Browsing articles in "Techniques (How-to)"
Feb 16, 2015

Loom FAQs: How do I convert?

Loom-FAQs1When looking through all the questions regarding loom knitting, there are always several different questions pertaining to patterns that are not loom knit.  Can I use knit patterns for needles on the loom?  How do I convert a needle pattern to the loom?  How can this crochet pattern be made on a loom?  And usually a lot of begging and pleading for someone to PLEASE convert this for good of loomers everywhere…

How do I convert this crochet pattern to the loom?

That one is easy because crochet cannot be converted (sometimes called translated) to knit.  At all.  While there is a site that tells you how many rows of knit equal the height of crochet stitches, you cannot convert crochet to knit.  They are 2 completely different methods.

A person can always create a pattern replicating a crochet design, but it will look different due to the different and unique natures of each art.  With knitting, you have same number of live stitches as the project is wide.  So if a project is 30 stitches wide, you will have 30 live stitches or loops.  In traditional crochet, no matter how wide the project, you will only have 1 live stitch.  This changes how the projects in each are worked making them completely different.  Also the stitches are completely different as well.

Now that that FAQ is out of the way, let’s move on to needle knit patterns…

Can all needle patterns be converted to loom knit?

Theoretically all needles knit patterns can be worked on looms.  But some of the more complicated stitches are extremely difficult to work on looms due to the restriction caused by the distance between pegs.  In other words, when required to move stitches around when working larger cables for instance, the stitches just cannot reach that far.

Also loom size and gauges of looms may restrict us in what we can make from needle knit patterns.  Some looms may not have enough pegs, or the looms do not come in the proper gauge for certain patterns.

How do I convert needle knit patterns?

Other than the obvious (which is the tool used to knit), the main difference between needle knitting and loom knitting is the side of the work that is facing us when working a flat panel.

When knitting with needles, the person only works in one direction.  So a right handed person will usually work from right to left.  The work is then turned at the end of the row, and the next row is worked from right to left again.  So every other row has the wrong side facing the knitter.

With loom knitting, the right side of the work is always facing us.  The work is never turned like in needle knitting.  We work in both directions on flat panels and not just in one direction each time.

Patterns are written 2 ways: in the round (circular) and flat panels.  Hats are an example of circular knitting, and scarves are an example of flat panels.  First thing you need to do is determine which type of pattern it is.

Flat panel patterns

When converting a flat panel pattern or stitch pattern to loom knit, you will first need to know which rows are the wrong side.  Most times, it will be the even rows.  Most patterns will tell you which is the wrong side rows.  Those are the rows that will need to be changed.  You will leave the right side rows exactly like they are written.

You will then change the stitch to the opposite stitch on the wrong side rows.  So knits will become purls and purl will become knits.

You will also need to achieve gauge which I will talk about in a bit.

Circular or in the round patterns

One thing to look for to determine if a pattern is written in the round is the type of needles used.  If circular or double point needles are used, then it is most likely a circular pattern.  Next read the cast on row.  If it says to join the cast on without twisting the stitches, then it is definitely a circular pattern.

The wonderful thing about these patterns is that you do not need to convert them at all.  Since they are circular or in the round, they are worked just like we work items on the loom.  The right side is always facing us.  The work is never turned.   Therefore, the only thing you need to do is achieve gauge.  If gauge is achieved, then just work as written.  More on that later.

What is a stitch pattern?

A stitch pattern is just for the stitch itself.  Each pattern uses a certain stitch.  The stitch pattern is just the instructions for that stitch.  While there are a lot of stitch patterns that have been converted or translated for the loom, there are still lots more out there for us to convert from needles to loom.  Bethany Dailey has been sharing some wonderful stitch patterns with us in her Stitchology segments.  Be sure and check those out if you haven’t been reading her articles already.

Stitch patterns are written to cast on a certain number of stitches as a multiple of the stitch + an extra number.  For instance, double ribbing for a flat panel would listed as multiple of 4 + 2.  In other words, (knit 2, purl 2) is 4.  You would then multiple that by however many repeats you need to get the width desired.  Then add 2 for the 2 extra knits at the other end.

To convert a stitch pattern, just follow the same instruction for a flat panel.

If you want to use the stitch pattern in the round, you will leave off the added stitches after the +.  In the example of double ribbing, it will just be a multiple of 4.

Achieving Gauge

Make a swatch on the loom that has the number of pegs for the number of stitches and see if the gauge is the same that is required for the pattern.

If it matches, then just work it as you have converted for flat panels or as written for circular.

If not, then you will need to make adjustments for the number of stitches you will need to cast on.  You can refer to my previous article on gauge and how to calculate peg count, just click here.

You will need to keep in mind that if there are increases or decreases while working in the round, you will need a loom that will adjust to the stitch count you will need for that round, like the All-n-One loom.

Needle gauge equivalents to loom gauge

Here is a rough idea of what gauge knitting needles are equivalent to loom gauges.  So when a pattern calls for certain size or gauge needles, you will know what gauge loom to try.  This information was kindly provided to me by Isela Phelps a few years ago.  Please remember this is a rough equivalent.

Needle size (mm size)       Loom gauge (center to center peg spacing)

2 – 3 (2 3/4 – 3 1/4)                    extra fine (3/16″)

4 – 5  (3 1/2 – 3 3/4)                   fine (1/4”, 5/16”)

6 – 7  (4 – 4 1/2)                          small (3/8″)

8 – 9 (5 – 5 1/2)                           regular (7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16”)

10 – 11 (6 – 8 )                              large ( 5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4)

13 (9)                                            extra large (13/16″, 1″)

If you need instruction on measuring the center to center peg spacing on looms, please refer to my article on gauge by clicking here.

I hope this helps answer your questions on converting or translating needle knit patterns to loom knit.  Happy loom knitting!

3 Comments

  • thanks Renita! This information is really useful. I especially like the needle / peg comparison.

  • Hi Sue & everyone,

    I hope I have the right blog to post this time. I’m trying again. Please clarify:

    # of stitches on Loom – I’m using AIO Loom to make Socks

    Foot Circus = 12.5 , gauge =7 , 12.5 x 7 = 87.5 87.5(0.85) = 74.3 I rounded off to 74 pegs

    Heel & Toe = 37 pegs. Are these # of pegs correct?

    Thanx,
    Deana

  • Another great source of patterns would be machine knit patterns. Any stitch that can be done on a knitting machine can be done on a knitting loom. The basics between the two are really the same. There are thousands of knitting machine patterns available. ????

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Jan 19, 2015

Loom FAQs: What is Felting?

Loom-FAQs1

Here’s another Frequently Asked Question that I see over and over.  What is felting?  Or How do I felt my project?  Or even Why would I need to felt?  So let’s just start at the very beginning with the “what” then go on to the “how”.  We will even cover the “why”.

What is felting?

Felting is a method of shrinking the fibers in the yarn after a project is finished so that the stitches sort of melt together and make a nice solid, thick, dense fabric.  Ever had a helpful spouse or child put a wool or, heaven forbid!, a cashmere sweater in the washer by accident and have it come out 3 sizes too small?  They successfully (if unintentionally) felted your sweater.  And probably felted your wrath as well…

You may see some people refer to this process as fulling or being fulled.  It is the same thing.  At one time, fulling was the process that produced the felted material.  But these days, the words have merged, and felting has become the dominate term.

Why would I want to felt a project?

Felting makes sturdy bags, warm hats, wonderful mittens, and comfy slippers.  Also felted diaper covers have a wonderful waterproof, yet still breathable, property that mothers using cloth diapers prefer.

What fibers can I felt?

Animal fibers are the only fibers that will felt.  No cotton, silk, linen, acrylic, etc.  And there are a variety of animal fibers to choose from.  But please note that if the label says it is superwash, then it will not felt.  Superwash wool has been treated so it can be machine washed.  Therefore it will not felt.

Wool from sheep is the most commonly used animal fiber for felting.  Other animals fibers that felt well are cashmere, alpaca, llama, camel, mohair, yak, bison, and angora.  I will say that angora will shed something fierce due to the guard hairs.  The different fibers will felt a little differently so you may want to test the fiber by felting a swatch first before using it in a project.

The preferable percentage of animal fiber is 100% .  While some will say you can felt 80% or above, any other addition that is not animal fiber, like acrylic or nylon, will keep the wool from felting as well as needed.  And any blend of the animal fibers I mentioned will felt as long as they are not mixed with non-animal fibers like acrylic or silk.

What causes animal fiber to felt?

The fiber has microscopic scales on the surface.  Ever seen a picture of hair under a microscope?  It looks like is has cracks in it.  That is scaling.  Different animals or breeds will have different size scales.  The combination of temperature change and friction will cause the scales to stand up and interlock with neighboring scales causing the shrinking and thickening of the fabric.

How much does felting cause a project to shrink?

The percentage of shrinkage will depend on the fiber and how long you leave it in the washer.  The longer you run it, the more it will felt.

Can I felt any finished project?

No.  You will need to make sure you have used the right fiber for felting, have made it larger than you want the finished item to be, and have worked the stitches loose enough.  Always plan for felting before working your project.  It shouldn’t be an afterthought.

Can I use my washing machine to felt or do I have to felt by hand?

While you can felt by hand, it is very hot and tedious work.  I prefer using my washing machine.  On that note, when using a washing machine, it is much easier to use a top loading washer since you will be stopping and checking the item on a regular basis.  It can be done in a front loading washer, but you would need to drain the tub each and every time you check.  So if you have a front load washing machine, you might want to find a friend with a top loading washer who is kind of enough to let you use his or hers or go to a nearby Laundromat.

Why does the white wool not felt as well?

White, cream, and other shades of white may not felt as well as darker colors.  This is because the chemicals used to bleach out any color has damaged the fiber.  It will still felt.  Just not as much.

How do I felt my project?

First you need to gather the items you will need.

You will need something to put the item in like a zippered pillowcase or lingerie bag.  This will protect your project from catching on anything.

You will also need a helper for the agitation.  You need that extra friction.  Old jeans that are no longer worn work great.  You will need 2 pair.  You can always buy a couple of pairs from a thrift shop.  I would not suggest towels due to the fuzz they leave on the item.

You will also need wool wash or baby shampoo.  This will help open up the scales and aid in the felting.  Also helps with the wet animal smell.  You will only use 1 – 2 tablespoons.

Rubber gloves are nice to have as well since you will be dealing with very hot water.

A top loading washing machine is preferable as previously mentioned.

And last but not least, the project to be felted.

Set your washer to small load and hot water.  Start your washer.  If your washer is by a sink, I would suggest running the hot water in your sink to get it flowing so less cold water will go into the tub when filling.

Put your item in the zipper bag and place in washer with the 2 pair jeans.  Add 1-2 tablespoons of wool wash or baby shampoo.

Run the wash cycle for about 5 minutes.  Stop the machine.  Wait for it to stop then get the bag out.  You will want to wear your rubber gloves for this since the water is hot.  Unzip the bag and take the item out.  If you can still see the stitches or it’s still too big then it’s not ready.  Put it back in the bag, zip it, and put back in the washer.  Run for another 3 minutes and check again.  Repeat until you get the size you need or until the stitches seem to disappear.

Be very careful when felting hats, mittens, slippers, or anything where size matters.  You do not want to over felt the items and make them too small.  I have done that before with a hat.  Now my daughter has it…

DO NOT run the spin cycle.  This will cause your work to have creases and be misshapen.

When you take the bag out after you have it fully felted, you can then run the rest of the wash, rinse, and spin cycle for the jeans.

Take the item out of the bag.  Rinse the item if you used baby shampoo and squeeze all the excess water out without wringing it.  You will not need to rinse it if you use wool wash.  You can then put the item between 2 towels, roll it up, and squeeze as much water out as you can.  I like to put it item between the towels on the floor and stand on it.  Nothing like gravity and my weight to finish squeezing out the excess water…

Now you will want to shape you item.  Use a plastic covered box the right size or just stuff the item full of plastic grocery bags.  Pull it into shape.  You do not want it to dry until it is in the correct shape.  Once you have it in the shape needed, let it dry for about 2 days out of direct sunlight.

DO NOT put it in the dryer to dry.  This will cause your item to dry out shape and felt it further than you need.

Here is a bag I recently made and felted.

This is before I felted the bag…

10933324_10205167419720183_1583718657_n

And after…

10933353_10205167419880187_248938908_n

You can see the difference in the size.  I used KnitPicks Wool of the Andes for this bag.  Wonderful wool for felting and lovely to work with as well.

Well I hope this has answered your frequently asked questions regarding felting.  Good luck with all your felted projects.  Happy loom knitting!

5 Comments

  • very helpful. I was just starting a felting project and this has really helped.

  • Awesome article, Renita! :) I absolutely love your felted bag, too! So much fuzzy fun!

  • Dear Bethany Dailey,

    Could you please do a video of the Candy Cane Stitch Pattern on the components that are in row 5:

    Row 5: p2, k2, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], *k3, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, p2.

    I have tried these again again … but fail even trying to follow the guides on the pattern page…. Yes, I am new to knitting …. thanks very much for doing a video …. If you Can !

  • I bought a all in one loom. but I cant find out how to make a triangular shawl. I found a shawl that uses along loom with 62 pegs but it is rounded not pointed like a triangle. It uses a knit stitch and increases by one peg every other row. I also bought the extended pegs but haven’t been able to figure how to convert that in to a shawl pattern.
    Any suggestions . I would appreciate
    thanks
    Al Alexander

  • I’m still very confused. This doesn’t seem to be answering my question about gauges. I have a hat pattern I want to do. Here is the link: http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/2442 and here is the pattern’s gauge:

    Gauge: 8 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern.
    Size: 9 inches x 9.5 inches when laid flat. Model’s head size is 23-1/4 inches.
    Set knitting loom to small gauge at 80 pegs.

    My husband’s head is 25″ so there is a difference already. I did a swatch and my gauge came to 8 stitches, 22 rows in a 2 inch area. I will be using the All in One Loom.

    How in the world can I take that information and translate it into how many pegs to use and if I should change anything else about the pattern?

    Thank you.

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Dec 15, 2014

Loom FAQs: What Is Gauge?

Loom-FAQs1

I see a lot of questions about gauge.  What is gauge?  Why is gauge important?   Mostly I see How many pegs do I cast on?   Followed with the size for a specific item.  I have been personally asked a number of times to calculate a peg count.  So maybe it’s time to discuss gauge, making swatches, and calculating peg counts.

 

What is gauge?

The term is used for 2 different things:  loom gauge and swatch gauge.  Let’s start with loom gauge.

 

What is loom gauge?

In needle knitting and crochet, the gauge of the needles and hooks is the diameter measured in millimeters.  Sometimes letter or numbers are then used to represent the gauge.  In loom knitting, looms are measured and sized differently.   When people talk about the single knit gauge of the loom it is either described as extra large, large, regular, small, fine, and extra fine.  Those sizes are determined from the center to center peg spacing.  Some will abbreviate it to c2c peg spacing.  Why is it center to center of the peg?  Gauge is actually determined how far the yarn travels for a stitch.  So we need an easy way to measure that.  The easiest way to determine that is by measuring from the center of the peg to the center of the next peg.

Peg size can also affect gauge.  The bigger the peg, the further the yarn must travel to make the stitch.  So that is something to keep in mind as well since some looms have the same center to center peg spacing but have different size pegs.

But for simplicity sake, we will talk about the peg spacing only.

Here is the center to center peg spacing in relationship to gauge size for knitting looms:

Extra Large:  13/16” and larger

Large:  5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4″

Regular:  7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16”

Small:  3/8”

Fine:  1/4”, 5/16”

Extra Fine:  3/16”

 

How do I measure my pegs to know the gauge?

You will take a ruler or tape measure that has the inch divided in 16ths and measure from the center of the peg to the center the peg next to it.

10846721_10204817453211239_553075619_n

Double knit gauge is determined not only by how far apart the pegs are but also by how far apart the rails are on the rake.  The farther apart the rails, the larger the gauge.

961479_10204817453411244_1736901706_n

 

What is swatch gauge?

When you are making something where size is important, you will need to make a swatch to determine your gauge.  This is also referred to as your tension which is how tight or how loose you work your stitches.

You will need to know your tension for almost everything you make.  More than just sweaters need gauge achieved.  Socks, hats, headbands, mittens, even blankets will need to be a certain size.  Therefore you need to know if your tension will match that of the pattern in order for the item to fit.  The stitch used and also the yarn used will affect your gauge.  Different fibers work up differently.  And so do different stitches.  So if you use a different yarn with a different fiber content than the one recommended for the pattern, it may not turn out the same.  Same if you substitute different stitches than the ones called for in the pattern.

 

How do I swatch?

Different people will swatch differently.  This is the way I make a swatch.

Patterns will call for gauge using either a 4” or 2” square.

For large gauge, I will measure how many pegs are in 5”.  For small gauge, I will measure how many pegs are in 3”.  Then I work my swatch in the required stitch over that many pegs.  Then I work the number of rows to get 4-5” on large gauge or 2-3” on small gauge.

Then I measure my work with a ruler.  You will count the number of stitches in the 2” or 4” across a row

10818920_10204835414620263_228282242_n

and how many rows are in 2” or 4” depending on your gauge loom.

10850399_10204835415180277_259526400_n

If your swatch matches the gauge on the pattern, then you are ready to get started.

If you have more stitches and rows than is listed for the gauge, your tension is too tight, and you will need to work with a looser tension.

If you have less stitches and rows than is listed, your tension is too loose, and you will need to work with a tighter tension.

Both of those can be achieved by how much you pull on the yarn while working your stitches.  So do not pull as much to make it looser or pull a little bit more to make it tighter.  When you pull on the yarn, it stretches.  And stitches worked while the yarn is stretched will be tighter once the tension is released and the yarn returns to it’s original shape.

 

How do I know how many pegs to cast on?

Now comes the “fun” part of knitting.  Math.  Unlike most people, I LOVE math.  Numbers never lie…  But I do realize that most people have a hard time with math and would rather avoid it.   So let’s discuss how to calculate peg count.

Here is the cheat sheet to what is written in the equations.

  • When you see a lower case x in the equation, it means to multiply.
  • When you see a forward slash /, it means to divide.
  • When you see part of it in parenthesis ( ), you will work the part in the parenthesis first then calculate the rest equation.
  • Just get a piece of paper and write your numbers down.  Then substitute the numbers for the letters in the equation.  Grab a calculator and solve!
  • I realize I have lost about 90% of you right here…

You are wanting to make a blanket of a certain size using e-wrap.  How do you know how many pegs to cast on?  Well first you will need to make a swatch and count how many stitches and rows you have in an inch.  Make your swatch following the directions above and measure.

Say you have 4 stitches in an inch, and you want your blanket to be 5 feet wide.  You will need to change your unit of measurement first to the smallest unit.  Therefore you will need to change the feet into inches.  So you will multiple 5 feet by 12 inches per foot or

5 x 12 = 60 inches

Now, for the stitch count, you will multiple 60 inches by 4 stitches per inch or

60 x 4 = 240 stitches

So you will cast on 240 pegs.

You will do the same for the number of rows when calculating how many rows to work.  Just replace how many rows in an inch for the number of stitches.  But you can always just measure your work if you are going by inches instead of counting rows.

Here is the equation to plug your numbers into once you have all of your measurements:

  • Number of inches desired to work:  A
  • Number of stitches or rows in an inch from your swatch:  B
  • Number of pegs to cast on or number of rows to work (the answer):  C

A x B = C

 

What if I want to use a different gauge loom than the one required in the pattern?

If you are wanting to use a loom with a different gauge than the one used in the pattern but want the same size, first thing you need to realize is that a different gauge will change the size even when the measurement of the pegs is the same.  But here is how you will calculate the peg number.  Just remember it may not turn out the same size.

I warn you.  There is a lot more math involved here…

Say you want to make a hat on the All-n-One loom that is written for the 41 peg round Knifty Knitter loom because you only want to use 1 strand of worsted weight yarn and get smaller stitches instead of using 2 strands of worsted or 1 strand of bulky or super bulky.

From now on when I refer to peg spacing, I am referring to the center to center peg spacing.

First you will need to know the gauge of the looms.  In this case, the 41 peg round Knifty Knitter loom has a peg spacing of 13/16”, and the All-n-One loom has a peg spacing of 3/8”.  Then you will need to calculate the circumference of the center of the pegs on the 41 peg loom.  To do that you will multiple the number of pegs by the peg spacing.  For this loom, you will multiple 41 pegs by 13, then divide by 16.

41 x 13 / 16 = 33.3”

So you will want a peg circumference of 33.3” on the All-n-One loom, and you know that the peg spacing on this loom is 3/8”.  So you will multiply 33.3 by 8, then divide by 3.

33.3 x 8 / 3 = 88.8 pegs

Now you can either use 88 pegs or 89 pegs.  On the AIO loom, it can be tricky to use an odd number so you may want to use either 88 or 90 pegs.

Here are the equations to plug in your numbers.

  • Number of pegs on original loom:  A
  • Top number of fraction of peg spacing on original loom:  B
  • Bottom number of fraction of peg spacing on original loom:  C
  • Circumference of original loom:  D
  • Top number of fraction of peg spacing on new loom:  E
  • Bottom number of fraction of peg spacing on new loom:  F
  • Number of pegs on new loom:  P

 

Equation for calculating the circumference on the original loom:

A x B / C = D

Now calculating the new loom peg count:

D x F / E = P

 

Now there is a way to calculate that all together.  Here is the equation that you will plug your numbers in to get your answer.

(A x B x F) / (C x E) = P

 

Whew!  If you made it this far, you deserve a gold star!  That was deep.  Should have warned you to wear hip boots…  Now go calculate your peg count for some stylish boot cuffs for those hip boots you need to wear to wade through all that math!

I hope this helps answer some of those questions that are frequently asked in regards to gauge.

Happy knitting!

 

3 Comments

  • PHEW !!!! thanks for this…..math was never my strong subject ….English was so I will re- read this until my brain says okay! Thank you for posting all this helpful info…..

  • Not a lover of math, but you helped to make it a lot easier. Thanks for the article! Good work!

  • Terrific post, Renita! :)

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Nov 17, 2014

Loom FAQS: Which Knit Stitch??

Loom-FAQs1

Two questions I see often and seem to cause drama are What knit stitch do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify? and What is the difference between the different knit stitches?  But my favorite is Why are there so many knit stitches in loom knitting?  While it does seem like there are a lot of knit stitches, there are still only two.  Knit and e-wrap knit.  The confusion occurs because there are 3 ways to make a knit stitch.  And all 3 have different tensions.  So let’s discuss each one and then compare all 4 so we can put that drama to rest.

E-wrap Knit Stitch

I will start with the e-wrap knit since it is usually the first stitch a person learns when he or she picks up a loom for the first time.  E-wrap knit is the loosest knit stitch.  It is taller and uses more yarn than a true knit or purl stitch.  It is a twisted stitch so the stitch looks like a y instead of the classic v of the knit stitch.  When worked in a flat panel, the e-wrap knit gives a great texture to the project since the stitches slant in the opposite way on each row.

untitled

When worked in the round, the stitches will slant in the direction that you work.

ewrap round

You make an e-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, around to the front of the peg,

untitled (2)

and then on around to the back the peg like a cursive e.

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After the peg is wrapped, the working yarn is behind the peg again.

Then you knit over by bringing the bottom loop up and over the new loop you just made.

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Knit Stitch

The knit stitch can be produced 3 different ways, and the size of the stitch varies with one.

  • True Knit Stitch

Let’s look at the true knit stitch first.  It is also called the traditional knit stitch.  Some people call it a reverse purl even though it’s actually more accurate to call a purl a reverse knit.  It is the same height and width of a purl stitch and is best to use when working alongside purls in the rib, garter, seed, and moss stitches.

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You make a true knit stitch by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop.

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You bring your pick up through the existing loop and catch the working yarn.

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Then pull it down through the loop to create a new loop.

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You then take the old loop off the peg.

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Then place the new loop back on the peg.

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Snug up the yarn by gently tugging the working yarn.

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Why does this look just like a purl stitch?  This stitch is not to be confused with the purl.  While the motions appear to be the same, the purl is worked in reverse.  The working yarn is at the bottom of the existing loop, and the new loop is pulled up from the bottom before taking the old loop off the peg and replacing the new loop on.

 

  • U-wrap Knit Stitch

Next is the u-wrap knit.  It is shorter and tighter than the true knit stitch.

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You make a u-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop in front of the peg and pulling it straight back behind the peg without completely wrapping it.

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Then pull the bottom loop up

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and over.

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  • Flat Knit Stitch

The last way to create a knit stitch is the tightest and smallest of the knit stitches.  It is the flat knit.  It can get very tight after just a couple of rows.  Flat knit stitch works best with fibers that stretch like wool.  It is extremely hard to use the flat knit on yarn that have no stretch like cotton.

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You work the flat knit by bringing the working yarn across the front of the peg above the existing loop without any wrap of the peg.

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Then bring the existing loop up

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and over.

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Comparison

I worked 4 swatches using each of the techniques mentioned.  I made all 4 with 16 pegs on the Sock Loom 2 and worked 25 rows using KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn.  I worked all 4 with the chain cast on and used the basic bind off.  I also slipped the first stitch on each row.

From left to right:  e-wrap knit, true knit, u-wrap knit, and flat knit.

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You can see the difference in size with the e-wrap being the largest and loosest and the flat knit being the smallest and tightest.  You can also see how the chain cast on (at the top) was not tight enough as the stitches got tighter and smaller.  You will need to take your cast on into consideration with whichever knit stitch technique you use.  I controlled my tension on all the swatches by not pulling on the yarn as I worked the stitches.  Each of them could have been made tighter by simply pulling and stretching the yarn.

Here is the gauge I achieved with each swatch.  What is gauge?  Gauge is simply the number of stitches in an inch by the number of rows in an inch.  The more stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is smaller.  The fewer stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is larger.  Some patterns will list gauge in a 2” or 4” square.  I will discuss gauge more in next month’s article.  For this demonstration, I will list gauge per inch.

  • E-wrap knit stitch: 3.5 stitches by 5 rows per inch

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  • True knit stitch:  3.75 stitches by 5.5 rows per inch

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  • U-wrap knit stitch:  4 stitches by 6 rows per inch

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  • Flat knit stitch:  5.5 stitches by 7.5 rows per inch

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So as you can see, it makes a big difference in size depending on how the knit stitch is made.  Why can I not use e-wrap on every pattern?  Everyone’s tension is different.  If you were to make the same exact swatch I have, you most likely will have a different gauge.  Designers write their pattern for a certain look or size.  While you can interchange the knit stitch and the e-wrap knit in some patterns, most times it will change the pattern too much in size.  If using the knit stitch, you can adjust your tension by using a different knit stitch technique.  You can also adjust your tension on the flat and u-wrap knit stitches by loosening them as you work the stitches.  I loosen my u-wrap knit by simply pushing the stitch back with my pick after pulling the loop over.  But these swatches were made without loosening the stitches.  They were made as described above.

I hope this helps clarify the knit stitch dilemma and puts the drama to rest.

 

7 Comments

  • I can not believe I’m reading this today of all days!!! Made myself a pair of e-wrap mittens over the weekend and keep catching the stitches. I was just thinking this am, I wonder how many more rows and pegs I’d have to use if I use a knit stitch instead. Then I think, math, yuk!!! This will be so helpful. Renita to the rescue, again! Thanks for this article.

  • I am looking at your shawl pattern and it says to use a rib stitch. What is that?

  • Need to share with my friend who just began knitting!

  • Needed this — love the comparisons.

  • When knitting in the round with the E-wrap stitch, you can make a reverse E-wrap. If knitting from right to left (counter-clockwise/anti-clockwise) make a loop by twisting the yarn clock wise, and place it on the peg. The end of the yarn will then go behind the peg underneath the yarn coming from the left. This can be used to make rows that reverse as if knitting a flat piece back and forth.

  • ???? Arrgg. In the above post on reverse E-wrap, that should have read, “If knitting from LEFT TO RIGHT”.

    Sorry I have dyslexia, so that must have been my other left, or right, or whatever. ????

  • Fairly new knitter here. So, if a pattern just says knit stitch, how do you decide which stitch to use. I now understand why I could not make a scarf from a pattern in one of the KB books as the stitches were so tight. I really wanted to make the scarf for a gift but gave up.

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Oct 27, 2014

Loom FAQs – How Do I Read a Pattern?

Loom-FAQs1

Another question that is often asked is “how do I read a pattern?”  Most times, it’s not even a question.  People will flat out say they don’t know how to read a pattern.  Or that patterns are too hard to read.  Some will even say they don’t care to learn when there are videos to watch.  Well I will say this:  If you don’t learn at least the basics of reading patterns, then you are limiting yourself to what you can make since not all patterns have videos.  So today I would like to address some of those Frequently Asked Questions in regards to reading a pattern.

Where do I start when I am reading a pattern?

I always recommend to start by reading the pattern fully first.  See what you need and when you need it.  Most times if it’s a pattern that has new skills, it can be overwhelming to read through it first.  That is ok.  Do not panic.  It happens to the best of us.  Then you take a deep breath and proceed gathering your supplies.  Once that is done, then you start.  But before we get into starting, let’s discuss how a pattern is usually written.

Patterns can usually be broken down into 3 parts.  I will be using parts of my Paving Rainbows hat pattern for an example.  You can find the complete pattern here:  http://blog.knittingboard.com/index.php/archives/1363

 

Part 1:

The first part is the list of items you need to complete the project.  This is where you will find which loom is required, yarn recommended, and other notions needed.  Patterns will list the yarn needed in number of skeins, yards, or weight.  If you are using a different yarn than the one specified and it’s listed by skeins, balls, or yardage, then you will just need to compare the yardage of the yarn you are wanting to use with the one that was used in the pattern to make sure you have enough since not all skeins or balls have the same amount of yarn in them.

The Paving Rainbow Stones Hat pattern

     Loom: All-n-One loom set for 72 pegs. Sample made on the All-n-One.

     Yarn: 1 skein Bernat Mosaic in Calypso – Color A (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice). 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black – Color B (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice)

     Notions: Loom tool, Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Part 2:

The second part is the abbreviations, gauge, and pattern notes.  In stand-alone patterns available on blogs or other sites, this will follow the list of items.  If it is a pattern in a book, the abbreviations will most likely be found at the front or back of the book.  But the gauge and pattern notes, if any, will still be in this location.

What is gauge?

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows are in a certain number of inches so you know if your tension is correct when knitting an item that needs to be a certain size.  So if it reads,

In stockinette, 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches

you will take a ruler and measure your swatch or work.  If you count 20 stitches in 4 inches on a row in all knit stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches, then you have achieved gauge.

Some patterns will not have it listed if gauge is not important.  Or sometimes the designer forgot to list it.  Oops…

What are pattern notes?

Pattern notes are the special instructions or little helpful tidbits provided by the designer to help clarify how the pattern is to be worked.

      Pattern Notes

· Use only one strand of yarn.

· Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using. Do not cut.

      Abbreviations

· K – flat or u-wrap knit

· P – purl

· S – slip (skip)

· Rnd(s) – Round(s)

Part 3:

The third part is the actual instructions.  Most times it will be written out by rows or rounds.  Some patterns may be written in steps, like I did with my corkscrew tutorial.

     INSTRUCTIONS

E-wrap cast on all pegs.

Rnds 1 – 18 – With color A, K all

Place cast on loops back on pegs, knit over

Rnd 19 – K all

Drop Color A to inside of loom. Add Color B.

Rnd 20 – With color B, K all

Rnds 21-23 – P all

Drop Color B to inside of loom. Pick up Color A.

Rnds 24-29 – With color A, K3, *S2, K6*, repeat from * to * until last 5 pegs, S2, K3

So let’s start at the beginning.  First you will cast on.

What cast on and bind off methods do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify?

In this pattern, I specify an e-wrap cast on.  But when a particular cast on or bind off isn’t specified, then you just use the one that you like best.

Then you start with the first row or round.  In this pattern, rounds 1 – 18 are all the same, so instead of writing out each round, I combined them all into one line.  So for those 18 rounds, you will knit all the pegs.

Now let’s skip to after the brim is made.  I made a note to drop the first color and add the second.  It looks a little out of place here, but there are times where the instructions are needed in the pattern as you go along which is why the instructions for the color change is between the rounds.  Sometimes the designer will write those at the end of the row or round so there is not a break like you see here.

What does it mean when it says to “repeat from *”?

Let’s now look at rounds 24 – 29.  In this pattern, I put an * at the beginning and end of the part that is to be repeated.  Sometimes it will just be at the beginning of the repeat and then say “repeat from * to the end of the row”.  But what does that line mean?  We have seen rounds that are all knits or all purls.  But now we have a mixture of stitches with repeats.

The round reads “With Color A, K3, *S2, K6* repeat from * to * until the last 5 pegs, S2, K3”.  If that were written out for all the pegs, it would read like this:

With color A, knit 3 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, etc., until only 5 pegs remain in the round.  Then slip 2 pegs and knit 3 pegs.  Then you start the next round.  Or if it was written peg by peg, it would be: knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit…

So you can see why the rows or rounds are condensed down into abbreviations and repeats.  Otherwise, a simple pattern would be the size of a small book.

The more complicated repeats will often involve parenthesis as well as asterisks.

So to start off when learning to read a pattern, you may want to write each row or round out so you can better understand it.

And to keep from being overwhelmed by the entire pattern, I would recommend you concentrate on one row at a time.  Just go stitch by stitch and then row by row.  If something doesn’t seem to make sense then look at the previous row and the following row.  Sometimes it will make more sense when you see what is just below or just above the row you are working.

What do the abbreviations mean?

Reading patterns is like reading code.  The reason for abbreviations is for saving space, especially in books and magazines.  Here are some of the more common abbreviations.

 

BO – bind off

CA – color A

CB – color B

CC – contrasting color

CO – cast on

Dec – decrease

EW – e-wrap

Inc – increase

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

KO – Knit over

M1 – make 1 increase

MC – main color

P – purl

P2tog – purl 2 together

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

Rep – repeat

Rnd (s) – rounds(s)

S or sl – slip

SSK – slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together

W&T – wrap and turn

YO – yarn over

What knit stitch do I use if it doesn’t say?

Most times if the pattern just says knit then it is a true or traditional knit stitch.  Some people like to call it a reverse purl.  You can use the u-wrap, flat knit, or even e-wrap, if you are needing to achieve a certain gauge due to your tension.  If the pattern says “no e-wrap”, then it is not recommended to use it since it really is a different stitch entirely.  It is taller and looser and will alter the finished size.

Why are patterns not all written the same?

This is a great question.  I really don’t have a good answer to that one except to say that, while most designers try to keep uniformity to patterns so that they are easy to read, some people are beginners, want to share their designs, and just don’t know how patterns are most commonly written.  And sometimes designers will write a pattern how they like to read them.

Why can I not just use videos?

There usually are not videos for all patterns.  And people cannot randomly make videos without the designer’s permission since it violates copyright.  But when working a pattern and you come across a technique you are unfamiliar with and the written instructions for that technique are confusing, videos are very helpful, and I would recommend using them.

How do I write a pattern?

If you are writing a pattern for the first time and are unsure of what to do, look at other patterns on blogs or on Ravelry.  Then try to follow suit in whatever way makes sense to you.  Most times, our first efforts seem to fall short of our expectations.  Just take a deep breath and try your best.  We all start somewhere and learn.

I really hope this helps get you started on reading patterns.  The worst thing that could happen is that you will need to rip the project out and start over.  But it is only yarn after all.  It is designed to be taken apart and reknit.

 

6 Comments

  • Excellent post, Renita! :) I would only add to your first bit about reading the pattern through entirely first and then possibly feeling overwhelmed or confused…a lot of times the steps that are confusing at the front end make way more sense when you are actually at that section and ready to knit it. I say this as an encouragement not to give up when that original confusion hits upon the first read-through. Just dive in and have fun! :D

    Once again…fantastic advice!

  • Thank you, Bethany! That means a lot to me. While I did say that later, I realize I should have addressed it at the beginning for those who don’t read the entire article.

    Just taking it stitch by stitch and row by row often answers those confusing questions we might have after the first read through.

  • Thank you very much. This was very informative and helped to clear up a few thing for me

  • Hi Renita,
    Where was a person like you when I first started learning knitting and reading patterns soo many years ago! Very good help for beginners! Thank you for a really great article that will be a help to many! Sue

  • I am holding on to this for dear life, I am knew to knitting and loom knitting and have never tried a pattern. You give me hope! Thank you!!

  • Thank you for posting this and explaining how a pattern is read and what a K 3 means to knit 3 pegs and so on I think a lot of times I read into things to much and the answer is staring me right in my face .I over whelm myself and once I try it it’s like thee light bulb comes on ,I will just keep pratcing and will catch on the problem is I try to make things perfect and get overwhelmed when its not as hard as it really is thank you again

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Sep 16, 2014

Loom FAQs – What is Blocking?

Hello!  I am Renita Harvey, and I am so excited to be part of the wonderful KB team.  I have been loom knitting since I was a child.  My first looms were a spool loom and a small 12 peg round loom.  About the age of 12, my parents gave me a Spin Knit loom.  This was my first large loom that I made hats and scarves on.  This was quite a few years before Knifty Knitter looms came along.  Only thing I had to teach myself was the booklet that came with the loom.  It only contained very basic information.  E-wrap knit only.  Not even a purl stitch!  Now we have wonderful loom knit books written by very talented people and have a wealth of information at our fingertips on the internet.  But almost every day, I see questions about “how do I do this or that” in loom knitting.  Well, I would like to answer some of those Frequently Asked Questions or Loom FAQs in this column. Look for my column on the third Monday of every month.

Loom FAQs

Today I would like to address a very common question.

What is blocking?

Blocking is a finishing technique used in knitting and crochet.  It is a way to flatten a piece, helps with straightening and sizing pieces that are to be seamed together, helps set the stitches, and opens up lace stitches.

But after that is said, there are always even more questions to be answered.

When and why do you block something?

If you are making a sweater or another project that will be pieced or seamed together, you will need to block each piece to size and shape before assembly.  Please note that while you will be able to make some smaller pieces a little larger and make pieces match in size, if your gauge or tension is not correct, you will not be able to completely resize it with blocking.

If you are knitting a lace pattern, you will want to block the project to open up those beautiful lace stitches.  It does make a world of difference with lace.

What fibers can you block?

You can block every kind of fiber.  The type of fiber depends on the type of blocking.

What items do I need to block?

  • A place to block the items
  • Rust-proof pins
  • Blocking wires (optional)
  • Steam machine or steam iron for steam blocking
  • Spray bottle for spray blocking
  • Water – MOST IMPORTANT!

 

Do I need a blocking board?  Are they important?

First you will need an area large enough for your item.  One such item is a blocking board.  Blocking boards are large boards covered in a tightly woven thick fabric printed with a grid over a piece of foam, cork, or acoustic board for the pins to stick in.  While I personally do have one, they are not necessary to block an item.  Sometimes they are just not large enough for the project.  Some people may not have the space to store one.  Kits may be bought to build your blocking board.  But again it’s not as essential as having a space to do it.

You can use a bed, the floor, or even interconnecting foam blocks like floor mats or preschool letter blocks.  Any of these surfaces can be covered with a waterproof liner like a trash bag and then covered with towels or blankets so you can pin the item into place.

Why do I need rust-proof pins?

Which leads me to a very important tool for blocking.  Rust-proof pins.  Make sure they are rust-proof since all types of blocking involve water.  Unless they are rust-proof, the pins will rust.  And rust stains cannot be removed from the yarn.  Let me say “rust-proof” one more time for good measure…

Other questions I have seen involve tools that can be used for blocking.

What are blocking wires and why would I use blocking wires?

Blocking wires are wires that are woven into the edges of the work to help keep the shape of the edge.  If you do not use wires, you sometimes get a scalloped edge when the work dries and draws up in between the pins if they are not close enough together.  There are 2 kinds of blocking wires.  Rigid wires for the straight edges, and flexible wires for the curved edges.  You do not need to use as many pins when using wires, but blocking wire are not required to block an item.

Do I need a steam machine or can I just use an iron?

While steam machines are nice to have and make it easier to steam block items, they are not necessary.  A steam iron will work.  You just need to remember not to get too close to the work since you have a large heat source on the iron while you do not have that with a steamer.  But you can not just iron an item in order to block it.  You can cause a lot of damage to the work if the iron is placed directly on it.

How do you block something?

This just happens to be the most important question of all.  How?  Well there are 3 ways to block a project.

  1. Wet blocking
  2. Spray blocking
  3. Steam blocking

Let take each one separately.

Wet Blocking

You can wet block any natural fibers.  You cannot wet block acrylics.  Acrylics need to be steam blocked.  We will discuss why in Steam Blocking.

First you need to soak the item for at least 15 minutes so that all the fibers are fully saturated.  You then will squeeze out the excess water.  Do not wring or twist!  This will stretch the stitches out of shape completely.  After squeezing out as much water as I can, I like to put a couple of towels on the floor, lay the item on top, then add another towel on top to cover the item.  Then I simply stand on it in my bare feet.  Sounds crazy, I know.  But standing on all parts of the item will finish squeezing out the excess water without twisting and cause it to dry faster.

Then you pin your item on the prepared blocking area to the shape and size needed.  You will place your pins about 2″ or less apart if you are not using blocking wires.  You can use a lot less pins with the wires.  Allow the item to completely dry before removing it.

Spray Blocking

You can spray block all natural fibers, but not acrylics.  Spray blocking is like wet blocking except you do not soak the item first.  You first pin your item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet blocking.  Then you use a spray bottle of water and spray the item until it is completely wet.  Allow the item to dry before removing it.

Steam Blocking

All types of fiber can be steam blocked.  Why can acrylics only be steam blocked?  Acrylic yarn is basically plastic and only heat from steam can set the stitches.   Water alone cannot do this with acrylic while it will work with natural fibers.  But you cannot iron it either.  Direct heat from an iron will either completely melt the yarn or “kill” the fabric.  “Killing” acrylic is not quite as violent as it sounds.  It just means that the acrylic has melted to the point that it has lost its stretch and body but has not been completely ruined.  There are times killing acrylic is useful, but not when you are wanting to block the item.

First you will pin the item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet or spray blocking.  Then you will steam the item in small areas at a time until the entire piece is steamed and damp.  If using an iron, remember to not get the iron surface too close to the item.  And also be careful not to touch the pins or wires, if using wires, as the steam will cause them to get hot as well and will burn you.

Allow the item to dry completely before unpinning it.

Sounds like a lot of work.  And most times, it is.  But the finished result is always amazing!

 

 

 

9 Comments

  • Thank you for the FAQ.
    This is off topic but can someone do a tutorial on the stockinette curl? I can’t do the basic tweed HAT that’s included in the loom instructions. Although I do the ribbing eventually the stockinette starts to curl and it causes the ribbing to also pull up. The hat is made IN THE ROUND. I see many hats made of stockinette so there must be a way to do this and remain in the stockinette pattern. Many sites say just to pick another stitch. Thank you.

  • Very informative. Well done Renita!

  • Thanks Renita. I never understood why wet blocking didn’t work with my acrylic pieces. This article means a recent UFO may finally see completion!

  • Excellent first article, Renita! :) You’ve done a very thorough job of explaining a really important step in knitting…can’t wait to see what you will have next!

  • Thanks Renita I noticed some people never heard or know about blocking. Keep up the good work. God bless you always!

  • Can a portable steamer be used for blocking acrylic then? I’ve a shawl I’m almost finished with, but the bulky yarn combined w/ the figure eight stitch (single knitting) isn’t showing well. I was thinking blocking might help to “open it up”?

  • Allison, you can use a portable steamer. Just be very careful not to get too close or you will kill the acrylic with the steam. But bulky yarn with that stitch may not open up anyway.

  • Hi,

    I have a question please.. if I have a mixed yearn, shall I decide which blocking method to use based on the highest percentage of the material in the yearn?

    Thanks
    Brunella

  • Brunella, if you have mixed yarn, the safest method to block it is by doing a wet block.

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Aug 16, 2014

Slouchy Hat on the Loom Knitting with the All-n-One Loom booklet

LoomKnittingwithallione

We received a request for a little bit of extra assistance in creating the slouchy hat pictured in the front cover of the All-n-One loom.

The instructions for the increase round read: Rnd 9: *k3, m1l; rep from * to the end of rnd (80 sts).

I will offer you two methods to achieve this:

Method 1:

Remove all 60 stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or on a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, keep repeating this instructions until you have place all stitches back on the knitting loom.

*Knit 3 pegs, now create the M1L and place it on the empty peg; repeat from the *.

Method 2: 

*Knit 3 pegs, M1L and place it on peg 3 (over the loop already there, peg 3 will have 2 loops on it). Continue around the knitting loom repeating this sequence.

On the following round: knit 2 pegs, lift the loop that is at the top of peg 3 and hold it or place it on peg 4, knit the loop on peg 3, place the loop that you were holding back on top of peg 3 (or move it from peg 4 back to peg 3), knit this loop (be sure to only knit the top loop and leave the one at the bottom untouched). Continue around the loom  repeating this sequence.

Now, remove all the stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place your stitches back on the knitting loom.

I hope the above helps to facilitate the increases. It is the most laborious round of the hat, take it slow and one step at a time.

Good luck!

5 Comments

  • what happened to the video of the triangle Isela phelps taught for a blanket.

  • Islela, Thank you! The info on the slouchy hat was great! Easy ,peasy! Kari

  • I have learned so much from you about loom knitting, I am blind and you are a great teacher.I have looked all over for the triangle video or square made from the inside out and can’t find it. Can you help me thank you Judy

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Dec 17, 2013

Storybrook Cloche Stitch breakdown

We have had a few inquiries about the Storybrook Cloche. I decided to provide you with a breakdown of the rows. I hope it helps the process a little bit.

I am tackling the highlighted rows

 

storybrook cloche instructions2

Row 2

  • Move loops from pegs as follows:

– from 5 to 6
– from 4 to 5
– from 3 to 4
– from 2 to 3
– from 1 to 2

  • Ewrap peg 1
  • Knit pegs 1, 2, 3
  • Skip peg 4 with yarn behind peg
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom loop off from peg 5
  • Move loops as follows:

-From peg 7 to 6
-From peg 8 to 7
-From peg 9 to 8

  • Peg 9 is empty. YO on peg 9 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 10

Row 4

  • Knit peg 1
  • Ewrap peg 1
  • Knit pegs 2 and 3
  • Skip peg 4 with yarn behind peg.
  • Move loop from peg 5 to 6.
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from 4 to 5
  • Move loop from 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom most loop off peg 5
  • Move loop from peg 3 to 4
  • Move loop from peg 2 to 3
  • YO on peg 2 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 7 and then move it to peg 6.
  • YO on peg 7 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 8 and 9
  • Purl peg 10

Row 6

  • Knit peg 1, 2, 3
  • Move loop from peg 5 to 6
  • Move loop from peg 4 to 5
  • YO on peg 4 (ewrap)
  • Skip peg 5 with yarn behind peg
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from peg 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom most loop off peg 5
  • YO  on peg 6 (ewrap)
  • Knit pegs 7, 8, 9, purl peg 10

 

2 Comments

  • Thank you for posting this. This pattern has raised a lot of questions. Would you be so kind to post a break down for the Brilynn Cowl too? Would love to make it! Thank you.

  • Yay! I’m trying to make the Peaks Fingerless Mitts from the Sock Loom Projects book and I couldn’t find other instructions for the Peaks pattern. Sounds like this pattern is similar, at least to help me with some of the stitches.

    :-)

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Dec 13, 2013

Loom Knitting Videos for the Faux Woven Cowl

Isela models Faux Cowl

Video one shows Rows 1-3.

Video 2 shows Row 4.

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Nov 17, 2013

Tip on Tightening up an E-wrap Cast On

Most of us learn to loom knit with the e-wrap cast on method. We quickly realize that it produces a loopy cast on. Here is a tip that I have used for several years in a lot of my knits. Enjoy!

1 Comment

  • I love this! What a wonderful way to clean up such a widely used cast on! :)

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Nov 16, 2013

Pony Tail Hole Video

Pony Tail Hole video

I have received a few emails asking me to create a video on creating the pony tail hole for the Pony Tail Hat. Here is a short video demonstrating how I create this opening.

Enjoy!

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Oct 24, 2013

Mitered Square How-to

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Jul 8, 2013

Loom a Hat on the AIO (Updated)

AllnOneHat smallerAll-n-One Knitting Loom Hat Numbers

The table provided has 3 different numbers, one for DK weight yarn and the other two with worsted weight yarn. I have gotten two different gauges with the worsted weight yarn. I have gotten 4.5 and 4 stitches to the inch. I provided a table with both gauges. All the hat numbers have a 15% negative ease already built in. For example, the adult male hat, with 84 pegs at a gauge of 4.5 stitches will yield a tube that is about 18.6 inches. We want a hat to fit snugly, approximately about 10-15%, with a 15% negative ease, this hat will fit a circumference up to 21.4 inches. All the peg numbers provided have also been rounded to a multiple of 4, if you do not need a multiple of 4, deduct or add 2 pegs.

Hat shown in the picture on the right is a DK weight hat using 84 pegs.

This table was updated on 7/8/13 to include DK weight numbers and Fingering (Sock weight yarn) numbers. I test knitted on the loom using Fingering Weight yarn and was able to get a nice fabric at a gauge of 7 sts to the inch.

NOTE: the recommended peg numbers are suggested when using the KNIT STITCH, not the ewrap. If you want to do the ewrap stitch, knit a swatch and find out your gauge and then calculate how many pegs to use.
Tip: if you using the ewrap, typically you will go down a size from what the chart indicates. Example: women’s in a knit stitch/flat stitch with worsted weight yarn, it recommends 76. If I am using the ewrap, I would do 68 or even 64 (if the head is in the smaller size)

Suggested Numbers for AIO Hats

19 Comments

  • Awesome!

  • I have a problem with this chart are you making a panel or knitting in the round ?? if so in the round you would make a baby premie hat to fit an adult i uses the all-in-one loom with 34 pegs and made a nice size premie hat. has anyone made a premie hat using 72 pegs and had it fit??????? I also make baby hats using the blue plastic ring of 24 pegs.

    Help!!!!!! has anyone made a baby sweater on the all-in-one loom. and can anyone tell me the convergen using the plastic loom patterns on the all-in-one loom?

  • Jewel,
    The peg number provided go with the gauge that I received when I was test knitting. The 72 pegs is if you are using really, really thin yarn, fingering weight–such as lace yarn or sock yarn. The table provides the gauge that we are “assuming” for each of the sizes. Hope this helps.

  • not really as i used yarn fingering weight yarn and if i wrapped 72 pegs the hat would fit me (adult) how do you find the gauge and so you make a single row hat or do you go in a circle???

  • it sounds like you are making a panel and not a circle as i did with both the all-in-one loom and the little blue round plastic loom. I am trying to learn to make baby out fits and such with the loom as i am not very good with knitting needles. hope you can help me with this.

  • With these, I was making a circle. I did a test swatch with fingering weight yarn and my swatch gave the the gauge of 7 sts per inch. Of course, my little hat will be a tube that is about 10 inches in circumference, so it will fit a head that would be anywhere from 10-13 inches in circumference.

    To find the gauge: knit a panel that is at least 4 inches wide by 4 inches tall. Then flatten it out on a flat surface, place a ruler on top of it, then count the number of stitches you get in a inch, then count how many rows you get in an inch.

  • thanks that helps but you have 128 pegs for adult male but the all-in-one loom has only 107 pegs how would you make a hat like that with less pegs???? or do you use only worsted weight for adult and children’s hats ???

  • Thanks for this. Do you maybe have this for the sock loom( KB SOCK LOOM Adjustable)?

  • Is it not recommended that you use a bulky yarn? Or did you just not figure out the peg counts for it? I’m wanting to use a bulkier yarn on the AIO and I’m not having any luck figuring out how many pegs for a newborn hat

  • I am so-o pleased to have found your chart to give me something to work from. I am still waiting for Amazon to deliver my AIO loom so have been searching the web to find as many patterns as possible but needed the confidence that experience would give me. Your patterns, chart and `goodknitkisses` have given me a good grounding, now with your chart I feel I will have that confidence to start looming.
    Thank you.

  • Is this chart using a flat knit stitch? I would imagine if using an ewrap or twisted stockinette not as many pegs would be needed?

  • Yes, you are correct. It is using a knit stitch. You would need less pegs if you are using the ewrap stitch.

  • Can you make the last minute slouchy hat if you make the hat smaller since it is to big for me.
    thank you Judy

  • I need to know how to wrap a rec one? want to make a shawl or afghan I cant find instructions… thank you for any help you can give me

  • What is a “rec one”

  • Yes, simply use a stitch peg multiple that will accommodate the stitch pattern.

  • True Knit stitch. Yes, if you use the ewrap stitch, you will need less pegs to create the same width. If you use the same amount of pegs and the ewrap it will be wider.

  • It is not recommended for bulky yarn. The pegs are too closed together.

  • Thank you so much for this post, I bought the AIO because it was reccommended to use with your babies and toddlers book, and I’m making a hat on it because my other baby sized looms won’t do what I want to do. I look forward to making many of your patterns on it!

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Jul 3, 2013

Miter Squares Videos

Hi guys,

Here is the videos demonstrating how to complete the miter square. Again, there are two ways on how to do them, in this video I am showing how to complete a miter square from the outside in.

Enjoy!

 

2 Comments

  • Thanks for posting this. I needed to do this to finish a project and I won’t have to devise it for myself. I love your practical suggestions!

  • how do you make a square from the inside out.
    thank you Judy

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Jul 3, 2013

How Many Pegs for a Sock?

One of the most regular questions we receive is how many pegs do I cast on for my foot? Here is a handy little table that has some numbers that may help you.

You must first find the following:

1. The circumference around the ball of the foot.

2. Find your gauge by working a swatch in the round with the yarn you will be using, the loom you will be using and the stitch you will be using.

Once you have the above, find the closest match to the table below.

KB Sock Loom 2 Peg Numbers

 

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Jul 2, 2013

Miter Squares

I have always found them fascinating, especially when they are put together in a blanket configuration. I am currently working on a miter blanket and I wanted to show you all how to create this awesome squares. Miter Square

What you will need:

Loom: Sock Loom 2. You can also use the AIO loom.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn, approx 20-30 yards.

Notions: Knitting tool, 2 stitch markers of different color

INSTRUCTIONS

Get two stitch markers that are different color. Name one marker A and the other B.

Set your knitting loom to its largest setting. You want your slider all the way down to the edge. Count 12 pegs from the edge of the rail, place stitch Marker A on the peg. Then count 5 pegs from the slider and 7 pegs from the other rail; place stitch Marker B on the last peg on this rail.

Using the Yarn Over cast on, cast on 24 pegs. Start casting on at the peg with Marker B.  (You can use any other cast on that provides a firm foundation. I do not recommend the ewrap cast on).

Working yarn will be located by Marker A.

Row 1: k10, k2tog, k2tog, k10

Row 2 and all even rows (to row 22): p

Row 3: k9, k2tog, k2tog, k9

Row 5: k8, k2tog, k2tog, k8

Row 7: k7, k2tog, k2tog, k7

Row 9: k6, k2tog, k2tog, k6

Row 11: k5, k2tog, k2tog, k5

Row 13: k4, k2tog, k2tog, k4

Row 15: k3, k2tog, k2tog, k3

Row 17: k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2

Row 19: k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1

Row 21: k2tog, k2tog

Row 23: k2tog

BO: Cut working yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Ewrap peg with yarn tail, lift the bottom loop off. Then pull the tail through to create the BO.

Video coming soon!

2 Comments

  • This is really nice! I am a hand knitter and I have a bad thumb now and I always wanted to knit these but have not been able to do it. I’m going to try this. I’m wondering if you can “join as you go”?

  • Could instructions for the Yarn-Over Cast-On shown by Isela Phelps in her video of the Magic Mitered Squares be added to the How-To Basics instructions? I really like this cast-on, and would like to submit some patterns here using it, but I don’t want to explain it in every pattern.

    lmk

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Jun 19, 2013

How Much Yarn Needed?

Ever wondered how much yarn you need for a project? Yes, I have wondered too and sometimes I sit down and have to figure out how much I need and then I go and buy what I need plus a little more.

I came across this table from Lion Brand and I am tickled pink! I hope you find it useful as much as I did. Bookmark it for future projects :). It has approximations for all sorts of projects, from scarves for babies  to afghans.

Enjoy!

 

4 Comments

  • Thanks for this link. It is a real time saver.

    If you follow the link, you can download a PDF, which will open in iBooks on iPhones and iPads. It is great to have this on my iPad to refer to when I need it. Pieces of paper are so easy to lose.

    lmk

  • Where is the web site?

  • Hi I only just had my sock loom finding it different to my matha Stewart loom .but thought I would give useful tip cut. Up jumbo drinking straws as thick as you like they slip over. The pegs so serve as stitch markers so cheap and colors as well
    Hope this helps jann

  • The (red) word “table” in the second paragraph above is a hyperlink to this website.

    http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/96.html

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May 22, 2013

Ripping/Frogging

It is sad when we have to unravel a big chunk of our knitting. First, it means we made a mistake, second, it means that all that time we put into it is now wasted. But it is best to unravel it and do it all over than to keep going and have it bug you when you are wearing the item.

Today, we will tackle: Unraveling your knitting-get it done efficiently, without losing stitches or the entire project.

First, locate the row that is directly below the error.

Second, grab a piece of contrasting color yarn or a circular knitting needle that is about a size 3 or 4 and about 24 inches in length.

Here is the process:

Now that you have located the row, slide the contrasting color yarn/or needle into each of the V shaped stitches, passing it through one of the legs made by the V of the stitch.

Next, pop the stitches off the knitting loom and unravel the knitting. It will stop unraveling when you reach the contrasting color yarn/knitting needle.

Next, place each stitch that you have on the contrasting color yarn/knitting needle, back on the pegs. You should have the same amount of stitches as what you started off with.

Many knitters call the term of unraveling stitches FROGGING, as you “rip it, rip it, rip it” each of the stitches.

1 Comment

  • I am so excited about the new Loom and books! Congrats Pat!!!

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May 17, 2013

Basic BO and Elastic BO

Loomy Knowledge:

Basic Bind Off
Step 1: Knit peg 1.
Step 2: Knit peg 2.
Step 3: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Lift the bottom loop off the peg.
Step 4: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Peg 2 is now your new peg 1.
Repeat steps 1-4.

Elastic Bind off Method also known as the Yarn Over Bind Off
Done with e-wrap, not the knit stitch. The ewrap is what provides the extra yarn for the elasticity.

KO=Knit off, the process of lifting the bottommost loop up and off the peg.
Step 1: Ewrap peg 1 and KO.
Step 2: Ewrap peg 2 and KO.
Step 3: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. KO. Ewrap peg 1. KO.
Step 4: Move loop from peg 1 to empty peg 2. Peg 2 becomes peg 1.
Rep steps 1-4, until all the stitches have been removed from the loom.

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Mar 7, 2013

Crown Stitch

I love playing around with my knitting looms. I have had my eye on this specific stitch for awhile but I just couldn’t wrap my mind around it. I knew it was totally possible but didn’t know how to go about it. I sat down and after a Crown Sttich few failed attempts and much fighting with my knitting loom, I came out victorious! The knitting loom doesn’t know yet that I have a “no quit” policy, hahaha!

I present to you, the Crown Stitch. A lot of my friends are calling it the “broom stitch” from crochet. Since you already know that I know nothing about crochet, I’ll take your word for it ;).

Ready? Here is a playlist on how to do the Crown Stitch. It is two videos. The most important part is at the end of Video 1 and the entire Video 2.

Written Instructions

Crown stitch

(Multiple of 5 stitches)

Row 1: k
Row 2: p
Row 3: k
Row 4: p
Row 5: k1, *k1, ewrap peg 3 times; rep from * to the peg before last, k1
Row 6: *Work on 5 pegs at a time, drop the loops on the first 5 pegs ( peg 1 and last peg only have 1 loop on it). Elongate these wraps. Move all the wraps to peg 1, then from peg 1 to peg 2. Elongate the wraps over 4 pegs (from peg 2 to peg 5). You will now work and create 5 stitches on these elongated wraps as follows: k1, [p1, k1]twice; rep from * to the end.
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl.

Rep these 8 rows.

Enjoy!!!

2 Comments

  • I like your knitting loom patterns and stitches, videos it makes it a fun experience
    to use the knitting looms.

  • Wonderingbifvanyone could explain the brioch stitch on a board. Please.

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