Browsing articles from "February, 2019"
Feb 22, 2019

Chickie Baby Sweater

If you have a little one to take out into the cold, you’ll love this adorable sweater with ‘Chickie’ design.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom or 28″ Loom + extenders, 34 double stitches with 2cm spacing

STITCHES:  Stockinette, Crisscross, and Rib

YARN:  Super soft Baby Grande Alpaca  by Plymouth Yarns, 110 yds per skein.  #5 Bulky, Maroon (M) = 3 balls, Soft Green (G)=1 ball

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook

SIZES:  Toddler size:  small (medium) Measurements are taken with sweater lying flat. All measurements are approximate.

Toddler Size, Small (Medium): Chest at underarm: 11”  (13”) Hemline at hip: 10”  (12”)  Length neck to hem  11”  (11”) Sleeve to wrist: 5” (6”)

GAUGE:  5 stitches X 6 rows=2 inches

Design of Sweater: Sleeves are raglan for comfort, front open neckline with drawstring.

This little sweater is easy to adjust since it is all knit in stockinette for the body and crisscross stitch for the hem and cuffs, and rib for the neckline.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Sweater Front

Cast On 30 (34) stitches in (G) color yarn.  Lay anchor yarn.

Rows 1-4: Crisscross stitch. This border could also be done in rib stitch.

Cut the yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on main color (M).  Lay tails across stitches between rows of pegs.

Rows 5-8 (5-10):  Stockinette

Rows 9-21 (11-23):  Chickie design (12 rows)

Look at each row in chart starting with number 1 at bottom.  Your center of garment is peg #15 (16).  Tie in your accent (G) color on stitch # 14 between the rows of pegs.  Wrap peg number 12 (13) from front to back, drag the yarn over to peg # 18 (19) and wrap front to back.  Lay the accent yarn aside where you end with it.  Now start the row by weaving the stockinette stitch with main color, only skipping the pegs covered with the accent yarn.  This is how you will do each of the design rows following the scale.

Rows 22-27 (24-29): Stockinette

Neckline and sleeve shaping:

Mark the center of knitting with piece of yarn or pin.

The arm shaping will start now.

You will also start the neckline at center of sweater front.

Arm shaping:

*Row 1:  Decrease (1) stitch each end of board.  Work row.

*Row 2:  Knit one regular row.

Do these 2 *rows a total of 6 (7) times.

At neckline, twist the (4) center stitches.  (2) loops to right of center will be lifted and placed on the (2) pegs to left side of center.  The (2) loops to left of center will be lifted and placed on the (2) pegs to right side of center.  This will make the center very strong and a nice accent.

Work the 2 sides of front in 2 separate pieces.

Tie on another skein of yarn to the right side knitting at twisted stitches.

Work each side separately while doing the decrease for the sleeve shaping.

When you have completed the decrease rows ending with a regular row, you are ready to do the shoulders.

Shoulders: Bind Off 2 (3) stitches at beginning of left side, and same on end of right side. The remaining stitches are the neckline.

Neckline:

Rows 1-4:  Rib stitch for each side of front.

Bind Off loosely.  Pick up 2 loops, pull (1) thru (1).  Pick up (1) additional loop, always alternating the boards.  Do this to both sides of front of sweater.  Bind Off loosely at anchor yarn for hemline of sweater front.

 

Back of Sweater:

Repeat all steps as front of sweater, only leave out the design and do not separate the neckline.  Skip the neckline section, and the design section.  Work directly to shoulders, after doing the arm shaping.

 

Sleeve:  (knit 2)

Cast on 18 (22) stitches with accent color.  Lay anchor yarn.

Rows 1-4:  Crisscross Stitch or Rib stitch to match the sweater front and back.

Tie on main color (M).

*Row 1:  Increase (1) stitch each end.  Work row in stockinette stitch.

*Row 2:  Knit (1) row in stockinette.

Repeat these (2)* rows for 3 (4) additional times.

Arm shaping:

Decrease (1) stitch each end of loom every row until (2) stitches remain.

Bind Off.  Bind Off loosely at cuff.

Tie String:

With main color yarn and crochet hook, crochet a chain approximately 28” (30”) long.  Knot at both ends several times to form a small ball that conceals the tails of yarn.

Sewing the pieces together:

Sew the side seams of sweater front and sweater back with invisible stitch.

Sew the shoulders and neckline with invisible stitch.

Sew each sleeve from cuff to arm shaping.  Place each sleeve in sleeve openings, matching the underarm seams, and the center of sleeve to shoulder seam.  Secure these two areas with a strand of yarn.  Be sure you place the sleeve seam at underarm.

Work in the front of sweater with front of sleeve by sewing with invisible stitch.

Work in the back of sweater with back of sleeve by sewing with invisible stitch.  Make extra stitches at underarm and shoulder to secure for active little toddlers.

Front finishing:

Use your crochet hook to weave the braided piece for a shoelace up the front opening.  The center of the braid should be placed behind the twisted stitches.  Lace the braid from side to side ending with ends at top of each side of opening.

Tuck in any yarn tails with crochet hook.

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Feb 5, 2019

Thick & Quick Cable Mittens

Designed by Denice Johnson

Loom: Premium’ Chunky Round Loom Set, 24 peg loom used. 

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick 90 yards (2 skeins) 

Notions: knit hook, sewing needle.

Gauge: 8 stitches & 11 rows to 3″ of pattern.

Finished Size: Adult 8.5″ around by 12″ long measured from cuff to finger tip. 

Stitches:

Ewk: ewrap knit 

P: purl

Cbl: cable

Notes:

The cable (cbl) is worked over two stitches: to create the cable, skip the first peg keeping the working yarn behind the peg, proceed to the second peg, ewrap and knit over the second peg, lift the new loop off the peg and hold with your fingers making sure not to untwist the loop, move the stitch from the first peg and place on the second peg, place the stitch you are holding on to the first peg, gently tug on the working yarn to tighten the stitches, ewrap and knit over the second peg. The cable is now complete.

 

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

The left mitten is worked clockwise, the right mitten is worked counter clockwise.

Ewrap cast on 24 pegs, prepare to work in the round.

Cuff

Rows 1-5: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Mitten Body

Rows 6-8: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Row 9: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Rows 10-12: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Row 13: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Rows 14-16: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Row 17: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Rows 18-20: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Row 21: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) for row

Row 22: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Thumb:
The thumb is worked as a flat panel, worked over pegs 20-24 (5 pegs total).

Row 1: ewk pegs 24 to peg 20

Row 2: ewk pegs 20 to 24

Repeat rows 1& 2 for 24 rows.

Prepare to work in the round, continuing from row 22 that was worked in the round for the mitten body.

Row 23-24: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Row 25: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, cbl, ewk 13

Row 26-28: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Row 29: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, cbl, ewk 13

Row 30-32: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Row 33: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, cbl, ewk 13

Row 34-36: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Row 37: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, cbl, ewk 13

Row 38-40: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Row 41: (cbl, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, cbl, ewk 13

Row 42-44: (ewk2, p1) repeat ( ) 3x, ewk15

Adjust pattern accordingly to insure a perfect fit.

Bind off with gather bind off method.
Weave in ends.

Turn mitten inside out, using a 12″ piece of matching yarn sew up both sides of thumb from the inside of the mitten.

Set stitches by gently tugging on the cast on edge and bind off edge.

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