Browsing articles from "May, 2017"
May 29, 2017

Elegant Long Stem Roses

Roses are the go-to gift for all occasions.  But some people have allergies that prevent them from enjoying real roses, and roses never last very long for the amount of money they cost.  Why not make a bouquet that will last more than one lifetime?

With medium level skills of short row knits and construction of multiple pieces, a work of art can be created in very little time but will last forever and won’t make anyone sneeze.  Why not knit a dozen in your favorite color for a stunning display!

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN:  70 yds of dk/3 weight 50% cotton/50% acrylic yarn for each rose, 50 yds of rose color & 20 yds of green.  Cascade Yarns Sunseeker Shade in colors 09 (red), 05 (baby pink), 06 (white), and 26 (green) used in samples.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 16 gauge galvanized steel wire cut 10″ long for each rose

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  12 “ from top of petal to bottom of stem

 ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

S=slip (skip)

P2tog=purl 2 together – move the stitch from the end peg to the next peg and purl both stitches as one

CDD=central double decrease – move the 2 outside loops to the middle peg and purl all 3 stitches as one

W&T=wrap & turn – lift the stitch off the peg, wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it from behind and around to the front, place loop back on peg.

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

CA=petal color (red, pink, or white)

CB=calyx and stem (green)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Petals – Make 6

Using CA and leaving a tail approx. 6” long for seaming, CO 8 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all 8 pegs

R2:  S1, k next 7 pegs

R3:  K pegs 1-6, W&T peg 7

R4:  K pegs 6-1

R5:  K pegs 1-4, W&T peg 5

R6:  K pegs 4-1

R7:  K pegs 1-2, W&T peg 3

R8:  K pegs 2-1

Rep R1-8, 9 more times

Next row:  K all 8 pegs

BO using basic BO method.

Using the long tail from the cast on, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches and gather the center by pulling it close. Then still using the tail from the CO, work the mattress stitch seaming the CO edge to the BO edge.  (See Picture Details of Petals after Assembly below for more details.)

Weave in the tail used for seaming while leaving the BO tail for assembly.

 

Calyx (Leaves beneath Petals)

Using CB, CO 35 pegs using the Gathered CO Method (see instructions after Assembly below).  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P all

R3 – 6:  rep R1-2, twice

Now begin working a flat panel over 7 pegs to create the connected leaves.

*R1:  K7 – 7 pegs

R2:  P2tog, P3, P2tog – 5 pegs

R3:  K5

R4:  P5

R5:  K5

R6:  P2tog, P1, P2tog – 3 pegs

R7:  K3

R8:  P3

R9:  K3

R10:  CCD – 1 peg

Cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

BO by pulling the tail through the final stitch.

Join working yarn on the next unworked peg.

Rep from * until 5 leaves are made using all unworked pegs.

Seam the 2 sides together (do NOT use the CO tail to seam the sides together).  Weave in ends except for the CO tail.

Gather the CO edge to prepare attaching calyx to stem.  (See Picture Details of Calyx after Assembly below for more details.)

 

Stem

Using 2 strands of CB together as one, CO 2 pegs.

*K peg 1 then knit peg 2.

Holding the wire behind the pegs (see Picture Details of Stem after Assembly below), bring the working yarn behind the wire back to peg 1.

Rep from * until all of the wire is covered by the i-cord except for 1″ at the top.

Note:  Remember to keep these stitches loose since using 2 strands make the stitches tighter than usual.

BO and cut working yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

 

Assembly

Joining Petals Together Creating Rose Bud

 

 

Center the seam at the bottom of the petal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over one side of the petal keeping the seam centered at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over the other side so that the bottom of the petal is closed together and top is open.

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the bottom of the petal together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the overlapping petal no higher than halfway up.

Weave in the end before continuing with the next petal.

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap the next petal around the first keeping the seam at the bottom of the petals.

Sew the edges to the petal beneath and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue adding petals in the same manner alternating direction they are wrapped around the previous petals until all 6 are sewn together.

 

 

 

 

 

Bud is finished and ready to be joined to the Calyx and Stem.

 

 

 

 

 

Joining Calyx to Stem

 

Using one of the strands of yarn from the tail of the stem, sew the gathered center of the calyx to the top of the stem.

Make sure the wire is though the center of the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue sewing the top of the stem to the gather center of the calyx.

The center will continue to gather as each stitch joins the stem since the center will not gather down to the size of the stem.

 

 

 

 

Use the tail from gather the calyx to sew the calyx to the rose bud.

Weave in the ends from the stem after the calyx is sewn to the top of the stem.

The wire should protrude 1″.

 

 

 

 

 

Whip stitch the bottom of the stem with the tail so the bottom of the wire will not protrude from the bottom before running the tail up inside the stem with the wire..

 

 

 

 

Joining Rose Bud to Calyx and Stem

 

 

Insert the wire into the bottom of the rose bud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the tail from gathering the center of the calyx, sew the bottom edge of the petals to the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 After sewing the bottom edges to the calyx, sew around again up to the the part of the calyx where the  leaves start.

 

 

 

 

Gathered Cast On Instructions

 

 

 Place slip knot on “anchor” peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run working yarn in front of peg 1.  Then behind peg 2.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of the odd numbered pegs and behind the even number pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

Ending with the working yarn in front of peg 35.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind peg 35 and back around in front of the next 2 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the bottom loop over the top on the peg with 2 loops.  Continue with every 2 pegs until peg 1 has been knitted.  Now all pegs should have a stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Start row 1 as instructed.  Leave the slip knot on the anchor peg until the first row has been worked.

 

 

 

Picture Details of Petals

 

 

Before seaming and gather center.

Back of work when on the loom but front when when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

Front of work when on the loom but back when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a tapestry needle, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue around the center until on the other side of the center.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gather the center and use tail to seam the cast on and bind off edges with the mattress stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petal finished and ready to assemble.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Calyx

 

 

 For first leaf, knit the first 7 pegs.  Then move the stitch on peg 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the stitch from peg 7 onto peg 6.  Purl both loops as one and then purl pegs 5, 4, and 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And place it onto peg 2.  Purl both loops as 1.

Then continue with written instructions  until you have only 3 stitches remaining.

 

 

 

 

Now to work the CDD.

Remove the stitch from peg 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch from peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2 so that 3 loops are on 1 peg.

Purl all 3 loops together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

Bind off by pulling the working yarn up through the remaining stitch as if working a purl stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But unlike a purl, continue to pull the tail through the loop and remove the stitch off the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the tail until the loop closes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A look at the first leaf finished with the remaining stitches are still on the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the working yarn on the first stitch of the unworked stitches by simply placing the yarn around the peg.

While a slip knot can be used here, this method will eliminate knots in the work.

 

 

 

 

Knit as normal and continue.

Snug up the tail as needed if the stitch becomes loose.

Then weave in the tail later.

 

 

 

 

 

How the calyx looks before weaving in the ends and seaming the sides together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calyx seamed and gathered with tail for sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Stem

 

 

First 2 stitches of knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hold wire behind the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind the wire and back around in front of peg 1 to knit pegs 1 and 2 again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue until 1″ of wire is left uncovered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern written and designed by Renita Harvey.

 

 

 

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May 21, 2017

Sunshine Shawl

I have always wanted a larger scale of the Inara Scarf and after many years, that dream has become a reality. Featuring the drop stitch with different lengths of elongated stitches, the shawl is perfect for those brisk morning or evening walks. The Sunshine Shawl has a diamond design worked with yarn overs on a background of garter stitch. The background of garter stitch makes the design pop even more. A yarn with wool (or natural fiber) content is recommended as the shawl needs to be blocked to show the stitches at its best!

Enjoy!

MATERIALS

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom (or any other of the KB looms with at least 99 pegs–can use the Afghan Loom, the 28″ Knitting Loom, or even (2) Hat Looms assembled together).

Yarn:  Approx 800 yds of worsted weight merino wool. Knit Picks Preciosa in Canary was used in sample; 3 skeins.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers/peg markers

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows=4 inches

Size: Approx 23 inches wide x 72 inches long

ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit Knit Stitch or Flat Stitch will work

P=purl

Yo=yarn over e-wrap the peg in a clockwise direction

Drp=Drop yarn over–Take the yarn overs off the peg

Sl=Slip stitch Skip the peg with yarn in back of work

Diamond Stitch Design

Use the instructions below when enlarging the pattern for a bigger item, such as a shawl.

Multiple of 6 + 1

Row 1: *k2, yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3, e-wrap peg 3 twice

Knit peg 4, e-wrap peg 4 twice

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last stitch

Row 2: p1, *p1, drp1, p1, drp2, p1, drp2, p1, drp1, p1, p2; rep from * to end of row

Purl peg 1

*Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 4

Purl peg 4

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 5

Purl peg 5

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Purl peg 7; rep from * to the end of row

Row 3: *k1, yo2, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo2; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1, e-wrap peg 1 twice

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3

Knit peg 4

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6, e-wrap peg 6 twice; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last

stitch

Row 4: p1, *drp2, p1, drop1, p3, drp1, p1, drp2, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Purl peg 1

*Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 2

Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Purl peg 4

Purl peg 5

Drop yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 7

Purl peg 7

Pattern Notes

Pattern is worked in a clockwise direction around the loom–You will be knitting a flat panel, the first row will be from right to left. Peg 1 will be at the far right and the last peg at the far left. The second row will start at the far left and end at the far right: Peg 1 will be at far left and the last peg at the far right.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 99 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

(Place peg marker on peg 1 and peg 99. Peg 1 and peg 99 are selvage stitches, the stitches in between are pattern repetitions, if you want to make a wider item, simply work more of these repetitions.)

Garter Stitch Edging

Row 1, 3, 5: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Row 2, 4, 6: Sl1, k to end

Row 7: Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 8: Sl1, p1, *p1, drp1yo, p1, drop2yo, p1, drp2yo, p1, drp1, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Row 9: Sl1, *k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 10: Sl1, p1, *drp2yo, p1, drp1yo, p3, drp1yo, p1, drp2yo, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 74 inches from cast on edge.

Rep Rows 1-6. 

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block to measurements to open up the design.

4 Comments

  • Will there be a video of this stitch? :)

  • As of right now, there are no plans for a video. The stitch breakdown is included and it is a fairly easy process.

  • What Cast On did you use? Is there one that will match the basic bind off? It’s absolutely a beautiful pattern! I can’t wait to make it!

  • It used the ewrap cast on and it was tightened after the item was completed.

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May 15, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Bind Off In Pattern? Or Beyond The Basic Bind Off…

 

 

 

 

 

 

What does “bind off in pattern” mean?  This is actually a question I haven’t seen in loom knitting at all.  But having seen “bind off in pattern” in needle knitting has really got me to thinking about binding off and different methods to bind off.

The most common bind off in loom knitting is the basic bind off.  This bind off is a great bind off for keeping the tension loose as you work the bind off instead of having to remember to work the previous row looser than normal.  But it does add an extra row of knit at the end.

This has prompted me to expand the basic bind off method to include purl stitch so the last row of purl can be the bind off when working garter stitch or even being able to use the basic bind off on ribbing or other stitch patterns  that isn’t all knits.  Which is where “bind off in pattern” comes into play.

Now let’s revisit the Basic Bind Off and then discuss how to bind off in pattern.  And then we will discuss how to make the Basic Bind Off more stretchy by adding a chain stitch between the bind off stitches without using a crochet hook.

 

Basic Bind Off – Original with Knit Stitch

Chain edge of the Basic Bind Off

 

The Basic Bind Off is always worked with the working yarn and gives a nice chain edge that matches the Chain Cast On.  And also matches the side edges when using the slip stitch.  More on using the slip stitch to create a nice chain edge in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip? That is the Frequently Asked Question

 

 

 

 

Now let’s discuss how to work the Basic Bind Off using all knit stitches like we all know and love.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

 

 

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2:  Knit peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the Knit Row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off – In Pattern including Purl Stitch

What does bind off in pattern mean exactly?  It means that the stitches worked on the basic bind off match the stitches in the stitch pattern used.

Wait…  What????

Here is where the explanation gets a bit trickier, but I will do the best I can.

Say the project being worked on is in garter stitch.  And you want to bind off on the purl row instead of working the purl row then binding off with that extra row of knit.

You will then need to work the basic bind off but purl the stitches instead of knitting them.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the purl row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are ending a project in rib stitch.  Then you would need to work each stitch on the bind off to match the rib stitch for that row.

 

Basic Bind Off using Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off with Rib Stitch while Stretched

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are using the seed stitch.  You will need to work each stitch of the bind off to match the seed stitch for that row.

Those previous 3 examples are what it means to bind off in pattern.  Your bind off matches your stitch pattern.

Now let’s try to write it out without it getting too confusing.

The bind off is still worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will still call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Using the stitch that will keep the stitch pattern going for the row, work peg 1.

Step 2:  Then work peg 2 in the stitch pattern.

If it is garter and you are binding off on the purl row, then you will purl peg 1 and peg 2.  If it’s a 1×1 rib with the first stitch on the row being knit and the second stitch being purl, then you will knit peg 1 and purl peg 2.  Or whatever stitch pattern you are using.

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.  Just remember that you will need to keep up with which peg needs a knit or a purl depending on what your stitch pattern is.

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off – Added Chain Stitch Between Bind Off Stitches

Sometimes it is hard to keep the tension loose enough so that the bind off is not too tight.  We all struggle with that.

What I always recommend is when working the bind off, make sure the stitch is very loose to the point you think it will be too loose.  But it is hard to keep all the stitches the same as you work them.

 

 

Here is a variation of the basic bind off where a chain stitch is added between each stitch giving the bind off edge more stretch.  And best part is a crochet hook is not need to work this bind off.

 

 

 

 

 

But this bind off will leave a little hole between each stitch because of the extra chain between the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

Note:  I will use “knit” for the stitch to work each peg.  But purl stitch can also be used on any peg to bind off in pattern except when an e-wrap knit is used to make the extra chain.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

Step 2:  E-wrap knit peg 1 again by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1 again and knitting over.  This is what creates the extra chain stitch.

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Knit peg 2.

Step 4:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 5:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 6:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 7:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

Repeat steps 2 – 7 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Now that the Basic Bind Off has been expanded to include more than just knit stitches, the bind off world is endless.  Just remember to keep in mind your tension so the bind off edge is not too tight.

Keep on loom knitting!

1 Comment

  • I was working on a rib pattern and I tried binding off in pattern using your excellent tutorial and it turned out fantastic. I hope this tutorial will be permanently stored in the “Learn” section of the web site. Actually there are many of these types of learning tutorials that would be easier for beginners to find if they were all stored in one place. Thank you for teaching us this nice techinque.

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May 8, 2017

Shawlette

 

We are delighted to bring to you a gorgeous shawlette designed by Denice Johnson. Grab your loom, yarn, and get started! 

Knitting loom: KB Hat Loom (84 peg configuration)

Yarn: Approx 380 yrds (190 g) of worsted weight yarn. Bernat Pop in Ebony and Ivory was used in sample.

Gauge: not important

Size: Ladies One Size (54″x 22″)

Abbreviations

K= ew knit

P= purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

WYIF= working yarn in front (do not wrap)

Inc1= increase 1

Dec1= decrease 1

Sk=slip stitch (skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg)

Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs and repeated for row

(ewrap and knit peg 1, ewrap and knit peg 2, move stitch from peg 2 and place

above stitch on peg 1, knit bottom stitch over, place wyif of peg 2)

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Stitch patterns changes will occur with a new color section in the yarn.

Cast on 1 st (this is starter peg, the stitch on this peg will never be moved) prepare to work a flat panel

SECTION 1:

Row 1: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 2: sk1, p to end

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 1 until color changes on the yarn (end on peg 1)

SECTION 2:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 of section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 3:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 4:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 5:

Worked the same as section 1

Continue to increase on right side until you reach peg 83 (84)

Now you will decrease instead of increase

Continue section until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 6:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 7:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 8:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 9:

Row 1 : sk1, p row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 until 1 st remains

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave end in. Steam block lightly

Have questions or comments, or simply want to thank the designer for sharing her pattern?  Please feel free to leave a message for Denice Johnson in the comments below. 

 

4 Comments

  • That’s gorgeous, Denice! Love it! :D

  • I love the pattern. I do have a question though. Is it possible to give us a row count for each section? I can’t get Bernat Pop in my area and would be doing this another yarn.
    Telling us how many rows for each section would make it easier to use this pattern.

  • Hi Bev,
    To answer your question, there is no exact amount of rows for each section. Depending on what yarn you use (any worsted yarn can be used) will get your row amount based on the length of that color. You can even use solids and just do color changes.

  • I too am curious about the row count, as Bernat Pop isn’t available where I am either. Hope we hear back from you! It’s a lovely pattern, I can’t wait to try it out.

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May 1, 2017

Diagonal Cross Stitch: Stitchology 32

Our newest venture into loom knitting stitch discovery is this lovely design that creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric.  Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. While this technique will employ the use of a cable needle, it doesn’t actually have any cables. The tool will be used to slip one stitch over 3 others to create the slightly honeycomb feel of this design. Let’s get started!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

 

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The yo-3 in this pattern involves slipping the yo loop over 3 stitches. This begins by creating a new loop which will be used as the yo loop.  In the charts, this is noted over the span of 3 sts/squares. In the instructions for the Repeating Pattern Rows, it is written like this: yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.

To do this, follow the below instructions:

1. yo-3 peg: place the working yarn (wy) under the loop already on the peg as if to purl.  Pull the wy up through the loop to create a new loop. Place this new loop temporarily on the 2nd peg before the yo-3 peg.  (For example: work from right to left: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. Create new loop and bring new loop behind peg 2, and place temporarily on peg 1.)

2. yo-3 peg: U-stitch the yo-3 peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Yo-3 peg in this example is on peg 3. U-stitch peg.)

3. Purl next peg. (For our example:  6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  Purl peg 4.)

4. U-stitch next peg. (For our example: 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.  U-stitch peg 5.)

5. Place 3 worked pegs (For our example: pegs 3-5) in order onto the left side of a cable needle.  Place new loop being held (For our example: on peg 1) onto far right side of cable needle.

6. Slip the new loop at the right over all three loops at the left, as well as entirely over the top of the cable needle.

7. Replace 3 held loops back onto pegs in order (For our example: pegs 3-5).

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

Repeating Pattern Rows- Flat Panel

Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches- Worked in the Round

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The stitches in both charts that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.  The stitches below the border squares are set-up rows to be worked only once, before the repeating rows. In the Flat Panel Chart, the stitches after the border square are worked only once at the end, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed. In the chart for working in the Round, there are stitches before and after the border squares that are worked only once: before all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, and after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Stitches, as are shown in each row of the chart.

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rows

Row 1:  *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 2:  *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.

Row 4:  *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 5:   k1, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.

Row 6: *p1, k1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 3-6 until desired length.

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Set-Up Rounds

Rounds 1 & 2: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rounds

Round 3: *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 4: *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Round 5:  S1 with working yarn behind, p1, *yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts.  The last stitch of round will carry over to the 1st peg of the same round (which was previously slipped): yo, k1, p1, k1, pass yo over 3 sts just worked.

Round 6: Begin on peg 2: p1, *k1, p1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 3-6 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

4 Comments

  • Would like to have the larger chart you briefly showed in the video that apparently was used in your sample…love the stitch and am anxious to try it…thanks.

  • Hi Marie :)

    Due to this new format and the extra time involved with creating the video, an entire pattern for the square will not be posted here. But currently, you can find the charts for the 8? x 8? squares since the new format began (Feb 2017: Lacy Hearts) and yarn information at the Ravelry page for each stitch. I hope this will help you to make gorgeous stitches with us! :) http://www.ravelry.com/designers/bethany-a-dailey

    Bethany~

  • Hi Bethany, I fell in love with this pattern and I am going to try it on a 90 peg loom repeating the pattern 44 times and the 2 extra pegs. I’m uncertain what cast on to use, but I want to try the cable cast on that matches needle cast on that I learned on good knit kisses you tube videos. Thank you for such a beautiful pattern.

  • Oh, wonderful, Jessie! :D I will look forward to seeing how your piece comes out! As for a cast on, the cable cast on I’m sure will work just dandy. My personal favorite is the chain cast on, which matches the basic bind off beautifully. :)

    Have fun with this!
    Bethany~

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