Jun 19, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Work Beads Into My Projects

 

 

 

 

 

After people get the hang of loom knitting beanies and scarves, the desire to expand their knowledge of different techniques grows.  In social media, I see questions for all sorts of things.  Among them are How do I knit with beads?  Do I need to string the beads first?  Can I add beads as I go?

Different people have different methods for attaching beads to their loom knit projects.  Today I will demonstrate 3 different ways to attach beads.  Other people may have other methods.

Let’s start with beads and go from there!

What kind of beads do I need to use?

You can use any kind of bead that you can fit your yarn though.  Most people I have seen in loom knitting tend to use pony beads.  Those are the larger plastic beads found in the kids crafts that have really large holes.  But you are not limited to those alone.  While you will need to use beads with larger holes on thicker yarn, you might actually be surprised what beads you can use when I show you how I thread them onto the yarn.

Do I need to use a beading needle to thread the beads on the yarn?  

I have made jewelry for years now.  I have used all sorts of beading needles.  One of my favorites is the needle that is made of twisted wire with an eye that will collapse shut after being threaded.  Very inexpensive to buy.  But not always the best when threading yarn through beads.  And as for the tapestry needles used to weave in the ends, those are always too big for beads unless you are using pony beads.

What do I use then if not a beading needle?

Dental floss.  WHAT??  Yes.  I like to use dental floss to thread my beads on the yarn.  I would like to mention that I use dental floss straight from the container that is unused…  I am all for recycling, but reusing dental floss is a bit much for me.

What kind of dental floss?

I prefer using the unflavored waxed dental floss.  No need to have mint flavored yarn.  And the dye they use on the flavored floss might stain the yarn.  Not sure.  But don’t want to chance it.

I like waxed because it makes it easier for ends of the floss to stick together and go through the hole of the bead.

What if I only have unwaxed floss?

You can use unwaxed if you have some beeswax or beading thread conditioner that you can coat the ends of the floss.  But if you have the thread conditioner, you might happen to have beading thread which you can use in the place of the floss.  Like using the floss because it’s a bit easier to work with.  Especially if it’s waxed.

But waxed dental floss is very inexpensive and therefore not a struggle to afford.

How do I add the beads?  Before or as I go?   Do both methods look the same?  Or different?

The way the beads look on the finished piece will definitely vary with the way the beads are added.  Let’s talk about each way and see how the beads look when the work is finished.

Adding Beads Before Starting

The easiest way would be to string all the beads you will need before starting to knit.

You will need to make sure you have enough or more than you will need.  If not, you will need to cut the yarn, add more beads, and join the new yarn leaving you will extra ends to weave in later.

Also if you are using more than 1 color bead and are wanting to create a pattern with the color, you will need to make sure they are strung on the yarn in the order that you will need them so that the first one you will need will be last one you will string onto the yarn and the last you will will need will be the first you will string onto the yarn.

How to thread the beads on the yarn

 

 

First remove a piece of floss from the spool about 10″ to 12″ long so that when folded in half you have about 6″ of floss to work with.

 

 

 

 

 

Run the 2 ends of the floss between your fingers so they will stick together.

Thread the end of the floss through the bead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gently pull the yarn through the bead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue stringing the beads onto the yarn until all the beads you will need are on the working yarn.  As I have mentioned already, having more than you need is always better than not having enough.  Just keep the beads pushed down the yarn.

If the end of the floss starts to fray, just trim it or replace with a new piece.

 

 

 

Start your knitting with the end of the yarn.  Keep pushing the beads on down the yarn until you need them.

 

 

 

When you are ready to use a bead, put it in between the 2 pegs where you want it to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Work the next stitch leaving the bead between the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This method is great when you want to place a bead between every stitch.

 

 

 

 

With this method, you need to remember that the yarn will run through the hole of the bead horizontally with only 1 strand of yarn through the bead.

 

 

 

If you are using all knits, the beads will try to hide behind the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beads will be more prominent when worked with purls stitches on either side of the bead instead of knits.

It’s good to keep that in mind when adding beads to your work.

 

 

 

Adding Beads As You Go

This method is great when you don’t really know how many beads you will need because you are just winging it by placing beads randomly or just don’t want to count them out.  No judgement on that last one…  Nope.  Been there.  Done that.

First thing to remember about both of these methods is that when beads are added as you go, the stitch itself will run through the bead vertically with both strands of the stitch, not horizontally with only 1 strand like the previous method.

Method 1

 

 

When adding a bead onto the stitch, you will need to first draw up the the new stitch like working a true knit stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completely remove the old stitch from the peg and run the dental floss through the new loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

String the bead onto the floss and then onto the loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tighten up the loop after getting the bead down behind the peg and place the loop onto the peg itself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bead is now on the peg with the new stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This method will leave a “hole” on each side of the bead since the stitch itself is sort of cinched through the hole of the bead.

Therefore, I would not recommend using this method on every stitch.  But at least skipping a stitch between each bead.

 

 

 

 

Method 2

 

 

With the second method of adding beads as you go, draw up a new stitch but unlike Method 1 do not remove the stitch from the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As before, run the floss through the loop and run the bead onto the loop.

But this time the bead will be in front of the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the new loop onto the peg after tightening up the loop so there is not any slack.

Remember to not take the old loop off the peg so that there are 2 loops on the peg with the bead in front of the peg.

Continue with the rest of the row.

 

 

 

 

 

On the next row when the peg with the bead is ready to be worked,  PURL that stitch so the the bead will be to the front of the work.

If you knit the stitch, the bead will be at the back of the work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There may be a tiny gap at the top and bottom of the bead, but with this method the bead will sit nicely in front of the fabric.

 

 

 

Like I said before, different people have different ways to add beads to embellish their knits.  I hope any of these ways will help when you decide to use beads with your loom knitting projects as well.

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Jun 10, 2017

Men’s Vest

 

Knit with a simple stitch, this vest is the perfect way to begin loom knitting garments. Worn over a dress shirt with a tie lending a bit of warmth and style.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom with 20-peg extenders

YARN:  Approx 770 yds of worsted weight yarn. Caron Simply Soft in Navy color 570(600, 630) yds, and Gray color 120 (130, 140 yds) was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 6 stitch markers to mark the shoulders and back of neck, stitch holder.

GAUGE: 20 sts x 32 rows=4 inches

SIZE:  S (M, L) Sample shown in Small. Meant to fit loosely.

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit

p=purl

st(s)=stitch(es)

k1f&b=knit one front and back (an increase)

rem=remain

MC=Main color (Gray)

CC=Contrasting color (Navy)

Approx=Approximately

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 118) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-Row 20: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Cut CC, join MC.

Row 21: Move last loop over one peg to leave one peg open (move loop from peg 100 to peg 101; from peg 110 to peg 111; from peg 118 to peg 119). K1f&b,k to end of row.  (101, 111,119 sts)

Row 22: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Continue working in knit stitch until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Bind off the neckline using basic bind off method— 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches, 35 (39, 39) sts for back of next stitches, and 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches.

Tip: You can mark them with stitch markers, as you will need to line up the front shoulders to the back for seaming.

FRONT

Follow instructions as for Back from Row 1-Row 21.

Row 22: *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 23: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22-23 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the back.  

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows while maintaining the stitch pattern.

(Example for Large Size: First row: bind off first 6 sts of the row, k1, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. (113 sts rem).

Next row:  bind off first 6 sts of row, k to end. (107 sts rem).

**Next row: k1, p1, *k3,p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

 Next row: k to end of row.**

Rep from ** to ** until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the Back.

Work as for Back, including all shaping. When piece measures 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches, (at the point of the shoulder shaping), begin the neck shaping too.

Begin Neck Shaping

Work to center st in established stitch pattern, remove center stitch and place it on a stitch holder.  Attach another ball of yarn on next stitch and complete row (using the new ball of yarn). Work both sides at once.

Decreasing 1 st at each neck edge every 2nd  row, 9x (6x, 3x), then every 4th row 8x (13x, 17x).

Continue in established stitch pattern until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Bind off using basic bind off method.

Block pieces lightly before assembly.

ASSEMBLY

Join side seams using mattress stitch.

Weave in all ends.

Seam each shoulder 27 (30,33) sts of front to 27 (30, 33) sts of back.

Armhole Edging
(make 2)

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 120) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Seam Armhole Edging to each armhole opening using mattress stitch.

Neck Edging

Using CC, cast on 112 (120, 148) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Locate the center stitch of the neckline opening, remove stitch from stitch holder, and pass the tapestry needle through it and begin mattress stitch seaming the Neck Edging at that point all the way around.

Weave all ends in. Block lightly.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

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Jun 5, 2017

Stitchology 33: Encased Ribbing

This is a wonderful stitch that, like last month’s choice, creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric.  Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. Another terrific thing about this stitch is that it is absolutely perfect for summer knitting, as its only two pattern rows are so easy to remember and work on the go!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

(SWYF) x2 directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front 2 times. This simply means that the next 2 pegs will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. Repeat for the next peg in line.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches after the border square are worked only once: at the end of the first row, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the 2nd row, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeat Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches after the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2:  (SWYF) x2, *p2, (SWYF) x2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Round 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 2: *(SWYF) x2, p2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

3 Comments

  • The notes on the entire square that is pictured above, are listed at the Ravelry project listing for this stitch here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/encased-ribbing-stitchology-33 :)

  • I was wondering if there is a way to make adults hats on the adjustable sock loom sock loom?

  • Hi Dawn :)

    Sure, there is always a way to do what you want. The trick is figuring out the way to get it done, haha! ;) In this case, the whole idea hinges on the number of pegs available and the gauge of the loom itself. If you are talking about the Sock Loom 2: http://www.knittingboard.com/sock-loom-2/ , there are 54 pegs with a gauge of 3/8″ center to center of pegs, which works beautifully with worsted weight yarn. This may not be enough pegs to make an adult hat the traditional way, but you could always make them in panels, stitch them together and gather the top. You could also try to loosely ewrap the pegs for the main stitch, or use a very loose stitch pattern, such as the Figure 8 stitch…this would serve to make the overall circumference wider to help accommodate an adult sized head. Now if you were talking the All-n-One Loom, which has the same gauge a the Sock Loom 2, then there would absolutely be no trouble using any kind of stitch you desire to make an adult hat.

    The best way to determine if this will work for you on a loom with fewer pegs is to work a swatch of about 4″ by 4″ in your desired stitch and see how many pegs (& rows) it takes to equal that 4″. Take that total peg count and divide it by 4, which gives you your stitch count per inch. Then multiply this number by the inches needed for your hat and you will end up with the number of pegs needed to make that work.

    So: Make a 4″ x 4″ swatch. Total # of stitches ÷ 4 = stitches per inch. Stitches per inch x head circumference in inches = total number of pegs needed. :)

    Hope that helps!
    Bethany~

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May 29, 2017

Elegant Long Stem Roses

Roses are the go-to gift for all occasions.  But some people have allergies that prevent them from enjoying real roses, and roses never last very long for the amount of money they cost.  Why not make a bouquet that will last more than one lifetime?

With medium level skills of short row knits and construction of multiple pieces, a work of art can be created in very little time but will last forever and won’t make anyone sneeze.  Why not knit a dozen in your favorite color for a stunning display!

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN:  70 yds of dk/3 weight 50% cotton/50% acrylic yarn for each rose, 50 yds of rose color & 20 yds of green.  Cascade Yarns Sunseeker Shade in colors 09 (red), 05 (baby pink), 06 (white), and 26 (green) used in samples.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 16 gauge galvanized steel wire cut 10″ long for each rose

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  12 “ from top of petal to bottom of stem

 ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

S=slip (skip)

P2tog=purl 2 together – move the stitch from the end peg to the next peg and purl both stitches as one

CDD=central double decrease – move the 2 outside loops to the middle peg and purl all 3 stitches as one

W&T=wrap & turn – lift the stitch off the peg, wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it from behind and around to the front, place loop back on peg.

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

CA=petal color (red, pink, or white)

CB=calyx and stem (green)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Petals – Make 6

Using CA and leaving a tail approx. 6” long for seaming, CO 8 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all 8 pegs

R2:  S1, k next 7 pegs

R3:  K pegs 1-6, W&T peg 7

R4:  K pegs 6-1

R5:  K pegs 1-4, W&T peg 5

R6:  K pegs 4-1

R7:  K pegs 1-2, W&T peg 3

R8:  K pegs 2-1

Rep R1-8, 9 more times

Next row:  K all 8 pegs

BO using basic BO method.

Using the long tail from the cast on, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches and gather the center by pulling it close. Then still using the tail from the CO, work the mattress stitch seaming the CO edge to the BO edge.  (See Picture Details of Petals after Assembly below for more details.)

Weave in the tail used for seaming while leaving the BO tail for assembly.

 

Calyx (Leaves beneath Petals)

Using CB, CO 35 pegs using the Gathered CO Method (see instructions after Assembly below).  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P all

R3 – 6:  rep R1-2, twice

Now begin working a flat panel over 7 pegs to create the connected leaves.

*R1:  K7 – 7 pegs

R2:  P2tog, P3, P2tog – 5 pegs

R3:  K5

R4:  P5

R5:  K5

R6:  P2tog, P1, P2tog – 3 pegs

R7:  K3

R8:  P3

R9:  K3

R10:  CCD – 1 peg

Cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

BO by pulling the tail through the final stitch.

Join working yarn on the next unworked peg.

Rep from * until 5 leaves are made using all unworked pegs.

Seam the 2 sides together (do NOT use the CO tail to seam the sides together).  Weave in ends except for the CO tail.

Gather the CO edge to prepare attaching calyx to stem.  (See Picture Details of Calyx after Assembly below for more details.)

 

Stem

Using 2 strands of CB together as one, CO 2 pegs.

*K peg 1 then knit peg 2.

Holding the wire behind the pegs (see Picture Details of Stem after Assembly below), bring the working yarn behind the wire back to peg 1.

Rep from * until all of the wire is covered by the i-cord except for 1″ at the top.

Note:  Remember to keep these stitches loose since using 2 strands make the stitches tighter than usual.

BO and cut working yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

 

Assembly

Joining Petals Together Creating Rose Bud

 

 

Center the seam at the bottom of the petal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over one side of the petal keeping the seam centered at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over the other side so that the bottom of the petal is closed together and top is open.

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the bottom of the petal together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the overlapping petal no higher than halfway up.

Weave in the end before continuing with the next petal.

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap the next petal around the first keeping the seam at the bottom of the petals.

Sew the edges to the petal beneath and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue adding petals in the same manner alternating direction they are wrapped around the previous petals until all 6 are sewn together.

 

 

 

 

 

Bud is finished and ready to be joined to the Calyx and Stem.

 

 

 

 

 

Joining Calyx to Stem

 

Using one of the strands of yarn from the tail of the stem, sew the gathered center of the calyx to the top of the stem.

Make sure the wire is though the center of the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue sewing the top of the stem to the gather center of the calyx.

The center will continue to gather as each stitch joins the stem since the center will not gather down to the size of the stem.

 

 

 

 

Use the tail from gather the calyx to sew the calyx to the rose bud.

Weave in the ends from the stem after the calyx is sewn to the top of the stem.

The wire should protrude 1″.

 

 

 

 

 

Whip stitch the bottom of the stem with the tail so the bottom of the wire will not protrude from the bottom before running the tail up inside the stem with the wire..

 

 

 

 

Joining Rose Bud to Calyx and Stem

 

 

Insert the wire into the bottom of the rose bud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the tail from gathering the center of the calyx, sew the bottom edge of the petals to the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 After sewing the bottom edges to the calyx, sew around again up to the the part of the calyx where the  leaves start.

 

 

 

 

Gathered Cast On Instructions

 

 

 Place slip knot on “anchor” peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run working yarn in front of peg 1.  Then behind peg 2.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of the odd numbered pegs and behind the even number pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

Ending with the working yarn in front of peg 35.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind peg 35 and back around in front of the next 2 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the bottom loop over the top on the peg with 2 loops.  Continue with every 2 pegs until peg 1 has been knitted.  Now all pegs should have a stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Start row 1 as instructed.  Leave the slip knot on the anchor peg until the first row has been worked.

 

 

 

Picture Details of Petals

 

 

Before seaming and gather center.

Back of work when on the loom but front when when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

Front of work when on the loom but back when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a tapestry needle, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue around the center until on the other side of the center.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gather the center and use tail to seam the cast on and bind off edges with the mattress stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petal finished and ready to assemble.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Calyx

 

 

 For first leaf, knit the first 7 pegs.  Then move the stitch on peg 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the stitch from peg 7 onto peg 6.  Purl both loops as one and then purl pegs 5, 4, and 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And place it onto peg 2.  Purl both loops as 1.

Then continue with written instructions  until you have only 3 stitches remaining.

 

 

 

 

Now to work the CDD.

Remove the stitch from peg 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch from peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2 so that 3 loops are on 1 peg.

Purl all 3 loops together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

Bind off by pulling the working yarn up through the remaining stitch as if working a purl stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But unlike a purl, continue to pull the tail through the loop and remove the stitch off the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the tail until the loop closes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A look at the first leaf finished with the remaining stitches are still on the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the working yarn on the first stitch of the unworked stitches by simply placing the yarn around the peg.

While a slip knot can be used here, this method will eliminate knots in the work.

 

 

 

 

Knit as normal and continue.

Snug up the tail as needed if the stitch becomes loose.

Then weave in the tail later.

 

 

 

 

 

How the calyx looks before weaving in the ends and seaming the sides together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calyx seamed and gathered with tail for sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Stem

 

 

First 2 stitches of knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hold wire behind the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind the wire and back around in front of peg 1 to knit pegs 1 and 2 again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue until 1″ of wire is left uncovered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern written and designed by Renita Harvey.

 

 

 

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May 21, 2017

Sunshine Shawl

I have always wanted a larger scale of the Inara Scarf and after many years, that dream has become a reality. Featuring the drop stitch with different lengths of elongated stitches, the shawl is perfect for those brisk morning or evening walks. The Sunshine Shawl has a diamond design worked with yarn overs on a background of garter stitch. The background of garter stitch makes the design pop even more. A yarn with wool (or natural fiber) content is recommended as the shawl needs to be blocked to show the stitches at its best!

Enjoy!

MATERIALS

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom (or any other of the KB looms with at least 99 pegs–can use the Afghan Loom, the 28″ Knitting Loom, or even (2) Hat Looms assembled together).

Yarn:  Approx 800 yds of worsted weight merino wool. Knit Picks Preciosa in Canary was used in sample; 3 skeins.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers/peg markers

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows=4 inches

Size: Approx 23 inches wide x 72 inches long

ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit Knit Stitch or Flat Stitch will work

P=purl

Yo=yarn over e-wrap the peg in a clockwise direction

Drp=Drop yarn over–Take the yarn overs off the peg

Sl=Slip stitch Skip the peg with yarn in back of work

Diamond Stitch Design

Use the instructions below when enlarging the pattern for a bigger item, such as a shawl.

Multiple of 6 + 1

Row 1: *k2, yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3, e-wrap peg 3 twice

Knit peg 4, e-wrap peg 4 twice

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last stitch

Row 2: p1, *p1, drp1, p1, drp2, p1, drp2, p1, drp1, p1, p2; rep from * to end of row

Purl peg 1

*Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 4

Purl peg 4

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 5

Purl peg 5

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Purl peg 7; rep from * to the end of row

Row 3: *k1, yo2, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo2; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1, e-wrap peg 1 twice

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3

Knit peg 4

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6, e-wrap peg 6 twice; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last

stitch

Row 4: p1, *drp2, p1, drop1, p3, drp1, p1, drp2, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Purl peg 1

*Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 2

Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Purl peg 4

Purl peg 5

Drop yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 7

Purl peg 7

Pattern Notes

Pattern is worked in a clockwise direction around the loom–You will be knitting a flat panel, the first row will be from right to left. Peg 1 will be at the far right and the last peg at the far left. The second row will start at the far left and end at the far right: Peg 1 will be at far left and the last peg at the far right.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 99 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

(Place peg marker on peg 1 and peg 99. Peg 1 and peg 99 are selvage stitches, the stitches in between are pattern repetitions, if you want to make a wider item, simply work more of these repetitions.)

Garter Stitch Edging

Row 1, 3, 5: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Row 2, 4, 6: Sl1, k to end

Row 7: Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 8: Sl1, p1, *p1, drp1yo, p1, drop2yo, p1, drp2yo, p1, drp1, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Row 9: Sl1, *k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 10: Sl1, p1, *drp2yo, p1, drp1yo, p3, drp1yo, p1, drp2yo, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 74 inches from cast on edge.

Rep Rows 1-6. 

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block to measurements to open up the design.

4 Comments

  • Will there be a video of this stitch? :)

  • As of right now, there are no plans for a video. The stitch breakdown is included and it is a fairly easy process.

  • What Cast On did you use? Is there one that will match the basic bind off? It’s absolutely a beautiful pattern! I can’t wait to make it!

  • It used the ewrap cast on and it was tightened after the item was completed.

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May 15, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Bind Off In Pattern? Or Beyond The Basic Bind Off…

 

 

 

 

 

 

What does “bind off in pattern” mean?  This is actually a question I haven’t seen in loom knitting at all.  But having seen “bind off in pattern” in needle knitting has really got me to thinking about binding off and different methods to bind off.

The most common bind off in loom knitting is the basic bind off.  This bind off is a great bind off for keeping the tension loose as you work the bind off instead of having to remember to work the previous row looser than normal.  But it does add an extra row of knit at the end.

This has prompted me to expand the basic bind off method to include purl stitch so the last row of purl can be the bind off when working garter stitch or even being able to use the basic bind off on ribbing or other stitch patterns  that isn’t all knits.  Which is where “bind off in pattern” comes into play.

Now let’s revisit the Basic Bind Off and then discuss how to bind off in pattern.  And then we will discuss how to make the Basic Bind Off more stretchy by adding a chain stitch between the bind off stitches without using a crochet hook.

 

Basic Bind Off – Original with Knit Stitch

Chain edge of the Basic Bind Off

 

The Basic Bind Off is always worked with the working yarn and gives a nice chain edge that matches the Chain Cast On.  And also matches the side edges when using the slip stitch.  More on using the slip stitch to create a nice chain edge in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip? That is the Frequently Asked Question

 

 

 

 

Now let’s discuss how to work the Basic Bind Off using all knit stitches like we all know and love.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

 

 

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2:  Knit peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the Knit Row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off – In Pattern including Purl Stitch

What does bind off in pattern mean exactly?  It means that the stitches worked on the basic bind off match the stitches in the stitch pattern used.

Wait…  What????

Here is where the explanation gets a bit trickier, but I will do the best I can.

Say the project being worked on is in garter stitch.  And you want to bind off on the purl row instead of working the purl row then binding off with that extra row of knit.

You will then need to work the basic bind off but purl the stitches instead of knitting them.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the purl row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are ending a project in rib stitch.  Then you would need to work each stitch on the bind off to match the rib stitch for that row.

 

Basic Bind Off using Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off with Rib Stitch while Stretched

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are using the seed stitch.  You will need to work each stitch of the bind off to match the seed stitch for that row.

Those previous 3 examples are what it means to bind off in pattern.  Your bind off matches your stitch pattern.

Now let’s try to write it out without it getting too confusing.

The bind off is still worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will still call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Using the stitch that will keep the stitch pattern going for the row, work peg 1.

Step 2:  Then work peg 2 in the stitch pattern.

If it is garter and you are binding off on the purl row, then you will purl peg 1 and peg 2.  If it’s a 1×1 rib with the first stitch on the row being knit and the second stitch being purl, then you will knit peg 1 and purl peg 2.  Or whatever stitch pattern you are using.

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.  Just remember that you will need to keep up with which peg needs a knit or a purl depending on what your stitch pattern is.

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off – Added Chain Stitch Between Bind Off Stitches

Sometimes it is hard to keep the tension loose enough so that the bind off is not too tight.  We all struggle with that.

What I always recommend is when working the bind off, make sure the stitch is very loose to the point you think it will be too loose.  But it is hard to keep all the stitches the same as you work them.

 

 

Here is a variation of the basic bind off where a chain stitch is added between each stitch giving the bind off edge more stretch.  And best part is a crochet hook is not need to work this bind off.

 

 

 

 

 

But this bind off will leave a little hole between each stitch because of the extra chain between the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

Note:  I will use “knit” for the stitch to work each peg.  But purl stitch can also be used on any peg to bind off in pattern except when an e-wrap knit is used to make the extra chain.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

Step 2:  E-wrap knit peg 1 again by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1 again and knitting over.  This is what creates the extra chain stitch.

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Knit peg 2.

Step 4:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 5:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 6:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 7:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

Repeat steps 2 – 7 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Now that the Basic Bind Off has been expanded to include more than just knit stitches, the bind off world is endless.  Just remember to keep in mind your tension so the bind off edge is not too tight.

Keep on loom knitting!

1 Comment

  • I was working on a rib pattern and I tried binding off in pattern using your excellent tutorial and it turned out fantastic. I hope this tutorial will be permanently stored in the “Learn” section of the web site. Actually there are many of these types of learning tutorials that would be easier for beginners to find if they were all stored in one place. Thank you for teaching us this nice techinque.

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May 8, 2017

Shawlette

 

We are delighted to bring to you a gorgeous shawlette designed by Denice Johnson. Grab your loom, yarn, and get started! 

Knitting loom: KB Hat Loom (84 peg configuration)

Yarn: Approx 380 yrds (190 g) of worsted weight yarn. Bernat Pop in Ebony and Ivory was used in sample.

Gauge: not important

Size: Ladies One Size (54″x 22″)

Abbreviations

K= ew knit

P= purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

WYIF= working yarn in front (do not wrap)

Inc1= increase 1

Dec1= decrease 1

Sk=slip stitch (skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg)

Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs and repeated for row

(ewrap and knit peg 1, ewrap and knit peg 2, move stitch from peg 2 and place

above stitch on peg 1, knit bottom stitch over, place wyif of peg 2)

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Stitch patterns changes will occur with a new color section in the yarn.

Cast on 1 st (this is starter peg, the stitch on this peg will never be moved) prepare to work a flat panel

SECTION 1:

Row 1: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 2: sk1, p to end

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 1 until color changes on the yarn (end on peg 1)

SECTION 2:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 of section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 3:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 4:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 5:

Worked the same as section 1

Continue to increase on right side until you reach peg 83 (84)

Now you will decrease instead of increase

Continue section until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 6:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 7:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 8:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 9:

Row 1 : sk1, p row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 until 1 st remains

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave end in. Steam block lightly

Have questions or comments, or simply want to thank the designer for sharing her pattern?  Please feel free to leave a message for Denice Johnson in the comments below. 

 

4 Comments

  • That’s gorgeous, Denice! Love it! :D

  • I love the pattern. I do have a question though. Is it possible to give us a row count for each section? I can’t get Bernat Pop in my area and would be doing this another yarn.
    Telling us how many rows for each section would make it easier to use this pattern.

  • Hi Bev,
    To answer your question, there is no exact amount of rows for each section. Depending on what yarn you use (any worsted yarn can be used) will get your row amount based on the length of that color. You can even use solids and just do color changes.

  • I too am curious about the row count, as Bernat Pop isn’t available where I am either. Hope we hear back from you! It’s a lovely pattern, I can’t wait to try it out.

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May 1, 2017

Diagonal Cross Stitch: Stitchology 32

Our newest venture into loom knitting stitch discovery is this lovely design that creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric.  Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. While this technique will employ the use of a cable needle, it doesn’t actually have any cables. The tool will be used to slip one stitch over 3 others to create the slightly honeycomb feel of this design. Let’s get started!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

 

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The yo-3 in this pattern involves slipping the yo loop over 3 stitches. This begins by creating a new loop which will be used as the yo loop.  In the charts, this is noted over the span of 3 sts/squares. In the instructions for the Repeating Pattern Rows, it is written like this: yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.

To do this, follow the below instructions:

1. yo-3 peg: place the working yarn (wy) under the loop already on the peg as if to purl.  Pull the wy up through the loop to create a new loop. Place this new loop temporarily on the 2nd peg before the yo-3 peg.  (For example: work from right to left: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. Create new loop and bring new loop behind peg 2, and place temporarily on peg 1.)

2. yo-3 peg: U-stitch the yo-3 peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. U-stitch peg.)

3. Purl next peg. (For our example:  6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Purl peg 4.)

4. U-stitch next peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  U-stitch peg 5.)

5. Place 3 worked pegs (For our example: pegs 3-5) in order onto the left side of a cable needle.  Place new loop being held (For our example: on peg 1) onto far right side of cable needle.

6. Slip the new loop at the right over all three loops at the left, as well as entirely over the top of the cable needle.

7. Replace 3 held loops back onto pegs in order (For our example: pegs 3-5).

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

Repeating Pattern Rows- Flat Panel

Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches- Worked in the Round

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The stitches in both charts that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.  The stitches below the border squares are set-up rows to be worked only once, before the repeating rows. In the Flat Panel Chart, the stitches after the border square are worked only once at the end, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed. In the chart for working in the Round, there are stitches before and after the border squares that are worked only once: before all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, and after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, as are shown in each row of the chart.

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rows

Row 1:  *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 2:  *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.

Row 4:  *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 5:   k1, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 6: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 3-6 until desired length.

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Set-Up Rounds

Rounds 1 & 2: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rounds

Round 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 4: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 5:  S1 with working yarn behind, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts.  The last stitch of round will carry over to the 1st peg of the same round (which was previously slipped): yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.

Round 6: Begin on peg 2: p1, *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 3-6 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

4 Comments

  • Would like to have the larger chart you briefly showed in the video that apparently was used in your sample…love the stitch and am anxious to try it…thanks.

  • Hi Marie :)

    Due to this new format and the extra time involved with creating the video, an entire pattern for the square will not be posted here. But currently, you can find the charts for the 8? x 8? squares since the new format began (Feb 2017: Lacy Hearts) and yarn information at the Ravelry page for each stitch. I hope this will help you to make gorgeous stitches with us! :) http://www.ravelry.com/designers/bethany-a-dailey

    Bethany~

  • Hi Bethany, I fell in love with this pattern and I am going to try it on a 90 peg loom repeating the pattern 44 times and the 2 extra pegs. I’m uncertain what cast on to use, but I want to try the cable cast on that matches needle cast on that I learned on good knit kisses you tube videos. Thank you for such a beautiful pattern.

  • Oh, wonderful, Jessie! :D I will look forward to seeing how your piece comes out! As for a cast on, the cable cast on I’m sure will work just dandy. My personal favorite is the chain cast on, which matches the basic bind off beautifully. :)

    Have fun with this!
    Bethany~

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Apr 30, 2017

Whirly Bookmark

Sometimes quick and simple make the best gifts.  Bookmarks are a gift that most anyone can use.  Pretty yarn and very little time can make a stunning Whirly Bookmark making it great for end of the year teachers’ gifts as well as gifts for any holiday or birthday.

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN: 2 yds of 2 weight yarn.   Lion Brand Bonbons in Celebrate used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE:  n/a

SIZE:  Approximately 12” in length

ABBREVIATIONS

CO=Cast on

Rep=repeat

K=knit

INSTRUCTIONS

Curlicue Instructions

Step 1:  e-wrap K peg 1, 4 times

Step 2:  figure 8 wrap (see 2 Peg I-Cord Instructions) both pegs and K over, one time

Rep steps 1 & 2 until the curlicue is the length stated in the pattern.  Curls may need to be worked into place by hand.

2 Peg I-Cord Instructions

Step 1:  Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  K over.

Rep step 1 until the i-cord is the length stated in the pattern.

Bookmark

Using 2 strands of yarn held together as one, CO 2 pegs by placing the slip knot on peg 1 and wrapping peg 2   Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  Knit over.

Step 1:  Work Curlicue Instructions (above) until the work curls and is about 1” long.

Step 2:  Work a 2 peg i-cord until the work is approx. 10” from the end.

Note:  If a shorter or longer bookmark is desired, knit the i-cord to the desired length before the next step.

Step 3:  Work Curlicue Instructions until the work curls and is about 12” from the end (top curl should be only 2” long).

BO by moving the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2, lift bottom loop over top, cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in, pull the tail through the final loop.

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 Comment

  • I notice that the 38″ knitting board is available in June 2017. Has it been redesigned? Do the pegs have the groove in them? I just bought one from Amazon thinking that it was discontinued and was disappointed that there are no grooves to guide the pick and it is so much heavier than the other looms, even thought it is longer. Was just surprised.

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Apr 18, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Price My Work To Sell?

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of people who love any of the fiber arts end up wanting to sell their work.  Sometimes it is because they run out of people to make things for as gifts.  Or because they have a friend that has asked them to make something in particular.  Or sometimes it’s a simple matter of making money to help pay the bills.

This always leads to questions.  How do I price my work?  Am I asking too much because people seemed surprised when I mention the price?  Why am I not selling anything when my prices are low?

While there is nothing really set in stone on how to price handmade items, let’s discuss various ways to go about finding that right price for your items.

What It’s Worth VS. What People Will Pay

When pricing handmade items made of yarn, the first most obvious way is to keep up with the number of hours spent working on the item, multiplying that by an hourly wage, then adding cost of materials used.

Problem with that is even when using minimum wage, the price most likely will be more than most people are willing to pay or can even afford to pay.  This doesn’t mean that you don’t deserve that price for the items.  We all deserve to be paid more for our work than we can ever sell them for.

So what should I do?

Using The Cost of Supplies As a Guide

Another way to calculate price is to take the cost of yarn used for the project and multiple that by 2 or 3.

This method is used most often.  I like to multiply the cost of yarn by 3 because I do not want to undersell myself.  If the item is very time consuming due to it being a complex pattern, I will always add $10 to $50 depending on the size of the item and how long it took to complete.

But that seems too high to ask.

Most people do tend to under price their items.  They think that people will not pay a higher price for their work.

Let me just say this.  Never underestimate the value of your work.

Some people will not buy an item if they think it’s too cheap.  They may think you use inferior yarn.  Or that there is something wrong with it.

But people complain about it being too high, and they are able to buy it at a store cheaper.

There is always people who will complain about the price.  If they think they can get the same exact item with the same exact quality for less at a store, I can guarantee they will be in for a huge surprise.  Machine or sweat shop made items are not high quality.  They will not hold up to time and wear.

In other words, they will get what they pay for.

But I bought my yarn on sale.  Do I use that price?

If you buy your yarn on sale, I would recommend not using that price, but the regular price the yarn retails for.  That way if you need to make the same item again with the same yarn but need to buy more, your price will already cover the yarn not being on sale at that time.

Compare Prices

If you are still unsure of what to charge for something, look on the selling sites for similar items and see what those are selling for.  Then you can price your items accordingly.

Geographic Area Dictates Price As Well

Don’t forget that items that sell for higher prices in places that are known for artists and tourism will not sell for as much in small towns and lower populated areas.  Also places where the income is lower will need to have lower prices on handmade items than in places where income is higher.

Therefore you should always take into consideration where you live, who you are selling to, and how much people can pay for handmade, unique items.

So how much should I charge?

When considering how much to charge for something, it really all comes down to 3 things:  location, price of supplies, and personal consideration.  Each person values their time and effort differently.  Therefore, it is a personal preference as to how much each item is worth when selling it.

Is it too high?  Is it priced too low??

Only you can be the judge of that.  Just because it doesn’t sell at a certain price does not mean it’s priced too high.  Only that the right person hasn’t seen it yet to buy it at that price.

Remember This

There will always be people who will complain about the price.  ALWAYS.  And there will always be people who will offer you a lower price.  Therefore it is better to price your items on the high side so you do have room to for those that offer less.

And if they still complain about the price being too high, here’s a suggestion on how to deal with them.  Already know how much the price for that same item is when using the hourly wage price calculation.  Then explain to them that if you were wanting to get paid a hourly rate for your work like they get paid at their job (tell them what that per hour rate is and how long it took to make the item along with cost of materials) that the price would be this amount instead (tell them the higher price) and that you are wanting to give them a price cut to begin with.

Most people really have no clue how long it takes to make these things.  While putting it into perspective for them may not cause them to pay the price you are asking, at least then they will now be enlightened.  Or not.  Some people can never be enlightened…

Just remember to not be rude.  State the facts in a matter of fact manner.  And always with a smile.  If you keep on smiling to rude people, it makes them feel uncomfortable.  I love doing that…

NEVER UNDER ESTIMATE THE VALUE OF YOUR WORK!!  Whatever you do, do NOT price your items too low.  Your time and effort is always worth more than you can ever earn for a certain piece.  Just consider it a gift to mankind at whatever price you sell it for because you will always deserve more than you earn.

After all, it is art.  Always.  ART.  No matter if it’s a hat, scarf, or blanket.  And whoever buys it will treasure it for what it is.  ART.  Love is put in every piece.  If even made just for selling, you love the craft, or you wouldn’t do it.  Not like you are working in a sweat shop with no option otherwise.

In short, again, YOU ARE WORTH IT.  Price your work accordingly.  Is it correct?  Yes.  If you are comfortable with the price, then it is correct.  Even then, it’s probably too low.  But as long as you are happy with what you are paid, then it’s worth it.  Don’t let others tell you otherwise.

And as a side note…  If you are taking a commission to make something for someone, please get at least half if not all the money up front.  That way you will not be out any money if they change their mind.  And NEVER give them the item until full payment is made.  I have seen so many lose money by trusting people to pay them after they receive the item.  Unfortunately, friendships have ended over this very thing.  Just be careful and get paid up front.

Keep on loom knitting those lovely projects whether they are for yourself, for loved ones as gifts, or for sell no matter what the reason.  YOU ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY!!!

4 Comments

  • I want the rest of the pattern for THE BALLERINA BABY SOCKS. It only gives instructions down to the heel and that’s it. I feel it should tell how long to knit from heel to toe and then the instructions to casting off or ending the socks. Otherwise the picture and the instructions to the heel is great but only half of the instructions are there. Thank you, Please send me the rest of the instructions.

  • I don’t know how you know what many of us are thinking. ? I have been wrestling with this question for a while myself. Thank you for your input. But, you didn’t offer any suggestions where.

  • Unfortunately this article was not about where to sell things. Only about pricing items. I am not in a position to endorse any website and other place to sell handmade items on this blog. Thank you for reading!

  • Nina,
    The entire pattern is there. Are you following this link? I can see the entire pattern on the page. Please let me know if you can’t find it. http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/3387

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Apr 15, 2017

Twisted Pearl Stitch (double knit)

Knitting in double knit with Rib stitches can create so many varieties, but each one is a new stitch to use in many applications.  Rib creates a very stretchy knit that retains its shape.

stitch_taupe

 

With the Twisted Pearl Stitch, the back of this stitch looks just the same so it is a good one for showing both sides.

Very pretty and similar to our traditional Rib, but you will find  that the ribs are tighter in this stitch, and the same on both sides.

The background weave shows an angle strand when the rib is opened. (See up close insert.)  Be sure to work with an even number of stitches.

 

twisted_purl_graph

 

 

 

 

 

0         1          2         3           4         5         6         7           8         9          10       11       12

Loom:  10” knitting loom or any loom with 22 + pegs with a width of 1 cm between rows of pegs.

Yarn:  Any #4 worsted weight yarn in wool, acrylic or blend. Sample square is knit with Lion Brand Heartland.

Abbreviations:  L=left, R=right

close up twisted

Close up detail of this stitch with color background.   

Instructions:

Cast On 22 stitches in pattern working L to R with at least (1) open peg to L of slip knot.

(Option would be to cast on with stockinette, lay anchor yarn, and wrap in pattern for row #1)

So, let’s see how it looks on the loom:  We are creating a square that is approximately 10″ X 10″ just to learn the new stitch.  When complete, makes a great wash cloth.

 

Step 1:  Start with a slip knot on peg 2 top.twisted_purl1

Step 2:  Wrap straight down around peg 2 bottom.

Step 3:  Bring yarn back to peg 1 and wrap around top peg from inside to outside and straight down around bottom peg #1.

Step 4:  Bring yarn from bottom peg 1 to top peg 4, wrap around top of peg and down to bottom peg 4 and wrap.

Step 5:  Go back to peg 3 top wrapping to L and down around the bottom peg.

Step 6:  You will see that the repeat is to skip a peg, wrap the next peg, top to bottom pegs straight down, and then go back to skipped peg and wrap the pegs around top, going straight down to bottom peg. Then repeat skipping the next stitch.

Step 7:  Work in this manner across the 22 pegs. Lay a piece of anchor yarn.

Turn the loom around, so that you are again working from L to R. This shows the return over the anchor yarn.

twisted_purl2

Move yarn to 2nd stitch and repeat the process starting with step 3.

Continue working this row for the design.

Stitches ready to hook over.

 

Row is complete

Row is complete.

 

 

 

 

 

Rib Stitch Variations! Twisted Purl Stitch (tan) Spiraling Rib Stitch (pink), and the Bamboo Stitch (white).

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Apr 3, 2017

Slip Stitch Braid: Stitchology 31

This lovely stitch is perfect for spring knitting.  It contains pretty braids that almost look woven in appearance.  This technique is created by using slipped stitches combined with 1 over 2 cables.  Don’t let those cables cause you any dismay, because they are super simple to work with the help of that elongated slipped stitch.  Repeated throughout a project, this stitch makes me think of baby knits, socks, or even a lovely hat (anything that the back isn’t going to necessarily be a feature).  Change the color every two rows and the look goes from delicate to Wow!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

 

Special Stitch Instructions

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 5—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

**The stitch pattern does call for e-wrapping particular stitches. Wrap them, but do not knit them off until it is time to work these e-wraps into a row.  When it is time, knit off the stitch and then make sure to untwist the loop before working.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a 1 over 2 Right Cross [1/2RC] (a cable with the sts running to the right), and a 1 over 2 Left Cross [1/2LC] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[1/2RC]:  Worked over 3 pegs: Lift the 2 loops from the pegs on the right and place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the farthest peg on the right.  Place the 2 held loops onto the 2 pegs on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 3 pegs.

[1/2LC]:  Worked over 3 pegs: Lift the 2 loops from the pegs on the left and place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the farthest peg on the left.  Place the 2 held loops onto the 2 pegs on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 3 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitches onto a cable needle on the side of the directional slant.  So…for a right cable, hold the loops on the right.  For a left cable, hold the loops on the left.

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

Slip Stitch Braid, Repeating Pattern

Slip Stitch Braid, Repeating Pattern with Color Stripes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The squares in the chart that are bordered with a pink square are the repeating pattern rows.  The squares outside the pink border are set-up rows to be worked only once, before the repeating rows. The chart on the right shows where to change colors, if an alternating color stitch is desired. 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rows

Row 1:  k all sts.

Row 2:  *EW1, k4, rep from * to end.

Row 3:  *k4, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 4: *S1, k2, EW1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 5: *k1, S1, 1/2RC, rep from * to end.

Row 6:  *EW1, k2, S1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 7:   *k1, 1/2LC, S1.

Repeat Rows 4-7 until desired length.

**Note:  When finishing the stitch pattern, omit the EW in the 2nd to last row and the S1 in the final row. 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rounds

Round 1:  k all sts.

Round 2:  *k4, EW1, rep from * to end.

Round 3: *k4, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rounds

Round 4: *k1, Ew1, k2, S1, rep from * to end.

Round 5: *k1, S1, 1/2RC, rep from * to end.

Round 6: *k1, S1, k2, EW1, rep from * to end.

Round 7:   *k1, 1/2LC, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 4-7 until desired length.

**Note:  When finishing the stitch pattern, omit the EW in the 2nd to last round and the S1 in the final round. 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

  • Which cast on method would you use for this pattern?

  • Hi Margo :)

    You can use whichever cast on you prefer. My personal favorite and the one that I pretty much use every time is the Chain Cast On. I like this one because I feel it most closely matches the Basic Bind Off, which is my go-to bind off method. ;)
    Bethany~

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Mar 26, 2017

Spring Break Wristers

Spring Break often includes vacations to areas that are still covered in snow.  Fingerless mitts are still needed to keep hands warm while leaving fingers free for smart phones and other touch screen devices. 

 These Spring Break Wristers are quick to work up and can be knit school colors as well as your favorite colors.  The stitch pattern is easy and quick to work while looking like you spent days knitting them.

 

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom 2

YARN: 122 yds total of worsted weight yarn.  78 yds of Color A – teal and 44 yds of Color B – tan.   Classic Elite Yarn Palace in colors #5567 (teal) and 5578 (tan) (55% baby alpaca, 25% bamboo viscose, 20% donegal, 98 yards per hank, 1 of each color)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2” in stockinette stitch

SIZE:  Approximately 7” length with 8” circumference.  Fits adult women.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

s=slip (skip) (unless otherwise stated, slip with working yarn to back of peg behind the stitch)

wyif=working yarn in front (lift stitch off peg, slip working yarn between front of stitch and back of peg, replace stitch on peg)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rep=repeat

CA=Color A – Teal

CB=Color B – Tan

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2.

With CA, CO 36 sts.  Prepare to work in the round.

 

Cuff to Thumb

Rnds 1 – 12:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Add CB

R13:  With CB, K all

R14 – 15:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R16 – 19:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R20:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R21 – 22:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R23 – 26:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R27:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R28 – 29:  P all

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

R30 – 36:  Rep R16 – 22

Drop CA. Pick up CB.

R37:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

 

Thumb Hole with Selvage Edge

Start working flat panel.

Row 1:  With CB, S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 2:  S1 wyif, k1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

Thumb hole with double selvage edges

Row 3:  With CA, S1, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 4:  S1 wyif, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, K1

Rows 5 – 6:  rep rows 3 – 4, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 7:  With CB, S1, *K4, K2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 8:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 9:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 10:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, K1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Row 11:  With CA, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, P1

Row 12:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, K1

Rows 13 – 14: rep rows 11 – 12, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 15:  With CB, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, P1

Row 16:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 17:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Prepare to work in the round.

 

Thumb to Fingers

R1 – 4:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R5:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R6 – 7:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R8 – 11:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R12:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R13 – 14:  P all

Cut CB.  Pick up CA.

R15 – 20:  With CA, *K2, P2, rep from * around

BO using the Basic BO method.

Cut CA.

Weave in ends.

Lightly block.

 

1 Comment

  • These are Beautiful & feminine , Thank you for the pattern. I want & hope to start on mine tomorrow . . <3

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Mar 20, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Work A Different Color Border?

 

 

 

 

 

Lately I have been looking at a lot of different yarn for various projects.  But it can be overwhelming.  Which is one reason I love self-striping yarn.  I can make a hat or scarf with self-striping yarn and let the yarn work it’s own magic without the hassle of changing colors.

But sometimes, colorwork is desired.  While there are various methods of colorwork in loom knitting, one of the questions I have seen is How do I made the border of my afghan a different color from the middle?  Well you are in luck!  Making a flat panel with a different color border is not as hard as it sounds whether it be a scarf, afghan, dish cloth, or other flat panel.  And even better, there are not a lot of ends to weave in either if it’s done correctly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s get started!

What stitch pattern should I use?

The stitch pattern used for the border and body can be whatever you wish.

If you don’t want the edges to curl, you do need to use a stitch pattern for the border that is a combination of knits and purls.  The body or middle of the flat panel can be all knits or stockinette or any other stitch pattern.

You can even work the entire piece in one stitch pattern and just change the colors to create a border effect.

For more information on why the edges curl, please check out Loom FAQs:  Why Do Knits Curl?

If you would like more information on the 3 simplest and most common knit/purl combinations that do not curl, please check out Loom FAQs:  Is It Garter, Rib, or Seed Stitch?

But I don’t want to weave in a lot of ends or have to join the yarn ends!!

Oh I feel you!  I absolutely despise weaving in ends, detest knots, and don’t like the floats or carried strands of yarn across the back of the work.

But you do not need to do any of those in order to create a border in a different color except for having a few extra ends to weave in.

But is it hard?

It is not hard at all to work the border in a different color.  But you will need to work with 3 strands of yarn after finishing the bottom border.

Why do I need to work with 3 strands of yarn?

First let’s start our sample piece, then discuss why 3 strands are needed.

Bottom Border

 

For our sample today, I will be working the border in garter with the grey yarn.

 

 

 

 

Then I will be adding the pink for the body in stockinette or all knits while working both side borders with the grey in garter before finishing the top border with grey in garter.  This way the middle will be pink and completely surrounded by grey.

 

 

I will NOT be slipping the first stitch on each row.  If you would like to create a nice chain border, you can learn more about slipping stitches in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip?  That is the Frequently Asked Question.

Here I have started my bottom border with the grey yarn on the Sock Loom 2 over 22 pegs and worked 8 rows (4 ridges) in garter stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Side Borders and Body

Now I will work the right border over 3 pegs.  Since I am working the border in garter, this row will be knit.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the yarn for the body which is pink for us here.   Leave the grey working yarn without cutting it.  We will pick it back up later.

How do I join the new color of yarn?

Some like to put the slip knot on the first peg of the new color.  I prefer to just start my new color as follows:

Simply work the first stitch in pink like normal leaving a tail to weave in later.  There really is not a need for a slip knot at all even on an anchor peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Won’t it leave a hole in that spot?

It will leave a hole if left alone, but you will close the hole when you weave in the end.  More information on weaving in ends can be found in Loom FAQs:  Why Not Knots?

For our sample, the body in the pink yarn will be 16 stitches.  I will be working every row of the pink yarn in all knits.  When the 16 stitches are complete, drop the pink yarn and join the second grey yarn.

 

 

 

 

 

Where do I get the second strand of grey?

If you are brave, you can pull 2 strands from one skein of yarn.  One side border from the middle of the skein and the other side border from the outside.

Otherwise you will need 2 skeins of grey or whatever color you are using for your border.

If making an afghan, you will be using more than one skein for the border anyway so I would recommend using 2 skeins from the start.

 

Join the second strand of border yarn in the same manner as before when starting the body color.

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the last 3 stitches.

 

 

 

 

Now for the return row.  This is where we will start connecting the border and body yarns together as we pick up the next color.

Since we are working the border in garter (still), purl the first 3 pegs on the return row with the grey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we will connect the grey with the pink by twisting the 2 yarns around each other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The easiest way is the bring the yarn you are picking up (the pink) around the back the yarn you are dropping (the grey)

 

 

 

 

 

so that they make a U, hooking them together.

 

 

 

 

 

Knit with the body color back across.  Which for us is 16 stitches to the other border.

 

 

 

 

We will now connect the pink with the grey from the other side in the same manner as before by bringing the yarn we are picking up (the grey) behind the yarn we are going to drop (the pink)

 

 

 

making that same U to connect them.  Then purl the last 3 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

When twisting the 2 strands of yarn together, take care to make sure the twist does not slide to one side or the other.  Keep your tension with the twist even so the twist is right between the pegs.  Or you will get this at your join.  You can see here where I was not careful to keep my twist centered between the stitches.

 

 

Then we repeat our last 2 rows connecting the yarns as we going on EVERY ROW.

Next Row will be as follows:  Knit 3 with the first border yarn.  Pick up the body color yarn.  Twist the 2 strands together.  Drop the border yarn. Knit 16 with the body color. Pick up the 2nd border color yarn.  Twist the 2 strands together.  Drop the body yarn. Knit 3 with the 2nd border yarn.

Next Row after that will repeat the purl border row from above.

But how do I keep my yarn from twisting together?

If you always connect the strands of yarn in the same way each time, the yarn will not get tangled since each row will unwrap the twist in the yarn from the previous row.  This is why the yarn must always be wrapped by bringing the yarn you are ready to pick up and work with behind the yarn you just finished and are ready to drop.

How do I keep the loop where I started the new color from being too loose when I am working the next row?

When working the stitch on the same peg that you joined your new color, gently pull the tail to tighten up the stitch.  Do not pull it too tight though.  Just enough to close up the loose stitch when you go to weave in the end.

If I were to write it out like a “real” pattern, it will look like this after the bottom border.

Row 1:  K3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, K3

Row 2:  P3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, P3

Repeat rows 1 – 2 until the work reaches desired length.

The twisting of the yarn together will always happen but  not be written in the instructions.  Also the colors will most likely be abbreviated with the abbreviations at the beginning of the pattern.

After working my desired number of rows, I am now ready for my top border after finishing a row with purls for the border.

Top Border

When you are ready to work the top border, you can cut the body color yarn and left side border yarn leaving tails long enough to weave in without cutting the right border yarn since this is the yarn we will use to work the top border.  If you are working in the opposite direction from what I am demonstrating then just switch those sides.  Just do NOT cut the side that you just finished the last row with.

Also you will need to start the border with the row of knit if using garter stitch.

I have now worked the top border with 8 rows of garter stitch to match the bottom border.

Bind off in your desired method, weave in those very few ends, and admire your work!

 

 

Now you are armed and ready to amaze people with your ability to loom knit an afghan with a different color border from the body.  So get with it!  *cracking whip*  Amaze us!

 

 

 

 

But above all, have fun!  Enjoy your work and let the loom knitting bring you joy and peace.  Happy loom knitting!

2 Comments

  • Oh, i have been wondering how to do this forever! Thank you soooo very much! I am going to try it!

  • Thank you so much for this tutorial! I actually wanted to make something this way recently and had no idea how to do it.

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Mar 20, 2017

Bamboo Stitch (Double Knit)

Bamboo reminds us of tall erect stalks, and this version of the double knit rib looks very similar.  A very pretty design for most anything worked with even number of stitches.  The wide ribs are formed with 4 stitches in a series, but when opened, you will see lacy opening in center, between the 4 stitches.

bamboo stitch

Since this is a single pass of the loom, we will show illustration of 1st 10 stitches with row #1 and then, the 2nd illustration is row #2.

Bamboo stitch(2)

Row #1:     1          2           3             4              5             6             7             8              9           10

Bamboo stitch(2)

Row #2:     1             2             3           4            5             6              7                8            9             10

The minimum number of stitches to create this pattern would be 6 sts.  After that, add 4 more, so you can do it with 10 sts or 14 sts, 18 sts, or 22 sts, and on.  The reason for this is each row starts with either the 2 single wraps or the double wrap and it needs to end with same wrap.  You can see that the first 2 sts are back/to/back wraps.  The next 2 sts create a square or double wrap.  You keep alternating the 2 stitch series, and end with the series same as you began the row.  The next row or row #2, will start and end with the opposite series.

Look at the illustration and see the row #1 weave, the pegs 1 & 2 are single, pegs 3 & 4 are a double, pegs 5 & 6 are single, and 7 & 8 are a double, and 9 & 10 are single.

The row #2 will start with pegs 1 & 2 double, pegs 3 & 4 single, pegs 5 & 6 double, pegs 7 & 8 single, pegs 9 & 10 are double.  Once you do this a few rows, you will get comfortable with it and see your pretty design emerge.

How do you look at the completed row and know for sure which series you have just completed?  If you look at the illustration carefully, you will notice that with row 1, the yarn ends at peg #10.  That means that you just completed the 2 single pegs, so you want to start the next row with the double pegs.

If you look at row #2, you see that you end with the yarn coming from peg #9, so you just completed the double sts and will start the next row with 2 single sts.

Cast On in pattern(sample), or with stockinette, using row #1 as first row of pattern.  We will show only the first 10 sts.

Row #1:  Weave around peg #1 top, down to peg #1 bottom, up to peg #2 top, and down to peg #2 bottom.  Weave the next 4 pegs per the diagram.  Then next 2 consecutive, and continue across loom.

                                                                                

 

 

After the first row, lay the anchor yarn. Turn the loom around and work row #2. You are now starting with the 4 pegs, then 2 adjacent, then 4 pegs according to diagram.

You are ready to hook over.  Repeat row#1 and hook over.  Repeat row #2, and hook over.

Rib Stitch Variations! Twisted Purl Stitch (tan) Spiraling Rib Stitch (pink), and the Bamboo Stitch (white).

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3 Comments

  • This is a beautiful stitch. Thank you for the tutorial and the diagram really helps!

  • Thank you Cindy. It is fun to do once you get comfortable with the sequence. Pat

  • Thank you so much for sharing the double knit stitches. I prefer to use my boards for double knit, and all the stitchology techniques were beautiful but sadly “one sided”. Look forward to the Twisted Purl.

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Mar 16, 2017

Stitchology 30: Twisted Trellis Stitch

*Updated on March 20, 2017 , specifically Rows 4 & 12 of pattern when working multiple repeats.

The celebration of the Fair Isle has come again…March is the month of St Patrick’s Day!  What better way to put us in the true spirit of all things green and magical than to work a stitch that whorls and twists across the pegs?   If it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Special Stitch Instructions

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The squares in the chart that are highlighted with yellow are fluctuating stitches, depending on how many repeats of the 8 stitch pattern are being worked.  If there is only one set of 8 stitches, these highlighted squares are simply purled.  If, however, there is more than one repeat of the 8 stitches, then these squares become the twists, either right or left, that are noted in the chart and instructions below (see Rows 4 & 12).

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1:  p1, k2, p5

Row 2:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Row 4:  ***When working Row 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Row 6:  p1, LT2, p5

Row 7:   p5, k2, p1

Row 8:   Repeat Row 6

Row 9:   Repeat Row 7

Row 10: Repeat Row 6

Row 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Row 12:  ***When working Row 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Row 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Row 14:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 15:  Repeat Row 1

Row 16:  Repeat Row 2

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Round 1:  p1, k2, p5

Round 2:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Round 4:  ***When working Round 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Round 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Round 6:  p5, LT2, p1

Round 7:   p5, k2, p1

Round 8:   Repeat Row 6

Round 9:   Repeat Row 7

Round 10: Repeat Row 6

Round 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Round 12:  ***When working Round 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Round 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions:  p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Round 14:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 15:  Repeat Row 1

Round 16:  Repeat Row 2

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

7 Comments

  • This is a very cute stitch pattern and I like the new format. Thanks for taking the time to introduce us to differnt stitch patterns and the full instructions. Would the look of the backside be suitable for a scarf? Or better worked in the round as a tube scarf? I am currently working on the barber pole stitch pattern and I cant loom quick enough to try this one!

  • Hi CindyB! :) I’m so pleased you’ve been liking both the stitches and the new format.

    The back of this stitch is pretty cute! It almost looks like mermaid scales, or reversed honeycomb. It would make a nice scarf, in my opinion. :)

    Bethany~

  • I had a question on row 4
    ***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, end p1

    As written, the stitch count is 12 stitches . So if i do two repeats of the stitch pattern, That would be 20 stitches? Rows 1-3 are multiples of 8 so how do i make up the difference of 4 stitches on rows 1-3? Sorry to ask…

  • Hi Cindy :) Please don’t ever be sorry for asking a question. I’m always happy to help! …and in this case, you actually helped *me*! :D

    Okay…this part is a little bit confusing, so let me see if I can help explain in another way. If you look at the chart for the repeating stitch pattern, you’ll see that in Row 4 the pattern sort of overlaps itself where it actually extends into two extra stitches on each side of the 8 pegs of the pattern. This row, with those stitches in place, actually begins with a right twist. Because the pattern won’t be beginning the row with a peg it doesn’t actually have, this right twist won’t happen yet. You will start the row with 3 purls, just this first time through the repeat. Then you’ll begin working the pattern repeat: LT2, p2, RT2, p2. Where I actually ended up adjusting the pattern was where to put that little ‘ol asterisk. It should be in front of the RT2 so that the repeating pattern will end with the LT2, p2. The corrections are now included in the pattern above.

    For your convenience, your instructions all written out for 2 repeats of the pattern would be:
    p3, LT2, p2, RT2, p2, LT2, p2, p1. = 16 pegs. :)

    Thanks for checking in so that we could get this nailed down!
    Bethany~

  • Thank you for the help Bethany. I am starting my scarf tonight.

  • I am trying to make the squares as we were doing previously on the loom
    I went to the Ravelry site and found the pattern with the squares that have symbols for the different stitches
    But the rows are different and Rt2 is sometimes LT2 due to the even and odd rows being different?
    If I follow your pattern and just add the border 2 rows will it come out ok?
    Also is there a way to copy the Ravelry chart enlarged?
    I’ve been trying for days to do this
    HELP. PLEASE
    Thanks

  • Hi Ginny :)

    The actual row numbers of the entire square pattern will differ a bit from the Repeating Stitch Pattern, because there have been added additional rows and stitches into the square’s design. Because of this, you won’t use the video to make the square as written. You can learn the stitches through the video, then use the chart’s instructions to work the square correctly. The instructions will generally be the same…it’s just the row numbers that will be different. Also, please see the notes below the video (as well as here in the pattern post), as there were a couple rows that were adjusted. ;)

    As for saving the chart from Ravelry, simply click on the chart so that it is featured in the pop-out style, right click on the photo and choose the “Save As” option to save to your computer.
    Hope that all helps get you going!
    Bethany~

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Mar 7, 2017

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

  • I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
    Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
    Can you clarify this for me in some way?

  • Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
    Should there be a yo there?

  • Ginny, what number is this row?

  • Ginny,
    At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
    Row 1: k to end of row.
    Row 2: p to end of row.
    These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

    The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
    Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
    Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
    The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

    Hope the above helps.

  • The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
    Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?

  • No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

    Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.

  • Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
    Now I feel ready to start
    The shawl is gorgeous
    I just hope I can make it
    Thanks for all the help

  • Sorry me again
    I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

    The explanation indicates
    Over 3 pegs
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
    Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
    Knit peg 3
    Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
    Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

    The pattern has
    Yo,CDD,yo
    Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
    Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

    Is there avideo on this or can there be one?

  • How do you do a CDD?

  • Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.

  • I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

    This is the way I would do it:
    3 2 1

    Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
    Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
    Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

    You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

    Hope the above helps.

  • Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
    I need clarification
    Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
    Or
    Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
    Or
    Does it mean something else?
    Thank you once again for your help

  • You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/

  • Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love

  • What method of cast on do you use.

  • Hello,
    Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
    Any help is appreciated

  • This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?

  • The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.

  • Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Deb,

    The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you so much for the video Isela
    It makes things clearer for a newbie
    Much thanks

  • I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

    Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

    Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

    I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

    Thanks! appreciate it.

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Feb 26, 2017

Spring in the Ozarks Poncho

Spring in the Ozark Mountains consist of cold mornings, warm afternoons, and cool evenings.  Light weight ponchos are great for keeping warm when needed.

The Spring in the Ozarks Poncho is knit in 100% cotton making it the perfect poncho for spring and summer.  The unique asymmetrical design allows for more than one way to wear it.  Bright colors make it fun to wear.

LOOM:  28” Loom with Extenders

YARN:  820 yds of worsted weight cotton yarn.  Cascade Yarns Luna in color #9994 used in sample (100% hand-painted Peruvian cotton, 164 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  med adult

 

 

 

 

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

k2tog=knit 2 together

p2tog=purl 2 together

YO=yarn over (e-wrap peg.  Undo the wrap and place in front of peg before working the stitch on the next row.)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 CO 168 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P2tog, k to end

R3 – 4:  Rep rows 1 – 2 once

R5:  eyelet row K1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to last peg, K1

R6:  P2tog, k to end

Continue decreasing every other row by repeating rows 1 – 2 until only 2 stitches remain

Next row:  K2

Next row:  P2tog

Cut working yarn leaving a tail approx. 30” long for seaming.  Bind off by pulling the yarn tail through the last stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold the triangle in half with the long side together.

Seam the 2 sides together using the mattress stitch starting with the bind off point even with the eyelet on the other side.

 

Seam for approx. 20” leaving the rest open for the head and neck.

 

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 Comments

  • This is the first loom pattern I have truly loved. I plan to print it so I can make it. Great job!

  • I meant for a clothing item.

  • I love this! I hope to make it!

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Feb 20, 2017

Loom FAQs: Is It Garter, Rib, or Seed Stitch?

 

 

 

 

 

The great thing about learning the purl stitch is that when combined with the knit stitch the possibilities seem to become limitless.  There are lots of stitch patterns that only include a combination of knit and purl stitches.

But the first ones learned include garter, rib, and seed stitches.  This is when the confusion comes into play.  All 3 include the instructions of 1 of knit and 1 of purl.  Beginners tend to get this confused.  Does K1, P1 mean rows or stitches?  What makes rib and seed different?  Why does my seed stitch not look correct?  Why does my rib stitch look weird?  You mean to tell me that isn’t the garter stitch?  But that is what I was told…  It goes on and on.

Let’s begin with our basic stitches again.  I won’t go into all the knit stitches since you can find all that information in Loom FAQs:  Which Knit Stitch??.  It explains the different names and way of working the knit stitch on a knitting loom.  But I will recap the true knit stitch and the purl stitch here for convenience.

 

What is the difference between the true knit stitch and the purl stitch?

Working the true or traditional knit stitch is very similar to how a purl stitch is worked.  There really is only 1 difference.  The purl is basically a backward knit stitch so you are just working the knit stitch backward.

Now I know that statement was confusing so let’s see how each stitch is worked through the magic of photography.

Knit Stitch

In patterns when it says knit and doesn’t specify which method of knit stitch, it most likely means to use the true knit stitch.  The other methods except e-wrap are just for ease or tension purposes.  The reason that I do not include e-wrap in that statement is that e-wrap is a twisted knit stitch and will give the finished work a different look.

 

 

To work the knit stitch, bring the working yarn across the TOP of the loop on the peg.

Then bring the loom pick from the bottom, up through the loop, and catch the working yarn.

 

 

 

 

Pull the working yarn down through the loop on the peg creating a new loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take the old loop off the peg and place the new loop on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tighten the stitch.  Remember not to pull it too tight.  Just snug around a the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Purl Stitch

There is only 1 way to work the purl stitch.  And it is not spelled pearl.  Pearls are what is not suppose to be before swine.  Purls are for knitting.

 

To work the purl stitch, bring the working yarn across the BOTTOM of the loop on the peg.  This is where the confusion between the knit and purl stitch happens.

Then bring the loom pick from the top, down through the loop, and catch the working yarn.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the working yarn up through the loop on the peg creating a new loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take the old loop off the peg and place the new loop on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tighten the stitch.  Remember not to pull it too tight.  Just snug around a the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To recap, the knit stitch is from the top, and the purl is from the bottom.

 

Knit & Purl Stitch Patterns

Now on to the different stitches created by using both knit and purl stitches.  Since I will be writing out the instructions like they are written in patterns, you can refresh your memory on how to read a pattern in Loom FAQs:  How Do I Read A Pattern?

Also if you need a refresher on how to identify a knit stitch from a purl stitch, you can read how in Loom FAQs:  Is It A Knit Or Purl?

Abbreviations

K:  Knit

P:  Purl

 

Garter Stitch

Garter Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Row 1:  K all

Row 2:  P all

Repeat rows 1 – 2

 

What is a garter ridge?

Garter stitch is always written by rows.  2 rows equals 1 garter ridge.  Therefore if a pattern says to work a certain number of garter ridges, you will need to work twice that many rows since each ridge is equal to 2 rows.

 

Rib Stitch

1×1 Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stretched 1×1 Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a few variations of the rib stitch.  1×1 rib is what I will explain.  There is also a 2×2 rib and 3×3 rib stitches.

Row 1:  *K1, P1, repeat from * to end

Repeat row 1.

When working the rib stitch, each row must have the knits on the same pegs as the knit stitches and purls on the same pegs as the purl stitches in previous row/round for each row/round.  This makes the columns of knits and purls that creates the ribbing.

 

What if I am working in the round with an odd number peg count?

You will then need to add an extra knit or purl on that last peg before starting the new round.  I like adding an extra purl since it will not be noticed as much as an extra knit.  As you can see in the pictures above, the purls like to hide between the knit stitches.

 

Which version of the rib stitch is the stretchiest?

2×2 ribbing is the stretchiest of the rib stitches which makes it the best choice for cuffs on socks.

2×2 Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stretched 2×2 Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seed Stitch

Seed Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Due to the nature of seed stitch, the stitch pattern is written differently depending on if it’s a flat panel or in the round and whether it is even or odd stitch count.

 

For even number peg counts on flat panels:

Row 1:  *K1, P1, repeat from * to end

Repeat row 1.

 

For even number peg counts in the round:

Round 1:  *K1, P1, repeat to the end

Round 2:  *P1, K1, repeat to the end

Repeat rounds 1 – 2.

 

For odd number peg counts on flat panels:

Row 1:  *K1, P1, repeat from * to the next to last peg, K1

Row 2:  *P1, K2, repeat from * to the next to the last peg, P1

Repeat rows 1 – 2.

 

For odd number peg counts in the round:

Round 1:  *K1, P1, repeat to last peg, K1

Round 2:  *P1, K1, repeat to the last peg, P1

Repeat rounds 1 – 2.

 

What makes seed stitch different from rib stitch?

While the rib stitch has the columns of knits and purls, seed stitch must have the knits on top of the purls of the previous row and purls on top of the knits of the previous row.  This is why the peg count makes the instructions different between even peg counts and odd peg counts.

 

What is the difference between seed stitch and moss stitch?

The seed stitch and the moss stitch are the exact same stitch.  Just depends on where you live what this stitch is called.

 

Do any of these stitches curl?

No.  When worked correctly, all 3 of these stitches will not curl making them all great options for hat brims and borders for flat panels.

Also the back of the these stitches are the same as the front.

 

I really do hope this helps explain the differences between these 3 stitches that all involve 1 of knit and 1 of purl.  It can be confusing at first.  But carry on!  Work a swatch with each one.  This will help get it in your brain better on how each one is different.

Then you will be ready for the plethora of other stitch patterns that only use knit and purl stitches.

Happy loom knitting!

 

5 Comments

  • When I first saw this stitch up close (above), it reminded me of the Eiffel Tower ;) I love it!

  • I just love the design of this poncho – but do not have a loom. Could this be adapted for hand knitting on needles and if so how as I’m not to adventurous and could not be able to transform it.
    Thank you in advance

  • I have recently purchased the shorty socks kit, utilizing the KB Sock Loom 2. The written instructions for the shorty socks, indicate as follows:

    Rd 1-8: *k2 p2; repeat from * to end of round

    Rd 9 and 10 *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.

    I understand the concept of the 2×2, My question is what is the difference between the two instructions. For some reason I’m missing it. In my mind if they were the same, the instruction would have been written as Rd 1-10. Please advise. Thank you

  • The stitch pattern for the leg portion starts at Rnd 9. It is the same as the previous round, but it is there to show that it is part of the leg portion, not the cuff.

  • I’m pretty much a beginner at loom knitting, even though I’ve been loom knitting for a few years, as I work, take care of my kid etc and don’t have a lot of time to knit. Recently I started making a cowl on an oval loom for my daughter. I believe I started out using the e wrap for one row, then the purl for the next row. I thought I was using the knit stitch but looked on YouTube, and saw the knit stitch as pretty much an upside down or backward (?) Purl. I had only done a few rows of e wrap so I changed to the other knit stitch. It looks pretty good. I didn’t realize there were so many ways to do a knit stitch. Am I knitting the garter stitch? Where can I buy your looms? Do you sell any books on loom knitting?

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Feb 20, 2017

Spiraling Rope Stitch (double knit)

This is a version of a favorite Rib Stitch in Double Knit. These wide ribs will make a great sweater, vest or blanket.  Even our beginners will enjoy a new twist to the knit/rib stitch.

stitch_purple

This Spiraling Rope Stitch reminds us of a wide rib, but it’s actually a shifting rib, front to back. It’s also great for a scarf or afghan that gets flipped over and over. Can’t tell the front from the back. It’s very stretchy and fun to work up.

Each rib is approximately 3/4″ wide and the inset is the center of the rib on opposite side, so it shifts after each set of double stitches.

 

spiral rope purple

0      1           2          3           4          5          6           7          8            9          10          1         12

Loom: 10” knitting loom, or any loom with 21+ pegs with a width of 1 cm between the rails.

In this stitch, you will work with any amount of stitches divisible by 3.

Yarn: Worsted weight #4 wool or blend. Our sample is worked with Lion Brand Heartland Worsted weight yarn.

Abbreviations:  L=left, R=right

Instructions:

Cast On 21 stitches (or as many as desired with multiple of 3).  Start on L end of loom on top peg 3.

Step 1: Place slipknot on peg 3 top.

Step 2: Come down to lower peg 3 and wrap counter-clockwise.

Step 3: Take yarn up to peg 6 top wrapping clockwise, and then down to lower peg 6 counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Skip 2 pegs and take yarn up to peg 9 top wrapping clockwise, and then down to lower peg 9 and wrap counter-clockwise.

Step 5: Continue across the loom till you have wrapped the last stitch of your pattern. In our sample, we are illustrating only the first 12 stitches.  Notice on the last wrap, the yarn goes around the outside of pegs.  Turn loom around.

Step 6-the return: Take yarn to first of 2 empty pegs, peg 10 top and down to lower peg 11. Continue up to top peg 11 wrapping in counter-clockwise direction. Continue down to lower peg 10, wrapping in clockwise direction.

Step 7: Work all empty pegs in same manner until you end at lower peg 1. Lay anchor yarn.

Repeat all steps 1 thru 7 in each row. Work until your square/project is as long as desired. Bind off at loom and anchor yarn once complete.

Note:  You may like to start with a Stockinette cast on, and one row of stockinette at end of work for easy bind offs.  This is done in sample.

Let’s look at the Spiraling Rope on the loom with each step:  After cast on, starting with the 3rd peg, wrap to end of stitches.  Return by wrapping last pegs straight across at end of loom.  Follow diagram and wrap all empty pegs as you return

Here you are completing the wrap.  And then last photo is a completed row, ready to hook over.  Just continue weaving this row until the knitted piece is as long as desired, or you feel that you have learned the Spiraling Rib stitch.

 

Rib Stitch Variations! Twisted Purl Stitch (tan) Spiraling Rib Stitch (pink), and the Bamboo Stitch (white).

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3 Comments

  • I especially like that bamboo stitch. Have you ever shown how to do that one before?

  • I love all of these. I hope we can learn the other two variations…tan and cream. Thank you for the how to instructions and the Diagram is an awesome addition.

  • I like the twisted purl and the bamboo?

    Do you have a video for it?

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