Browsing articles from "October, 2017"
Oct 29, 2017

Eydis Scarflette

 As the crisp mornings come to us, the yearning for something soft and snuggly around the neck beckons us to grab our looms and create!

LOOM:  His & Her Sock Looms, Purple, 64 pegs.
YARN:  450 yrds extra fine merino wool fingering weight yarn. Sample used Araucania in Huesco, color 7.
NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional). 3 small buttons, size 7/16” (11mm)
GAUGE:  not relevant for this project.
SIZE:  approx 9” wide x 31” long

ABBREVIATIONS

p=purl

k=knit stitch (may use the u-stitch)

yo=yarn over

k2tog=A right slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 1 and hold it. Move stitch from peg 2 to peg 1. Place the loop you are holding back on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop. *Note: usually, you move this loop over to peg 2 to leave peg 1 empty to create a yarn over.

ssk=A left slanting decrease. Takes place over 2 pegs. Number the pegs 1 and 2, from right to left, as follows: Peg 2 -Peg 1.  Remove stitch from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. Work both loops together as one loop.

 

NOTES

The stitch pattern repeats over 18 stitches (18 pegs). The first 5 pegs and last 5 pegs will always be in garter stitch. The stitch pattern repeats 3 times in the middle 54 pegs. A stitch pattern breakdown is provided at the end of the pattern. Recommend to try out the stitch pattern first before embarking on the project.

Chart provided if you prefer to work from a chart. Chart shows the stitch pattern over 18 pegs and from Row 1-Row 12 of the stitch pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

Edging

Cast on 64 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

**Row 1: k to end. Note: Row 1 should be in a right to left direction (clockwise around the loom).

Row 2: p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 3 more times.

Body

Row 1, 2: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4: p5, k to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 5: k5, *k2tog 3 times, [yo, k1]6x, ssk 3 times, rep from * to last 5 sts, k5

Row 6: p5, k to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 7, 9, 11: k to end of row.

Row 8, 10, 12: p to end of row.*

Rep from ** to ** until item measures 27” inches from cast on edge.

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block to measurements.

Secure 3 buttons along the side of the scarf. See picture below for placement.

How to do Row 5

To facilitate the stitch pattern breakdown, we will concentrate on the 18 stitches of the lace stitch pattern. The instructions below will start on peg 6 of your loom. On Row 5, the lace row, the first 5 pegs are knitted. The stitch pattern begins on Peg 6—for the purpose of this demonstration, peg 6 will be called peg 1.

  • Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Two loops on peg 2. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1.
  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Two loops on peg 4. Knit peg 4. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 2.
  • Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Two loops on peg 6. Knit peg 6. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 3.
  • Pegs 4, 5, and 6 are empty.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 5.
  • Move loop from peg 8 to peg 7.
  • Ewrap peg 4, knit peg 5.
  • Ewrap peg 6, knit peg 7.
  • Ewrap peg 8, knit peg 9.
  • Remove loop from peg 18 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 17 over to peg 18. Place loop you are holding back on peg 18.
  • Remove loop from peg 16 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 15 over to peg 17. Place loop you are holding on peg 17.
  • Remove loop from peg 14 and hold it momentarily. Move loop from peg 13 over to peg 16. Place loop you are holding on peg 16.
  • Move loop from peg 12 to peg 15.
  • Move loop from peg 11 to peg 13.
  • Move loop from peg 10 to peg 11.
  • Ewrap peg 10, knit peg 11.
  • Ewrap peg 12, knit peg 13.
  • Ewrap peg 14, knit peg 15.
  • Knit to the end of the row (the pegs that have 2 loops on them (pegs 16, 17 and 18) treat both loops as one loop).

Special note: pegs 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 should have been ewrapped (yarn over).

Repeat these instructions every 18 pegs. I recommend getting masking tape and marking your knitting loom (on the masking tape) 1-18, three times—the stitch pattern repeats itself 3 times around the loom. Pegs 1-5 are not part of the stitch pattern, pegs 60-64 are also not part of the stitch pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Oct 23, 2017

Spa Cloth

The holidays are around the corner, this lovely washcloth makes the perfect hostess gift. Knit up a set of three and you have the perfect gift for your next gathering. 

LOOM: KB Premium Round Loom. Any loom from set can be used.

YARN: Sample used Peaches and Cream stripes. (1 ball makes 2)

NOTIONS: Tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 4 stitches and 5 rows to 1″ of pattern, but not relevant for the project.

SIZE: 7” wide x 7″ tall.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ew= ewrap knit stitch
P= purl stitch
K2tog= knit two stitches together
Yo= yarn over (carry yarn in front of peg, do not ewrap)

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 28 pegs counter clockwise, prepare to work in a flat panel. Skip the first stitch in every row to create a nice even edge.

Row 1: purl row

Row 2: ewrap knit row
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: p3, yo, k2tog (ewk 4, yo, k2tog) p3, ewk1

Row 10: ewrap knit row

Row 11: p3, k2tog, yo (ewk 4, k2tog, yo) p3, ewk1

Row 12: ewrap knit row

Repeat rows 9-12 seven times.

Row 49: purl row

Row 50: ewrap knit row
Repeat rows 49 & 50 for a total of 8 rows.

Bind off using the basic bind off method and weave in yarn ends. Set stitches by gently tugging on the edges.

2 Comments

  • How pretty awesome job on it. Will be making some. Thank you

  • I really like this….. I do think I have found a grand idea for some friends Holiday gifts…. I have two little girls that will love them

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Oct 20, 2017

Alternate Rib Hat

Loom: ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom, set up for double knitting.

Yarn:  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal, 100% Merino Wool, worsted weight, 1skein.  Color ‘Canary’ in sample.

Stitches: Rib, Alternate Rib

Notions:  Knit hook, Crochet hook, one stitch marker (optional)

 Size:  Average Adult

Pattern notes:  Hat brim is knit in the rib stitch. The rest of the hat is knit in the rib and alternating rib stitch. Work by alternating these 2 stitches, round 1 and round 2 until hat length complete.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the stitch marker on beginning peg, if desired, or use arrow. Cast On in stockinette stitch.  Lay anchor yarn around stitches between the looms.

Rounds 1-8:  Work rib stitch until end of round.

Round 9: Work alternate rib, until end of round.

Round 10:  Work rib stitch until end of round.

Repeat rounds 9 and 10 until you have a total length of approximately

8-8.5” from brim edge.  Complete the knitting with a row of rib stitch.

See photos below for weaving patterns for the Rib and Alternate Rib Stitch. The blue yarn show the ribbing, and yellow yarn shows the alternate rib.

 

             RIB STITCH

Beginning of round one

End of round one

End of round two

              ALTERNATE RIB

Beginning of the round one

End of round one

Once the knit is desired length, you are ready to bind off.  Move loops from inner loom to outer loom so that each peg on outer loom has 2 loops, and the inner loom is empty, hook over, bottom loop over top.  Now, one loop remains on each peg on outer loom.

Cut the working yarn coming from the project, leaving about 16-20 inches of yarn to use for the gathering process.

Thread the yarn tail through the eye of a tapestry needle. Pass the needle up and under the first stitch on the loom. Remove the stitch from the peg and leave it on the yarn tail. Go to the next peg and remove the stitch from the peg with the needle. This stitch will also rest on the yarn tail. Continue working around the loom until all the stitches have been removed and are secured on the yarn tail.

Gently pull on the yarn tail, cinching the top of the item closed. Pass the needle through the center of the gathered stitches and turn the hat inside out. Do a few securing stitches. Knot your yarn and weave in the tail.

Bind off the cast on stitches at anchor yarn with crochet hook for a completed hat.

 

 

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Oct 16, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Read A Chart?

 

 

 

 

 

Everybody loves a video.  Lots of people only use videos when making items because they prefer to not read patterns.  But  learning to read patterns is great because it opens up lots more projects to make since not every pattern has a complete video tutorial.

But wait…  There’s more.

Patterns actually come in 3 formats.

The first format is videos.  But like I mentioned, not all patterns are available in video format.

The second format is written patterns.  Patterns in written form are like reading code.  Words are abbreviated and sections are written as repeats so that the pattern itself is not the length of a novel written by Diana Gabaldon or George R. R. Martin…  But putting men from the Scottish Highlands and fear of long winters aside for the moment, it can get rather lengthy when a pattern is written out in full, and it really is like learning to read another language which means you do have to put forth the effort to learn to read the code.  If you are looking for more on reading a pattern, check out Loom FAQs:  How Do I Read A Pattern?

And the last format is charts.  While most patterns are not fully “written” in charts in knitting, the stitch pattern itself is.  Once a person can read both patterns and charts, there is nothing they cannot make.

Why EXACTLY are charts so great?

Charts are wonderful ways of conveying the stitch patterns without words.  It is truly universal.  Like mathematics, knitting charts can be read by anyone no matter what language they speak or read.  But there are other ways that charts are great as well.

For people who loom knit, we need to convert written needle patterns in order to make them on looms unless they are written in the round.  But when reading charts, needle knitters have to convert or change the wrong side rows while loom knitter do not.  Charts can be worked exactly as they appear row for row.  This is why I love stitch pattern books for knitting that contain charts.  And this is why all loom knitters should learn to read charts.  Then we don’t need special loom knitting stitch pattern books.  We can use the same book that the needle knitters use.

So how are charts read?

Before we get into how to read a chart, let’s discuss what the chart is.  A chart is just a grid of boxes where each box represents a stitch on a row or round.  It looks like graph paper.

While most charts for stitch patterns are made of boxes that are square like on regular graph paper, knitting stitches are not square.  Each knit stitch is shorter than it is wide.  Or wider than it is tall.  This is why there are more rows in an inch vertically than there stitches in an inch horizontally.  This is the reason that knitting graph paper for charting pictures or words is not made of squares.  These graphs have cells that are rectangular.  If you chart a picture with graph paper made of squares, the finished knitted picture will be short and fat when compared to the picture desired.  But when using charts to depict stitch patterns and not pictures, square cells are most commonly used.

Now we can discuss how to read a chart…

The following chart is the herringbone stitch pattern from the Stitchology column written by Bethany Daily here on the KB blog.  This stitch was the first in the Stitchology series.  If you haven’t been keeping up with Bethany’s column, then you are missing out on some fabulous stitch patterns.  And guess what?  She even covers reading stitch charts as well in the herringbone stitch post as well.  Maybe between us both, we will get the word out on how to read charts…  Here is the chart:

 

 

 

 

But the chart alone means nothing without the key.  In books, the key will not be found with every stitch chart.  It will most often be found in one of two places in the book.  Either in the front or the back.  Therefore, if you see a chart but not the key, you will be able to find it elsewhere.  If you cannot find it, then it is like looking for a treasure without a map.

PLEASE NOTE:

I do need to clarify something here.  While all knitting charts are shown from the right side, some needle stitch pattern books will have 2 keys for the symbols.  They will have a right side key and a wrong side key.  In these books, the wrong side key will be the same symbol as the right side but the opposite stitch for flat panels.  So it will have the symbol for knit on the right side and the same symbol for purl for the wrong side.

Also, when using needle stitch charts that do not have 2 keys, it will indicate the stitch for the right side and the stitch for the wrong side.

Loom knitters will ALWAYS use the right side stitch.  That is the part to remember.  RIGHT SIDE STITCH ONLY!

 

Here is the Chart Key:

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see in the above chart, the rows are numbered from the bottom to the top.

The cast on is not listed on the chart because the cast on is not considered a row.  It is simply the foundation of loops that all the rows sit on top of.

Also you need to remember that this is for the stitch pattern itself.  Not the complete pattern in most cases.  Therefore if there is a border at the bottom or the sides, those will need to be done before working these rows.

But if you are working a pattern that has a chart, you will need to cast on in certain direction ALWAYS when reading charts or patterns.  The reason is you will be working each stitch as it appears on the chart.  Stitch 1 on row 1 will always appear on the bottom right hand corner of the chart so that row 1 is worked from right to left.

This is the reason you will need to cast on from left to right when casting on for a flat panel so that you will be ready to start row 1 from right to left.

When casting on in the round, you will cast on from right to left so that you will be ready to work from right to left when starting round 1.

Now let’s look at the rows themselves on the chart.  On the right you see the odd rows numbered and on the left the even rows are numbers.  This is make the chart easier to read.  Especially for flat panels.  After working row 1 from right to left, you then work row 2 from left to right.  And there is the number 2 for the second row on the left hand side making it easier to find once you have worked you way across row 1.

But what exactly does each square mean?

The key tells us what stitch to use.  Each square represents a stitch.  This stitch pattern only uses knit and purl stitches.  Therefore there are only 2 types of squares.  In other words, this is a simple stitch pattern if you can keep up with which stitch goes where.

The empty squares do not mean that there isn’t a stitch.  It means those are the knit stitches.

The squares with the single dot in the middle are the purl stitches.

When the stitch pattern is more complicated, the symbols and where they are placed become more complex as well.  This is why it is better to start off with a simple stitch pattern when starting to read charts.

For most charts that are included with patterns, the charts only show just a certain number of stitches.  The number of stitches will vary chart to chart since these are the number of stitches that will be repeated.  For the herringbone stitch, the stitch is a repeat of 10 stitches.  If you are making something larger than 10 stitches, you will need to make the item with a multiple of 10 then add the number of stitches for the side borders on a flat panel.  If working in the round, it will just be the multiple of 10.

Now to start reading our chart.  When you start with the first row of the stitch pattern, you should be on the right side of the loom working to the left.  For the herringbone example, you will knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches.  Then you will repeat those for however many repeats you are working.  For 30 stitches total, you will repeat it another 2 times for 3 times total.  For 100 stitches total, you will repeat for 9 times making it a total of 10 times.

Now for a flat panel, you are on the left side of the work getting ready to work from left to right on row 2.  You will follow the stitches on the chart from left to right this time.  Row 2 will be knit 1 stitch, then purl 2 stitches, then 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches before repeating.

If you are working in the round, you will just continue working from right to left and follow the chart from right to left as well.  Round 2 would then be knit 2 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 3 stitches, then purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 stitch before repeating.

Then on to row or round 3…  Hopefully you have the idea now of what will need to be done for row 3.  And also see how long it takes to write out a row stitch for stitch…

What would this chart look like written out?

Well if the herringbone pattern was written out in a pattern without a chart, it would be written as follows for the stitch pattern with the chart on the right side for comparison:

Abbreviations for our little demonstration:

K: knit

P: purl

Rep: repeat

For a flat panel:

Row 1: *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *

Row 2: *K1, P2, K3, P2, K2, rep from *

Row 3: *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *

Row 4: *P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, rep from *

For in the round:

Round 1:  *K3, P2, K1, P2, K2, rep from *

Round 2:  *K2, P2, K3, P2, K1, rep from *

Round 3:  *K1, P2, K5, P2, rep from *

Round 4:  K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, rep from *

 

I hope this helps clear up any confusion charts may present.  But something I have learned over the years is the best way to learn something is to just do it.  If you make mistakes, don’t worry!  With yarn, just pull it out and try again.  It is ok to make mistakes.  It is how we learn.

Now it’s time to put the fear of charts aside, grab a ball of yarn, and tackle that pattern you have been wanting to make!  Happy loom knitting!

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Oct 15, 2017

Polemonium Hat

Designed by Renita Harvey

Love the Jacob’s Ladder technique in crochet but don’t know how to crochet?  Try the new method of chaining loops developed by Renita Harvey that achieves the same design feature on a stockinette background by knitting this hat! 

Amaze your friends and family with this fun hat that incorporates both the braided chain loops and color changes.  Changing the color after each round of chain loops gives the “ladder” a more visible appearance.  Or use a self-striping yarn with long color changes to avoid changing colors manually.  This hat is also a great pattern for school and team colors as well as seasonal color combinations. 

The Polemonium Hat is easier than it appears making it a great pattern for those wanting to up their loom knitting game.

Knit on the All-n-One Loom, the Polemonium Hat has a decreased crown bringing all the “ladders” or braids together at the top achieving a nice clean finish.

LOOM:  80 pegs used, small gauge loom. Sample was knit using the All-n-One Loom.

YARN:  180 yds medium worsted weight yarn, KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Colors Celestial, Gulfstream, Marina, Sky, and Mint 36 yds each color used in sample

NOTIONS:  Loom pick, stitch markers, paper clips, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 18 rows = 2”

SIZE:  Adult

ABBREVIATIONS

K:  knit

P:  purl

K2tog:  knit 2 together

Ch:  chain

CO:  cast On

BO:  bind Off

R:  round

Rep:  repeat

Dec:  decrease

CA:  Color A – Celestial

CB:  Color B – Gulfstream

CC:  Color C – Marina

CD:  Color D – Sky

CE:  Color E – Mint

SPECIAL STITCH

Chain:  knit same stitch the number of times listed.  Example:  Ch10 – knit the same stitch 10 times using the e-wrap knit stitch.

 PATTERN NOTES

Chain loops will be made on the inside of the hat.  Loops will be pushed though the eyelets made after the hat is off the loom.

 INSTRUCTIONS

Place stitch markers on pegs 1, 11, 21, 31, 41, 51, 61, and 71.  These are the pegs that the chain stitch will be worked.  Move the stitch marker with the stitch when working the decreases.

 With CA, CO 80 pegs and prepare to work in the round.

R1 – 5:  *K1, P1, rep from * around

R6:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R7 – 9:  Drop CA, add CB, K all

R10:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R11 – 13:  Drop CB, add CC, K all

R14:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R15 – 17:  Drop CC, add CD, K all

R18:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R19 – 21:  Drop CD, add CE, K all

R22:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R23 – 25:  Drop CE, pick up CA, K all

R26:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R27 – 29:  Drop CA, pick up CB, K all

R30:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R31 – 33:  Drop CB, pick up CC, K all

R34:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R35 – 37:  Drop CC, pick up CD, K all

R38:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R39 – 41:  Drop CD, pick up CE, K all

R42:  *Ch10, K9, rep from * around

R43 – 63:  Rep R23 – 42, once

R63 – 65:  Drop CE, pick up CA, K all

Decrease Crown:

Note:  Adjust loom with each decrease round so there are no empty pegs.

  • Place all the stitches on a piece of scrap yarn in a contrasting color approximately 20” long before working the decrease round.
  • Adjust the loom to the new peg count listed at the end of the decrease round.
  • Place the stitches back on the loom following the instructions for that row by placing 2 stitches on the peg for the K2tog and 1 stitch on each of the rest of the pegs. Make sure the stitch markers for the chain loops are moved to the new pegs as well.
  • Work the row as instructed.

R66: (Dec) *Ch10, K7, K2tog, rep from * around – 72 stitches

R67:  Cut CA leaving tail to weave in, pick up CB, K all

R68: (Dec) *K7, K2tog, rep from * around – 64 stitches

R69:  K all

R70: (Dec) *Ch10, K5, K2tog, rep from * around – 56 stitches

R71:  Cut CB leaving tail to weave in, pick up CC, K all

R72: (Dec) *K5, K2tog, rep from * around – 48 stitches

R73:  K all

R74: (Dec) *Ch10, K3, K2tog, rep from * around – 40 stitches

R75:  Cut CC leaving tail to weave in, pick up CD, K all

R76: (Dec) *K3, K2tog, rep from * around – 32 stitches

R77:  K all

R78: (Dec) *Ch10, K1, K2tog, rep from * around – 24 stitches

R79:  Cut CD leaving tail to weave in, pick up CE, K all

R80: (Dec) *K1, K2tog, rep from * around – 16 stitches (Note:  This will be the last time to decrease the loom.  Rows 81 – 83 will be worked skipping the empty peg by bringing the working yarn behind the peg.)

R81:  K all

R82:  *Move stitch on peg to the left of stitch marker over on to the peg with stitch marker, Ch5, rep from * around – 8 stitches

R83:  K all

Place each remaining stitch on a paper clip and remove from loom.

Cut working yarn leaving a tail 6” long for weaving in.

 

Finishing:

 

 

Loops are on the inside of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Push chain loops through the eyelets created by the chains so the loops are on the outside of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Braid each spoke by starting at the bottom loop, twist the loop,

 

 

 

 

 

 

then pull the loop above it through the bottom loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue by pulling the loop above through the loop below

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

until the top of the hat is reached and the last smaller loop is pulled through.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then pull the paper clip with the live stitch through the final chain loop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

leaving the paper clip on the stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thread yarn tail on tapestry needle and through each stitch.  Remove paper clips and gather.

Secure and weave in ends.

 

6 Comments

  • Very, very pretty Renita!

  • This is a fantastic design, Renita! Love it! ?

  • Can this pattern be made on the Rotating Board using 1 ring or even better both rings.
    Thanks

  • This is a very pretty and educational pattern. I tempted to go outside my basic stitches comfort zone.
    I’m going to start small, making a baby hat.
    Thank you for making this patter.

  • Thank you, Bethany!

  • Gail,
    This pattern is designed to be decreased at the top which is why it is written for the All-n-One loom. While it could be adapted to be made on the DKL, it couldn’t be decreased for the crown, and another way to finish off the braids would need to be devised. It really couldn’t be made with both rings on the DKL.

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Oct 8, 2017

Faire Isle Beanie

Finally, a warm, stylish beanie that will be equally stunning on 5th Avenue or at the high school football game! Fair Isle is a knitting technique that uses multiple strands of different colored yarn to create intricate knit patterns. This hat will quickly become a staple accessory in your wardrobe!

LOOM: ‘Premium’ Round Loom Set (Large, 80 peg loom)

YARN: Worsted Weight (#4)

Red Hearts Super Saver (100% Acrylic) used in sample

Color A: approximately 60 g/110 yds (Soft Navy used in sample)

Color B: approximately 20 g/37 yds (Charcoal used in sample)

SIZE: Adult Unisex

COMPLEXITY: Late beginner to early intermediate

ABBREVIATIONS

st(s): Stitch(es)

rnd: Round

ek: E-wrap knit stitch

rep: Repeat

INSTRUCTIONS

Because this pattern is worked in the round, the pattern may be slightly staggered by one row between the first and last stitches in the round. This is normal and should be expected.

Note: A chart is located at the bottom of the pattern for your convenience. If using the chart, starting from the bottom, repeat the chart 16 times until you reach the end of each row. Then move up to the next row. Refer to the pattern for instructions between rows.

Cast on 80 sts in color A, prepare to work in the round

 Rnd 1-21: ek80 in color A

The brim is created by bringing the cast on row stitches (the bottom row of the work on the loom) back onto the top of the pegs. You should now have two rows of yarn on your pegs (row 21 on the bottom of the pegs and the cast on row on the top of the pegs). Next, simply work row 21 over the cast on row. This will create the double-thick brim.

Rnd 22: *ek1 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek 3 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 23: *ek1 in color B, ek1 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek2 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 24-25: *ek3 in color A, ek2 in color B; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 26: rep rnd 23

 Rnd 27: rep rnd 22

 Rnd 28: *ek4 in color A, ek1 in color B, rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 29: *ek3 in color A, ek1 in color B, ek1 in color A, rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 30: rep rnd 28

 Rnd 31: rep rnd 29

 Rnd 32-33: ek80 in color A

 Rnd 34-36: *ek3 in color B, ek2 in color A; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 37-38: rep rnd 32

 Rnd 39-40: ek80 in color B

 Rnd 41-42: rep rnd 32

 Rnd 43-44: rep rnd 39

 Rnd 45-47: *ek3 in color A, ek2 in color B; rep from * to end of rnd

 Rnd 48-50: rep rnd 39

 Rnd 51-55: rep rnd 32

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave in ends.

Finish by attaching a pompom in color B to the top of the hat.

 

CHART

(Click on chart to enlarge.)

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Oct 2, 2017

Bobbles and Seed Stitch: Stitchology 37

This month is all about creating the classic look of bobbles! There are so many stitches that incorporate bobbles into their design that a column of stitch tutorials would be remiss not to include them. After playing with many different types of bobbles, I came up with a version that is nice and plump and provides that wonderful “pop” that they are famous for. The steps involved in creating these happy little bumps are broken down in written and video format, and the bobbles are then inserted into two repeating patterns for your enjoyment.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap, unless otherwise stated.

Abbreviations

K,k: knit

P,p: purl

KO: knit off (lift bottom loop(s) over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)

WY: working yarn

HH: half hitch (create a loop with WY by twisting in opposite way than when making an EW and place on peg. The WY will be coming from underneath the twist rather than on top.)

rep: repeat.

 

Chart Key for Repeating Pattern Rows

Steps to Create a Bobble (Bobbles can be worked going in either direction on the loom…Simply number the bobble pegs 1-3 in the order they are worked in the first bobble step.):

Step 1: k3

Step 2: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.

Step 3: HH onto peg 3, k peg 2, HH onto peg 1.

Step 4: (k3) repeat 3 times, will end on peg 3.

Step 5: move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Move the loop from peg 3 also to peg 2. KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2.

Step 6: reach down at the back side of the work and pull up the 3 loops from the base of the bobble that were knit in Step 1 and place them back onto pegs 1-3.

Step 7: WY will be coming from peg 2. K peg 3.  Continue with remainder of row.

Step 8: Knit next row of pattern, KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 2 of bobble.

Here’s a video of just the steps to make a bobble:

 

Working Bobbles into a Basic Stitch

This basic stitch uses a multiple of 9 pegs x 9 rows. The bobble itself requires 3 pegs and is worked on Row 5 only. The extra pegs and rows around these 3 bobble pegs act as a buffer between the bobbles when repeated. The number of “buffer” pegs and rows can be adjusted as desired to meet the needs of the project.

(Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 9. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-4: k9

Row 5: k3, create bobble, k3.

Row 6: k4, k 2 loops as one on peg 5, k4.

Rows 7-9:  k9

 

Bobble & Seeds Repeating Pattern 

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 22—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

Working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 22. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-4: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.

Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Rows 10 & 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Rows 12-15: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Row 16: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Rows 21 & 22: Repeat Rows 10 & 11.

Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 22):

Rounds 1-4:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Round A:*k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Round B: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.

Round 5: *k4, create bobble, k4, p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, rep from * to end.

Rounds 6-9:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Round C: *p1, k9, p1, k11, rep from * to end.

Round D: *k11, p1, k9, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 10: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Round 11: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Rounds 12-15:  Repeat Rounds 6-9.

Round 16: *p1, k3, create bobble, k3, p1, k4, create bobble, k4, rep from * to end.

Rounds 17-20:  Repeat Rounds 1-4.

Round 21: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 22: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Rep rows 1-22 for desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

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Oct 1, 2017

Zippy Fall Cowl Set

Fall is in the air, it is time to take out the Zippy and get zippying along! Start this fall off with this super quick and stylish Cowl and Fingerless mitt set.

LOOM:  Master Zippy Loom Set + 2 Zippy (28 pegs total)

YARN:  225 yards of Super Bulky weight 100% merino wool. 1.5 skeins Malabrigo Rasta in Pearl Tan.

NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

GAUGE: 6 sts x 5 rows=2 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  Fingerless mitts: 7.5 inches long. Cowl: 10 inches when laid flat.

ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy Master Set with the two additional Zippy Looms as shown in this picture.

 

 

 

Cast on 28 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Round 1: k to end of row.

Round 2: p to end of row.

Rep Round 1 and Round 2: 10 more times.

From this point forward, you will be working as a flat panel.

Next row: k to end row.

Next row: Decrease row–Place loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from peg 28 to peg 27. Only 26 pegs have stitches. P to end of row (treat the pegs with the two loops as if it was one loop, grab both loops and purl the peg).  Each Decrease Row, you will be decreasing by two stitches by moving the stitches from the outer edges to the inner pegs.

*Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: Decrease Row–Place loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from peg 27 to peg 26. Only 24 pegs have stitches. P to end of row (treat the pegs with the two loops as if it was one loop, grab both loops and purl the peg).

Repeat from * to * until 2 stitches remain.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block if necessary.

Fingerless Mitts

(make 2)

Cast on 15 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: k to end of row.

Row 11, 13, 15, 17: p to end of row.

Row 12, 14, 16, 18: k to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Seaming—use the mattress stitch to seam the cast on edge to bind off edge. As you seam, maintain the garter stitch ridges to the top of the hand

Mattress stitch seam 4 inches from the bottom up, leave a 1.5 inch opening, then continue to seam the top 2 inches.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block if necessary.

 

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