Browsing articles in "Shawls/Shrugs"
Mar 7, 2017

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

  • I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
    Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
    Can you clarify this for me in some way?

  • Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
    Should there be a yo there?

  • Ginny, what number is this row?

  • Ginny,
    At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
    Row 1: k to end of row.
    Row 2: p to end of row.
    These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

    The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
    Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
    Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
    The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

    Hope the above helps.

  • The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
    Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?

  • No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

    Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.

  • Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
    Now I feel ready to start
    The shawl is gorgeous
    I just hope I can make it
    Thanks for all the help

  • Sorry me again
    I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

    The explanation indicates
    Over 3 pegs
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
    Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
    Knit peg 3
    Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
    Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

    The pattern has
    Yo,CDD,yo
    Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
    Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

    Is there avideo on this or can there be one?

  • How do you do a CDD?

  • Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.

  • I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

    This is the way I would do it:
    3 2 1

    Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
    Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
    Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

    You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

    Hope the above helps.

  • Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
    I need clarification
    Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
    Or
    Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
    Or
    Does it mean something else?
    Thank you once again for your help

  • You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/

  • Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love

  • What method of cast on do you use.

  • Hello,
    Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
    Any help is appreciated

  • This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?

  • The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.

  • Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Deb,

    The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you so much for the video Isela
    It makes things clearer for a newbie
    Much thanks

  • I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

    Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

    Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

    I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

    Thanks! appreciate it.

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Feb 26, 2017

Spring in the Ozarks Poncho

Spring in the Ozark Mountains consist of cold mornings, warm afternoons, and cool evenings.  Light weight ponchos are great for keeping warm when needed.

The Spring in the Ozarks Poncho is knit in 100% cotton making it the perfect poncho for spring and summer.  The unique asymmetrical design allows for more than one way to wear it.  Bright colors make it fun to wear.

LOOM:  28” Loom with Extenders

YARN:  820 yds of worsted weight cotton yarn.  Cascade Yarns Luna in color #9994 used in sample (100% hand-painted Peruvian cotton, 164 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  med adult

 

 

 

 

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

k2tog=knit 2 together

p2tog=purl 2 together

YO=yarn over (e-wrap peg.  Undo the wrap and place in front of peg before working the stitch on the next row.)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 CO 168 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P2tog, k to end

R3 – 4:  Rep rows 1 – 2 once

R5:  eyelet row K1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to last peg, K1

R6:  P2tog, k to end

Continue decreasing every other row by repeating rows 1 – 2 until only 2 stitches remain

Next row:  K2

Next row:  P2tog

Cut working yarn leaving a tail approx. 30” long for seaming.  Bind off by pulling the yarn tail through the last stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold the triangle in half with the long side together.

Seam the 2 sides together using the mattress stitch starting with the bind off point even with the eyelet on the other side.

 

Seam for approx. 20” leaving the rest open for the head and neck.

 

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 Comments

  • This is the first loom pattern I have truly loved. I plan to print it so I can make it. Great job!

  • I meant for a clothing item.

  • I love this! I hope to make it!

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Feb 12, 2017

Gardens in Giverny

Giverny is a community near the River Seine.  It is a place that Claude Monet once called home.  In Giverny, he created beautiful gardens which served as inspiration for many of his paintings, including his famous Water Lilies series.  The colors in this lovely wrap felt very botanical to me.  The elongated stitches give the wrap a gorgeous drape and flowing feel.  I hope you will enjoy creating a ‘Garden’ of your very own.

 

LOOM:  18” All-n-One Loom

YARN:  2 skeins Red Heart Soft in Guacamole and 1 skein Red Heart Soft in Watercolors.

NOTIONS:  Knitting Tool, Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Tape Measure, Cable Needle

GAUGE: 16 sts and 24 rows = 4” in twisted stockinette

SIZE:  14” x 40” before blocking

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

CO=Cast on

k=knit stitch (note: the u-wrap knit stitch is recommended for this project)

k2tog=knit 2 together

p=purl stitch

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

st(s)=stitch(es)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Using the Guacamole yarn, cast on 62 stitches.

Rows 1, 3 & 5:  Knit all stitches.

Rows 2, 4 & 6:  Purl all stitches.

Row 7:  *Knit peg.  Wrap same peg 4 times.  Rep from * to end of row.

Row 8:  Peg 1- begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.  *Next 6 pegs – drop the top 4 wraps from each peg.  Each peg will have a stitch on it and a long loop behind it.  Carefully place the stitches from pegs 6, 5, and 4 on the cable needle.  Drop the cable needle to the center of the loom temporarily.  Move the stitch from peg 3 to peg 6, the stitch from peg 2 to peg 5, and the stitch from peg 1 to peg 4.  From the cable needle – move stitch 4 to peg 1, stitch 5 to peg 2, and stitch 6 to peg 3.  Purl pegs 1-6.  Rep from * until the last peg.  Last peg – begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.

Using the Watercolors yarn, repeat rows 1-8.

Alternate colors and repeat rows 1-8 until panel reaches approximately 40” in length.  End with the Guacamole yarn.  Continuing with the Guacamole color, repeat rows 1-6 once more.

Remove panel from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Lightly steam to block.

 

ASSEMBLY

Lay the knitted panel down.

Fold the left side down as shown below:

Fold the right side down as shown below:

Seam the two sides together using the tapestry needle:

 

The following pictures are close up shots of the seaming process:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the seaming is finished, complete the project by weaving in the yarn ends.

 

 

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7 Comments

  • What a beautiful design, Jenny…so elegant and definitely brings garden-y thoughts to mind! :)

  • Jenny this is truly amazing looking you seize to amaze me with your loom knitting talents

  • Jenny this is absolutely stunning! I love the imagery that you painted for me :).

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you, Kathy! That is very kind of you to say :)

  • ps- I have wanted to visit France since I was in high school, lol. Maybe I will one day find my way there :)

  • Thank you, Sunshine!

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Jan 19, 2017

Poncho with Fingerless Mittens (double knit)

This poncho pattern comes with matching fingerless mittens.Fun and easy to wear for all sizes-warm, but not bulky! When a coat is too much, but it’s chilly out, this poncho is perfect.

Loom: 28” Loom +Extenders Set up for double knit using small wood spacers at 1 cm spacing

Yarn: Patons Shetland Chunky, 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool #5, aprox 121 yds per skein. Total used in sample is 14 skeins. Color is Med Blue.

Stitches: Stockinette, Knit and Purl

Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Sewing/darning needle

Size: One size fits most adults.

Gauge: 8 sts x 14 rows=3”

Finished Dimensions: 44” wide x 62” long from front hem to back hem.

Poncho is designed in 3 pieces, the Right side, the Left side, and the Hood, with a simple crocheted tie for neckline. Gloves are each worked in one piece. All edging is accented with Purl stitches, and we call this effect, Popcorn Stitches. The rest of the poncho is done with basic double knit stockinette.

Basic Abbreviations Used:  P=purl    K=knit    aprox=approximately    st(sts)=stitch (stitches)    R=right    L=left

The Popcorn is worked on all sides of each, the R and L side. When the pieces are joined together down front and back of poncho, the Popcorn really stands out.

Popcorn Stitch: Work Purl stitch on every other stitch, on both sides of the loom. One row will start with purl st and the next row will start with knit stitch. Alternate the knit and purl stitches as you go across the loom. Directions for starting each row will be given at beginning of the section.

Left side of poncho: Cast on 58 sts in stockinette. Lay anchor yarn.
Rows 1-14: Work in Popcorn, starting first row with K stitch. Work across loom alternating the K st with the Purl st. Start the next row with P st and alternate the knit and purl across the loom.
Row 15: Start row with P st and continue Popcorn for 8 sts. Work 44 sts in Stockinette St, and last 6 sts in Popcorn to end.
Repeat row 15 until the piece is aprox 26” long, less border, or if counting rows, you will have worked aprox 122 rows. For shorter poncho, work less rows.

Neckline/Shoulder: We are creating the opening for the neck.
Bind off 6 stitches at end of loom, or R side of loom. Start this bind off at last stitch or right edge of knit. Place last bind off loop onto next peg with yarn. This will end the Popcorn on R side of knitted piece. On next row, be sure to lift both loops from the bind off when completing this row.

Work 21 rows on remaining 52 stitches. This is the side of the neckline across shoulder. Now, you want to place the 6 sts back onto the right side of the knitted poncho center. To do this, continue row 21 for additional 6 stitches. Lay anchor yarn over just these 6 new stitches. Complete this row with hook over, but the 6 new stitches will just have one loop. You can hook them over after the next full row. Start the Popcorn on this row for the 6 new stitches.
Continue working the next 122 rows with 8 sts Popcorn, 44 sts Stockinette, 6 sts Popcorn.
Work 14 rows in Popcorn so that finish is same as the beginning.

Right Side Of Poncho: Right side of poncho is knit just like the left side except, work row 15 as, 6 Popcorn stitches, 44 Stockinette stitches and 8 Popcorn stitches. Work the neckline/shoulder from the beginning of the loom, or first 6 sts. Before taking this piece off loom, lay next to Left side to confirm that they are the same length. Adjust if necessary.

Hood: The hood is worked with Popcorn stitch around the face. It will fold back before sewing to poncho. (if desired)
Cast On 32 stitches in Stockinette stitch. Lay anchor yarn.
Work 24 sts in Stockinette, 8 sts in Popcorn across the 32 cast on stitches.
Repeat this row until the piece measures aprox 28” in length.
Bind off of loom and anchor yarn loosely with 2 loop method. (1 thru 1 loops). Set aside for sewing.
Make a drawstring with crochet chain aprox 50”, completed length.

Sewing and Finishing:
The 2 sides of the poncho will be joined so that the neckline is lined up and creates a soft rectangular opening. This is where the hood will be attached. You want to seam the two sides together using matching yarn and the darning needle. You are joining the 6 st edges of the popcorn stitches.
Sew with invisible stitch. Join one seam (back of poncho) from bottom hem to neckline opening (back of neckline). When sewing the front of poncho, leave the top 5-6” open at neckline, and sew from this point to hem. Do some reinforcement stitches at neckline opening.
Your poncho is now in one piece-just need to add the hood. Fold the hood over so that the popcorn edges are together. Seam the back of hood from top to bottom edge. Slip the hood on your head to determine how deep you want it to be as this will help you decide if folding the popcorn edge over is desirable.
The hood is sewn to the poncho by matching the center of hood to center of back at back seam. Match the front edges of the hood to the front top edge of the neckline. Tack these points, and a few others in between. This will keep the hood lined up with the poncho for complete sewing. Sew securely all around the neck opening, so that the hood is now part of the poncho.  Do this using invisible stitch.
Attaching the Crochet Tie: Lay the crochet tie around neckline seam so that the ends are equal length at front of hood. There should be about 12” of crochet tie at each side of hood. Stitch the tie to the neckline seam with matching yarn and secure at each outer front edge of hood.
(Optional)  You may want to knot the ends of tie or sew on a small pompom or bead.  Your poncho is ready to wear.

Matching Fingerless Gloves: These are perfect to add some warmth to the arms without the bulk of full gloves. You can make them as long as desired. Measure from base of fingers to about 3” from elbow. This will bring them right up under the edge of poncho. Our sample makes a glove about 10” around the arm and 12” long. You can adjust these measurements as desired.
Cast on 24 stitches. Work 8 rows in popcorn stitch.
Row 9-54: Work in Stockinette.
Bind off loosely with basic bind off (1 loop over 1).
Sew the seam to close in glove. Start at bind off edge, opposite end from popcorn, and sew aprox 1”. Leave thumb opening 1-1/2”. Sew from thumb opening to top of glove at popcorn edge. Knot securely. Make a 2nd glove.

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6 Comments

  • I am using Redheadt worsted weight yarn this has turned out 15 inches widi am trying to block it to 8 any suggestions

  • That comment was for Stitchology above

  • Love the outfit. I hope one day I can make it. I’m just learning. But will give it a try.

  • Beginner beginner! Can any knit stitch be used for the stockinette stitch? Is there any video to go by for this project available for purchase or viewing? I love this poncho!

    Jill

  • The knit stitch for double knitting stockinette is one. We have some videos in the video section of the website that shows the stockinette in double knit.

  • I want to make the poncho but I only have the AIO, I know that I’ll get a smaller poncho, but I wonder if that could work if I set the wooden spacer in the second configuration.

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Dec 4, 2016

Snow Kisses Shawl

shawl-2

Envelope yourself in a whisper soft shawl this holiday season.

LOOM:  All-n-One Knitting Loom

YARN:  Approx 750 yds of merino wool worsted weight yarn.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Blue Skyes (3 skeins)  was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool.

GAUGE: 8 sts and 14 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.

SIZE:  Approx 24” x 52″ (suggest to steam block).

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

p2tog=purl two stitches together

yo=yarn over

rep=repeat

shawl-5

INSTRUCTIONSchart

CO 106 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: p3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Rep Row 11 and Row 12: until item measures approx 50”

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last two rows, 4 more times (total of 8 rows).

BBO.

Steam block or wet block.

shawl-3

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8 Comments

  • This is so lovely, Isela! :) I love the color and the simplicity of the stitch…so elegant.

  • This shawl looks so pretty! I can’t wait to start! Just to verify when I knit the pegs can I ewrap or did you use another knit stitch? Thank you for the pattern and your time.

  • This is a beautiful piece of knitting. Thanks for sharing. Laura

  • The Knit stitches were regular knit stitches, not Ewrap.

  • You are welcome

  • Thank you! :)

  • Does this pattern use one strand or two?

  • June, it uses 1 strand throughout the pattern.

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Nov 20, 2016

Morgaine’s Capelet

morgaines-capelet-5

LOOM:  Master Zippy + 2 Zippy Looms

YARN:  Approx 264  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Knit Picks Tuff Puff in Silver yarn was used in sample (100% wool, 44 yds per skein).

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle, crochet hook size M.

OTHER:  Button 1-3/8”  (34mm)

GAUGE: 6 sts and 8 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  57” x 18”

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

W&T=Wrap and Turn: Take working yarn to the front of the peg and then take the yarn to the back and around the peg, working yarn ends to the front of the peg. wrap-and-turn

 

RT=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Knit peg 2.

LT=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

RTP=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Purl peg 2.

LTP=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Purl peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

morgaines-capelet-back

Short-Row Wedge Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K pegs 15-23. W&T peg 24.

Row 3: K from peg 23-15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-21. W&T peg 22.

Row 5: K from peg 21-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-19. W&T 20.

Row 7: K pegs 19-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-17. W&T peg 18.

Row 9: K pegs 17-15. P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K peg 15. W&T peg 16.

Row 11: K peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K from peg 15-26 (working the wrap and the stitches together).

Regular Segment Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K to end.

Row 3: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 5:. K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 7: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 9: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K to end.

Row 11: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K to end.

morgaines-capelet-6

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy loom as shown below (total of 6 Zippy and 4 corners, 28 pegs).

zippy-with-6-zippy

 

Cast on 26 sts from right to left (first row will be from left to right), prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: (from left to right) k to end of row

Row 2, 4, 6: p to end of row

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 36 rows: Work three Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 3 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Ribbed Neckline-done in two panels

Panel 1:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 26 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Panel 2:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 24 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row  1-6: *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Assembly

Lay the capelet flat, right side up.

  1. Starting on the left and using long tail from Panel 1, mattress stitch seam panel 1 to the neckline area of the capelet (as shown below).
  2. Pick up Panel 2 and mattress stitch seam it to the remaining neckline area of the capelet.
  3. Mattress stitch both panels together (at the center where Panel 1 ends and Panel 2 begins).assembly-of-the-capelet
  4. Attach button to left side of capelet, about ½” from the neckline.
  5. On the right side of the capelet, so it aligns with the button, create a button loop by crocheting 6 chains.

Weave all ends in. Steam block.

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2 Comments

  • Could we have a video on how to put this together
    I need a visual on this
    And what is a whip stitch?
    I am new to this

  • You mean a mattress stitch? The mattress stitch is a way to seam panels invisibly.

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Nov 14, 2016

Simple Shrug for 18″ Dolls

Whimsical Loom Knits – November 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

You can quickly create this project for your favorite little 18″ doll fan.  Your little doll lover will have so much fun keeping their dollies warm with this soft, snuggly shrug.

img_3669img_3671

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn.  Suggested yarns include:  Mohair Metallic by Buttercream Luxe Craft or Mohair Mountain by Universal Yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, tape measure.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Techniques

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3677

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3675

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a long yarn tail.  Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 14 pairs of pegs:

img_3674

Double knit using the duplicate zigzag stitch until you have a panel measuring 16″ in length.

img_3663

Bind off.  Leave a long yarn tail.

Fold one end of the panel over.

Create a sleeve:  Use the long yarn tail to sew the two edges together, making a seam measuring 3.5″ in length.  Weave in the yarn end.

img_3668

Repeat this process on the other end of the panel, creating the second sleeve.  Weave in the yarn end.

Slip the shrug onto an 18″ doll and you’re all done with your super simple snuggly shrug <3

img_3670

 

2 Comments

  • This is so cute!!! I love the hat, too!! Is there a pattern for that, too?

  • Thank you Catherine. I am so glad you like it. I don’t have a pattern for the hat at this time, but I will work on one and let you know when it is ready :) Have a great weekend!

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Nov 10, 2016

Fairhaven Poncho

Fairhaven Poncho

Introducing one of the snuggiest ponchos to ever grace the knitting world!  It is created with #7 Jumbo Weight yarn, worked in ribs and twists which serve to bump the warmth and coziness of the piece to incredible levels.  This is for all those times it would be so nice to stay snuggled inside a blanket wherever the day may lead!

Items Needed

LoomZippy Looms assembled to allow for 52 pegs— can be 12 Zippy looms, with 4 Zippy corners, or 13 Zippy looms in a row…can also be knit with only 10 Zippy looms with 4 corners, or 11 Zippy looms in a row, if the side panels are worked separately and then seamed into place during finishing.

Yarn: approx. 440 yards #7 Jumbo Weight (Sample uses 9.5 skeins of Red Heart Grande in Wisteria, 46 yds per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)  **Note: it is suggested to use a yarn with a wool blend to help in blocking the pullover to the desired size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size:  This design is either very stretchable or has more swing, which allows for just about all women’s sizes. This is why using a wool/wool blend yarn for blocking to the size desired is helpful.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, knitting pins and blocking pins)

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
rt2: right twist over 2 stitches
lt2: left twist over 2 stitches
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:

There are a couple different options for this design.  It can be worked as a longer poncho pullover as is shown in the photos by simply following the instructions as written.  To work this pattern a little shorter, such as for a caplet or shoulder pullover that ends at just about the elbows, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart for only one of the 20 row repeats, ending with Row 22, rather than the two as written, Proceed to the Neck Shaping rows beginning at Row 43.  Also, the arm holes are not added during seaming.

If working with a shorter loom assembly is desired, the side panels can be worked separately from the back panel. Just keep in mind that this will add more seaming to the project during the finishing steps. For the number of Zippys required for this vs. the entire back panel + side panels, see the Loom section above.  When working the side panels separately, follow the instructions for the first 6 sts, and then the last 6 sts of the Back & Side Panels section.  The back panel will be worked on all pegs in between those 12 sts.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  All cable rows are worked from the Left to the Right. They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Front Panel

Set up Rows:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Row 1:  p2, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2:  k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to end of row.

Main Pattern Rows:

Rows 3-5:  repeat Rows 1 and 2, ending with Row 1.

Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 7:  p2, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 11:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Fairhaven Pullover, backRow 12:  k1, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 13:  p3, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 14:  k1, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k1, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 17:  repeat Row 1.

Row 18: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 3-22.

Neck Shaping:

Row 43:  p2, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, BO 2 sts, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p2.

Row 44: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [lt2], BO right st of lt2. Drop yarn from skein 1 and add another skein to the 2nd half of the panel: [rt2], BO left st of rt2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 45:  p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 2 and pick up yarn from skein 1: BO 1 st, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2,, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 46:  k1, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 1 and pick up yarn from skein 2: BO 1 st, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 47:  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 2.  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 1.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

 

Back & Side Panels

**Note: See Pattern Notes for details on working these three panels separately with fewer Zippy looms.

Set up Rows:

Rows 1-5:  p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1.

Main Pattern Rows:

Row 6:  k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 7:  p7, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.

Row 8: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 11:  p7, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p7. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 12:  k6, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 13:  p8, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 14:  k6, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k6, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 17:  repeat Row 11.

Row 18: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Fairhaven Pullover, side/backRow 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Row 23:  repeat Row 11.

Row 24:  k6, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 25:  repeat Row 11.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 6-25.

Back Shaping:

Row 43:  p7, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p7.

Row 44: k6, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 45:  p7, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p7.

Row 46:  k6, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 47:  p6, BO 9 sts (to peg 15), k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1,  BO 9 sts (to peg 40), p6.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood

Prepare to work just the center 16 pegs to continue the cable pattern up through the center of the hood.  The side pieces will be picked up later and can either just stay on the loom, or can be safely removed onto stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn for safe keeping.

Row 48:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 49:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 50:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 51:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 52:  k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1.

Row 53:  k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Row 54:  k1, p2, work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p2, k1.

Row 55:  repeat Row 53.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 56:  k1, p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], p1, k1.

Row 57:  repeat Row 51.

Row 58:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 59:  repeat Row 49.

Row 60:  repeat Row 48.

Row 61:  repeat Row 49.

Row 62:  repeat Row 50.

Rows 63-65:  repeat Row 51.

Row 66:  repeat Row 58.

Row 67:  repeat Row 49.

Rows 68-87:  repeat Rows 48-67.

Bind off these 16 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood Side Panels:

Working on the 6 side panel sts on the left, place live sts back onto the loom if needed, and work as follows:

Rows 1-20:  repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: k6.

B: p6.

Row 21: k6, CO to 2 additional pegs (these will be on the side closest to the center cable panel).

Rows 22-51: repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: p8.

B: k8.

Fairhaven Pullover, 3Bind off these 8 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Repeat for the right side panel, making sure to CO the extra 2 sts toward the center cable panel.

Finishing

Invisibly seam the side hood panels to the center hood panel, keeping even throughout. Using knitting pins will help with the seaming. When the side hood panel narrows to 6 sts, the shoulder should have been reached.  Seam the back shoulder area closed smoothly.  In order to achieve the raised chain look that the sample shows, stitch the side panel just a bit underneath the BO at the shoulders.

Beginning at the bottom, invisibly seam the front panel to the side panels, keeping the area of approximately 15 rows at the center of the horizontal running cables open for arm holes.  Make sure the two sides are stitched evenly so that the pullover lays smoothly and is balanced.  Continue to seam all the way to the outside edges of the center “V” at the neck edge.  To achieve the raised chain look, repeat the procedure of stitching the side panel just underneath the BO edges at the shoulders.

Finish ends and trim close to work.  For this almost rope-like yarn, it is sometimes difficult to weave in securely.  Feel free to tie the joining yarn ends into square knots. Stretch the knitting as the ends are woven in to help ensure they don’t come loose.

Block thoroughly so that the cables “pop” and the size is as desired. (Sample uses steam blocking)

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

 

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8 Comments

  • That is lovely hon.

  • Thank you, Monique! :D

    Bethany~

  • The cables on this look beautiful!

  • Oh, thank you, Christine! :) They are just simple 2 peg twists, but provide a big wow factor, right? Especially in this Zippy gauge.

    Bethany~

  • Hi I am a little confused about the cast on of 41 pegs when I follow the pattern.
    I’m some how going over to 43 pegs I have done this 4 times and each time when I follow from *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from *
    If I go 2 times is to short and leaves a long ways to the end of the 41 pegs
    and 3 times is to long when adding the end p1. Going past the cast on.
    I hope you can make sense of what I mean and maybe see my mess up. I apologize for the inconvenience I’m stumped and I usually better on videos. I’m hoping you can see wher I am making a mistake I configured the zippy loom set as directed.
    Thanks Chyre

  • Hi Chyre :) Thank you for your question! Yes, the CO really is 41 pegs. The confusion comes from the “repeat to last stitch”. You will be literally repeating those sts until you reach the last peg in line, which then will be a purl. It is not a full repeat on that last time…you just repeat until the last peg is reached. ;)

    I believe this may be the only time in the pattern that this happens, as every other repeat should complete when it reaches whatever number is stated for those last sts. So sorry for the confusion!

    Here’s a tip, in case you run into something else confusing: the front panel is primarily the pattern’s chart repeated, with just a vertical column of purls after repeating the chart three times (so on peg 40). There are also two vertical columns, one each on the very outsides of the repeated pattern chart (so pegs 1 and 41) that are made up of garter stitch (knits alternating with purls). This makes a good reference point to check against.

    If you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

  • Dear Bethany.
    Goodmorning and Thank you so much! I understand that completely now. I really love this pattern and was getting frustrated with myself. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. :)

  • Oh, good, Chyre! :) I’m so glad I could help clear things up for you. No need to be frustrated…I’m always happy to help. I am so thrilled you love the design and are whipping one up! There is a project page for this on Ravelry that you can link your own to, so we can all enjoy it along with you. Can’t wait to see it! :D

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Mar 25, 2016

Spring Mountain Shawl

Designed by Bethany A Dailey

bethany_shawl

With the first seasonal turns of winter into spring, warming winds wrap themselves around mountain peaks, sending waters of thawing snow caps cascading downwards into the welcoming valleys below. The craggy rocks beneath the crests begin to peek out through the ice and snow, bringing with them the hope of wildflowers and new life after the season of cold.  This asymmetrical shawl embodies this feeling of winter giving way to spring…a little bit blanketed, a little bit revealed, just like those thawing mountain peaks.

Knitting Loom: Zippy Loom, 20 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 465 yards of bulky weight yarn, two strands held as one. Sample used Charisma Tweed (5 skeins in the color Gray) 93 yds/85 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter, one or two large decorative buttons.

Gauge: Approx 3 sts x 1.75 rows= 4 inches (in Figure Eight Stitch) **Note: This is a very stretchy stitch, so all measurements are approximate.

Finished Measurements: Width from neck to elbow: 15″, Length before seaming: 74″, Length at longest point while worn: 36″  (The size of this shawl can easily be adjusted by changing the number of pegs used and rows knitted.)

Skills Needed: E-wrap, Figure Eight Stitch, Chain CO (or CO of your choice), Basic BO, seaming method of choice.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held throughout.

*Create the Figure Eight Stitch (in single knitting):

  • —To begin, wrap around the outside of peg 1, then around peg 2 as if to EW. Your WY will travel in a sort of figure 8 motion, hence the name of the stitch. KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Carrying the yarn behind peg 2, wrap around peg 3 as if to EW, then back around peg 2. KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Carrying the yarn behind peg 3, wrap around peg 4 as if to EW, then back around peg 3.  KO these 2 pegs.
  • —Continue in this manner to the end of the row.

See tutorial video for more details:

Instructions

Set loom to work in a flat panel using 20 pegs.  CO onto all 20 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-52:  Work Figure Eight Stitch on all 20 pegs.

**Note: Due to the loose nature of this stitch, when adding a new skein, tie the end of the WY and the beginning of the new skein securely into a square knot.  Thread one of the tails onto a yarn needle and work into the strands of the WY at one side of the knot, parting the plies in the yarn to help the end remain secure.  Repeat for the 2nd tail. 

Loosely BBO all 20 pegs.

Finishing

Being careful not to pull too tightly which will cause puckering, neatly stitch the inside edges of the panel together, starting at the bottom edges, for approximately 21″ (sample uses the mattress stitch). Stitch the button(s) in place as desired onto the back side of the remaining opening.

Weave in all ends and block lightly as desired.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

Figure Eight Stitch on Zippy

13 Comments

  • Is there any audio with the video on the figure 8 stitch on the zippy?

  • Nope. I figured it was very self explanatory without any verbal explanation. ;)

  • Hi thanks so much for this pattern, it’s beautiful and it is just the type of shawl that I love. I looked everywhere for a airy type of Shawl pattern a beginner can do and this is perfect. I also wanted to tell Gin that if you check out YouTube you can find verbal institutions to the figure 8 stitch. :)

  • Hi Britt! :) Thank you so much for your lovely comment…I’m so glad you like it!

  • Do you use the figure 8cast on?

  • I actually used the Chain Cast On. :)

  • Thank you Bethany I can not ain’t to get started I am a beginner and hope I will be able to make this beautiful shawl Again thanks a million

  • You are so welcome, Gin…any time! :) I believe that you will have great success with this one, as it is really just the same stitch repeated throughout…perfect for a beginner loomer. Enjoy!

  • I have another dumb question Sorry about this but is this worked on 5 zippys without any corner piece. I don’t know the video shows the corners and I am new to this looming

  • You can choose your own configuration of 20 pegs, as it is worked as a flat panel…can be 5 Zippys on a line or 4 Zippys and 4 corners. ;)

  • Thanks again for the help

  • Beautiful pattern intro, Bethany! The shawl is lovely, too – and Emily is just as pretty as can be :)

  • Oh, thank you so much, Jenny! :D That is so sweet to hear!

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Dec 11, 2015

Zippy Lulu Wrap

Shawl Snugglie.kim

Loom Knitting Advent, Day 11, brings you a lovely Zippy wrap. Worked with super bulky yarn, the Zippy wrap can be worked in less than 2 days!

Designed by Isela Phelps

Day 11

Knitting loom: (8) Zippy loom, (4) connectors, (4) corners.

Yarn: Approx 320 yds of Super Bulky yarn. Bernat Mega Bulky yarn was used in sample, 5 skeins in Lino color.

Other: One large button, sample shown with a 2″ diameter button.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 11 rows=4 inches in stockinette

Size: 28L x 40W inches

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

Rep=Repeat

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rem=Remaining

Rep=Repeat

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up knitting loom to 36 pegs in the round. Knitting loom is set up as the picture below.

Loom set up

Cast on 36 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to the end.

Row 2: p to the end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 15 more times (total of 30 rows).

*Next row: k4, bind off 7 sts, k to the end

Next row: p26, cast on 7 stitches using the half hitch technique, p to the end of row.*

Next row: k to the end.

Next row: p to the end.

Rep last two rows: 19 more times (total of 38 rows).

Rep from* to *

Next row: k to the end.

Next row: p to the end.

Rep last two rows: 15 more times (total of 30 rows).

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Sew button in place, at the top corner of the right side of the wrap.


Zippy Wrap (2)

Zippy Vest on Loom

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Aug 14, 2015

Willow Lace Shawl

Wrap yourself in softness with this delicate shawl. Worked in a silk blend yarn for a luxurious, silky feel. The pattern is provided in a chart form as well as written with a breakdown of the lace stitch section.

Drop_shawlKnitting loom: All-n-One Loom, 103 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 900 yards of silk blend yarn in DK weight. Knit Picks Diadem in Argent Solid (5 skeins)

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, blocking wires and blocking pins

Size: 60 x 17 inches

Gauge: 20 x 24=4 inches in stockinette, blocked

Abbreviations
k=knit stitch
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
BO=Bind off
Rep=Repeat
st(s)=Stitch(es)
k2tog=knit two stitches together
ssk=slip, slip knit
YO=yarn over

Notes: Recommend to place a stitch marker on peg 7 and peg 97. Chart is worked on the peg starting with the first stitch marker (peg 7) to last stitch marker (peg 97).

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 103 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-10: k to end.

Row 11: k6, work row 1 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 12: k6, work row 2 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 13: k6, work row 3 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 14: k6, work row 4 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15: k6, work row 5 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 16: k6, work row 6 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 17: k6, work row 7 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 18: k6: work row 8 of chart to last 6 sts, k6.

Rep Rows 11-18: 47 more times.

Next 10 rows. Repeat Rows 1-10.

Bind off with open basic method. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Stitch Breakdownwillowlace_graph

Row 1 (RS <): *p1, k5; rep from * to last st, p1

  • *Purl peg 1, Knit peg 2 to 6; repeat from the * until the last peg, purl last peg.

Row 2 (RS >): p1, *k5, p1; rep from *

Row 3: *k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last peg, k1

Step 1: Remove loop from peg 3 and hold it (or place on stitch holder).

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 and place it on peg 3.

Step 3: Place loop from Step 1 back on peg 3.

Peg 2 is empty.

Step 4: Remove loop from peg 5 and hold it (or on stitch holder).

Step 5: Move loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Step 6: Place stitch from Step 4 back on peg 5.

Peg 6 is empty.

  • Knit peg 1, ewrap peg 2, knit peg 3 (treat both loops as one loop), purl peg 4, knit peg 5 (treat both loops as one loop), ewrap peg 6; rep from * to last peg, knit the last peg.

Row 4: k1, *k2,  p1, k3;  rep from *.

Untwist the ewraps and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg. Work the row as instructed.

Row 5: *k3, p1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 6: k1. *k2, p1, k3, rep from *.

Row 7: *p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk; rep from * to last st, p1

Step 1: Remove loop from peg 2 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2.

Peg 3 is empty.

Step 3: Place stitch from Step 1 back on peg 2.

Step 4: Remove loop from peg 6 and hold it.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6.

Step 6: Place loop from Step 4 back on peg 6.

Peg 5 is empty.

  • *Purl peg 1, knit peg 2 (treat both loops on the peg as one loop), ewrap peg 3, knit peg 4, ewrap peg 5, knit peg 6 (treat both loops on the peg as one loop); rep from * to the end of row; purl the last peg.

Row 8:  p1, *k5, p1; rep from *

 

25 Comments

  • So pretty! Excellent job! :)

  • Thank you :)

  • I love it! It’s so, pretty! I can’t wait to make this. What is the “open removal method?” I’ve never heard of it before.

  • This is simply beautiful. What a gorgeous piece – thank you for sharing your pattern!

  • Just beautiful! As someone who doesn’t like charts your row to row breakdown is greatly appreciated.

  • Lovely shawl!

  • I really like this shawl pattern very pretty. Thank you. Do you have a video for this pattern I am more of a visual knitter or learner?????

  • Absolutely gorgeous! Thank you so much for sharing!

  • That is beautiful. Would you consider this a project for intermediate or advanced loomers? I’m a beginner and it looks difficult.

  • Thank you so much for the stitch breakdown for this beautiful pattern. I’m still enough of a novice that ssk and k2tog confuse me, but your stitch break downs are always perfectly clear and allow me to knit beyond my vocabulary :)

  • Very pretty! Thank you for breaking down the stitch pattern. I will try to make this this winter.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Angie, there are no videos, but we did provide a breakdown of the stitch pattern.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you Lorri. I am glad it is useful.

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Raelyn, it is the Basic removal method.

  • Thank you, Isela.

  • Hi Isela,

    Absolutely beautiful! If I can make socks on the AIO Loom,

    I can do this or I will dye trying! LOL Thank you for breaking

    down the pattern. I will be back with one / two questions about the stitches, maybe.

    Thank you KB for sharing these beautiful shawls.

  • It is a beautiful pattern and I am going to try it out. Can I use it for a baby blanket and if so what are the amount of stitches, etc. thanks.

  • that is very pretty. I would definitely want to make this sometime.

  • What does RS mean ? I am new to looming

  • It is a right side row, it will go from Right to Left.

  • Thank you

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Jul 24, 2015

Zippy Shawl & Shawlette

LH9A5627Open your wings and fly! Beautiful open stitches and winged tipped edges adorn the tips of this shawlette worked with a simple lace. Worked in garter stitch and short rows to provide width to the wingspan.

Knitting loom: Zippy loom (6 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawlette, (7 Zippy looms for the Zippy Shawl).

Yarn: Approximately 120 yards of super bulky yarn for Zippy Shawlette (240 yards of super bulky yarn for the Zippy Shawl). Samples used Red Heart Boutique Twilight (2 skeins in Turquoise (4 skeins in Mercury) 59 yds/54m.

Notions: knitting tool, big eye tapestry needle.

Size: Zippy Shawlette: 40” wingspan by 16” to the tip.

Zippy Shawl: 70” wingspan by 28” to the tip.

Gauge: Zippy Shawlette: 5 sts x 8 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with the regular knit stitch).

Zippy Shawl: 4 sts x 5 rows= 4 inches (in garter stitch with ewrap knit stitch)

Pattern notes:

Connect the 6 (7 Zippy looms together) 24 (28 pegs).

Abbreviations

BBO: Basic bind off

CO: Cast on

EWK: Ewrap knit

k: knit stitch

p: purl stitch

sts:stitches

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)

 

Zippy ShawletteLH9A5676

Time: Approximately 2.5-3  hours; each wedge takes approximately 10-15 minutes. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 18 sts (from peg 18 to peg 1-left to right).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 18).

Row 2: k 4 (peg 18, 17, 16, 15), YO 1 (ewrap peg 15), k 12 (from peg 14 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

  1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
  2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
  3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
  4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.LH9A5679
  5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
  6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
  7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

In other words: You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 19).

Row 4: k 4 (pegs 19, 18, 17, 16) YO1 (ewrap peg 16), k 11 (from peg 15 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 20).

Row 6: k 4 (pegs 20, 19, 18, 17) YO1 (ewrap peg 17), k 10 (from peg 16 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 21).

Row 8: k 4 (peg 21, 20, 19, 18) YO1 (ewrap peg 18), k 9 (from pegs 17 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 22).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 22, 21, 20, 19). 18 sts rem. K 18 (from peg 18 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

Zippy Shawl

LH9A5635Time: Approximately 4 hours. Each wedge takes approximately 20-25 minutes. 

The Zippy Shawl is worked similar to the Zippy Shawlette, except worked with the ewrap stitch to provide more length and width to the shawl as well as more open lace like stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

Ewrap cast on 24 sts (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Row 1: p to end of row (from peg 1 to peg 24).

Row 2: EWK 4 (peg 24, 23, 22, 21), YO 1 (ewrap peg 21), EWK 18 (from peg 20 to peg 3).

**Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

  1. With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
  2. With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
  3. Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
  4. Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
  5. Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
  6. Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
  7. Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

Row 3: p to end of row (from peg 3 to peg 25).

Row 4: EWK 4 (pegs 25, 24, 23, 22) YO 1 (ewrap peg 22), EWK 17 (from peg 21 to peg 5).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 5: p to the end of row (from peg 5 to peg 26).

Row 6: EWK 4 (pegs 26, 25, 24, 23) YO 1 (ewrap peg 23), EWK 16 (from peg 22 to peg 7).

Repeat from ** to **.

Row 7: p to the end of row (from peg 7 to peg 27).

Row 8: EWK 4 (peg 27, 26, 25, 24) YO 1 (ewrap peg 24), EWK 15 (from pegs 23 to peg 9).

Repeat from ** to **

Row 9: p to the end of row (from peg 9 to peg 28).

Row 10: Basic bind off 4 (pegs 28, 27, 26, 25). 24 sts rem. EWK 24 (from peg 24 to peg 1).

Repeat Row 1-Row 10: 9 more times.

Repeat Rows 1-Row 9.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Tighten the cast on row using the tightening tip.

Block to emphasize the points of the shawl.

 

4 Comments

  • Which way do you cast on? Right to Left (Clockwise), or Left to Righ(Counter Clockwise)?

  • Is there any way you could do a video on the following section of the pattern, I don’ understand it, thanks so much,

    *Move the stitches as follows. Go to the peg with the YO (ewrap).

    With the right hand, remove the YO (ewrap) from the peg and hold it.
    With left hand, remove the loop that is on the peg (same peg that had the YO).
    Place the loop from the right hand on the empty peg.
    Transfer loop from the left hand to the right.
    Lift the loop from the next peg (to the left) and hold it with the left hand.
    Repeat steps 3 to 5: 3x.
    Place the last loop on next empty peg.**

  • I’ll try to explain it in another way.

    You will need a stitch holder (a safety pin works) for this method. Let’s say you are doing the shawlette.

    Assume you are on the first section. You have 4 pegs on the left, (pegs 18, 17, 16, and 15) peg 15 has the YO (an extra ewrap, correct?

    Place the YO (the ewrap) on a stitch holder and leave it there.

    Move the loop on peg 18 over to its neighbor empty peg to the left, peg 19. You have just moved one of the stitches over one spot.

    Move loop from peg 17 to the peg vacated previously (peg 18).

    Repeat the same process with loop on peg 16, (moving it over to peg 17).

    Repeat the same process with loop on peg 15( move it to peg 16) Peg 15 is empty.

    Place the ewrap that is in the stitch holder on peg 15.

  • Hi Raelyn,
    Cast on from left to right so that the first row is from Right to Left.

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Jul 3, 2015

Green Mountain Jazz Jacket (double knit)

Casual and Comfy as a shawl, but this little jacket hugs your body and creates just enough warm where you need it most. Easy to knit in just 2 pieces. Have some fun with a little color work.

aztec_jacket5

Loom: All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit at 1cm spacing

Yarn: Knit Picks Swish Worsted, 100% Superwash Merino Wool.110 yards per skein. Machine wash and low dry. Colors-Dove Heather (D), 6 skeins, Cornmeal (Y) 1.5 skeins, Lemongrass Heather (B), 1.5 skeins, Rainforest Heather (G), 1.5 skeins.

Size: One size fits youth to most adults. Easy fit.

Stitches: Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Large darning needle, (1) button, (1”wide) for front closing.

Gauge: In Stockinette- 7 stitches X 9 rows=2 inches

 

 

Notes: Front of sweater is made as a shawl in one rectangular piece. If you want to have just a long rectangular shawl, increase the center (D) section by additional 26 rows before doing the other 2 multi-color designs. This will result in a 60” long shawl.

Back of sweater is knit as a square and sewn onto the back of sweater front.

Instructions:

Cast On full loom of 48 double stitches in Stockinette stitch using (D) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch.

Change to stockinette stitch and work (7) rows.

Change to rib stitch and work (5) rows.

Next row: Work button hole on stitch # 5-6. Work row in rib.

Work 1 row in rib stitch.

Cut and knot the (D) yarn.

Button Hole: Lift loop off peg #5 and place on peg #6. Do this to both boards. Weave the row in rib stitch on all pegs. When hooking over, lift both lower loops over on peg #6 and do nothing to peg #5. Next row, weave in rib stitch on all pegs. Hook over regular all pegs.

Work the Design section. Tie on a new color at 2nd stitch.

Design Section of 3 Colors:

desgin_3colors

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 3 color design is a series of 7, 5, 3, and 1 stitch of color rotating with another color. It is all done in Stockinette stitch. If you are doing 1 or 3 stitches of the color, work those stitches front to back. Then pick up other color and weave in Stockinette stitch. When you change to doing 5 or 7 stitches of a color, change to stockinette and do the other one front to back.

Start the design with (3) rows of (B) yarn. Tie on the (Y) yarn and work the design for (5) rows. After the 5 rows of the (Y) design are worked, tie and knot (B) yarn and work (3) rows of (Y) yarn only. Add the (G) yarn to next row. Work the (4) rows of design with (G) yarn. Tie and knot the (Y) yarn. Continue with (G) yarn only for another 5 rows.

After completing the Design Section, tie and knot the (G) yarn and tie on the (D) yarn.

Work in Stockinette stitch for (20) rows. Tie and knot the (D) yarn.

Change to the (B) yarn, and repeat the Design section.

After completing the 2nd design section, you are ready to do the back area of the sweater front.

Tie on the (D) yarn. Work a total of (59) rows starting with (7) rows* in rib stitch. Change to stockinette stitch and work (6) rows*.

Repeat these (13) rows* additional (3) times. Work 1 more section of rib stitch for (7) rows. The back section will be approximately 13” X 13” in size.

Work the Design section in reverse by starting with the (G) yarn.

Work another section of Stockinette stitch for (20) rows in (D) yarn.

Work the Design section in reverse by starting with the (G) yarn. Once complete, tie on the (D) yarn again.

Final section repeats the first section of (7) rows of rib stitch, (7) rows of Stockinette stitch, and (7) rows of rib stitch. This is all done in (D) yarn. Do not repeat the buttonhole.

Do a loose 2 stitch bind off at both ends for front piece. Go over the entire piece and check for yarn tails at the color changes. Make sure they are knotted securely, trim and tuck into the knit. Remove anchor yarn.

Back of Jacket:

backofjacket

Cast On in stockinette stitch (48) stitches with (D) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch.

Work (7) rows in Stockinette stitch.

Work (7) rows in rib stitch. Cut and tie (D) yarn

Work the Design section.

Complete the back with (D) yarn working (21) rows.

This is (7) rows of rib stitch, (7) rows in Stockinette stitch, and (7) rows in rib stitch.

Bind Off of loom in this manner.

Move all loops on one board to other board so that there are 2 loops on just one board and the other is empty. Work all the pegs by lifting bottom loop over top. You now have one loop on all pegs of one board.

Bind off this board in 2 loop method as before. This edge will be sewn to the back section of the sweater front.

 

Finishing:

Use matching yarn for sewing the back to front across back. Do this with invisible stitch. The top of the back piece will fit exactly to the width of the center of front piece, matching the (D) color sections.

When you sew the sides, you want to match up the design colors. For a smaller fit, sew the side seam from hem edge thru the design section. For a looser fit with more relaxed arm openings, just sew up the bottom (D) color section. Match the buttonhole with the correct location for the button and sew with matching yarn.

Your little wrap/jacket is ready to wear with just a turtleneck and jeans, or over your favorite little skirt and leggings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 Comments

  • I have an eighteen inch knittingboard loom with the metal pins. Would this pattern work on it and would I use the half inch spacer?

    Thank you.

  • Would it be possible to see a picture of the back of the jacket after it has been seemed?

    Thank you.

  • Hi Karen, If your knitting board has min of 48 stitches, it should work just fine. You may want to knit a bit and see if the 1/2″ spacer results with the same gauge or similar.

  • This is stunning, Pat! Excellent design! :)

  • I have a quick question. Why does the center portion of my double knitting arch upwards from the bottom instead of staying square.

    I have restarted this pattern about 3 times now trying to figure out what or if I am doing something wrong.

    Thanks for the help and the patterns

  • That is beautiful and I love it and plan on making it

  • This is a lovely project, Pat! Beautiful colorwork, too.

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Jun 28, 2015

Zippy Triangle Shawl

The Zippy Triangle Shawl is a breeze to knit with its large open stitches. It’s a lovely evening shoulder cover up.

Triangle_Shawl2

 

Knitting loom: Zippy loom (5 Zippy looms, connected together, 20 pegs total).

Yarn: Approximately 80 (150 for size B) yards of super bulky yarn. Sample used Loops & Threads Opus (2 skeins in Bermuda used) 42 yds/38m.

Notions: knitting tool, big eye tapestry needle.

Gauge: varies depending on thickness of yarn. Pattern is worked with the e-wrap stitch as the knit stitch.

Size:
Size A: Approximately 60″ wingspan, 22 inches in length-to the point (blocked).
Size B: Approximately: 62″ wingspan x 27 inches in length-to the point.

Pattern notes:  Connect the 5 Zippy looms together to have 20 pegs (7 Zippys for size B, total of 28 pegs).
Begin the cast on the right side.

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONSTriangle Shawl Cropped

Ewrap cast on (from left to right) 2 stitches. (Peg 1 is on the right, peg 20 is on the far left. Cast on pegs 2 and 1. Place slip knot on peg 2, ewrap peg 1.)

Row 1: Ewrap knit to end of row (Ewrap knit peg 1 and peg 2).

Row 2: Increase one stitch at the beginning of the row (Half Hitch Cast on on peg 3), purl to the end of row  (Purl peg 2 and 1).  (Recommend to use the Half Hitch cast on method: Here is a video link to Bethany Dailey’s video on the Half Hitch increase).

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: until you have increased to 20 stitches (28 stitches for size B).

Next row: Ewrap knit to the end of row

Next row: Purl to the end of row.

**Next row: Ewrap knit to the end of row.

Next row: Decrease one at the beginning of the row, purl to the end of row.**
(To decrease, move the stitch from the last peg to the adjacent peg to the right. Ex: Move loop from peg 20 to peg 19; then purl the entire row to the end (treat the peg with the two loops as one loop)

Repeat from ** to ** until you have 2 stitches remaining.

Bind off loosely with basic bind off method.

Weave all ends in. Block to open up the stitches.

Designed by Isela Phelps. (C)2015, Isela Phelps.

Special Thank you to Jeannette Pirkle for her assistance with size B of the pattern.

3 Comments

  • Hi Pat

    I first would like to say wow these Zppy looms are awesome
    What neat idea to develop these amazing easy to use looms
    This pattern is beautiful and a great design and the shawl
    Will look great with any summer dress it will dress up the
    Outfit and will make any girl feel so good its not a heavy shawl
    It a fun flirty shawl .I wanted to ask can you use a worsted
    Weight yarn #4 on the zippy loom can this pattern be worked up
    Using a lighter weight yarn ? Thañk you for keeping the patterns fresh up to date and developing new looms .

  • Hi Sherri,
    You can work this pattern with worsted weight but it will turn out completely different. It will be very, very open stitches. However, if you block it, it would be stunning open lace-like stitches.

  • Very pretty, Isela! And I love the colors in the yarn you used.

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May 15, 2015

Victoria’s Shrug

Victoria's Shrug

Evenings are still a little chilly during springtime, knit a delicate lace shrug to keep away the chill. The shrug features an easy lace detail throughout the shrug.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom with 20 peg extenders. 122 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 230 yards of worsted weight wool/silk blend yarn. Sample was worked in Juniper Moon Farm Moonshine. Color Azalea.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, row counter (optional)

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows=2inches in stockinette 

Size: S (M, L)

Small: 24 inches across (from shoulder to shoulder). 11″ in length.
Medium: 25 inches across (from shoulder to shoulder). 12″ in length. Shown
Large: 27 inches across (from shoulder to shoulder). 13″ in length

Abbreviations

p=knit

p=purl

wyib=with yarn in back

yo=yarn over

k2tog=knit two stitches together

skp=slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over.

sts=stitches

Victoria's Shrug Full Back

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 114 (122, 130) sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1- Row 8: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 9: k to the end of row.

Row 10: k2tog, k to the end of row. (113, 121, 129 sts remain)

Begin Shrug BodyVictoria's Shrug close up front

Row 1: *k1, skp, k, [yo, k1] twice, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2 and all even rows: k to the end of row.

Row 3: *k1, skp, yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *K1, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *K2, yo, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 8: k to end of row.

Rep Rows 1-8: Until panel measures approx 11 (12, 13) inches from cast on edge (or until desired length).

End Shrug Body

Next row: Cast on 1 stitch at beginning of next row (114, 122, 130 stitches on the loom). K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to end of row.

Next 7 rows: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave ends in. Block.

ASSEMBLY

Flat

Fold in half, then using the mattress stitch, seam the side of the ribbed edges to each other. See picture for assistance.

Folded in half

 

Seaming 2

Victoria's Shrug Seamed

Need assistance breaking down the stitch pattern?

Stitch Breakdown
The stitch pattern is over 8 pegs. Repeat the following instructions every 8 pegs.

Tip: Place markers every 8 pegs (Pegs 9, 17, etc.)

Row 1: k1, skp, k, [yo, k1] twice, k2tog.

  • Knit peg 1.
  • Skip peg 2 wyib.
  • Knit peg 3.
  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost loop off peg 2.
  • Knit peg 4 and move loop from peg 4 to peg 3.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 4.
  • Knit peg 5.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 8.
  • Move loop from peg 6 to peg 7.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 6.
  • Knit peg 7.
  • Knit peg 8.

Row 2 and all even rows: k to the end of row.

Row 3: k1, skp, yo, k3, yo, k2tog

  • Knit peg 1.
  • Skip peg 2 wyib.
  • Knit peg 3.
  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost loop off.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 3.
  • Knit pegs 4, 5, 6.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 8.
  • YO (ewrap) on peg 7.
  • Knit peg 8.

Row 5: K1, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1

  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4.
  • Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.
  • Knit peg 1.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 2.
  • Knit peg 3, 4, 5.
  • Skip peg 6 wyib.
  • Knit peg 7.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6. Lift bottommost loop off.
  • Knit peg 8 and move it to peg 7.
  • Yo (ewrap) peg 8.

Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1

  • Knit peg 1 and peg 2.
  • Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 3
  • Knit peg 4 and peg 5.
  • Skip peg 6 wyib.
  • Knit peg 7.
  • Move loop from peg 7 to peg 6. Lift bottommost loop off.
  • YO (ewrap) peg 7.
  • Knit peg 8.

 

5 Comments

  • hello from france!
    one video for this nice shrug?

  • what cast on would you recommend and my aio loom with extenders is only 106 pegs so I can’t do the 114 cast on for small.

  • What cast on method should be used?

    Thanks.

  • I did the regular ewrap (but then I tightened it when I was done with the project).

  • can you make a video

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Sep 27, 2014

Ameline Shawl

Amelina600

We close the month of Shawl-September with Ameline, a simple lace pattern that spreads throughout the shawl to resemble cascading drops. We hope you have enjoyed the shawls during our first Shawl-September.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom

Yarn: 620-900 yards of light worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rastita in Dewberry was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, row counter (optional), tapestry needle, eight stitch/peg markers.

Gauge: 16 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern, blocked.

Size: 16 inches x 36 inches

Abbreviations

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

Sl1: slip 1-skip one peg with yarn behind the peg.

Rep: repeat

K2tog: knit two stitches together. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left.  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Leave peg 1 empty. Treat both loops on peg 2 as one loop.

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)—special note: on the following row after creating the YO, undo the ewrap on the peg and simply lay the yarn in front of the peg.

Sl1-k1-psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg, knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1, lift bottommost loop off peg 1.

Zig Zag Stitch Pattern
Multiple of 6+1

Row 1, 3, 5 (from right to left direction): *sl1-k1-psso, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2, 4, 6: k to the end of row.

Row 7, 9, 11: k3, *YO, k2, k2tog, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, YO, k2, k2tog.

Row 8, 10, 12: k to the end of row.

Pattern note: the shawl pictured is 40 inches in length and used 600 yards of yarn, if you desire a longer shawl, you will need approximately 800 yards of yarn. A special note about yarn—we recommend using a wool base yarn to allow the lace to be blocked..

INSTRUCTIONSAmelina Shawl Close Up

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Border rows

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep last two rows four more times.

End of border rows, continue to body rows below

Tip: Place a stitch marker on pegs 1-4 and on peg 90-93. Maintain the garter stitch border on the first 4 pegs and last 4 pegs, the pegs with the stitch/peg markers on them.

Row 1: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 1, k4.

Row 2: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 2, p4.

Row 3: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 3, k4.

Row 4: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 4, p4.

Row 5: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 5, k4.

Row 6: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 6, p4.

Row 7: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 7, k4.

Row 8: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 8, p4.

Row 9: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 9, k4.

Row 10: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 10, p4.

Row 11: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 11, k4.

Row 12: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 12, p4.

Rep last 12 rows until item measures approx 34 inches from cast on edge (or desired length of shawl).

Next 10 rows: repeat the 10 border rows.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Steam block or wet block to desired measurements—blocking the item will allow the eyelets formed by the yarn overs to open up more. Tip: When blocking, use blocking wires to have straight edges.

 

8 Comments

  • can i ask a question about the ameline shawl pattern regarding the pattern rows 1, and 7 and will i receive a response. please let me know and then i will do so. thanks, debra

  • If the answer is within our knowledge, yes, if not, we will direct you where you could find the answer.

  • onr row 1 : slip peg 1, knit peg 2, move loop 2 on peg 1, k over, move loop on peg 3 to peg 2, move loop on peg 4 to 3, k2, yo k2 and repeat. is my interpretation correct?
    do u use regular knit stitch and not ewrap or ustitch.
    on row 3 i’m totally confused if i move loops to left to get empty peg and then have 2 loops on pegs. do i have to start at the end and adjust loops? can u please explain. thanks very much, debra

  • i think i’ve got it. row 3: move loop from peg 6 to 7, 5 to 6 and 4 to 5. yo peg 4 knit peg 5 and 6 and knit peg 7 which has two loops, k2 and then repeat. is this correct? thanks, debra

  • Debra,
    Row 1, 3 and 5: Work the 4 garter stitch edge stitches, then commence the Zig Zag stitch pattern as follows:
    Step 1: Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg.
    Step 2: knit peg 2.
    Step 3: move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.
    Step 4: Lift bottommost loop off peg 1.
    Step 5: Move loops as follows: from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3. 4 is empty.
    Step 6: knit peg 2 and 3.
    Step 7: YO on peg 4.
    Step 8: knit peg 5 and 6.

    Let me know if the above helps, it is over 6 pegs. The last rep of the shawl, will have the 6 stitches, plus one more stitch.

  • Thank you so much! I love your patterns and have bought quite a few over the years!

  • thanks isela for the detail description. another quick question. do you suggest regular knit stitch or can i use ewrap or uknit. thanks, debra

  • True knit stitch.

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Sep 19, 2014

Vintage Wrap

VintageWrapOpen2600

By Denise Layman

When my mother gave me this yarn from Carodan Farms a few years ago I had no idea what to do with it. That was until I found a 123 year old knitting loom on E-bay! It was an awesome find. Then I found the book that goes with it: Stewart’s Manual of Crochet Point Loopation. The stitch used for this wrap is from this 123 year old loom knitting manual, and is a perfect match for the yarn! Loom knitting has a bit of a lost history, so I am trying to bring back some stitches loom knitters used in the past. With this versatile pattern give this old stitch new life in a modern style garment or you can wear it like the loom knitters of the 1880’s might have.  So enjoy working this up and wearing a little bit of loom knitting history!

MaterialsVintagewrapwrapped600

Knitting Loom: Adjustable Hat Loom in Large gauge setting, 16 pegs.

Yarn:  approx. 400 yards of worsted weight wool yarn.  (It is especially important to use a wool or other yarn that has some ‘grab’ to it. This pattern is perfect for hand spun wool, it will not work well with acrylic or other yarns unless they have a brushed  finish  to them)  Two skeins of Carodan Farm worsted weight yarn in the color Bracken were used in the sample.  

Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting tool.

Gauge: Gauge is not so important in this pattern.

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is written so that you are working in a clockwise direction around the loom. So the beginning of your row will be on the right, and you will work your way left as you wrap.

The spread stitch is worked using two pegs, each stitch is worked one at a time over the two pegs as explained in the pattern below.

The ‘wrong side’ of your piece while working it on the loom will end up being the ‘right side’ of your finished wrap.

The spread stitch can be used in other applications, but it is definitely a large gauge stitch, it does not work well with anything but a large gauge loom.

Instructions

Cast on/set up:

 To set up for this stitch:

  1. Make a slip knot and place it on the 1st peg. [The peg to the left of your holding peg. (If working with a straight rake the sixth peg from the left side of your rake) (you will need the pegs on the right to increase))].
  2. Wrap working yarn around the 1st peg, 10 times. Peg 1 should have 11 loops.
  3. Take working yarn to 2nd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  4. Go to 3rd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  5. Go to 4th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  6. Go to 5th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  7. The 6th peg will be wrapped only once. (This will be peg A as seen below):

Vintage Wrap1 vintage wrap2

Spread Stitch:

The stitch is worked over two pegs. We will call them A and B.

Peg A is the peg on the left and peg B is the peg on the right.

Peg B will have an odd amount of loops, in this case 11.

Peg A will have one loop, with the working yarn coming from the front between pegs A and B, towards the back of peg B.

  1.  Bring the working yarn around and in back of peg B in the opposite direction (clockwise around the peg) and wrap around it once.

 

  1. Lift the top 3 stitches up and over that wrap.(They can be lifted all at once or one at a time, it makes no difference)

vintage wrap3

 

 

  1. Take the working yarn and e-wrap around peg A and knit the bottom loop over.  (You will see that you are essentially making repeated figure 8’s around these two pegs.)

vintage wrap4

 

 

Repeat these three steps until there is only one loop left on peg B.

Then shift to the right. Peg B will now be peg A, and the next peg to the right will be peg B.

Work these two pegs as above, and continue until you have worked all the way back to the beginning of your row.

There will then be 1 loop on every peg, so wrap 10 times around each peg for a total of 11 wraps, an again once around the last peg on the left and repeat.

NOTE: after the first row you will have 2 wraps on the end peg on the left when you set up the row. Before starting the spread stitch knit over that stitch so that only one loop remains.

Begin Increase section: VintageWrapclose600

To increase you will simply ‘cast on’ and extra stitch by making 11 wraps on the empty peg just to the right of the beginning of your row before wrapping the others. The working yarn will be wrapped around this peg in a clockwise manner, once you have all 11 wraps bring the working yarn between the first two pegs toward the inside of the loom and wrap the remaining stitches in the row as normal.

Increase the piece by one ‘stitch’ every other row until you have a total of 15  stitches + the peg that has a single wrap on the left end of the row for a total of  16  pegs in use.

Work even until your wrap is half the desired total length, then begin to decrease as described below.

Decrease section:

Decreases are made on the right end of the piece where the increases were made. A decrease, like the increases, is made after the entire row has been worked and there is one loop left on each peg.

To decrease: simply lift the loop on the right most peg, and move it over to the left. This loop will be considered wrap #2 on this peg so you will wrap 9 more times around the peg to make a total of 11.

Wrap and knit with the spread stitch as above, decreasing in this manner every other row until you are back down to 6 pegs.

At that point decrease by one stitch every row until there are only two pegs left.

Work that last row and when there is only one loop on each peg lift the loop from the left peg over and place it on the peg on the right.

Lift the bottom loop over the top one and knit off.

If making a Fichu, or open shoulder wrap, cut your working yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and pull the tail through the last loop remaining and remove it from the loom.

If you are finishing this as a poncho, or ‘bow tie’ style wrap then leave a tail about 3-4 yards long for seaming, and pull it through the loop to secure, and remove it from the loom.

Finishing:VintageFlying600

Note: Remember as you finish this piece what was the ‘wrong side’ or back when you were knitting, is going to be the ‘right side’ or front when you are finished with the garment.

For shawl/simple wrap or fichu wrap.

(This is most likely how loom knitters in the 1880’s may have used this stitch pattern in a garment.)

Simply weave in the ends and block as desired.

For re-enactors you may wish to knit a ‘slide’ (directions below) to hold the wrap together in the center front at the neckline.

To make a cross over style fichu, simply add a hook and eye or other closure on the ends of the wrap, place the widest part of the wrap across your shoulders, cross it in the front and secure the ends at the center lower back with the closure.

 Poncho/bow tie style wrap:

To make a poncho or bow tie style wrap you will need to seam the piece in a spiral. Lay the piece out on a table and  basically roll it up starting with one end matching up the edges as you go work with the piece until you have a ‘roll’ that will be wide enough to go around your shoulders. You will want to make this a little looser for the poncho, and a little on the snug side for the bow tie style wrap.

To seam, use the yarn tail you left at cast off and run the working yarn through the spread stitches at the edge of the garment alternating back and forth between the two edges being joined.

Once you have the piece joined try it on and adjust the seam for flexibility as needed. Then trim and weave in the ends.

Slide piece for Fichu, or Bow Tie style wrap:

To make a ‘slide’ to gather the center of your bow tie wrap, simply take some of the yarn (or a contrasting yarn if desired) and make a strip about 2 inches wide on your loom in stockinet stitch. Make this piece as long as you desire, or need to wrap around and gather wrap, or secure the wrap in the center and cast off.

For a Fichu slide, simply seam the cast on and cast off end of this piece to create a loop.

For the Bow Tie style wrap, wrap the ‘slide around the part of the wrap that you wish to gather and seam the ends.

You may wish to run a few stitches through the wrap itself to secure the ‘slide’ in place. Weave in the ends and enjoy!

3 Comments

  • So pretty! It’s so very interesting how it resembles the Chain Lace Stitch…like its I-Cord cousin, lol! Love that it’s such an old stitch, too! It definitely makes a lovely shawl. :)

  • can anyone tell me what the 3 loop bind off is?

  • Love this wrap! Fun to see it featured again. And the photos are fabulous!

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Sep 12, 2014

Mystic Shawl- Double knit

mysticshawlJust enough warmth – cover the shoulders and back with this beautiful shawl.  Knit in Open Braid Stitch with soft, random stripes, and knit in 3 easy pieces. Great for beginner to advanced knitters. One size will fit most.  48” from back tip to front edges.

Needed:

Loom: 28” Knitting Board + ext, or original 28″ Knitting Board

Notions: Knit Hook, Crochet hook and darning needle

Yarn: Worsted weight roving yarn, 260 yds per skein. green=(5) skeins  blue=(1) skein

Sides of this shawl are rectangular.  The center back is knit in a square shape that joins the front with shoulder seams, and falls to point in back.

Long Front Sides:  (knit 2)

Cast On (56) stitches with green yarn.  Lay anchor yarn. See box for review of Open Braid Stitch.

With each color change, we will cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color

Knit (12) rows in green.

Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut green and knot.

Knit (2) rows in blue.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit (20) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (6) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit(10) rows.

Bind Off board.

Bind Off at anchor yarn.

Knit the 2nd piece of Long Front Side

Square Back Piece:

Cast On (64) Stitches in Green.

Lay anchor yarn.

Knit (8) rows in green.

 

Open Braid Stitch:

Weave yarn around needle #1 on top board, down to needle #4 on bottom board. (closest to knitter). Weave every other needle to end.  End stitches will be consecutive.  Return to cover all needles skipped.  Hook over all.

Tie in Blue.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Decrease (1) stitch at beginning of each row for (8) rows.

After first decrease, start row on needles #2 and #5.  Use this row start on every other row.  In other words, for these (8) decrease rows, start row 1,3,5,7 on needles #2 and #5.  The other rows, start on the usual #1 and #4.  This adjustment will keep the Open Braid in correct sequence.

Bind Off of board and Anchor yarn.

Finishing:

Sew one short end of Front piece to Back matching to decrease edge.

Sew 2nd side of Front to Back matching the other side of decrease edge.

The decrease corner of back is at the back of neck.

 

Optional:  You may choose to add fringe to the front bottom edges.  You may also want to add a hidden snap at front neckline to secure the shawl.  The shape of the shawl stays put on your shoulders and our sample does not have a fastener.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl

During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

LH9A5457cropKnitting loom: All-n-One Loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.

 

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.

sts=stitches.

Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Meadowbrook-chart

Divider

Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 

 

19 Comments

  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Does K2tog and Ssk mean exactly the same thing? They both say knit two stitches together as one stitch.

  • I wish you would make a video tutorial. This is a very advanced pattern and at the risk of sounding like a dingbat, it’s just very complicated. I am a tactile learner and would very much benefit from a video showing how to do the stitches. I am new to looming and don’t even know how to read the chart above. What does each symbol represent? I have no clue.

  • Oh, duh, I now see the key at the bottom of the chart. I still would really do better with a video tutorial. Thanks!! These shawls are gorgeous!!

  • Mary, the k2tog leans to the right, the ssk leans to the left. They are done a little differently, both over two pegs, going from Right to Left, peg 1 on the right peg 2 on the left. k2tog-move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both loops as one loop. ssk-move stitch from peg 2 over to peg 1, knit peg 1 treating both loops on peg as one loop, now move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.

  • Is there a way to make this wider than 18″? I like this stitch pattern but would like to see if it can be made between 18 & 24 inches wide.

  • Sherry, I believe I missed a peg there–I think Step 1 should read as follows: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

  • Could you please give more details on row 7?

  • Jennifer, on Row 7 of the Meadowbrook Shawl? From the chart?

  • Yes,for the Meadowbrook Shawl, like you did for row 1. I’m sure it’s not that complicated for most, but I can’t figure out what the exact steps would be. I’m mainly unclear on the k2tog and ssk with the yo on either side. For the k2tog, the basic instructions say to move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2, but the detailed instructions for row 1 say to move the loop on peg 2 to peg 1. I realize the peg 2 loop goes under the peg 1 loop resulting in basically the same outcome, but because of the difference in the two instructions I’m not sure if, on row 7, the loop on peg 11 gets moved to peg 10 under the existing loop or if peg 10 loop gets moved to peg 11. Same with the ssk on pegs 4 & 5.

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May 9, 2014

Anwell Capelet

Anwell Capelet 1

A little capelet to keep the chill away. Worked in short-rows to create a semi-circular shape at the back. 

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, use two pegs as one peg to create a large gauge knitting loom with at least 30 pegs (60 total) for child, 40 (80 total) for adult.

Both sizes can also be worked on the new ADJUSTABLE HAT LOOM, set at large gauge, using 30 pegs for child, and 40 pegs for the adult size. 

Yarn: 200 (600) grams of Bulky Weight yarn. Rowan Big Wool was used in sample, 2 skeins. (Malabrigo Chunky was used in adult sample).

Notions: knitting tool, 1 inch button, 1 set of snap button.

Gauge: 11 stitches and 18 rows=4 inches in stockinette stitch (Remember to use 2 pegs as one on the All-n-One Knitting loom).
Measurements: 25 (from side to side) x 14 (back of neck to edge) inches.

Fits: 3-5 years old (adult)

Abbreviations
k: knit
p:purl
WT: wrap & turn
sts: stitches
rep:repeat
Pattern note: Instructions within () pertain to adult size

DIRECTIONSAnwell Capelet

Cast on 30 (40) stitches with crochet cast on method (remember that you are using 2 pegs as one on the knitting loom, so for the child size, you will be using 60 pegs total; adult 40 pegs).
Create the ribbing edge as follows:
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Repeat last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Wedge instructions

Row 1: k to the end of row
Row 2: Sl1, k26 (k36), WT
Row 3: k27 (k37)
Row 4: Sl1, k23 (k33), WT
Row 5: k24 (k34)
Row 6: Sl1, k20 (k30), WT
Row 7: k21 (k31)
Row 8: Sl1, k17 (k27), WT
Row 9: k18 (k28)
Row 10: Sl1, k14 (k24), WT
Row 11: k15 (k25)
Row 12: Sl1, k11 (k21), WT
Row 13: k12 (k22)
Row 14: Sl1, k8 (k18), WT
Row 15: k9 (k19)
Row 16: Sl1, k5 (k15), WT
Row 17: k6 (k16)
Adult size:
Row 18: Sl1, k12, WT
Row 19: k13
Row 20: Sl1, k9, WT
Row 21: k10

All sizes:
Next row: Sl1, p to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way
Next row: k to the end of row

One wedge completed.

Child size: work 9 wedges.
Adult size: work 13 wedges.

Last wedge: rep Rows 2-17 (2-21).
Next row: Sl1, k to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way.
Next row: knit to the end of row.

Create ribbing edge as follows:

Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Cast on 6 stitches at the beginning of next row. (Adult size: please see Adding Pegs to a Fixed peg loom video)
Next: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.
Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.
Rep last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Bind off with basic bind off method.
Assembly
Seam the collar edge to the body of the capelet and to the other edge of the ribbing edge. Steam block.

Decoration: attach the 1 inch button on the right side of the ribbed collar, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. Secure a snap button on the wrong side of the collar, again, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. ?

 

 

 

8 Comments

  • This is so cute. Can’t wait to make it.

  • Thank you, Isela, for this adorable pattern that my granddaughter will love! If you recommend an AIO loom and are wrapping it in such a way that it mimics a large-gauge loom, is it safe to assume that if I have a large-gauge loom with a sufficient number of pegs that I could use that instead? I don’t have the AIO.

    Thanks again!

  • It looks like it would work on a regular-gauge loom. 2 pegs = 1 peg, so I don’t see why not. Wouldn’t hurt to try :)

  • Yes, it would work on a large gauge loom, not regular, but large gauge.

  • We should do this as a loom along on Facebook. I would love to make his but i am not sure it would come out as it is suppose to.

  • We will consider it for a future loom-a-long.

  • Can anyone help me out with the afghan loom? I have started over several times, but the knit is so tight that I am afraid the pegs will break. What am I doing wronge? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

  • Knit one peg at a time. After casting on, knit one peg at a time, wrapping the entire loom and then lifting the stitches can make the stitches really tight. Also, you may want to try a yarn that has a natural fiber content, like wool, so it has some inherent elasticity and has a bit more give.

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