Dec 10, 2017

Chunky Tube Scarf

By Ace Beorchia

LOOM: Zippy Loom (2) and straight connectors (2)

YARN: 2 skeins super-bulky yarn-32 yards (72g) each skein. Sample used Knit Picks Tuff Puff in Sky (Color A) and Silver (Color B), 1 skein of each color.

SIZE: 2.25″ W x  desired length. (Sample is 60″ long.)

Crank out those last minute Christmas gifts with this super quick knit! This pattern is perfect for the kids AND adults in your life.

ABBREVIATIONS

k= knit  sts=stitches

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 8 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Row 1-5: k to end of row in color A.

Row 6-10: k to end of row in color B.

(Note: To simplify switching colors, after completing the last stitch on row 5, pull the scarf taut through the center of the loom and begin row 6 with color B (without cutting color A). Make sure the working strand from color A remains inside the tube as rows 6-10 are worked in color B. When starting row 11 [or the first row of any color switch], tighten both working strands and work the stitches using the opposite color. Continue this process at each change in colors to prevent loose ends.)

Rep Rows 1-10 ten times, or until item measures desired length from cast on row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Attach 5” tassels to the end of both sides of the scarf.

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Dec 6, 2017

Silver Bells Clutch

Design by Renita Harvey

Enjoy the holiday parties with bells on!  This small clutch is just big enough for money, cards, and lipstick.  It is always handy hanging on your wrist.

Using both single and double knitting, this small purse can be created very quickly and makes a great gift as well.

LOOM:  Rotating Double Knit Loom

YARN:   64 yds 4/worsted weight yarn and 30 yds 2/fine weight yarn, Lion Brand Landscapes Yarn in Lake Clark and Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour Yarn in Platinum used in sample

NOTIONS:  Loom tool, tapestry needle. snaps (optional)

GAUGE:  n/a

SIZE:  7.5″ long x 3″ tall

ABBREVIATIONS

KKnit – e-wrap knit stitch is not recommended

PPurl

COCast on

BO:  Bind off

CA:  Color A – Blue

CB:  Color B – Silver

R:  Row

W&T:  Wrap and turn by lifting the stitch and wrapping the peg from back to front

Rep:  Repeat

Pattern Notes

Use 1 strand of the 4/worsted weight yarn.

Use 2 strands held together as 1 of the 2/fine weight yarn.

Do not cut the yarn when changing between colors.  Drop the yarn not being used and pick it up when needed again.

When changing colors in the middle of the row, twist the 2 yarns around each other once to prevent holes in the work.

Closure Flap is worked sideways.

INSTRUCTIONS

Purse

Using CA, CO 26 peg sets with stockinette stitch weave in double knit

Work 30 rows of criss cross stitch pattern found HERE

BO

Closure Flap

Using CA, CO 12 pegs in single knit.

R1-4:  K12

R5:  K6, add CB, continuing with CB, K6

R6: (short row) P5, W&T

R7: (short row) K5

R8: (short row) P5, W&T

R9: (short row) K5

R10:  P6, K6

R11:  P6, K6

R12: (short row) P5, W&T

R13: (short row) K5

R14: (short row) P5, W&T

R15: (short row) K5

R16:  P6, drop CB, pick up CA, K6

R17-20: Continuing with CA, K12

R21:  K6, add CB, continuing with CB, K6

Rep R6-21, 3 times

Rep R6-20, one more time

BO

 

Wrist Strap

Work a 2 peg i-cord for approximately 10”.

 

Assembly

Fold the Purse part in half bring the CO and BO edges together.

Seam the sides.

Seam the top of the Closure Flap to the back of the Purse.

Fold the Wrist Strap in half and sew the ends on the inside of the top corner of the Purse.

Add snaps to the inside of the Closure Flap if desired.

Weave in ends.

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Dec 3, 2017

Nubes Scarflette

LOOM: Zippy Loom (3) and connectors (2)

YARN: 50 yards of super bulky yarn. Sample used Loops and Threads Chunky in GL322 (5.2oz/150g | 27 yds/25m)

NOTIONS: Tapestry needle, row counter (optional). Decorative button

GAUGE: 4sts x 4 rows=2 inches

SIZE: 30″ L x 8″ wide (at smallest point) 11″ (at widest point). 

A less than 2-hour knit! Grab your Zippy loom and knit this quick knit! Stay warm and cozy in the Nubes Scarflette.

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit

p=purl

st(s)=stich(es)

CO=Cast on (Sample used the ewrap cast on and then the tightening CO technique to clean up the edge)

Note: to cast on at the beginning of the row, you can ewrap the empty peg.

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble the three Zippy looms together. You will cast on the furthest peg to the left; the first 4 pegs will be empty.

CO 8sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 2x

*Next row: CO 1 st at the beg of row, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from * 3x more (12 pegs have stitches now).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep last 2 rows: 7 more times (total of 14 more rows).

**Next row: Move stitch from first peg to the second peg, k to end (1 st decreased).

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** 3x more (8 pegs have stitches on them).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Add a button (maybe two) to secure the two ends of the scarflette close at the front.

 

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Nov 26, 2017

Holiday Tree Garland

Designed by Renita Harvey

Holidays always include decorations.  The best decorations are ones that are handmade with love. Deck the halls with this festive tree garland that is worked as one piece and goes on as long as you have time and patience to make it.  The connecting cord is worked on the outside loom while the trees are worked in double knit. Five cheerful charts with skill levels ranging from beginner to medium depending on which chart is chosen is provided to pick and choose from to create your own holiday cheer.

LOOM:  Rotating’ Double Knit Loom

YARN:  4 weight 100% acrylic yarn, yds vary depending on number of trees, Lion Brand Heartland in Katmai and Everglades, Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour (2 strands used as 1) in Gold, Red Stone, and Topaz used in the sample

NOTIONS:  Loom tool, crochet hook, tapestry needle

GAUGE:  not important

SIZE:  each tree 3” wide x 6” tall, entire garland with 12 trees as shown is 61.5” long

ABBREVIATIONS

CO – Cast On

 BO – Bind Off

SW- Stockinette Weave

 Sts – Stitches

PATTERN NOTES

Use 1 strand of 4 worsted weight yarn.

Use 2 strands together as 1 of 2 fine weight yarn.

Always insert the crochet hook in the stitch in the same direction in order to keep the bind off from getting twisted.

The chain is worked in single knit on the outside loom.  Trees are worked in double knit.

Sample worked with 12 trees.  Work as many or few trees with whichever charts desired.

Read chart from bottom to top and from left to right.  Work green in stockinette weave.  Work other colors in back to back weave unless the entire row is worked in the same color then work in SW.

Use ends to tie or otherwise secure garland.

If longer cords are desired on each end, work more pegs for the cord at the beginning and end of the project.

Tip:  Print off charts.  Mark off each row when worked for ease of reading.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Cord

Leaving a 6″ tail, CO the outside loom in single knit with grey using the chain CO method for 25 pegs.

 

Begin the chain cast on by placing the slip knot on the first peg.

This picture is from the front of the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn around back of the next peg.  Wrap around the crochet hook and back around the front of the peg.  Wrap the working yarn around the hook.  Pull the new loop through.

This picture is from the back of the pegs being cast on.

 

 

 

Pull the new loop behind the next peg.  Bring the working yarn to the front of the peg.

This picture is from the back of the pegs being cast on.

 

 

 

Pegs cast on.

 

 

 

BO 15 pegs starting with the end stitch using the crochet BO method.

 

 

 

To bind off, place the loop from the first peg on the crochet hook.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the loop from the next peg on the hook so there are 2 loops on the hook.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the second loop through the first loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat for each peg making a cord.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the last stitch has been bound off,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

place back on the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Tree 

CO 3 sts with green in double knit SW over the next 3 peg.  There will be 2 stitches on each peg on the outside rail and 1 stitch on each peg on the inside rail.

 

 

 

Place slip knot on the first peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap with the SW for 3 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Return wrap so pegs have wraps on the front and back pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit over the outside rail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap the 3 pegs in SW.  Knit over both rails.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue following desired chart.

Increase as follows when indicated on charts.

First BO the next cord stitch leaving an empty peg between the double knit work and the cord stitches.

 

 

Lift the loop from the previous stitch that is behind the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Move it over to the next empty peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Increase the front peg in the same manner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Move stitch over to empty peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Work the other side in the same manner on the back peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then the front peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the new stitch on the next empty peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Each increase is worked on both sides increasing the work by 2 stitches.

When bottom of the tree is reached, BO as follows leaving 5 stitches for tree trunk/gift:

Place the loops from the back pegs on the last 4 stitches on each end on the corresponding front pegs.

Knit over so there are only 1 loop on each peg.

BO using the crochet BO method starting the end stitch working to the middle.  Repeat on the other side.

Leaving 5 stitches.

When tree trunk/gift is finished, BO as follows:

Place the loops from the back rail on the corresponding pegs on the front rail.

Knit over so there are only 1 loop on each peg.

Starting on the end opposite the working yarn, work the crochet BO method until all loops are off the pegs.  Pull the working yarn through the last loop to secure.

*Work the cord by CO 23 more pegs, finish the cord by BO 15 pegs, then work the next tree.

Continue by repeating from * until number of trees or width is achieved.

Work the cord for 13 more stitches.

Cut working yarn leaving a 6″ tail.  Pull tail through last stitch to finish.

Weave in ends.

 

Sample worked with trees in the following order:

  • Chart 1
  • Chart 2
  • Chart 3
  • Chart 4
  • Chart 1
  • Chart 5
  • Chart 5
  • Chart 1
  • Chart 4
  • Chart 3
  • Chart 2
  • Chart 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 Comment

  • Dear Renita,

    I love it !

    But i have no idea how to do do the fair isle,
    im afraid it will all fall apart, when i make this..

    greetings Mickey

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Nov 20, 2017

Welcome Winter Mittens

Brrr, it is cold outside! Knit yourself a cozy pair of mittens to keep you warm this winter. 

 

LOOM: KB Sock Loom 2

YARN: Red Heart Classic in Paddy Green 380 yards.

NOTIONS: Tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 4 stitches and 6 rows =1″

SIZE: Child & Adult.

ABBREVIATIONS

K= knit stitch
Ewk= ewrap knit stitch
P= purl stitch
Sts= stitches

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 30 (40) pegs clockwise, prepare to work in the round. Adjust the number of rows for pattern to ensure proper fit.

Rows 1-14:
For Child: (k1,p1) repeat for row
For Adult: (k2,p2) repeat for row

Rows 15-19: ewrap knit row

Row 20: (skip 5 sts, bring up 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 21-25: ewrap knit row

Row 26: (bring up 5 sts, skip 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 27-31: ewrap knit row

Row 32: (skip 5 sts, bring up 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Thumb:
For child use pegs 1-5 (ewk 25 rows).
For adult use pegs 1-8 (ewk 30 rows).
End back at peg 1.

Rows 33-37: ewrap knit row

Row 38: (bring up 5 sts, skip 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 39-43: ewrap knit row

Row 44: (skip 5 sts, bring up 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 45-49: ewrap knit row

Row 50: (bring up 5 sts, skip 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 51-55: ewrap knit row

Row 56: (skip 5 sts, bring up 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 57-61: ewrap knit row

Row 62: (bring up 5 sts, skip 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 63-67: ewrap knit row
End for child, continue for adult.

Row 68: (skip 5 sts, bring up 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 69-73: ewrap knit row

Row 74: (bring up 5 sts, skip 5 sts) repeat
Ewrap knit row.

Rows 75-79: ewrap knit row

Bind off using the gather bind off method
and weave in yarn ends. Sew up each side of thumb. Set stitches by gently tugging on the mitten.

2 Comments

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Nov 10, 2017

Blue Reeds Cable Hat

If you love cables in double knit, try this snazzy ‘ready for winter’ hat.  Four cable sections of two cables each. Knit on the ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom

Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, set for double knit.

Stitches:  Rib, Cable Twist

Yarn:  Patons Shetland Chunky, 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool.  Hand wash and lay flat to dry.  Chunky #5 weight.  Color used is 78742 True Peacock.  1 skein or a total of 125 yds.  To make a deeper hat, purchasse 2 skeins of Patons Shetland Chunky.

Medium Blue, 8 yds for PomPoms, or any accent color desired. Sample worked with 3 yarns of similar color and Medium blue.

Notions:  Knit hook, crochet hook, loom double hook (optional), tapestry needle, and stitch markers (4 colored rubber bands work well)

Size:  Hat fits average adult and is 8.5” deep.

Gauge:  4 rounds=1″

 

Abbreviations

St (sts)=stitch (stitches)   aprox=approximately  Rnd(s)=round(s)

Hat Design:

Hat is worked in Rib Stitch. Total of 32 rounds unless deeper hat is desired. Each rib is 2 sts.  Cables consist of 8 stitches or 4 sets of Ribs.  There is a total of 4 Cable sections in hat.

Break down…

  1. Work Twist #1 on all cables and work round.
  2. Rib stitch (3 rounds)
  3. Work Twist #2 on all cables and work round.
  4. Rib Stitch (3 rounds)

Place colored rubber band on each set of 8 sts cables before beginning.  There are 4 of these sections. Sequence:  4st, 8 st cable, 6st, 8 st cable, 4 st, 8 st cable, 6 st, 8 st cable.  Place one rubber band around pegs for each 8 st cable, for markers.

#1 Twist: Each cable design consists of 4 ribs or 8 sts.  Be sure to pick up the correct stitches to keep the ribs consistent.  Twist only the sts on the outer loom.  Place markers or rubber band on each set of 8 sts.

Working pegs 1-4. Lift first 2 sts, 1 and 2 (one rib) and hold on double hook. With another hook, move sts 3 and 4 onto pegs 1 and peg 2.   Now, place st 1 and 2 from double hook onto peg 3 and peg 4.

 

Working pegs 5-8. Do another twist (2 ribs).  Then repeat the process on all sets of 8 sts marked with rubber bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

#2 Twist:  Start with 2nd rib.  You will be twisting the stitches in the opposite direction.

Working pegs 1-4. Lift the 2 sts on pegs 3 and peg 4 and hold on double hook. Move sts 1 and 2 onto pegs 3 and peg 4.  Now, place sts from double hook onto pegs 1 and 2.

 

 

 

 

 

Working pegs 5-8.  Lift sts 7 and 8 with double hook.  Move sts 5 and 6 to peg 7 and peg 8.  Now place sts from double hook onto pegs 5 and peg 6.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat this process on all sets of 8 sts marked with rubber bands.

Finished Twist #2

 

Hints:  Work in loose tension especially the row before each twist row.

Work hook over on inner loom first as this loosens tension.  Then, work the hook over on the outer loom.

 

 

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast On all 52 pegs to work in the round in Rib stitch.  Lay anchor yarn and allow ends to dangle below the looms.

Rnds 1-6:  Work in Rib stitch for the brim of hat.

Rnd 7:  Work Twist #1 cable on all 4 cable sections (8 sts each).  Weave the round in rib stitch over all pegs including the cable twists and hook over.

Rnd 8-9-10:  Rib stitch

Rnd 11:  Twist #2 cable on all 4 cable sections.  Work the rnd in rib stitch.

Rnd 12-13-14:  Rib stitch

Rnd 15:  Twist #1 cable on all 4 cable sections.  Work rnd in rib stitch.

Rnd 16-17-18:  Rib stitch

Rnd 19:  Twist #2 cable on all 4 cable sections.  Work rnd in rib stitch.

Rnd 20-21-22:  Rib stitch

Rnd 23:  Twist #1 cable on all 4 cable sections.  Work rnd in rib stitch.

Rnd 24-25-26:  Rib Stitch

Rnd 27:  Twist #2 cable on all 4 cable sections.  Work rnd in rib stitch.

Rnd 28-29-30-31-32:  Rib stitch

Bind Off using Rib Bind Off method: Maintain a yarn tail of aprox 12-14”.  Keep the 2 rib sts together.  Place st 1 on st 2 as if to do decrease.  This needs to be the 2 sts of one rib.  Do this all around the loom on both looms.  You will have every other peg with 2 loops.  Lift bottom over top so that there is just one loop on every other peg. Now, bring the loops from inner loom to outer loom so that there are again 2 loops on every other peg on outer loom.  Use tapestry needle and yarn tail to work around the loom and pick up the loops on the pegs, so that hat is free of the loom, and all loops are secure on the yarn.  Lift hat off loom.  Draw up the top of hat.  Go around the top of hat a 2nd time to secure a snug closure.  Knot the yarn, and weave in ends.

Bind off at Anchor yarn:  With the crochet hook, pick up both loops of one rib at yarn tail.  Pull one thru the other.  Pick up next loop of next rib, and pull one closest to hook thru the other.  Do this loosely around entire brim of hat.  Once complete, knot last loop with yarn tail and weave in ends.  Gently pull out the anchor yarn.

Finish hat with a happy big pompom.  Use some different yarns of shades of blue or peacock blue and maybe some different weights.  Wrap about 40 times around cardboard.  Tie the pompom, cut and trim.  Tie to top of your hat for a fun look.

1 Comment

  • Great supportive photos! Thank you!!!!!

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Nov 6, 2017

Ripples & Ribs Stitch, Stitchology 38

Front Side Ripples & Ribs

 

This is a stitch that is full of loft, texture, and lines, both straight and wavy.  The best  part of this new stitch is that it is completely reversible, with its vertical lines trailing between sections of texture along the front side, and lovely undulating ripples showing horizontally across the back side.  Feel free to use this stitch on anything for which both sides will be featured, such as scarves, blankets, and even reversible hats!

Back Side Ripples & Ribs

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviations

K,k: knit

P,p: purl

WY: working yarn

S1, s1: slip one stitch (simply skip this peg while carrying the working yarn behind the peg)

rep: repeat.

 

Chart Key for Repeating Pattern Rows

 Ripples & Ribs Repeating Pattern 

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

Repeating Pattern for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 6.  Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *s1, k1, p1, s1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 2: *p2, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 3: *s1, p2, rep from * to end.

Row 4: *p1, k3, p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 5: *s1, k2, rep from * to end.

Row 6:  *k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, rep from * to end.

Row 7: Repeat Row 3.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Row 9: *s1, p1, k1, s1, k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 10: k all sts.

Rep rows 1-10 for desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 6):

Round 1: *s1, k1, p1, s1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Round 2: *k1, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 3: *s1, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 4: *k1, p1, k3, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 5: *s1, k2, rep from * to end.

Round 6:  *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Round 7: Repeat Row 3.

Round 8: Repeat Row 2.

Round 9: *s1, p1, k1, s1, k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 10: k all sts.

Rep rounds 1-10 for desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

  • Hi Bethany, I just watched the video on the new Ripples & Ribs stitch and I absolutely love it. Can you tell me what cast on and bind off you used please and thank you.

    Corry

  • I’m so glad you like the stitch, Corry! 🙂 I pretty much always use the Chain Cast On and the Basic Bind Off for all my projects. They look very similar to each other, so provide nicely matched edges.

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Oct 29, 2017

Eydis Scarflette

 As the crisp mornings come to us, the yearning for something soft and snuggly around the neck beckons us to grab our looms and create!

LOOM:  His & Her Sock Looms, Purple, 64 pegs.
YARN:  450 yrds extra fine merino wool fingering weight yarn. Sample used Araucania in Huesco, color 7.
NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional). 3 small buttons, size 7/16” (11mm)
GAUGE:  not relevant for this project.
SIZE:  approx 9” wide x 31” long

ABBREVIATIONS

p=purl

k=knit stitch (may use the u-stitch)

yo=yarn over

k2tog=A right slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 1 and hold it. Move stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Place the loop you are holding back on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop. *Note: usually, you move this loop over to peg 2 to leave peg 1 empty to create a yarn over.

ssk=A left slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop.

 

NOTES

The stitch pattern repeats over 18 stitches (18 pegs). The first 5 pegs and last 5 pegs will always be in garter stitch. The stitch pattern repeats 3 times in the middle 54 pegs. A stitch pattern breakdown is provided at the end of the pattern. Recommend to try out the stitch pattern first before embarking on the project.

Chart provided if you prefer to work from a chart. Chart shows the stitch pattern over 18 pegs and from Row 1-Row 12 of the stitch pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

Edging

Cast on 64 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

**Row 1: k to end. Note: Row 1 should be in a right to left direction (clockwise around the loom).

Row 2: p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 3 more times.

Body

Row 1, 2: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4: p5, k to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 5: k5, *k2tog 3 times, [yo, k1]6x, ssk 3 times, rep from * to last 5 sts, k5

Row 6: p5, k to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 7, 9, 11: k to end of row.

Row 8, 10, 12: p to end of row.*

Rep from ** to ** until item measures 27” inches from cast on edge.

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block to measurements.

Secure 3 buttons along the side of the scarf. See picture below for placement.

How to do Row 5

To facilitate the stitch pattern breakdown, we will concentrate on the 18 stitches of the lace stitch pattern. The instructions below will start on peg 6 of your loom. On Row 5, the lace row, the first 5 pegs are knitted. The stitch pattern begins on Peg 6—for the purpose of this demonstration, peg 6 will be called peg 1.

  • Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Two loops on peg 2. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1.
  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Two loops on peg 4. Knit peg 4. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 2.
  • Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Two loops on peg 6. Knit peg 6. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 3.
  • Pegs 4, 5, and 6 are empty.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 5.
  • Move loop from peg 8 to peg 7.
  • Ewrap peg 4, knit peg 5.
  • Ewrap peg 6, knit peg 7.
  • Ewrap peg 8, knit peg 9.
  • Remove loop from peg 18 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 17 over to peg 18. Place loop you are holding back on peg 18.
  • Remove loop from peg 16 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 15 over to peg 17. Place loop you are holding on peg 17.
  • Remove loop from peg 14 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 13 over to peg 16. Place loop you are holding on peg 16.
  • Move loop from peg 12 to peg 15.
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 13.
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11.
  • Ewrap peg 10, knit peg 11.
  • Ewrap peg 12, knit peg 13.
  • Ewrap peg 14, knit peg 15.
  • Knit to the end of the row (the pegs that have 2 loops on them (pegs 16, 17 and 18) treat both loops as one loop).

Special note: pegs 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 should have been ewrapped (yarn over).

Repeat these instructions every 18 pegs. I recommend getting masking tape and marking your knitting loom (on the masking tape) 1-18, three times—the stitch pattern repeats itself 3 times around the loom. Pegs 1-5 are not part of the stitch pattern, pegs 60-64 are also not part of the stitch pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Oct 23, 2017

Spa Cloth

The holidays are around the corner, this lovely washcloth makes the perfect hostess gift. Knit up a set of three and you have the perfect gift for your next gathering. 

LOOM: KB Premium Round Loom. Any loom from set can be used.

YARN: Sample used Peaches and Cream stripes. (1 ball makes 2)

NOTIONS: Tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 4 stitches and 5 rows to 1″ of pattern, but not relevant for the project.

SIZE: 7” wide x 7″ tall.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ew= ewrap knit stitch
P= purl stitch
K2tog= knit two stitches together
Yo= yarn over (carry yarn in front of peg, do not ewrap)

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 28 pegs counter clockwise, prepare to work in a flat panel. Skip the first stitch in every row to create a nice even edge.

Row 1: purl row

Row 2: ewrap knit row
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: p3, yo, k2tog (ewk 4, yo, k2tog) p3, ewk1

Row 10: ewrap knit row

Row 11: p3, k2tog, yo (ewk 4, k2tog, yo) p3, ewk1

Row 12: ewrap knit row

Repeat rows 9-12 seven times.

Row 49: purl row

Row 50: ewrap knit row
Repeat rows 49 & 50 for a total of 8 rows.

Bind off using the basic bind off method and weave in yarn ends. Set stitches by gently tugging on the edges.

2 Comments

  • How pretty awesome job on it. Will be making some. Thank you

  • I really like this….. I do think I have found a grand idea for some friends Holiday gifts…. I have two little girls that will love them

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Oct 20, 2017

Alternate Rib Hat

Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, set up for double knitting.

Yarn:  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal, 100% Merino Wool, worsted weight, 1skein.  Color ‘Canary’ in sample.

Stitches: Rib, Alternate Rib

Notions:  Knit hook, Crochet hook, one stitch marker (optional)

 Size:  Average Adult

Pattern notes:  Hat brim is knit in the rib stitch. The rest of the hat is knit in the rib and alternating rib stitch. Work by alternating these 2 stitches, round 1 and round 2 until hat length complete.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the stitch marker on beginning peg, if desired, or use arrow. Cast On in stockinette stitch.  Lay anchor yarn around stitches between the looms.

Rounds 1-8:  Work rib stitch until end of round.

Round 9: Work alternate rib, until end of round.

Round 10:  Work rib stitch until end of round.

Repeat rounds 9 and 10 until you have a total length of approximately

8-8.5” from brim edge.  Complete the knitting with a row of rib stitch.

See photos below for weaving patterns for the Rib and Alternate Rib Stitch. The blue yarn show the ribbing, and yellow yarn shows the alternate rib.

 

             RIB STITCH

Beginning of round one

End of round one

End of round two

              ALTERNATE RIB

Beginning of the round one

End of round one

Once the knit is desired length, you are ready to bind off.  Move loops from inner loom to outer loom so that each peg on outer loom has 2 loops, and the inner loom is empty, hook over, bottom loop over top.  Now, one loop remains on each peg on outer loom.

Cut the working yarn coming from the project, leaving about 16-20 inches of yarn to use for the gathering process.

Thread the yarn tail through the eye of a tapestry needle. Pass the needle up and under the first stitch on the loom. Remove the stitch from the peg and leave it on the yarn tail. Go to the next peg and remove the stitch from the peg with the needle. This stitch will also rest on the yarn tail. Continue working around the loom until all the stitches have been removed and are secured on the yarn tail.

Gently pull on the yarn tail, cinching the top of the item closed. Pass the needle through the center of the gathered stitches and turn the hat inside out. Do a few securing stitches. Knot your yarn and weave in the tail.

Bind off the cast on stitches at anchor yarn with crochet hook for a completed hat.

 

 

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Oct 16, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Read A Chart?

 

 

 

 

 

Everybody loves a video.  Lots of people only use videos when making items because they prefer to not read patterns.  But  learning to read patterns is great because it opens up lots more projects to make since not every pattern has a complete video tutorial.

But wait…  There’s more.

Patterns actually come in 3 formats.

The first format is videos.  But like I mentioned, not all patterns are available in video format.

The second format is written patterns.  Patterns in written form are like reading code.  Words are abbreviated and sections are written as repeats so that the pattern itself is not the length of a novel written by Diana Gabaldon or George R. R. Martin…  But putting men from the Scottish Highlands and fear of long winters aside for the moment, it can get rather lengthy when a pattern is written out in full, and it really is like learning to read another language which means you do have to put forth the effort to learn to read the code.  If you are looking for more on reading a pattern, check out Loom FAQs:  How Do I Read A Pattern?

And the last format is charts.  While most patterns are not fully “written” in charts in knitting, the stitch pattern itself is.  Once a person can read both patterns and charts, there is nothing they cannot make.

Why EXACTLY are charts so great?

Charts are wonderful ways of conveying the stitch patterns without words.  It is truly universal.  Like mathematics, knitting charts can be read by anyone no matter what language they speak or read.  But there are other ways that charts are great as well.

For people who loom knit, we need to convert written needle patterns in order to make them on looms unless they are written in the round.  But when reading charts, needle knitters have to convert or change the wrong side rows while loom knitter do not.  Charts can be worked exactly as they appear row for row.  This is why I love stitch pattern books for knitting that contain charts.  And this is why all loom knitters should learn to read charts.  Then we don’t need special loom knitting stitch pattern books.  We can use the same book that the needle knitters use.

So how are charts read?

Before we get into how to read a chart, let’s discuss what the chart is.  A chart is just a grid of boxes where each box represents a stitch on a row or round.  It looks like graph paper.

While most charts for stitch patterns are made of boxes that are square like on regular graph paper, knitting stitches are not square.  Each knit stitch is shorter than it is wide.  Or wider than it is tall.  This is why there are more rows in an inch vertically than there stitches in an inch horizontally.  This is the reason that knitting graph paper for charting pictures or words is not made of squares.  These graphs have cells that are rectangular.  If you chart a picture with graph paper made of squares, the finished knitted picture will be short and fat when compared to the picture desired.  But when using charts to depict stitch patterns and not pictures, square cells are most commonly used.

Now we can discuss how to read a chart…

The following chart is the herringbone stitch pattern from the Stitchology column written by Bethany Daily here on the KB blog.  This stitch was the first in the Stitchology series.  If you haven’t been keeping up with Bethany’s column, then you are missing out on some fabulous stitch patterns.  And guess what?  She even covers reading stitch charts as well in the herringbone stitch post as well.  Maybe between us both, we will get the word out on how to read charts…  Here is the chart:

 

 

 

 

But the chart alone means nothing without the key.  In books, the key will not be found with every stitch chart.  It will most often be found in one of two places in the book.  Either in the front or the back.  Therefore, if you see a chart but not the key, you will be able to find it elsewhere.  If you cannot find it, then it is like looking for a treasure without a map.

PLEASE NOTE:

I do need to clarify something here.  While all knitting charts are shown from the right side, some needle stitch pattern books will have 2 keys for the symbols.  They will have a right side key and a wrong side key.  In these books, the wrong side key will be the same symbol as the right side but the opposite stitch for flat panels.  So it will have the symbol for knit on the right side and the same symbol for purl for the wrong side.

Also, when using needle stitch charts that do not have 2 keys, it will indicate the stitch for the right side and the stitch for the wrong side.

Loom knitters will ALWAYS use the right side stitch.  That is the part to remember.  RIGHT SIDE STITCH ONLY!

 

Here is the Chart Key:

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see in the above chart, the rows are numbered from the bottom to the top.

The cast on is not listed on the chart because the cast on is not considered a row.  It is simply the foundation of loops that all the rows sit on top of.

Also you need to remember that this is for the stitch pattern itself.  Not the complete pattern in most cases.  Therefore if there is a border at the bottom or the sides, those will need to be done before working these rows.

But if you are working a pattern that has a chart, you will need to cast on in certain direction ALWAYS when reading charts or patterns.  The reason is you will be working each stitch as it appears on the chart.  Stitch 1 on row 1 will always appear on the bottom right hand corner of the chart so that row 1 is worked from right to left.

This is the reason you will need to cast on from left to right when casting on for a flat panel so that you will be ready to start row 1 from right to left.

When casting on in the round, you will cast on from right to left so that you will be ready to work from right to left when starting round 1.

Now let’s look at the rows themselves on the chart.  On the right you see the odd rows numbered and on the left the even rows are numbers.  This is make the chart easier to read.  Especially for flat panels.  After working row 1 from right to left, you then work row 2 from left to right.  And there is the number 2 for the second row on the left hand side making it easier to find once you have worked you way across row 1.

But what exactly does each square mean?

The key tells us what stitch to use.  Each square represents a stitch.  This stitch pattern only uses knit and purl stitches.  Therefore there are only 2 types of squares.  In other words, this is a simple stitch pattern if you can keep up with which stitch goes where.

The empty squares do not mean that there isn’t a stitch.  It means those are the knit stitches.

The squares with the single dot in the middle are the purl stitches.

When the stitch pattern is more complicated, the symbols and where they are placed become more complex as well.  This is why it is better to start off with a simple stitch pattern when starting to read charts.

For most charts that are included with patterns, the charts only show just a certain number of stitches.  The number of stitches will vary chart to chart since these are the number of stitches that will be repeated.  For the herringbone stitch, the stitch is a repeat of 10 stitches.  If you are making something larger than 10 stitches, you will need to make the item with a multiple of 10 then add the number of stitches for the side borders on a flat panel.  If working in the round, it will just be the multiple of 10.

Now to start reading our chart.  When you start with the first row of the stitch pattern, you should be on the right side of the loom working to the left.  For the herringbone example, you will knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches.  Then you will repeat those for however many repeats you are working.  For 30 stitches total, you will repeat it another 2 times for 3 times total.  For 100 stitches total, you will repeat for 9 times making it a total of 10 times.

Now for a flat panel, you are on the left side of the work getting ready to work from left to right on row 2.  You will follow the stitches on the chart from left to right this time.  Row 2 will be knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches before repeating.

If you are working in the round, you will just continue working from right to left and follow the chart from right to left as well.  Round 2 would then be knit 2 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch before repeating.

Then on to row or round 3…  Hopefully you have the idea now of what will need to be done for row 3.  And also see how long it takes to write out a row stitch for stitch…

What would this chart look like written out?

Well if the herringbone pattern was written out in a pattern without a chart, it would be written as follows for the stitch pattern with the chart on the right side for comparison:

Abbreviations for our little demonstration:

K: knit

P: purl

Rep: repeat

For a flat panel:

Row 1: *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *

Row 2: *K1, P2, K3, P2, K2, rep from *

Row 3: *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *

Row 4: *P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, rep from *

For in the round:

Round 1:  *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *

Round 2:  *K2, P2, K3, P2, K1, rep from *

Round 3:  *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *

Round 4:  K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, rep from *

 

I hope this helps clear up any confusion charts may present.  But something I have learned over the years is the best way to learn something is to just do it.  If you make mistakes, don’t worry!  With yarn, just pull it out and try again.  It is ok to make mistakes.  It is how we learn.

Now it’s time to put the fear of charts aside, grab a ball of yarn, and tackle that pattern you have been wanting to make!  Happy loom knitting!

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Oct 15, 2017

Polemonium Hat

Designed by Renita Harvey

Love the Jacob’s Ladder technique in crochet but don’t know how to crochet?  Try the new method of chaining loops developed by Renita Harvey that achieves the same design feature on a stockinette background by knitting this hat! 

Amaze your friends and family with this fun hat that incorporates both the braided chain loops and color changes.  Changing the color after each round of chain loops gives the “ladder” a more visible appearance.  Or use a self-striping yarn with long color changes to avoid changing colors manually.  This hat is also a great pattern for school and team colors as well as seasonal color combinations. 

The Polemonium Hat is easier than it appears making it a great pattern for those wanting to up their loom knitting game.

Knit on the All-n-One Loom, the Polemonium Hat has a decreased crown bringing all the “ladders” or braids together at the top achieving a nice clean finish.

LOOM:  80 pegs used, small gauge loom. Sample was knit using the All-n-One Loom.

YARN:  180 yds medium worsted weight yarn, KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Colors Celestial, Gulfstream, Marina, Sky, and Mint 36 yds each color used in sample

NOTIONS:  Loom pick, stitch markers, paper clips, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 18 rows = 2”

SIZE:  Adult

ABBREVIATIONS

K:  knit

P:  purl

K2tog:  knit 2 together

Ch:  chain

CO:  cast On

BO:  bind Off

R:  round

Rep:  repeat

Dec:  decrease

CA:  Color A – Celestial

CB:  Color B – Gulfstream

CC:  Color C – Marina

CD:  Color D – Sky

CE:  Color E – Mint

SPECIAL STITCH

Chain:  knit same stitch the number of times listed.  Example:  Ch10 – knit the same stitch 10 times using the e-wrap knit stitch.

 PATTERN NOTES

Chain loops will be made on the inside of the hat.  Loops will be pushed though the eyelets made after the hat is off the loom.

 INSTRUCTIONS

Place stitch markers on pegs 1, 11, 21, 31, 41, 51, 61, and 71.  These are the pegs that the chain stitch will be worked.  Move the stitch marker with the stitch when working the decreases.

 With CA, CO 80 pegs and prepare to work in the round.

R1 – 5:  *K1, P1, rep from * around

R6:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R7 – 9:  Drop CA, add CB, K all

R10:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R11 – 13:  Drop CB, add CC, K all

R14:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R15 – 17:  Drop CC, add CD, K all

R18:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R19 – 21:  Drop CD, add CE, K all

R22:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R23 – 25:  Drop CE, pick up CA, K all

R26:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R27 – 29:  Drop CA, pick up CB, K all

R30:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R31 – 33:  Drop CB, pick up CC, K all

R34:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R35 – 37:  Drop CC, pick up CD, K all

R38:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R39 – 41:  Drop CD, pick up CE, K all

R42:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R43 – 63:  Rep R23 – 42, once

R63 – 65:  Drop CE, pick up CA, K all

Decrease Crown:

Note:  Adjust loom with each decrease round so there are no empty pegs.

  • Place all the stitches on a piece of scrap yarn in a contrasting color approximately 20” long before working the decrease round.
  • Adjust the loom to the new peg count listed at the end of the decrease round.
  • Place the stitches back on the loom following the instructions for that row by placing 2 stitches on the peg for the K2tog and 1 stitch on each of the rest of the pegs. Make sure the stitch markers for the chain loops are moved to the new pegs as well.
  • Work the row as instructed.

R66: (Dec) *Ch10, K7, K2tog, rep from * around – 72 stitches

R67:  Cut CA leaving tail to weave in, pick up CB, K all

R68: (Dec) *K7, K2tog, rep from * around – 64 stitches

R69:  K all

R70: (Dec) *Ch10, K5, K2tog, rep from * around – 56 stitches

R71:  Cut CB leaving tail to weave in, pick up CC, K all

R72: (Dec) *K5, K2tog, rep from * around – 48 stitches

R73:  K all

R74: (Dec) *Ch10, K3, K2tog, rep from * around – 40 stitches

R75:  Cut CC leaving tail to weave in, pick up CD, K all

R76: (Dec) *K3, K2tog, rep from * around – 32 stitches

R77:  K all

R78: (Dec) *Ch10, K1, K2tog, rep from * around – 24 stitches

R79:  Cut CD leaving tail to weave in, pick up CE, K all

R80: (Dec) *K1, K2tog, rep from * around – 16 stitches (Note:  This will be the last time to decrease the loom.  Rows 81 – 83 will be worked skipping the empty peg by bringing the working yarn behind the peg.)

R81:  K all

R82:  *Move stitch on peg to the left of stitch marker over on to the peg with stitch marker, Ch5, rep from * around – 8 stitches

R83:  K all

Place each remaining stitch on a paper clip and remove from loom.

Cut working yarn leaving a tail 6” long for weaving in.

 

Finishing:

 

 

Loops are on the inside of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Push chain loops through the eyelets created by the chains so the loops are on the outside of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Braid each spoke by starting at the bottom loop, twist the loop,

 

 

 

 

 

 

then pull the loop above it through the bottom loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue by pulling the loop above through the loop below

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

until the top of the hat is reached and the last smaller loop is pulled through.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then pull the paper clip with the live stitch through the final chain loop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

leaving the paper clip on the stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thread yarn tail on tapestry needle and through each stitch.  Remove paper clips and gather.

Secure and weave in ends.

 

6 Comments

  • Very, very pretty Renita!

  • This is a fantastic design, Renita! Love it! ?

  • Can this pattern be made on the Rotating Board using 1 ring or even better both rings.
    Thanks

  • This is a very pretty and educational pattern. I tempted to go outside my basic stitches comfort zone.
    I’m going to start small, making a baby hat.
    Thank you for making this patter.

  • Thank you, Bethany!

  • Gail,
    This pattern is designed to be decreased at the top which is why it is written for the All-n-One loom. While it could be adapted to be made on the DKL, it couldn’t be decreased for the crown, and another way to finish off the braids would need to be devised. It really couldn’t be made with both rings on the DKL.

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Oct 8, 2017

Faire Isle Beanie

Finally, a warm, stylish beanie that will be equally stunning on 5th Avenue or at the high school football game! Fair Isle is a knitting technique that uses multiple strands of different colored yarn to create intricate knit patterns. This hat will quickly become a staple accessory in your wardrobe!

LOOM: ‘Premium’ Round Loom Set (Large, 80 peg loom)

YARN: Worsted Weight (#4)

Red Hearts Super Saver (100% Acrylic) used in sample

Color A: approximately 60 g/110 yds (Soft Navy used in sample)

Color B: approximately 20 g/37 yds (Charcoal used in sample)

SIZE: Adult Unisex

COMPLEXITY: Late beginner to early intermediate

ABBREVIATIONS

st(s): Stitch(es)

rnd: Round

ek: E-wrap knit stitch

rep: Repeat

INSTRUCTIONS

Because this pattern is worked in the round, the pattern may be slightly staggered by one row between the first and last stitches in the round. This is normal and should be expected.

Note: A chart is located at the bottom of the pattern for your convenience. If using the chart, starting from the bottom, repeat the chart 16 times until you reach the end of each row. Then move up to the next row. Refer to the pattern for instructions between rows.

Cast on 80 sts in color A, prepare to work in the round

 Rnd 1-21: ek80 in color A

The brim is created by bringing the cast on row stitches (the bottom row of the work on the loom) back onto the top of the pegs. You should now have two rows of yarn on your pegs (row 21 on the bottom of the pegs and the cast on row on the top of the pegs). Next, simply work row 21 over the cast on row. This will create the double-thick brim.

Rnd 22: *ek1 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek 3 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 23: *ek1 in color B, ek1 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek2 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 24-25: *ek3 in color A, ek2 in color B; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 26: rep rnd 23

 Rnd 27: rep rnd 22

 Rnd 28: *ek4 in color A, ek1 in color B, rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 29: *ek3 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek1 in color A, rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 30: rep rnd 28

 Rnd 31: rep rnd 29

 Rnd 32-33: ek80 in color A

 Rnd 34-36: *ek3 in color B, ek2 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 37-38: rep rnd 32

 Rnd 39-40: ek80 in color B

 Rnd 41-42: rep rnd 32

 Rnd 43-44: rep rnd 39

 Rnd 45-47: *ek3 in color A, ek2 in color B; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 48-50: rep rnd 39

 Rnd 51-55: rep rnd 32

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave in ends.

Finish by attaching a pompom in color B to the top of the hat.

 

CHART

(Click on chart to enlarge.)

Save

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Oct 2, 2017

Bobbles and Seed Stitch: Stitchology 37

This month is all about creating the classic look of bobbles! There are so many stitches that incorporate bobbles into their design that a column of stitch tutorials would be remiss not to include them. After playing with many different types of bobbles, I came up with a version that is nice and plump and provides that wonderful “pop” that they are famous for. The steps involved in creating these happy little bumps are broken down in written and video format, and the bobbles are then inserted into two repeating patterns for your enjoyment.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap, unless otherwise stated.

Abbreviations

K,k: knit

P,p: purl

KO: knit off (lift bottom loop(s) over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)

WY: working yarn

HH: half hitch (create a loop with WY by twisting in opposite way than when making an EW and place on peg. The WY will be coming from underneath the twist rather than on top.)

rep: repeat.

 

Chart Key for Repeating Pattern Rows

Steps to Create a Bobble (Bobbles can be worked going in either direction on the loom…Simply number the bobble pegs 1-3 in the order they are worked in the first bobble step.):

Step 1: k3

Step 2: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.

Step 3: HH onto peg 3, k peg 2, HH onto peg 1.

Step 4: (k3) repeat 3 times, will end on peg 3.

Step 5: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.

Step 6: reach down at the back side of the work and pull up the 3 loops from the base of the bobble that were knit in Step 1 and place them back onto pegs 1-3.

Step 7: WY will be coming from peg 2. K peg 3.  Continue with remainder of row.

Step 8: Knit next row of pattern, KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2 of bobble.

Here’s a video of just the steps to make a bobble:

 

Working Bobbles into a Basic Stitch

This basic stitch uses a multiple of 9 pegs x 9 rows. The bobble itself requires 3 pegs and is worked on Row 5 only. The extra pegs and rows around these 3 bobble pegs act as a buffer between the bobbles when repeated. The number of “buffer” pegs and rows can be adjusted as desired to meet the needs of the project.

(Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 9. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-4: k9

Row 5: k3, create bobble, k3.

Row 6: k4, k 2 loops as one on peg 5, k4.

Rows 7-9:  k9

 

Bobble & Seeds Repeating Pattern 

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 22—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

Working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 22. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-4: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.

Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Rows 10 & 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Rows 12-15: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Row 16: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Rows 21 & 22: Repeat Rows 10 & 11.

Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 22):

Rounds 1-4:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Round A:*k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Round B: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.

Round 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.

Rounds 6-9:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Round C: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.

Round D: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 10: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Round 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Rounds 12-15:  Repeat Rounds 6-9.

Round 16: *p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, k4, create bobble, k4, rep from * to end.

Rounds 17-20:  Repeat Rounds 1-4.

Round 21: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 22: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

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Oct 1, 2017

Zippy Fall Cowl Set

Fall is in the air, it is time to take out the Zippy and get zippying along! Start this fall off with this super quick and stylish Cowl and Fingerless mitt set.

LOOM:  Master Zippy Loom Set + 2 Zippy (28 pegs total)

YARN:  225 yards of Super Bulky weight 100% merino wool. 1.5 skeins Malabrigo Rasta in Pearl Tan.

NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

GAUGE: 6 sts x 5 rows=2 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  Fingerless mitts: 7.5 inches long. Cowl: 10 inches when laid flat.

ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy Master Set with the two additional Zippy Looms as shown in this picture.

 

 

 

Cast on 28 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Round 1: k to end of row.

Round 2: p to end of row.

Rep Round 1 and Round 2: 10 more times.

From this point forward, you will be working as a flat panel.

Next row: k to end row.

Next row: Decrease row–Place loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from peg 28 to peg 27. Only 26 pegs have stitches. P to end of row (treat the pegs with the two loops as if it was one loop, grab both loops and purl the peg).  Each Decrease Row, you will be decreasing by two stitches by moving the stitches from the outer edges to the inner pegs.

*Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: Decrease Row–Place loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from peg 27 to peg 26. Only 24 pegs have stitches. P to end of row (treat the pegs with the two loops as if it was one loop, grab both loops and purl the peg).

Repeat from * to * until 2 stitches remain.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block if necessary.

Fingerless Mitts

(make 2)

Cast on 15 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: k to end of row.

Row 11, 13, 15, 17: p to end of row.

Row 12, 14, 16, 18: k to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Seaming—use the mattress stitch to seam the cast on edge to bind off edge. As you seam, maintain the garter stitch ridges to the top of the hand

Mattress stitch seam 4 inches from the bottom up, leave a 1.5 inch opening, then continue to seam the top 2 inches.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block if necessary.

 

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Sep 23, 2017

Ribbing Stitch for Double Knit Loom

Knitting double knit in the round on the Double Knit Loom requires the regular double knit stitches to be reinvented to work with the circular shape. There has been some confusion concerning the wrap starting on the beginning peg, or not. Originally the Rib Stitch on the DKL was worked NOT starting on first peg, after the cast on. But this made row counting difficult, and didn’t make sense for many knitters.

We have revised the RIBBING STITCH in the round to work by coming back around to the beginning peg. This STITCH NOW STARTS ON BEGINNING PEG FOR EACH AND EVERY ROUND.  We are using the peg marked with the arrow on outer loom as the beginning peg.

Steps…

1. Wrap from beginning peg (peg 1) to peg 3 on inner loom.

2 Continue wrapping ‘every other peg’ until you wrap the peg across from the starting peg (starting peg marked with stitch marker). Skip the 2 pegs (marked with red arrows), wrap peg adjacent to the starting peg, then go to inner loom and wrap the consecutive peg. This will change your angle.

 

 

3. Then continue wrapping ‘every other’ peg.  You will be working in same direction, but at opposite angle.

4. When you end the round, the wrapping should look like photo below.

5. At this point, lay an anchor yarn around the stitches, between the looms, with yarn tails dangling below the looms.

6. Then repeat the process again starting with wrap around the starting peg on outer loom.  Once you have two rounds complete, hook over all pegs starting with outer loom.  Continue working as many rib rounds as desired or as pattern dictates, always starting on beginning peg.

2 Comments

  • I bought your sock loom the one that you can adjust by skidding the one piece it is plastic. I was watching a video on knitting a sock and the tool that was suppose to come with this loom is not the one I got with my loom. The other one looks like it is a lot Easter to use. Where can I buy one like that. It had an extra little hook on the end. Thank You.

  • Please contact us at info@knittingboard.com and send us a picture of the knitting tool you receive and we can confirm whether you received the correct knitting tool. We only have two knitting tools–one with a wooden handle and one with an orange handle; both have only one little hook.

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Sep 21, 2017

Loom FAQs: What Is A Provisional Cast On?

 

 

 

 

 

There are always so many questions in the loom knitting world on social media.  Why is my bind off so tight?  How I can match my bind off to my cast on?  What is waste yarn?  How do I cast on and still have live stitches for grafting?  

One of the more common problems in the world of loom knitting the getting the cast on and bind off to match.  Most people cannot get the tension on both ends to match due to the differences in the cast on and bind off methods.  But never fear.  There is a solution to that.

And while that one question at the first seems a bit off topic, all of the questions above do have the same answer.

That answer is using waste yarn to cast on.

What is waste yarn?

Waste yarn is just yarn of another color that is used to cast on and then used to knit the first few rows.

Why would I use waste yarn to cast on?

When waste yarn is used to cast on, the yarn that will then be used in the project can be added so that the waste yarn can be removed later.

Why would I want to remove the waste yarn?

While there are a lot of reasons to use waste yarn to cast on, there is only one main reason to remove the waste yarn after casting on.

That reason is to leave live stitches on the cast on end of the project.

What are “live stitches”?

Live stitches are the loops that are to be worked in knitting.  Generally speaking those are the stitches that are always on the pegs of the loom waiting to worked.  When binding off, those live stitches are being “closed” or ended so they will not run or unravel when the work is removed from the loom.

Why would I want live stitches on the cast on end?

There are a couple of very good reasons for wanting to have live stitches on the cast on end of a piece of work.

And both reason have to do with finishing the piece.

The first reason is so the work can then be placed back on the loom so that you can use the same bind off you used on the other end.  This is the best way to get both ends to match since they are worked in the exact same manner.

The second reason is so the cast on and bind off edges can be grafted together using the kitchener stitch to get a seamless join when making infinity scarves or other garments where you want to join but do not want a visible seam.

How do I work the provisional cast on so I get live stitches on the cast on edge to do with as my heart desires?

I am so very glad you asked!  Let’s get started!

Provisional Cast On

There are 2 things you will need when working a provisional cast on.  Well 1 thing definitely.  The other is just very highly recommended by yours truly in order to make your life easier and meaningful…

You will need waste yarn and a life line.  While both of those are just yarn, I would like to make certain recommendations first.

Waste Yarn 

When using waste yarn, you will want to use yarn that you will not be using again.  It does not need to be the same type of yarn you are using in the project.  If you are using high end yarn, please do not use the same for the waste yarn.  Why?  Well it IS called WASTE yarn for a reason.  You may be cutting it and most likely will not be able to reuse it so it becomes trash or waste.

I suggest using an inexpensive yarn that is a contrasting color.  You will want to be able to tell the difference between the waste yarn and the project yarn.

Lifeline

Life lines are just yarn in a different color as well.  But unlike waste yarn, you can reuse yarn that is used for lifelines.  Another suggestion is that the lifeline be a different color than the waste yarn AND the project.  This is so there is no confusion between the 3 different things.  I am one that tries my hardest to keep from being confused.  And my yarn is the one thing I have complete control over in my life.

If you are new to using lifelines in your work,  you can find more information in Loom FAQs  What Is a Lifeline?  The method that we will be doing here is adding the lifeline after the work is off the loom but the stitches that will be picked up are not the ones shown in the article.  More on that later.

Now let’s get started.

I have a loom, my project yarn which is the purple, my waste yarn which is the beige, and my lifeline which is orange.

First we will cast on with the waste yarn.  Doesn’t matter what cast on you use.  I suggest using the simplest and quickest which is the wrap cast on.

Now we will work about 6 rows of knit.  Doesn’t matter which knit stitch you use on this part.  It doesn’t need to match the rest of the work since we will be taking it off

Now we cut our waste yarn leaving a short tail.  It is finished for this project.

Add your project yarn in whatever manner you like when joining your yarn.

Here I have placed the slip knot on a neighboring peg so I can start knitting on peg 1.

The russian join is not a good one here since you still need that end.  You will want to leave a tail long enough to work whatever bind off or seaming technique you are planning on using when finishing the cast on edge later.

If you will be seaming with the kitchener stitch, leave a yarn tail about 1 and a half lengths of the pegs that are cast on.

If you plan on working the basic bind off, then you will want to leave a yarn tail at least 3 lengths of the pegs that are cast on.

You can simply put a slip knot on the first peg and then start working your pattern from here at row 1.

Or if you are like me and do not like knots in your work, just simply start row.  You do not need a knot or an anchor peg.  Just start knitting.  More on how to do that can be found in Loom FAQs:  Why Not Knots?

Continue until you are finished with your bind off on the other end.

Here you can see the work after it is off the loom

If you are wanting to graft the 2 ends together, simply place a second lifeline through the stitches on the loom and remove it.  Unless you will be adding the cast on edge to the bind off edge and binding them off together.  Then just leave it on the loom…

 

Now we will place the lifeline.  The lifeline will be placed in a different manner since we will be unraveling from the cast on end.  The loops are that need the lifeline are not the loops that are on the pegs which is why we didn’t place the lifeline as we went.  If the lifeline is placed through the stitches on the pegs, the lifeline will not go through the live stitches once the waste yarn is removed.  Sounds crazy, I know.  But just trust me on this.  When unraveling from the cast on end, the live stitches are between the pegs, not on them.

 

Turn the work over to see the back.

The first row where the project yarn can be seen are the stitches that will be picked up by the lifeline.

They are the ones at the bottom still in the beige stitches.

 

 

 

Thread the lifeline onto the tapestry needle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and run the needle through each of the loops until all are on the lifeline.

 

 

 

 

 

Since the lifeline has been placed, there is no need to fear dropped stitches.

Simply cut the work here on the waste yarn and then unravel the rest of the waste yarn until all that is left is the project with all the live stitches securely on the lifeline.

 

Or you can just pull the end tail of the waste yarn out across the piece so the waste yarn may be used again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now you are free to do whatever you please with those live stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

If you are wanting to bind off that end like the other end, simply put those stitches back on the loom and then bind off in the method of choice.

If you are wanting to bind off the cast on and bind off ends together, just place the stitches back on the loom over the stitches that are already on there by bring the work up through the middle of the loom making sure you do not catch the loom in the middle of the scarf.  Yes.  It has been done.  Yes.  I have seen it.

If you are wanting to graft the 2 ends together, proceed with whatever manner you choose whether it be the kitchener stitch on needles or putting the cast on end over the bind off end on the loom so that the kitchener stitch can be worked on the loom.  Both methods of working the Kitchener stitch can be found in Loom FAQs:  What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?

 

Well there you have it!  Waste yarn, the provisional cast on, and reasons why you would want live stitches on the cast on end.

Hope all your loom knitting projects have a happy ending!

2 Comments

  • This is sooooo helpful. Thank you for posting this and adding the detailed photos.

  • A very well written and photographed tutorial. I will definitely try this. Thanks for taking the time to wrie it!

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Sep 17, 2017

Lace Shawlette

The rotating loom mechanism makes the stitch pattern on this Lace Shawlette a breeze! Pick a self-striping yarn and let the nature of the yarn do the work for you! This shawlette makes the perfect accessory for the upcoming fall!

LOOM:  Double Knit Loom was used as a single sided rake, outside rail only, 51 pegs used.

YARN:  Approx 440 yds of worsted weight acrylic yarn. Sample used Lion Brand Landscapes in Boardwalk, 3 skeins. 

NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

GAUGE: Not relevant.

SIZE:  18 W x 68 L inches after blocking.

ABBREVIATIONS

ek=ewrap knit

p=purl

yo=yarn over. Ewrap the empty peg.

td=triple decrease. Over 3 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the middle, peg 3 on the left. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2, move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty, peg 2 has 3 loops on it, you will treat the 3 loops as one loop when working the peg, peg 3 is empty.

PATTERN NOTE: The pattern is worked in ewrap knit stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 51 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: p to end of row.

Row 2: ek to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: ek to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: ek to end of row.

Row 7: p3, *yo, td, yo, ek3; rep from * to last 6 sts, yo, td, yo, p3.

Row 8: ek to end of row.

Row 9: p3, *ek3, yo, td, yo; rep from * to last 6 sts, ek3, p3.

Row 10: ek to end of row.

 

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 48 inches from cast on row.

Next 6 rows

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: ek to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: ek to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block to measurements.

Short how-to video coming soon!

 

 

8 Comments

  • Gorgeous work!!! Thank you so much for this.Great project for Loom-along on the KB site!

  • Love it. My next project.

  • The shawlette looks beautiful. I’m confused about what we are supposed to do to peg 2 after we’ve moved the loops from pegs 1 and 3 to peg 2. We yarnover past peg 1, then do we e-wrap and knit off peg 2 before doing a yarnover on peg 3? Do we purl it? Or do we slip peg 2 to move to peg 3?

  • What a gorgeous pattern! I bet it would be amazing in homespun yarn!

  • You are moving the loops from peg 1 to peg 2, then from peg 3 to peg 2. Pegs 1 and 3 are empty. You will ewrap (yarn over) peg 1, knit peg 2 (treating all the loops on peg 2 as one loop), ewrap (yarn over) peg 3. Hope this helps.

  • Can’t wait for the how to video so that I will be able to make this beautiful scarf.

  • Hi, thanks for your patience. It is almost ready and we are working really hard to be sure it contains everything you are needing. Pat

  • Will the note that says “short video coming soon” change to a link to the video? I have this bookmarked and want to make sure I can find it when it comes out. I have the first six rows on the loom and am just waiting to make sure I understand the 7th row instructions 🙂

    I’ve already made a cowl on the rotating loom and LOVE LOVE LOVE it!

    Anxiously waiting…

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Sep 11, 2017

Alani Lace Socks

It is not secret, knitting socks is one of my favorite past times. There is nothing more soothing than seeing those tiny stitches popping down from the knitting loom. The process is hypnotic and soothing. A little bit of lace lends these socks a delicate feel. 

LOOM: His & Her Sock Looms, sample used 56 peg, orange loom.
YARN: Approx. 250 yards DK weight yarn. Sample used 1 skein Malabrigo, Arroyo (335 yards, 100% superwash merino wool) Pool color.
NOTIONS: knitting tool, (2) peg markers, tapestry needle, (2) US 2 double pointed needles
GAUGE: 14 sts x 21 rows = 2 inches in stockinette
SIZE: Sample is approx women’s size 6.5-7.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the U-stitch was used for sample).
CO=cast on
BO=bind off
WY=working yarn
yo=yarn over
ssk=slip, slip, knit. Over two pegs. Peg 1 is on the right and peg 2 on the left. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit peg 1, treating both loops on peg 1 as one loop.
k2tog=knit two together. Over two pegs. Peg is on the right, peg 2 on the left. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 1 as one loop.
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
rep=repeat
w&t=wrap and turn (lift the loop(s) from the peg, wrap working yarn around empty peg and replace held loop(s) back onto peg.)

PATTERN NOTES
Sample is approx Women’s size 6.5-7.5. To make a sock for other sizes on the 56 peg, orange loom, simply adjust the number of leg and foot rounds to equal desired lengths.

INSTRUCTIONS

CO 56 pegs, prepare to work in the round. (sample used ewrap cast on)

CUFF

Rnd 1-20: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 21: k to end of rnd.
Rnd 22: *yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 21 and 22: 2 more times. Rep Row 21.

HEEL

Set peg/stitch markers on pegs 1 and 28.
Pegs 10-19 are the pegs that will be left unwrapped during the w&t process. There will be 9 pegs on either side of the center pegs that will be the W&T pegs.

Refer to Short-row heel/toe instructions at the end of pattern for specific details.

At end of heel instructions- working yarn will be at peg 1 of Heel (Peg 28).

FOOT

Next rnd: k28, * yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Next rnd: k to end of rnd

Rep last 2 rnds until foot measures
6.5″ from back of heel. To make item for larger sizes, continue working until sock foot measures (measure from back of heel) 2.5 inches less than desired total length. 

TOE

Follow the same instructions as for the Heel to create the toe. Refer to Short-row heel/toe instructions at the end of pattern for specific details.

FINISHING

Keeping the stitches from twisting, mount the first 28 stitches onto a double pointed needle. Place the remainder 28 stitches onto second double pointed needle.

Bind off all stitches using the Kitchener Stitch. Tutorial:
http://www.knittingboard.com/kitchener-stitch-page/

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Short-row heel/toe Instructions for 56 Pegs

Row 1: k27, w&t peg 28
Row 2: k26, w&t peg 1
Row 3: k25, w&t peg 27
Row 4: k24, w&t peg 2
Row 5: k23, w&t peg 26
Row 6: k22, w&t peg 3
Row 7: k21, w&t peg 25
Row 8: k20, w&t peg 4
Row 9: k19, w&t peg 24
Row 10: k18, w&t peg 5
Row 11: k17, w&t peg 23
Row 12: k16, w&t peg 6
Row 13: k15, w&t peg 22
Row 14: k14, w&t peg 7
Row 15: k13, w&t peg 21
Row 16: k12, w&t peg 8
Row 17: k11, w&t peg 20
Row 18: k10, w&t peg 9

(Pegs 10-19 do not have wraps on them)

(Note: The following increase rows will require both lifting and working all previous wraps and stitches together as one as the pegs are knit and w&t’d. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)

Row 19: k11, w&t peg 21
Row 20: k12, w&t peg 8
Row 21: k13, w&t peg 22
Row 22: k14, w&t peg 7
Row 23: k15, w&t peg 23
Row 24: k16, w&t peg 6
Row 25: k17, w&t peg 24
Row 26: k18, w&t peg 5
Row 27: k19, w&t peg 25
Row 28: k20, w&t peg 4
Row 29: k21, w&t peg 26
Row 30: k22, w&t peg 3
Row 31: k23, w&t peg 27
Row 32: k24, w&t peg 2
Row 33: k25, w&t peg 28
Row 34: k26, w&t peg 1

Peg 1 and Peg 28 still have wraps on them. Continue to the foot instructions. On the first round, knit off the wraps together with the stitch (3 over 1) as the next round is worked.

 

5 Comments

  • i recently purchased the his/hers sock loom and i am having difficult time trying to figure out.
    i have read about 4 or 5 times and still nothing, i try step by step and still lost.

    Do you have a tutorial video for this his/hers sock loom???

    i see one for everything else, but no his/hers sock loom… thanks for any help given…

    i am a beginner, so need from start till finish…

  • This MIGHT become my first pair of loom knit socks!

  • Hi, these sock looms are used the same way as the others. You can follow the videos that we have for the other sock looms and it will work for this loom.

  • Hi, how would you work the ‘yo’ at the beginning of row 22? Would the first peg end up having two loops on it?

    Thanks for your help.

  • I have a question and it relates to the toe section.
    For the heel you do the reinforcement and then continue on to do the leg.
    When you are doing the toe, do you skip that part? When you have finished the section do you just do the bind off starting from peg 1?
    None of the videos explains what is to be done. They just say heel and toe section are done the same.

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Sep 4, 2017

Stitchology 36: Triple Wrap Around Stitch

This month’s stitch creates a lacy, yet still plush design that is reminiscent of cresting waves upon ocean beaches, seashells, or even fish scales (holey mackerel, lol!). It uses a new technique of wrapping back and forth between two pegs at a time to achieve this lovely effect.  Feel free to use this stitch for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed from either side.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The “triple wrap around” (TWA) referred to in this pattern is a combination of techniques worked on just two pegs, moving back and forth between them in the following manner (instructions are to begin from right to left/clockwise):

Step 1: S2 (carry working yarn (WY) behind pegs 1 & 2)

Step 2: Bring WY around to the front of peg 2 and SWYF (slip stitch with working yarn in front of peg: see below for more info) on peg 2 and on peg 1.

Step 3: Bring WY behind peg 1 and 2 and around to the front of the peg 2.  SWYF again on peg 2.

Step 4: Bring WY between peg 2 and peg 1 and around to the front of peg 1, creating an E-wrap.

Step 5: KO peg 1.  K peg 2.

 

(SWYF) directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front. This simply means that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

 

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker lines are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches outside the border square are worked only once: at the end of the odd rows, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the even rows, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeating Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches outside the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *k2, TWA, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2:  k all sts.

Row 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, TWA.

Row 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Round 1:  *k2, TWA, rep from * to end.

Round 2: k all sts.

Round 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to end.

Round 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rounds 1-4 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

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