I’ve been pleased as punch with the way this month’s stitch turned out…so sweet! There’s something special about the pairing of bunnies and spring, and this new stitch exemplifies them both quite nicely. :) Wouldn’t this be a fantastic stitch for a little girl’s jumper, or a baby layette? There is a bit of an unusual method for working the bunny ears, but it really is very simple to do. I have included a tutorial video for this one, since the technique may be new to you. Let’s dive in and learn this pretty design while whipping up an afghan square…
In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.
Spring Bunnies Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage sakura)
Notions: Loom tool, crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.
There are two types of decreases for creating the eyelets in this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning decrease worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning decrease worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:
[k2tog, yo]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, u-stitch knit the k2tog peg, knitting off the 2 loops as one, and then e-wrap the empty yo peg.
[yo, ssk]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap empty yo peg, then u-stitch knit the ssk peg, knitting off the bottom 2 loops as one.
Making the Bunny Ears:
Where you see the symbol in the below charts for “Make new drop loop”, this is the peg which the bunny ears will be created and secured. The steps to do so are as follows: (The “bunny ears” pegs are worked from right to left, with the numbers in this direction: 1, 2, 3, 4.)
—Knit the first 2 pegs of the 4 bunny ears pegs (pegs 4 & 3).
—Insert a crochet hook between pegs 2 & 3 of the 4 and poke it through the eyelet directly below.
—Wrap WY around crochet hook and pull a new loop though the eyelet and out the front of the pegs.
—Lift the loop 3 and pass newly made loop behind the peg. Replace the loop 3.
—Lift the loop 4 and pass the right side of the newly made loop over the peg. Replace the loop 4. Cinch newly made loop in, but not too tightly.
—Knit pegs 2 & 1 of the 4.
—Again insert the crochet hook between pegs 2 & 3 and poke it through the same eyelet directly below.
—Wrap WY around crochet hook and pull a new loop through the eyelet and out the front of the pegs.
—Lift the loop 2 and pass newly made loop behind the peg. Replace loop 2.
—Lift the loop 1 and pass the left side of the newly made loop over the peg. Replace the loop 1. Cinch newly made loop in, but not too tightly.
—Continue with the rest of the row.
—The next row will work all pegs 1 and 4 of the bunny ears pegs as 2 over 1. Make sure that these 2 pegs are worked without much tension throughout.
Repeating Pattern Rows
Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Row 1: p1, , k2, p1, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk.
Row 2: k8.
Row 3: k4, make a new drop loop (see above instructions in Pattern Notes), k2, make a new drop loop.
Row 4: k8, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.
Row 5: k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1.
Row 6: k8.
Row 7: make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4.
Row 8: k8, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Row 1: p38.
Row 2: k38.
Row 3: p38.
Row 4: k38.
Main Pattern Rows
Row 5: p2, k5, *k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 6: k38.
Row 7: p2, k5, *make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 8: k38, working drop loop pegs as 2 over 1.
Row 9: p2, k1, *k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 10: k38.
Row 11: p2, k1, *make a new drop loop, k2, make a new drop loop, k4, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 12: repeat Row 8.
Row 13: p2, k1, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 14: k38.
Rows 15-54: repeat Rows 7-14.
Rows 55-59: repeat Rows 7-11.
Row 60: k38.
Row 61: p38.
Row 62: k38.
Row 63: p38.
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)
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Designed by Bethany A Dailey
With the first seasonal turns of winter into spring, warming winds wrap themselves around mountain peaks, sending waters of thawing snow caps cascading downwards into the welcoming valleys below. The craggy rocks beneath the crests begin to peek out through the ice and snow, bringing with them the hope of wildflowers and new life after the season of cold. This asymmetrical shawl embodies this feeling of winter giving way to spring…a little bit blanketed, a little bit revealed, just like those thawing mountain peaks.
Knitting Loom: Zippy Loom, 20 pegs used.
Yarn: Approximately 465 yards of bulky weight yarn, two strands held as one. Sample used Charisma Tweed (5 skeins in the color Gray) 93 yds/85 m.
Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter, one or two large decorative buttons.
Gauge: Approx 3 sts x 1.75 rows= 4 inches (in Figure Eight Stitch) **Note: This is a very stretchy stitch, so all measurements are approximate.
Finished Measurements: Width from neck to elbow: 15″, Length before seaming: 74″, Length at longest point while worn: 36″ (The size of this shawl can easily be adjusted by changing the number of pegs used and rows knitted.)
Skills Needed: E-wrap, Figure Eight Stitch, Chain CO (or CO of your choice), Basic BO, seaming method of choice.
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BO: bind off
This pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held throughout.
*Create the Figure Eight Stitch (in single knitting):
- —To begin, wrap around the outside of peg 1, then around peg 2 as if to EW. Your WY will travel in a sort of figure 8 motion, hence the name of the stitch. KO these 2 pegs.
- —Carrying the yarn behind peg 2, wrap around peg 3 as if to EW, then back around peg 2. KO these 2 pegs.
- —Carrying the yarn behind peg 3, wrap around peg 4 as if to EW, then back around peg 3. KO these 2 pegs.
- —Continue in this manner to the end of the row.
See tutorial video for more details:
Set loom to work in a flat panel using 20 pegs. CO onto all 20 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)
Rows 1-52: Work Figure Eight Stitch on all 20 pegs.
**Note: Due to the loose nature of this stitch, when adding a new skein, tie the end of the WY and the beginning of the new skein securely into a square knot. Thread one of the tails onto a yarn needle and work into the strands of the WY at one side of the knot, parting the plies in the yarn to help the end remain secure. Repeat for the 2nd tail.
Loosely BBO all 20 pegs.
Being careful not to pull too tightly which will cause puckering, neatly stitch the inside edges of the panel together, starting at the bottom edges, for approximately 21″ (sample uses the mattress stitch). Stitch the button(s) in place as desired onto the back side of the remaining opening.
Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.
To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)
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Video one shows Rows 1-3.
Video 2 shows Row 4.
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In part one, we cover set up of the loom and we work through the first 8 rounds of the hat. At the end of Part I, you will have the brim done–the part with the ribbing of the hat.
Gather your materials and let’s get started!
Round 9: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round.
(How to: *Move the loop from the first peg over to the second peg, first peg is empty, second peg has 2 loops on it. E-wrap the first peg thus creating the YO. Then ewrap the second peg, lift the bottommost two loops off the peg. Repeat from * to the end of round)
Round 10: Knit with the e-wrap method.
Round 11: Move stitch marker one peg to the left (peg 2). This peg (peg 2) becomes Peg 1. *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round. (How to: see Row 9 on the break down).
Round 12: Knit with the e-wrap method.
Part 3 will be posted next week–it will cover the Gather Bind off.
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