Browsing articles in "Techniques (How-to)"
Nov 17, 2014

Loom FAQS: Which Knit Stitch??

Loom-FAQs1

Two questions I see often and seem to cause drama are What knit stitch do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify? and What is the difference between the different knit stitches?  But my favorite is Why are there so many knit stitches in loom knitting?  While it does seem like there are a lot of knit stitches, there are still only two.  Knit and e-wrap knit.  The confusion occurs because there are 3 ways to make a knit stitch.  And all 3 have different tensions.  So let’s discuss each one and then compare all 4 so we can put that drama to rest.

E-wrap Knit Stitch

I will start with the e-wrap knit since it is usually the first stitch a person learns when he or she picks up a loom for the first time.  E-wrap knit is the loosest knit stitch.  It is taller and uses more yarn than a true knit or purl stitch.  It is a twisted stitch so the stitch looks like a y instead of the classic v of the knit stitch.  When worked in a flat panel, the e-wrap knit gives a great texture to the project since the stitches slant in the opposite way on each row.

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When worked in the round, the stitches will slant in the direction that you work.

ewrap round

You make an e-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, around to the front of the peg,

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and then on around to the back the peg like a cursive e.

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After the peg is wrapped, the working yarn is behind the peg again.

Then you knit over by bringing the bottom loop up and over the new loop you just made.

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Knit Stitch

The knit stitch can be produced 3 different ways, and the size of the stitch varies with one.

  • True Knit Stitch

Let’s look at the true knit stitch first.  It is also called the traditional knit stitch.  Some people call it a reverse purl even though it’s actually more accurate to call a purl a reverse knit.  It is the same height and width of a purl stitch and is best to use when working alongside purls in the rib, garter, seed, and moss stitches.

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You make a true knit stitch by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop.

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You bring your pick up through the existing loop and catch the working yarn.

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Then pull it down through the loop to create a new loop.

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You then take the old loop off the peg.

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Then place the new loop back on the peg.

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Snug up the yarn by gently tugging the working yarn.

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Why does this look just like a purl stitch?  This stitch is not to be confused with the purl.  While the motions appear to be the same, the purl is worked in reverse.  The working yarn is at the bottom of the existing loop, and the new loop is pulled up from the bottom before taking the old loop off the peg and replacing the new loop on.

 

  • U-wrap Knit Stitch

Next is the u-wrap knit.  It is shorter and tighter than the true knit stitch.

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You make a u-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop in front of the peg and pulling it straight back behind the peg without completely wrapping it.

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Then pull the bottom loop up

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and over.

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  • Flat Knit Stitch

The last way to create a knit stitch is the tightest and smallest of the knit stitches.  It is the flat knit.  It can get very tight after just a couple of rows.  Flat knit stitch works best with fibers that stretch like wool.  It is extremely hard to use the flat knit on yarn that have no stretch like cotton.

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You work the flat knit by bringing the working yarn across the front of the peg above the existing loop without any wrap of the peg.

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Then bring the existing loop up

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and over.

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Comparison

I worked 4 swatches using each of the techniques mentioned.  I made all 4 with 16 pegs on the Sock Loom 2 and worked 25 rows using KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn.  I worked all 4 with the chain cast on and used the basic bind off.  I also slipped the first stitch on each row.

From left to right:  e-wrap knit, true knit, u-wrap knit, and flat knit.

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You can see the difference in size with the e-wrap being the largest and loosest and the flat knit being the smallest and tightest.  You can also see how the chain cast on (at the top) was not tight enough as the stitches got tighter and smaller.  You will need to take your cast on into consideration with whichever knit stitch technique you use.  I controlled my tension on all the swatches by not pulling on the yarn as I worked the stitches.  Each of them could have been made tighter by simply pulling and stretching the yarn.

Here is the gauge I achieved with each swatch.  What is gauge?  Gauge is simply the number of stitches in an inch by the number of rows in an inch.  The more stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is smaller.  The fewer stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is larger.  Some patterns will list gauge in a 2” or 4” square.  I will discuss gauge more in next month’s article.  For this demonstration, I will list gauge per inch.

  • E-wrap knit stitch: 3.5 stitches by 5 rows per inch

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  • True knit stitch:  3.75 stitches by 5.5 rows per inch

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  • U-wrap knit stitch:  4 stitches by 6 rows per inch

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  • Flat knit stitch:  5.5 stitches by 7.5 rows per inch

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So as you can see, it makes a big difference in size depending on how the knit stitch is made.  Why can I not use e-wrap on every pattern?  Everyone’s tension is different.  If you were to make the same exact swatch I have, you most likely will have a different gauge.  Designers write their pattern for a certain look or size.  While you can interchange the knit stitch and the e-wrap knit in some patterns, most times it will change the pattern too much in size.  If using the knit stitch, you can adjust your tension by using a different knit stitch technique.  You can also adjust your tension on the flat and u-wrap knit stitches by loosening them as you work the stitches.  I loosen my u-wrap knit by simply pushing the stitch back with my pick after pulling the loop over.  But these swatches were made without loosening the stitches.  They were made as described above.

I hope this helps clarify the knit stitch dilemma and puts the drama to rest.

 

7 Comments

  • I can not believe I’m reading this today of all days!!! Made myself a pair of e-wrap mittens over the weekend and keep catching the stitches. I was just thinking this am, I wonder how many more rows and pegs I’d have to use if I use a knit stitch instead. Then I think, math, yuk!!! This will be so helpful. Renita to the rescue, again! Thanks for this article.

  • I am looking at your shawl pattern and it says to use a rib stitch. What is that?

  • Need to share with my friend who just began knitting!

  • Needed this — love the comparisons.

  • When knitting in the round with the E-wrap stitch, you can make a reverse E-wrap. If knitting from right to left (counter-clockwise/anti-clockwise) make a loop by twisting the yarn clock wise, and place it on the peg. The end of the yarn will then go behind the peg underneath the yarn coming from the left. This can be used to make rows that reverse as if knitting a flat piece back and forth.

  • ???? Arrgg. In the above post on reverse E-wrap, that should have read, “If knitting from LEFT TO RIGHT”.

    Sorry I have dyslexia, so that must have been my other left, or right, or whatever. ????

  • Fairly new knitter here. So, if a pattern just says knit stitch, how do you decide which stitch to use. I now understand why I could not make a scarf from a pattern in one of the KB books as the stitches were so tight. I really wanted to make the scarf for a gift but gave up.

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Oct 27, 2014

Loom FAQs – How Do I Read a Pattern?

Loom-FAQs1

Another question that is often asked is “how do I read a pattern?”  Most times, it’s not even a question.  People will flat out say they don’t know how to read a pattern.  Or that patterns are too hard to read.  Some will even say they don’t care to learn when there are videos to watch.  Well I will say this:  If you don’t learn at least the basics of reading patterns, then you are limiting yourself to what you can make since not all patterns have videos.  So today I would like to address some of those Frequently Asked Questions in regards to reading a pattern.

Where do I start when I am reading a pattern?

I always recommend to start by reading the pattern fully first.  See what you need and when you need it.  Most times if it’s a pattern that has new skills, it can be overwhelming to read through it first.  That is ok.  Do not panic.  It happens to the best of us.  Then you take a deep breath and proceed gathering your supplies.  Once that is done, then you start.  But before we get into starting, let’s discuss how a pattern is usually written.

Patterns can usually be broken down into 3 parts.  I will be using parts of my Paving Rainbows hat pattern for an example.  You can find the complete pattern here:  http://blog.knittingboard.com/index.php/archives/1363

 

Part 1:

The first part is the list of items you need to complete the project.  This is where you will find which loom is required, yarn recommended, and other notions needed.  Patterns will list the yarn needed in number of skeins, yards, or weight.  If you are using a different yarn than the one specified and it’s listed by skeins, balls, or yardage, then you will just need to compare the yardage of the yarn you are wanting to use with the one that was used in the pattern to make sure you have enough since not all skeins or balls have the same amount of yarn in them.

The Paving Rainbow Stones Hat pattern

     Loom: All-n-One loom set for 72 pegs. Sample made on the All-n-One.

     Yarn: 1 skein Bernat Mosaic in Calypso – Color A (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice). 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black – Color B (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice)

     Notions: Loom tool, Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Part 2:

The second part is the abbreviations, gauge, and pattern notes.  In stand-alone patterns available on blogs or other sites, this will follow the list of items.  If it is a pattern in a book, the abbreviations will most likely be found at the front or back of the book.  But the gauge and pattern notes, if any, will still be in this location.

What is gauge?

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows are in a certain number of inches so you know if your tension is correct when knitting an item that needs to be a certain size.  So if it reads,

In stockinette, 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches

you will take a ruler and measure your swatch or work.  If you count 20 stitches in 4 inches on a row in all knit stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches, then you have achieved gauge.

Some patterns will not have it listed if gauge is not important.  Or sometimes the designer forgot to list it.  Oops…

What are pattern notes?

Pattern notes are the special instructions or little helpful tidbits provided by the designer to help clarify how the pattern is to be worked.

      Pattern Notes

· Use only one strand of yarn.

· Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using. Do not cut.

      Abbreviations

· K – flat or u-wrap knit

· P – purl

· S – slip (skip)

· Rnd(s) – Round(s)

Part 3:

The third part is the actual instructions.  Most times it will be written out by rows or rounds.  Some patterns may be written in steps, like I did with my corkscrew tutorial.

     INSTRUCTIONS

E-wrap cast on all pegs.

Rnds 1 – 18 – With color A, K all

Place cast on loops back on pegs, knit over

Rnd 19 – K all

Drop Color A to inside of loom. Add Color B.

Rnd 20 – With color B, K all

Rnds 21-23 – P all

Drop Color B to inside of loom. Pick up Color A.

Rnds 24-29 – With color A, K3, *S2, K6*, repeat from * to * until last 5 pegs, S2, K3

So let’s start at the beginning.  First you will cast on.

What cast on and bind off methods do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify?

In this pattern, I specify an e-wrap cast on.  But when a particular cast on or bind off isn’t specified, then you just use the one that you like best.

Then you start with the first row or round.  In this pattern, rounds 1 – 18 are all the same, so instead of writing out each round, I combined them all into one line.  So for those 18 rounds, you will knit all the pegs.

Now let’s skip to after the brim is made.  I made a note to drop the first color and add the second.  It looks a little out of place here, but there are times where the instructions are needed in the pattern as you go along which is why the instructions for the color change is between the rounds.  Sometimes the designer will write those at the end of the row or round so there is not a break like you see here.

What does it mean when it says to “repeat from *”?

Let’s now look at rounds 24 – 29.  In this pattern, I put an * at the beginning and end of the part that is to be repeated.  Sometimes it will just be at the beginning of the repeat and then say “repeat from * to the end of the row”.  But what does that line mean?  We have seen rounds that are all knits or all purls.  But now we have a mixture of stitches with repeats.

The round reads “With Color A, K3, *S2, K6* repeat from * to * until the last 5 pegs, S2, K3”.  If that were written out for all the pegs, it would read like this:

With color A, knit 3 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, etc., until only 5 pegs remain in the round.  Then slip 2 pegs and knit 3 pegs.  Then you start the next round.  Or if it was written peg by peg, it would be: knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit…

So you can see why the rows or rounds are condensed down into abbreviations and repeats.  Otherwise, a simple pattern would be the size of a small book.

The more complicated repeats will often involve parenthesis as well as asterisks.

So to start off when learning to read a pattern, you may want to write each row or round out so you can better understand it.

And to keep from being overwhelmed by the entire pattern, I would recommend you concentrate on one row at a time.  Just go stitch by stitch and then row by row.  If something doesn’t seem to make sense then look at the previous row and the following row.  Sometimes it will make more sense when you see what is just below or just above the row you are working.

What do the abbreviations mean?

Reading patterns is like reading code.  The reason for abbreviations is for saving space, especially in books and magazines.  Here are some of the more common abbreviations.

 

BO – bind off

CA – color A

CB – color B

CC – contrasting color

CO – cast on

Dec – decrease

EW – e-wrap

Inc – increase

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

KO – Knit over

M1 – make 1 increase

MC – main color

P – purl

P2tog – purl 2 together

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

Rep – repeat

Rnd (s) – rounds(s)

S or sl – slip

SSK – slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together

W&T – wrap and turn

YO – yarn over

What knit stitch do I use if it doesn’t say?

Most times if the pattern just says knit then it is a true or traditional knit stitch.  Some people like to call it a reverse purl.  You can use the u-wrap, flat knit, or even e-wrap, if you are needing to achieve a certain gauge due to your tension.  If the pattern says “no e-wrap”, then it is not recommended to use it since it really is a different stitch entirely.  It is taller and looser and will alter the finished size.

Why are patterns not all written the same?

This is a great question.  I really don’t have a good answer to that one except to say that, while most designers try to keep uniformity to patterns so that they are easy to read, some people are beginners, want to share their designs, and just don’t know how patterns are most commonly written.  And sometimes designers will write a pattern how they like to read them.

Why can I not just use videos?

There usually are not videos for all patterns.  And people cannot randomly make videos without the designer’s permission since it violates copyright.  But when working a pattern and you come across a technique you are unfamiliar with and the written instructions for that technique are confusing, videos are very helpful, and I would recommend using them.

How do I write a pattern?

If you are writing a pattern for the first time and are unsure of what to do, look at other patterns on blogs or on Ravelry.  Then try to follow suit in whatever way makes sense to you.  Most times, our first efforts seem to fall short of our expectations.  Just take a deep breath and try your best.  We all start somewhere and learn.

I really hope this helps get you started on reading patterns.  The worst thing that could happen is that you will need to rip the project out and start over.  But it is only yarn after all.  It is designed to be taken apart and reknit.

 

6 Comments

  • Excellent post, Renita! :) I would only add to your first bit about reading the pattern through entirely first and then possibly feeling overwhelmed or confused…a lot of times the steps that are confusing at the front end make way more sense when you are actually at that section and ready to knit it. I say this as an encouragement not to give up when that original confusion hits upon the first read-through. Just dive in and have fun! :D

    Once again…fantastic advice!

  • Thank you, Bethany! That means a lot to me. While I did say that later, I realize I should have addressed it at the beginning for those who don’t read the entire article.

    Just taking it stitch by stitch and row by row often answers those confusing questions we might have after the first read through.

  • Thank you very much. This was very informative and helped to clear up a few thing for me

  • Hi Renita,
    Where was a person like you when I first started learning knitting and reading patterns soo many years ago! Very good help for beginners! Thank you for a really great article that will be a help to many! Sue

  • I am holding on to this for dear life, I am knew to knitting and loom knitting and have never tried a pattern. You give me hope! Thank you!!

  • Thank you for posting this and explaining how a pattern is read and what a K 3 means to knit 3 pegs and so on I think a lot of times I read into things to much and the answer is staring me right in my face .I over whelm myself and once I try it it’s like thee light bulb comes on ,I will just keep pratcing and will catch on the problem is I try to make things perfect and get overwhelmed when its not as hard as it really is thank you again

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Sep 16, 2014

Loom FAQs – What is Blocking?

Hello!  I am Renita Harvey, and I am so excited to be part of the wonderful KB team.  I have been loom knitting since I was a child.  My first looms were a spool loom and a small 12 peg round loom.  About the age of 12, my parents gave me a Spin Knit loom.  This was my first large loom that I made hats and scarves on.  This was quite a few years before Knifty Knitter looms came along.  Only thing I had to teach myself was the booklet that came with the loom.  It only contained very basic information.  E-wrap knit only.  Not even a purl stitch!  Now we have wonderful loom knit books written by very talented people and have a wealth of information at our fingertips on the internet.  But almost every day, I see questions about “how do I do this or that” in loom knitting.  Well, I would like to answer some of those Frequently Asked Questions or Loom FAQs in this column. Look for my column on the third Monday of every month.

Loom FAQs

Today I would like to address a very common question.

What is blocking?

Blocking is a finishing technique used in knitting and crochet.  It is a way to flatten a piece, helps with straightening and sizing pieces that are to be seamed together, helps set the stitches, and opens up lace stitches.

But after that is said, there are always even more questions to be answered.

When and why do you block something?

If you are making a sweater or another project that will be pieced or seamed together, you will need to block each piece to size and shape before assembly.  Please note that while you will be able to make some smaller pieces a little larger and make pieces match in size, if your gauge or tension is not correct, you will not be able to completely resize it with blocking.

If you are knitting a lace pattern, you will want to block the project to open up those beautiful lace stitches.  It does make a world of difference with lace.

What fibers can you block?

You can block every kind of fiber.  The type of fiber depends on the type of blocking.

What items do I need to block?

  • A place to block the items
  • Rust-proof pins
  • Blocking wires (optional)
  • Steam machine or steam iron for steam blocking
  • Spray bottle for spray blocking
  • Water – MOST IMPORTANT!

 

Do I need a blocking board?  Are they important?

First you will need an area large enough for your item.  One such item is a blocking board.  Blocking boards are large boards covered in a tightly woven thick fabric printed with a grid over a piece of foam, cork, or acoustic board for the pins to stick in.  While I personally do have one, they are not necessary to block an item.  Sometimes they are just not large enough for the project.  Some people may not have the space to store one.  Kits may be bought to build your blocking board.  But again it’s not as essential as having a space to do it.

You can use a bed, the floor, or even interconnecting foam blocks like floor mats or preschool letter blocks.  Any of these surfaces can be covered with a waterproof liner like a trash bag and then covered with towels or blankets so you can pin the item into place.

Why do I need rust-proof pins?

Which leads me to a very important tool for blocking.  Rust-proof pins.  Make sure they are rust-proof since all types of blocking involve water.  Unless they are rust-proof, the pins will rust.  And rust stains cannot be removed from the yarn.  Let me say “rust-proof” one more time for good measure…

Other questions I have seen involve tools that can be used for blocking.

What are blocking wires and why would I use blocking wires?

Blocking wires are wires that are woven into the edges of the work to help keep the shape of the edge.  If you do not use wires, you sometimes get a scalloped edge when the work dries and draws up in between the pins if they are not close enough together.  There are 2 kinds of blocking wires.  Rigid wires for the straight edges, and flexible wires for the curved edges.  You do not need to use as many pins when using wires, but blocking wire are not required to block an item.

Do I need a steam machine or can I just use an iron?

While steam machines are nice to have and make it easier to steam block items, they are not necessary.  A steam iron will work.  You just need to remember not to get too close to the work since you have a large heat source on the iron while you do not have that with a steamer.  But you can not just iron an item in order to block it.  You can cause a lot of damage to the work if the iron is placed directly on it.

How do you block something?

This just happens to be the most important question of all.  How?  Well there are 3 ways to block a project.

  1. Wet blocking
  2. Spray blocking
  3. Steam blocking

Let take each one separately.

Wet Blocking

You can wet block any natural fibers.  You cannot wet block acrylics.  Acrylics need to be steam blocked.  We will discuss why in Steam Blocking.

First you need to soak the item for at least 15 minutes so that all the fibers are fully saturated.  You then will squeeze out the excess water.  Do not wring or twist!  This will stretch the stitches out of shape completely.  After squeezing out as much water as I can, I like to put a couple of towels on the floor, lay the item on top, then add another towel on top to cover the item.  Then I simply stand on it in my bare feet.  Sounds crazy, I know.  But standing on all parts of the item will finish squeezing out the excess water without twisting and cause it to dry faster.

Then you pin your item on the prepared blocking area to the shape and size needed.  You will place your pins about 2″ or less apart if you are not using blocking wires.  You can use a lot less pins with the wires.  Allow the item to completely dry before removing it.

Spray Blocking

You can spray block all natural fibers, but not acrylics.  Spray blocking is like wet blocking except you do not soak the item first.  You first pin your item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet blocking.  Then you use a spray bottle of water and spray the item until it is completely wet.  Allow the item to dry before removing it.

Steam Blocking

All types of fiber can be steam blocked.  Why can acrylics only be steam blocked?  Acrylic yarn is basically plastic and only heat from steam can set the stitches.   Water alone cannot do this with acrylic while it will work with natural fibers.  But you cannot iron it either.  Direct heat from an iron will either completely melt the yarn or “kill” the fabric.  “Killing” acrylic is not quite as violent as it sounds.  It just means that the acrylic has melted to the point that it has lost its stretch and body but has not been completely ruined.  There are times killing acrylic is useful, but not when you are wanting to block the item.

First you will pin the item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet or spray blocking.  Then you will steam the item in small areas at a time until the entire piece is steamed and damp.  If using an iron, remember to not get the iron surface too close to the item.  And also be careful not to touch the pins or wires, if using wires, as the steam will cause them to get hot as well and will burn you.

Allow the item to dry completely before unpinning it.

Sounds like a lot of work.  And most times, it is.  But the finished result is always amazing!

 

 

 

9 Comments

  • Thank you for the FAQ.
    This is off topic but can someone do a tutorial on the stockinette curl? I can’t do the basic tweed HAT that’s included in the loom instructions. Although I do the ribbing eventually the stockinette starts to curl and it causes the ribbing to also pull up. The hat is made IN THE ROUND. I see many hats made of stockinette so there must be a way to do this and remain in the stockinette pattern. Many sites say just to pick another stitch. Thank you.

  • Very informative. Well done Renita!

  • Thanks Renita. I never understood why wet blocking didn’t work with my acrylic pieces. This article means a recent UFO may finally see completion!

  • Excellent first article, Renita! :) You’ve done a very thorough job of explaining a really important step in knitting…can’t wait to see what you will have next!

  • Thanks Renita I noticed some people never heard or know about blocking. Keep up the good work. God bless you always!

  • Can a portable steamer be used for blocking acrylic then? I’ve a shawl I’m almost finished with, but the bulky yarn combined w/ the figure eight stitch (single knitting) isn’t showing well. I was thinking blocking might help to “open it up”?

  • Allison, you can use a portable steamer. Just be very careful not to get too close or you will kill the acrylic with the steam. But bulky yarn with that stitch may not open up anyway.

  • Hi,

    I have a question please.. if I have a mixed yearn, shall I decide which blocking method to use based on the highest percentage of the material in the yearn?

    Thanks
    Brunella

  • Brunella, if you have mixed yarn, the safest method to block it is by doing a wet block.

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Aug 16, 2014

Slouchy Hat on the Loom Knitting with the All-n-One Loom booklet

LoomKnittingwithallione

We received a request for a little bit of extra assistance in creating the slouchy hat pictured in the front cover of the All-n-One loom.

The instructions for the increase round read: Rnd 9: *k3, m1l; rep from * to the end of rnd (80 sts).

I will offer you two methods to achieve this:

Method 1:

Remove all 60 stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or on a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, keep repeating this instructions until you have place all stitches back on the knitting loom.

*Knit 3 pegs, now create the M1L and place it on the empty peg; repeat from the *.

Method 2: 

*Knit 3 pegs, M1L and place it on peg 3 (over the loop already there, peg 3 will have 2 loops on it). Continue around the knitting loom repeating this sequence.

On the following round: knit 2 pegs, lift the loop that is at the top of peg 3 and hold it or place it on peg 4, knit the loop on peg 3, place the loop that you were holding back on top of peg 3 (or move it from peg 4 back to peg 3), knit this loop (be sure to only knit the top loop and leave the one at the bottom untouched). Continue around the loom  repeating this sequence.

Now, remove all the stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place your stitches back on the knitting loom.

I hope the above helps to facilitate the increases. It is the most laborious round of the hat, take it slow and one step at a time.

Good luck!

5 Comments

  • what happened to the video of the triangle Isela phelps taught for a blanket.

  • Islela, Thank you! The info on the slouchy hat was great! Easy ,peasy! Kari

  • I have learned so much from you about loom knitting, I am blind and you are a great teacher.I have looked all over for the triangle video or square made from the inside out and can’t find it. Can you help me thank you Judy

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Dec 17, 2013

Storybrook Cloche Stitch breakdown

We have had a few inquiries about the Storybrook Cloche. I decided to provide you with a breakdown of the rows. I hope it helps the process a little bit.

I am tackling the highlighted rows

 

storybrook cloche instructions2

Row 2

  • Move loops from pegs as follows:

– from 5 to 6
– from 4 to 5
– from 3 to 4
– from 2 to 3
– from 1 to 2

  • Ewrap peg 1
  • Knit pegs 1, 2, 3
  • Skip peg 4 with yarn behind peg
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom loop off from peg 5
  • Move loops as follows:

-From peg 7 to 6
-From peg 8 to 7
-From peg 9 to 8

  • Peg 9 is empty. YO on peg 9 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 10

Row 4

  • Knit peg 1
  • Ewrap peg 1
  • Knit pegs 2 and 3
  • Skip peg 4 with yarn behind peg.
  • Move loop from peg 5 to 6.
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from 4 to 5
  • Move loop from 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom most loop off peg 5
  • Move loop from peg 3 to 4
  • Move loop from peg 2 to 3
  • YO on peg 2 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 7 and then move it to peg 6.
  • YO on peg 7 (ewrap)
  • Knit peg 8 and 9
  • Purl peg 10

Row 6

  • Knit peg 1, 2, 3
  • Move loop from peg 5 to 6
  • Move loop from peg 4 to 5
  • YO on peg 4 (ewrap)
  • Skip peg 5 with yarn behind peg
  • Knit peg 6 (treat both loops as one)
  • Move loop from peg 6 to 5
  • Lift bottom most loop off peg 5
  • YO  on peg 6 (ewrap)
  • Knit pegs 7, 8, 9, purl peg 10

 

2 Comments

  • Thank you for posting this. This pattern has raised a lot of questions. Would you be so kind to post a break down for the Brilynn Cowl too? Would love to make it! Thank you.

  • Yay! I’m trying to make the Peaks Fingerless Mitts from the Sock Loom Projects book and I couldn’t find other instructions for the Peaks pattern. Sounds like this pattern is similar, at least to help me with some of the stitches.

    :-)

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Dec 13, 2013

Loom Knitting Videos for the Faux Woven Cowl

Isela models Faux Cowl

Video one shows Rows 1-3.

Video 2 shows Row 4.

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Nov 17, 2013

Tip on Tightening up an E-wrap Cast On

Most of us learn to loom knit with the e-wrap cast on method. We quickly realize that it produces a loopy cast on. Here is a tip that I have used for several years in a lot of my knits. Enjoy!

1 Comment

  • I love this! What a wonderful way to clean up such a widely used cast on! :)

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Nov 16, 2013

Pony Tail Hole Video

Pony Tail Hole video

I have received a few emails asking me to create a video on creating the pony tail hole for the Pony Tail Hat. Here is a short video demonstrating how I create this opening.

Enjoy!

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Oct 24, 2013

Mitered Square How-to

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Jul 8, 2013

Loom a Hat on the AIO (Updated)

AllnOneHat smallerAll-n-One Knitting Loom Hat Numbers

The table provided has 3 different numbers, one for DK weight yarn and the other two with worsted weight yarn. I have gotten two different gauges with the worsted weight yarn. I have gotten 4.5 and 4 stitches to the inch. I provided a table with both gauges. All the hat numbers have a 15% negative ease already built in. For example, the adult male hat, with 84 pegs at a gauge of 4.5 stitches will yield a tube that is about 18.6 inches. We want a hat to fit snugly, approximately about 10-15%, with a 15% negative ease, this hat will fit a circumference up to 21.4 inches. All the peg numbers provided have also been rounded to a multiple of 4, if you do not need a multiple of 4, deduct or add 2 pegs.

Hat shown in the picture on the right is a DK weight hat using 84 pegs.

This table was updated on 7/8/13 to include DK weight numbers and Fingering (Sock weight yarn) numbers. I test knitted on the loom using Fingering Weight yarn and was able to get a nice fabric at a gauge of 7 sts to the inch.

NOTE: the recommended peg numbers are suggested when using the KNIT STITCH, not the ewrap. If you want to do the ewrap stitch, knit a swatch and find out your gauge and then calculate how many pegs to use.
Tip: if you using the ewrap, typically you will go down a size from what the chart indicates. Example: women’s in a knit stitch/flat stitch with worsted weight yarn, it recommends 76. If I am using the ewrap, I would do 68 or even 64 (if the head is in the smaller size)

Suggested Numbers for AIO Hats

19 Comments

  • Awesome!

  • I have a problem with this chart are you making a panel or knitting in the round ?? if so in the round you would make a baby premie hat to fit an adult i uses the all-in-one loom with 34 pegs and made a nice size premie hat. has anyone made a premie hat using 72 pegs and had it fit??????? I also make baby hats using the blue plastic ring of 24 pegs.

    Help!!!!!! has anyone made a baby sweater on the all-in-one loom. and can anyone tell me the convergen using the plastic loom patterns on the all-in-one loom?

  • Jewel,
    The peg number provided go with the gauge that I received when I was test knitting. The 72 pegs is if you are using really, really thin yarn, fingering weight–such as lace yarn or sock yarn. The table provides the gauge that we are “assuming” for each of the sizes. Hope this helps.

  • not really as i used yarn fingering weight yarn and if i wrapped 72 pegs the hat would fit me (adult) how do you find the gauge and so you make a single row hat or do you go in a circle???

  • it sounds like you are making a panel and not a circle as i did with both the all-in-one loom and the little blue round plastic loom. I am trying to learn to make baby out fits and such with the loom as i am not very good with knitting needles. hope you can help me with this.

  • With these, I was making a circle. I did a test swatch with fingering weight yarn and my swatch gave the the gauge of 7 sts per inch. Of course, my little hat will be a tube that is about 10 inches in circumference, so it will fit a head that would be anywhere from 10-13 inches in circumference.

    To find the gauge: knit a panel that is at least 4 inches wide by 4 inches tall. Then flatten it out on a flat surface, place a ruler on top of it, then count the number of stitches you get in a inch, then count how many rows you get in an inch.

  • thanks that helps but you have 128 pegs for adult male but the all-in-one loom has only 107 pegs how would you make a hat like that with less pegs???? or do you use only worsted weight for adult and children’s hats ???

  • Thanks for this. Do you maybe have this for the sock loom( KB SOCK LOOM Adjustable)?

  • Is it not recommended that you use a bulky yarn? Or did you just not figure out the peg counts for it? I’m wanting to use a bulkier yarn on the AIO and I’m not having any luck figuring out how many pegs for a newborn hat

  • I am so-o pleased to have found your chart to give me something to work from. I am still waiting for Amazon to deliver my AIO loom so have been searching the web to find as many patterns as possible but needed the confidence that experience would give me. Your patterns, chart and `goodknitkisses` have given me a good grounding, now with your chart I feel I will have that confidence to start looming.
    Thank you.

  • Is this chart using a flat knit stitch? I would imagine if using an ewrap or twisted stockinette not as many pegs would be needed?

  • Yes, you are correct. It is using a knit stitch. You would need less pegs if you are using the ewrap stitch.

  • Can you make the last minute slouchy hat if you make the hat smaller since it is to big for me.
    thank you Judy

  • I need to know how to wrap a rec one? want to make a shawl or afghan I cant find instructions… thank you for any help you can give me

  • What is a “rec one”

  • Yes, simply use a stitch peg multiple that will accommodate the stitch pattern.

  • True Knit stitch. Yes, if you use the ewrap stitch, you will need less pegs to create the same width. If you use the same amount of pegs and the ewrap it will be wider.

  • It is not recommended for bulky yarn. The pegs are too closed together.

  • Thank you so much for this post, I bought the AIO because it was reccommended to use with your babies and toddlers book, and I’m making a hat on it because my other baby sized looms won’t do what I want to do. I look forward to making many of your patterns on it!

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Jul 3, 2013

Miter Squares Videos

Hi guys,

Here is the videos demonstrating how to complete the miter square. Again, there are two ways on how to do them, in this video I am showing how to complete a miter square from the outside in.

Enjoy!

 

2 Comments

  • Thanks for posting this. I needed to do this to finish a project and I won’t have to devise it for myself. I love your practical suggestions!

  • how do you make a square from the inside out.
    thank you Judy

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Jul 3, 2013

How Many Pegs for a Sock?

One of the most regular questions we receive is how many pegs do I cast on for my foot? Here is a handy little table that has some numbers that may help you.

You must first find the following:

1. The circumference around the ball of the foot.

2. Find your gauge by working a swatch in the round with the yarn you will be using, the loom you will be using and the stitch you will be using.

Once you have the above, find the closest match to the table below.

KB Sock Loom 2 Peg Numbers

 

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Jul 2, 2013

Miter Squares

I have always found them fascinating, especially when they are put together in a blanket configuration. I am currently working on a miter blanket and I wanted to show you all how to create this awesome squares. Miter Square

What you will need:

Loom: Sock Loom 2. You can also use the AIO loom.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn, approx 20-30 yards.

Notions: Knitting tool, 2 stitch markers of different color

INSTRUCTIONS

Get two stitch markers that are different color. Name one marker A and the other B.

Set your knitting loom to its largest setting. You want your slider all the way down to the edge. Count 12 pegs from the edge of the rail, place stitch Marker A on the peg. Then count 5 pegs from the slider and 7 pegs from the other rail; place stitch Marker B on the last peg on this rail.

Using the Yarn Over cast on, cast on 24 pegs. Start casting on at the peg with Marker B.  (You can use any other cast on that provides a firm foundation. I do not recommend the ewrap cast on).

Working yarn will be located by Marker A.

Row 1: k10, k2tog, k2tog, k10

Row 2 and all even rows (to row 22): p

Row 3: k9, k2tog, k2tog, k9

Row 5: k8, k2tog, k2tog, k8

Row 7: k7, k2tog, k2tog, k7

Row 9: k6, k2tog, k2tog, k6

Row 11: k5, k2tog, k2tog, k5

Row 13: k4, k2tog, k2tog, k4

Row 15: k3, k2tog, k2tog, k3

Row 17: k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2

Row 19: k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1

Row 21: k2tog, k2tog

Row 23: k2tog

BO: Cut working yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Ewrap peg with yarn tail, lift the bottom loop off. Then pull the tail through to create the BO.

Video coming soon!

2 Comments

  • This is really nice! I am a hand knitter and I have a bad thumb now and I always wanted to knit these but have not been able to do it. I’m going to try this. I’m wondering if you can “join as you go”?

  • Could instructions for the Yarn-Over Cast-On shown by Isela Phelps in her video of the Magic Mitered Squares be added to the How-To Basics instructions? I really like this cast-on, and would like to submit some patterns here using it, but I don’t want to explain it in every pattern.

    lmk

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Jun 19, 2013

How Much Yarn Needed?

Ever wondered how much yarn you need for a project? Yes, I have wondered too and sometimes I sit down and have to figure out how much I need and then I go and buy what I need plus a little more.

I came across this table from Lion Brand and I am tickled pink! I hope you find it useful as much as I did. Bookmark it for future projects :). It has approximations for all sorts of projects, from scarves for babies  to afghans.

Enjoy!

 

4 Comments

  • Thanks for this link. It is a real time saver.

    If you follow the link, you can download a PDF, which will open in iBooks on iPhones and iPads. It is great to have this on my iPad to refer to when I need it. Pieces of paper are so easy to lose.

    lmk

  • Where is the web site?

  • Hi I only just had my sock loom finding it different to my matha Stewart loom .but thought I would give useful tip cut. Up jumbo drinking straws as thick as you like they slip over. The pegs so serve as stitch markers so cheap and colors as well
    Hope this helps jann

  • The (red) word “table” in the second paragraph above is a hyperlink to this website.

    http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/96.html

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May 22, 2013

Ripping/Frogging

It is sad when we have to unravel a big chunk of our knitting. First, it means we made a mistake, second, it means that all that time we put into it is now wasted. But it is best to unravel it and do it all over than to keep going and have it bug you when you are wearing the item.

Today, we will tackle: Unraveling your knitting-get it done efficiently, without losing stitches or the entire project.

First, locate the row that is directly below the error.

Second, grab a piece of contrasting color yarn or a circular knitting needle that is about a size 3 or 4 and about 24 inches in length.

Here is the process:

Now that you have located the row, slide the contrasting color yarn/or needle into each of the V shaped stitches, passing it through one of the legs made by the V of the stitch.

Next, pop the stitches off the knitting loom and unravel the knitting. It will stop unraveling when you reach the contrasting color yarn/knitting needle.

Next, place each stitch that you have on the contrasting color yarn/knitting needle, back on the pegs. You should have the same amount of stitches as what you started off with.

Many knitters call the term of unraveling stitches FROGGING, as you “rip it, rip it, rip it” each of the stitches.

1 Comment

  • I am so excited about the new Loom and books! Congrats Pat!!!

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May 17, 2013

Basic BO and Elastic BO

Loomy Knowledge:

Basic Bind Off
Step 1: Knit peg 1.
Step 2: Knit peg 2.
Step 3: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Lift the bottom loop off the peg.
Step 4: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Peg 2 is now your new peg 1.
Repeat steps 1-4.

Elastic Bind off Method also known as the Yarn Over Bind Off
Done with e-wrap, not the knit stitch. The ewrap is what provides the extra yarn for the elasticity.

KO=Knit off, the process of lifting the bottommost loop up and off the peg.
Step 1: Ewrap peg 1 and KO.
Step 2: Ewrap peg 2 and KO.
Step 3: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. KO. Ewrap peg 1. KO.
Step 4: Move loop from peg 1 to empty peg 2. Peg 2 becomes peg 1.
Rep steps 1-4, until all the stitches have been removed from the loom.

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Mar 7, 2013

Crown Stitch

I love playing around with my knitting looms. I have had my eye on this specific stitch for awhile but I just couldn’t wrap my mind around it. I knew it was totally possible but didn’t know how to go about it. I sat down and after a Crown Sttich few failed attempts and much fighting with my knitting loom, I came out victorious! The knitting loom doesn’t know yet that I have a “no quit” policy, hahaha!

I present to you, the Crown Stitch. A lot of my friends are calling it the “broom stitch” from crochet. Since you already know that I know nothing about crochet, I’ll take your word for it ;).

Ready? Here is a playlist on how to do the Crown Stitch. It is two videos. The most important part is at the end of Video 1 and the entire Video 2.

Written Instructions

Crown stitch

(Multiple of 5 stitches)

Row 1: k
Row 2: p
Row 3: k
Row 4: p
Row 5: k1, *k1, ewrap peg 3 times; rep from * to the peg before last, k1
Row 6: *Work on 5 pegs at a time, drop the loops on the first 5 pegs ( peg 1 and last peg only have 1 loop on it). Elongate these wraps. Move all the wraps to peg 1, then from peg 1 to peg 2. Elongate the wraps over 4 pegs (from peg 2 to peg 5). You will now work and create 5 stitches on these elongated wraps as follows: k1, [p1, k1]twice; rep from * to the end.
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl.

Rep these 8 rows.

Enjoy!!!

2 Comments

  • I like your knitting loom patterns and stitches, videos it makes it a fun experience
    to use the knitting looms.

  • Wonderingbifvanyone could explain the brioch stitch on a board. Please.

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Feb 27, 2013

Headband LAL-Complete mini-video playlist

Hey friends,

The entire playlist has been uploaded and is ready for you.  Enjoy!

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Feb 12, 2013

Headband Pattern Video LAL 1 and 2

Help to the rescue!!!

After 6 hours, the videos have finally finished uploading! Yay! We have two parts ready for you. Part 1 covers til row 8. Part 2 covers til row 12. These two parts have you covered for the increases portion of the headband. If you have any questions, comments, hit me up below in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them within 48 hours.

6 Comments

  • Are written instructions forthcoming?

  • I am so new I just received my loom today! But I am very confused. If you use the e cast on, can you go back a forth? Or do you always need to knit in the round? I have watched several videos for casting on, I favor the figure 8 cast on-but there isn’t any information as to what I would do after casting on, do I continue doing the figure 8 or the every other wrap. I was wondering if you could also recommend a good starter book. I am a very experienced knitter but my hands need a break. I also prefer to knit with fingering yarn, but trying it in my 28″ board gave me awful results.

    Thank you for your help
    Mindy

  • Linda, the written instructions are in the blog post below/previous to this one.

  • I am somehow missing the decreases??

  • I’m not getting the part 3 video, it plays 1 & 2 then skips to 4!

  • Isela I love your design but I am a little knew at this cut you possibly make a video to show us hit

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Sep 14, 2012

Mittens, thumbs, oh dear! Final part

How are you all my dear loomies! Almost done with those mittens? Ready to tackle the thumb!

Here goes nothing. You have at this point lovely mitten with a big hole on one side. You have two options, leave it as a hole or knit a little more and have a complete mitten, hopefully you will choose the latter.

If you are ready to start with your thumb, then lets get started :).

Thumb Instructions:

PU=pick up
WY=Working yarn

Set your loom to a 18 peg configuration.
PU 7 sts from the stitch holder and place them on the loom.
PU 2 sts from the side of the thumb hole, PU 7 sts from the mitten (the 7 pegs that you casted on, place those loops on the pegs), PU 2 sts from the other side of the thumb hole. 18 sts on the loom.

Rnd 1-14: Join WY to first peg. k to the end of rnd.
Optional (if you want to taper the end of the thumb, if not, skip this round): Rnd 16: k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog.
Rnd 17-18: k
GBO

Now, you may be asking yourself how did she get the yarn to match. If you are using self-striping yarn, you are going to have to unravel the yarn until you get to the same spot of dye color as in your first mitten, the thumb was pure luck that I ended up with the same type of color change as the body of the mitten–the stars were aligned.

Have fun knitting your mitts!!!

7 Comments

  • J’ adore…magnifique les travaillers.
    Je suis brasilienne, adorée travaille manualles.

  • Re: Mittens, thumbs, oh dear!
    Hello
    Do you have this pattern in a child’s size?? 5- 8 yrs.
    Thank you B.

  • LOVE it no sewing, Does this pattern come in child’s size 5- 8 yrs. and men’s?? Please add that too.

  • I found this to fit my grandsons 5, 6 yrs. for me I added 4 more sts. 36sts.

  • I need help. I have a great pattern (or so I thought) for my knitting board. It calls for a slip stitch a number of times and I can not figure out how do do one. I thought it was a form of decreasing, but when I apply that principle the pattern does not work!! Many thanks for any help

  • It simply means to skip the peg. Usually with the yarn towards the back of the peg.

  • will you post the pattern or how many pegs we need for different sizes of mitts to make

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