Sep 7, 2015

Stitchology 13

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib

I’ve been pleased as punch with the way this month’s stitch turned out…so pretty and delicate.  The best part is that it is so very easy to accomplish, with only four rows to repeat…nice!  This stitch is also in the ribbing family, which makes it extremely elastic if you find yourself in need of a lacy design for a hat, socks, or a banded trim.  The body of a sweater worked this way would be absolutely breathtaking! :)  But for now, let’s learn this pretty design while whipping up an afghan square…

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Square

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage aquae)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog]:  Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg, and the k2tog peg.  Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the k2tog peg.

[ssk, yo]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the ssk peg and the empty yo peg. Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the ssk peg.

Chart Key: k2tog, ssk


Repeating Pattern Rows

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Stitch

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2.

Row 2: k2, p1, k2, p1.

Row 3: p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2.

Row 4: k2, p1, k2, p1.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 36 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p36.

Row 2: k36.

Row 3: p36.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k4, *p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 5:  p2, k2, *p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6:  k4, *p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2, repeat from * to  last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7:  Repeat Row 5.

Rows 8-59:  Repeat Rows 4-7.

Finishing Rows

Row 60: k2, p32, k2.

Row 61: p2, k32, p2.

Row 62: k2, p32, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)


  • This is perfect. Just the stitch pattern I have been looking for to use to make a winter coat for my Great Dane cross.


  • That’s so great to hear, Heather! I would love to see your poochie’s coat once you finish! :)

  • Super pretty, Bethany! Great work!

  • Aw, thank you, Jenny! :D

  • thank you so much for sharing, so if I follow the pattern, here this will work well with the All-n-one loom? I am still pretty new to this, like new langune sorry for spelling so still it takes me a while to figure this out.

    Sincerely Carolann Adair

  • Yes, Carolann, this pattern should work very well with the All-n-One Loom. :)

  • This is going to look awesome on the socks I am going to make, thank you so much for the inspirtation. Could one of you please do a pattern for socks starting with the toe? I never miss an opportunity to look at this blog. I have tried and almost succeeded on most

  • Oh, this stitch will make beautiful socks! I’m sure there has been sock projects here for toe-up socks, but in the meantime, here is a video tutorial on how to do just that that! :)

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Sep 4, 2015

Candy Striped Beret

Look and feel as sweet as a peppermint while wearing this fun beret. Cashmere blend yarn gives you something extra special. The top is worked in short rows as a flat panel then placed back on the loom and worked in a connected flat panel to decrease the sides. A challenge that is worth the effort to create a sweet hat that will be the envy of everyone who sees it.

LH9A0495cropLoom: All-n-One Loom

Yarn: 200 yards cashmere blend worsted weight yarn. Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in crimson (300054) and white (300025) was used in sample, 1 ball each color.

Notions: Knit hook, G/4.00mm crochet hook, tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch

Size: Adult

Pattern Notes:LH9A0450

CA – Color A – Crimson

CB – Color B – White

After each decrease row, move stitches inward and adjust the loom.

Cast on from left to right, working odd rows from right to left and even rows from left to right.

Keep final bind off very loose so the hat will not be too tight around the forehead.  Do not use e-wrap knit stitch.


K: Knit

P: Purl

S: Slip

W&T: Wrap and turn

CO: Cast on

BO: Bind off

Rep: Repeat


With CA, chain cast on 19 pegs.

Row 1: S1, K18

Row 2: S1, P17, K1

Row 3: S1, K16, W&T

Row 4: P16, K1

Row 5: S1, K14, W&T

Row 6: P14, K1

Row 7: S1, K12, W&T

Row 8: P12, K1

Row 9: S1, K10, W&T

Row 10: P10, K1

Row 11: S1, K8, W&T

Row 12: P8, K1

Row 13: S1, K6, W&T

Row 14: P6, K1

Row 15: S1, K4, W&T

Row 16: P4, K1

Row 17: S1, K2, W&T

Row 18: P2, K1

Row 19: S1, W&T

Cut CA. Add CB.

Rows 20 – 38: repeat rows 1 – 19

Cut CB. Add CA.

Repeat rows 1 – 38, 5 times.

After 12th wedge is complete, bind off.

After binding off, sew long edges with mattress stitch.

Prepare 12 bobbins, 6 of CA and 6 of CB, by winding 6 yards of yarn on a 3.5” x 1” piece of cardboard or a sponge roller.

Set loom to 106 pegs. Place pinwheel over loom with wrong side facing up. *Working from right to left, starting with the first stitch of a CA wedge, decrease by placing 2 edge stitches together on the first peg. Then place the next 7 edge stitches on the next 7 pegs. Then place each edge stitch on the pegs until 6 wedge edge stitches are on the loom. * Half the loom should have stitches. Then repeat from * to * until all pegs have edge stitches on them. The 1st and 7th CA sections should have 8 stitches while the remaining sections have 9 stitches.

The band of the beret will be worked as a connected flat panel. Work in rows, not rounds. Work knit rows from right to left. Work purl rows from left to right. After each decreasing row, move stitches in and adjust loom to the number of stitches. Starting with row 3, every odd numbered row will start 1 stitch to the left by slipping the 1st stitch and ending the row on the slipped stitch causing the colors to move over by 1 stitch every other row.

Row 1: Add 1st CA bobbin – K8, add 1st CB bobbin – K9, add 2nd CA bobbin – K9, add 2nd CB bobbin – K9, add 3rd CA bobbin – K9, add 3rd CB bobbin – K9, add 4th CA bobbin – K8, add 4th CB bobbin – K9, add 5th CA bobbin – K9, add 5th CB – K9, add 6th CA bobbin – K9, add 6th CB bobbin – K9 (106 sts rem)

Note: Starting with row 2, twist the 2 strands together when you finish with one color and go to the next to connect them together.

Row 2:  With CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P8, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P9, with CB – P9, with CA – P8

Row 3: S1, *with CA – K8, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6, with CA – K1, K2tog, K6, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6, with CA – K1, K2tog, K6, with CB – K1, K2tog, K6*, rep from * to * once (96 sts rem)

Row 4: *CB – P8, with CA – P8*, repeat from * to * 5 times

Row 5: S1, *with CA – K1, K2tog, K5, with CB – K1, K2tog, K5*, rep from * to * 5 times (84 sts rem)

Row 6: *CB – P7, with CA – P7*, repeat from * to * 5 times

Row 7: S1, *with CA – K1, K2tog, K4, with CB – K1, K2tog, K4*, rep from * to * 5 times (72 sts rem)

Row 8: *CB – P6, with CA – P6*, repeat from * to * 5 times

Row 9: S1, *with CA – K6, with CB – K6*, rep from * to * 5 times

Row 10: *with CA – P6, with CB – P6*, rep from * to * 5 times

Rows 11 – 18: rep rows 9 and 10, 4 times

Using Basic BO, *BO 6 stitches with CA, cut CA leaving enough to weave in, twist CA with next CB, BO 6 stitches with CB, cut CB leaving enough to weave in, twist CB with next CA*, rep from * to * 5 times to the end. Pull last strand through last stitch. With tapestry needle, join the last stitch to the first and sew close the first and last stitches where there are holes.

Weave in ends.

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