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Apr 3, 2015

Classic Easter Basket

Easter Basket Loom Knitted Small

Knit a lovely Easter Basket for your little ones. Created with the typical basket weave stitch and a lovely picot edging.

Knitting Loom: 80 peg regular gauge loom. Adjustable Hat Loom used in sample (All-n-One can be used).

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit with Knit Picks Comfy worsted in Sea Foam (1 skein) and Crème Brulee (1 skein).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Other: Ultra Stiff Mesh Plastic Canvas, size 12 x 18 inches—used to hold the basket shape and for the handle. The mesh plastic canvas may be removed to facilitate washing.

Size: Approx 6.5 inches tall (not including handle) by 5.5 diameter.

Gauge: 18 sts x 28 rows=4 inches in basket weave (blocked).

Abbreviations

CC=Contrasting Color (Sea Foam)

CO=Cast on

K=knit stitch

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from odd number peg and hold it, then move the loop from the even number peg and place it on the odd number peg. Place the loop you are holding back on the peg, odd numbered peg has 2 loops on it. Knit the peg with the two loops, and treat both loops as one loop.

MC=Main Color (Crème Brulee)

P=purl stitch

Rem=Remain

Rep=Repeat

Rnd=round

St(s)=stitch(es)

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap the empty peg. On the following row, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg, then work the peg as instructed on this row.

INSTRUCTIONS

Handle

Using CC, Cast on 10 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 49 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Basket

Using CC, Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-3: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 4: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5-7: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 8: Bring CO rnd and place the loops back on the designated pegs. K to the end of rnd, treating both loops on each peg as one loop.

Cut CC yarn and join MC.

Rnd 9-12: *k4, p4; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13-16: *p4, k4; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 9-16: 4 more times.

Rep Rnds 9-12.

Cut MC, join CC.

Next 6 rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Bottom of Basket—created in 4 wedges; each one done separately over 20 stitches as flat panels.

Wedge 1
Over 20 pegs (from peg 1 to peg 20).

**Row 1: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

How to:

  1. Lift and hold loop from peg 3.
  2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 3.
  3. Place loop from step 1 on peg 3. Peg 3 has 2 loops on it.
  4. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.
  5. Go to third peg from the end, lift loop and hold it.
  6. Go to the second peg from the end, move the loop to the empty peg from step 5.
  7. Place loop from step 5 back on peg. Third peg from the end has 2 loops on it.
  8. Move loop on last peg to the empty peg (second peg from the end).
  9. K the row, treat pegs with two loops as one loop (Pegs 3 and 19).

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until 4 sts rem.

Next row: k2tog, k2tog.

Next row: p to the end row.

Next row: k2tog

Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch yarn tail. **

Join yarn at peg 21, leaving a 10 inch beginner yarn tail (Beginning yarn tail will be used to mattress stitch wedges). How to join—Make a slip knot and place slip knot on peg 21.

Rep Wedge Instructions from ** to **.

Wedge 2: Over 20 sts, from peg 21-40.

Wedge 3: Over 20 sts, from peg 41-60.

Wedge 4: Over 20 sts, from peg 61-80.

ASSEMBLY

The assembly of this basket is done in two different areas: one on the knitted basket, the second on the plastic canvas.

Assembling the Basket

The first step is to create the bottom ridge: the area that will separate the body of the basket from the bottom of the basket. This area is created from the last six rounds of stockinette stitch prior to the wedges. Thread tapestry needle with approx 20″ CC color yarn. Using the wrong side of the fabric, locate the last round of MC and the 6th round of stockinette stitch and using the overcast stitch, sew all the way around. (Use picture below for assistance).

Creating bottom ridge of easter basket 2

 

Assembling the Wedges

There are 4 wedges, using the mattress stitch and using the yarn tail coming from the first row of the wedge, mattress stitch seam the wedges together. (Use photos below for assistance).

Bottom of Easter Basket 2

Creating the Canvas Inner Tube and Handle

Inner Basket Canvas Tube

Cut the plastic canvas to the height of the basket: measure the height of your basket (only measure the MC section).  Do not cut the length (for the circumference).

Using white yarn or the same color yarn as the project (sample used same as project). Overlap the canvas so that the circumference is the desired measurement, using the tapestry needle and thread, sew the canvas. (See pictures below for assistance).

Plastic Inner Tube

Handle

Cut the plastic canvas for the handle: 1.25 inches wide by 15 inches long. Sew this handle to the tube.

 

Insert tube inside the knitted fabric. (See picture below).

Mattress stitch seam the handle to the plastic canvas handle. Secure the ends of the knitted fabric to the plastic canvas, pulling the knitted fabric to cover the entire plastic handle.

handle seaming

Using CC yarn, sew the knitted fabric to the inner tube.

Seam fabric to easter basket

 

Looking for the Chubby Bunny Pattern? Click here for the Chubby Bunny Pattern by Adrian Roadman.

Chubby Bunny 2 w logo

1 Comment

  • Thank you so much Isela for another great pattern!!! I think I’ll make one to hold my yarn so it don’t go rolling all round! LOL

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Feb 20, 2015

Easter Egg Cozy

Easter Egg Cozy small

Easter is so full of color and warmth. Decorating for this time of year brings a smile to my children’s face. I created this little egg cozy as a way to bring a smile to their face Easter morning when they opened the fridge. The design is small and you can complete a small cozy in less than 2 hours.

PATTERN INFORMATION

Knitting Loom: Knitting loom in regular gauge. Samples were knit using All-n-One knitting loom (AIO)

Yarn: Approx 25 yds of worsted weight wool for body. Approx 10  inches of contrasting color yarn for embroidery. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Pink and Black (for the face embroidery) for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy. Sample used Knit Pick Swish Worsted in White and Pink (approx 15 yards of each color).

Notions: knitting tool, and tapestry needle.

Gauge: 10.5 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stockinette (not blocked)

Size: Fits a large size egg.

Abbreviations

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

CO: cast on (Sample uses the ewrap cast on).

BO:bind off

BBO: basic bind off

Rep: repeat

St(s): stitch(es)

Rem:remain

MC=Main color (pink for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy; White for Colorwork Egg Cozy).

CC: Contrasting color (black for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy; Pink for Colorwork Egg Cozy).

PU: Pick up

Pattern notes: After the item is complete, go back to the cast on edge and tighten it by pulling off the extra slack of yarn. Use this video on how to tighten the e-wrap cast on.

INSTRUCTIONS

Easter Bunny Egg Cozy

Set the AIO knitting loom to 24 pegs (see picture). 7 pegs from each long rail and 5 pegs from each of the two sliders. If you have two Sock Loom 2s, you can set one up with 2 sock loom sliders. The Sock Loom 2 with the 2 sliders, would be easier to maneuver.

Loom Set Up 2

Using MC, cast on 24 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1: P to the end of round.

Round 2: K to the end of round.

Round 3: P to the end of round.

Round 4-18: K to the end of round.

***Decrease rounds:

*Loosen the bolts, slide each slider in ONE peg (thus decreasing by 4 stitches), tighten the bolts up again. Move the loops on the outside corner pegs (the loops that are not in the new square) to the inside pegs.

Next round: K to the end of round (treat the pegs with 2 loops as 1 loop).

Next round: k*

Repeat from * to *: 2 more times. 16 stitches rem.

Last rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to end of round.

How to:

Move loop from Peg 1 to Peg 2; knit peg 2.

Move loop from Peg 3 to Peg 4; knit peg 4. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

**Tug gently on the working yarn to remove any slack on the yarn.**

Move loop from Peg 5 to Peg 6; knit peg 6. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 5. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Rep from ** to **.

Move loop from Peg 7 to peg 8; knit peg 8. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 7. Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 5. Rep from ** to **.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 10; knit peg 10. Move loop from peg 8 to peg 9. Move loop from peg 7 to peg 8. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 7. Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Rep from ** to **.

Continue in this pattern all around moving the loop from the odd numbered pegs to the even number peg, knit the peg with the two loops. Before proceeding to the next set of pegs, move all the other loops closer, then tug gently on the working yarn to eliminate any extra slack.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.***

Ears
(make 2)

Set the knitting loom at 16 pegs (3 from each of the long rails, and 5 from each slider).

Usng MC, leaving a 10 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 10 stitches, only on the two sliders. Cast on 5 on one slider, then go directly to the opposite slider and continue casting on the other 5 stitches on this slider, join to work in the round.

Rounds 1-14: k to the end of round.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

With cast on tail, sew securely to the sides of the body.

Face

Using CC, embroider the little eyes, nose and mouth. Weave all ends in.

Colorwork Easter Egg Cozy

Set up knitting loom the same as for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy

Using MC, cast on 24 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1: P to the end of round.

Round 2: K to the end of round.

Round 3: P to the end of round.

Round 4 and 5: K to the end of round.

Round 6: Join CC, using MC, knit every odd peg. PU CC, knit every even peg.

Round 7: PU CC, k to the end of round.

Round 8: Rep Round 6.

Round 9 and 10: PU MC,  k to the end of round.

Round 11-13: PU CC, k to the end of round.

Round 14: Rep round 6. Cut CC, leaving a 6 inch tail.

Round 15-18: Continue with MC, k to the end of round.

Continuing with MC, rep from *** to *** from Easter Bunny Egg Cozy instructions (Decrease rounds to gather bind off). Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

3 Comments

  • Hello,I love,love,love Loom Knitting but I have 1 question…I have 2 sets of knifty knitter looms and some more that didnt come in packs..I bought on line the loom clip and it doesent fit on any of my long looms,..My smallest loom is 12 peg round and counting one side of long loom 18 pegs (all pegs 36)..Anyway i have been try to make baby booties&babysocks (all newborn) & im havin a tough time,the clip doesnt fit&the blue round 24 peg is to big and the 12 peg seems to small (i really dont know) whatever bootie or sock patter,i do on the 12 never comes out right and the blue like i said too big..Please Help..THANK YOU?

  • Hello,I love,love,love Loom Knitting but I have 1 question…I have 2 sets of knifty knitter looms and some more that didnt come in packs..I bought on line the loom clip and it doesent fit on any of my long looms,..My smallest loom is 12 peg round and counting one side of long loom 18 pegs (all pegs 36)..Anyway i have been try to make baby booties&babysocks (all newborn) & im havin a tough time,the clip doesnt fit&the blue round 24 peg is to big and the 12 peg seems to small (i really dont know) whatever bootie or sock patter,i do on the 12 never comes out right and the blue like i said too big..Please Help..THANK YOU?

  • You can probably knit one as a flat panel and then seam it down the length. It would not be as easy as working in the round, but it would work.

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Feb 9, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – Little Bits of Love

Little Bits of Love

With just a pinch of fingering weight yarn and a smidge of time, you can ‘have a heart’, ‘put your heart into it’, ‘wear your heart on your sleeve’… or just knit these sweet little hearts to ‘your heart’s content’ and then sprinkle a little bit of love on the darlings in your life.

IMG_2944 (800x619)

Materials:

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom EFG

Yarn:  Each heart requires approximately 3 yards of a light fingering weight yarn.  Various sock yarns were used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle

Finished Size:  Each knitted heart is approximately 1” by 1.25”

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques:

     M1: Make 1.  (For this pattern, the increases are made simply by casting a new stitch onto the nearest peg.)

     Sl 1: Slip 1.  (Skip the peg.)

Instructions:

Cast on 1 stitch.

Row 1:  K1

Row 2:  P1

Row 3:  M1, K1

Row 4:  M1, P2

Row 5:  M1, K3

Row 6:  M1, P4

Row 7:  M1, K5

Row 8:  M1, P6

Row 9:  M1, K7

Row 10: M1, P8

Row 11: M1, K9

Row 12: M1, P10

Row 13: M1, K11

There should now be 12 stitches on the loom.  Create the left swell of the heart by working rows 14 – 18, back and forth over just the first 6 stitches on the loom:

IMG_2937 (800x591)

Row 14: Sl 1, P5

Row 15: Sl 1, K5

Row 16: Sl 1, P2tog, P1, P2tog

Row 17: Sl 1, K2tog, K1

Row 18: Sl 1, P2tog.

Bind off the last 2 stitches of the left swell using the basic bind off method.  Cut the yarn, leaving a yarn end measuring about 3 inches in length.

Create the right swell of the heart by working rows 14 – 18, back and forth over the remaining 6 stitches on the loom.

IMG_2938 (800x586)

Bind off the last 2 stitches of the right swell using the basic bind off method.  Cut the yarn, leaving a yarn end measuring about 3 inches in length.

The project will look like this:

IMG_2939 (800x800)

Thread the yarn end from the left swell into the yarn needle.  Take the needle down through the center of the heart, between the two swells:

IMG_2940 (800x800)

Pull the yarn end through firmly to shape the left swell.  Weave the end in securely on the back of the heart.

Thread the yarn end from the right swell into the yarn needle.  Take the needle down through the center of the heart, between the two swells.

IMG_2941 (800x800)

Pull the yarn end firmly to shape the right swell.  Weave the end in securely on the back of the heart.

Weave in the remaining two yarn ends.  The finished heart will look like this:

IMG_2942 (800x800)

From my heart to yours, Happy Knitting!

11 Comments

  • I have a fine gauge adjustable sock loom and I’m able to do the knit and pearl stitches well.
    But I’m having a lot of trouble doing the flat stitch to turn the heel. I’ve tried doing it also with the CD that came with the loom and I get holes, runs and/or the stitches just don’t look right. Can anyone give me some advise?

    Thanks,
    Cindy

  • Hello Cindy! KB has a 2 part tutorial on knitting the heel section of a sock. I know you’ve watched one from a CD, but sometimes it can be helpful to see things explained in another way. Hopefully these clips will help you out. You can find them here:

    Part 1:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e3J0fuYz-U

    Part 2:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDCtTqjDDPE

    After you’ve watched these clips and given it another try, I hope you will get in touch again if you are still having trouble with heels. I’d be glad to trouble shoot with you further, if you need more help :)

  • Thanks Jenny, I’ll give it a try. Do I have to rip out the entire sock to start again, or is there away that I can just rip out the heel? Also, when I do the flat stitch it seems to turnout really tight.

    Thanks again,
    Cindy

  • Without having a look at the sock you are working on, it’s hard for me to say one way or another. That being said, I do like to avoid a complete undo if at all possible. I found a video tutorial for you on fixing mistakes in circular knitting that might be useful for you. It is for needle knitting, but the process is pretty similar for loom knitting:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDCtTqjDDPE

    Hope that helps. Have a great night!

  • Thanks, I’ll give it a try. I’ll let you know how it works out. Have a great day!

  • Greetings all you Knitting Board Pioneers! I’m new to the community and the Knitting Board world and need a little advice. One of the baby Bootie patterns on the site that I want to make calls for the Tadpole Loom, and another calls for the 10″ Knitting Board. I already have Sock Loom 2, and the 28″ expandable Knitting Board, not to mention the entire collection of Knifty Knitter Looms. I have found that I prefer Knitting Board to Knifty Knitter, so I want to have the looms I need from the Knitting Board line. So here’s my question…

    The Tadpole has 16 pegs per side and is not adjustable. The 10″ board has 24 pegs per side and IS adjustable, not to mention begins in the same 5/16″ measurement as the Tadpole. It seems to me that instead of buying both, I should be able to do the baby booties I want (which calls for the Tadpole) and even more on the 10″ Knitting Board. So, rather than buying both the Tadpole and the 10″ Knitting Board, am I correct in assuming I could buy ONLY The 10″ board and be able to do the booties I want plus the versatility to do even more??

    Oh – one other question…is anyone familiar with the Knitting Board Basics book available for sale on The Knitting Board site? Is this a good book for beginners? I purchased the Loom Knitting for Toddlers and Infants and find that I haven’t truly loved any of the patterns and also am in a strange new world of knitting pattern abbreviations, even though the book has a great introduction as well as me being a previous needle knitter who was able to read patterns. What is anyone (or better, everyone)’s take on the Knitting Board Basics book? Am I just as well to get my tuteledge from the KB site tutorials and you fine folks, or do you think this book will truly help me?

    Please give me some feedback on these 3 items – Tadpole vs 10″ board and Knitting Board Basics book.

    Thanks so much. it is qbsolutely invaluable to have you all out there!!!

  • Dear Cindy, trying to do a flat stitch on the Sock loom:

    Hi! I am brand new too! The tutorials show the working yarn being laid straight across the front (working side) of the loom and just kinda being held straight across the loom loosely while you flip your stitches. I found that impossible so Each time I pull the stitch up and over the working yarn, I hold the working yard a wee bit taught BETWEEN the current stitch being worked and the next stitch. I do this every time I knoit a flat stitch. It does tend to create a very tight stitch so all of your following rounds will be very tight to get the stitch up and over the peg. But it’s a sock so you wqnt it tight, right? Just be careful and take your time lifting thise stitches up over the working yarn and off the peg so you don’t break a peg. The other good thing I found about holding my working yarn between the working stitch and the next stitch is that if I take my time pulling the stitch up over the working yarn and the peg, and the working yarn accidentally begins to come up over the peg instead of the stitch, I have the control I need to keep that stitch on the peg, put it back down over the peg, reposition the working yarn, and try again. I was not able to do that when just resting the working yarn across the entire front of the working side of the board.

    I hope that makes sense! Good luck!

    New Kid on the Block, Shannon White

  • These are so cute. Not only can they be incorporated in a knitting project but I could definitely see them in other colors stung on a long piece of yarn for a garland in a newborn nursery. Thanks for the cute pattern!

  • Thanks Shannon, I’ll give it a try.

    Cindy

  • Hi Jenny & Shannon,

    I tried your suggestions, and I wound up having to redo the whole leg and the heel still didn’t turn out quite right. Is there anywhere in the Brighton/Howell MI area that I could go to and have them show me how to rip this heel out and turn it right?

    Thanks for your help,
    Cindy

  • Shannon
    I own both of the sock looms and the 18 & 28 inch long looms, a fine gauge loom, and the new hat loom. My go to loom for most projects is the 18 inch loom. It fits in my lap nice, yet I can take it with me on trips, works well with worsted weight yarn, can knit in the round, double knit because it is ADJUSTABLE , and flat panel , and has enough pegs to do most of the projects ie. hats, scarfs, even socks, and afghan blocks. It is an excellent loom to start your looming journey.
    As far as books go, sometimes even if you find you are not fond of some of the patterns in a book, you may find the techniques / info most useful. When you have done a few projects and gained experience you may return to those patterns and make them your way by adding your own creative touch. Isela has an excellent loom primer book that has a ton of useful info and techniques. There are patterns in the book as well but I find myself turning to the technique pages often. Many of the loom books you see have illustrations showing another manufacturers round plastic looms but these techniques will work on all of the KB looms too. Hobby Lobby carries some of her books so you could look at them and see if it is what you are looking for.
    These are just my opinions. Hope that is useful to you.

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Dec 8, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – Doll Pin Angel Ornaments

Doll Pin Angel Ornaments

Create a little Christmas spirit with these beautiful angel ornaments. Traditionally, angels are placed on Christmas trees as a reminder of divine messengers bringing tidings of great joy and peace on earth, good will toward men.  May these blessings find you and your loved ones this season.

IMG_2859 (757x1024)

Materials:

Knitting Loom:  Sock Loom EFG

Yarn:  Approximately 6 yards of a size 5 thread weight cotton yarn.  Bernat Handicrafter Thread was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, needle, Darice Craftwood 2” Doll Pin, hot glue gun and glue

Additional Embellishments:

  • Wings:  10” length of 5/8” wide sheer ribbon.
  • Halo:  1.5” of 4mm fused string pearl bead trim.  (8 pearls)
  • Hair:  A tiny bit of crafter’s doll hair, if desired.

Finished Size:  Each angel is approximately 2” tall.

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques:

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast-on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Yo, K2tog:  Worked over two pegs.  Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left.  Move the stitch from peg 1 over to peg 2.  E-wrap peg 1.  Knit peg 2, treating both stitches as if they are one.  Yo, K2tog is now complete.

Instructions

Bodice:

Prepare the loom to work over 22 pegs, in the round.  Using the drawstring cast on method, cast on 22 stitches.  Work 8 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Do not bind off.  Continue on to skirt.

Skirt:

Round 1:  *Yo, K2tog, rep from * to the end of the round.

Round 2:  E-wrap knit all pegs.

Work rounds 1 and 2 four times.  (Tip:  For variety, try changing colors before working the last two rows of the skirt.  Or work the bodice section in one color and the skirt in another.)

Bind off using the basic bind off method.  Once the dress is off of the loom, gently stretch it to help set the stitches.  Weave in the yarn tail from bind off.  Note:  There will be a tiny gap between the first and the last stitches bound off.  This is due to the basic bind off being used in the round.  For a more polished look, these stitches can easily be drawn together when weaving in the yarn tail.  Simply thread the yarn tail through the needle and draw the needle down through the first stitch bound off, then weave it in on the inside of the dress.

Finishing:

Place the dress on the doll pin, with the bodice section near the doll’s neck.  Pull on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast on to cinch the dress around the doll’s neck.  Weave in the yarn tail.

IMG_2844 (800x600)

Glue a tiny bit of crafter’s doll hair to the top of the doll pin’s head, if desired.

IMG_2846 (800x600)

Or, skip the hair and just add a halo to the top of the doll pin.

IMG_2849 (800x600)

Create the halo using the 4mm fused string pearl bead trim.  To do this, place a small dab of glue near the front of the doll pin’s head.  Coil the 1.5″ length of bead trim into a circle and stick the center front of the circle into the glue.  Place a small dab of glue near the back of the doll pin’s head and carefully stick the two ends of the bead trim into the glue, maintaining the halo shape while the glue sets.

IMG_2848 (600x800)

Create wings using the sheer ribbon.  Tie the ribbon into a small bow.  Glue the bow to the back of the angel’s dress, near the neckline.  Once the wings are in place and the glue has set, trim the ribbon ends close to the center knot.

IMG_2854 (800x600)

For a hanging ornament:  Cut a 5” length of the crochet thread.  Use the needle to draw one end of the thread through the dress, near the back of the doll pin’s neck.  Tie the ends of the thread together in an overhand knot.  The angel is now ready to grace the Christmas tree.

IMG_2856 (654x1024)

Merry Christmas!

 

1 Comment

  • Another darling project, Jenny! They are so cute…and filled with so many possibilities. My daughter loved play acting with homemade characters when she was little and these would have fit right in! :)

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Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – Mini Monsters!

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

IMG_2754 (585x800)

 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

IMG_2759 (600x800)

Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

IMG_2757

Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

4 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! :D

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

  • give me an idea for a different helloween , they will be suprised !

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Apr 18, 2014

Bunnies, Bunnies, Bunnies!

We have two special designs today for you, each of them will delight a child in your lives. First, we have the Easter Egg Bunny–a delightful miniature bunny that fits inside a plastic egg.

 

Easter Egg Bunny 1

Fill those Easter eggs with a special treat and watch your little one’s eyes light up in a pleasant surprise. The Easter Egg Bunny is small enough to fit snuggly in one the large size plastic Easter Eggs, or you can also squish him inside one of the medium size eggs.

Pattern Specifications

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Approx 40 yds of worsted weight yarn. Sample was worked with Knit Picks Swish yarn in White, Carnation, and Cobblestone Heather

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.Easter Egg Bunny 2

Other: Small piece of ribbon for necktie. Small amounts of polly fill for stuffing or you can use bits of left over white yarn.

Gauge: 10 sts x 17 rows=2” (however, gauge is not important for this project).

Size: 3 inches tall (not counting the ears), 4.5 inches tall with ears.

Abbreviations

K=knit

P=purl

St(s)=stitches

Rnd=Round

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the right to the peg to the left, when you knit the peg with the two loops, work both loops together.

INSTRUCTIONS

Head

Leave a 10 inch yarn tail, cast on 16 sts, join to work in the round.

Rnd 1-Rnd 6: k to the end of rnd. From this point on, work in rows.

Row 1: k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog.

Rnd 2: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave 10 inch yarn tail. Using yarn tail, sew the small opening from left from the last two rows.

Before closing the cast on edge with the yarn tail, lightly stuff the head, shaping it as you insert the stuffing.

Face Details

Using black or gray yarn, do two embroidery French Knots for the eyes.

Using pink yarn, simply work two running stitches at the front of the head, covering the gather bind off.

Body

Leave a 10 inch yarn tail, cast on 16 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1-14: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather bind off.

Before closing the cast on edge with the yarn tail, lightly stuff the head, shaping it as you insert the stuffing.

Legs
(make 2)

Cast on 7 sts, prepare to work  a flat panel.

Row 1-14: k to the end of row.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave a 10 inch yarn tail. Use yarn tail to seam long the side of the panel, thus forming a small leg.

ArmsEaster Egg Bunny 3
(make 2)

Cast on 6 sts

Row 1-10: k to the end of row.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave a 10 inch yarn tail. Use yarn tail to seam long the side of the panel, thus forming a small leg.

Ears
(make 2)
Cast on 6 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 : k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Row 9: k1, ktog, k2tog, k1.

Row 10: p to the end of row.

Row 11: k2tog, k2tog.

Row 12: k2tog.

Bind off.

Ears sewing

Assembly

Fold ears in half. Using the yarn tail from the cast on edge, seam along the curved side of the ear, just a couple of stitches.

 

Sew the ears to the top of the head. Best placement is almost next to each other, at the top of the head.

Next, sew the head to the body, placing the head. Sew the small arms to the side, about 3 rows down from the neck.

Lastly, sew the legs to the bottom section of the body place them towards the back and to the side so the bunny is able to sit.

Optional: add a small ribbon bow to the neck.

Notice: If gifting to a baby or toddler, make sure that all the pieces are securely sewn.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Renita Bunny

Sweet Cuddle Bunny
by Renita Harvey

Knit a little cuddly stuffie for those little love ones!

 

Pattern Specifications

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 or All-n-One loom

Yarn: Approx 60 yds of bulky 5 weight yarn (large 10” bunny) or 65 yds of sport 3 weight yarn (2 strands held together  (7” bunny)) for the small 7” bunny. Contrast color yarn for eyes and nose.  Sample was knit with Jiffy, 10” sample, and Baby Bee Sweet Delight for the 7” sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle

Other: Stuffing and ribbon for neckline bows.

Size: 10″ inches (purple sample) and 7″ (yellow sample).

Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows= 4”

Abbreviations

CO =Cast on

BO = bind off

K=knit stitch

S= slip or skip

M1 =Make 1. Reach for ladder from the previous row, twist the ladder and place it on the empty peg.

K2tog =knit two stitches together (see above pattern on how to do it).

SSK=slip slip knit

INSTRUCTIONSRenita Bunny 2

Bunny
(Make 2)

Chain CO 10 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: s1, k9

Row 2:s1, k7, m1, k3

Row 3: s1, k8, m1, k3

Row 4: s1, k9, m1, k3

Row 5: s1, k10, m1, k3

Row 6:  s1, k11, m1, k3

Row 7: s1, k12, m1, k3

Row 8: s1, k13, m1, k3

Row 9: s1, k14, m1, k3

Rows 10: 18 – s1, k17

Row 19: s1, k14, k2tog, k1

Row 20: s1, k13, ssk, k1

Row 21: s1, k12, k2tog, k1

Row 22: s1, k11, ssk, k1

Row 23:  s1, k10, k2tog, k1

Row 24: s1, k9, ssk, k1

Row 25: s1, k8, k2tog, k1

Row 26: s1, k7, ssk, k1

Row 27 – 28: s1, k9

Row 29: s1, k7, m1, k3

Row 30: s1, k8, m1, k3

Row 31: s1, k9, m1, k3

Row 32: s1, k10, m1, k3

Row 33: s1, k11, m1, k3

Rows 34 – 38: s1, k14

Row 39: s1, k11, k2tog, k1

Row 40: s1, k10, ssk, k1

Row 41: s1, k9, k2tog, k1

Row 42: s1, k8, ssk, k1

Row 43: s1, k7, k2tog, k1

Row 44: s1, k6, ssk, k1

Row 45: s1, k3, BO 1, k4

Ears are worked separate over 4 stitches each.

Ear 1

Rows 1 – 12: s1, k3

Row 13: s1, ssk, k1

Row 14: s1, k2tog

Row 15: k2tog

Row 16: k1

BO by pulling working yarn though final stitch

Ear 2

Attach yarn and repeat Ear 1.

Side Strip

Chain CO 5 stitches

Rows 1 – 170: s1, k4

BO

Assembly

With the front piece facing down and starting at the inside between the ears, place 5 to 7 slipped edge stitches back on the pegs.


Renita 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the side strip facing up, place the same number of slipped edge stitches on the same pegs. 
Renita 2

With a new strand of yarn, work the basic BO to seam the edges together and remove them from the loom.  Place new edge stitches on the loom as you work the BO until all the edge has been seamed together ending at the inside of the ears.

Repeat with the back piece and other edge of the side strip.

Stuff and seam the opening between the ears.

With contrast yarn, sew eyes and nose on with tapestry needle.

Weave all ends in.

 

 

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Dec 22, 2013

Christmas Tree Square in Double Knit!

 

Color changes are very easy in double knitting on the knitting board. Create intarsia designs and all your color changes are tucked inside between the 2 layers and none of it shows. Both sides look exactly the same. Your scarves, shawls and afghans can look the same on both sides, no matter how the piece is placed.

Christmas Tree Holiday design using color changes and horizontal stripes. 

christmastree_photo

By simply following the graph below, line by line, all your designs can be created in your knit.  This Holiday Tree is an example of horizontal stripes and a tree design.  On the opposite side of the knit piece, it looks exactly the same. So, you could have a holiday dish cloth, or the center of a larger afghan.  No knots or yarn tails.

 

What about the blocking of the finished knit so that the edges do not curl and the piece lays flat and retains the shape?  In double knit, there is no rolling edges so therefore, no need to block the knitted piece.

Hope you enjoy! And Happy Holidays!

 

 

 

 

my_tree

 

3 Comments

  • Would love to learn how to create the graph, either by hand or online.

  • Looking for a board loom patter for a heart!! Please help.

  • Hi, You can find several software apps for creating the graph. They are fun and easy to use. You just create a graph for the number of rows and lines. Then just tap the colors into the boxes. I would just search ‘graph for knitting’. Pat

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Dec 20, 2012

Happy Holidays!!! Christmas Stocking Pattern

We would like to wish you all a wonderful holiday season. Thank you for all your support and for all your wonderful feedback and for your friendship. We would like to bring you one last free pattern to wrap up the 2012 year. Thank you all and Happy Holidays!

Loom: AIO Loom by KnittingBoard.com, set at 60 pegs was used in sample. Any other loom with regular gauge could work.

Yarn: Approx 260 yards of worsted weight yarn. Red Heart Shimmer in Red and Snow.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles in size 4 (used for grafting the toes).

Gauge: 10 sts x 13 rows= 2 inches in stockinette, but it doesn’t need to be accurate, it is just a big sock :)

Size: 21” x 6”

Pattern notes:

The Decorative Trim (red section) is worked separately as a flat panel in garter stitch, after stocking is complete, the cuff is seamed/sewn to the top of the stocking. The tassel cord and pom pom are created after by braiding yarn and placing a pom pom at the end of the braid.

Wrap and Turn=Lift the loop presently on the peg and hold it, take working yarn around the peg by going to the inside of the loom then wrapping the yarn around the peg so the yarn ends to the front of the peg. Place the loop back on the peg.

Abbreviations

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

cont=continue

sts=stitches

BO=Bind off

CO=Cast on

rnd=rnd

CC=Contrasting Color (Red)

MC=Main Color (Snow)

Stitch Patterns: Garter Stitch

Row 1: k

Row 2: p

Rows 1 and 2 produce 1 garter stitch ridge.

DIRECTIONS

Decorative Trim Panel
Worked as a flat panel

Using CC, CO 24 sts

Rows: 1-120: Work in Garter Stitch (60 Garter stitch ridges).

BO, leaving a 15 inch yarn tail.

Stocking
Worked in the round, set knitting loom in the round to 60 pegs.

Using MC, CO 60 sts, to work in the round

Rnd 1: k

Rep Rnd 1 until item measure 5.5” from CO edge.

**Next rnd: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next rnd: *p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep from ** to ** 2 more times.

Next 42 rnds: work Tree of Life Chart

Cut yarn leaving a 5” yarn tail. Attach yarn at peg 16 cont to heel instructions

Heel
Worked in short-rows over 30 stitches (over pegs 16-45, re-number the pegs so they are 1 to 30 instead of 16 to 45; peg 16 is peg 1 from this point forward).

Knit from peg 1 to 29. Wrap and turn on peg 30.

Knit from peg 29 to 2. Wrap and turn on peg 1.

Knit from peg 2 to 28. Wrap and turn on peg 29.

Knit from peg 28 to 3. Wrap and turn on peg 2.

Knit from peg 3 to 27. Wrap and turn on peg 28.

Knit from peg 27 to 4. Wrap and turn on peg 3.

Knit from peg 4 to 26. Wrap and turn on peg 27.

Knit from peg 26 to 5. Wrap and turn on peg 4.

Knit from peg 5 to 25. Wrap and turn on peg 26.

Knit from peg 25 to 6. Wrap and turn on peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to 24. Wrap and turn on peg 25.

Knit from peg 24 to 7. Wrap and turn on peg 6.

Knit from peg 7 to 23. Wrap and turn on peg 24.

Knit from peg 23 to 8. Wrap and turn on peg 7.

Knit from peg 8 to 22. Wrap and turn on peg 23.

Knit from peg 22 to 9. Wrap and turn on peg 8.

Knit from peg 9 to 23; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 24.

Knit from peg 23 to peg 8, lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 7.

Knit from peg 8 to 24; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 25.

Knit from peg 24 to peg 7; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 6.

Knit from peg 7 to 25; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 26.

Knit from peg 25 to peg 6; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to 26; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 27

Knit from peg 26 to 5; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 4

Knit from peg 5 to 27; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 28

Knit from peg 27 to 4; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 3

Knit from peg 4 to 28; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 29

Knit from peg 28 to 3; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 2

Knit from peg 3 to 29; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 30

Knit from peg 29 to 2; lift the wrap(s) together with the stitch on the peg. Wrap and turn on peg 1*

Pegs 1 and 30 have wraps on them, when working the first round of the foot, lift both wraps on these pegs along with the stitch (treat all 3 loops on the peg as 1 loop).

Cont to Foot instructions.

Foot
Worked in the round

Next rnd: k (On the very first round, pick up the extra wraps from pegs 1 and 30)

Rep last rnd until foot measures 5 inches from end of heel. Cont with Toe

Toe
Worked in short-rows over 30 stitches. Follow same instructions as for Heel to the *.

Pegs 1 and 30 have wraps. Knit 1 row from peg 1 to 30, lifting the extra wraps. Cut yarn leaving a 15” yarn tail.

Graft the Toe

Place stitches 1-30 on one double pointed needle. Place remaining 30 stitches on second double pointed needle.

Stitches are ready to be grafted.

Follow grafting instructions below

Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail coming from the toe area.

  1. Hold knitting needles parallel to each other, wrong sides of the knitted fabric together. Insert the tip of the tapestry needle (tn) through the first stitch of the front knitting needle as if you were going to purl, pull the working yarn (wy) through, leave the stitch on the knitting needle.
  2. Insert tn through the first stitch on the back needle, as if to knit, pull the wy through, leave the stitch on the knitting needle.
  3. Insert the tn through the first stitch on the front needle, as if to knit, pull the yarn through, slide the stitch off the needle.
  4. Insert tn through the next stitch on the front needle, as if to purl, pull wy through, leave stitch on the knitting needle.
  5. Insert the tn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull wy through, slide the stitch off the needle.
  6. Insert the tn through the next stitch on the back needle, as if to knit, pull wy through, leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeat steps 3-6, until only one stitch remains on the knitting needles. Insert the tn through that last stitch and slide it off the knitting needle, pull yarn through. Weave ends in.

Tassel Cord

Cut 12 pieces of red yarn about 14 inches long. Separate into three groups of 4 pieces of yarn (4, 4, 4). Tie a tight knot on one end. Do a simple braid with the three groups of yarn.  Knot it.

Pom Pom

Create a small pom pom using both colors of yarn. Attach to one of the ends of the tassel cord.

Assembly

Place the Tassel cord at one of the sides of the top of the stocking, so that the tassel hangs down to the body of the stocking and leave about 4 inches of the tassel cord hanging above the cuff, securely sew the tassel to the cuff area. Make a loop with the 4 inches by folding it to the inside of the stocking, sew it in place.

Using CC yarn, sew the Decorative Trim to the Cuff of the stocking. 1 ridge per stitch (line up a ridge with one of the small “v”).  Sew BO edge of Decorative Trim to CO edge of Decorative Trim.

Weave ends in.

Steam block.

33 Comments

  • Thank you, Isela, for sharing this stunning Christmas stocking! A wonderful exciting project to work on for next year. Thank you,again! Merry Christmas to you and your family.

  • Thank you for the lovely pattern. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you, too.

  • Isela Thanks so much. This is really beautiful. I will have to try to make it after the holidays.

    I love it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you your family and to all crafters!

  • Isela Thanks so much. This is really beautiful. I will have to try to make it after the holidays.

    I love it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family and to all crafters!

  • Thank you so much for the beautiful stocking. Will give me something to work on this summer. Merry Christmas to you, your family and AKB. Have a Happy New Year.

  • Amazing! Thank you! Can’t wait to start on it! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

  • Merry Christmas, Isela! Thank you so much for the stocking pattern. It is so beautiful. You are a lovely and generous person to share it with us. Many good wishes for your Christmas and New Year…

  • That is breathtaking. What a beautiful gift it would make. Thanks, Isela, for doing the hard part and figuring out such a great design. Christmas blessings to you and those you love.

  • This is just beautiful! Will make a lovely project for the winter months.

  • This elegant Christmas stocking is absolutely beautiful, Isela! Thank you so much for sharing your time and talent!

  • I was sincerely moved by the thoughtful gift you have given. I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Peaceful New Year.

  • La trovo veramente bella e penso che sia facile da fare.
    Complimenti e Auguri a tutti

  • Thanks so much for posting this pattern! I am going to try to make one (or some!) for next christmas! Happy Holidays!

  • Thank you very much. This is absolutely lovely. Merry Christmas.

  • E’ veramente bella, sicuramente tra i progetti da fare, e decisamente comprensibile anche per chi come me si dedica al loom knitting da poco tempo, Grazie Isela e Auguri!

  • Thank you so much for this gorgeous pattern! This is what family heirlooms are made of!

  • Thank you, it is the most elegant stocking I have seen this year.

  • Please help, Isela! I started making the tree of life stocking, but was a little confused when I got to the foot. Your instructions aren’t clear about it. Am I right to assume that I begin and end the rounds for the foot on peg 16, not the original peg 1, as the toe will also be knitted on pegs 16 to 45? I continued without cutting, figuring the yarn will be cut once the toe is complete. I want to make sure I’m clear on that before I continue with the foot, to make sure I’m making it properly. This is the first stocking I’ve done, and since the heel isn’t in the usual place, it’s coming out of the loom at an odd angle. Ive knitted many pairs of socks, and I want to be sure this stocking is finished properly, since I’ve put a lot of work into it. Oh, and I also knitted the red cuff into the stocking, not separately to sew on later. I’ve found that the pieces I try to sew together don’t look very good. I don’t know why.

  • Cynthia, after we finish the Tree of Life, we will begin the heel. The reason why we started the heel on peg 16 is that we want the Tree of Life to be on the sides of the stocking, not front and back of the stocking. Therefore, we will need to move the heel around so that it is half way between one tree and the tree from the other side.

    Think of it as two pieces, once you finish the top, the instructions say to “Cut yarn leaving a 5” yarn tail. Attach yarn at peg 16 cont to heel instructions” the top part is over. Now you will work on the foot. Forget about the top instructions altogether. Now, attach your yarn at peg 16. From this point on, peg 16 will be considered peg 1, until you finish the stocking. The toe is done on the same pegs as the heel, so if you need to put a piece of masking tape on pegs 1-30 (remember that your new peg 1 was your peg 16), and make sure you use those same 30 pegs for your heel.

    Good luck!

  • Thank you, Isela! It’s just as I thought to finish the stocking. I used stitch markers to mark the new pegs for the heel and toe. They work well and I don’t have to worry about tape residue on the loom. I’ll definitely have to steam block the stocking when it’s complete. It’s looking really funny as it comes out of the loom, and right now my tree looks like a diamond instead of an elongated tree. My next stocking will be a sparkly black and white. I bought the yarn but haven’t determined my pattern yet. My 19 year-old daughter LOVES black and white items.

  • Good luck Cynthia, send us a picture and I would love to post it :).

  • Isela, this is my first time attempting the beautiful stocking you made last year. I don’t understand the cast on instructions. If you could clarify it for me, I would appreciate it. You do such a gorgeous job on all of you projects

  • The cast on instructions say with CC cast on X number of stitches. You will be working a flat panel, so with the red yarn (Contrasting Color=CC) cast on the number of stitches necessary. Does that help?

  • Isela I love your design but I am a little knew at this can you possibly make a video to show me how to do it I still have a hard time reading the paterns because again I am knew at this thanks.

  • Thank you so much for the Christmas stocking pattern! I can’t wait to make one for the new granddaughter!!

  • Hello I was wondering if I did this on the 31 peg loom how would I alter the pattern so it would come out as your design did?
    Or is that even possible? Thanks

  • You will have to redo the entire design as the “tree” is done over 30 stitches. Your tree will be all around the stocking. This design looks better on a smaller gauge loom.

  • What cast on method do you recommend for this project? It’s so pretty, I hope I can get mine close to this. I debated on colors but finally chose white and red I Love This Yarn in metallic.

  • Cast on method–I used the long tail cast on method

  • I w
    As wondering if you ha
    Ve to start the stocking on a certain peg? And when you’re doing the back side do you do the tree of life chart wher peg 31 would be like peg one and 60 would be like 30

  • I am ready to start the heel… I have counted out the pegs as you say in pattern but I’m not sure. I started on the top of the loom not the side. Did I start on the right peg or no? And if I did then can you help me figure out where I should start my heel? I also went clockwise around the loom. Please help when you can. Thank you! So far my stocking looks good!! I just want to make sure I place the heel and toe correctly.

  • Oh also I should say I used the all in one loom as the pattern says. Thanks!!

  • Elizabeth, the heel begins on peg 16. Count to peg 16, and place a stitch marker on it.

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