Knit 1 row in Grape Stockinette stitch.

Bind off the board remembering that you are still treating 2 strands as one, so each side of the board in which you are doing the crochet bind off, will have two loops. Weave in ends.

Bind off the anchor yarn treating 2 strands as one. Lift two loops over two loops. Weave in ends.

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Feb 8, 2016

Cotton Love

Design by Jenny Stark

Love is in the air this month and hearts in all colors, shapes, and mediums abound.  Get ‘cotton love’ with these adorable double-knit cotton hearts.  Because they work up so quickly, you’ll have time to make one for all of the sweethearts in your life.

hearts_jenny

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: 100 % cotton yarn in worsted weight.  Peaches & Crème and Sugar n Cream cotton yarns were used in the samples.

Notions: knitting tool, yarn needle, scissors.

Gauge: Not essential for this project.

Size: Approximately 5.5” x 5.75”

Abbreviations:

DZ st – Duplicate Zigzag Stitch

l – left

r – right

 

Techniques2016-02-10 14.06.49

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3386

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.

IMG_3387

Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

 

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

*This project is double knit.  This means that the project will be worked back and forth, using the upper and lower board of the loom.  Lower board = the rail and pegs closest to you.  Upper board = the rail and pegs farther from you.  The board will not be rotated, so the lower board and the upper board will not change.  For this project, disregard the 2 pegs at each end of the knitting loom.  They are not included in the peg counts for this design.  So, peg one of the lower board would be the first peg on the left hand side of the rail closest to you.

*Work with 2 strands of yarn held together as one throughout this project.

 

Cast On

Make a slip knot and place it on the 7th peg of the lower board.

Wrap the 8th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3373

Wrap the 8th peg on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3374

Wrap the 9th peg on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3375

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Cast on is now complete.

Bottom of the Heart

Increase #1:

Wrap peg 7 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3379

Wrap peg 6 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3380

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #2:

Wrap peg 9 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

IMG_3382

Wrap peg 10 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

IMG_3383

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #3:

Wrap peg 6 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 5 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #4:

Wrap peg 10 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 11 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #5:

Wrap peg 5 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 4 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #6:

Wrap peg 11 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 12 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #7:

Wrap peg 4 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 3 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #8:

Wrap peg 12 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 13 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #9:

Wrap peg 3 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 2 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase #10:

Wrap peg 13 on the lower board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 14 on the upper board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Increase # 11:

Wrap peg 2 on the upper board in a clockwise direction.

Wrap peg 1 on the lower board in a counter clockwise direction.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

 

Left Curve

Move the stitch from peg 7 on the lower board to peg 6 on the lower board.

IMG_3388

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 6 of the lower board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 1 of the lower board to peg 2 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the upper board to peg 3 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 2 of the lower board to peg 3 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the upper board to peg 4 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 3 of the lower board to peg 4 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the upper board to peg 5 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, l-r until peg 6 on the lower board has been wrapped and peg 7 on the upper board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 4 of the lower board to peg 5 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the upper board to peg 6 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, r-l.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 5 of the lower board to peg 6 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the upper board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 6 of the lower board and peg 7 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 6 of the lower board to peg 7 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 7 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 7 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The left curve is now bound off.

Right Curve

Move the stitch from peg 8 on the upper board to peg 9 on the upper board.

Working with 2 strands held together as one, reattach the yarn at the right hand side of the loom, beginning at peg 13 of the lower board.

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on peg 9 of the upper board.)

Decrease #1:

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the lower board to peg 12 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 14 of the upper board to peg 13 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #2:

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the lower board to peg 11 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 13 of the upper board to peg 12 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #3:

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the lower board to peg 10 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 12 of the upper board to peg 11 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Work in DZ st, r-l until peg 9 on the upper board has been wrapped and peg 8 on the lower board has been wrapped.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.

Decrease #4:

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the lower board to peg 9 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 11 of the upper board to peg 10 of the upper board.

Work in DZ st, l-r.  Knit all pegs with 2 sets of stitches on them.  (Knit 2 stitches over 1 on the end pegs.)

Decrease #5:

Move the stitch on peg 9 of the lower board to peg 8 of the lower board.

Move the stitch on peg 10 of the upper board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitches on peg 8 of the lower board and peg 9 of the upper board.

Move the stitch on peg 8 of the lower board to peg 9 of the upper board.

Knit the stitch on peg 9 of the upper board.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Using the yarn tail, knit peg 9 of the upper board.  Pull the yarn tail up through the stitch, removing it from the loom.  Pull the yarn tail to tighten and secure this final stitch.  The right curve is now bound off.

Weave in all yarn ends.

So quick, so fun, make a ton of cotton loves!

Happy

Heart

Day!

 

2 Comments

  • What a darling idea, Jenny! I’m lovin ‘it! I l really love your use of double knit for a wash cloth…I bet it has wonderful squish! :D

  • This is really hard to figure out without some short tutorials. ?

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Feb 5, 2016

‘Back to Basics’ Blanket (double knit)

A GREAT PATTERN FOR BEGINNERS!!  …an introduction to double knit. No matter how fierce the winter gets, this lovely throw will keep you warm and cozy. Designed by Jacquelyn Darragh

blanket_gradient2

Knitting Loom:  28” Knitting Board + extenders set up for double knit at 2 cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky, 100% Superwash Wool. 137 yards per skein. Hand wash in cold water and lay flat to dry. Colors: Camel Heather (Camel), 3 skeins, White, 3 skeins, and Fjord Heather (Blue), 2 skeins

Stitches: Stockinette

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook

Gauge: 2 stitches X 3 rows = approx. 1 inch

Size: 34 x 50 inches

change_color1

 

Basic Notes: With each color change, cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color. All stitches are Stockinette. Check out chart below.

To keep side edges even and smooth, tie on your new yarns at 2nd stitch between the rows of pegs. This will keep the knots away from the edge and hidden from the finished throw. When cutting each yarn, leave a yarn tail approximately 3” that will lay flat between the 2 rows of pegs.

Cast on row will be the same as one row of stockinette stitch. You start on Left side of loom on top peg #1 with a slip knot; bring yarn down to peg #2 on lower board. Wrap yarn around, and continue back up to peg # 3 on top board. Continue weaving the yarn around every other peg, alternating from one board to the other, to end. Wrap around the end at last peg. Return back to beginning by wrapping all the pegs that were skipped on first pass. Now all the pegs for this project will be wrapped.

Lay a piece of yarn across the stitches with the yarn ends dangling at each end of loom. This is referred to as the anchor yarn or waste yarn. It is usually removed after the knitting is complete. Now, wrap all the pegs again just as before so that you have 2 loops on each peg. You are ready to hook over using the knit hook. This means to lift the bottom loop, on each peg over the top loop, and into the center of the loom. Do this to all pegs, so that they have only one wrap of yarn. Your stitches are now cast on and you are ready to work in stockinette stitch.

The stockinette stitch produces a smooth knit, and is usually the first stitch learned in double knitting. It is the same process as casting on. Once you wrap all pegs again, hook over. This completes one row of stockinette stitch. Continue this stitch with the color changes for the entire afghan.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 64 stitches with Camel yarn in Stockinette stitch. Lay contrasting anchor yarn.

Knit 7 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in Camel yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 7 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 8 rows in White. Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 2 rows in Blue. Tie in White yarn. Cut Blue and knot.

Knit 7 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 3 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 6 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 4 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 5 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 5 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 4 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 6 rows in Camel. Tie in White yarn.  Cut Camel and knot.

Knit 3 rows in White. Tie in Camel yarn.  Cut White and knot.

Knit 8 rows in Camel.

Bind Off your stitches with a loose crochet bind off.

Bind Off at anchor yarn with loose crochet bind off.

Now that the blanket is complete, finish off with this method. Place blanket in pot or sink with hot water for 4 minutes. Allow yarn to fully soak up all the water. Remove from sink and gently roll in a full size towel or two to absorb as much of the water as possible. Place in your dryer for five minutes on medium heat to fluff and soften the wool. Block to specified size and allow to air dry until fully dry. Enjoy your lovely throw!

backtobasics_chart

 

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Feb 1, 2016

Stitchology 18: Hugs & Kisses

 

XOXOX, a symbol for hugs and kisses, is a term used for expressing sincerity, faith, love, or good friendship at the end of a written letter, email, or text message.  This practice has been in use clear back into the Middle Ages. Since most of the common people could not read or write, the ‘X’ was placed on documents, and a kiss was placed over it as a show of their sincerity.  The ‘o’ physically resembles a hug, and has joined the ‘X’ near signatures as a perfect pair to express love and friendship.  With Valentine’s Day coming up this month, it’s a perfect time to learn this stitch. :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Hugs & Kisses Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10 for repeats of the same column, or 20 for repeats of the 2 alternating columns.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap…except in the row before working the cables, as noted below.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 4 pegs in the correct order.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to e-wrap the knit stitches that sit right in line with the cable pegs in the row before the cable row to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. Simply untwist the e-wrap loops when creating the cables.

[2/2RC]:  Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loops from the 2 right pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right pegs first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the right.
  • Knit the 2 stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty left pegs and knit them.  Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

[2/2LC]: Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the 2 left pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the left.
  • Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty right pegs and knit them. Knit the 2 stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

 

Chart-Key-Hugs & Kisses

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Rows 1 & 2:  p1, k8, p2, k8, p1.

(**Note: if you need extra room to cross those cable stitches, you can read Row 2 (and all rows right before a cable row) as: p1, ew8, p2, ew8, p1. Just make sure to untwist the e-wraps while working the cables.)

Row 3: p1, 2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p1.

Rows 4-6: rep Row 1.

Row 7: rep Row 3.

Rows 8-10: rep Row 1.

Row 11: p1, 2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p1.

Rows 12-14: rep Row 1.

Row 15: rep Row 11.

Row 16: rep Row 1.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Hugs n Kisses angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Rows 1-4: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5:  k2, p1, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p1, k2.

Row 6: p3, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p3.

hugs n kisses close(**Note: the k8’s can be e-wraps here…see notes above.)

Row 7:  k2, p1, *2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Row 8: rep Row 6.  (**Use regular knits/u-stitches here.)

Row 9: rep Row 5.

Row 10: rep Row 6. (**The k8’s can be e-wraps…see notes above.)

Row 11: rep Row 7.

Rows 12-14: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 15: k2, p1, *2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Rows 16-18: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 19: rep Row 15.

Row 20: rep Row 8.

Row 21-60: Repeat Rows 5-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-64: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Wonderful!

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Jan 30, 2016

Very Berry Bonnet

 

Very Berry Bonnet side angle b

 

Designed by Bethany A Dailey

**Edited 2/5/16 to add a note to Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22.

**Edited 2/10/16 Brim section to correct remaining number of loops on each long side of the loom to 34 (68 total).

A hat to keep you cozy warm with a vibrantly whimsical flair! This design is unique in that it is styled to be worked from the crown down to create those playful points at the ears.

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom, 92 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 395 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample used Universal Yarn Classic Shades (1 skein in Campfire used for main color) 197 yds/180 m., and Patons Classic Wool Worsted (1 skein in Plum Heather used for contast color) 210 yds/192 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter.

Gauge: 13 sts x 33 rows= 4 inches (in pattern, using U-Stitch)

Finished Measurements: Circumference: 20″, Length from crown to middle brim: 10″ (ear points add 3”)

Skills Needed: Knit/U-stitch, Purl, Drawstring CO, Half Hitch CO (or CO of your choice), and Basic BO, braiding and pompom making.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
MC: main color
CC: contrast color
Rnd(s): round(s)
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
HHCO: half hitch cast on
S1: slip one/skip one
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

For the sample, all knit stitches were made using the U-stitch. Work whichever type of knit stitch helps you achieve the proper gauge.

Drawstring CO tutorial

Half Hitch CO tutorial

Very Berry Bonnet BInstructions

Set loom to work in the round using 68 pegs, which are centered on the loom. Peg #1 should be at a corner (where the slider and long side meet). Using the Main Color, drawstring cast on to 68 pegs.

Rnds 1-6: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22: (*Note: you will be increasing the number of pegs used by 4, at each corner of the pegs currently being used.) HHCO to corner peg just before peg 1 (this will be the new peg #1), k all pegs on 1st long side of loom to 2nd corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on 2nd long side of loom to 4th corner, HHCO to next empty peg, k all pegs on slider.

Rnds 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21: knit all, including newly CO pegs. Move sliders gradually outward to accommodate new sts. (After Rnd 22, there will be 92 pegs filled.)

Rnds 23-28: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 29-34: * p2, k2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 35-70: rep Rnds 23-34 a total of 3 times.

Prepare to work in a flat panel using only 12 pegs at each end of the loom. (Pegs 4-1, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 92-90 on first end and pegs 39-41, 5 slider pegs, & pegs 47-50.)

Work the first section of 12 pegs, keeping in the same pattern as before, while decreasing at the center with a k2tog every other row. Expect the decreasing to cause there to be 3 knits or 3 purls together at the center occasionally. When there is only one loop left, cut at 10” for seaming and pull through loop. Repeat procedure with the other side’s 12 pegs.

Brim

Very Berry Bonnet flatThere will now be 34 loops remaining on each long side of the loom (68 total). Prepare to CO to work in as a flat panel in the following method:

Using the Contrast Color, and leaving a 10” tail for seaming later, CO to 92 pegs, centering them on the loom so that the beginning CO loop is at the center of the front long side of the loom. Work all the way around the loom and back to the 2nd center peg of the front long side of the loom. The original loops of this front long side of the loom will NOT be worked in the following rows. These pegs are simply being borrowed temporarily— just work the rows while ignoring those bottom loops. Only the back long side original loops will be worked into the row.

Row 1: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to back long side with previous sts. Work these sts following the same ribbing pattern, but with 2 loops worked as one (the original loops and the newly CO loops). After these 30 sts are worked, continue around the loom to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2: s1, *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 3: s1, *p1, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 4-16: rep Rows 2 & 3.

Rows 17-32: rep Rows 2 & 3, but BO the first 2 sts of each row.

Loosely Basic BO remaining 60 sts. Leave a 14” tail for seaming.

Repeat the same Brim Instructions, but CO starting at the center of the BACK long side, working the original loops from the FRONT long side into the first row.

Finishing

Very Berry Bonnet stitching Very Berry Bonnet- stitching braidCinch the Drawstring CO by pulling carefully but firmly on the yarn tail until the sts are as snug as they will go. Pull tail to inside of hat and stitch around circle to close completely. Knot securely.

Using the long tails of the MC, neatly stitch the edges of the brim to the MC points on each side of the hat.

Create 2 braids by wrapping both the MC and the CC around the loom 6 times. Cut the loops at each end. This will provide 2 sections of 12 strands of yarn. Tie each section with an overhand knot at the top. Divide the sections into 3 groups of 4 strands and braid them together until 4” remain unbraided at the bottom. Secure with another overhand knot.

Pinch the top knot of one of the braids between the back side’s brim at the point section. Take the front side’s brim point and wrap around the back side’s to seal the braid inside. Using the long tails of the CC, stitch the braid and corner flaps securely in place, keeping edges even and tidy. Repeat on the other side. A few hidden stitches can be tucked into the back brim to keep it folded upwards.

Create three pompoms using both the MC and the CC yarns. Secure onto place at the top of the hat, and at the ends of each braid. The overhand knot at the bottom of the braid serves as a place to tie the pompoms to so that they have a better hold.

Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

8 Comments

  • Can’t wait to get started on this! We are supposed to get up to 14 inches of snow today and tomorrow so I got some great yarn to use! I’m sure I’ll have tons of questions but it looks like an awesome pattern. Thanks!

  • Wow! This bonnet is the perfect project for 14 inches of snow! :D I will be happy to answer any questions you may have, no worries. ;)

    Have fun, Lisa…both with the snow *and* the looming!

  • OK, I’ve done CO and first 6 rows. Struggling with 7. HHCO to just before peg 1 does that mean go all the way around using HHCO? I’m working counterclockwise so maybe that makes a difference?do I need to start over and work clockwise? Told you I would need help! Thanks!

  • Yes, this row was a tad tricky to explain. All you are doing is adding 4 extra pegs, located at each corner of the pegs you are currently using.

    So, in answer to your question…no, you don’t CO all the way around the loom…just *add* the corner peg next to peg #1 before working your way to the next corner peg in line, going the same direction as you have been the whole time. You will then add a peg here too (at the 2nd corner)…and so on, for a total of 4 added pegs, each of these with a HHCO loop. Is that better? :)

  • Thank you! It makes total sense now and I’m on row 12!

  • Yay! Look at you go! :D

    Thank you for your question, as it helped me to know how to word it better. Good feedback is priceless! :)

  • Love the pattern but I must be missing something. After I finished with the first color and am starting the brim I somehow have 34 loops on each side and not 30. Could you please explain what I am doing wrong.

    Thanks!

  • Hi Kristen! :)

    You are exactly correct. Good catch! I have updated the pattern accordingly. Thank you so much for letting me know.

    I can’t wait to see your bonnet when it’s all done! :D

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