Browsing articles tagged with " free patterns"
May 2, 2016

Bunnies on Parade-Stitchology 21

Spring has sprung and apparently I can’t think about anything other than sweet little bunny rabbits while knitting!  I simply meant to do an interesting new technique for May’s Stitchology, and guess what?  It came out with bunnies prancing across the square in neat and orderly rows. I’m definitely not one to deny my love for those furry creatures, so bunny rabbits it is! :)  The neat thing about this stitch is that the backside is really pretty too, and looks like an entirely different stitch altogether.  Because of this, Bunnies on Parade would be a terrific stitch for making items that can be reversible such as blankets, hats, scarves…you name it!

It’s Reversible!

Back Side of Stitch

Back Side of Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Bunnies on Parade Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in banane)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

 

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 2—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

The abbreviation “wy” stands for “working yarn”.

 

*There are two types of Slip Stitches in this stitch pattern.  They are worked in the following ways:

s1: Slip one stitch with working yarn in back (worked over one peg) 

How to do it: *Simply carry the working yarn behind the peg, without working the loop on the peg.

s2wyif/p2:  Slip two stitches with working yarn in front, then purl the same two stitches (worked over 2 pegs, from right to left)

How to do it

*Lift the loop from peg #1 and carry the working yarn in the space in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace held loop. Repeat for peg #2.

*Bring the working yarn around to the back of peg #2, and carry behind both pegs #2 and #1, finally bringing around to the front of peg #1 again.

*Purl pegs #1 and #2.

**Note: See the tutorial video at the bottom of this post for a more visual instruction tool. 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Stitchology 21- Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Bunnies on Parade-close back

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P40

Row 2:  K40

Row 3:  P40

Row 4:  K40

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: P3, *s2wyif/p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6: K3, *p1, s1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: P3, *s1, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8: K40

Rows 9-68:  Rep Rows 5-8.

Finishing Rows

Row 69: P40

Row 70:  K40

Row 71:  P40

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

 

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

2 Comments

  • I’m wanting to make a shaw with finger lace weight yarn using the “star stitch.” I have only found 1 video on you tube but it’s using a “bulky” yarn. But I’m afraid that my loom’s & that the yarn is to fine for my project. Do you think my project “can” be completed on a loom? I’m afraid that because my yarn is to fine it may not work!
    Thank you for your time.
    CH

  • Hi Cindy :)

    I think it would be possible, but you will need to match your yarn with the properly gauged loom. A fine gauge, or extra fine gauge loom might be the best for you. You can always try a small section of the pattern as a swatch to see how it will come out…only way to know for sure if you like the results. ;)

    Best of luck to you!

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Feb 1, 2016

Stitchology 18: Hugs & Kisses

 

XOXOX, a symbol for hugs and kisses, is a term used for expressing sincerity, faith, love, or good friendship at the end of a written letter, email, or text message.  This practice has been in use clear back into the Middle Ages. Since most of the common people could not read or write, the ‘X’ was placed on documents, and a kiss was placed over it as a show of their sincerity.  The ‘o’ physically resembles a hug, and has joined the ‘X’ near signatures as a perfect pair to express love and friendship.  With Valentine’s Day coming up this month, it’s a perfect time to learn this stitch. :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Hugs & Kisses Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10 for repeats of the same column, or 20 for repeats of the 2 alternating columns.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap…except in the row before working the cables, as noted below.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 4 pegs in the correct order.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to e-wrap the knit stitches that sit right in line with the cable pegs in the row before the cable row to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. Simply untwist the e-wrap loops when creating the cables.

[2/2RC]:  Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loops from the 2 right pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right pegs first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the right.
  • Knit the 2 stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty left pegs and knit them.  Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

[2/2LC]: Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the 2 left pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the left.
  • Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty right pegs and knit them. Knit the 2 stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

 

Chart-Key-Hugs & Kisses

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Rows 1 & 2:  p1, k8, p2, k8, p1.

(**Note: if you need extra room to cross those cable stitches, you can read Row 2 (and all rows right before a cable row) as: p1, ew8, p2, ew8, p1. Just make sure to untwist the e-wraps while working the cables.)

Row 3: p1, 2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p1.

Rows 4-6: rep Row 1.

Row 7: rep Row 3.

Rows 8-10: rep Row 1.

Row 11: p1, 2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p1.

Rows 12-14: rep Row 1.

Row 15: rep Row 11.

Row 16: rep Row 1.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Hugs n Kisses angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Rows 1-4: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5:  k2, p1, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p1, k2.

Row 6: p3, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p3.

hugs n kisses close(**Note: the k8’s can be e-wraps here…see notes above.)

Row 7:  k2, p1, *2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Row 8: rep Row 6.  (**Use regular knits/u-stitches here.)

Row 9: rep Row 5.

Row 10: rep Row 6. (**The k8’s can be e-wraps…see notes above.)

Row 11: rep Row 7.

Rows 12-14: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 15: k2, p1, *2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Rows 16-18: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 19: rep Row 15.

Row 20: rep Row 8.

Row 21-60: Repeat Rows 5-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-64: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Wonderful!

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Dec 7, 2015

The Evergreen Square

Loom Knitting Advent Day 7 brings you…

Stitchology 16: The Evergreen Stitch!

Evergreen Stitch

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Nothing says winter is upon us like the sight and smell of evergreens.  How appropriate to celebrate the season with a stitch square that echoes those majestic, green forests.  This stitch has some simple twists and 2 over 1 cables, along with a few shaping stitches to help create the illusion of evergreen boughs.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

The Evergreen Square

Evergreen close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in clary)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

There are two ways of creating decreases for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning decrease, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning decrease. For this pattern, they are each combined with a Yarn Over (yo), as seen in Row 9. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one.

[k2tog, yo]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the k2tog peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[ssk, yo]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the ssk peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one.

The cables in this pattern include both 2 peg twists and 3 peg cross overs.

The twists involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[rt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right. Place the held loop onto the peg on the left. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left. Place the held loop onto the peg on the right. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant. So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right. For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

The cables involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a 3 stitch right cable [2/1RC] (a cable with the sts running to the right), and a 3 stitch left cable [2/1LC] (a cable with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

[2/1RC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.

If working from the R-L: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.

If working from the R-L: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you! It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above. I promise! :) )

Row 1: p2, k2, p10.
Row 2: p3, k2, p5, k2, p2.
Row 3: k6, p3, k2, p3.
Row 4: p3, k2, p3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 5: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 6: p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, p1, k6.
Row 7: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 8: p1, k6, p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC.
Row 9: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 10: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 11: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 12: p1, k6, p2, rt2, lt2, p1.
Row 13: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 14: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p1.
Row 15: p2, k2, p4, k4, p2.
Row 16: k2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p4, k2, p2.
Row 17: p9, k2, p3.
Row 18: p3, k2, p9.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Evergreen angleSet Up Rows

Row 1: p40.
Row 2: k40.
Row 3: p40.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4: k2, p3, *k2, p12, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 5: p5, *k2, p5, repeat from * to end.
Row 6: k2, p1, k6, *p3, k2, p3, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 7: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3, k2, p3, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 9: p3, k6, p1, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 10: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, k6, p1, repeat from * once, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p3.
Row 12: repeat row 10.
Row 13: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 14: k2, *p2, k4, p2, k6, repeat from * once, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 15: p4, *lt2, rt2, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, lt2, rt2, p4.
Row 16: k2, p2, *k4, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, k4, p2, k2.
Row 17: p4, *yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p2, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p2, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4.
Evergreen front angleRow 18: k2, p3, *k2, p4, k4, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 19: p5, *k2, p4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p5.
Row 20: k2, p10, k2, p12, k2, p10, k2.
Row 21: p12, k2, p12, k2, p12.
Rows 22-57: repeat rows 4-21.

Finishing Rows

Row 58: k12, p2, k12, p2, k12.
Row 59: p40.
Row 60: k40.
Row 61: p40.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

Day_7

1 Comment

  • That’s pretty sweet!

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Oct 30, 2015

Stitchology 15

Raised Circles Stitch

Happy Fall! :D

Last October, our Stitchology column focused on making circles using the Puff Stitch to resemble those rotund symbols of autumn…pumpkins!  I thought it would be fitting to work up another square this year that brings those big orange gourds to mind, but rather than raising the center, we’d raise the outline of the circles—meet the Raised Circles Stitch.  It is an exercise in cable making, chart reading, and row counting…but the results are definitely worth it! This stitch could also be used to simulate candle flames or ornaments for the holidays, or as my daughter exclaimed when she first saw the square: pieces of eight! ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Raised Circles Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in rust)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They are all worked essentially the same, no matter the direction of knitting.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[2/1RC]:  Worked over 3 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
  • Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.
    • If working from the R-L:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
    • If working from the L-R:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.
    • If working from the R-L:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
    • If working from the L-R:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Row 1:  k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 2: k16.

Row 3: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 4: k16.

Row 5: p2, k12, p2.

Row 6: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 7: k16.

Row 8: k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k1.

Row 9: k16.

Row 10: k6, p4, k6.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p38.

Row 2: k38.

Row 3: p38.

Row 4: k38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p3, k6, p4, k12, p4, k6, p3.

Row 6:  k4, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: p3, k32, p3.

Row 8: k3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: p3, k32, p3.

Row 10: k3, p2, k12, p4, k12, p2, k3.

Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: k38.

Row 13: p3, *k1, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k1, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 14: k38.

Row 15-60: Repeat Rows 5-14.

Finishing Rows

Row 61: p38.

Row 62: k38.

Row 63: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Beautiful work, Bethany!

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Aug 10, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – August 2015

Mini Monkey

One mini monkey, just as cute as can be
Lounging on a banana bunch saying “You can knit me!  You can knit me!”
so out comes some yarn, some fluff, and the Sock Loom EFG
and you’ve knit a darling monkey, just as quick as can be!

minimonkey

Materials

Knitting Loom:  Sock Loom EFG

Yarn:  Small amount of fingering weight yarn in two different colors.

MC = Knit Picks Stroll Hand Painted Sock Yarn

CC = Knit Picks Bare Stroll Fingering Sock Yarn

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing, needle and black embroidery thread to embroider eyes, mouth and nose.

Finished Size:  Approximately 4” in height.

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Abbreviations:

MC = main color

CC = contrast color

Sl = Slip

K = Knit

K2tog = Knit 2 together

M1 = Make 1

Special Techniques:

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monkey’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

K2tog:  Decrease- worked over two pegs.  Move the stitch from the first peg over to the second peg.  Knit both stitches on the second peg together as one.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double e-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 5”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, then remove the cord from the loom.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.

4 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double e-wrap cast-on method, cast on 4 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 4.  Take the working yarn behind peg 3, peg 2, and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  Knit peg 3, then peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 4.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. Move the stitch from peg 4 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch.  With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 5”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, then remove the cord from the loom.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.

Make 1:  Increase.  For the purposes of this project, simply cast on a new stitch with the double e-wrap method when M1 is indicated in the pattern.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 24 pegs, in the round.  With MC, cast on 24 stitches using the drawstring cast-on method.  Work 15 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

Work 25 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.

Pull the ends of the gathering thread to cinch in and shape the neck area.  Tightly tie the ends together to secure the shaping.  Weave these yarn tails in.

Firmly stuff the head section.  Pull the yarn tail from the cast on to gather the top of the head closed.  Weave this yarn tail in.

Lightly stuff the body section.  Gently pull the yarn tail from the gathered bind off, gathering just until the bottom of the monkey starts to drawn in and become a bit rounded.  The shape will be a bit like a bowling pin.  There will still be a small opening on the bottom of the monkey.  Whip stitch this opening closed, then weave in the yarn tail. Set aside.

Ears (Make 2):

Leave a 5” yarn tail.  With MC, cast on 4 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rows 1-3: Sl 1, K3.

Row 4: Sl 1, K1, K2tog.

Bind off using the basic bind off method.  Set aside.

Limbs (Make 4):

With CC, cast on 4 stitches.  Work a 4 stitch I-cord for four rows.  Switch to MC.  Work the 4 stitch I-cord for 12 more rows.  Bind off , leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Tail:

With CC, cast on 3 stitches.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for four rows.  Switch to MC.  Work the 3 stitch I-cord for 16 more rows.  Bind off, leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Set aside.

Face:

Leave a 10″ yarn tail.  With CC, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Sl 1, K3, M1.

Row 2: Sl 1, K4, M1.

Row 3: Sl 1, K5, M1.

Rows 4-6: Sl 1, K6.

Row 7: Sl 1, K3, K2tog, K1.

Row 8: Sl 1, K2, K2tog, K1.

Row 9: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K1.

Bind off with basic bind off method.  Using the 10″ yarn tail, sew the face piece on to the front of the monkey’s head, with the purl side facing out.  Weave in both yarn tails.

Finishing:

Using the long yarn tails from the cast on, sew an ear to each side of the monkey’s head.  Weave in both yarn tails for each ear.

Using the long yarn tails from the bind off, sew a limb (arms) to each side of the monkey’s body, near the neckline.  Weave in all yarn tails for these limbs.

Using the long yarn tails from the bind off, sew two limbs (legs) on at the bottom of the monkey’s body.  Weave in all yarn tails for these limbs.

Using the long yarn tail from the bind off, sew the tail to the back of the monkey’s body  Weave in all yarn tails.

Using the needle and black embroidery thread, add eyes, nostrils, and a mouth to the little monkey’s face section.

 

Feel free to ‘go bananas’ and knit a whole ‘barrel full of monkeys’!

6 Comments

  • Jenny, he is so adorable!!! I love him and I want to knit him :)

  • Thank you, Isela! I’m glad you like him :)

  • He is ridiculously cute, Jenny! :D I love how he’s posed on those bananas, too! So fun! :)

  • Thank you, Bethany! He does look pretty happy lounging there on the banana bunch, doesn’t he? ;)

  • This is just awesome, Jenny! I love that sweet little monkey face! I think this is one of my favorite little patterns yet!

  • Thank you, Brenda! I appreciate your kind comment.

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