Browsing articles in "Techniques (How-to)"
Aug 21, 2012

Q & A: What does yarn weight mean?

Q: I am new to knitting and to the fiber arts in general. I don’t know how to read patterns and I am trying to get used to a lot of the terminology. I see yarn weight a lot. What does it mean?

A: In the simplest terms, yarn weight translates into yarn thickness, the circumference around the strand of yarn. There are about 6 yarn thicknesses currently in the market. The Craft Yarn Council of America has given them numbers from 1-6. At the lowest range, we have the thinnest yarn, at the opposite spectrum we have the thickest, at number 6.

How about if you don’t have the yarn weight called for in your pattern? No worries, you may be able to substitute with a different thickness of yarn. BUT, be sure to work a swatch and be sure to obtain the correct gauge.

Here is a quick substitution yarn guide:

2 strands of fingering=1 strand of sport weight yarn

2 strands of sports=1 strand of worsted

2 strands of worsted=1 strand of bulky

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Aug 20, 2012

Q & A: Number of pegs to use for a sock heel

We have gotten a few questions in the past few days. One of them has to do with socks and sock heel numbers.

How many stitches do I use on to create the heel of a 50 peg sock?

We first are going to divide the total number of pegs used by 1/2. 50/2=25

Second, from that 1/2, we are going to short-row until 1/3 of that number remains. The number is not exact, it can be rounded up or down. 25/3=8.33. I would short row, until there are 8 pegs wrapped at each side and then the center 9 are unworked. It should be 8 wrapped, 9 unwrapped, 8 wrapped.

General formula:

x=number of total pegs used in the sock

z=round up or down to obtain the wrapped number of pegs.

Proceed as follows:

x divided by 2=y

y divided by 1/3=z

3 Comments

  • I have just bought a sock loom and excitedly tried it out. It is now in the cupboard and I doubt I will be using it again. The stitches were tight and as I have arthritis? I had all sorts of problems getting the stitches off the pegs. The tool supplied was hard to manage and I was and am very dissapointed I wasted the money I paid for it. I have no trouble knitting gloves (with needles) and they are fiddly but socks have always eluded me. I followed the instructions again and again but my knitting was always the same. I envy you all who have one and can use it with ease. If anyone would like mine I will send it to you, it may get some use that way.
    Hln

  • I am right with you, Helen. Maybe 3 hours isn’t long enough to learn to cast on. I tried and tried and cried and cried. I couldn’t get past the part where you pull the stitches up after the first 6 or 7 it was just too tight and they wouldnt pull up. And I have searched this site and other to try to figure out what they are counting as cast on stitches since you go around with the “e stitch” twice and then pill up the stitch how many is that one per peg, 3 per peg. I can’t figure this out. maybe I am too stupid to knit and I will just stick to sewing

  • Oh dear ladies! The sock loom and sock yarns ARE slightly more difficult than other looms – I attribute it to the skinny metal pins and the bulky wood.

    You can knit socks on the blue Knifty Knitter loom! They will be thicker (though that could also be attributed to the fact I used Worsted Weight), so you’ll have more of a slipper sock, but you WILL have socks!

    Brienna – You wrap the yarn around 1 time, then go around again, so you have 2 wraps on every peg. Now you will pull the bottom loop over the top on each peg, so there’s only 1 again. Now you wrap the yarn around so there are 2 again, then repeat. You CAN make multiple wraps, which will make a tighter weave. In THAT case, you would pull the the bottom loop over the others, then the next one over, until there was 1 loop again.

    Perhaps, too, you are wrapping too tightly? I wish I could see what you are doing so I could offer better advice, but I hope what I said above makes some sense?

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Jul 20, 2012

Increases Mini-Series: Make 1 (M1)

M1=Make 1

Make 1 is an increase that is worked into the horizontal strand of yarn running between two stitches. There are two types of Make 1’s, a left twist  M1L and a right twist M1R. Some patterns do not specify which type of Make 1 to use, whenever the pattern doesn’t specify, it is safe to use the M1L.

M1L=Make 1 left. Twist the horizontal strand of yarn CLOCKWISE.

M1R=Make 1 right. Twist the horizontal strand of yarn COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

3 Comments

  • Isela,
    Thanks so much for doing the mini-series on increase. I know this will help a lot of the knitters, including myself. I know them all in needle knitting just wasn’t sure on the loom. Thanks again for all your wonderful help!!! Any new races coming up?

  • Using 50 pegs. How do I get 2/3rds out of the 25 for the heel/toe?

  • Hello,

    How do I M5 on same stitch? The stitch guide says M5 (make): (k1,YO, K1, YO, K1) in same st: 5 sts in one made.

    The pattern calls for the following.

    row 1: K1; *P5tog, M5 in next st; rep from * to last st, K1.

    This is really confusing. Please help me understand how to do this.

    Thanks,
    Melitza

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Jul 18, 2012

Increases Mini-Series: knit 1 front and back (k1f&b)

Knit 1 front and back (k1f&b)

It is one of the most commonly used increases. It is a visible increase as it creates a horizontal bar wherever you create the increase.  Also known as the bar increase because of the horizontal bar it creates.  To create this increase, you will need an empty peg to the right of the peg where you want the increase. Name the pegs as follows: Peg A (peg with loop on it) and Peg B (empty peg).

Step 1: Knit the stitch as usual on Peg A. Instead of popping the loop off the peg as you normally would when creating a knit stitch, place the newly formed loop on the adjacent empty peg (Peg B), leaving the original loop on Peg A and the new loop on Peg B.

Step 2: Wrap Peg A counterclockwise. Lift the bottom loop off the peg, leaving one loop on the peg.

Continue working the row.

Here is a visual for your convenience.

2 Comments

  • Hi Isela,

    Could you tell me, on what type of project would this be used ? What purpose does this have? thx
    Congrats on joining the Knitting Board site.! :)

  • I have looked at looms and plan on purchasing one this weekend,is it as easy as you make it seem? I knitted years ago when in school,but that is all,I needle tatt and sew and always looking at new ways to make items.I have MS and want to keep going by making beautiful items as a type of therapy,any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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Jul 11, 2012

Felted Slippers Q&A

Question: How do you do the k2tog?

Answer:

There are various ways that you can do this, my preferred method and in my  head the easiest.

Step 1: Take all the stitches off the loom and transfer them to a piece of scrap yarn.

Step 2: Put the loops back on the pegs as follows: 2 loops per peg, except for in the second decrease, you will have the last peg with only 1 loop.

Now, go ahead and knit the pegs.

Hope this helps.

 

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Jul 6, 2012

Increases Mini-Series: Yarn Over (YO)

Yarn Over, abbreviated as YO. In needle knit patterns, it can also be referred as yarn around needle (YRN), yarn forward (YF), and wool around/over needle  (YON). This type of increase creates a small hole in the knitting, within the row where you create the increase.

To create the YO, simply e-wrap the peg counterclockwise.

Working with YOs: When a pattern calls for a YO within the knitted fabric, we are going to need to move the stitches outwards to create an empty peg where we want the YO located. In the video shown, I demonstrate how to increase within the fabric. There are two methods: First method: move the stitches out to create the empty space then knit the stitches and e-wrap the empty peg. Second method and my preferred method when only increasing one stitch is to knit the stitches and move them to their new peg after I have knitted them (as shown in the video). When the pattern calls for a YO at the beginning of a row, it is quite simple, just e-wrap the next adjacent empty peg to the first/last peg of the fabric.

 

3 Comments

  • Hello,
    I am going to try making making my first pair of socks on the sock loom. I would appreciate help with understanding “Join to form a round”. Do I connect the stitches on the pegs with a special stitch or how do I do so? Thank you for help from a new loom knitter.

  • Marilyn, you connect them in various forms, the easiest method is to simply interchange the loop from the last peg with the loop from the first peg.

  • To join in the round is a simple way to say that we will be knitting around the knitting loom and not a flat panel. One easy way to join in the round is to take the yarn coming from the last peg to the front of the first peg and continue wrapping the loom around and around. Another method is to interchange the last loop on the last peg with the loop from the first peg. Hope this helps.

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Jun 19, 2012

Mini-Series on Increases:

In the next couple of weeks, we are going to learn some new increases and how to create them on our knitting looms. We will be tackling the following: YO, M1, M1L, M1R, LLI, RLI, K1F&B, P1F&B, KRB.

Inc: Increase–what is it? It is a way to add stitches to your knitting either on a row or in the round. While adding stitches on a row in simple, adding stitches in the round is a little bit more tricky for us loom knitters are most of our looms have a set peg number and we cannot “add” pegs to our loom. However, with our AllnOne loom, we can add in the round! Yay for us!

Swing by later this week and we will go over a YO and how to create it on our loom.

 

4 Comments

  • Can’t wait to see it!

  • So looking forward to this–I try to ignore patterns that make be do anything other than the basics so will enjoy learning more about increasing.

  • It’s great you are sharing and increasing our knowledge base. Just a suggestion, it would be most helpful if the mini series were compiled in one place for easy and permanent reference.
    Thank you for making me a better loomer.

  • I will try to put a link on the side bar to this knowledge base. Thank you for the feedback.

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May 29, 2012

LAL: Sole & Toe

Hi friends,

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday weekend. I guess, we are all coming along well with the sock. I didn’t receive any questions in respect to the heel, if any of you are stuck, please leave me a comment and I will do my best to help you.

This week, we are going to finish our sock. The Sole is straight stockinette (knit all the rounds) and you do this until the sole measures approximately, 2 inches less than desired length for the foot.

Once we have knitted the sole of the sock, we will repeat the instructions that we did for the HEEL portion one more time to create the extra fabric for the toe section.

Let’s get to that point and then we will continue to the very last portion where we seam the toe close using the KITCHENER STITCH.

6 Comments

  • I finished the second sock today. Hurray! They were really fun to make and fit very well. Thanks for the knit a long.

  • I finished my first sock. Way to tight in the heel. What did I do wrong?

  • Hello, I have great hope for assistance with a question and my two new looms (AllnOne and the sock loom). I am having a difficult time understanding the cable-cast-on method, can someone suggest a good resourse for me to use? The pattern book I have suggest using this method lots, but I am having a difficult time following the written info and pictures in the book. Also, can someone please explain “Join to form a round” when working on a loom? Does this mean I do a special stitch between the pegs to connect them? Thank you for help.

  • I am trying to make ruffle scarf on long loom I am having problem with yarn being too tight when transferring to other side. What should I do differently. Is it the lack of stretch in yarn. I am using red heart sashay.

  • Can you please go over or repost finishing the sock with the kitchener stitch? Thank you!

  • I will look for it and repost it. Thank you.

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May 21, 2012

LAL: Heel

How is everyone’s socks coming along? At this point, you should have completed the leg portion of the sock. Next up is the heel. The heel is formed by working short-rows. Short rowing is a knitting technique that adds extra room by creating extra fabric in one area. Short rowing involves knitting to a certain point in your knitting and then turning back in the other direction, leaving some stitches at the end of the row unworked–thus the term “short”. Turning in the opposite direction will leave a small hole in the knitting, to avoid this hole, we “wrap” the peg and then “turn” in the apposite direction.

To work the heel, you will be working on half the stitches that you used for your sock. Locate the number of stitches on your sock, then use the number indicated for the heel.

Heel instructions as written for the pattern (I have included some starting instructions in parenthesis for those who are working on more pegs than indicated in the pattern):

HEEL

The heel is worked in short rows to create the extra fabric to accommodate the heel.

*Tip: Place stitch marker on peg 1 and peg 20 (or the last peg where you need to knit your sock).

Knit from peg 1 to peg 19 (or to 1 peg before reaching the last stitch marker). Wrap & Turn on peg 20 (on last peg).

Knit from peg 18 to peg 2. Wrap & Turn on peg 1.

Knit from peg 2 to peg 18 (or to two pegs before the last stitch marker). Wrap & Turn on peg 19 (on second to last peg).

Knit from peg 18 to peg 3. Wrap & Turn on peg 2.

Knit from peg 3 to peg 17. Wrap & Turn on peg 18.

Knit from peg 17 to peg 4. Wrap & Turn on peg 3.

Knit from peg 4 to peg 16. Wrap & Turn on peg 17.

Knit from peg 16 to peg 5. Wrap & Turn on peg 4.

Knit from peg 5 to peg 15. Wrap & Turn on peg 16.

Knit from peg 15 to peg 6. Wrap & Turn on peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to peg 14. Wrap & Turn on peg 15.

Knit from peg 14 to peg 7. Wrap & Turn on peg 6.

(There will be 6 pegs at each side with wraps and 8 pegs in the center without wraps).

Knit from peg 7 to peg 15. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 16.

Knit from peg 15 to peg 6. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to peg 16. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 17.

Knit from peg 16 to peg 5. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 4.

Knit from peg 5 to peg 17. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 18.

Knit from peg 17 to peg 4. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 3.

Knit from peg 4 to peg 18. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 19.

Knit from peg 18 to peg 3. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 2.

Knit from peg 3 to peg 19. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 20.

Knit from peg 19 to peg 2. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 1.*

Heel completed, continue with the rest of the instructions, working in the round from this point forward (Pegs 1 and 20 have wraps on them, treat the wraps and the loop on the peg as one loop).

Let me know if you have any questions, concerns and I’ll come answer the questions this evening and tomorrow. Let’s get the heel done this week and next week we will tackle the sole.

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May 8, 2012

Double Woven Socks LAL: Leg portion

Let’s go ahead and start on the leg portion of the pattern.

Rnd 11: *SKYF2, k2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13: *k2, SKYF2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14: k to the end of rnd.

 

 

Repeat Rnds 11-14 until sock leg measures 6 inches or desired length.

A few concerns on Round 11 and 12.

Round 11 is all a matter of skipping two pegs with the yarn in front of the peg and then knitting the next two pegs.

Round 12 is where the tricky part comes in. You need to knit all the pegs, but you have to place the strand that is front of the peg towards the back of the peg but in front of the right side of the fabric.

I prepared a small video showing how to do this on the knitting loom.

Let me know if this helps a bit on how to do this section of the sock.

Also, here is a playlist of mini-videos to help you with this pattern.

7 Comments

  • Thanks. The video was very helpful

  • Thanks for the video – very helpful!

  • Can you tell me how many stitches to wrap for my sock using 52 pegs? Thanks

  • I finished the first sock and started the second one.

  • Mary, I would wrap 44 pegs.

  • Mary, you are a knitting sock rockstar!

  • I’ve been so busy I am still to finish the leg on the first sock.

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May 6, 2012

LAL-Getting started

Alright, I think we got the numbers of pegs ironed out and we are ready to get this started! Yay!

Let me just quickly write down some numbers here for you, in case you didn’t see my comments in the comments section.

So let’s get ready to cast on our knitting loom, shall we! For the first part of the LAL, let’s do the first 10 rows.

Cast on INSERT NUMBER OF PEGS NECESSARY FOR YOUR FOOT, join to work in the round.

Rnds 1-4:k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from *  to the end of rnd.

Rnds 6-9: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 10: Pick up cast on edge and place the loops back on the peg as if creating a brim. K to the end of rnd.

How to do round 5?

Move the loop from every odd number peg to the neighbor peg, loop from peg 1 to peg 2, loop from peg 3 to peg 4, loop from peg 5 to peg 6…to the end.

Then, you will e-wrap peg 1, knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 2 as one loop. Continue in this form til the end of the round.

How to do round 10?

Find the cast on round (it is the first round you put on the loom), locate the first loop (it is right by the yarn tail), place that loop back up onto peg 1. Grab the next loop to it, place it onto peg 2, continue around until you have picked every loop from the cast on edge and it is sitting back on the loom. Each peg should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round.

Let’s get to this point and on Monday, we shall begin the leg portion of the sock.

Questions, concerns, just hit me in the comments below and I’ll answer in the comments for you.

Have a great weekend!

18 Comments

  • I didn’t see the comments. I’ll c o 36 sts from your chart, but I got 50 sts from measuring my foot. I don’t want to get behind. Jackie

  • I’ve done my 10 rows on 36 sts. It looks small to me. I got 11sts 15 rows =2 “. My foot is 8.5” first I got 50 pegs and now go 46. I don’t want to go any further until I’m sure of how many cast ons I need. Jackie

  • Jackie – 8.5 x (11/2) x 0.9 = 42.075
    You need to round this to the nearest multiple of 4 (40 or 44) for this pattern. I would round it down to 40 sts. I have the same stitch gauge as you, but a 9 1/4 foot measurement. I rounded down to 44 sts for my foot size. Hope this helps!

  • Thanks Sharon. I’m going to start over. I don’t want to have socks I can’t wear. I appreciate your help. Jackie

  • When you wrap every peg on rnd. 6, it will have 3on every other one and 1 on the others. How can you knit every st? I’m confused Sorry

  • Went back and re-read the pattern. All straightened out. Have my 10 rows done. My only excuse is my age. I’m 80 and get confused sometimes

  • Do you have a recommendation for the best cast on for a sock?

  • You need a flexible cast on for socks, I would recommend the cable cast on or the ewrap cast on.

  • Isela–
    Would it be possible for you to make a video of your knit stitch (skyf2) used in this pattern? I’m still not getting it right….drats!

    Thanks!! It’s so nice of you to share this lovely pattern with us!

  • Just found your video and watched it. Thanks. Will continue with my sock now.

  • Isela,

    I have a question about the loom you use in your book: LOOM KNITTING SOCKS. I bought a set of round looms at my local Walmart that are made by Boye. Are they the same gauge as the KK that you use in your book? I know they are a larger gauge then the AKB sock loom, that i’m currently using to knit socks with. I was just wondering if they could be used to make the socks in your book.

    Thank you,
    Maxine

  • I am finding that my knit stitch is coming out very uneven. I was wondering about trying a flat stitch instead. Are there any benefits of one over the other?

  • I finished the first sock and it fits pretty well. Now to make the other one.

  • The flat stitch will work, just make sure that you don’t knit too tightly. ;)

  • Maxine,
    I don’t think they are the same gauge. The looms I used in that book are finer in gauge, those are considered extra fine gauge, the KB sock loom is a fine gauge loom. You can use the KB loom but you will need to adapt to the gauge given on the KB sock loom.

  • Thank you Isela. Guess i didn’t read the part about which looms you used in making the socks. Looking at the photos, i thought you used the round ones, but further reading, i saw which ones you used.

  • have just got sock knitting loom from authentic knitting and finding it sooo different from kk looms.cant seem to get a loose enough stitch to hook over,any help will be great.thanks

  • Chris,
    Practice, practice, practice. The more you use the loom, the easier it will get and the stitches will become less tight as you get more comfortable with the loom.

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May 3, 2012

Socks Loom-a-Long: Swatch

Hi everyone,

I hope I have given you enough time to knit up that swatch and get things rolling a little more. At this point, you should have completed the swatch and measured it. So far we have the following numbers:

11 sts x 16 rows = 2 inches

9.5 sts x 21 rows = 2 inches

Anyone else?

Next step: please measure around the ball of the foot of the person who you are going to be knitting the sock. Check out this link on how to measure your feet, you want to do #4 on the list.

Once we have the gauge and the measurement around the ball of the foot, we can more accurately calculate how many stitches to cast on.

For example: my foot measures 8.5 inches around and I got a gauge of 9.5 sts=2 inches. You can do the math two ways: Divide 8.5 inches (measurement around the ball of the foot) by 2=4.25 x 9.5 (multiply that by the stitches per in, 9.5)=40.375

Or

Divide the stitches in the 2 inches by 1. 9.5/2=4.75  then multiply that number by the measurement around the ball of the foot. 4.75 x 8.5=40.375

Socks are knitted at a negative ease so they fit snugly around the foot, the negative ease that we typically use for socks is around 10%. From the number we arrived at, 40.375 for my foot, we are going to decrease 10%. I round up or down so I am left with a multiple of 4 of the necessary multiple for the sock pattern.  In this case, I am rounding down to 36 pegs.

Okay my dears, now it is your turn. You have your gauge, now measure your foot and see if you can calculate the number of pegs needed for your socks. If you can’t, no worries, post in the comments the following: Gauge, measurement of the ball of the foot at widest point and then say HELP ;).

I will come by tomorrow, Thursday to get us going in the right direction with the number of pegs to use for our sock.

52 Comments

  • I would go to 48 pegs. It is closer to 48 than 44.

  • ok I know this is not what everyone is talking about but PLEASE HELP !!!!!! in doing the dangbury hooded can anyone tell me what a circular means im using a loom and im stuck, im on the front of sweater button side
    ty

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May 2, 2012

Q & A: Twisting Yarns

Q & A:

Deanna asks: I’m using doubled yarn to make an afghan for a child. ( I’m a beginner ) . The yarn gets so twisted – HELP! How do you prevent this ?

Deanna,

We all at one point or another have had to use two yarns as one and unfortunately we have all probably been found like a cat tangled amidst yards of yarn. I have done it so many times that I distinctly remember one day being so tangled up that I just cut the yarns and threw the big knot in the garbage, hahaha, I guess I lost my patience there for a bit.

Two methods I have found to be successful:

1. Wind each skein into a center pull ball then, keep one yarn to my left and one yarn to my right. I get two boxes, or two bags and I set each one by my right foot or left foot. I pull both them at the same time and have a small “pool” of yarn on my lap ready to be worked. Once I finished the “pool” of yarn, I go ahead and pull a little more onto my lap.

2. Wind the two separate skeins into one single skein. Both of them will be together and ready to be knitted.

I hope this helps a bit. Do any of our readers have any other suggestions?

Here kitty kitty

 

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Apr 27, 2012

Dropped Stitches

It happens to the best of us. You are busy knitting and purling and all of a sudden you get distracted and next thing you know, you look at your knitting and there it is, a big hole and ladders going all the way down. You panic and right away you see your many hours of work going down the drain! But wait! Before you go ahead and throw the knitting loom at the first person you see, check out this video. It will show you how to pick up a dropped knit stitch. Try it, it may just save your project.

How about a purl stitch? Here is a video demonstrating how to pick up a dropped purl stitch.

Written instructions on Picking up a Dropped Knit Stitch:
1. Insert a crochet hook from front to back through the loop of the bottommost dropped stitch.

2. With the crochet hook, catch the bottommost ladder (horizontal piece of yarn connecting one stitch to the other) and pull it through the loop of the dropped stitch. Thus creating the new loop stitch.

3. Repeat step 2 above until you have picked up all the ladders and you are at your last row/round of your fabric.

4. Remove the crochet hook from that piece of yarn.

5. When you’ve picked up the last dropped stitch, place that last loop onto empty pege and continue working.

But how about if you have a boatload of stitches that you have dropped or you have just realized that instead of knitting one entire row you purled it and you must go back to that row and fix it. First, locate the row/round below the one with “trouble”. Then, pass a piece of contrasting color yarn through EACH of the stitches, this yarn will hold all the stitches in place so you do not lose any other stitches. Now the scary part, take all the loops off the pegs and unravel all the stitches until you reach the row/round with the piece of scrap yarn. Next, place the stitches that are on the scrap yarn back on the knitting loom.

I found another great source for picking up dropped stitches, it is for knitting on needles but the same concept applies when picking up a dropped stitch. The source is from VogueKnitting.com

Happy looming!
Isela

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Apr 8, 2012

Loom a Hat on the AIO

AllnOneHat smallerAll-n-One Knitting Loom Hat Numbers

The table provided has 3 different numbers, one for DK weight yarn and the other two with worsted weight yarn.  I have gotten two different gauges with the worsted weight yarn. I have gotten 4.5 and 4 stitches to the inch. I provided a table with both gauges. All the hat numbers have a 15% negative ease already built in. For example, the adult male hat, with 84 pegs at a gauge of 4.5 stitches will yield a tube that is about 18.6 inches. We want a hat to fit snugly, approximately about 10-15%, with a 15% negative ease, this hat will fit a circumference up to 21.4 inches. All the peg numbers provided have also been rounded to a multiple of 4, if you do not need a multiple of 4, deduct or add 2 pegs.

Hat shown in the picture on the right is a DK weight hat using 84 pegs.

AIO Hat numbers

This table was updated on 7/8/13 to include DK weight numbers.

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Apr 5, 2012

Stripes

Ready to try some color in your knits? I love stripes! I love horizontal stripes, vertical stripes and lately, I have been in love with diagonal stripes. Stripes are a great way to use up all the odd bits of yarn left over from bigger projects.  One look at my stash and I should probably dedicate a year of my life to knitting with stripes, oy! One of these days, I’ll take a picture of my stash room for you all to see–must organize it first, it is a mess! I seem to organize it every Spring and Fall but then in between, tornadoes hit that area of my house and everything explodes onto the guest bed. But, I digress, stripes, let’s tackle some stripes today–diagonal stripes to be me precise.

Diagonal stripes fall into the category of colorwork, fair isle to be more exact. It is one of the first and easiest ways to get you started with fair isle, only two colors, easy to handle and yet provides a beautiful design. When carrying the two yarns around, it is important to remember the order in which you pick up (PU) the yarns to knit them–this is called yarn Dominance.

A little bit about yarn dominance–no, this does not mean that your yarn will take over your entire house! When knitting with two color yarns, you will have one background color and one dominant color.  The way in which you pick up the yarn to knit/work it will determine which color will be the dominant color and which will be your background color (I like to think of this as the filler). When picking these two yarns to work on them, choose the one that you want to be your dominant color and always pick up from UNDER the other color. Then for the background color, reach ABOVE the other color.  For example, in our little project today, I have chosen the orangy/brown color to be my less dominant color, so whenever I reach for that color yarn, I grab it and make sure that my other yarn, the white color, remains below, so I reach above the white strand of yarn and grab the orange/brown and knit the two pegs. Once I am done with the orange color, I grab my dominant color, the white one, and make sure that I grab it from below my orange/brown strand. Keeping the same order throughout the project will provide you with a crisp and neat knitted fabric. So, if you were to remember anything from today’s little lesson, it is the following: Imperative to be consistent in the order in which you pick up the yarn you are using. Write it down on your pattern so you remember…just in case you happen to see a SQUIRREL!

Let’s try it out. You can either do a sample swatch or if you have enough time, join me in knitting this little hat–small enough but big enough to make it useful ;).

Get some yarn, two different colors, same weight and your loom. I am going to use my AllnOne knitting loom for my sample. Go ahead, cast on a multiple of 4 stitches (4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, etc), I am going to cast on for a child hat. I am casting on 64 pegs, enough for a baby size. Go ahead and work up a brim of your choice. No idea what to do for the brim, it’s okay, I’ve got you covered, scroll below for a simple pattern.

For your convenience, I have put a small chart on how we are going to do the colorwork.

How to read the chart: Start at the bottom-right corner and read towards the left. Then, move up to row 2 and again, read from Right to Left. Continue up to row 3 and then Row 4.

Some definitions before we get started:

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

MC=main color

CC=contrasting color

PU=Pick up

st(s) =stitches

BO=bind off

DIRECTIONS

Stripes on the Go

With MC cast on 64 (or any multiple of 4)

Round 1- Round 8:*k2, p2; rep from * to the end of the round.

Join CC

Round 9:  *pu MC  k1, pu CC k2, pu MC k1: rep from * to the end of rnd

Round 10: *pu MC k2, pu CC k2; rep from * to the end of rnd

Round 11: *pu CC k1, pu MC k2, pu CC k1; rep from * to the end of rnd

Round 12: *pu CC k2, pu MC, k2; *rep from * to the end of rnd

Repeat Rnds 9-11 until hat measures 7 inches from cast on edge or desired length.

Next rnd: Using MC, k to the end of round.

Next: BO with gather removal method.

Weave ends in.

How should your stripes look? Here is a little peak at mine.

Need to see it in action, here is a video that I created years ago in working with color. Move it to about 2:57 and it shows the bit about yarn dominance. You only need to watch about 1 minute of it, starting at 2:57. It will show you how to pick up the yarns. Now, go and try it out and then come and show me pictures of your hat or swatch.

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Mar 15, 2012

Last Minute Slouchy Hat: How to videos

Video Loom-a-long for the Last Minute Slouchy Hat is up!Kids and all n one loom 022

In part one, we cover set up of the loom and we work through the first 8 rounds of the hat. At the end of Part I, you will have the brim done–the part with the ribbing of the hat.

Gather your materials and let’s get started!

 

Last Minute Slouchy Hat Loom-Along. In part 1, we covered the first 8 rounds of the pattern. In Slouchy Hat 018part 2, we will cover Rounds 9-12.

Round 9: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round.
(How to:  *Move the loop from the first peg over to the second peg, first peg is empty, second peg has 2 loops on it. E-wrap the first peg thus creating the YO. Then ewrap the second peg, lift the bottommost two loops off the peg. Repeat from * to the end of round)

Round 10: Knit with the e-wrap method.

Round 11: Move stitch marker one peg to the left (peg 2). This peg (peg 2) becomes Peg 1.  *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round. (How to: see Row 9 on the break down).

Round 12: Knit with the e-wrap method.

Part 3 will be posted next week–it will cover the Gather Bind off.

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Feb 5, 2007

Rib Stitch–when increasing we shift our starting position?

When doing the Rib Stitch, we create  each rib with 2 stitches that form a pair.   To maintain the pairs or ribs, we need to start on same  needles with each row, and that is the first to the third needles.   But, what happens when we decrease a stitch at beginning of row; we alter the formation of the pairs, or, we leave only one stitch for the first rib.

So, we must start the knitting by skipping that lonely single stitch, and start with the next rib.   So, the first stitch stands alone, and we start the row on needles 2 and 4.   This will keep the pairs and the ribs continuing without shifting.   The first stitch will be picked up in the return of the circular.

ribchange.JPG

Then, when we do another decrease, we will eliminate the lonely first stitch.   So the next pair of stitches becomes the needles 1 and 3.   So we will continue the knitting by going back to the original sequence.

What if we increase now.   Well, we just added the lonely first stitch back and we would shift back to the 2 and 4 starting for each row.

The important thing here is to compensate for the loss of a part of a rib and maintain all the others in their sequence.

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Feb 3, 2007

How to Increase and add new stitches….

When your knitting starts with a smaller amount of stitches, and then widens with many additional stitches, you will use this type of increase.   For instance, if you want to go from say 10 stitches to 30 stitches in the next row, how do you do this? Actually it is quite simple to do.   This addition of stitches can be all on one end of the existing knitting or added to both ends.

Example:   In the Men’s Cabin slippers, this type of increase is needed.   Another example is the Bold Stripe Sweater.

Let’s say that you have been knitting with 10 needles and you  have one loop on each needle and you want to go to 30 stitches in the next row.  You are increasing 10 stitches on each side to have a total of 30 stitches.   You will Cast On 10 new stitches at front of knitting and 10 new stitches at back of knitting.

  • First,  cut the yarn of your 10 stitches of the current knitting.
  • Make a loop knot in yarn supply, and place loop on the needle 10  to the  left of your knitting, on board farthest from knitter. (This is like starting from the beginning)

increasing1.JPG

  • Weave the yarn around the bare needles in pattern.    When you get to the cut end of yarn at beginning of current knitting, tie the new yarn to the cut tail of yarn.    Weave across the existing knitting and  continue for 10 additional more needles.

increasing2.JPG

increasing3.JPG

  • Weave back, to finish your circular over all 30 stitches.
  • Hook over the 10 stitches in the middle (they have 2 loops on each needle.)  Place   an anchor yarn  over the 2 areas where you just started new stitches.   These are new Cast On stitches.   They have only 1 loop at this time.

increasing4.JPG

  • Weave another circular over all 30 stitches and hook over all.    You now have 30 stitches on your board.   You will want to Bind Off the new stitches for a finished edge once piece is completed.
  • This process is used on sweaters where the sleeves are knit into the front and back of the sweater.   The entire piece is one continous piece of knitting.   If you’re doing stripes, you can always do the increase in  different color for next stripe.

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Jan 17, 2007

Putting a design in your knitwear

I am going to   explain how to graph your design and put in your knitwear. A great benefit of double knit is  the ability to create a design and have no backside. The design is actually on both sides.

I am going to explain how to incorporate a “CIRCLE DESIGN” in your knit. it is best if you use a   bulkier yarn so that you don’t see your in-between row.

circle_on_board1.JPGFirst of all you want to get graph paper like the paper below. Draw your design and then put “X” in the spots that are contained in the shape you are creating. I put in the X’s to make my circle.

  • 1st row – knit  with 4 stitches of the circle
  • 2nd row- knit with 8 stitches of the circle
  • 3rd row – 8 stitches
  • 4th row – 10 stitches………

Then you continue each row until you finish with 4 stitches on the 12th row.

circle_design.gif

This is the 9th row – 8 stitches of circle, looping every pin back and forth.

 circlerow9.JPG

 The you take the opposite color yarn (brown) and weave every other in the same pattern skipping the needles already wrapped.

1st weave…

circlerow9a.JPG

 Return weave…

circlerow9b.JPG

Now every needle is covered and you just loop over. And then you start your 10th row ( another 8 stitches).

I hope this helps with graphing your design.

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