Browsing articles in "Free Patterns"
Aug 18, 2017

NEW…’His and Her’ Sock Loom Set

 

“OH look, honey, we can have matching socks”….

Brand new to the sock loom collection!  His & Her Sock Looms are here!

Now available, stationary fine gauge sock looms, with plastic pegs. The pegs are engineered specifically for ease of use, lifting yarn over pegs, and ‘staying put’ in the loom.

There are 2 looms in the set, the purple loom creates a large adult size sock, 64 pegs (HIS) and the orange loom creates an average adult size sock, 56 pegs (HERS).  In sizing, we refer to the width of the sock, or size of the leg opening. The length of the sock, and foot can be knit as long as desired.

No more counting pegs. Easy and superb for beginners!

 

The sock loom set includes full ‘step by step’ instructions for knitting socks in both sizes, adult and adult- large. DK weight sock yarn is recommended for best results.  Worsted #4 sock yarn can be used for a tighter knit, thicker sock.

Check out our new basic sock patterns!  Bethany Dailey’s  Keepin’ It Simple Socks, is great for men or for anyone with a larger width- knit with the purple loom.

For average adult size (width), use the orange loom, and knit the new Comfy Footies! designed by Isela Phelps.

For quick reference, check out the Heel & Toe video. Work your sock while following along with the video.

…We hope you enjoy! Happy Knitting!

 

 

19 Comments

  • Congrats on the new products. It says fine gauge, but doesn’t mention an actual number so what’s the p2p gauge on these sock looms?

  • These beautiful new sock looms are listed as Fine Gauge. Does that mean the measurement is 5/16″?

  • Love the idea of the looms themselves. Hate the (hetero)sexist stereotype your marketing is feeding. Human beings really don’t have that much sexual dimorphism. In general, males and females share most of the size range. Many men need smaller, many women need larger. The ‘his and her’s’ is appealing to the vision of the big strong man and dainty little woman that ends up causing a lot of harm for all of the people, and couples, that don’t fit that. It is a slap at the woman who needs a larger sock with all the implied message that she is not feminine,, that she is coarse and masculine. While the man (or even boy) who has to use the ‘girl loom’… well, obviously I’m not going to repeat here the slurs about men and boys who are considered feminine.

    And those are just the basic binary issues. The second you look outside of those, it gets worse.

    I love that you are doing two sizes of looms. People come in enough sizes, I’d love even more.
    But I’d particularly love it if you didn’t define my gender and the gender of everyone I’m making socks for by the size of their feet

  • I have had eperiance this type of knitting. the tenches is very good.

  • Hi, You have brought up a good evaluation. Thank you for your thoughts, and we will remember this in the future. Thanks

  • Yes, that is correct. 5/16″ from peg2peg.

  • Hi, Thanks for asking. The looms are 5/16″ from center of peg to center of peg.

  • i recently ordered these looms, always wanted to make socks,but found instructions to difficult to follow, now will try these and see what happens …

    happy sock making to me…

  • I love the new products! Thank you, as for me, I LOVE the his and her label! My husband was happy that he was going to get a pair of socks! Haha. I read about your company and I applaud you and your success. Keep up the good work! Thank you again : )

  • I amiss very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.

  • I am very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.

  • Thanks Carol,we appreciate all feedback. So are you working on your husbands socks?

  • I’m looking forward to trying it out, I think having oval loom will help, even though I knot and crochet my socks I do love loom sock knitting

  • I can’t wait to get these looms and think I will have to order today! I have all of the KB adjustable sock looms and like them well enough but these new ones sound so much easier to use, especially since they don’t need adjusting. I also have to say that I don’t have the same mindset as a previous poster and can’t say that those kind of thoughts ever entered my mind. My husband has small feet and would probably need one made on the “Hers” and I highly doubt that he will feel very feminine. People that I make things for aren’t going to care, or feel defined by, which loom I use. I love the “His and Her” name!

  • I have a question I saw online that 5/16 might be considered a SG = Small Gauge (5/16?,). So should I look for sock yarns that are “2” weight and not fingering weight 1? Maybe to use my sock stash combine 2 strands of weight 1 together. Or do I need baby weight or 3 light worsted or sport yarn for this loom? Sorry for so many questions. ….
    Well can’t wait to try it out already thinking of what yarns I may have. Thanks for any help.

  • I love all the AKB looms! I look fw to getting these. I also love thinking of them as his and hers. It makes it easy for me quickly recognize which one I need to grab, especially when I am in a hurry. Keep up the good work!!!

  • I totally agree with Amber – I think you should have used large/medium/small.

  • I got it today and started a sock. I LOVE IT!!! No more awkward end pegs so easy to use. Love the light weight of it to. It’s very easy to use on my hands. I have few different looms This is my favorite sock loom by far!! I????????????I may have to order second set so I can make two socks at a time. Thank you Pat for very fast shipping and coupon.

  • Oops my emojis went as question marks not happy faces

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Aug 7, 2017

Stitchology 35: Scalloped Shells

Can’t you just feel the sea breezes, hear the surf, and feel the sand in your toes just from looking at this month’s Scalloped Shells stitch? It may look complicated, but is fairly simple to do, especially using the stitch breakdown and the tutorial video you’ll find below.  Happy summer looming!   Something to note: even though this stitch works up in natural waves, it can still be used as a square for blankets, if you so desire.  This square would be a terrific one to place at the top and bottom edges with the scallop sides out, or you could simply block it so that the bottom is in a straight line for easier seaming together with other afghan blocks. ;)

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

This stitch uses a multiple of 11 pegs (stitch itself expands to 15 loops per repeat, see the instructions on how to accomplish this on only 11 pegs.)

All knit stitches use the true knit stitch or “reverse purl”.

Double YO: E-wrap yarn around peg twice, KO, leaving the 2 wraps on peg.

KO: knit off (lift bottom loop over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)

Sl: slip (skip peg, do not work)

WY: working yarn

Wyib: working yarn carried to the back of the peg

YO: lay working yarn across the front of the peg.

K5tog: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg and KO one at a time.

 

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 11. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-3: knit

Row 4: purl

Row 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)

Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)

Peg 3: knit

Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.

Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)

Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)

Peg 11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Row 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 11: purl.

Peg 10: purl the top loop and move to peg 11. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 9: purl the top loop and move to peg 10. Purl the bottom loop.

Pegs 8-4: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10.  Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.

Peg 6: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted).  Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.

Peg 5: Purl the stitch on peg 3 and move to peg 5.

Peg 4: Purl the top loop on peg 2 and move to peg 4.

Peg 3: Purl the bottom loop on peg 2 and move to peg 3.

Peg 2: Purl the top loop on peg 1 and move to peg 2.

Peg 1: purl. Remove any extra slack from stitches 1-5.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Row 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.

Row 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Pegs 11-7: knit.

                Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.

Pegs 5-1: knit.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 11):

Rounds 1-3: knit

Round 4: purl

Round 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)

Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)

Peg 3: knit

Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.

Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)

Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)

Peg 11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of round.

Round 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: move the loop on the top temporarily to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 2: purl the top loop and move back to peg 1. Move the next loop temporarily to peg 3. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 3: purl the top loop and move back to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.

Pegs 4-8: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10.  Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.

Peg 9: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted).  Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.

Pegs 7-11: purl

Repeat from * to end of round.

Round 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.

Round 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Pegs 1-5: knit.

                Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.

Pegs 7-11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of round.

Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

  • Need a book on what stitches mean and how to do them

  • There are a ton of sources for learning all the stitches out there. :) Here is a link to the How-To section of KnittingBoard.com: http://www.knittingboard.com/loom-knitting-how-tos/ There is also a tab at this same site that contains video instructions as well. Another excellent source for beginning loom knitting is the book by Isela Phelps, Loom Knitting Primer, which can be found in some craft stores, as well as Amazon.

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Jul 23, 2017

Pavement Sunset Wall Art

If you are up until midnight browsing social media for the latest knit and crochet trends, you have probably noticed that knit wall art is now a “thing”! With this pattern, you can jump on board and create a stunning centerpiece for any room.

When you finish this pattern, don’t forget to share a picture with us on instagram @knittingboard using the hashtags #zippyloom, #knittingloom, and #knittingboard!

Loom: Zippy Master Set; 4 Zippy Looms (16 pegs).

Yarn: Knit Picks Tuff Puff (100 g per skein), Super Bulky #6, 100% wool, 44 yds.

  • Color A (Silver): 2 skeins (120 g/53 yds)
  • Color B (Orange): 2 skeins (120 g/53 yds)
  • Color C (Flamingo): 1 skein (25 g/33 yds)

(Note: Use different color combinations for different effects [favorite sports team, flag colors, etc])

Finished Size: 30” x 19” finished object, 34” x 23” pipe border

Abbreviations: u = U Stitch

Stitches: U Stitch: Bring yarn to the front of the peg, then wrap around the peg to the back of the loom, then hook over or work the peg.

Other Materials (optional):

½” copper pipe (found at your local hardware store), 2 pieces 34” long, 2 pieces 23” long

4 pieces of ½” copper pipe fittings 90 degree (found at your local hardware store)

1 spool stretch cord (normally used for jewelry)

Tools: Knit hook, large sewing needle

Instructions (for one panel):

Cast on 16 stitches.

Rows 1-14: 16u in color A

Rows 15-25: 16u in color B

Row 26: [1u in color B, 1u in color C] repeat 7 times

Row 27: [1u in color C, 1u in color B] repeat 7 times

Row 28: Repeat row 27

Row 29: Repeat row 26

Row 30-31: Repeat rows 26-27

Rows 32-36: 16u in color C

Bind off and sew in loose ends.

 

Create three panels using above pattern. Using a whipstitch, sew three panels together.

To create the optional frame, connect copper pipes using 90-degree copper pipe fittings.

Center finished object in the pipe frame and attach by weaving stretch cord around the pipe and through the finished object until firmly centered in pipe frame. Hang on your wall, and enjoy!

1 Comment

  • Why is by cast on so loose and my cast off so tight. Trying to make dish cloths, and they come out, loose on one end and tight on the other. What am I doing wrong. Start rolls also.

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Jul 20, 2017

Patriotic Picnic Blanket

This two person, soft and cozy, picnic blanket is perfect for any outdoor occasion. It’s a festive accent to get you in the picnic mood  ….double knit so you can use either side!

Loom: Zippy Master Set

Yarn: Knit Picks Mighty Stitch Super Bulky (44 yards per skein)
7 skeins of Serrano (308 yards), 10 skeins of White (440 yards)

Finished Size: 45″x 50″

Tools: Knit hook, crochet hook, large sewing needle

Notes: Pattern is made using two double knit loom configurations.
Both in double knit

Instructions: Make 13 stripes (7 in Serrano + 6 in White)

Configure Loom using 2 Zippys + 2 Straight Connectors (double knit)
– cast on using 4 sets of pegs (all 8 pegs)
– set anchor yarn to secure the stitches
– work 56 rows of stockinette stitch keep track to ensure exact length)
– bind off, weave in yarn tails
– finish off cast on edge

Make 2 in White (these will be the edge strips for blanket)
Configure Loom using 4 Zippys + 2 Straight Connectors (double knit)
– cast on using 8 sets of pegs (all 16 pegs)
– set anchor yarn to secure the stitches
– work 56 rows of stockinette stitch (keep track to ensure exact length)
– bind off, weave in yarn tails
– finish off cast on edge

Arrange strips and sew together using the mattress stitch

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Jun 29, 2017

Elephant Baby Blanket (double knit)

Everyone loves the circus elephants. Now they are knit right into this thick, soft blanket for crib, or use as floor mat at playtime. Large enough to roll around on, 36” X 38” in soft Double Knit. Blanket is knit in two panels with colorful borders added all around.

 

Loom: All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Red Heart Essentials #5, 100% acrylic, machine wash and dry. 131 yds per skein. Colors: Greyhound, 8 skeins. Peony Pink and Teal, 2 skeins each. For a lighter Teal, use Turquoise. Scrap of black yarn for eyes

Stitches: Stockinette and Purl (as in single knit)

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large sewing needle, graph of elephant for reference, or just use the written instructions. Optional: If you have (5) plastic sewing needles, they are great for holding the pieces in place for sewing.

Gauge: 3 stitches X 4 rows=1 inch

Size: Approx 36” long X 38” wide

Abbreviations: Approximately= aprox   St (sts)= stitch (stitches)   G=greyhound yarn  P=pink yarn   T=teal yarn   L=left   R=right

TECHNIQUES  

Basic Bind Off

1.  Work from end opposite the yarn tail; use your crochet hook to lift off the first loop on the back peg.

2.  Pick up the first loop on the front peg. Pull the front loop on hook through back loop.

Then, repeat picking up next back peg, then front loop; pull 1 thru 1. Repeat process to the end of the loom. Secure final stitch by pulling yarn tail through last loop on hook. With crochet hook, pull yarn tail into finished knit. Finish off at anchor yarns with this basic or crochet bind off.

Purl Stitch as in Single Knit

This is used in top and bottom border, alternating with Stockinette stitch. After a row of Stockinette stitch is complete, start the Purl stitches on back loom where yarn is connected. Work around, R to L, on each peg, working the purl stitches. You will end at beginning of loom, ready for next row of Stockinette.

1. Place the working yarn in front of the peg, below the loop on the peg. Insert the knit hook thru the loop on the peg from the top down.

2. Reach down to catch the working yarn with the knit hook. Pull the working yarn up through the loop on the peg, forming a new loop.

3. Hold the new loop on your hook. Then pull the loop that is still on the peg up and off the peg.

4. Place the new loop onto the peg. Gently tug on the working yarn to tighten the stitch.

Sewing together…

Start with the 2 pieces that are being sewn, lined up, so you can see the top of edge of each piece. Insert the sewing needle into the edge of one piece. Pick up the cross stitch in center of edge of knit. Pull the needle out and pick up the same cross stitch on other piece of knit

(border and panel). Work along both edges, continuing to pick up the cross yarn and alternating between the pieces. Draw the yarn snug as you move down the edges of the knit. This will pull the edges together without showing the sewing yarn. You do not want to sew the edge stitches, only pull them together for the invisible joining.

Instructions

Main panel: Cast on in Stockinette stitch for (48) sts in (P) yarn.  Lay an anchor yarn.

Row 1: Knit in Stockinette

Row 2: Purl as in single knit. This means to work around the entire loom on all (96) pegs doing single-knit Purl sts.

Repeat rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows).   Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on (T) yarn and work rows 1 and 2, for a total of 3 times. (6 rows).

This completes the 2- color border on bottom of panel. Cut (T) yarn and tie on (G) yarn.

Work 12 rows in Stockinette st.

Working the Design:  (See blog entry for full instructions on color change.)

 Design (use graph above for guidance, or just follow row instructions):

Row 13:  Weave 14 sts in stockinette in (G). At peg 15, tie on (T) yarn. Lay (G) yarn aside and do not cut. Work 3 sts in (T) yarn, and drag yarn across the next 4 sts. Wrap the next 3 leg stitches and return the circular, carrying across the (G) sts. to cover all sides of the (P) sts, and lay aside. Hook over the (P) stitches. Pick up (G) and wrap all remaining pegs with full circular. Continue the row with (G) yarn on last 24 sts. When you work the return, carry the (G) yarn across the (T) sts. Do not cut either yarn.  (See process below.)

Tie on (T) yarn in center between rows of pegs.  Wrap the number of pegs needed. 

 

Take yarn across the (G) area to next (T) pegs, wrap number of pegs needed.

Pick up (G) yarn and wrap all pegs that are not covered with (T) yarn.

Wrap empty pegs maintaining the Stockinette wrap.  All pegs should be covered for this row. Hook over.

Row 14-15: Repeat row 1.

Row 16-17: Work 13 sts in Stockinette with (G) yarn. Work (P) yarn on next 4 sts , skip next 4 stitches, and wrap the next 3 leg stitches, and return, and hook over. Complete the row with the (G) yarn and hook over all (G) pegs.

Row 18: There will be 3 sections of pink in this row, because you will be starting the elephant’s trunk. Work the (P) sts, and then the (G) sts.

(G) 13 sts, (P)4 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 5 sts,(G) last 14 sts. Hook over all.

Starting with row 19, the pink will be dominant section. So start next rows with gray section and cut yarn at beginning of pink section. Tie on (P) and work section. Tie on new (G) yarn, once done with body of elephant. You will not have the (G) yarn going thru the (P) sts. Therefore, you will need to twist the 2 yarns at beginning of each section, so the sections will be continuous.

Row 19: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 11 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 7 sts, (G) 13 sts.

Row 20: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 12 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 12 sts.

Row 21: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 11

Row 22: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 2 sts, (G) 11

Row 23: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G)1 st, , (P) 21 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 10

Row 24: (G) 9sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 1 st, (P) 21 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 11

Row 25: (G) 9 sts, (P) 23 sts, (G) 16 sts

Row 26: Repeat row 25.

Row 27: (G) 10 sts, (P) 22 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 28: (G) 11 sts, (P) 21 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 29: (G) 12 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 17 sts.

Row 30: (G) 12 sts, (P) 18 sts, (G) 18 sts.

Row 31: (G) 13 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 19 sts.

Row 32: (G) 15 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 20 sts.

Cut and tie all (P) yarns together. Make sure the (G) yarn is ready to continue at beginning of row 33.

Continue in Stockinette stitch with (G) yarn for 116 rows, unless you want a smaller blanket.

Top Border of blanket

Work these border rows just as you did the bottom border, only start with the (T) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Tie off (T) yarn; add (P) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Work the basic bind off to remove from loom. Bind off at anchor yarn so that the edges match on both ends.

You will want to add some black yarn for the elephant’s eye, but this can be done later.

Panel 2  (Working the 2nd panel with the (T) Teal Elephant.)

Repeat all instructions for 2nd panel as for 1st panel, only substitute the (T) yarn for the (P) when working the Elephant design.

Borders of stripes are sewn into the blanket in center between the 2 panels, and down each side to give the blanket a wider size and more color.

Border strips (Knit 3)

Cast on 10 sts in Stockinette with (P) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Tie on the (T) yarn. Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Note: There is no need to cut and tie at all the color changes as the yarn can be carried thru the knit and not show. So lay the (P) yarn aside and carry thru between pegs 2 and 3 as you work the next (T) rows.

All stripes will be worked with Stockinette from this point to top border.

Work (6) rows in Stockinette with (P) yarn.

Work (8) rows in Stockinette with (T) yarn.

Continue working, alternating the colors with (8) rows each. Work a total of (9) sections with (T) yarn. Finish the border with one section of (6) rows in (P) yarn. Then work the (T) and (P) sections again as in Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

The entire border is (12) sections of (P), and (11) sections of (T).

Once complete, bind off with basic bind off. Your border is a total of 172 rows, which matches the center panels.

Work (2) additional border strips.

Finishing and Sewing your Blanket

Be sure to give each elephant an eye. You can use the scrape of black yarn and sewing needle. Wrap thru to both sides on one stitch, and just tuck the yarn tails into the knit.

Lay the blanket out on bed or floor with the (3) borders in place. When sewing, be sure that the Purl stripes match across the top and bottom of the blanket. You may want to put a few plastic pins in each section before sewing to keep lined up.

Use invisible stitch to sew the sections together. Knot securely at each edge of a seam.

Blocking is not required, but may be done around the elephant designs to give them the best shape.

Your blanket is complete. You have a wonderful play pad for your little one. If a thinner blanket is desired, substitute the #5 yarn for a #4 worsted weight. Total size will be a bit smaller, but the designs will look just as nice.

1 Comment

  • This is so cute! I adore it! <3

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Jun 10, 2017

Men’s Vest

 

Knit with a simple stitch, this vest is the perfect way to begin loom knitting garments. Worn over a dress shirt with a tie lending a bit of warmth and style.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom with 20-peg extenders

YARN:  Approx 770 yds of worsted weight yarn. Caron Simply Soft in Navy color 570(600, 630) yds, and Gray color 120 (130, 140 yds) was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 6 stitch markers to mark the shoulders and back of neck, stitch holder.

GAUGE: 20 sts x 32 rows=4 inches

SIZE:  S (M, L) Sample shown in Small. Meant to fit loosely.

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit

p=purl

st(s)=stitch(es)

k1f&b=knit one front and back (an increase)

rem=remain

MC=Main color (Gray)

CC=Contrasting color (Navy)

Approx=Approximately

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 118) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-Row 20: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Cut CC, join MC.

Row 21: Move last loop over one peg to leave one peg open (move loop from peg 100 to peg 101; from peg 110 to peg 111; from peg 118 to peg 119). K1f&b,k to end of row.  (101, 111,119 sts)

Row 22: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Continue working in knit stitch until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Bind off the neckline using basic bind off method— 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches, 35 (39, 39) sts for back of next stitches, and 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches.

Tip: You can mark them with stitch markers, as you will need to line up the front shoulders to the back for seaming.

FRONT

Follow instructions as for Back from Row 1-Row 21.

Row 22: *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 23: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22-23 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the back.  

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows while maintaining the stitch pattern.

(Example for Large Size: First row: bind off first 6 sts of the row, k1, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. (113 sts rem).

Next row:  bind off first 6 sts of row, k to end. (107 sts rem).

**Next row: k1, p1, *k3,p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

 Next row: k to end of row.**

Rep from ** to ** until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the Back.

Work as for Back, including all shaping. When piece measures 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches, (at the point of the shoulder shaping), begin the neck shaping too.

Begin Neck Shaping

Work to center st in established stitch pattern, remove center stitch and place it on a stitch holder.  Attach another ball of yarn on next stitch and complete row (using the new ball of yarn). Work both sides at once.

Decreasing 1 st at each neck edge every 2nd  row, 9x (6x, 3x), then every 4th row 8x (13x, 17x).

Continue in established stitch pattern until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Bind off using basic bind off method.

Block pieces lightly before assembly.

ASSEMBLY

Join side seams using mattress stitch.

Weave in all ends.

Seam each shoulder 27 (30,33) sts of front to 27 (30, 33) sts of back.

Armhole Edging
(make 2)

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 120) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Seam Armhole Edging to each armhole opening using mattress stitch.

Neck Edging

Using CC, cast on 112 (120, 148) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Locate the center stitch of the neckline opening, remove stitch from stitch holder, and pass the tapestry needle through it and begin mattress stitch seaming the Neck Edging at that point all the way around.

Weave all ends in. Block lightly.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

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May 29, 2017

Elegant Long Stem Roses

Roses are the go-to gift for all occasions.  But some people have allergies that prevent them from enjoying real roses, and roses never last very long for the amount of money they cost.  Why not make a bouquet that will last more than one lifetime?

With medium level skills of short row knits and construction of multiple pieces, a work of art can be created in very little time but will last forever and won’t make anyone sneeze.  Why not knit a dozen in your favorite color for a stunning display!

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN:  70 yds of dk/3 weight 50% cotton/50% acrylic yarn for each rose, 50 yds of rose color & 20 yds of green.  Cascade Yarns Sunseeker Shade in colors 09 (red), 05 (baby pink), 06 (white), and 26 (green) used in samples.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 16 gauge galvanized steel wire cut 10″ long for each rose

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  12 “ from top of petal to bottom of stem

 ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

S=slip (skip)

P2tog=purl 2 together – move the stitch from the end peg to the next peg and purl both stitches as one

CDD=central double decrease – move the 2 outside loops to the middle peg and purl all 3 stitches as one

W&T=wrap & turn – lift the stitch off the peg, wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it from behind and around to the front, place loop back on peg.

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

CA=petal color (red, pink, or white)

CB=calyx and stem (green)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Petals – Make 6

Using CA and leaving a tail approx. 6” long for seaming, CO 8 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all 8 pegs

R2:  S1, k next 7 pegs

R3:  K pegs 1-6, W&T peg 7

R4:  K pegs 6-1

R5:  K pegs 1-4, W&T peg 5

R6:  K pegs 4-1

R7:  K pegs 1-2, W&T peg 3

R8:  K pegs 2-1

Rep R1-8, 9 more times

Next row:  K all 8 pegs

BO using basic BO method.

Using the long tail from the cast on, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches and gather the center by pulling it close. Then still using the tail from the CO, work the mattress stitch seaming the CO edge to the BO edge.  (See Picture Details of Petals after Assembly below for more details.)

Weave in the tail used for seaming while leaving the BO tail for assembly.

 

Calyx (Leaves beneath Petals)

Using CB, CO 35 pegs using the Gathered CO Method (see instructions after Assembly below).  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P all

R3 – 6:  rep R1-2, twice

Now begin working a flat panel over 7 pegs to create the connected leaves.

*R1:  K7 – 7 pegs

R2:  P2tog, P3, P2tog – 5 pegs

R3:  K5

R4:  P5

R5:  K5

R6:  P2tog, P1, P2tog – 3 pegs

R7:  K3

R8:  P3

R9:  K3

R10:  CCD – 1 peg

Cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

BO by pulling the tail through the final stitch.

Join working yarn on the next unworked peg.

Rep from * until 5 leaves are made using all unworked pegs.

Seam the 2 sides together (do NOT use the CO tail to seam the sides together).  Weave in ends except for the CO tail.

Gather the CO edge to prepare attaching calyx to stem.  (See Picture Details of Calyx after Assembly below for more details.)

 

Stem

Using 2 strands of CB together as one, CO 2 pegs.

*K peg 1 then knit peg 2.

Holding the wire behind the pegs (see Picture Details of Stem after Assembly below), bring the working yarn behind the wire back to peg 1.

Rep from * until all of the wire is covered by the i-cord except for 1″ at the top.

Note:  Remember to keep these stitches loose since using 2 strands make the stitches tighter than usual.

BO and cut working yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

 

Assembly

Joining Petals Together Creating Rose Bud

 

 

Center the seam at the bottom of the petal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over one side of the petal keeping the seam centered at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over the other side so that the bottom of the petal is closed together and top is open.

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the bottom of the petal together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the overlapping petal no higher than halfway up.

Weave in the end before continuing with the next petal.

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap the next petal around the first keeping the seam at the bottom of the petals.

Sew the edges to the petal beneath and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue adding petals in the same manner alternating direction they are wrapped around the previous petals until all 6 are sewn together.

 

 

 

 

 

Bud is finished and ready to be joined to the Calyx and Stem.

 

 

 

 

 

Joining Calyx to Stem

 

Using one of the strands of yarn from the tail of the stem, sew the gathered center of the calyx to the top of the stem.

Make sure the wire is though the center of the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue sewing the top of the stem to the gather center of the calyx.

The center will continue to gather as each stitch joins the stem since the center will not gather down to the size of the stem.

 

 

 

 

Use the tail from gather the calyx to sew the calyx to the rose bud.

Weave in the ends from the stem after the calyx is sewn to the top of the stem.

The wire should protrude 1″.

 

 

 

 

 

Whip stitch the bottom of the stem with the tail so the bottom of the wire will not protrude from the bottom before running the tail up inside the stem with the wire..

 

 

 

 

Joining Rose Bud to Calyx and Stem

 

 

Insert the wire into the bottom of the rose bud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the tail from gathering the center of the calyx, sew the bottom edge of the petals to the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 After sewing the bottom edges to the calyx, sew around again up to the the part of the calyx where the  leaves start.

 

 

 

 

Gathered Cast On Instructions

 

 

 Place slip knot on “anchor” peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run working yarn in front of peg 1.  Then behind peg 2.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of the odd numbered pegs and behind the even number pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

Ending with the working yarn in front of peg 35.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind peg 35 and back around in front of the next 2 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the bottom loop over the top on the peg with 2 loops.  Continue with every 2 pegs until peg 1 has been knitted.  Now all pegs should have a stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Start row 1 as instructed.  Leave the slip knot on the anchor peg until the first row has been worked.

 

 

 

Picture Details of Petals

 

 

Before seaming and gather center.

Back of work when on the loom but front when when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

Front of work when on the loom but back when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a tapestry needle, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue around the center until on the other side of the center.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gather the center and use tail to seam the cast on and bind off edges with the mattress stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petal finished and ready to assemble.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Calyx

 

 

 For first leaf, knit the first 7 pegs.  Then move the stitch on peg 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the stitch from peg 7 onto peg 6.  Purl both loops as one and then purl pegs 5, 4, and 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And place it onto peg 2.  Purl both loops as 1.

Then continue with written instructions  until you have only 3 stitches remaining.

 

 

 

 

Now to work the CDD.

Remove the stitch from peg 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch from peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2 so that 3 loops are on 1 peg.

Purl all 3 loops together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

Bind off by pulling the working yarn up through the remaining stitch as if working a purl stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But unlike a purl, continue to pull the tail through the loop and remove the stitch off the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the tail until the loop closes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A look at the first leaf finished with the remaining stitches are still on the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the working yarn on the first stitch of the unworked stitches by simply placing the yarn around the peg.

While a slip knot can be used here, this method will eliminate knots in the work.

 

 

 

 

Knit as normal and continue.

Snug up the tail as needed if the stitch becomes loose.

Then weave in the tail later.

 

 

 

 

 

How the calyx looks before weaving in the ends and seaming the sides together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calyx seamed and gathered with tail for sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Stem

 

 

First 2 stitches of knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hold wire behind the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind the wire and back around in front of peg 1 to knit pegs 1 and 2 again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue until 1″ of wire is left uncovered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern written and designed by Renita Harvey.

 

 

 

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May 21, 2017

Sunshine Shawl

I have always wanted a larger scale of the Inara Scarf and after many years, that dream has become a reality. Featuring the drop stitch with different lengths of elongated stitches, the shawl is perfect for those brisk morning or evening walks. The Sunshine Shawl has a diamond design worked with yarn overs on a background of garter stitch. The background of garter stitch makes the design pop even more. A yarn with wool (or natural fiber) content is recommended as the shawl needs to be blocked to show the stitches at its best!

Enjoy!

MATERIALS

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom (or any other of the KB looms with at least 99 pegs–can use the Afghan Loom, the 28″ Knitting Loom, or even (2) Hat Looms assembled together).

Yarn:  Approx 800 yds of worsted weight merino wool. Knit Picks Preciosa in Canary was used in sample; 3 skeins.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers/peg markers

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows=4 inches

Size: Approx 23 inches wide x 72 inches long

ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit Knit Stitch or Flat Stitch will work

P=purl

Yo=yarn over e-wrap the peg in a clockwise direction

Drp=Drop yarn over–Take the yarn overs off the peg

Sl=Slip stitch Skip the peg with yarn in back of work

Diamond Stitch Design

Use the instructions below when enlarging the pattern for a bigger item, such as a shawl.

Multiple of 6 + 1

Row 1: *k2, yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3, e-wrap peg 3 twice

Knit peg 4, e-wrap peg 4 twice

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last stitch

Row 2: p1, *p1, drp1, p1, drp2, p1, drp2, p1, drp1, p1, p2; rep from * to end of row

Purl peg 1

*Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 4

Purl peg 4

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 5

Purl peg 5

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Purl peg 7; rep from * to the end of row

Row 3: *k1, yo2, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo2; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1, e-wrap peg 1 twice

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3

Knit peg 4

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6, e-wrap peg 6 twice; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last

stitch

Row 4: p1, *drp2, p1, drop1, p3, drp1, p1, drp2, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Purl peg 1

*Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 2

Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Purl peg 4

Purl peg 5

Drop yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 7

Purl peg 7

Pattern Notes

Pattern is worked in a clockwise direction around the loom–You will be knitting a flat panel, the first row will be from right to left. Peg 1 will be at the far right and the last peg at the far left. The second row will start at the far left and end at the far right: Peg 1 will be at far left and the last peg at the far right.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 99 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

(Place peg marker on peg 1 and peg 99. Peg 1 and peg 99 are selvage stitches, the stitches in between are pattern repetitions, if you want to make a wider item, simply work more of these repetitions.)

Garter Stitch Edging

Row 1, 3, 5: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Row 2, 4, 6: Sl1, k to end

Row 7: Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 8: Sl1, p1, *p1, drp1yo, p1, drop2yo, p1, drp2yo, p1, drp1, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Row 9: Sl1, *k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 10: Sl1, p1, *drp2yo, p1, drp1yo, p3, drp1yo, p1, drp2yo, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 74 inches from cast on edge.

Rep Rows 1-6. 

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block to measurements to open up the design.

4 Comments

  • Will there be a video of this stitch? :)

  • As of right now, there are no plans for a video. The stitch breakdown is included and it is a fairly easy process.

  • What Cast On did you use? Is there one that will match the basic bind off? It’s absolutely a beautiful pattern! I can’t wait to make it!

  • It used the ewrap cast on and it was tightened after the item was completed.

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May 8, 2017

Shawlette

 

We are delighted to bring to you a gorgeous shawlette designed by Denice Johnson. Grab your loom, yarn, and get started! 

Knitting loom: KB Hat Loom (84 peg configuration)

Yarn: Approx 380 yrds (190 g) of worsted weight yarn. Bernat Pop in Ebony and Ivory was used in sample.

Gauge: not important

Size: Ladies One Size (54″x 22″)

Abbreviations

K= ew knit

P= purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

WYIF= working yarn in front (do not wrap)

Inc1= increase 1

Dec1= decrease 1

Sk=slip stitch (skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg)

Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs and repeated for row

(ewrap and knit peg 1, ewrap and knit peg 2, move stitch from peg 2 and place

above stitch on peg 1, knit bottom stitch over, place wyif of peg 2)

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Stitch patterns changes will occur with a new color section in the yarn.

Cast on 1 st (this is starter peg, the stitch on this peg will never be moved) prepare to work a flat panel

SECTION 1:

Row 1: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 2: sk1, p to end

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 1 until color changes on the yarn (end on peg 1)

SECTION 2:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 of section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 3:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 4:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 5:

Worked the same as section 1

Continue to increase on right side until you reach peg 83 (84)

Now you will decrease instead of increase

Continue section until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 6:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 7:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 8:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 9:

Row 1 : sk1, p row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 until 1 st remains

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave end in. Steam block lightly

Have questions or comments, or simply want to thank the designer for sharing her pattern?  Please feel free to leave a message for Denice Johnson in the comments below. 

 

4 Comments

  • That’s gorgeous, Denice! Love it! :D

  • I love the pattern. I do have a question though. Is it possible to give us a row count for each section? I can’t get Bernat Pop in my area and would be doing this another yarn.
    Telling us how many rows for each section would make it easier to use this pattern.

  • Hi Bev,
    To answer your question, there is no exact amount of rows for each section. Depending on what yarn you use (any worsted yarn can be used) will get your row amount based on the length of that color. You can even use solids and just do color changes.

  • I too am curious about the row count, as Bernat Pop isn’t available where I am either. Hope we hear back from you! It’s a lovely pattern, I can’t wait to try it out.

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Apr 30, 2017

Whirly Bookmark

Sometimes quick and simple make the best gifts.  Bookmarks are a gift that most anyone can use.  Pretty yarn and very little time can make a stunning Whirly Bookmark making it great for end of the year teachers’ gifts as well as gifts for any holiday or birthday.

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN: 2 yds of 2 weight yarn.   Lion Brand Bonbons in Celebrate used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE:  n/a

SIZE:  Approximately 12” in length

ABBREVIATIONS

CO=Cast on

Rep=repeat

K=knit

INSTRUCTIONS

Curlicue Instructions

Step 1:  e-wrap K peg 1, 4 times

Step 2:  figure 8 wrap (see 2 Peg I-Cord Instructions) both pegs and K over, one time

Rep steps 1 & 2 until the curlicue is the length stated in the pattern.  Curls may need to be worked into place by hand.

2 Peg I-Cord Instructions

Step 1:  Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  K over.

Rep step 1 until the i-cord is the length stated in the pattern.

Bookmark

Using 2 strands of yarn held together as one, CO 2 pegs by placing the slip knot on peg 1 and wrapping peg 2   Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  Knit over.

Step 1:  Work Curlicue Instructions (above) until the work curls and is about 1” long.

Step 2:  Work a 2 peg i-cord until the work is approx. 10” from the end.

Note:  If a shorter or longer bookmark is desired, knit the i-cord to the desired length before the next step.

Step 3:  Work Curlicue Instructions until the work curls and is about 12” from the end (top curl should be only 2” long).

BO by moving the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2, lift bottom loop over top, cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in, pull the tail through the final loop.

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 Comment

  • I notice that the 38″ knitting board is available in June 2017. Has it been redesigned? Do the pegs have the groove in them? I just bought one from Amazon thinking that it was discontinued and was disappointed that there are no grooves to guide the pick and it is so much heavier than the other looms, even thought it is longer. Was just surprised.

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Mar 26, 2017

Spring Break Wristers

Spring Break often includes vacations to areas that are still covered in snow.  Fingerless mitts are still needed to keep hands warm while leaving fingers free for smart phones and other touch screen devices. 

 These Spring Break Wristers are quick to work up and can be knit school colors as well as your favorite colors.  The stitch pattern is easy and quick to work while looking like you spent days knitting them.

 

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom 2

YARN: 122 yds total of worsted weight yarn.  78 yds of Color A – teal and 44 yds of Color B – tan.   Classic Elite Yarn Palace in colors #5567 (teal) and 5578 (tan) (55% baby alpaca, 25% bamboo viscose, 20% donegal, 98 yards per hank, 1 of each color)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2” in stockinette stitch

SIZE:  Approximately 7” length with 8” circumference.  Fits adult women.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

s=slip (skip) (unless otherwise stated, slip with working yarn to back of peg behind the stitch)

wyif=working yarn in front (lift stitch off peg, slip working yarn between front of stitch and back of peg, replace stitch on peg)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rep=repeat

CA=Color A – Teal

CB=Color B – Tan

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2.

With CA, CO 36 sts.  Prepare to work in the round.

 

Cuff to Thumb

Rnds 1 – 12:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Add CB

R13:  With CB, K all

R14 – 15:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R16 – 19:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R20:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R21 – 22:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R23 – 26:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R27:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R28 – 29:  P all

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

R30 – 36:  Rep R16 – 22

Drop CA. Pick up CB.

R37:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

 

Thumb Hole with Selvage Edge

Start working flat panel.

Row 1:  With CB, S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 2:  S1 wyif, k1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

Thumb hole with double selvage edges

Row 3:  With CA, S1, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 4:  S1 wyif, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, K1

Rows 5 – 6:  rep rows 3 – 4, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 7:  With CB, S1, *K4, K2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 8:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 9:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 10:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, K1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Row 11:  With CA, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, P1

Row 12:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, K1

Rows 13 – 14: rep rows 11 – 12, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 15:  With CB, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, P1

Row 16:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 17:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Prepare to work in the round.

 

Thumb to Fingers

R1 – 4:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R5:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R6 – 7:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R8 – 11:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R12:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R13 – 14:  P all

Cut CB.  Pick up CA.

R15 – 20:  With CA, *K2, P2, rep from * around

BO using the Basic BO method.

Cut CA.

Weave in ends.

Lightly block.

 

1 Comment

  • These are Beautiful & feminine , Thank you for the pattern. I want & hope to start on mine tomorrow . . <3

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Mar 7, 2017

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

  • I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
    Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
    Can you clarify this for me in some way?

  • Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
    Should there be a yo there?

  • Ginny, what number is this row?

  • Ginny,
    At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
    Row 1: k to end of row.
    Row 2: p to end of row.
    These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

    The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
    Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
    Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
    The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

    Hope the above helps.

  • The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
    Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?

  • No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

    Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.

  • Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
    Now I feel ready to start
    The shawl is gorgeous
    I just hope I can make it
    Thanks for all the help

  • Sorry me again
    I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

    The explanation indicates
    Over 3 pegs
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
    Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
    Knit peg 3
    Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
    Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

    The pattern has
    Yo,CDD,yo
    Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
    Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

    Is there avideo on this or can there be one?

  • How do you do a CDD?

  • Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.

  • I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

    This is the way I would do it:
    3 2 1

    Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
    Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
    Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

    You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

    Hope the above helps.

  • Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
    I need clarification
    Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
    Or
    Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
    Or
    Does it mean something else?
    Thank you once again for your help

  • You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/

  • Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love

  • What method of cast on do you use.

  • Hello,
    Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
    Any help is appreciated

  • This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?

  • The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.

  • Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Deb,

    The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you so much for the video Isela
    It makes things clearer for a newbie
    Much thanks

  • I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

    Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

    Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

    I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

    Thanks! appreciate it.

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Feb 26, 2017

Spring in the Ozarks Poncho

Spring in the Ozark Mountains consist of cold mornings, warm afternoons, and cool evenings.  Light weight ponchos are great for keeping warm when needed.

The Spring in the Ozarks Poncho is knit in 100% cotton making it the perfect poncho for spring and summer.  The unique asymmetrical design allows for more than one way to wear it.  Bright colors make it fun to wear.

LOOM:  28” Loom with Extenders

YARN:  820 yds of worsted weight cotton yarn.  Cascade Yarns Luna in color #9994 used in sample (100% hand-painted Peruvian cotton, 164 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  med adult

 

 

 

 

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

k2tog=knit 2 together

p2tog=purl 2 together

YO=yarn over (e-wrap peg.  Undo the wrap and place in front of peg before working the stitch on the next row.)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 CO 168 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P2tog, k to end

R3 – 4:  Rep rows 1 – 2 once

R5:  eyelet row K1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to last peg, K1

R6:  P2tog, k to end

Continue decreasing every other row by repeating rows 1 – 2 until only 2 stitches remain

Next row:  K2

Next row:  P2tog

Cut working yarn leaving a tail approx. 30” long for seaming.  Bind off by pulling the yarn tail through the last stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold the triangle in half with the long side together.

Seam the 2 sides together using the mattress stitch starting with the bind off point even with the eyelet on the other side.

 

Seam for approx. 20” leaving the rest open for the head and neck.

 

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 Comments

  • This is the first loom pattern I have truly loved. I plan to print it so I can make it. Great job!

  • I meant for a clothing item.

  • I love this! I hope to make it!

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Feb 14, 2017

Lovely Bun Hat

In love with February and its promises of warm weather; the sun shines brighter, the afternoons get longer, and the specks of red surround us as a reminder of life!

LOOM: Hat loom, 42 pegs at large gauge.

YARN:  Approx 90 yards bulky merino blend yarn (85 yds MC, 5 yds CC). Cascade Yarns Pacific Bulky in Cream (MC) and Ruby (CC) were used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook (to bind off).

GAUGE: 10.25 sts x 15 rows=4” in stockinette.

SIZE:  Fits youth, up to 19” head.

ABBREVIATIONS

K=Knit stitch (recommend the true knit stitch, not the ewrap).
P=Purl stitch
CO=Cast on
Approx=Approximately
BBO=Basic bind off method
MC=Main color (cream)
CC=Contrasting color (ruby)
Rnd(s)=Round(s)
St(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble the knitting loom to 42, at large gauge.

With MC, CO 42 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-10: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. (Approx 3”)
Rnd 11: k to end of rnd.
Rep Rnd 11: until item measures approx. 7” from CO edge.

Remove all stitches from the knitting loom to a piece of scrap yarn.

Using crochet hook, start bind off 2 sts at a time.

Video:

Using CC yarn and tapestry needle, use the duplicate stitch technique to place the heart motif on the hat.

Weave in all ends. Gently tug on the hat vertically to set the stitches. Block lightly.

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Feb 12, 2017

Gardens in Giverny

Giverny is a community near the River Seine.  It is a place that Claude Monet once called home.  In Giverny, he created beautiful gardens which served as inspiration for many of his paintings, including his famous Water Lilies series.  The colors in this lovely wrap felt very botanical to me.  The elongated stitches give the wrap a gorgeous drape and flowing feel.  I hope you will enjoy creating a ‘Garden’ of your very own.

 

LOOM:  18” All-n-One Loom

YARN:  2 skeins Red Heart Soft in Guacamole and 1 skein Red Heart Soft in Watercolors.

NOTIONS:  Knitting Tool, Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Tape Measure, Cable Needle

GAUGE: 16 sts and 24 rows = 4” in twisted stockinette

SIZE:  14” x 40” before blocking

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

CO=Cast on

k=knit stitch (note: the u-wrap knit stitch is recommended for this project)

k2tog=knit 2 together

p=purl stitch

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

st(s)=stitch(es)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Using the Guacamole yarn, cast on 62 stitches.

Rows 1, 3 & 5:  Knit all stitches.

Rows 2, 4 & 6:  Purl all stitches.

Row 7:  *Knit peg.  Wrap same peg 4 times.  Rep from * to end of row.

Row 8:  Peg 1- begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.  *Next 6 pegs – drop the top 4 wraps from each peg.  Each peg will have a stitch on it and a long loop behind it.  Carefully place the stitches from pegs 6, 5, and 4 on the cable needle.  Drop the cable needle to the center of the loom temporarily.  Move the stitch from peg 3 to peg 6, the stitch from peg 2 to peg 5, and the stitch from peg 1 to peg 4.  From the cable needle – move stitch 4 to peg 1, stitch 5 to peg 2, and stitch 6 to peg 3.  Purl pegs 1-6.  Rep from * until the last peg.  Last peg – begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.

Using the Watercolors yarn, repeat rows 1-8.

Alternate colors and repeat rows 1-8 until panel reaches approximately 40” in length.  End with the Guacamole yarn.  Continuing with the Guacamole color, repeat rows 1-6 once more.

Remove panel from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Lightly steam to block.

 

ASSEMBLY

Lay the knitted panel down.

Fold the left side down as shown below:

Fold the right side down as shown below:

Seam the two sides together using the tapestry needle:

 

The following pictures are close up shots of the seaming process:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the seaming is finished, complete the project by weaving in the yarn ends.

 

 

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7 Comments

  • What a beautiful design, Jenny…so elegant and definitely brings garden-y thoughts to mind! :)

  • Jenny this is truly amazing looking you seize to amaze me with your loom knitting talents

  • Jenny this is absolutely stunning! I love the imagery that you painted for me :).

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you, Kathy! That is very kind of you to say :)

  • ps- I have wanted to visit France since I was in high school, lol. Maybe I will one day find my way there :)

  • Thank you, Sunshine!

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Jan 29, 2017

Eureka Knee Highs

Keep your feet and legs comfy and warm with these knee highs knit in luxurious merino superwash wool.  Wear them pulled up for knee highs or let them gather around the ankles as slouchy socks.

KNITTING LOOM: Sock Loom 2

YARN:  300 yrds of worsted weight superwash wool yarn.  Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash in color #43 (100% superwash merino wool, 218 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles

GAUGE: 10 sts x 16 rounds = 2” in flat knit stitch

SIZE:  Fits a women’s size 8.  To make the socks larger/smaller, work more/less rounds in the foot area.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (note: Work the knits on cuff with the true knit stitch.  Work the knits on the rest of the sock with the flat knit stitch.).

p=purl stitch, CO=Cast on, st(s)=stitch(es), rnd(s)=round(s), Rep=repeat, W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the stitch from the peg.  Wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it to the back of the peg and around to the front of the peg so the working yarn ends up at the front of the loom ready to work the next stitch.)

INSTRUCTIONS (Make 2)

CO 40 pegs and prepare to work in the round

Leg

Rnds 1 – 15: P all

Rnds 16 – 20:  K all

Rnds 21 – 30:  P all

Rnds 31 – 75:  rep rnds 16 – 30, 3 times

Rnds 76 – 80:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Rnds 81 – 95:  K all

 

Heel

Short row heel over 20 pegs

Row 1:  K pegs 1 – 19, W&T peg 20

Row 2:  K pegs 19 – 2, W&T peg 1

Row 3:  K pegs 2 – 18, W&T peg 19

Row 4:  K pegs 18 – 3, W&T peg 2

Row 5:  K pegs 3 – 17, W&T peg 18

Row 6:  K pegs 17 – 4, W&T peg 3

Row 7:  K pegs 4 – 16, W&T peg 17

Row 8:  K pegs 16 – 5, W&T peg 4

Row 9:  K pegs 5 – 15, W&T peg 16

Row 10:  K pegs 15 – 6, W&T peg 5

Row 11:  K pegs 6 – 14, W&T peg 15

Row 12:  K pegs 14 – 7, W&T peg 6

Row 13:  K pegs 7 – 13, W&T peg 14

Row 14:  K pegs 13 – 8, W&T peg 7

Row 15:  K pegs 8 – 14, W&T peg 15

Row 16:  K pegs 14 – 7, W&T peg 6

Row 17:  K pegs 7 – 15, W&T peg 16

Row 18:  K pegs 15 – 6, W&T peg 5

Row 19:  K pegs 6 – 16, W&T peg 17

Row 20:  K pegs 16 – 5, W&T peg 4

Row 21:  K pegs 5 – 17, W&T peg 18

Row 22:  K pegs 17 – 4, W&T peg 3

Row 23:  K pegs 4 – 18, W&T peg 19

Row 24:  K pegs 18 – 3, W&T peg 2

Row 25:  K pegs 3 – 19, W&T peg 20

Row 26:  K pegs 19 – 2, W&T peg 1

 

Sole and Foot

 Next rnd:  K all

Rep last rnd until foot measures 7” from the heel or 1.5” – 2” less than the length of the foot (depending on snugness desired).

 

Toe

Rep short row heel instructions for the toe.

When finished, there will 3 loops on pegs 1 and 20.  Lift the bottom wraps over the top loop on both pegs.

 

 

Grafting the Toe Close

Remove stitches from pegs 40 – 21 and place on one double pointed needle.

Remove the remaining stitches on a second double pointed needle.

Using the kitchener stitch, graft the toe closed.

Instructions for grafting with the kitchener stitch with needles can be found in Loom FAQs:  What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?

Alternate method of grafting:  Using the method demonstrated in Loom FAQs:  What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?, transfer the stitches from pegs 1 – 20 to pegs 40 – 21 and use the kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed.

 

If you have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Renita Harvey by leaving a comment below.

 

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Jan 22, 2017

Nyahbelle’s Mermaid Tail

Every little girl at some point dreams of being a little mermaid. Let your little one’s imagination come to life with this cozy mermaid tail cocoon.

LOOM:  Knitting loom: 28” with Extenders (168 pegs total) + 6 peg sliders (2).

YARN: Approx 2,000 yards of worsted weight wool blend. Knit Picks Chroma, 70% superwash wool, 30% nylon, 198 yds/100g (10 balls) in Lupine color was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Cable needle, knitting tool, row counter (optional), cable needle

GAUGE: 9 sts x 13 rnds = 2” in stockinette

SIZE: 48” L x 17  W cocoon; 26” tail length.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain
st(s)=stitch(es)
cn=cable needle
Back Cross (BCP)=With the working yarn held to the front of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the center of the loom (peg is now empty), knit the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the stitch from the cn on the empty peg then proceed to purl it.
Front Cross (FCP)=With the working yarn held to the center of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the front of the loom between the pegs (peg is now empty), purl the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the peg from the cn on the empty peg, proceed to knit it.

Basic Hourglass Chart-multiple of 8 sts

INSTRUCTIONS

Set the knitting at 168 pegs, using the peg extenders.

Cast on 168 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k8, [work Row 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 12: p8, [work Row 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 13: k8, [work Row 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 14: p8, [work Row 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 15: k8, [work Row 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 16: p8, [work Row 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row 17: k8, [work Row 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 18: p8, [work Row 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  19: k8, [work Row 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 20: p8, [work Row 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  21: k8, [work Row 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 22: p8, [work Row 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  23: k8, [work Row 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 24: p8, [work Row 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  25: k8, [work Row 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 26: p8, [work Row 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Rep Row 11-Row 26: 4 more times.

From this point forward, you will be working in the round. Join to work in the round.

**Next Rnd: work Rnd 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.**

Rep from ** to ** 12 more times.

Next 4 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Remove all the stitches off the knitting loom onto a piece of contrasting color yarn.

Adjust the knitting loom and set it to 84 pegs using the 6 peg sliders, instead of the extenders.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing two stitches per peg.

Next rnd: *k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to end. (84 sts).

Basic bind off.

Centering the vertical opening at the cast on edge (created by the first 130 rows), sew the bind off section flat using the mattress stitch.

Weave all ends in.

Fin

(Make 2)

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p2tog, p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until 20 sts remain.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Mattress stitch together the two bind off edges.

Assembly

Centering the seam from the first 130 rows (where the opening is at the top of the cocoon), mattress stitch the straight edge of the tail around the cocoon, starting at the midpoint on the back of the tail and continuing to the front then around the back of the tail to the midpoint.

 

 

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

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9 Comments

  • I want to say this looks amazing!! I am just having a trouble with the bcp and fcp. I don’t understand “slip stitch to cn” then how the beg becomes empty. Thank you for all your help.

  • You are removing the loop from the peg and putting it on a cable needle.

  • Need a video of this.

  • Is there any way this could be done on the super afghan loom? Just curious. Thank you.

  • Can you do this on the super afghan loom? I don’t have the 28″ knitting loom with extenders. Thank you.

  • Donna, the pattern starts off as a flat panel and then you have to knit it in the round. You could knit it all flat then seam it but as it is written, it was designed to be knitted in the round.

  • Thank you. After reading the pattern I think it would be easier if I just invested in the 28″ loom. I can always use a new one in my collection. I already have 7 different looms you all sell and I use them all. Keep making them and I will keep buying them!

  • I think this is amazing. I have just taken an interest in loom knitting and I am wondering if you can help me with two random questions.

    1. Where can I find that casting tool that is used to cast on? what is it called?
    2. Why do you skip pegs for some patterns and how do you decide which ones to skip?

  • Is there a video of how to do the hourglass stitch from left to right and then right to left? I am confused which part of the cross has the purl stitch. Thank you!

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Jan 19, 2017

Poncho with Fingerless Mittens (double knit)

This poncho pattern comes with matching fingerless mittens.Fun and easy to wear for all sizes-warm, but not bulky! When a coat is too much, but it’s chilly out, this poncho is perfect.

Loom: 28” Loom +Extenders Set up for double knit using small wood spacers at 1 cm spacing

Yarn: Patons Shetland Chunky, 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool #5, aprox 121 yds per skein. Total used in sample is 14 skeins. Color is Med Blue.

Stitches: Stockinette, Knit and Purl

Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Sewing/darning needle

Size: One size fits most adults.

Gauge: 8 sts x 14 rows=3”

Finished Dimensions: 44” wide x 62” long from front hem to back hem.

Poncho is designed in 3 pieces, the Right side, the Left side, and the Hood, with a simple crocheted tie for neckline. Gloves are each worked in one piece. All edging is accented with Purl stitches, and we call this effect, Popcorn Stitches. The rest of the poncho is done with basic double knit stockinette.

Basic Abbreviations Used:  P=purl    K=knit    aprox=approximately    st(sts)=stitch (stitches)    R=right    L=left

The Popcorn is worked on all sides of each, the R and L side. When the pieces are joined together down front and back of poncho, the Popcorn really stands out.

Popcorn Stitch: Work Purl stitch on every other stitch, on both sides of the loom. One row will start with purl st and the next row will start with knit stitch. Alternate the knit and purl stitches as you go across the loom. Directions for starting each row will be given at beginning of the section.

Left side of poncho: Cast on 58 sts in stockinette. Lay anchor yarn.
Rows 1-14: Work in Popcorn, starting first row with K stitch. Work across loom alternating the K st with the Purl st. Start the next row with P st and alternate the knit and purl across the loom.
Row 15: Start row with P st and continue Popcorn for 8 sts. Work 44 sts in Stockinette St, and last 6 sts in Popcorn to end.
Repeat row 15 until the piece is aprox 26” long, less border, or if counting rows, you will have worked aprox 122 rows. For shorter poncho, work less rows.

Neckline/Shoulder: We are creating the opening for the neck.
Bind off 6 stitches at end of loom, or R side of loom. Start this bind off at last stitch or right edge of knit. Place last bind off loop onto next peg with yarn. This will end the Popcorn on R side of knitted piece. On next row, be sure to lift both loops from the bind off when completing this row.

Work 21 rows on remaining 52 stitches. This is the side of the neckline across shoulder. Now, you want to place the 6 sts back onto the right side of the knitted poncho center. To do this, continue row 21 for additional 6 stitches. Lay anchor yarn over just these 6 new stitches. Complete this row with hook over, but the 6 new stitches will just have one loop. You can hook them over after the next full row. Start the Popcorn on this row for the 6 new stitches.
Continue working the next 122 rows with 8 sts Popcorn, 44 sts Stockinette, 6 sts Popcorn.
Work 14 rows in Popcorn so that finish is same as the beginning.

Right Side Of Poncho: Right side of poncho is knit just like the left side except, work row 15 as, 6 Popcorn stitches, 44 Stockinette stitches and 8 Popcorn stitches. Work the neckline/shoulder from the beginning of the loom, or first 6 sts. Before taking this piece off loom, lay next to Left side to confirm that they are the same length. Adjust if necessary.

Hood: The hood is worked with Popcorn stitch around the face. It will fold back before sewing to poncho. (if desired)
Cast On 32 stitches in Stockinette stitch. Lay anchor yarn.
Work 24 sts in Stockinette, 8 sts in Popcorn across the 32 cast on stitches.
Repeat this row until the piece measures aprox 28” in length.
Bind off of loom and anchor yarn loosely with 2 loop method. (1 thru 1 loops). Set aside for sewing.
Make a drawstring with crochet chain aprox 50”, completed length.

Sewing and Finishing:
The 2 sides of the poncho will be joined so that the neckline is lined up and creates a soft rectangular opening. This is where the hood will be attached. You want to seam the two sides together using matching yarn and the darning needle. You are joining the 6 st edges of the popcorn stitches.
Sew with invisible stitch. Join one seam (back of poncho) from bottom hem to neckline opening (back of neckline). When sewing the front of poncho, leave the top 5-6” open at neckline, and sew from this point to hem. Do some reinforcement stitches at neckline opening.
Your poncho is now in one piece-just need to add the hood. Fold the hood over so that the popcorn edges are together. Seam the back of hood from top to bottom edge. Slip the hood on your head to determine how deep you want it to be as this will help you decide if folding the popcorn edge over is desirable.
The hood is sewn to the poncho by matching the center of hood to center of back at back seam. Match the front edges of the hood to the front top edge of the neckline. Tack these points, and a few others in between. This will keep the hood lined up with the poncho for complete sewing. Sew securely all around the neck opening, so that the hood is now part of the poncho.  Do this using invisible stitch.
Attaching the Crochet Tie: Lay the crochet tie around neckline seam so that the ends are equal length at front of hood. There should be about 12” of crochet tie at each side of hood. Stitch the tie to the neckline seam with matching yarn and secure at each outer front edge of hood.
(Optional)  You may want to knot the ends of tie or sew on a small pompom or bead.  Your poncho is ready to wear.

Matching Fingerless Gloves: These are perfect to add some warmth to the arms without the bulk of full gloves. You can make them as long as desired. Measure from base of fingers to about 3” from elbow. This will bring them right up under the edge of poncho. Our sample makes a glove about 10” around the arm and 12” long. You can adjust these measurements as desired.
Cast on 24 stitches. Work 8 rows in popcorn stitch.
Row 9-54: Work in Stockinette.
Bind off loosely with basic bind off (1 loop over 1).
Sew the seam to close in glove. Start at bind off edge, opposite end from popcorn, and sew aprox 1”. Leave thumb opening 1-1/2”. Sew from thumb opening to top of glove at popcorn edge. Knot securely. Make a 2nd glove.

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6 Comments

  • I am using Redheadt worsted weight yarn this has turned out 15 inches widi am trying to block it to 8 any suggestions

  • That comment was for Stitchology above

  • Love the outfit. I hope one day I can make it. I’m just learning. But will give it a try.

  • Beginner beginner! Can any knit stitch be used for the stockinette stitch? Is there any video to go by for this project available for purchase or viewing? I love this poncho!

    Jill

  • The knit stitch for double knitting stockinette is one. We have some videos in the video section of the website that shows the stockinette in double knit.

  • I want to make the poncho but I only have the AIO, I know that I’ll get a smaller poncho, but I wonder if that could work if I set the wooden spacer in the second configuration.

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Dec 31, 2016

Sugar & Spice Scarf

Design by Bethany A Dailey

This spunky scarf is worked in a pattern of threes—three stitch styles and three colors all make for a delightful combination of fun textures and style!  Worked in double knit on the Zippy, this is a quick and satisfying project to whip up on your looms.

Knitting Loom: Zippy Master Set: 4 Zippy Looms, connected to use as a knitting board with 2 straight connectors and 2 regular connectors, 14 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 185 yards of super bulky #6 weight yarn. Sample used Red Heart Grande Yarn (MC: 2 skeins in Oatmeal, CC1: 1 skein in Orchid, CC2: 1 skein in Current, 46 yds/42 m per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)

Notions: knitting tool, 6.5 mm crochet hook (for help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, yarn needle, row counter.

Skills Needed: Double Knit Stockinette, Purl, Half Hitch CO.

Abbreviations:

MC: main color
CC1: contrast color 1
CC2: contrast color 2
CO: cast on
K: knit (in this case, all knits are worked as double knit stockinette)
P: purl stitch
St(s): stitches
KO: knit off
DKS: double knit stockinette
HHCO: half hitch cast on

 

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

This design is written with an extra long length for wrapping around the neck twice.  If a shorter length is desired, work only 2 repeats of the 4-color block pattern, rather than 3 repeats.

Half Hitch CO tutorial (This is for single knitting, but will explain the concept of the HHCO.)

Stockinette CO with a waste yarn tutorial

Double Knit Stockinette tutorial

 

Instructions

First Corner:

Connect Zippy looms to work in double knit with 14 peg pairs (2 sets of 2 looms connect to each other, then connect parallel to each other with the straight connectors).

Using CC 1, CO to 6 pegs (3 peg pairs) using Stocking CO with a waste yarn, centering them on the 14 pegs used on the loom.

Work 3 rows DKS.

At the end of the 3rd row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 4th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 4th row.

Work 1 more row of DKS on the 5 peg pairs.

At the end of the 5th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 6th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. All 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) should now be filled. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 6th row.

Work 2 more rows of DKS on the 7 peg pairs.

Main Body:

Rows 1-6:  Using MC, rep the following 2 row pattern:

Row A:  P all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Row B: DKS all.

Rows 7-12:  Using CC2, DKS all.

Rows 13-18: Using MC, p all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Rows 19-24:  Using CC1, DKS all.

Repeat Rows 1-24 three more times for a total of 4 repeats of the 4 color blocks.  **See pattern notes if a shorter scarf is desired.

Repeat Rows 1-6.

Last Corner:

Using CC2, work 3 rows DKS.

Move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 2 rows DKS on remaining 5 peg pairs (10 pegs total).

Again move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 3 rows DKS on remaining 3 peg pairs (6 pegs total).

Working with just one of the loom rails, move the 3 loops from the peg pairs across to the 2nd half of the peg pairs on the other loom rail. There will now be 3 pegs with 2 loops each on just one side of the loom.  Set aside.

Finishing:

Holding one strand each of the 3 yarn colors (or the colors desired for braids), wrap them around the perimeter of the loom once and cut.  Pull these 3 strands through the loops of the last remaining loops in line on the loom.  Group them by twos and braid the yarn strands.  Make an overhand knot at the length desired.  Repeat this procedure for the CO loops with the waste yarn at the other point of the scarf.

The ends of the braids can be left with a length of tails for a tassel, or as the sample shows, pom poms can be sewn in place for extra embellishment.

Weave in all ends loosely, invisibly sewing through existing plies and stretching during weaving to help keep those large strands from unraveling.

 

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Dec 15, 2016

Messy Bun Beanie

messy-bun-hat-bill

You have probably seen them all around social media, messy hair is in this season, as long as you sport a beanie, you will be in fashion. Now, this is for a messy bun as the opening is big enough to allow the messy bun to go through. 

This beanie has the option of adding a small bill.

LOOM:  Hat Loom set at large gauge with 42 pegs.
YARN:  Approx 80  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Malabrigo Rasta in Purple Mystery (100% merino wool, 90 yds per skein).
NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.
GAUGE: 4.5 sts and 8 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.
SIZE:  Fits adult (up to 21″ head circumference).

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain

messy-bun-hat-no-bill

BEANIE INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Hat Loom at large gauge with 42 pegs (largest size).

Cast on 42 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of rnd. (If you worked a Bill, on the first round, treat all loops on the pegs as one loop).

Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 11-14: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 15-19: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 11-19: 2 more times

Next 3 rnds: k to end of rnd (or until item measures 7.5 inches from CO edge).

Bind off using a crochet hook as follows: transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. Insert crochet hook on last stitch (where the working yarn is located). Pass the crochet hook through the next stitch (two stitches are on the hook), hook the working yarn and pass it through both stitches. *Insert the crochet hook through the next two stitches, hook the working and pass it through both stitches. Rep from * all the way to the end, until all stitches have been crochet. On the last stitch, cut the working yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch. Weave ends in. Steam block to soften the wool.

Video on this can be found at this link: https://youtu.be/KYZJ6gkuaVU?list=PL2-mSMyRmhzWmYWDaCNjuwaN3XGWp6E4B

BILL INSTRUCTIONS

CO 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2: Sl1, p to last st, k1.

Row 3: Decrease row as follows: Move loop from the second peg over to the third peg. Move loop from first peg to empty peg 2. At the other end of the loom, move the loop from the second to last peg to the third to last peg. Move the stitch on the last peg, to the second to last peg (it was emptied when you moved the stitch to the neighbor peg to the right). (18 sts rem).

Sl1, k to end of row.

Rep Rows 2 and 3: until 12 sts remain on the loom.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Do not block. The stiffness of the yarn will help the Bill stay up.

Place the CO edge stitches back on the loom (20 sts), then follow Beanie Instructions.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

2 Comments

  • Is there a way to convert this to the AIO loom since I don’t have the hat loom?

  • Hi, you would have to use every other peg on the AIO. Follow the pattern as instructed with the weight yarn as instructed, when you cast on, cast on every other peg.

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