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Aug 28, 2015

Button-Up Romeos

Button-Up Romeos- header

These oh-so-cozy, yet ruggedly durable slippers are the perfect thing to get your tender feet through the chilly months ahead! Designed for both Men and Women, the thick knit and leather soles make these Romeos the go-to footwear this Fall/Winter season.  

Button-Up Romeos-women's

Knitting loom: KB Hat Loom (set to 24-28 pegs in the large gauge).

Yarn:   1 (1.5) skein Wool Ease Thick & Quick (108 yrds per skein) (samples in oatmeal and denim), super bulky #6 weight, worked along with 1 (1.75) skein of bulky #5 weight decorative yarn of your choice (samples use Red Heart Curly Q (150 yrds per skein) in mexicali and Loops & Threads Charisma (109 yrds per skein) in mountain majesty)

Notions: set of leather soles, 2 large decorative buttons, loom tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, yarn needle, row counter, measuring tape, sewing needle and thread or thinner weight yarn (for stitching on leather soles).

Gauge: 4.5 stitches and 6 rows per 2”

Finished Slipper Measurements:

Women’s Size 7.5-8.5:

Circumference: 10.5”

Length: Adjustable to size (heel/toe=2.5”) (Sample’s total length measures 10”)

Men’s Size 9.5-10.5:

Circumference: 12.5”

Length: Adjustable to size (heel/toe=3”) (Sample’s total length measures 11.75”)

Skills Needed: E-wrap, Purl, Double Wrap Short Row Method (shown in video links and step by steps below), Half Hitch CO (or CO of your choice), and Basic BO.


Button-Up Romeos-chillCO: cast on

EW: E-wrap

P: purl stitch

KO: knit off

St(s): stitches

WY: working yarn

BO: Bind off

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is created for ladies size 7.5-8.5, with men’s size 9.5-10.5 listed in parenthesis ( ).  If you’d prefer a smaller or larger size, just add or decrease pegs/rows as needed.

As this is working with very bulky yarns, keep tension loose throughout.

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Common Shoe Size Measurements

Heel and Toe Part 1 & Part 2

Pattern Instructions:

Set loom to 28 pegs in large gauge.  CO to 24 (28) of the pegs to work as a panel, centering stitches on a long section of the loom.

**Note: CO in a clockwise direction for the left slipper and a counterclockwise direction for the right slipper. (Sample uses the Half Hitch CO, but any CO of preference will be fine.)

Rows 1-10 (12): Work in the following 2 row pattern:

A: S1, EW23 (27)

B: S1, P22 (26), EW1

Button Loop: Working on Peg 1 only, EW and KO 10 times.

Rows 11-20 (13-24): EW24 (28)


Place stitch markers on pegs 7, 11, 14, 18 (8, 13, 16, 21). These will be helpful while turning the heel/toe.

Row 21 (25): Turn heel (Step by step instructions on turning the heel/toe are listed at the bottom of the pattern.)

Row 22 (26): EW24 (28) (KO 3 over 1 on peg 6 (7) ).


Rows 23-36 (27-44): EW24 (28).

*Note: The number of rows in this section is easily adjusted to accommodate the intended shoe size. Simply work until the entire length of knitting measures the total length desired for slipper, minus 2.5” (3”).


Row 37 (45): Repeat the same steps used to turn the heel.

Row 38 (46): Repeat Row 22.

Wrap the #5 decorative yarn around the loom once. Cut this yarn strand here.

BBO all pegs. Wrap the #6 yarn strand around the loom twice. Cut this yarn strand here.


The slipper will now be seamed up in a “T” shaped manner. It might help to pin slipper edges in place before proceeding to ensure an even seam. Use the #5 weight yarn tail to seam up the toe, and the #6 weight yarn to seam up the top of the slipper until 1” (1.5”) ( below the button loop. Knot securely at this point.

Stitch the button onto the side opposite the button loop so that it still shows when the cuff is folded down.

Weave in all ends and trim close to work.

Button-Up Romeos-StitchingWork all steps once more for the second slipper, making sure to CO in the opposite direction as the first slipper so the button loop will be worked on the correct side.

Using a needle and thread or lighter weight yarn, stitch the leather bottoms securely in place. (Sample uses a blanket stitch, but an overhand stitch will work as well.)


**Step by Step Double Wrap Short Row Instructions:

To wrap and turn (W&T): Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.

  • EW18 (21), W&T peg 19 (22).
  • EW12 (14) to peg 7 (8), W&T peg 6 (7).
  • EW11 (13) to peg 17 (20), W&T peg 18 (21).
  • EW10 (12) to peg 8 (9), W&T peg 7 (8).
  • EW9 (11) to peg 16 (19), W&T peg 17 (20).
  • EW8 (10) to peg 9 (10), W&T peg 8 (9).
  • EW7 (9) to peg 15 (18), W&T peg 16 (19).
  • EW6 (8) to peg 10 (11), W&T peg 9 (10).
  • EW5 (7) to peg 14 (17), W&T peg 15 (18).
  • EW4 (6) to peg 11 (12), W&T peg 10 (11).
  • (Men’s Size: EW5 to peg 16, W&T peg 17.)
  • (Men’s Size: EW4 to peg 13, W&T peg 12.)

Increasing Begins: Each W&T will make a total of 3 loops on that peg (lift both wraps and loops already on W&T peg as one, then W&T), and the peg before the W&Ts will be KO 2 loops over 1, then 3 loops over 1 as the pegs increase.

  • EW4 (4) to peg 14 (16), W&T peg 15 (17).
  • EW5 (5) to peg 10 (12), W&T peg 9 (11).
  • EW6 (6) to peg 15 (17), W&T peg 16 (18).
  • EW7 (7) to peg 9 (11), W&T peg 8 (10).
  • EW8 (8) to peg 16 (18), W&T peg 17 (19).
  • EW9 (9) to peg 8 (10), W&T peg 7 (9).
  • EW10 (10) to peg 17 (19), W&T peg 18 (20).
  • EW11 (11) to peg 7 (9), W&T peg 6 (8).
  • Women’s Size: EW18 to peg 24 (KO 3 over 1 on peg 18 and KO 2 over 1 on peg 19). Women’s Size heel/toe is complete.
  • (Men’s Size: EW12 to peg 20, W&T peg 21).
  • (Men’s Size: EW13 to peg 8, W&T peg 7).
  • (Men’s Size: EW21 to peg 28 (KO 3 over 1 on peg 21, and KO 2 over 1 on peg 22). Men’s Size heel/toe is complete.

Heel/Toe Video Tutorial, if needed:

 Heel and Toe Part I

Heel and Toe Part 2

*To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post. :)

Button-Up Romeos


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Mar 6, 2015

Lucky Shamrock Beanie

Shamrock Beanie

St. Patrick’s is around the corner! Wip out this lucky shamrock beanie for one of your loved ones or for yourself. The stitch pattern is an 8 stitch repeat, making it an easy stitch pattern to use on smaller or bigger hats, or other projects in the round. An awesome unisex design. Want a slouchy style instead of a tight fitting beanie? Work more rounds in the italicized section in the pattern. 


Knitting Loom: All-n-One knitting loom, set at 72 pegs (or any configuration of multiple of 8).

Yarn: Approx 140 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit using Knit Picks in Citrine (MC) and Macaw (CC).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 9 sts x 14 rows=2 inches in stockinette

Size: Size shown fits up to a 19.5″ head. To create smaller or larger sizes, simply cast on a number that is a multiple of 8 (56, 64, 72, 80).

AbbreviationsShamrock Chart Property of Isela Phelps

K: knit stitch. Recommend the knit stitch or the u-stitch; do not recommend the flat stitch or the ewrap.

P: purl stitch

CO: cast on (Sample uses the ewrap cast on to provide an elastic fit).

BO:bind off

GBO: gather bind off

Rep: repeat

Rnd: round

MC: Main color

CC: Contrasting color

PU: Pick up

K2tog: knit two stitches together. A right slanting decrease.

Pattern notes:Shamrock Beanie Side View

  1. When working with two strands of yarn on the same row, be sure to pick up the yarns in the same order throughout the project.  View this video for a few tips on working with colorwork.
  2. Work your colorwork loosely, if you pull on the yarn too tight, the knitted fabric will pucker up.
  3. Wet block or steam block after knitting.
  4. Work chart from the bottom up, and every round starts on the right.


Set up the All-n-One loom to 72 pegs (or any other multiple of 8 stitches).

Using MC, cast on 72 stitches, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 9-11: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: Join CC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13: PU, MC, p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14-16: Cont with MC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 17-24: Follow chart to create the shamrocks.

Rnd 25-28: With MC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 29: PU CC, p to the end of rnd.

Cut CC leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.

Rnd 30-50: With MC, k to the end of rnd. Cut MC, leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.Shamrock Beanie Top view

Join CC.

Rnd 51-54: k to the end of rnd.

Decrease rounds

Rnd 55: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.

How to:

Move the stitches from the odd numbered pegs to the even numbered pegs. Knit the round, skipping the pegs with no stitches and treating the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Remove stitches from the loop to a piece of scrap yarn—this is temporary.

Readjust the knitting loom to the new peg number configuration: 36 pegs. (Divide the cast on number of pegs by 2).

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom.

Gently tug on each of the stitches, starting with the first peg, to remove any of the extra slack in the yarn.

Rnd 56: Rep Rnd 55.

Bind off with the gather removal method. Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.

Weave all ends in.

Steam block or wet block to set the stitches.

Link to a video showing Working with Color


  • I really like this pattern. I would like to download this pattern. Will that be available anytime soon?

  • thanks so much for sharing – ST. PATRICKS DAY is my birthday so yes I will be making one of thiese……………….

  • On round 25-28 did you mean MC?

  • Download? You mean as a PDF. They are put in PDF format after being on the blog for six months. In the meantime, you can copy it and paste it onto a word document and save it that way.

  • Yes. MC.

  • Isela what a clever pattern. I’m so glad to see you still posting patterns. I started loom knitting 2 years ago, I was quite late to the party, but I learned sooooo much from your videos.You’re a fantastic teacher.

  • Where do I learn how to read these patterns. I am totally confused

  • Well, learning to read patterns is a bit like learning to read. Each pattern comes with a list of abbreviations. I guess the first step is to learn the abbreviations and what they mean. Next, start reading the pattern, if needed, replace the abbreviation with the complete term. In pattern writing, it is best to be concise, however, if you prefer, you can use the entire term, if it makes it easier to understand. Once you get to the pattern itself. A number next to a letter or term typically means that you work that many stitches (the number). Example: k2=knit two stitches (knit two pegs). Another example: Sl 3=slip 3 stitches (skip 3 stitches with yarn behind the pegs). Does this help a little?

  • I do not know any other way to reach you. May I please have some info on 2 projects On the AIO headband with crochet flower, I tried to use a #4 weight 100% wool. I was into the pattern and looked at it on the right side, the stitches were large. Your picture showed a tiny row of stitches. What did I do wrong?
    next? on the cats paw headband what yarn did you use? what weight? color?

    Thank you for your help

  • The one with the crochet flower: I just worked the knit stitch. Nothing different or fancy. My tension is the same throughout.

    Cats Paw Headband: it looks like Knit Picks Shine in worsted weight. Don’t have the color way written anywhere. It was yarn left over from another project.

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