Spring Break Wristers

Spring Break often includes vacations to areas that are still covered in snow.  Fingerless mitts are still needed to keep hands warm while leaving fingers free for smart phones and other touch screen devices. 

 These Spring Break Wristers are quick to work up and can be knit school colors as well as your favorite colors.  The stitch pattern is easy and quick to work while looking like you spent days knitting them.

 

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom 2

YARN: 122 yds total of worsted weight yarn.  78 yds of Color A – teal and 44 yds of Color B – tan.   Classic Elite Yarn Palace in colors #5567 (teal) and 5578 (tan) (55% baby alpaca, 25% bamboo viscose, 20% donegal, 98 yards per hank, 1 of each color)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2” in stockinette stitch

SIZE:  Approximately 7” length with 8” circumference.  Fits adult women.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

s=slip (skip) (unless otherwise stated, slip with working yarn to back of peg behind the stitch)

wyif=working yarn in front (lift stitch off peg, slip working yarn between front of stitch and back of peg, replace stitch on peg)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rep=repeat

CA=Color A – Teal

CB=Color B – Tan

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2.

With CA, CO 36 sts.  Prepare to work in the round.

 

Cuff to Thumb

Rnds 1 – 12:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Add CB

R13:  With CB, K all

R14 – 15:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R16 – 19:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R20:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R21 – 22:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R23 – 26:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R27:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R28 – 29:  P all

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

R30 – 36:  Rep R16 – 22

Drop CA. Pick up CB.

R37:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

 

Thumb Hole with Selvage Edge

Start working flat panel.

Row 1:  With CB, S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 2:  S1 wyif, k1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

Row 3:  With CA, S1, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 4:  S1 wyif, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, K1

Rows 5 – 6:  rep rows 3 – 4, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 7:  With CB, S1, *K4, K2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 8:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 9:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 10:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, K1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Row 11:  With CA, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, P1

Row 12:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, K1

Rows 13 – 14: rep rows 11 – 12, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 15:  With CB, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, P1

Row 16:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 17:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Prepare to work in the round.

 

Thumb to Fingers

R1 – 4:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R5:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R6 – 7:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R8 – 11:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R12:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R13 – 14:  P all

Cut CB.  Pick up CA.

R15 – 20:  With CA, *K2, P2, rep from * around

BO using the Basic BO method.

Cut CA.

Weave in ends.

Lightly block.

 

1 Comment

• carolyn March 27, 2017 at 11:51 pm

  These are Beautiful & feminine , Thank you for the pattern. I want & hope to start on mine tomorrow . . <3

Loom FAQs: How Do I Work A Different Color Border?

 

 

 

 

 

Lately I have been looking at a lot of different yarn for various projects.  But it can be overwhelming.  Which is one reason I love self-striping yarn.  I can make a hat or scarf with self-striping yarn and let the yarn work it’s own magic without the hassle of changing colors.

But sometimes, colorwork is desired.  While there are various methods of colorwork in loom knitting, one of the questions I have seen is How do I made the border of my afghan a different color from the middle?  Well you are in luck!  Making a flat panel with a different color border is not as hard as it sounds whether it be a scarf, afghan, dish cloth, or other flat panel.  And even better, there are not a lot of ends to weave in either if it’s done correctly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s get started!

What stitch pattern should I use?

The stitch pattern used for the border and body can be whatever you wish.

If you don’t want the edges to curl, you do need to use a stitch pattern for the border that is a combination of knits and purls.  The body or middle of the flat panel can be all knits or stockinette or any other stitch pattern.

You can even work the entire piece in one stitch pattern and just change the colors to create a border effect.

For more information on why the edges curl, please check out Loom FAQs:  Why Do Knits Curl?

If you would like more information on the 3 simplest and most common knit/purl combinations that do not curl, please check out Loom FAQs:  Is It Garter, Rib, or Seed Stitch?

But I don’t want to weave in a lot of ends or have to join the yarn ends!!

Oh I feel you!  I absolutely despise weaving in ends, detest knots, and don’t like the floats or carried strands of yarn across the back of the work.

But you do not need to do any of those in order to create a border in a different color except for having a few extra ends to weave in.

But is it hard?

It is not hard at all to work the border in a different color.  But you will need to work with 3 strands of yarn after finishing the bottom border.

Why do I need to work with 3 strands of yarn?

First let’s start our sample piece, then discuss why 3 strands are needed.

Bottom Border

 

For our sample today, I will be working the border in garter with the grey yarn.

 

 

 

 

Then I will be adding the pink for the body in stockinette or all knits while working both side borders with the grey in garter before finishing the top border with grey in garter.  This way the middle will be pink and completely surrounded by grey.

 

 

I will NOT be slipping the first stitch on each row.  If you would like to create a nice chain border, you can learn more about slipping stitches in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip?  That is the Frequently Asked Question.

Here I have started my bottom border with the grey yarn on the Sock Loom 2 over 22 pegs and worked 8 rows (4 ridges) in garter stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Side Borders and Body

Now I will work the right border over 3 pegs.  Since I am working the border in garter, this row will be knit.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the yarn for the body which is pink for us here.   Leave the grey working yarn without cutting it.  We will pick it back up later.

How do I join the new color of yarn?

Some like to put the slip knot on the first peg of the new color.  I prefer to just start my new color as follows:

Simply work the first stitch in pink like normal leaving a tail to weave in later.  There really is not a need for a slip knot at all even on an anchor peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Won’t it leave a hole in that spot?

It will leave a hole if left alone, but you will close the hole when you weave in the end.  More information on weaving in ends can be found in Loom FAQs:  Why Not Knots?

For our sample, the body in the pink yarn will be 16 stitches.  I will be working every row of the pink yarn in all knits.  When the 16 stitches are complete, drop the pink yarn and join the second grey yarn.

 

 

 

 

 

Where do I get the second strand of grey?

If you are brave, you can pull 2 strands from one skein of yarn.  One side border from the middle of the skein and the other side border from the outside.

Otherwise you will need 2 skeins of grey or whatever color you are using for your border.

If making an afghan, you will be using more than one skein for the border anyway so I would recommend using 2 skeins from the start.

 

Join the second strand of border yarn in the same manner as before when starting the body color.

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the last 3 stitches.

 

 

 

 

Now for the return row.  This is where we will start connecting the border and body yarns together as we pick up the next color.

Since we are working the border in garter (still), purl the first 3 pegs on the return row with the grey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we will connect the grey with the pink by twisting the 2 yarns around each other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The easiest way is the bring the yarn you are picking up (the pink) around the back the yarn you are dropping (the grey)

 

 

 

 

 

so that they make a U, hooking them together.

 

 

 

 

 

Knit with the body color back across.  Which for us is 16 stitches to the other border.

 

 

 

 

We will now connect the pink with the grey from the other side in the same manner as before by bringing the yarn we are picking up (the grey) behind the yarn we are going to drop (the pink)

 

 

 

making that same U to connect them.  Then purl the last 3 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

When twisting the 2 strands of yarn together, take care to make sure the twist does not slide to one side or the other.  Keep your tension with the twist even so the twist is right between the pegs.  Or you will get this at your join.  You can see here where I was not careful to keep my twist centered between the stitches.

 

 

Then we repeat our last 2 rows connecting the yarns as we going on EVERY ROW.

Next Row will be as follows:  Knit 3 with the first border yarn.  Pick up the body color yarn.  Twist the 2 strands together.  Drop the border yarn. Knit 16 with the body color. Pick up the 2nd border color yarn.  Twist the 2 strands together.  Drop the body yarn. Knit 3 with the 2nd border yarn.

Next Row after that will repeat the purl border row from above.

But how do I keep my yarn from twisting together?

If you always connect the strands of yarn in the same way each time, the yarn will not get tangled since each row will unwrap the twist in the yarn from the previous row.  This is why the yarn must always be wrapped by bringing the yarn you are ready to pick up and work with behind the yarn you just finished and are ready to drop.

How do I keep the loop where I started the new color from being too loose when I am working the next row?

When working the stitch on the same peg that you joined your new color, gently pull the tail to tighten up the stitch.  Do not pull it too tight though.  Just enough to close up the loose stitch when you go to weave in the end.

If I were to write it out like a “real” pattern, it will look like this after the bottom border.

Row 1:  K3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, K3

Row 2:  P3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, P3

Repeat rows 1 – 2 until the work reaches desired length.

The twisting of the yarn together will always happen but  not be written in the instructions.  Also the colors will most likely be abbreviated with the abbreviations at the beginning of the pattern.

After working my desired number of rows, I am now ready for my top border after finishing a row with purls for the border.

Top Border

When you are ready to work the top border, you can cut the body color yarn and left side border yarn leaving tails long enough to weave in without cutting the right border yarn since this is the yarn we will use to work the top border.  If you are working in the opposite direction from what I am demonstrating then just switch those sides.  Just do NOT cut the side that you just finished the last row with.

Also you will need to start the border with the row of knit if using garter stitch.

I have now worked the top border with 8 rows of garter stitch to match the bottom border.

Bind off in your desired method, weave in those very few ends, and admire your work!

 

 

Now you are armed and ready to amaze people with your ability to loom knit an afghan with a different color border from the body.  So get with it!  *cracking whip*  Amaze us!

 

 

 

 

But above all, have fun!  Enjoy your work and let the loom knitting bring you joy and peace.  Happy loom knitting!

2 Comments

• CindyB March 20, 2017 at 7:39 pm

  Oh, i have been wondering how to do this forever! Thank you soooo very much! I am going to try it!
• Dusty R March 23, 2017 at 6:26 am

  Thank you so much for this tutorial! I actually wanted to make something this way recently and had no idea how to do it.

Bamboo Stitch (Double Knit)

Bamboo reminds us of tall erect stalks, and this version of the double knit rib looks very similar.  A very pretty design for most anything worked with even number of stitches.  The wide ribs are formed with 4 stitches in a series, but when opened, you will see lacy opening in center, between the 4 stitches.

Since this is a single pass of the loom, we will show illustration of 1st 10 stitches with row #1 and then, the 2nd illustration is row #2.

Row #1:     1          2           3             4              5             6             7             8              9           10

Row #2:     1             2             3           4            5             6              7                8            9             10

The minimum number of stitches to create this pattern would be 6 sts.  After that, add 4 more, so you can do it with 10 sts or 14 sts, 18 sts, or 22 sts, and on.  The reason for this is each row starts with either the 2 single wraps or the double wrap and it needs to end with same wrap.  You can see that the first 2 sts are back/to/back wraps.  The next 2 sts create a square or double wrap.  You keep alternating the 2 stitch series, and end with the series same as you began the row.  The next row or row #2, will start and end with the opposite series.

Look at the illustration and see the row #1 weave, the pegs 1 & 2 are single, pegs 3 & 4 are a double, pegs 5 & 6 are single, and 7 & 8 are a double, and 9 & 10 are single.

The row #2 will start with pegs 1 & 2 double, pegs 3 & 4 single, pegs 5 & 6 double, pegs 7 & 8 single, pegs 9 & 10 are double.  Once you do this a few rows, you will get comfortable with it and see your pretty design emerge.

How do you look at the completed row and know for sure which series you have just completed?  If you look at the illustration carefully, you will notice that with row 1, the yarn ends at peg #10.  That means that you just completed the 2 single pegs, so you want to start the next row with the double pegs.

If you look at row #2, you see that you end with the yarn coming from peg #9, so you just completed the double sts and will start the next row with 2 single sts.

Cast On in pattern(sample), or with stockinette, using row #1 as first row of pattern.  We will show only the first 10 sts.

Row #1:  Weave around peg #1 top, down to peg #1 bottom, up to peg #2 top, and down to peg #2 bottom.  Weave the next 4 pegs per the diagram.  Then next 2 consecutive, and continue across loom.

                                                                                

 

 

You are ready to hook over.  Repeat row#1 and hook over.  Repeat row #2, and hook over.

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3 Comments

• CindyB March 20, 2017 at 7:44 pm

  This is a beautiful stitch. Thank you for the tutorial and the diagram really helps!
• Pat N March 22, 2017 at 9:02 am

  Thank you Cindy. It is fun to do once you get comfortable with the sequence. Pat
• Jeff March 29, 2017 at 12:11 pm

  Thank you so much for sharing the double knit stitches. I prefer to use my boards for double knit, and all the stitchology techniques were beautiful but sadly “one sided”. Look forward to the Twisted Purl.

Stitchology 30: Twisted Trellis Stitch

*Updated on March 20, 2017 , specifically Rows 4 & 12 of pattern when working multiple repeats.

The celebration of the Fair Isle has come again…March is the month of St Patrick’s Day!  What better way to put us in the true spirit of all things green and magical than to work a stitch that whorls and twists across the pegs?   If it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂

Special Stitch Instructions

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The squares in the chart that are highlighted with yellow are fluctuating stitches, depending on how many repeats of the 8 stitch pattern are being worked.  If there is only one set of 8 stitches, these highlighted squares are simply purled.  If, however, there is more than one repeat of the 8 stitches, then these squares become the twists, either right or left, that are noted in the chart and instructions below (see Rows 4 & 12).

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1:  p1, k2, p5

Row 2:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Row 4:  ***When working Row 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Row 6:  p1, LT2, p5

Row 7:   p5, k2, p1

Row 8:   Repeat Row 6

Row 9:   Repeat Row 7

Row 10: Repeat Row 6

Row 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Row 12:  ***When working Row 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Row 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Row 14:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 15:  Repeat Row 1

Row 16:  Repeat Row 2

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Round 1:  p1, k2, p5

Round 2:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Round 4:  ***When working Round 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Round 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Round 6:  p5, LT2, p1

Round 7:   p5, k2, p1

Round 8:   Repeat Row 6

Round 9:   Repeat Row 7

Round 10: Repeat Row 6

Round 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Round 12:  ***When working Round 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Round 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions:  p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Round 14:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 15:  Repeat Row 1

Round 16:  Repeat Row 2

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

7 Comments

• CindyB March 19, 2017 at 8:17 am

  This is a very cute stitch pattern and I like the new format. Thanks for taking the time to introduce us to differnt stitch patterns and the full instructions. Would the look of the backside be suitable for a scarf? Or better worked in the round as a tube scarf? I am currently working on the barber pole stitch pattern and I cant loom quick enough to try this one!
• Bethany Dailey March 19, 2017 at 10:19 am

  Hi CindyB! 🙂 I’m so pleased you’ve been liking both the stitches and the new format.

  The back of this stitch is pretty cute! It almost looks like mermaid scales, or reversed honeycomb. It would make a nice scarf, in my opinion. 🙂

  Bethany~
• CindyB March 20, 2017 at 9:15 pm

  I had a question on row 4
  ***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, end p1

  As written, the stitch count is 12 stitches . So if i do two repeats of the stitch pattern, That would be 20 stitches? Rows 1-3 are multiples of 8 so how do i make up the difference of 4 stitches on rows 1-3? Sorry to ask…
• Bethany Dailey March 20, 2017 at 10:25 pm

  Hi Cindy 🙂 Please don’t ever be sorry for asking a question. I’m always happy to help! …and in this case, you actually helped *me*! 😀

  Okay…this part is a little bit confusing, so let me see if I can help explain in another way. If you look at the chart for the repeating stitch pattern, you’ll see that in Row 4 the pattern sort of overlaps itself where it actually extends into two extra stitches on each side of the 8 pegs of the pattern. This row, with those stitches in place, actually begins with a right twist. Because the pattern won’t be beginning the row with a peg it doesn’t actually have, this right twist won’t happen yet. You will start the row with 3 purls, just this first time through the repeat. Then you’ll begin working the pattern repeat: LT2, p2, RT2, p2. Where I actually ended up adjusting the pattern was where to put that little ‘ol asterisk. It should be in front of the RT2 so that the repeating pattern will end with the LT2, p2. The corrections are now included in the pattern above.

  For your convenience, your instructions all written out for 2 repeats of the pattern would be:
  p3, LT2, p2, RT2, p2, LT2, p2, p1. = 16 pegs. 🙂

  Thanks for checking in so that we could get this nailed down!
  Bethany~
• CindyB March 21, 2017 at 10:14 am

  Thank you for the help Bethany. I am starting my scarf tonight.
• Ginny April 2, 2017 at 12:57 pm

  I am trying to make the squares as we were doing previously on the loom
  I went to the Ravelry site and found the pattern with the squares that have symbols for the different stitches
  But the rows are different and Rt2 is sometimes LT2 due to the even and odd rows being different?
  If I follow your pattern and just add the border 2 rows will it come out ok?
  Also is there a way to copy the Ravelry chart enlarged?
  I’ve been trying for days to do this
  HELP. PLEASE
  Thanks
• Bethany Dailey April 3, 2017 at 10:31 am

  Hi Ginny 🙂

  The actual row numbers of the entire square pattern will differ a bit from the Repeating Stitch Pattern, because there have been added additional rows and stitches into the square’s design. Because of this, you won’t use the video to make the square as written. You can learn the stitches through the video, then use the chart’s instructions to work the square correctly. The instructions will generally be the same…it’s just the row numbers that will be different. Also, please see the notes below the video (as well as here in the pattern post), as there were a couple rows that were adjusted. 😉

  As for saving the chart from Ravelry, simply click on the chart so that it is featured in the pop-out style, right click on the photo and choose the “Save As” option to save to your computer.
  Hope that all helps get you going!
  Bethany~

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

• Ginny March 11, 2017 at 9:41 am

  I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
  Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
  Can you clarify this for me in some way?
• Ginny March 11, 2017 at 9:55 am

  Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
  Should there be a yo there?
• KB Designer March 11, 2017 at 3:09 pm

  Ginny, what number is this row?
• KB Designer March 11, 2017 at 3:14 pm

  Ginny,
  At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
  Row 1: k to end of row.
  Row 2: p to end of row.
  These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

  The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
  Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
  Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
  The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

  Hope the above helps.
• Ginny March 12, 2017 at 10:43 am

  The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
  Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?
• KB Designer March 12, 2017 at 12:18 pm

  No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

  Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.
• Ginny March 12, 2017 at 8:25 pm

  Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
  Now I feel ready to start
  The shawl is gorgeous
  I just hope I can make it
  Thanks for all the help
• Ginny March 16, 2017 at 7:12 am

  Sorry me again
  I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

  The explanation indicates
  Over 3 pegs
  Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
  Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
  Knit peg 3
  Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
  Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

  The pattern has
  Yo,CDD,yo
  Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
  Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

  Is there avideo on this or can there be one?
• Ginny March 21, 2017 at 8:53 pm

  How do you do a CDD?
• KB Designer March 21, 2017 at 9:35 pm

  Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.
• KB Designer March 21, 2017 at 9:44 pm

  I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

  This is the way I would do it:
  3 2 1

  Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
  Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
  Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
  Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

  You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

  Hope the above helps.
• Ginny March 22, 2017 at 12:59 pm

  Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
  I need clarification
  Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
  Or
  Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
  Or
  Does it mean something else?
  Thank you once again for your help
• KB Designer March 22, 2017 at 4:13 pm

  You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/
• Lisa Callahan March 29, 2017 at 7:18 am

  Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love
• Mary March 29, 2017 at 7:57 am

  What method of cast on do you use.
• Deb Follett April 3, 2017 at 5:56 am

  Hello,
  Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
  Any help is appreciated
• Dare April 3, 2017 at 12:18 pm

  This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:55 am

  The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:56 am

  Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 8:56 am

  Thank you!
• KB Designer April 4, 2017 at 9:00 am

  Hi Deb,

  The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.
• Deb Follett April 4, 2017 at 9:03 pm

  Thank you!
• Ginny April 6, 2017 at 9:42 am

  Thank you so much for the video Isela
  It makes things clearer for a newbie
  Much thanks
• Mary April 6, 2017 at 11:48 am

  I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

  Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

  Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

  I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

  Thanks! appreciate it.