Browsing articles in "Shawls/Shrugs"
Sep 19, 2014

Vintage Wrap

VintageWrapOpen2600

By Denise Layman

When my mother gave me this yarn from Carodan Farms a few years ago I had no idea what to do with it. That was until I found a 123 year old knitting loom on E-bay! It was an awesome find. Then I found the book that goes with it: Stewart’s Manual of Crochet Point Loopation. The stitch used for this wrap is from this 123 year old loom knitting manual, and is a perfect match for the yarn! Loom knitting has a bit of a lost history, so I am trying to bring back some stitches loom knitters used in the past. With this versatile pattern give this old stitch new life in a modern style garment or you can wear it like the loom knitters of the 1880’s might have.  So enjoy working this up and wearing a little bit of loom knitting history!

MaterialsVintagewrapwrapped600

Knitting Loom: Adjustable Hat Loom in Large gauge setting, 16 pegs.

Yarn:  approx. 400 yards of worsted weight wool yarn.  (It is especially important to use a wool or other yarn that has some ‘grab’ to it. This pattern is perfect for hand spun wool, it will not work well with acrylic or other yarns unless they have a brushed  finish  to them)  Two skeins of Carodan Farm worsted weight yarn in the color Bracken were used in the sample.  

Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting tool.

Gauge: Gauge is not so important in this pattern.

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is written so that you are working in a clockwise direction around the loom. So the beginning of your row will be on the right, and you will work your way left as you wrap.

The spread stitch is worked using two pegs, each stitch is worked one at a time over the two pegs as explained in the pattern below.

The ‘wrong side’ of your piece while working it on the loom will end up being the ‘right side’ of your finished wrap.

The spread stitch can be used in other applications, but it is definitely a large gauge stitch, it does not work well with anything but a large gauge loom.

Instructions

Cast on/set up:

 To set up for this stitch:

  1. Make a slip knot and place it on the 1st peg. [The peg to the left of your holding peg. (If working with a straight rake the sixth peg from the left side of your rake) (you will need the pegs on the right to increase))].
  2. Wrap working yarn around the 1st peg, 10 times. Peg 1 should have 11 loops.
  3. Take working yarn to 2nd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  4. Go to 3rd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  5. Go to 4th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  6. Go to 5th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  7. The 6th peg will be wrapped only once. (This will be peg A as seen below):

Vintage Wrap1 vintage wrap2

Spread Stitch:

The stitch is worked over two pegs. We will call them A and B.

Peg A is the peg on the left and peg B is the peg on the right.

Peg B will have an odd amount of loops, in this case 11.

Peg A will have one loop, with the working yarn coming from the front between pegs A and B, towards the back of peg B.

  1.  Bring the working yarn around and in back of peg B in the opposite direction (clockwise around the peg) and wrap around it once.

 

  1. Lift the top 3 stitches up and over that wrap.(They can be lifted all at once or one at a time, it makes no difference)

vintage wrap3

 

 

  1. Take the working yarn and e-wrap around peg A and knit the bottom loop over.  (You will see that you are essentially making repeated figure 8’s around these two pegs.)

vintage wrap4

 

 

Repeat these three steps until there is only one loop left on peg B.

Then shift to the right. Peg B will now be peg A, and the next peg to the right will be peg B.

Work these two pegs as above, and continue until you have worked all the way back to the beginning of your row.

There will then be 1 loop on every peg, so wrap 10 times around each peg for a total of 11 wraps, an again once around the last peg on the left and repeat.

NOTE: after the first row you will have 2 wraps on the end peg on the left when you set up the row. Before starting the spread stitch knit over that stitch so that only one loop remains.

Begin Increase section: VintageWrapclose600

To increase you will simply ‘cast on’ and extra stitch by making 11 wraps on the empty peg just to the right of the beginning of your row before wrapping the others. The working yarn will be wrapped around this peg in a clockwise manner, once you have all 11 wraps bring the working yarn between the first two pegs toward the inside of the loom and wrap the remaining stitches in the row as normal.

Increase the piece by one ‘stitch’ every other row until you have a total of 15  stitches + the peg that has a single wrap on the left end of the row for a total of  16  pegs in use.

Work even until your wrap is half the desired total length, then begin to decrease as described below.

Decrease section:

Decreases are made on the right end of the piece where the increases were made. A decrease, like the increases, is made after the entire row has been worked and there is one loop left on each peg.

To decrease: simply lift the loop on the right most peg, and move it over to the left. This loop will be considered wrap #2 on this peg so you will wrap 9 more times around the peg to make a total of 11.

Wrap and knit with the spread stitch as above, decreasing in this manner every other row until you are back down to 6 pegs.

At that point decrease by one stitch every row until there are only two pegs left.

Work that last row and when there is only one loop on each peg lift the loop from the left peg over and place it on the peg on the right.

Lift the bottom loop over the top one and knit off.

If making a Fichu, or open shoulder wrap, cut your working yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and pull the tail through the last loop remaining and remove it from the loom.

If you are finishing this as a poncho, or ‘bow tie’ style wrap then leave a tail about 3-4 yards long for seaming, and pull it through the loop to secure, and remove it from the loom.

Finishing:VintageFlying600

Note: Remember as you finish this piece what was the ‘wrong side’ or back when you were knitting, is going to be the ‘right side’ or front when you are finished with the garment.

For shawl/simple wrap or fichu wrap.

(This is most likely how loom knitters in the 1880’s may have used this stitch pattern in a garment.)

Simply weave in the ends and block as desired.

For re-enactors you may wish to knit a ‘slide’ (directions below) to hold the wrap together in the center front at the neckline.

To make a cross over style fichu, simply add a hook and eye or other closure on the ends of the wrap, place the widest part of the wrap across your shoulders, cross it in the front and secure the ends at the center lower back with the closure.

 Poncho/bow tie style wrap:

To make a poncho or bow tie style wrap you will need to seam the piece in a spiral. Lay the piece out on a table and  basically roll it up starting with one end matching up the edges as you go work with the piece until you have a ‘roll’ that will be wide enough to go around your shoulders. You will want to make this a little looser for the poncho, and a little on the snug side for the bow tie style wrap.

To seam, use the yarn tail you left at cast off and run the working yarn through the spread stitches at the edge of the garment alternating back and forth between the two edges being joined.

Once you have the piece joined try it on and adjust the seam for flexibility as needed. Then trim and weave in the ends.

Slide piece for Fichu, or Bow Tie style wrap:

To make a ‘slide’ to gather the center of your bow tie wrap, simply take some of the yarn (or a contrasting yarn if desired) and make a strip about 2 inches wide on your loom in stockinet stitch. Make this piece as long as you desire, or need to wrap around and gather wrap, or secure the wrap in the center and cast off.

For a Fichu slide, simply seam the cast on and cast off end of this piece to create a loop.

For the Bow Tie style wrap, wrap the ‘slide around the part of the wrap that you wish to gather and seam the ends.

You may wish to run a few stitches through the wrap itself to secure the ‘slide’ in place. Weave in the ends and enjoy!

3 Comments

  • So pretty! It’s so very interesting how it resembles the Chain Lace Stitch…like its I-Cord cousin, lol! Love that it’s such an old stitch, too! It definitely makes a lovely shawl. :)

  • can anyone tell me what the 3 loop bind off is?

  • Love this wrap! Fun to see it featured again. And the photos are fabulous!

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Sep 12, 2014

Mystic Shawl- Double knit

mysticshawlJust enough warmth – cover the shoulders and back with this beautiful shawl.  Knit in Open Braid Stitch with soft, random stripes, and knit in 3 easy pieces. Great for beginner to advanced knitters. One size will fit most.  48” from back tip to front edges.

Needed:

Loom: 28” Knitting Board + ext, or original 28″ Knitting Board

Notions: Knit Hook, Crochet hook and darning needle

Yarn: Worsted weight roving yarn, 260 yds per skein. green=(5) skeins  blue=(1) skein

Sides of this shawl are rectangular.  The center back is knit in a square shape that joins the front with shoulder seams, and falls to point in back.

Long Front Sides:  (knit 2)

Cast On (56) stitches with green yarn.  Lay anchor yarn. See box for review of Open Braid Stitch.

With each color change, we will cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color

Knit (12) rows in green.

Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut green and knot.

Knit (2) rows in blue.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit (20) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (6) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit(10) rows.

Bind Off board.

Bind Off at anchor yarn.

Knit the 2nd piece of Long Front Side

Square Back Piece:

Cast On (64) Stitches in Green.

Lay anchor yarn.

Knit (8) rows in green.

 

Open Braid Stitch:

Weave yarn around needle #1 on top board, down to needle #4 on bottom board. (closest to knitter). Weave every other needle to end.  End stitches will be consecutive.  Return to cover all needles skipped.  Hook over all.

Tie in Blue.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Decrease (1) stitch at beginning of each row for (8) rows.

After first decrease, start row on needles #2 and #5.  Use this row start on every other row.  In other words, for these (8) decrease rows, start row 1,3,5,7 on needles #2 and #5.  The other rows, start on the usual #1 and #4.  This adjustment will keep the Open Braid in correct sequence.

Bind Off of board and Anchor yarn.

Finishing:

Sew one short end of Front piece to Back matching to decrease edge.

Sew 2nd side of Front to Back matching the other side of decrease edge.

The decrease corner of back is at the back of neck.

 

Optional:  You may choose to add fringe to the front bottom edges.  You may also want to add a hidden snap at front neckline to secure the shawl.  The shape of the shawl stays put on your shoulders and our sample does not have a fastener.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl

During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

LH9A5457cropKnitting loom: All-n-One Loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.

 

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.

sts=stitches.

Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Meadowbrook-chart

Divider

Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 

 

19 Comments

  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Does K2tog and Ssk mean exactly the same thing? They both say knit two stitches together as one stitch.

  • I wish you would make a video tutorial. This is a very advanced pattern and at the risk of sounding like a dingbat, it’s just very complicated. I am a tactile learner and would very much benefit from a video showing how to do the stitches. I am new to looming and don’t even know how to read the chart above. What does each symbol represent? I have no clue.

  • Oh, duh, I now see the key at the bottom of the chart. I still would really do better with a video tutorial. Thanks!! These shawls are gorgeous!!

  • Mary, the k2tog leans to the right, the ssk leans to the left. They are done a little differently, both over two pegs, going from Right to Left, peg 1 on the right peg 2 on the left. k2tog-move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both loops as one loop. ssk-move stitch from peg 2 over to peg 1, knit peg 1 treating both loops on peg as one loop, now move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.

  • Is there a way to make this wider than 18″? I like this stitch pattern but would like to see if it can be made between 18 & 24 inches wide.

  • Sherry, I believe I missed a peg there–I think Step 1 should read as follows: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

  • Could you please give more details on row 7?

  • Jennifer, on Row 7 of the Meadowbrook Shawl? From the chart?

  • Yes,for the Meadowbrook Shawl, like you did for row 1. I’m sure it’s not that complicated for most, but I can’t figure out what the exact steps would be. I’m mainly unclear on the k2tog and ssk with the yo on either side. For the k2tog, the basic instructions say to move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2, but the detailed instructions for row 1 say to move the loop on peg 2 to peg 1. I realize the peg 2 loop goes under the peg 1 loop resulting in basically the same outcome, but because of the difference in the two instructions I’m not sure if, on row 7, the loop on peg 11 gets moved to peg 10 under the existing loop or if peg 10 loop gets moved to peg 11. Same with the ssk on pegs 4 & 5.

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May 9, 2014

Anwell Capelet

Anwell Capelet 1

A little capelet to keep the chill away. Worked in short-rows to create a semi-circular shape at the back. 

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, use two pegs as one peg to create a large gauge knitting loom with at least 30 pegs (60 total) for child, 40 (80 total) for adult.

Both sizes can also be worked on the new ADJUSTABLE HAT LOOM, set at large gauge, using 30 pegs for child, and 40 pegs for the adult size. 

Yarn: 200 (600) grams of Bulky Weight yarn. Rowan Big Wool was used in sample, 2 skeins. (Malabrigo Chunky was used in adult sample).

Notions: knitting tool, 1 inch button, 1 set of snap button.

Gauge: 11 stitches and 18 rows=4 inches in stockinette stitch (Remember to use 2 pegs as one on the All-n-One Knitting loom).
Measurements: 25 (from side to side) x 14 (back of neck to edge) inches.

Fits: 3-5 years old (adult)

Abbreviations
k: knit
p:purl
WT: wrap & turn
sts: stitches
rep:repeat
Pattern note: Instructions within () pertain to adult size

DIRECTIONSAnwell Capelet

Cast on 30 (40) stitches with crochet cast on method (remember that you are using 2 pegs as one on the knitting loom, so for the child size, you will be using 60 pegs total; adult 40 pegs).
Create the ribbing edge as follows:
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Repeat last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Wedge instructions

Row 1: k to the end of row
Row 2: Sl1, k26 (k36), WT
Row 3: k27 (k37)
Row 4: Sl1, k23 (k33), WT
Row 5: k24 (k34)
Row 6: Sl1, k20 (k30), WT
Row 7: k21 (k31)
Row 8: Sl1, k17 (k27), WT
Row 9: k18 (k28)
Row 10: Sl1, k14 (k24), WT
Row 11: k15 (k25)
Row 12: Sl1, k11 (k21), WT
Row 13: k12 (k22)
Row 14: Sl1, k8 (k18), WT
Row 15: k9 (k19)
Row 16: Sl1, k5 (k15), WT
Row 17: k6 (k16)
Adult size:
Row 18: Sl1, k12, WT
Row 19: k13
Row 20: Sl1, k9, WT
Row 21: k10

All sizes:
Next row: Sl1, p to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way
Next row: k to the end of row

One wedge completed.

Child size: work 9 wedges.
Adult size: work 13 wedges.

Last wedge: rep Rows 2-17 (2-21).
Next row: Sl1, k to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way.
Next row: knit to the end of row.

Create ribbing edge as follows:

Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Cast on 6 stitches at the beginning of next row. (Adult size: please see Adding Pegs to a Fixed peg loom video)
Next: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.
Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.
Rep last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Bind off with basic bind off method.
Assembly
Seam the collar edge to the body of the capelet and to the other edge of the ribbing edge. Steam block.

Decoration: attach the 1 inch button on the right side of the ribbed collar, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. Secure a snap button on the wrong side of the collar, again, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. ?

 

 

 

8 Comments

  • This is so cute. Can’t wait to make it.

  • Thank you, Isela, for this adorable pattern that my granddaughter will love! If you recommend an AIO loom and are wrapping it in such a way that it mimics a large-gauge loom, is it safe to assume that if I have a large-gauge loom with a sufficient number of pegs that I could use that instead? I don’t have the AIO.

    Thanks again!

  • It looks like it would work on a regular-gauge loom. 2 pegs = 1 peg, so I don’t see why not. Wouldn’t hurt to try :)

  • Yes, it would work on a large gauge loom, not regular, but large gauge.

  • We should do this as a loom along on Facebook. I would love to make his but i am not sure it would come out as it is suppose to.

  • We will consider it for a future loom-a-long.

  • Can anyone help me out with the afghan loom? I have started over several times, but the knit is so tight that I am afraid the pegs will break. What am I doing wronge? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

  • Knit one peg at a time. After casting on, knit one peg at a time, wrapping the entire loom and then lifting the stitches can make the stitches really tight. Also, you may want to try a yarn that has a natural fiber content, like wool, so it has some inherent elasticity and has a bit more give.

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Apr 26, 2014

Picot Triangle Shawl

Check out this beautiful shawl made on the 28″ Knitting Board. It was designed by Kristen Mangus from Good Knit Kisses. Thank you Kristen!

Picot_Triangle_ShawlTriangle design shawl using wedge technique (inspired by the Hexagon blanket by Charity Windham). This shawl is a generous size for larger sizes up to 76″ wide from end to end! Cast on Edge is 53″ and can be made smaller for smaller sizing needs.

 

Stitch gauge: 4 sts per inch x 8 rows per inch in garter stitch

 

Loom: 28″ Knitting Board with peg extenders. 

 

Yarn: 800 yards medium weight (4) Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable color Petunia.  3 balls used in sample. 9.85 oz/280 grams finished weight. 

 

Abbreviations:

EW – EwrapP – PurlHS – Half Stitch  SL – Slip (skip first stitch)  st – Stitch    CO – Cast On   BO – Bind Off

 

Cast on: Picot CO 165 pegs. (starting on left working to right if right handed, Place removable Stitch Marker on peg 1) http://youtu.be/MdtQZm9wUE0

 

Row 1: SL 1, P to marker (all odd rows will repeat this way.)

 

Row 2: HS 1 at marked peg & move marker 1 peg to right (do NOT work HS st), EW to peg 165, Cable CO 3, BO 3 to form picot (See notes below on details for Cable CO and BO). I like to have 3 st markers on pegs 166-168 to show where picots need to be added on even numbered rows. For less picots on edging only, add picots every 4th row. As the pattern reads, this edge will be fuller than the cast on picots to give it a ruffled look when draped.

 

 Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until last HS is at peg 164 & ending on row Row 2. This row will be HS 1, EW 1.

 

 Begin Picot Bind Off*.

 

 *This is an alternate to my standard picot bind off just for this pattern.

 

 **Cable CO 3, BO 4 (** rep between **,** til one st left on loom, EW 1 cut tail and pull through) (VIDEO COMING SOON as of April 2014)

 

Weave in both tails into project.  If using color changing yarn be sure to weave like colored tails to closest color.

Blocking may be needed due to tension and evenness of such a large project. Do NOT steam block acrylic or it will “kill” it! Block with a light washing and let dry pinned on blocking board if needed. See bottom of pattern on Mitered Square Lovey for wet blocking instructions. http://goodknitkisses.blogspot.com/2013/07/mitered-square-picot-lovey-free-pattern.html

Notes on HS

Unlike an EW (where the working yarn is wrapped from the back between the next peg and around the front of the  desired stitch/peg to the back) the HS wraps to the front between the previous peg to the front of the desired stitch/peg then between the next stitch (peg).

 

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Apr 10, 2014

Shrug for Special Occasions

shrug,-special-ocassions-easter, cable-free-pattern-knitting-board-chat

 

Easter dresses are almost always too light weight for this time of year, but who can resist them, especially after the loooong winter we’ve jus had?  This quick to make shrug is designed to give you just enough warmth without stealing the show from your fab new Easter outfit for prom dress.   The size is a regular small.  But easy to adjust to your size!  Simply run a tape measure from the front of your shoulder under your armpit across your back under your othe armpit and up to the top of the front of your other shoulder.  The shrug is knit as a scarf (yep that easy) and then manipulated and stitched together to form the shrug.  It’s done in a basic rib cable.

Your will need:

Knitting Board with 22+ pegs

knitting hook

186 bulky yarn ( I sues 2 skeins of DeborahNevilles Serenity which has a sprinkle of sequins for more glamor).

N- cochet hook

seam pins

scissors

tape measure

painter’s tape

Sitches:

Basic Rib

Cable

Instructions:

Cast on 22 stitches with your yarn.

Work Row 1 in Ribbed stitch.

Mark with tape where cables will be worked. this makes it easy to keep cabling in the same spot. I started with from the left and  crossed acable in font using the firs two ribs, I did another front-crossed cable every two ribs over from the last two I just crossed.

Coninue  knitting in the rib pattern.

every 8th row, work another set of cables.

For this shrug I knit a 60″ Long scarf and ended with a rib row. I wanted it to be a snug fit  Pin these edges to the side of the scarf. Use the tail to sew together these edges. YO will end up with an 8″ neckline and approximately a 7″ arm hole.

scarf-folded-int0-shrug

 

Bring the lower corners up to he 4″ marked seam pins.  HINT:   if you can’ imagine how his can possibly work, take a long rectangular scarf and old it as directed to see it before you begin working.

 

 

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Mar 27, 2013

Friendship Shawl

Friendship Shawl 2

A shawl for a best friend is sometimes the closest we can get to giving our best friend a perpetual hug. Although your arms are not around their shoulders, the yarn that has passed through your hands thousands of times can be around their shoulders each time they wear the shawl.

Materials

Knitting Loom
67 peg small gauge knitting loom. Recommend to use All-n-One knitting loom.

Yarn
520 yrds worsted weight wool. Sample was knit with 6 skeins of Lion Brand Superwash Merino Cashmere.

Notions
Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size
58 inches x 16 inches when blocked

Pattern notes

Use one strand throughout. Suggest to use stitch markers to mark the stitch pattern count as this will make it easier to work the rows (see chart below). First row of Fern Lace Stitch Pattern is worked in a counter-clockwise direction (Left to Right)so that the first Lace row goes in a clockwise direction (Right to Left). Link to the video showing how to accomplish the stitch pattern on a loom: http://youtu.be/Xs9d1ImBVnE

Fern Lace Stitch Patternchart

Row 1: K to the end of row

Row 2: k3, *yo, k2, sl1-k1-psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last st k1

Row 3: K to the end of row

Row 4: k2, *yo, k2, sl1-k1-psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2sts, k2

Loom Knitting Break-down of Fern Lace Stitch Pattern.

We are going to focus on the stitch pattern, the break down will consist from the * of the stitch pattern, example for Row 2:  *yo, k2, sl1-k1-psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1. We are numbering these stitches as follows:

pegs illos

Row 1: Knit (from Left to Right direction on the loom)

Row 2: Move loops on the loom as follows:

Step 1: Take loop from peg 4 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4.

Step 3: Place loop from Step 1 on peg 4. Peg 4 has two loops on it.

Step 4: Remove loop from peg 5 and hold it.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Step 6: Place loop from Step 4 on peg 5. Peg 5 has two loops on it.

Step 7: Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Step 8: Move loop from peg 8 to peg 7.

Step 9: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

Step 10: Move loop from peg 1 to 2. Peg 1 is empty.

Row is ready to be worked.

E-wrap peg 1, knit peg 2-7 (treating both loops on pegs 4 and 5 as one loop), e-wrap peg 8, knit peg 9.

Row 3: knit to the end of the row

Row 4: Repeat Row 2

Remember: The breakdown only includes from the * of the instructions

 DIRECTIONS

Crochet cast on 67 stitches (starting at peg 1, going from Right to Left direction on the loom), prepare to work a flat panel.

Border Edging

Row 1: K to the end or row.

Row 2: P to the end of row.

Lace rows

Row 1: K to the end of row

Row 2: k3, *yo, k2, sl1-k1-psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last st k1

Row 3: K to the end of row

Row 4: k2, *yo, k2, sl1-k1-psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2sts, k2

Repeat Lace Rows 1-4 until shawl measures 56 inches.

Border Edging

Next row: P to the end of row.

Next row: K to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Lightly block to measurements.

The chart below (click to enlarge) has 67 stitches charted. Each square shows the 9 stitches that constitute the Fern Lace Stitch Pattern, mark your knitting loom pegs by 9 stitches as shown to help you in creating the stitch pattern.

Button for Download 2

 

1 Comment

  • beautiful!!

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Sep 12, 2012

Ready For Fall? Double Knit Ribbed Shawl

Get started this fall with a beautiful Double Knit Ribbed Shawl. Super easy to make on the 10″ or 28″ Knitting Board. It can be whipped up in couple days….AND oh soooo soft!!

Beautiful Shawl that is so super easy and quick to knit that it is sure to be a favorite wrap.  Great starter project in double knit, and looks equally beautiful as a scarf.  You can use your 10” or 28” knitting board for this one, and have it ready to wear to dinner tomorrow evening.

Stitch:  Rib

Yarn:  Lion Brand Homespun, Baroque in shades of purple, 8 skeins reserving 1 skein for the fringe.     98% Acrylic and 2% Polyester, 185 yd per skein   (6 oz/169m)

Finished size:  26” X 72” including fringe– Width relaxes to 36” when draped.

Needed: Knitting Board (10″, or 28″. If using the 10″, you will make 2 pieces and sew together),  knit hook, large darning needle, and crochet hook size 8.

Gauge:  2 sts=1”  4 rows=1”

Directions:

Cast On 22 sts (10” KB) or 44 sts (28”KB) using a basic cast on (stockinette).

Work in Rib st until you piece is desired length (sample is aprox 54” before fringe).  This will be aprox 216 rows knit in Rib stitch.

Bind Off in Rib stitch using the crochet hook by lifting 1 loop over 1 loop.  This will maintain the nice stretchy edge to match the cast on edge.

If you are using the 10” Knitting Board, you will create a 2nd panel just like the first making sure to work the same amount of rows as the first panel.  Lay the panels out on long table or clean floor, and match the long sides.  Using a darning needle and single strand of yarn, sew the panels together with the invisible stitch.  Do not pull too tight as you sew; you will want the knit to remain stretchy, so small stitches are best.  Secure at both ends with a stitch leaving a long yarn tail that will blend with the fringe.

Did you save 1 skein of yarn for the fringe?  You want to make this nice and thick so the shawl will drape nicely and give a full, luxurious effect.

Cut the yarn so that you have pieces aprox 19-20” long.  You want to have a fringe piece for each edge stitch.  So if your shawl is 44 sts wide, you should have at least 88 pieces cut for both ends.  Fold each piece in center and place in one edge stitch starting from one side edge.  Using crochet hook, pull the 2 ends of yarn thru the loop and pull snuggly.  Always pull the loop into the stitch from same side of shawl.  Work a few pieces and then, do some fringe at opposite edge working towards center.  Continue adding the fringe until all 44 sts are complete.  It is not necessary that they are all even in length.  The variation adds to the charm of the shawl.  Add fringe to opposite end of shawl and you are ready to emerge with your beautiful new wrap, or save it to place under the Christmas tree for your favorite relative or friend.

 

 

8 Comments

  • What spacing is the board? 1/2 inch, 1 inch, or 1 1/2 inch? Thanks.

  • If you use a 10″ or a 28″ Knitting Board, 1/2″ spacing. If using the All-n-One loom, use 2cm spacing. That will make the same gauge.

  • It is amazing to use knitting board to make something. I seach online how knitting board looks like. It seems to be a two pieces of wood and some nail. May I ask, how many centiment between to nail and how thick is the nail? Thank you

  • Hello
    I will be using the All-n-One loom, you say to use the 2cm spacing.
    Q1: I would cast on 44 sts??
    Q2: Would a chain cast on work ??
    Thank you B.

  • Hello
    This is double knitting, using both sides??

  • Yes, it is double knit.

  • Not really understanding what Gauge: 2 sts=1” 4 rows=1” actually means I am new to knitting, so appreciate if you can help me.

  • It is measuring the number of stitches you get per inch and the number of rows per inch. In one inch, you should have 2 stitches. In one inch, you should have 4 rows. A sample swatch is required to measure the gauge. Cast on approximately 16 stitches and work about 5 inches. Take it off the loom, then measure the gauge.

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