Browsing articles in "Stitches"
Mar 7, 2016

Stitchology 19 : Irish Moss

March is the month filled with green and all things Irish!  Also known as Double Moss Stitch, this month’s design is another one of those wonderful stitches that consist of only knits and purls— perfect for a quick knit with loads of texture and possible future uses. This stitch’s compact nature resembles single crochet.  It also lays flat, and is completely identical from front to back, making it perfect for use on items that will be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Irish Moss Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 4—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P40

Row 2:  K40

Row 3:  P40

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  K3, *p1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: P3, *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, p1.

Row 6: K2, *p1, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: P2, *k1, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rows 8-62:  Rep Rows 4-7, ending with Row 6.

Finishing Rows

Row 63: P40

Row 64:  K40

Row 65:  P40

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

8 Comments

  • Beautiful work, Bethany! Stitchology is such a fabulous resource for the loom knitting community.

  • It lists rows 4,5,6,7 then 10 then followed by rows8-62, in the written part I’m confused. Do we go to row 8 after 7 and repeat the pattern and for get about row 10 in written part?

  • Haha! Oopsie, you are correct. There was an errant row left in there from the template. I have corrected the pattern to *not* have that Row 10. ;) Thanks for the heads up!

  • Awww…thank you so much, Jenny! I hope it is and will remain so! :)

  • Absolutely beautiful Bethany! I feel inspired to make a dishcloth or an afghan square out of this. I love stitchology; I have learned so much from these articles. :)

  • Yay, thank you, Colleen! You make me smile, as inspiration and knowledge is the point of the whole column. I’m so happy to hear things like this to know that it is doing its job! :D

  • I have been looking all over for something like this…never thought to check out this blog. The idea behind stichology, and the way it is set up is great. I like that it has both charts and written instructions. Now I can finally make pretty well anything I want with my 28″ KB. Thanks for all the work you put into stitchology.

  • Cath, this is so nice of you…I’m so pleased to hear you enjoy Stitchology and find it so useful! :D We will be looking for the stitches featured in your future projects. :)

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Feb 1, 2016

Stitchology 18 : Hugs & Kisses

 

XOXOX, a symbol for hugs and kisses, is a term used for expressing sincerity, faith, love, or good friendship at the end of a written letter, email, or text message.  This practice has been in use clear back into the Middle Ages. Since most of the common people could not read or write, the ‘X’ was placed on documents, and a kiss was placed over it as a show of their sincerity.  The ‘o’ physically resembles a hug, and has joined the ‘X’ near signatures as a perfect pair to express love and friendship.  With Valentine’s Day coming up this month, it’s a perfect time to learn this stitch. :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Hugs & Kisses Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10 for repeats of the same column, or 20 for repeats of the 2 alternating columns.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap…except in the row before working the cables, as noted below.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 4 pegs in the correct order.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to e-wrap the knit stitches that sit right in line with the cable pegs in the row before the cable row to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. Simply untwist the e-wrap loops when creating the cables.

[2/2RC]:  Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loops from the 2 right pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right pegs first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the right.
  • Knit the 2 stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty left pegs and knit them.  Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

[2/2LC]: Worked over 4 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the 2 left pegs of the 4 designated cable pegs and place them on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the 2 stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over 2 pegs to the left.
  • Place the stitches from the cable needle onto the now empty right pegs and knit them. Knit the 2 stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all 4 sts before moving on.

 

Chart-Key-Hugs & Kisses

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Rows 1 & 2:  p1, k8, p2, k8, p1.

(**Note: if you need extra room to cross those cable stitches, you can read Row 2 (and all rows right before a cable row) as: p1, ew8, p2, ew8, p1. Just make sure to untwist the e-wraps while working the cables.)

Row 3: p1, 2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p1.

Rows 4-6: rep Row 1.

Row 7: rep Row 3.

Rows 8-10: rep Row 1.

Row 11: p1, 2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p1.

Rows 12-14: rep Row 1.

Row 15: rep Row 11.

Row 16: rep Row 1.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Hugs n Kisses angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Rows 1-4: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5:  k2, p1, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p1, k2.

Row 6: p3, *k8, p2, rep from * twice more, k8, p3.

hugs n kisses close(**Note: the k8’s can be e-wraps here…see notes above.)

Row 7:  k2, p1, *2/2RC, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, 2/1RC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Row 8: rep Row 6.  (**Use regular knits/u-stitches here.)

Row 9: rep Row 5.

Row 10: rep Row 6. (**The k8’s can be e-wraps…see notes above.)

Row 11: rep Row 7.

Rows 12-14: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 15: k2, p1, *2/2LC, 2/2RC, p2, 2/2RC, 2/1LC, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,  k2.

Rows 16-18: rep Rows 8-10.

Row 19: rep Row 15.

Row 20: rep Row 8.

Row 21-60: Repeat Rows 5-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-64: k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k3, p2, k3] rep between [ ] once, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Wonderful!

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Jan 4, 2016

Stitchology 17 : Triple Slip Rib

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Triple Slip Rib side angle

Now that the holidays have passed and all the rush and hurry is behind us, it’s time to work up a stitch on our looms that doesn’t take too much thinking or tricky finger-work to accomplish.  This stitch pattern is just the ticket!  It is a simple 8 row repeat and once you get the hang of them, they can be worked entirely from memory.  The long alternating dashes resemble a nice rustic weave, and results in a fairly thick and sturdy panel.  It would be a perfect stitch for a cowl or scarf, or even an entire blanket!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Triple Slip Rib Square

Triple Slip Rib Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.  This stitch pattern will do this in groups of three stitches at a time.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Triple Slip Rib StitchTriple Slip Rib close

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & 2: p1, k1, p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p1, WYIF-3.
Rows 5 & 6: repeat Row 1.
Row 7: repeat Row 4.
Row 8: repeat Row 3.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Triple Slip Rib Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p39.
Row 2: k39.
Row 3: p39.
Row 4: k39.

Triple Slip Rib front angleMain Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, *p2, k1, repeat form * to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 7: p3, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-3, p1, k2.
Row 9 & 10: repeat Rows 5 & 6.
Row 11: p4, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 12: k2, p2, k1, p1, *SWYF-3, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Rows 13-60: repeat Rows 5-12 6 more times.
Row 61 & 62: repeat Rows 5 & 6.

Finishing Rows

Row 63: p39.
Row 64: k39.
Row 65: p39.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

9 Comments

  • Please we want videos because im biggener

  • Hello Eman :) I’m so glad you’ve joined the wonderful world of loom knitting! We are working on developing video tutorials on some of these stitches. A few of them have been completed and are located at the regular website here: http://knittingboard.com/

    But, let’s see if we can’t get you going on this stitch in the meantime. It is really quite a simple square, I promise! When you are reading the pattern instructions for the square, what exactly is it that you don’t understand so I can help you better??

    Thanks!
    Bethany ~

  • Looks like you can also find the stitch videos on KB’S YouTube Channel here:
    https://www.youtube.com/user/knittingboard/videos

  • Hi Bethany,

    thank you for your great work every month, it’s really appreciated! One question please, would this stitch pattern curl if the border is not used? I would like to use it on an infinity scarf but I am not fond of the border.

    Thanks
    Brunella

  • Oh, thank you so much, Brunella! I appreciate the appreciation, lol! :D

    I believe that since this pattern combines knits and purls fairly evenly, it will lay pretty flat even without the border. It felt nice and sturdy while knitting it up, so I’m pretty sure you’ll be fine. The backside looks like a simple 2 x 1 ribbing, so it would be fine seeing it from both sides as well.

    I’d love to see your scarf when it’s all done! :D
    Bethany~

  • thank you for your reply! I am planning to start shortly.. as soon as I finish at least one WIP!

  • Bethany, I thank you very much for all of the wonderful patterns you create and share with us. I am using the All-in-One Loom to make the Stitchology Squares ( I am so excited to try each and every one, just beautiful!!!). But, I am following the directions, use the cast on you suggest, true knit and purl stitches and a #4 worsted weight yarn. My squares are wider than yours but not 8 inches high so turn out more like a rectangle shape. What am I doing wrong? Sure would appreciate your ideas.

    Thank you,
    Marilyn

  • Hi Marilyn! :) I’m so excited to hear you’ve been following along and making squares with us! The more the merrier, right?? :D

    As for the square not coming out even, blocking really helps with this. If you are using a wool, or a mostly wool blend, blocking should be a snap. The process helps train those fibers to reset into the shape you desire. I like to use a foam pad onto which I have marked an 8 x 8 inch square with a permanent marker…this makes it so easy to stretch the wet square to the proper size.

    Now, if you are consistently on every square coming up short, you may just need to add a couple border garter rows on both the top and bottom. Or if you need to do another repeat of the pattern itself, that would be fine too. Everybody knits at varying gauges, so this may just be something you need to address with added rows. Or…you could add enough rows to make your squares actually squares, then block to a bigger measurement so that they will all be the same, just larger than the original 8 x 8. That’s totally acceptable either way! :)

    I hope this helps you…Happy stitching!

  • Thank you! Those are wonderful suggestions as I plan to make an afghan using all of your different square patterns and I feel so much better knowing there is a way to “remedy” the size/shape of the way mine are turning out. I really appreciate your help Bethany.

    Marilyn

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Dec 7, 2015

Stitchology 16 : The Evergreen Stitch

Welcome to the Loom Knitting Advent Day 7…

Evergreen Stitch

Designed by Bethany Dailey

Nothing says winter is upon us like the sight and smell of evergreens.  How appropriate to celebrate the season with a stitch square that echoes those majestic, green forests.  This stitch has some simple twists and 2 over 1 cables, along with a few shaping stitches to help create the illusion of evergreen boughs.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

The Evergreen Square

Evergreen close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in clary)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

There are two ways of creating decreases for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning decrease, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning decrease. For this pattern, they are each combined with a Yarn Over (yo), as seen in Row 9. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one.

[k2tog, yo]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the k2tog peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Knit the k2tog peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[ssk, yo]: From left to right, worked over 2 pegs: Before working the ssk peg, move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one. E-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: From right to left, worked over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg. Knit the ssk peg, working the 2 loops as one.

The cables in this pattern include both 2 peg twists and 3 peg cross overs.

The twists involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[rt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right. Place the held loop onto the peg on the left. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]: Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle. Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left. Place the held loop onto the peg on the right. With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant. So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right. For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

The cables involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a 3 stitch right cable [2/1RC] (a cable with the sts running to the right), and a 3 stitch left cable [2/1LC] (a cable with the sts running to the left). They are worked as follows:

[2/1RC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.

If working from the R-L: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:
• Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle. (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.

If working from the R-L: Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
If working from the L-R: Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved. Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you! It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above. I promise! :) )

Row 1: p2, k2, p10.
Row 2: p3, k2, p5, k2, p2.
Row 3: k6, p3, k2, p3.
Row 4: p3, k2, p3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 5: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 6: p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, p1, k6.
Row 7: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 8: p1, k6, p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC.
Row 9: k6, p1, k6, p1.
Row 10: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo.
Row 11: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 12: p1, k6, p2, rt2, lt2, p1.
Row 13: p1, k4, p2, k6, p1.
Row 14: p1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p1.
Row 15: p2, k2, p4, k4, p2.
Row 16: k2, yo, k2tog, ssk, yo, p4, k2, p2.
Row 17: p9, k2, p3.
Row 18: p3, k2, p9.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Evergreen angleSet Up Rows

Row 1: p40.
Row 2: k40.
Row 3: p40.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4: k2, p3, *k2, p12, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 5: p5, *k2, p5, repeat from * to end.
Row 6: k2, p1, k6, *p3, k2, p3, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 7: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3, k2, p3, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 8: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 9: p3, k6, p1, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 10: k2, p1, *k6, p1, repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, k6, p1, repeat from * once, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p3.
Row 12: repeat row 10.
Row 13: p3, *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p1, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, p3.
Row 14: k2, *p2, k4, p2, k6, repeat from * once, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 15: p4, *lt2, rt2, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, lt2, rt2, p4.
Row 16: k2, p2, *k4, p2, k6, p2, repeat from * once, k4, p2, k2.
Row 17: p4, *yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p2, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, p2, repeat from * once, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4.
Evergreen front angleRow 18: k2, p3, *k2, p4, k4, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p3, k2.
Row 19: p5, *k2, p4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, p4, repeat from * once, k2, p5.
Row 20: k2, p10, k2, p12, k2, p10, k2.
Row 21: p12, k2, p12, k2, p12.
Rows 22-57: repeat rows 4-21.

Finishing Rows

Row 58: k12, p2, k12, p2, k12.
Row 59: p40.
Row 60: k40.
Row 61: p40.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

Day_7

1 Comment

  • That’s pretty sweet!

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Oct 30, 2015

Stitchology 15 : Raised Circles Stitch

Happy Fall! :D

Last October, our Stitchology column focused on making circles using the Puff Stitch to resemble those rotund symbols of autumn…pumpkins!  I thought it would be fitting to work up another square this year that brings those big orange gourds to mind, but rather than raising the center, we’d raise the outline of the circles—meet the Raised Circles Stitch.  It is an exercise in cable making, chart reading, and row counting…but the results are definitely worth it! This stitch could also be used to simulate candle flames or ornaments for the holidays, or as my daughter exclaimed when she first saw the square: pieces of eight! ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Raised Circles Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in rust)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They are all worked essentially the same, no matter the direction of knitting.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[2/1RC]:  Worked over 3 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
  • Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.
    • If working from the R-L:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
    • If working from the L-R:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:

  • Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
  • Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.
    • If working from the R-L:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
    • If working from the L-R:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! :)  )

Row 1:  k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 2: k16.

Row 3: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 4: k16.

Row 5: p2, k12, p2.

Row 6: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 7: k16.

Row 8: k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k1.

Row 9: k16.

Row 10: k6, p4, k6.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p38.

Row 2: k38.

Row 3: p38.

Row 4: k38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p3, k6, p4, k12, p4, k6, p3.

Row 6:  k4, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: p3, k32, p3.

Row 8: k3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: p3, k32, p3.

Row 10: k3, p2, k12, p4, k12, p2, k3.

Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: k38.

Row 13: p3, *k1, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k1, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 14: k38.

Row 15-60: Repeat Rows 5-14.

Finishing Rows

Row 61: p38.

Row 62: k38.

Row 63: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

1 Comment

  • Beautiful work, Bethany!

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Oct 5, 2015

Stitchology 14 : Corn Stalks Stitch

Corn Stalks Stitch

Around my neck of the woods, seeing acres upon acres of neatly lined rows of tall stalks of corn is not a unique thing.  I thought it would be wonderful to recreate those quintessential scenes of fall onto this month’s Stitchology square.  Utilizing a combination of cables and ribbing, this stitch is full of texture as well as stretch, and the resulting fabric is almost identical from the front to the back!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Corn Stalks Square

Corn Stalks - close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mellow)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

Corn Stalks - top angleThe cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 4 pegs in the correct order. They are all worked exactly the same—as right cross cables (a twist with the sts running to the right) with both knit and purl stitches combined.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[4st-rc/pk]:  Worked over 4 pegs, from right to left (4, 3, 2, 1):

  • Lift the loops from the first 2 pegs of the cable (1 & 2) and place them on the cable needle.
  • Bring your working yarn behind pegs 1 & 2 and purl the stitch on peg 3.
  • Move this stitch (peg 3) over to peg 1 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn.
  • Bring your working yarn behind pegs 2 & 3 and purl the stitch on peg 4.
  • Move this stitch (peg 4) over to peg 2 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn.
  • Lift the first stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 1 and move it to peg 3.  Knit this stitch.
  • Lift the second stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 2 and move it to peg 4.  Knit this stitch.
  • Pull out any slack that may be left in the 4 cable stitches.

 

 

Chart Key Corn Stalks

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Corn Stalks Stitch

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Rows 1-4: repeat the following two row pattern:

a: p3, k3.
b: k3, p3.

Row 5: p1, 4st-rc/pk, k1.

Row 6: k3, p3.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Corn Stalks Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p40.

Row 2: k40.

Row 3: p40.

Corn Stalks - side angleMain Pattern Rows

Row 4-8:  repeat the following two row pattern:

a: k2, *p3, k3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
b: p2, *k3, p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 9: p2, *p1, 4st-rc/pk, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rows 10-57:  Repeat Rows 4-9.

Finishing Rows

Row 58: p40.

Row 59: k40.

Row 60: p40.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

6 Comments

  • Very pretty, Bethany!

  • Thank you so much, Jenny! I’m glad you like it…I’m fairly pleased with how it turned out. :)

  • I just wanted to let you know your new stitch is simply beautiful.

  • Oh, that is so very sweet, Barbara! Thank you! :)

  • would love video tutorial very visual learner THANK YOU.

  • Maybe sometime in the future. ;) There are videos available that do show how to complete a right cross cable on the looms…then you would just need to purl the two stitches that cross over to the right…

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Sep 7, 2015

Stitchology 13 : Zig Zag Eyelet Rib

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib

I’ve been pleased as punch with the way this month’s stitch turned out…so pretty and delicate.  The best part is that it is so very easy to accomplish, with only four rows to repeat…nice!  This stitch is also in the ribbing family, which makes it extremely elastic if you find yourself in need of a lacy design for a hat, socks, or a banded trim.  The body of a sweater worked this way would be absolutely breathtaking! :)  But for now, let’s learn this pretty design while whipping up an afghan square…

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Square

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage aquae)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog]:  Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the k2tog peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg, and the k2tog peg.  Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the k2tog peg.

[ssk, yo]: Work over 2 pegs: Move the loop from the yo peg to the ssk peg. Using the working yarn, e-wrap the ssk peg and the empty yo peg. Knit off the bottom 2 loops as one on the ssk peg.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Stitch

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2.

Row 2: k2, p1, k2, p1.

Row 3: p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2.

Row 4: k2, p1, k2, p1.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Zig Zag Eyelet Rib angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 36 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p36.

Row 2: k36.

Row 3: p36.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k4, *p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 5:  p2, k2, *p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6:  k4, *p1, ssk, yo, p1, k2, repeat from * to  last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7:  Repeat Row 5.

Rows 8-59:  Repeat Rows 4-7.

Finishing Rows

Row 60: k2, p32, k2.

Row 61: p2, k32, p2.

Row 62: k2, p32, k2.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

8 Comments

  • This is perfect. Just the stitch pattern I have been looking for to use to make a winter coat for my Great Dane cross.

    Thanks
    H

  • That’s so great to hear, Heather! I would love to see your poochie’s coat once you finish! :)

  • Super pretty, Bethany! Great work!

  • Aw, thank you, Jenny! :D

  • thank you so much for sharing, so if I follow the pattern, here this will work well with the All-n-one loom? I am still pretty new to this, like new langune sorry for spelling so still it takes me a while to figure this out.

    Sincerely Carolann Adair

  • Yes, Carolann, this pattern should work very well with the All-n-One Loom. :)

  • This is going to look awesome on the socks I am going to make, thank you so much for the inspirtation. Could one of you please do a pattern for socks starting with the toe? I never miss an opportunity to look at this blog. I have tried and almost succeeded on most patterns.lol

  • Oh, this stitch will make beautiful socks! I’m sure there has been sock projects here for toe-up socks, but in the meantime, here is a video tutorial on how to do just that that! :)
    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4aT6e8IK1lU

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Aug 3, 2015

Stitchology 12 : Broken Rib 2×2 Stitch

Broken Rib 2x2 front angle (640x444)

This month’s Stitchology will complete an entire year’s worth of stitch samples! :)  But we’re not done yet!  We will be continuing to explore fun and interesting ways to use new stitches on your looms over the next 12 months as well.  I thought for August it would be nice to work up a stitch that didn’t take too much time away from those busy summer schedules to master.  It’s another one of those stitches that consists of only knits and purls—perfect for a quick knit with loads of texture and possible future uses.  This one is entitled Broken Rib 2×2, because it uses variations on a double ribbing pattern.  This same stitch could also be worked up in a 1×1 or 3×3 ribbing pattern for even more stitch variety!  This stitch is also completely identical from front to back, making it perfect for use on items that will be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Broken Rib 2×2 Square

Broken Rib 2x2

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 4—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Broken Rib 2x2 Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Broken Rib 2x2 Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Broken Rib 2x2 close up

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P38

Row 2:  K38

Row 3:  P38

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  K4, p2, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 5: *P2, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Broken Rib 2x2 angleRows 6-9: Rep Rows 4 & 5.

Row 10:  *K2, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 11:  P4, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Rows 12-15:  Rep Rows 10 & 11.

Rows 16-63:  Rep Rows 4-15.

Finishing Rows

Row 64: K38

Row 65:  P38

Row 66:  K38

Row 67:  P38

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8? x 8? squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

2 Comments

  • Another lovely square, Bethany! Beautiful stitch definition. I really like that color, too.

  • Aww, thank you, Jenny! :D Sometimes the simple stitches come out looking the best, don’t they? :)

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Jul 6, 2015

Stitchology 11 : Flag Stitch

Flag Stitch

Did you all have a fantastic Independence Day Weekend? I couldn’t let this month go by without developing a stitch that at least hinted at a patriotic theme. The Flag Stitch definitely resembles our own stars and stripes, but it is also a wonderfully rhythmic geometric design suitable for pretty much any type of project. Best yet, it is super easy to work up as it consists of only knits and purls—perfect for a quick knit during those hot summer days!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Flag Square

Flag Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Berries)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Set Up Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Flag Stitch Chart

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Flags Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Flag Stitch close up

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 39 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P39

Row 2:  K39

Row 3:  P39

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  K39

Row 5: P2, k35, p2

Flag Stitch front angleRow 6: K4, p7, *k1, p7, rep from * twice, k4.

Row 7: P2, k8, p1, *k7, p1, rep from * twice, k2, p2.

Row 8:  K4, p1, k3, p3, *k1, p1, k3, p3, rep from * twice, k4.

Row 9:  Rep Row 7

Row 10:  Rep Row 8

Row 11:  Rep Row 5.

Row 12:  K39

Row 13:  P39

Row 14:  K39

Row 15:  P39

Row 16-63:  Rep Rows 4-15

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

2 Comments

  • Really fantastic square, Bethany! I love the stitch definition in this one.

  • Oh, thank you, Jenny! I do too! :) I have a secret…this was my second try at a square this month, as the first one just didn’t have the definition I was going for. I’m so glad this one was a success and I didn’t have to try for a third, lol!

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Jun 1, 2015

Stitchology 10 : Waffle Stitch

Waffle Square

Last month we learned how to create the Popcorn Stitch, which has a wonderfully double sided affect with its reverse side filled with interlocking hexagons.  This month we’ll learn a way to create those lovely hexagons on the front of our work!  Of course, you could always simply work the Popcorn Stitch and turn your piece inside-out, but this month’s Waffle Stitch is created specially just for working it as the main stitch, with it’s own gauge and technique. I hope you enjoy! :)

Reverse Side-Waffle Square

Reverse Side-Waffle Square

Similar to the Popcorn Stitch, the Waffle Stitch is really very lovely on the reverse side too!  This makes it perfect for scarves, blankets, and any type of project that could be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Waffle Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in aquae)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round such as for a hat, use the Main Pattern Rows directions, but simply work all stitches in purl, as there will be no need for extra border stitches.  Make sure to also use a number of pegs that is divisible by 4.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of purls inside the Main Pattern Rows, keeping them divisible by 4.  You might also want to increase the number of rows/pegs used for the garter stitch top/sides/bottom to better match the new dimensions of the piece.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviation Key 2

 

Step by Step Instructions for the 8” x 8” square:

Waffle Square front angle (1024x662)

Cast onto your loom using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: k38

Row 2: p38

Row 3: k38

Waffle Stitch cuMain Pattern Rows

Rows 4-9: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a)  p38

b) k2, p34, k2

*Work 1 Waffle Row A:

Working with just pegs 4-36,  and starting at peg 4, lift the loop from the peg and hold between fingers. Stretch the loop upwards and count down 5 purl stitches at the front of the work, starting with the one in your fingers. *You’ll be able to see these sts by looking between the pegs.  Lift the 5th stitch up and over the peg. Replace the held loop. Continue with these same steps every 4th peg to peg 36. Every 4th peg should now have 2 loops, with the 3 pegs in between having only the original loop.  KO all these extra loops.

Waffle Row, Count Down 5 loops...

Waffle Row: Count Down 5 loops…

Waffle Row, Place 5th loop back on peg...

Place 5th loop back on peg, then replace held loop…

Waffle Row, Knit Off 5th stitch.

Knit off 5th loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

.

Rows 10-15:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a) p38

b) k2, p34, k2

*Work 1 Waffle Row B:

Working with just pegs 6-34,  and starting at peg 6, lift the loop from the peg and hold between fingers. Stretch the loop upwards and count down 5 purl stitches at the front of the work, starting with the one in your fingers. *You’ll be able to see these sts by looking between the pegs. Lift the 5th stitch up and over the peg. Replace the held loop. Continue with these same steps every 4th peg to peg 34.  Every 4th peg should now have 2 loops, with the 3 pegs in between having only the original loop.  KO all these extra loops.

Rows 16-69:  Repeat Rows 4-15, including Waffle Rows A and B.

Finishing Rows

Rows 70: p2, k34, p2

Row 71: k2, p34, k2

Row 72: p2, k34, p2

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

2 Comments

  • Such a pretty square :) I love the texture and I also really like the color.

  • Awww…thank you, Jenny! I really like how it came it too. I think it was worth the 2nd square, lol. ;) But, now I’ll have 2 ready for my blanket! The color is one of my favorites, too!

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May 4, 2015

Stitchology 9 : Popcorn Stitch

Popcorn Stitch Square

I have always loved this stitch!  This is actually one of the first of the “special” stitches I learned on the looms about 10 years ago.  It provides a wonderful, lofty texture with such a delicate design, yet is accomplished using only those basic techniques that are learned when first looming a hat!  It’s a terrific way to add some wow factor Popcorn Stitch back sideto any project, without also adding complicated stitches that might slow you down. ;)

The other terrific thing about the Popcorn Stitch is that the back is lovely too!  This makes the stitch perfect for scarves, blankets, and any type of project that could be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Popcorn Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in sakura)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round such as for a hat, use the Main Pattern Rows directions, but simply work all stitches in EW, as there will be no need for extra border stitches.  Make sure to also use an even number of pegs.

Popcorn Stitch close upFor flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of EW’s inside the Main Pattern Rows.  You might also want to increase the number of rows/pegs used for the garter stitch top/sides/bottom to better match the new dimensions of the piece.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

This is what the stitch looks like in a small gauge.  You could make the popcorn shapes more pronounced by increasing the number of pegs skipped in the Popcorn Rows A & B below.

 

Abbreviation Key 2

 

Step by Step Instructions for the 8” x 8” square:

Popcorn Stitch front angle

Cast onto your loom using a total of 32 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p32

Row 2: k32

Row 3: p32

Main Pattern Rows

Rows 4-8: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Popcorn Stitch...count down 4

a)  k2, EW28, k2

b) p2, EW28, p2

*Work Popcorn Row A:

Working with every other peg starting at peg 4,  look to the inside of the loom and count down 4 loops, starting with the loop directly at the back of the peg.  Lift the 4th loop up and over the peg. (This is very similar to the technique used in making the brim of a classic hat.) Continue with these same steps every other peg, to peg 30.  Every even #’d peg between pegs 4 and 30 should now have 2 loops.  KO all the pegs with extra loops.

Row 9-13:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a)  p2, EW28, p2

b) k2, EW28, k2

*Work Popcorn Row B:

Working with every other peg starting at peg 3,  look to the inside of the loom and count down 4 loops, starting with the loop directly at the back of the peg.  Lift the 4th loop up and over the peg. (This is very similar to the technique used in making the brim of a classic hat.) Continue with these same steps every other peg, to peg 29.  Every odd #’d peg between pegs 3 and 29 should now have 2 loops.  KO all the pegs with extra loops.

Rows 14-83:  Repeat Rows 4-13, including Popcorn Rows A & B.

Finishing Rows

Rows 84-86:  repeat set up Rows 1-3.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

9 Comments

  • The “Set up rows” were confusing me. I assume rows 1 and 3 are p32 not p3.

  • You are so right, Mike! Oopsie…I have no idea how those little 2’s got missed, lol. It’s all fixed now, though. Thanks!!! :D

  • Is it possible to expand on the description of the main pattern? I just cannot visualize it for some reason.

  • Hi Bev :)

    I just re-read the Main Pattern Rows and am not really sure how I could expand them…is there something in particular I can help you with?

    Thanks!
    Bethany~

  • I posted a question earlier, I’m not sure where it went so I will ask it again and hopefully find the answer this time. When I was learning to loom knit about 6 months ago the instructional I had showed me to cast on and knit in a counter clockwise direction. Because of a disability this is comfortable for me. I find going in a clockwise direction confusing. That said under standard knitting practices for knitting in the round one would read a pattern all rows from left to right. Will the pattern turn out the same if it is reversed (reading the pattern all rows from right to left) for a counter clockwise knitter?

    I have found that the rest of your instructions on the stitchology very helpful

    Thanks
    Heather

  • Hi Heather :)

    Good question! The answer is possibly not so simple. ;) I can’t answer definitively one way or the other, because it would depend on the pattern being transposed. First of all, I will say that when reading my Stitchology charts, you would read them in a right to left direction. If you are going to be working them in the round, you would still read them from right to left. If the pattern is a completely symmetrical one, then yes, you could read the charts from left to right with no difficulties. I think, though, that it is possible that some of the instructions might get confused if you tried to do this, which is why I say it’s not a universal fix.

    I am a left handed loomer, which means that many times I do not find it comfortable to knit in the directions that patterns state for me to go. In this case, as in the case you are in with the Stitchology patterns, I would simply continue to follow the instructions, but my peg 1 would be my own peg 1, my peg 2 would be my own peg 2…etc. In this way, I simply transpose the instructions in my mind, leaving me free to knit in whichever direction I like. So, if a chart reads from right to left, but I like to go from left to right, I would read the chart the way it was written, but would just place the stitches going the other direction. No changes would be made to the written instructions, so no problems would occur.

    Does this make sense?

  • Hi Beth

    And thank you. Yes it does make sense. I believe what you are saying is essentially that it wont matter if i knit in a counter clockwise direction (left to right) as long as I read the pattern from right to left.

    So to save problems I will have to write out the pattern so as not to get too confused.

    Thanks so much for the help.

    I do have another question if you have the time. Do you know if it is possible to do a K1b “knit one below” on a loom, such as in a beehive Waffle stitch. If so would be willing to do a post on it in a future Stitchology .

    Thanks
    Heather

  • Yes, Heather, you’ve got it! :) I’m glad that my lengthy answer was able to be deciphered, lol. If you can accomplish that, I have no doubts as to your ability in transposing the pattern instructions to any knitting direction you desire! :D

    This is very interesting that you ask about a waffle stitch, as I’m currently working on my own version of this kind of stitch for June. It might not be what you’re thinking of exactly, but I think you’ll like it. As to working a K1b, I believe you would just lift the loop that is lying directly behind the peg that you’ll be working your K1b on (the previous row’s knit stitch) and bring it back up onto the peg. You would then knit those two loops as one. I’m pretty sure this should come out the way you would need. I’ll have to try this myself and see if we can’t do some new stitches using this!

    Thanks, Heather! :)

  • Thank you again

    I will give this a try. I have convinced my son to take some pictures for me of the “samples” that I am making once I get something I like I will send you a picture link.

    Looking forward to the June post.

    Heather

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Apr 6, 2015

Stitchology 8 : Tulip Fields Stitch

*Updated pattern (specifically Row 15) and charts 4/8/15.

Skagit Valley Tulips, Bethany Dailey, 20130411 (1024x737)This month Skagit Valley, WA, a length of lovely farmlands surrounded by both mountains and the northern islands of the Puget Sound… or in other words, where I call home… is blooming with the vibrant colors of hundreds of different varieties of tulips in a display that rivals even those found in Holland!  The brilliant swaths of color across the landscape are truly breathtaking and are the official signal that spring has definitely arrived in Washington.  April’s stitch is in honor of this gorgeous time of year!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Tulip Fields Square

Tulip Fields Square -top angle

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in banane) *Note: Because this pattern requires some definite blocking, a wool yarn is highly recommended. ;)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping!

Special Stitch Instructions

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

There are three ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and a Knit 3 Together (k3tog), a decrease that creates an eyelet on either side.  The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[k2tog, yo]:  Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the k2tog peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[yo, ssk]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the ssk peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[yo, k3tog, yo]: (As seen in Row 17 of the pattern) Worked from right to left. Move the loops from the yo pegs to the k3tog peg.  Carry the WY loosely across the first empty yo peg, then work all 3 loops as 1 on the k3tog peg. Carry the WY loosely across the front of the next empty yo peg and work the next peg in line as the pattern dictates.

k2tog/ssk by itself: Since a k2tog or an ssk are a decreases, in order to keep the same number of pegs being used in a row, there has to be a corresponding yo, but the two don’t necessarily have to be right next to each other.  When the k2tog/ssk and yo are separated by other pegs, you’ll need to set up the stitches before working that part of the row.  Let’s look at Row 7 peg by peg as an example:

“Row 7:  p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3”

Worked from right to left:

  • Pegs 1-3: purl
  • *Move the loop from peg 5 to peg 4.
  • Move the loop from peg 6 to peg 5.
  • Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 4, knit peg 5.
  • Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 6.
  • Pegs 7-9: knit
  • Move the loop from peg 11 to peg 12.
  • Move the loop from peg 10 to peg 11.
  • Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 10, knit peg 11.
  • Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 12.
  • Pegs 13-17: purl
  • Repeat from * to peg 40.
  • Pegs 41-43: purl.

Tulip Stitch Row

 

Chart Key Tulips Stitch

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Tulip Stitch-updated 4-8-15

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Tulip Square-updated 4-8-15

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Tulip Fields Square- side angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 43 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Main Pattern Rows

Row 1:  p43

Row 2:  k43

Row 3:  p43

Row 4:  k1, p4, *k5, p9, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p4, k1

Row 5:  *p4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p3, repeat from * 2 times, p1

Row 6:  k1, p3, *k7, p7, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1

Row 7:  p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3

Row 8:  k1, p2, *k9, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1

Row 9:  *p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, p1, repeat from * to 2 times, p1

Row 10:  k1, p1, *k11, p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1

Row 11:  p1, *k2tog, k3, yo, k3, yo, k3, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 12:  k14, p1, k13, p1, k14

Row 13:  p1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k2, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 14:  k1, *k3, p1, k5, p1, k3, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 15:  p1, *k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 16:  k1. *k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 17:  p1, *k2tog, yo, p3, yo, k3tog, yo, p3, yo, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 18:  k2, *p5, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 19:  p43

Row 20:  k43

Row 21:  p43

Rows 22-57:  repeat Rows 4-21 two more times.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

6 Comments

  • Another beauty, Bethany :) Lovely!

  • Thank you so much, Jenny! I’m so glad you like it! <3

  • Why can’t we print this pattern? Do you expect us to memorize every stitch.???

  • My comment is Why can’t we print out this pattern surly you don’t expect us to memorize it

  • Copy, paste it, then print it.

  • Copy, paste it, then print it. Or highlight it, right click, then click on print

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Mar 2, 2015

Stitchology 7 : Clover Columns Stitch

Clover Columns

May you live a long life,
Full of gladness and health;
With pockets full of gold,
As the least of your wealth.
May the dreams you hold dearest,
Be those which come true;
The kindness you spread,
Keep returning to you.

-Irish Blessing

 

If this doesn’t call to the Irish in you, (at least in spirit, if not in blood, haha!) I don’t know what will.  Delicate swirls and twists that form little four-pointed clovers make up this month’s stitch, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.  IClover Columns clover f it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.  :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Clover Columns Square

Clover Columns close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 13—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Clover Columns Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

*Note: if you tend to be a loose knitter, you might wish to eliminate Rows 1 & 63 to help achieve your 8″ x 8″ square.

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Main Pattern Rows

Clover Columns longRow 1:  p3, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 2:  k2, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to last st, k1.

Row 3:  repeat Row 1.

Row 4:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 5:  p3, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, [lt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2

Rows 7:  repeat Row 5.

Row 8:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 9:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 10:  k2, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 11:  p4, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 12:  k2, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 13:  repeat Row 11.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 14:  k2, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 15:  repeat Row 9.

Row 16:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 17:  repeat Row 5.

Row 18:  repeat Row 6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 5.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Rows 21-60:  repeat Rows 1-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-63:  repeat Rows 1-3.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

4 Comments

  • Beautiful design, Bethany! I love that shade of green, too. Lovely work :)

  • Oh, thank you, Jenny! Cables= cozy goodness, right?? I love this shade of green too! :D

  • B-e-a-utiful!!!!

  • […] 2015~ January: Snowy/Starry Skies Stitch February: Eyelet You Have My Heart Stitch March: Clover Columns Stitch […]

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Feb 2, 2015

Stitchology 6 : Eyelet You Have My Heart

Hearts, front angle

Ah, February… the month for sweethearts of all kinds!  In honor of Valentine’s Day, I thought it might be nice to work up a pattern which, while providing wonderful texture and loft, also liberally sprinkles what is known throughout history as the symbol of love: the Heart.

Heart, tulipThe appealing way the hearts sit directly on top of the set of three eyelets also reminds me of tulips…which is perfect for those who seek the first signs of spring! :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

Eyelet You Have My Heart Square

Hearts, close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Berries)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your eyelets and hearts will not be visible. ;)

To work a s1, k1, psso (in the case of this pattern, a right leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

To work a ssk (a left leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

There are two additional ways of creating eyelets for this particular pattern: the Purl 2 Together (P2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a purl, and the Slip, Slip, Purl (ssp) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a purl.  The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, ssp]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the ssp peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then purl the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[ssp, yo]: Worked from left to right.  Before working the two pegs, move the loop from the yo peg to the ssp peg. Purl the ssp peg, working the two loops as one. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg and work the next peg in line as the pattern dictates.

[yo, P2tog]:  Worked the same as a [yo, ssp], but is worked from left to right.

 

Chart Key Eyelets Hearts

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Eyelets & Hearts Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Eyelets & Hearts Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Hearts, angle

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p37

Row 2:  k37

Row 3:  p37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k37

Row 5:  p2, k4, p1, *k7,  p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k4, p2.

Row 6: *k5, p3, repeat from *, ending with k5.

Rows 7:  p2, k2, p2, [yo, ssp], p1, *k3, p2, [yo, ssp], p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 8: k3, *p1, [ssp, yo], p1, [yo, p2tog], p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 9:  p2, k1, *p7, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 10:  k4, *p2, k1, p2, k3, repeat from * to last sts, k1.

Row 11:  p2, k33, p2.

Row 12:  k37

Row 13:  p2, k1, [yo, ssk], *k1, p1, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 7 sts, k5, p2.

Row 14:  k5, *p1, k1, p1, k5, repeat from * to end.

Row 15:  p2, *[yo, ssk], p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, [yo, ssp], p1.

Hearts Row 16:  k3, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 17:  p3, k1, p1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], *k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 6 sts, k1, p1, k1, p3.

Row 18:  k3, p1, k5, *p1, k1, p1, k5, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 19:  p3, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], *k1, p1, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 20-51:  repeat Rows 4-19.

Row 52-60:  work as Rows 4-12.

Finishing Rows

Row 61:  p37

Row 62:  k37

Row 63:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Hearts, blockingBlock to an 8” x 8” measurement.  This square was blocked quite thoroughly to really help the eyelets open and the stitches pop.  It was gently washed by hand, left to soak for a while, then the excess water was squeezed out by rolling and pressing the square inside a towel.  As you can see by this photo, the extra step of pinning each eyelet open was used and is highly recommended to achieve the best results! ;)

Afghan Notes:

blocks on red smIf you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

9 Comments

  • Another beautiful stitch pattern Bethany! What lovely hearts. Love the title..::snicker:: so sweet! Thanks for all you do.

  • Thank you, Kristen! Glad you are enjoying the column. :D

  • Absolutely beautiful, Bethany! So delicate and just beautiful. Spectacular job!

    Love this column. Would love to find a project for my mom and incorporate this stitch. Maybe a the shrug, when I have time…..hopefully before Mother’s day.

    Question though….on the stitchology page it list I and II. This project is listed as VI. Have I missed a few projects somewhere? Trying to keep up inbetween home projects, LOL! At least in projects on paper if not able to be on my loom

  • I also love the title, Bethany. Your squares are all very lovely :)

  • Thank you, Linda! :) This would make an absolutely gorgeous shrug!

    I think if you click on the Stitchology Column link it generally only shows a total of two posts at a time…but there is a place down at the very bottom of the feed to go to the next page. You should be able to see all the following posts by navigating through the pages. ;)

    Hope that helps!

  • ahhh, thank you bunches, Miss Jenny! <3

  • I have a fine gauge adjustable sock loom and I’m able to do the knit and pearl stitches well.
    But I’m having a lot of trouble doing the flat stitch to turn the heel. I’ve tried doing it also with the CD that came with the loom and I get holes, runs and/or the stitches just don’t look right. Can anyone give me some advise?

    Thanks,
    Cindy

  • Very pretty Bethany! I am a newbee but I am going to try very hard to make this one.
    I have a few questions about the afghan squares:

    Do the squares have to go in a specific order when sewn together? I have seen some other afghan squares pattern that have to be sewn together in a specific order either because of the stretch factor or peg count.

    Secondly, when attaching the blocks together what are the options that you recommend? Kitchener stitch or I think I saw in one of your books a way to make an edging using the 5 peg slider rail . Could this be modified to attach the blocks together?

    Thank you

  • Hi there, Cindy! :)

    I’m so happy to hear that you’ll be working on squares with us! I haven’t thought out a particular order as of yet, mostly because these squares are being invented month by month, lol. Maybe it would be a good idea to work all the squares first, then we’ll evaluate what would be the best option for joining. ;) I wouldn’t recommend the Kitchener for these…maybe just a simple mattress stitch, or a whipstitch. Crocheting the squares together might be a nice option, as well. :)

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Jan 5, 2015

Stitchology 5 : Starry Skies Stitch

Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow!

Snowy/Starry Skies Square-angleThe weather outside is frightful, but we here at KB Chat can enjoy it all from the comfort of our armchairs and our looms!  This month’s stitch represents a flurry of snowflakes, falling from the skies…or whip it up in a pretty blue to escape the cold days of winter with a glimpse of the endless stars of the Milky Way.  This stitch is a super easy one technically, as it consists of only knits and purls—it just takes a bit of attention to keep track of each row’s stitch pattern. ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

Snowy/Starry Skies Square

Snowy/Starry Skies-close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Mochi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

 

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Snowy-Starry Skies Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Snowy-Starry Skies Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Snowy/Starry Skies SquareSet Up Rows

Row 1:  p37

Row 2:  k37

Row 3:  p37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k6, p1, *k7, p1, rep from * twice, k6.

Row 5:  p2, k1, *p1, k5, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, rep from * once, p2.

Row 6:  k4, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, rep from * 3 times, k1.

Rows 7:  p2 *k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k5, p1, rep from * once, k1, p2.

Row 8:  k6, p1, *k7, p1, rep from * twice, k6.

Row 9:  p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k13, p1, k1, p1, k11, p2.

Row 10:  k12, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k11, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4.

Row 11:  p2, k1, *p1, k5, p1, k4, p1, k4, rep from * once, p2.

Row 12:  k3, *p1, k5, p1, k4, p1, k4, rep from * once, k2.

Row 13:  p2, k10, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k11, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2.

Row 14:  k5, *p1, k1, p1, k13, rep from * once.

Row 15:  p2, k4, *p1, k7, rep from * twice, p1, k4 p2.

Snowy/Starry Skies- top angleRow 16:  k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k5, p1, rep from * once, k3

Row 17:  p2, k2, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, rep from * twice, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2.

Row 18:  k3, *p1, k5, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, rep from * once, k2.

Row 19:  p2, k4, *p1, k7, rep from * twice, p1, k4, p2.

Row 20:  *k13, p1, k1, p1, rep from * once, k5.

Row 21:  p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k11, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k10, p2.

Row 22:  k2, *k4, p1, k4, p1, k5, p1, rep from * once, k3.

Row 23:  p2, *k4, p1 k4 p1 k5 p1 rep from * once, k1 p2.

Row 24:  k4 p1 k1 p1, k1, p1, k11, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k12.

Row 25:  p2, k11, p1, k1, p1, k13, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2.

Rows 26-47:  Repeat Main Pattern Rows 4-25.

Rows 48-58:  Repeat Main Pattern Rows 4-14.

Finishing Rows

Row 59:  p37

Row 60:  k37

Row 61:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

blocks on red smIf you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

13 Comments

  • I love this. Could this pattern be knitted as a hat?

  • Oh, I’m so glad you like it, Mary! :)

    You can definitely use this for a hat! If you look up in the pattern notes section, you will find tips for working the stitch in the round.

  • I am working this in the round and following the repeating pattern rows. My question is this:
    Do I repeat rows 1=11?

    Thanks!
    Mary

  • Yes, the repeating rows are 1-11 (of the stitch pattern, not the first garter rows) for working in the round. You would need to follow all 22 rows of the stitch pattern if you were working the stitch as a flat panel. ;)

    Great question! :D

  • Thank you! I had a ‘feeling” that is what I do. On row 4 now. Looooong way to go !

  • Ahhh, you’ll have it done in no time! ;)

  • LOVE this pattern!! Thank you so much for sharing it! Started my first square this afternoon, should have it done tomorrow. You are awesome!

  • I think I am doing this wrong. For knitting this in the round, would the first row be k4, p, k7, p, k3, and the second row p, k5, p, k3, p, k, p, k3? If this is correct, then I need to get froggin’! Yikes!

  • Hi Mary :)

    Your row 1 is correct, but I’m not sure where you are getting your instructions for row 2.

    I have: (Row 2) k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k5, p1

    This is of the stitch chart itself, working from right to left, because in the round you will be working all your stitches in the same direction as the first row.

    Does this help?

  • Yes! I am doing it the right way. Phew!

  • You have put so much work into these beautiful squares. Each one is truly marvelous! Thank you for sharing your talent with us, Bethany!

  • Can I assume that I can work this on the 28″ Board since it is just a flat piece?

  • Yes, you assume correctly. :)

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Dec 1, 2014

Stitchology 4 : Candy Cane Stitch

Happy Holidays!

candy cane stitch 1The time has come to deck the halls and spread good cheer.  What better way can there be for us yarnie enthusiasts than creating a square with rows of candy canes dancing their way across it?  Of course, this stitch will be terrific during all other times of the year as well, as it also resembles fish hooks, or shepherd’s crooks. :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

Candy Cane Square

candy canes up close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Mochi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your candy cane stripes will not be visible. ;)

To work a s1, k1, psso (in the case of this pattern, a right leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

To work a ssk (a left leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

 

Chart Key Candy Cane

Repeating Pattern Rows

Candy Cane Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Candy Cane Stitch Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

candy canes angleSet Up Rows

Row 1:  p37

Row 2:  k37

Row 3:  p37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k37

Row 5:  p2, k2, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], *k3, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, p2.

Row 6: k37

Rows 7:  p2, k1, *[s1, k1, psso, yo], k3, [yo, ssk], k1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, p2.

Row 8: k37

Row 9:  p2, k4, [s1, k1, psso, yo], *k6, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Row 10:  k37

Row 11:  p2, k3, [s1, k1, psso, yo], *k6, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k4, p2.

Row 12:  k37

Row 13:  p2, k2, [s1, k1, psso, yo], *k6, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k5, p2.

Row 14:  k37

Row 15:  p2, k1, *[s1, k1, psso, yo], k6, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.

candy canes long uprightRow 16:  k37

Row 17:  p2, k33, p2

Row 18:  k37

Row 19:  work as Row 5

Row 20:  k37

Row 21:  work as Row 7

Row 22:  k37

Row 23:  p2, k3, [yo, ssk], *k6, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k4, p2.

Row 24:  k37

Row 25:  p2, k4, [yo, ssk], *k6, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Row 26:  k37

Row 27:  p2, k5, [yo, ssk], *k6, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, p2.

Row 28:  k37

Row 29:  p2, *k6, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, p2.

Row 30:  k37

Row 31:  p2, k33, p2

Rows 32-58:  Repeat Rows 4-30.

Finishing Rows

Row 59:  p37

Row 60:  k37

Row 61:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

blocks on red smIf you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

15 Comments

  • This is so , really beautiful …. I want to try this one. <3

  • […] For The Candy Cane Stitch Pattern: Click HERE […]

  • This is a great stitch pattern for a kids table runner ! The candy canes look like they’re line dancing. Thank YOU Bethany I love your work. Always fun – always makes me smile :)

    denise

  • Bethany, i was wondering if you could post a picture of the other 12 squares you are going to be sharing with us. by knowing what squares there are we could determine what color yarns to use. you don’t have to give directions for them just pictures of them. i am assuming they are christmas squares because of candy canes. thanks jean

  • Hi Jean :)

    There have been four squares featured to date. They are listed under Stitchology Column. As for photos of the next 8 (at least) squares, I am afraid there are none as yet. These are worked on one month ahead of time, so the development of the future squares has not yet been hashed out. ;) They are definitely not all holiday stitches, but will include fun and timely patterns that will be applicable to whatever season we are in. As for yarn choices, I would simply choose a favorite color combo in a worsted weight wool, which can be easily blocked to show off whatever stitches we will be making, and to help with keeping the blocks at a constant size. To choose how many colors to employ, refer to the common sizes of afghans listed at the bottom of each Stitchology post to decide how many colors would work best with your chosen blanket size. :)

  • Thank you so much, Denise! I’m happy you’ve been having fun with this series! *THAT* makes me smile. :D

  • Ooh, I love this site, just now seeing it, want to read more when I can read on my tablet (bigger) glad I found it. :)

  • I am lefthanded and go in the counter clockwise direction on plain socks. Please help will I be able to make this going lefthanded? Do I just reverse the chart? I am at a loss to how the stitches will come out HELP!!!

  • The chart doesn’t truly have direction, it is the same when cut in half, so you can use the same chart for Left-handed knitting

  • Patti and I have been chatting privately about her question, so I thought I’d type up some of my answers to her about looming left handed so that other South Paws can benefit. :)

    “Hi :) I am also left handed! The thing about this pattern is that it is loomed as a flat panel, so you will be going both directions. ;) Because of this, you should be able to follow the pattern as written.

    “I have quite a few videos too…all left handed (just so you know) ;) go to gettinitpegged.com and you will find them on the Twisted Stitches page. Also, my youtube channel button is there.

    “So, let me tell you what I do for reading patterns. If it is a pattern that says to go in a particular direction, I will weigh whether or not it would be best to just loom it as written, or work opposite of the instructions. Read the whole pattern through to make your decision. If it’s not a big deal, then I simply work in the direction I would prefer, following the instructions as if I were looming exactly the way the pattern says. If the instructions say to loom this: Arrow Lace pattern (k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1) I would work as written, simply changing the k2tog and the ssk around, since those are stitches which slant a particular way. Any other pattern, I would just loom it as written, even though I would be looming in the opposite direction. It will end up being a mirror image of the original, but with most patterns that is not an issue at all. With cable patterns, I always work them in the direction it was originally written, since the directions for cable knitting are so specific. “

  • Hi Bethany! Beautiful pattern. What was the gauge of your project? Might just have to add some of these as Christmas gifts this year.

    Kelly

  • Hi Kelly :)

    The gauge of this project measures 5 stitches and 7.5 rows per square inch. Hope that helps get you on your way to those Christmas gifties!

  • I would love to make this is there anyway you can do a small video to show us thanks I learn better by seeing some of it thanks

  • Love this soooo much. I haven’t done these techniques but I am going to give it a try on a small practice swatch. I can totally see this pattern as a lovely Christmas scarf or the table runner is an excellent idea. You are so creative and I appreciate how organized your post are…including Isela’s technique cards is wonderful. Thank you Bethany and Isela

  • I’m having a great time with this column series, and I think this site is a great resource. Thanks, Bethany & all KB Chat contributors! Can’t wait for future posts. :)

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Nov 3, 2014

Stitchology 3 : Chain Lace Stitch (flat panel)

CLS Square

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to get your fingers flying with a stitch that lends itself perfectly for holiday gifts!  You may have already heard of the Chain Lace Stitch, which I developed way back in the spring of 2012 as an introductory cowl pattern for the KB All-n-One Loom.  Since that time, I’ve received several requests to demonstrate how to work the stitch as a flat panel, rather than in the round.  I thought this month would be the perfect time to do this, as the Chain Lace Stitch would make a simply gorgeous scarf for holiday gift giving!  The pattern below is for our customary 8” x 8” square, but you can easily modify the pattern for creating pieces of a larger size.  Let the holiday looming commence! :D

 

Chain Lace Stitch worked as a Flat Panel

CLS close up

Items Needed:

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 55 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch has also been worked in the round to great effect!  You can find two of these projects in the All-n-One Pattern Book: the Daytimer Bag and the Market Hat (as a way to weave the belt around the brim). To work this pattern in the round for a cowl, bag, or hat, see the video here.

For flat pieces of a longer size, begin with the Set Up Rows (working more as necessary for a wider border), then simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length desired. You will also want to match the final rows to the number of Set Up Rows.

This pattern is worked with CLS sections worked over 4 peg repeats, with border sections of 4 pegs on either side. For creating a flat piece of a wider size, increase the CLS section by increments of 4, and the border sections as desired.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

You may notice that the number of vertical border rows are greater than the number of stitches required to make the chains.  This is intentional.  The bordering garter stitch has a smaller gauge than the e-wrapped chain. The differing number of rows and chain stitches make for an even height in both.

Pattern Abbreviations:

Abbreviation Key

Grab your easy chair and a cuppa’ your favorite brew and we’ll go over, step-by-step, how to create the Chain Lace Stitch as a Flat Panel in this brand new Tutorial Video: (*See below for pattern’s complete written instructions)

Repeating Pattern Rows

There are two separate pattern rows which will be repeated throughout the Main Pattern Rows of the stitch. They are as follows:

CLS close up lgCLS Row One (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1:  move loop to peg 2, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 2:  EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 1 to peg 2 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 1.  Peg 1 will now be empty.

Peg 3:  move loop to peg 4

Peg 4:  EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

CLS Row Two (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1: move loop to peg 2

Peg 2: EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Peg 3: move loop to peg 4, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 4: EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 3 to peg 4 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 3.  Peg 3 will now be empty.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from right to left, using a total of 28 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Main Pattern Rows

CLS front angle

Repeat the following 16 row pattern 2 times, for a total of 38 rows for your square (Some of these rows will require several steps to complete one row.):

Row 1:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Work CLS Row One of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 24,
  • -Move peg 24’s loop to peg 23,
  • -EW peg 24 5 times,
  • -Knit pegs 25-28,
  • -* Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 1 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

Row 2:

  • -Purl pegs 28-22,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 21 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 20,
  • -HHCO peg 19,
  • -Purl peg 18,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Row 3:  k28

Row 4:  p28

Row 5:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Move loop from peg 4 to peg 3,
  • -EW peg 4 5 times.
  • -EW peg 5 and KO,
  • -Move the top EW from peg 4 to peg 5 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 4.  Peg 4 will now be empty,
  • -Move top loop from peg 3 back to peg 4,
  • -CLS Row Two of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 23,
  • -Move the loop from peg 24 to peg 25
  • -EW  peg 24 5 times,
  • -KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 25,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -*Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 5 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

CLS angleRow 6:

  • -Purl pegs 28-23,
  • -* HHCO to peg 22,
  • -Purl peg 21,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 20 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 19,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Rows 7-10:  Repeat Rows 3 & 4, then 1 & 2 of Main Pattern Rows.

Rows 11-16: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Repeat the previous 16 row pattern once more to complete the square.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

3 Comments

  • Beautiful work, Bethany!

  • In the Loom Knitting Book I saw your stunning purse using this stitch. This stitch really popped with the use of the contrasting color liner. I am wanting to make my square with a seperate thin panel in the back . I was planning on making the panel out of sports weight yarn (so it won’t be so bulky) using the stockinette stitch and sewing the panel and the square together when I connect the afghan squares together. The question I have is : do I have to be concerned with the stockinette curling or do you think that sewing the panel to the square will mitigate the curl. Thank you

  • Hi Cindy :) Sorry for the delay in answering…this last week has been busy! :P

    I am so glad you said that about the layer of knitting underneath in a contrasting color…just what I was thinking could be done too! I don’t think you have to worry about the stockinette rolling, because the piece should stabilize once the two are stitched together. Also, I would recommend using a wool yarn so it can be blocked completely. This will also help with that rolling issue. ;)

    Thanks so much for your nice compliment about the Chain Lace Daytimer! It’s definitely a pretty bag and one of my favorites. Happy Looming!

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Oct 7, 2014

Stitchology 2 : Puff Stitch

Happy Autumn!  This is my absolute favorite time of year.  I simply can’t get enough of it!  Puff Stitch SquareI am thrilled by simple things like hay mazes, big orange pumpkins in a field, chilly mornings, and candy corn.  It’s a season that is full of reasons to celebrate…of course it makes it all the better that my birthday is also in October, lol. ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to celebrate the Fall Season by introducing the Puff Stitch, which greatly resembles pumpkins in a field, all connected by trailing vines.  Of course, this stitch will be terrific during all other times of the year, as well. It employs a really marvelous way to create elongated knit stitches on our looms, which result in all those lovely little puffs.

 

Puff Stitch Square

Puff Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Lion Wool in Pumpkin)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to a cozy hat, or a baby blanket.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The elongated knit stitch, notated in the pattern as k², is created using the following method (the row numbers are as you would find the steps in the Puff Stitch Square pattern further below):

*to see a photo enlarged, just click to open, then click to open again.


Knitting Chart Key k2

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Square Chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Stitch Chart

Row 1:  p6, k²3, p1

Rows 2:  k²5, p5

Row 3:  p5, k²5

Row 4:  k²5, p5

Rows 5:  p5, k²5

Row 6:  k²5, p5

Rows 7 & 8:  p6, k²3, p1

Row 9:  k²5, p5

Row 10:  p5, k²5

Row 11:  k²5, p5

Row 12:  p5, k²5

Row 13:  k²5, p5

Row 14:  p6, k²3, p1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 32 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k32

Row b: p32

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 14 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 42 rows:

Puff Stitch Square 3D Row 1:  p1, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 2:  p1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 3:  p1, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 4:  p1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 5:  p1, work Row 5 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 6:  p1, work Row 6 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Rows 7 & 8:  p1, work Row 7 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 9:  p1, work Row 9 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 10:  p1, work Row 10 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 11:  p1, work Row 11 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 12:  p1, work Row 12 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  p1, work Row 13 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 14:  p1, work Row 14 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Finishing Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: p32

Row b: k32

Puff Stitch Square-angleBind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  If you’d like to give your puffs more of a 3D affect, you can carefully place small balls of plastic wrap under each little puff during the pinning process of the blocking. I found that Glad Cling Wrap worked really well for this as it has a bit of stick to it, which helped the balls stay in place.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

17 Comments

  • i sure hope you will do a video on this.puff stitch square. Personally, I learn better by watching it actually being done.. It’s so pretty

  • Hi Jen :) I’m not sure if there will be a video in the next few days, but possibly in the next few weeks. ;) I really think that this stitch is so easy that you could definitely get it by following each of the tutorial photos step by step. Build your loom knitting skills by just diving in and giving it a try…I bet you’ll be surprised at how quick and easy it is to accomplish! :D

  • I was wondering how you do row 14 on the top of the puff stitch.

  • Hi Jean :)

    You just work it as the chart states, working normal purls in the spots at the previous elongated knits, and start over again with new elongated knits in the places where the new puffs begin. You’ll be purling with the the three elongated stitches as you would usually purl…there will just be a little extra yarn there to purl with. ;)

  • Your puff square is fabulous, Bethany! Great work!

  • Thank you for the great instructions and the pictures were most helpful. It is an easy stitch. I have senior moments so I got extra practice lol. It reminds me of polka dots and I could see this as a scarf with 60’s retro pink, orange, and white. Thanks again.

  • Oh, that would be really cute, Cindy! The first swatch I made on this was created with a different yarn of a more reddish color and all of my family *separately* said this stitch looked like “Meatballs in Sauce!” Lol. I like pumpkins, puffs, and polka dots much better. ;)

  • I would love to see a video on this especially for the elongated knit. Thanks

  • Thank you for teaching these stitches which I am always looking for something new and different to put together. I am making a hat on the new hat loom unfortunately I am not using all the pegs. I am using the 42 pegs, double strand yard. Can I incorporate this stitch on top of my brim?

  • Hi Bethany – I will definitely share this on my page, just the pictures of course with links back here to the pattern.
    Beautiful. You, my Loomy sister are blessed !
    denise

  • […] is the second stitch in a series the Knittingboardchat.com blog calls Stitchlogy. I love the look you get with this technique. I can’t help but think of […]

  • Hi Teresa! :) I don’t see why you couldn’t incorporate this stitch on your hat…I would love to see photos of how it turns out!

    Thank you so much, Denise! :) Glad you are enjoying the new stitches.

  • can I ask if you are wrapping your knit stitches or if they are flat knitted?

  • This is not ewrapped.

  • Is there going to be a video on this I have been waiting for one Bethany indicating there might be one in the next few weeks Is there going to be one
    Thanks

  • is there a video on how to do the elongated knit stitch on the loom? The images just are not enough to explain how it it is done. I am a visual hands on learner..

  • Not as yet, Teresa…life has been just a little too hectic lately. ;)

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Sep 1, 2014

Stitchology 1 : Herringbone Stitch

Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts

Herringbone Square angleHi!  My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you!  In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading

First up is the Herringbone Stitch.  This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls.  The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern.  To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.

Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:

Herringbone Stitch-chart

When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.

Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left?  This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.

The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count.  As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart.  Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.

By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying.  For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key.  Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations.  For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.

The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl.  Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit.  Where you spot a dot, you will purl.  It’s as simple as that! :)

Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?

The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg Notionsmarkers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them.  These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches.  I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting.   In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.

Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter.  This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row.  However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.

Herringbone Stitch Square

Herringbone Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals!  Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Herringbone Square-chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Herringbone Stitch-chart

Row 1:  k3, p2, k1, p2, k2

Row 2:  k1, p2, k3, p2, k2

Row 3:  k1, p2, k5, p2

Row 4:  p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k37

Row b: p37

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:

Row 1:  k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 2:  p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Row 3:  k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4:  p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Finishing Rows

Herringbone SquareRow a:  k3, work Row 1 of  repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row b:  p37

Row c:  k37

Row d:  p37

Row e: k37

Row f:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

19 Comments

  • Bethany, it looks great! I would like to make a scarf with this pattern.
    Thanks a lot!

  • Thanks Bethany for doing this very much appreciated

  • I love this stitch. I have to wait until after I go to the craft fair in October but I can’t wait to see all the stitches and make some of these squares. Thank you!! :)

  • Congratulations on your new column Bethany.
    Look forward to seeing more Stitchology

  • Thank you. I love this pattern.

  • This is wonderful…. can’t wait to see more!!!

  • Bethany, Congratulations to you and I guess to all of us who follow you.
    This is exciting! I love this stitch and look forward to learning more
    techniques and stitches. Hurray!

  • Always glad to see Bethany’s patterns. You’ll make a great addition to the blog! (c;

  • Congratulations, again, Bethany! This is a wonderful article and lesson. Thank you! Although I have done this before you have made it much easier for me to break down the chart and pattern.I really have to work to get back to my looming. I also think I am going to have to start another notebook for your columns!! Well done!! Looking forward to your future articles!!

  • Great article, Bethany! And the Herringbone sampler looks fabulous! I’m looking forward to seeing the next stitch pattern.

  • If I wanted to do a hat on a round loom, would I have to change any of the instructions? I’m new at this.

  • Hi Deena :)

    In order to make a hat using these instructions, you would first of all be working in the round in a clockwise direction. This would change the way you would read the chart to every row starting from the right to the left, rather than alternating directions.

    Also, you would need to use only the 10 peg repeating stitch pattern chart, rather than the square pattern chart, because you wouldn’t need the borders of garter stitch.

    Because the stitch pattern uses 10 pegs, your hat would need to be knit using a total number of pegs divisible by 10…ei: 30, 50, 70, etc.

    Hope this helps! I’d love to see a photo of your hat when you’re all done! :)

  • Thanks for the instructions, Bethany! That helps tremendously!

  • Can I use the cable cast on method or will this make it more difficult to stitch my finished panels together?
    Thank you for the expert explanation of charts and including both charts and written directions. I am looking forward to looming along/ learning along with you thru all the panels. I am starting this weekend, as soon as my daughter returns my loom! Hum.. maybe I’ll get her one for Christmas. Thanks for taking the time.

  • Hi Cindy! :)

    The Cable Cast On is a bit loose and lacy, and also might be a tad different than your bind off, which will always create a bit of a difficulty when attempting to create true squares. If you are using the mattress stitch to seam the squares together, it might not matter, except that you would end up with looser stitches on the back sides of the seams. ;) Having said all that, my favorite cast on, and on the one that most matches the Basic BO is the Chain CO, sometimes referred to as the Crochet CO.

    I am so happy you’ll be looming along with us! :D

  • I haven’t loomed much and never from a chart. Do I slip the first stitch of every row after cast on? If yes, and the chart has that first stitch noted as a knit stitch, does the slip stitch count as a knit? Would the start of row 8 be slip, knit, knit, purl, purl? Sorry but I won’t learn if I don’t ask. Thanks

  • Don’t be sorry! It’s a good question. :)

    Nope…no slip stitches at all. Just do what each square on the chart tells you to do. When you’re making an item to be seamed together with other items, it’s usually better to not slip the first stitch of every row. ;)

  • Thank you for helping me with my slip stitch question Bethany. I am 7 rows from completion of my square. My gauge is a little less but I figured as long as all my squares are the same number of stitches and rows it will work. I’ll just make more squares if necessary.

    My question is, can I use the bind off method that is done on the knitting board as opposed to the crochet hook bind off? If I remember correctly, Isela had a simple on the board bind off. I have done the one they teach on the KB tutorial site but mine always ends up to tight.

    Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to the next square.

  • Hi Cindy! You’re very welcome for the slip stitch tips. :)

    As for the bind off, I like to use the Basic Bind Off, which is I believe, the one that Isela demonstrates. I feel it matches best with the Chain Cast On and it creates a really nice edge, without any pulling on the panel.

    Yay for square making! I’m excited you’re looming along! As for gauge, some of the squares will use a different number of pegs and rows, due to the differences in the stitch style itself, but as long as you follow exactly, your squares should all match, even if they’re not 8″ X 8″. ;) I know the square for October uses fewer pegs and rows, as it’s a looser kind of stitch.

    Talk with you soon!
    Bethany~

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