Oh, i have been wondering how to do this forever! Thank you soooo very much! I am going to try it!
Spring Break Wristers
Spring Break often includes vacations to areas that are still covered in snow. Fingerless mitts are still needed to keep hands warm while leaving fingers free for smart phones and other touch screen devices.
These Spring Break Wristers are quick to work up and can be knit school colors as well as your favorite colors. The stitch pattern is easy and quick to work while looking like you spent days knitting them.
LOOM: Sock Loom 2
YARN: 122 yds total of worsted weight yarn. 78 yds of Color A – teal and 44 yds of Color B – tan. Classic Elite Yarn Palace in colors #5567 (teal) and 5578 (tan) (55% baby alpaca, 25% bamboo viscose, 20% donegal, 98 yards per hank, 1 of each color)
NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle
GAUGE: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2” in stockinette stitch
SIZE: Approximately 7” length with 8” circumference. Fits adult women.
ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch
p=purl stitch
s=slip (skip) (unless otherwise stated, slip with working yarn to back of peg behind the stitch)
wyif=working yarn in front (lift stitch off peg, slip working yarn between front of stitch and back of peg, replace stitch on peg)
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rep=repeat
CA=Color A – Teal
CB=Color B – Tan
INSTRUCTIONS
Make 2.
With CA, CO 36 sts. Prepare to work in the round.
Cuff to Thumb
Rnds 1 – 12: *K2, P2, rep from * around
Drop CA. Add CB
R13: With CB, K all
R14 – 15: P all
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
R16 – 19: With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around
Drop CA. Pick up CB.
R20: With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around
R21 – 22: P all
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
R23 – 26: With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around
Drop CA. Pick up CB
R27: With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around
R28 – 29: P all
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
R30 – 36: Rep R16 – 22
Drop CA. Pick up CB.
R37: With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around
Thumb Hole with Selvage Edge
Start working flat panel.
Row 1: With CB, S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1
Row 2: S1 wyif, k1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1
Drop CB. Pick up CA.

Thumb hole with double selvage edges
Row 3: With CA, S1, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1
Row 4: S1 wyif, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, K1
Rows 5 – 6: rep rows 3 – 4, once
Drop CA. Pick up CB.
Row 7: With CB, S1, *K4, K2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1
Row 8: S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1
Row 9: S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1
Row 10: S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, K1
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
Row 11: With CA, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, P1
Row 12: S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, K1
Rows 13 – 14: rep rows 11 – 12, once
Drop CA. Pick up CB.
Row 15: With CB, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, P1
Row 16: S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1
Row 17: S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
Prepare to work in the round.
Thumb to Fingers
R1 – 4: With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around
Drop CA. Pick up CB
R5: With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around
R6 – 7: P all
Drop CB. Pick up CA.
R8 – 11: With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around
Drop CA. Pick up CB.
R12: With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around
R13 – 14: P all
Cut CB. Pick up CA.
R15 – 20: With CA, *K2, P2, rep from * around
BO using the Basic BO method.
Cut CA.
Weave in ends.
Lightly block.
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Loom FAQs: How Do I Work A Different Color Border?
Lately I have been looking at a lot of different yarn for various projects. But it can be overwhelming. Which is one reason I love self-striping yarn. I can make a hat or scarf with self-striping yarn and let the yarn work it’s own magic without the hassle of changing colors.
But sometimes, colorwork is desired. While there are various methods of colorwork in loom knitting, one of the questions I have seen is How do I made the border of my afghan a different color from the middle? Well you are in luck! Making a flat panel with a different color border is not as hard as it sounds whether it be a scarf, afghan, dish cloth, or other flat panel. And even better, there are not a lot of ends to weave in either if it’s done correctly.
Let’s get started!
What stitch pattern should I use?
The stitch pattern used for the border and body can be whatever you wish.
If you don’t want the edges to curl, you do need to use a stitch pattern for the border that is a combination of knits and purls. The body or middle of the flat panel can be all knits or stockinette or any other stitch pattern.
You can even work the entire piece in one stitch pattern and just change the colors to create a border effect.
For more information on why the edges curl, please check out Loom FAQs: Why Do Knits Curl?
If you would like more information on the 3 simplest and most common knit/purl combinations that do not curl, please check out Loom FAQs: Is It Garter, Rib, or Seed Stitch?
But I don’t want to weave in a lot of ends or have to join the yarn ends!!
Oh I feel you! I absolutely despise weaving in ends, detest knots, and don’t like the floats or carried strands of yarn across the back of the work.
But you do not need to do any of those in order to create a border in a different color except for having a few extra ends to weave in.
But is it hard?
It is not hard at all to work the border in a different color. But you will need to work with 3 strands of yarn after finishing the bottom border.
Why do I need to work with 3 strands of yarn?
First let’s start our sample piece, then discuss why 3 strands are needed.
Bottom Border
For our sample today, I will be working the border in garter with the grey yarn.
Then I will be adding the pink for the body in stockinette or all knits while working both side borders with the grey in garter before finishing the top border with grey in garter. This way the middle will be pink and completely surrounded by grey.
I will NOT be slipping the first stitch on each row. If you would like to create a nice chain border, you can learn more about slipping stitches in Loom FAQs: To Slip or Not To Slip? That is the Frequently Asked Question.
Here I have started my bottom border with the grey yarn on the Sock Loom 2 over 22 pegs and worked 8 rows (4 ridges) in garter stitch.
Side Borders and Body
Now I will work the right border over 3 pegs. Since I am working the border in garter, this row will be knit.
Join the yarn for the body which is pink for us here. Leave the grey working yarn without cutting it. We will pick it back up later.
How do I join the new color of yarn?
Some like to put the slip knot on the first peg of the new color. I prefer to just start my new color as follows:
Simply work the first stitch in pink like normal leaving a tail to weave in later. There really is not a need for a slip knot at all even on an anchor peg.
Won’t it leave a hole in that spot?
It will leave a hole if left alone, but you will close the hole when you weave in the end. More information on weaving in ends can be found in Loom FAQs: Why Not Knots?
For our sample, the body in the pink yarn will be 16 stitches. I will be working every row of the pink yarn in all knits. When the 16 stitches are complete, drop the pink yarn and join the second grey yarn.
Where do I get the second strand of grey?
If you are brave, you can pull 2 strands from one skein of yarn. One side border from the middle of the skein and the other side border from the outside.
Otherwise you will need 2 skeins of grey or whatever color you are using for your border.
If making an afghan, you will be using more than one skein for the border anyway so I would recommend using 2 skeins from the start.
Join the second strand of border yarn in the same manner as before when starting the body color.
Knit the last 3 stitches.
Now for the return row. This is where we will start connecting the border and body yarns together as we pick up the next color.
Since we are working the border in garter (still), purl the first 3 pegs on the return row with the grey.
Now we will connect the grey with the pink by twisting the 2 yarns around each other.
The easiest way is the bring the yarn you are picking up (the pink) around the back the yarn you are dropping (the grey)
so that they make a U, hooking them together.
Knit with the body color back across. Which for us is 16 stitches to the other border.
We will now connect the pink with the grey from the other side in the same manner as before by bringing the yarn we are picking up (the grey) behind the yarn we are going to drop (the pink)
making that same U to connect them. Then purl the last 3 pegs.
When twisting the 2 strands of yarn together, take care to make sure the twist does not slide to one side or the other. Keep your tension with the twist even so the twist is right between the pegs. Or you will get this at your join. You can see here where I was not careful to keep my twist centered between the stitches.
Then we repeat our last 2 rows connecting the yarns as we going on EVERY ROW.
Next Row will be as follows: Knit 3 with the first border yarn. Pick up the body color yarn. Twist the 2 strands together. Drop the border yarn. Knit 16 with the body color. Pick up the 2nd border color yarn. Twist the 2 strands together. Drop the body yarn. Knit 3 with the 2nd border yarn.
Next Row after that will repeat the purl border row from above.
But how do I keep my yarn from twisting together?
If you always connect the strands of yarn in the same way each time, the yarn will not get tangled since each row will unwrap the twist in the yarn from the previous row. This is why the yarn must always be wrapped by bringing the yarn you are ready to pick up and work with behind the yarn you just finished and are ready to drop.
How do I keep the loop where I started the new color from being too loose when I am working the next row?
When working the stitch on the same peg that you joined your new color, gently pull the tail to tighten up the stitch. Do not pull it too tight though. Just enough to close up the loose stitch when you go to weave in the end.
If I were to write it out like a “real” pattern, it will look like this after the bottom border.
Row 1: K3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, K3
Row 2: P3, drop border color, pick up body color, K16, drop body color, pick up border color, P3
Repeat rows 1 – 2 until the work reaches desired length.
The twisting of the yarn together will always happen but not be written in the instructions. Also the colors will most likely be abbreviated with the abbreviations at the beginning of the pattern.
After working my desired number of rows, I am now ready for my top border after finishing a row with purls for the border.
Top Border
When you are ready to work the top border, you can cut the body color yarn and left side border yarn leaving tails long enough to weave in without cutting the right border yarn since this is the yarn we will use to work the top border. If you are working in the opposite direction from what I am demonstrating then just switch those sides. Just do NOT cut the side that you just finished the last row with.
Also you will need to start the border with the row of knit if using garter stitch.
I have now worked the top border with 8 rows of garter stitch to match the bottom border.
Bind off in your desired method, weave in those very few ends, and admire your work!
Now you are armed and ready to amaze people with your ability to loom knit an afghan with a different color border from the body. So get with it! *cracking whip* Amaze us!
But above all, have fun! Enjoy your work and let the loom knitting bring you joy and peace. Happy loom knitting!
2 Comments
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Thank you so much for this tutorial! I actually wanted to make something this way recently and had no idea how to do it.
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Bamboo Stitch (Double Knit)
Bamboo reminds us of tall erect stalks, and this version of the double knit rib looks very similar. A very pretty design for most anything worked with even number of stitches. The wide ribs are formed with 4 stitches in a series, but when opened, you will see lacy opening in center, between the 4 stitches.
Since this is a single pass of the loom, we will show illustration of 1st 10 stitches with row #1 and then, the 2nd illustration is row #2.
Row #1: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Row #2: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
The minimum number of stitches to create this pattern would be 6 sts. After that, add 4 more, so you can do it with 10 sts or 14 sts, 18 sts, or 22 sts, and on. The reason for this is each row starts with either the 2 single wraps or the double wrap and it needs to end with same wrap. You can see that the first 2 sts are back/to/back wraps. The next 2 sts create a square or double wrap. You keep alternating the 2 stitch series, and end with the series same as you began the row. The next row or row #2, will start and end with the opposite series.
Look at the illustration and see the row #1 weave, the pegs 1 & 2 are single, pegs 3 & 4 are a double, pegs 5 & 6 are single, and 7 & 8 are a double, and 9 & 10 are single.
The row #2 will start with pegs 1 & 2 double, pegs 3 & 4 single, pegs 5 & 6 double, pegs 7 & 8 single, pegs 9 & 10 are double. Once you do this a few rows, you will get comfortable with it and see your pretty design emerge.
How do you look at the completed row and know for sure which series you have just completed? If you look at the illustration carefully, you will notice that with row 1, the yarn ends at peg #10. That means that you just completed the 2 single pegs, so you want to start the next row with the double pegs.
If you look at row #2, you see that you end with the yarn coming from peg #9, so you just completed the double sts and will start the next row with 2 single sts.
Cast On in pattern(sample), or with stockinette, using row #1 as first row of pattern. We will show only the first 10 sts.
Row #1: Weave around peg #1 top, down to peg #1 bottom, up to peg #2 top, and down to peg #2 bottom. Weave the next 4 pegs per the diagram. Then next 2 consecutive, and continue across loom.

After the first row, lay the anchor yarn. Turn the loom around and work row #2. You are now starting with the 4 pegs, then 2 adjacent, then 4 pegs according to diagram.
You are ready to hook over. Repeat row#1 and hook over. Repeat row #2, and hook over.

Rib Stitch Variations! Twisted Purl Stitch (tan) Spiraling Rib Stitch (pink), and the Bamboo Stitch (white).
3 Comments
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This is a beautiful stitch. Thank you for the tutorial and the diagram really helps!
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Thank you Cindy. It is fun to do once you get comfortable with the sequence. Pat
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Thank you so much for sharing the double knit stitches. I prefer to use my boards for double knit, and all the stitchology techniques were beautiful but sadly “one sided”. Look forward to the Twisted Purl.
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Stitchology 30: Twisted Trellis Stitch
*Updated on March 20, 2017 , specifically Rows 4 & 12 of pattern when working multiple repeats.
The celebration of the Fair Isle has come again…March is the month of St Patrick’s Day! What better way to put us in the true spirit of all things green and magical than to work a stitch that whorls and twists across the pegs? If it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do! The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.
We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column. Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions. We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes. We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! 🙂
Special Stitch Instructions
To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.
For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:
[rt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right. Place the held loop onto the peg on the left. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.
[lt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left. Place the held loop onto the peg on the right. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.
*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant. So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right. For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.
Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern
*Note: The squares in the chart that are highlighted with yellow are fluctuating stitches, depending on how many repeats of the 8 stitch pattern are being worked. If there is only one set of 8 stitches, these highlighted squares are simply purled. If, however, there is more than one repeat of the 8 stitches, then these squares become the twists, either right or left, that are noted in the chart and instructions below (see Rows 4 & 12).
Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin from right to left/clockwise):
Row 1: p1, k2, p5
Row 2: p5, LT2, p1
Row 3: RT2, LT2, p4
Row 4: ***When working Row 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.
***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 5: p4, LT2, RT2
Row 6: p1, LT2, p5
Row 7: p5, k2, p1
Row 8: Repeat Row 6
Row 9: Repeat Row 7
Row 10: Repeat Row 6
Row 11: p4, RT2, LT2
Row 12: ***When working Row 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.
***When working Row 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 13: LT2, RT2, p4
Row 14: p5, LT2, p1
Row 15: Repeat Row 1
Row 16: Repeat Row 2
Repeating Pattern Rows for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):
Round 1: p1, k2, p5
Round 2: p1, LT2, p5
Round 3: RT2, LT2, p4
Round 4: ***When working Round 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.
***When working Round 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Round 5: p4, LT2, RT2
Round 6: p5, LT2, p1
Round 7: p5, k2, p1
Round 8: Repeat Row 6
Round 9: Repeat Row 7
Round 10: Repeat Row 6
Round 11: p4, RT2, LT2
Round 12: ***When working Round 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.
***When working Round 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Round 13: LT2, RT2, p4
Round 14: p1, LT2, p5
Round 15: Repeat Row 1
Round 16: Repeat Row 2
Have questions or comments? Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.
7 Comments
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This is a very cute stitch pattern and I like the new format. Thanks for taking the time to introduce us to differnt stitch patterns and the full instructions. Would the look of the backside be suitable for a scarf? Or better worked in the round as a tube scarf? I am currently working on the barber pole stitch pattern and I cant loom quick enough to try this one!
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I had a question on row 4
***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, end p1As written, the stitch count is 12 stitches . So if i do two repeats of the stitch pattern, That would be 20 stitches? Rows 1-3 are multiples of 8 so how do i make up the difference of 4 stitches on rows 1-3? Sorry to ask…
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Thank you for the help Bethany. I am starting my scarf tonight.
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I am trying to make the squares as we were doing previously on the loom
I went to the Ravelry site and found the pattern with the squares that have symbols for the different stitches
But the rows are different and Rt2 is sometimes LT2 due to the even and odd rows being different?
If I follow your pattern and just add the border 2 rows will it come out ok?
Also is there a way to copy the Ravelry chart enlarged?
I’ve been trying for days to do this
HELP. PLEASE
Thanks
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Lady of Rohan Wrap
Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front.
LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)
YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.
NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle
OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”
GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette
SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide
ABBREVIATIONS
k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)
p=purl stitch
st(s)=stitches
k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease
yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)
ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease
cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.
Stitch Patterns
Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)
Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso
Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1
Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)
Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1
Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 14: k to end of row.
Garter stitch
Row 1: k to end of row.
Row 2: p to end of row.
Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.
Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.
Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.
Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).
Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.
Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 24: p3, k161, p3.
Row 25: k to end.
^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
**Next row: p3, k161, p3.
Next row: k to end.**
Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Rep from ** to **: 4 times.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Rep from ** to **: 3 times.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Rep from ** to **: 2 times.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Rep from ** to **: 1 time.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.
Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.
Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.
Next row: p to end.
***Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end. ***
Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.
Bind off with basic bind off method.
Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.
Work 78 garter stitch ridges.
Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: k to end.
Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: k to end.
Next row: p to end.
Bind off with basic bind off method.
Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).
Assembly
Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.
Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).
Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.
If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.
Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below.
24 Comments
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I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
Can you clarify this for me in some way? -
Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
Should there be a yo there? -
The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands? -
Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
Now I feel ready to start
The shawl is gorgeous
I just hope I can make it
Thanks for all the help -
Sorry me again
I need to understand the CDD-centered double decreaseThe explanation indicates
Over 3 pegs
Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
Knit peg 3
Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2The pattern has
Yo,CDD,yo
Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of patternIs there avideo on this or can there be one?
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How do you do a CDD?
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Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
I need clarification
Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
Or
Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
Or
Does it mean something else?
Thank you once again for your help -
Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love
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What method of cast on do you use.
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Hello,
Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
Any help is appreciated -
This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?
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Thank you!
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Thank you so much for the video Isela
It makes things clearer for a newbie
Much thanks -
I have braindead, Could you please explain this.
Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4
I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.
Thanks! appreciate it.
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These are Beautiful & feminine , Thank you for the pattern. I want & hope to start on mine tomorrow . . <3