Browsing articles in "Free Patterns"
Apr 30, 2017

Whirly Bookmark

Sometimes quick and simple make the best gifts.  Bookmarks are a gift that most anyone can use.  Pretty yarn and very little time can make a stunning Whirly Bookmark making it great for end of the year teachers’ gifts as well as gifts for any holiday or birthday.

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN: 2 yds of 2 weight yarn.   Lion Brand Bonbons in Celebrate used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE:  n/a

SIZE:  Approximately 12” in length

ABBREVIATIONS

CO=Cast on

Rep=repeat

K=knit

INSTRUCTIONS

Curlicue Instructions

Step 1:  e-wrap K peg 1, 4 times

Step 2:  figure 8 wrap (see 2 Peg I-Cord Instructions) both pegs and K over, one time

Rep steps 1 & 2 until the curlicue is the length stated in the pattern.  Curls may need to be worked into place by hand.

2 Peg I-Cord Instructions

Step 1:  Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  K over.

Rep step 1 until the i-cord is the length stated in the pattern.

Bookmark

Using 2 strands of yarn held together as one, CO 2 pegs by placing the slip knot on peg 1 and wrapping peg 2   Wrap both pegs in a figure 8 by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2, then behind peg 2, around the front and between pegs 1 and 2.  Knit over.

Step 1:  Work Curlicue Instructions (above) until the work curls and is about 1” long.

Step 2:  Work a 2 peg i-cord until the work is approx. 10” from the end.

Note:  If a shorter or longer bookmark is desired, knit the i-cord to the desired length before the next step.

Step 3:  Work Curlicue Instructions until the work curls and is about 12” from the end (top curl should be only 2” long).

BO by moving the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2, lift bottom loop over top, cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in, pull the tail through the final loop.

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Apr 3, 2017

Slip Stitch Braid: Stitchology 31

This lovely stitch is perfect for spring knitting.  It contains pretty braids that almost look woven in appearance.  This technique is created by using slipped stitches combined with 1 over 2 cables.  Don’t let those cables cause you any dismay, because they are super simple to work with the help of that elongated slipped stitch.  Repeated throughout a project, this stitch makes me think of baby knits, socks, or even a lovely hat (anything that the back isn’t going to necessarily be a feature).  Change the color every two rows and the look goes from delicate to Wow!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

 

Special Stitch Instructions

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 5—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

**The stitch pattern does call for e-wrapping particular stitches. Wrap them, but do not knit them off until it is time to work these e-wraps into a row.  When it is time, knit off the stitch and then make sure to untwist the loop before working.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a 1 over 2 Right Cross [1/2RC] (a cable with the sts running to the right), and a 1 over 2 Left Cross [1/2LC] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[1/2RC]:  Worked over 3 pegs: Lift the 2 loops from the pegs on the right and place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the farthest peg on the right.  Place the 2 held loops onto the 2 pegs on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 3 pegs.

[1/2LC]:  Worked over 3 pegs: Lift the 2 loops from the pegs on the left and place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the farthest peg on the left.  Place the 2 held loops onto the 2 pegs on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 3 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitches onto a cable needle on the side of the directional slant.  So…for a right cable, hold the loops on the right.  For a left cable, hold the loops on the left.

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

Slip Stitch Braid, Repeating Pattern

Slip Stitch Braid, Repeating Pattern with Color Stripes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The squares in the chart that are bordered with a pink square are the repeating pattern rows.  The squares outside the pink border are set-up rows to be worked only once, before the repeating rows. The chart on the right shows where to change colors, if an alternating color stitch is desired. 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rows

Row 1:  k all sts.

Row 2:  *EW1, k4, rep from * to end.

Row 3:  *k4, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 4: *S1, k2, EW1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 5: *k1, S1, 1/2RC, rep from * to end.

Row 6:  *EW1, k2, S1, k1, rep from * to end.

Row 7:   *k1, 1/2LC, S1.

Repeat Rows 4-7 until desired length.

**Note:  When finishing the stitch pattern, omit the EW in the 2nd to last row and the S1 in the final row. 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Set-Up Rounds

Round 1:  k all sts.

Round 2:  *k4, EW1, rep from * to end.

Round 3: *k4, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeating Pattern Rounds

Round 4: *k1, Ew1, k2, S1, rep from * to end.

Round 5: *k1, S1, 1/2RC, rep from * to end.

Round 6: *k1, S1, k2, EW1, rep from * to end.

Round 7:   *k1, 1/2LC, S1, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 4-7 until desired length.

**Note:  When finishing the stitch pattern, omit the EW in the 2nd to last round and the S1 in the final round. 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

  • Which cast on method would you use for this pattern?

  • Hi Margo :)

    You can use whichever cast on you prefer. My personal favorite and the one that I pretty much use every time is the Chain Cast On. I like this one because I feel it most closely matches the Basic Bind Off, which is my go-to bind off method. ;)
    Bethany~

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Mar 26, 2017

Spring Break Wristers

Spring Break often includes vacations to areas that are still covered in snow.  Fingerless mitts are still needed to keep hands warm while leaving fingers free for smart phones and other touch screen devices. 

 These Spring Break Wristers are quick to work up and can be knit school colors as well as your favorite colors.  The stitch pattern is easy and quick to work while looking like you spent days knitting them.

 

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom 2

YARN: 122 yds total of worsted weight yarn.  78 yds of Color A – teal and 44 yds of Color B – tan.   Classic Elite Yarn Palace in colors #5567 (teal) and 5578 (tan) (55% baby alpaca, 25% bamboo viscose, 20% donegal, 98 yards per hank, 1 of each color)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2” in stockinette stitch

SIZE:  Approximately 7” length with 8” circumference.  Fits adult women.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

s=slip (skip) (unless otherwise stated, slip with working yarn to back of peg behind the stitch)

wyif=working yarn in front (lift stitch off peg, slip working yarn between front of stitch and back of peg, replace stitch on peg)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rep=repeat

CA=Color A – Teal

CB=Color B – Tan

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2.

With CA, CO 36 sts.  Prepare to work in the round.

 

Cuff to Thumb

Rnds 1 – 12:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Add CB

R13:  With CB, K all

R14 – 15:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R16 – 19:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R20:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R21 – 22:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R23 – 26:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R27:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R28 – 29:  P all

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

R30 – 36:  Rep R16 – 22

Drop CA. Pick up CB.

R37:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

 

Thumb Hole with Selvage Edge

Start working flat panel.

Row 1:  With CB, S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 2:  S1 wyif, k1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Drop CB. Pick up CA.

Thumb hole with double selvage edges

Row 3:  With CA, S1, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 4:  S1 wyif, *K4, S2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, K1

Rows 5 – 6:  rep rows 3 – 4, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 7:  With CB, S1, *K4, K2, rep from * to last 5 pegs, K3, S1, P1

Row 8:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 9:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Row 10:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, K1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Row 11:  With CA, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, P1

Row 12:  S1 wyif, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S3, K1

Rows 13 – 14: rep rows 11 – 12, once

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

Row 15:  With CB, S1, K1, *S2, K4, rep from * to last 4 pegs, S1, P1, S1, P1

Row 16:  S1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, K1

Row 17:  S1, K1, P to last 2 pegs, S1, P1

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

Prepare to work in the round.

 

Thumb to Fingers

R1 – 4:  With CA, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

Drop CA. Pick up CB

R5:  With CB, *S1, K4, S1, rep from * around

R6 – 7:  P all

Drop CB.  Pick up CA.

R8 – 11:  With CA, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

Drop CA.  Pick up CB.

R12:  With CB, *K2, S2, K2, rep from * around

R13 – 14:  P all

Cut CB.  Pick up CA.

R15 – 20:  With CA, *K2, P2, rep from * around

BO using the Basic BO method.

Cut CA.

Weave in ends.

Lightly block.

 

1 Comment

  • These are Beautiful & feminine , Thank you for the pattern. I want & hope to start on mine tomorrow . . <3

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Mar 16, 2017

Stitchology 30: Twisted Trellis Stitch

*Updated on March 20, 2017 , specifically Rows 4 & 12 of pattern when working multiple repeats.

The celebration of the Fair Isle has come again…March is the month of St Patrick’s Day!  What better way to put us in the true spirit of all things green and magical than to work a stitch that whorls and twists across the pegs?   If it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Special Stitch Instructions

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

Chart for Repeating Stitch Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Note: The squares in the chart that are highlighted with yellow are fluctuating stitches, depending on how many repeats of the 8 stitch pattern are being worked.  If there is only one set of 8 stitches, these highlighted squares are simply purled.  If, however, there is more than one repeat of the 8 stitches, then these squares become the twists, either right or left, that are noted in the chart and instructions below (see Rows 4 & 12).

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1:  p1, k2, p5

Row 2:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Row 4:  ***When working Row 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Row 6:  p1, LT2, p5

Row 7:   p5, k2, p1

Row 8:   Repeat Row 6

Row 9:   Repeat Row 7

Row 10: Repeat Row 6

Row 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Row 12:  ***When working Row 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Row 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Row 14:  p5, LT2, p1

Row 15:  Repeat Row 1

Row 16:  Repeat Row 2

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise):

Round 1:  p1, k2, p5

Round 2:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 3:  RT2, LT2, p4

Round 4:  ***When working Round 4 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, LT2, p3.

***When working Round 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, LT2, p2, *RT2, p2, LT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 5: p4, LT2, RT2

Round 6:  p5, LT2, p1

Round 7:   p5, k2, p1

Round 8:   Repeat Row 6

Round 9:   Repeat Row 7

Round 10: Repeat Row 6

Round 11:  p4, RT2, LT2

Round 12:  ***When working Round 12 using only one repeat of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these instructions: p3, RT2, p3.

***When working Round 12 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions:  p3, RT2, p2, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Round 13:  LT2, RT2, p4

Round 14:  p1, LT2, p5

Round 15:  Repeat Row 1

Round 16:  Repeat Row 2

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

7 Comments

  • This is a very cute stitch pattern and I like the new format. Thanks for taking the time to introduce us to differnt stitch patterns and the full instructions. Would the look of the backside be suitable for a scarf? Or better worked in the round as a tube scarf? I am currently working on the barber pole stitch pattern and I cant loom quick enough to try this one!

  • Hi CindyB! :) I’m so pleased you’ve been liking both the stitches and the new format.

    The back of this stitch is pretty cute! It almost looks like mermaid scales, or reversed honeycomb. It would make a nice scarf, in my opinion. :)

    Bethany~

  • I had a question on row 4
    ***When working Row 4 using multiple repeats of the 8 stitches of the pattern, follow these directions: p3, *LT2, p2, RT2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, end p1

    As written, the stitch count is 12 stitches . So if i do two repeats of the stitch pattern, That would be 20 stitches? Rows 1-3 are multiples of 8 so how do i make up the difference of 4 stitches on rows 1-3? Sorry to ask…

  • Hi Cindy :) Please don’t ever be sorry for asking a question. I’m always happy to help! …and in this case, you actually helped *me*! :D

    Okay…this part is a little bit confusing, so let me see if I can help explain in another way. If you look at the chart for the repeating stitch pattern, you’ll see that in Row 4 the pattern sort of overlaps itself where it actually extends into two extra stitches on each side of the 8 pegs of the pattern. This row, with those stitches in place, actually begins with a right twist. Because the pattern won’t be beginning the row with a peg it doesn’t actually have, this right twist won’t happen yet. You will start the row with 3 purls, just this first time through the repeat. Then you’ll begin working the pattern repeat: LT2, p2, RT2, p2. Where I actually ended up adjusting the pattern was where to put that little ‘ol asterisk. It should be in front of the RT2 so that the repeating pattern will end with the LT2, p2. The corrections are now included in the pattern above.

    For your convenience, your instructions all written out for 2 repeats of the pattern would be:
    p3, LT2, p2, RT2, p2, LT2, p2, p1. = 16 pegs. :)

    Thanks for checking in so that we could get this nailed down!
    Bethany~

  • Thank you for the help Bethany. I am starting my scarf tonight.

  • I am trying to make the squares as we were doing previously on the loom
    I went to the Ravelry site and found the pattern with the squares that have symbols for the different stitches
    But the rows are different and Rt2 is sometimes LT2 due to the even and odd rows being different?
    If I follow your pattern and just add the border 2 rows will it come out ok?
    Also is there a way to copy the Ravelry chart enlarged?
    I’ve been trying for days to do this
    HELP. PLEASE
    Thanks

  • Hi Ginny :)

    The actual row numbers of the entire square pattern will differ a bit from the Repeating Stitch Pattern, because there have been added additional rows and stitches into the square’s design. Because of this, you won’t use the video to make the square as written. You can learn the stitches through the video, then use the chart’s instructions to work the square correctly. The instructions will generally be the same…it’s just the row numbers that will be different. Also, please see the notes below the video (as well as here in the pattern post), as there were a couple rows that were adjusted. ;)

    As for saving the chart from Ravelry, simply click on the chart so that it is featured in the pop-out style, right click on the photo and choose the “Save As” option to save to your computer.
    Hope that all helps get you going!
    Bethany~

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Mar 7, 2017

Lady of Rohan Wrap

Wrap yourself in warmth with this lovely shawl. A simple heart design wraps around the hemline of this garment, and garter stitch bands frame the front. 

LOOM: 28” Loom (168 pegs)

YARN: Approx 1050 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rios, merino wool, in Ravelry was used in sample.

NOTIONS: knitting tool, tapestry needle

OTHER: 1 Button, size 1”

GAUGE: 22 sts x 27 rows=4 inches in stockinette

SIZE: Approx 23” long x 43” wide

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (the u-stitch was used in sample)

p=purl stitch

st(s)=stitches

k2tog=knit two stitches together, right slanting decrease

yo=yarn over (place working yarn in front of empty peg)

ssk=knit two stitches together, left slanting decrease

cdd= centered double decrease on a loom. Over 3 pegs. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2, knit peg 3. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2.

Stitch Patterns

Heart stitch (chart at end of pattern)

Note: chart has the key for CDD as sl 1, k2tog psso

Row 1: k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 2: k to end of row (all even rows)

Row 3: *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9: *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 11: *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 14: k to end of row.

Garter stitch

Row 1: k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2: 1 Garter stitch ridge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 167 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end of row.

Row 10: p3, k161, p3 (all even rows).

Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 13: k3, *k4, yo, CDD, yo, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 15: k3, *yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 17: k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4.

Row 19: k3, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 21: k3, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 23: k3, *k2, yo, CDD, yo, k1, yo, CDD, yo, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 24: p3, k161, p3.

Row 25: k to end.

^Rep Row 24 and Row 25: 43 more times

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: p3, k161, p3.

Next row: k to end.**

Rep from ** to ** 4 more times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 4 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 3 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 2 times.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Rep from ** to **: 1 time.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn.  You will be using 86 pegs from this point forward.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: the first three stitches, a stitch per peg. The next 160 stitches, 2 stitches peg peg (80 stitches). The last 4 stitches, place 2 stitches on the next peg, and a stitch per peg on the following two pegs. Your knitting loom should have single stitches on pegs 1-3, and pegs 85 and 86, all the other pegs should have 2 stitches per peg.

Next row: k to end. Treat the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Next row: p to end.

***Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end. ***

Rep from *** to ***: 3 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Garter stitch bands
Cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work 78 garter stitch ridges.

Next row: *k2tog; rep from * to end of row.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: (button hole opening row) k3, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Weave all ends in. Steam block to open up the lace stitches in the heart pattern.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Make another Garter Stitch Band as instructed above, except, instead of working the button hole opening row as instructed, simply “knit to the end of the row).

Assembly

Position the narrower edge of the Garter stitch bands around the bind off edge of the shawl. Using the mattress stitch, seam the Garter Stitch bands to each side of the shawl.

Secure button to the Garter Stitch Band that does not have a button hole opening (be sure to line up the button hole opening to the button).

Tips: if you want to make the shawl longer: simply follow Rows 1-23 as stated. Work more rows of Row 24 and Row 25, where this symbol ^ is located in the pattern.

If making it longer, the Garter Stitch Bands must be longer too. Count the Garter stitch ridges on the shawl (the edge stitches created a garter stitch edge), and match the number of garter stitch ridges on the shawl onto the Garter Stitch Band.

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

 

24 Comments

  • I don’t understand what are garter stitch ridges
    Where the pattern says work78 garter stitch ridges and th directions on how to make it longer
    Can you clarify this for me in some way?

  • Also there is a *K2tog*;rep from*
    Should there be a yo there?

  • Ginny, what number is this row?

  • Ginny,
    At the beginning of the pattern, it has a description of how to create a garter stitch ridge:
    Row 1: k to end of row.
    Row 2: p to end of row.
    These two rows create 1 garter stitch ridge.

    The Bands at the front of the Wrap are created in Garter Stitch. What you are doing is basically the following:
    Row 1 and all odd rows until you reach row 155: k to end of row.
    Row 2 and all even rows until you reach row 156: p to end of row.
    The above instructions should give you 78 garter stitch ridges.

    Hope the above helps.

  • The row is after it say to work 78 garter stitch rows
    Also question why does this have to be done with garter stitch bands?

  • No, that row does not have YO. You are decreasing from 20 sts to 10 sts.

    Why the garter stitch bands? That is the way I designed it. I wanted the front to have these bands. Also, the width of the Wrap is too small without them.

  • Thank you so much i am new to loom knitting
    Now I feel ready to start
    The shawl is gorgeous
    I just hope I can make it
    Thanks for all the help

  • Sorry me again
    I need to understand the CDD-centered double decrease

    The explanation indicates
    Over 3 pegs
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2
    Take yarn behind peg 1 and 2
    Knit peg 3
    Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2
    Lift bottommost 2 loops off peg 2

    The pattern has
    Yo,CDD,yo
    Question-When you lift buttommost 2 loops off peg (leaving 1 stitch still on peg 2 -the stitch brought over from peg 3 correct?)
    Then do you go ack to peg 1 and put yarn over then knit peg 2 then yarn over peg 3 then continue with rest of pattern

    Is there avideo on this or can there be one?

  • How do you do a CDD?

  • Ginny, the description for a CDD is above, by the abbreviations.

  • I think I have a video of the CDD but not with the YO next to it.

    This is the way I would do it:
    3 2 1

    Ewrap the peg to the right of peg 1.
    Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 2, knit peg 3.
    Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost loops off peg 2.
    Move the ewrap you placed on the peg to the right of peg 1 to the empty peg 1. Working yarn is at peg 2. Ewrap peg 3.

    You should have an ewrap on peg 1, one loop on peg 2, ewrap on peg 3.

    Hope the above helps.

  • Lift buttommost loom off peg 2
    I need clarification
    Does that mean knit them over peg leaving 1 loop on peg?
    Or
    Does it mean take top loop off take 2 loops off and return top loop on to peg?
    Or
    Does it mean something else?
    Thank you once again for your help

  • You lift them off, also known as knitting over, leaving only 1 loop on the peg. Simply go to the peg, lift the bottommost two loops up and off the peg. If you are on Facebook, we have a FB group where we are discussing this wrap and we have file on the stitch breakdown. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1278218605557139/

  • Beautiful, beautiful pattern and thanks for sharing. love love

  • What method of cast on do you use.

  • Hello,
    Could you tell me what the best way to make this wider would be? My mother in law is a much bigger woman than the girl modeling this cape, but she fell in love with it.
    Any help is appreciated

  • This might sound silly-but where do you start the heart pattern?

  • The heart stitch pattern starts on row 11 of the pattern.

  • Mary, I used the ewrap cast on. I use the tightening technique to tighten the cast on when I have completed the project.

  • Thank you!

  • Hi Deb,

    The easiest way to widen it would be to create two pieces of the main panel, the area that says Cast on 167 sts, but instead of casting on 167 sts, cast on 161 sts, omitting the first 3 sts and the last 3 sts that are done in garter stitch. Create two of those panels, seam them together. Create the garter stitch bands as instructed. This will create an item that is twice as wide.

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you so much for the video Isela
    It makes things clearer for a newbie
    Much thanks

  • I have braindead, Could you please explain this.

    Row 11: k3, *k4, ssk, yo, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

    Just the rep from *to last 4 sts, k4

    I have skip around and just picked out one that is used a lot.

    Thanks! appreciate it.

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Feb 26, 2017

Spring in the Ozarks Poncho

Spring in the Ozark Mountains consist of cold mornings, warm afternoons, and cool evenings.  Light weight ponchos are great for keeping warm when needed.

The Spring in the Ozarks Poncho is knit in 100% cotton making it the perfect poncho for spring and summer.  The unique asymmetrical design allows for more than one way to wear it.  Bright colors make it fun to wear.

LOOM:  28” Loom with Extenders

YARN:  820 yds of worsted weight cotton yarn.  Cascade Yarns Luna in color #9994 used in sample (100% hand-painted Peruvian cotton, 164 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  med adult

 

 

 

 

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

k2tog=knit 2 together

p2tog=purl 2 together

YO=yarn over (e-wrap peg.  Undo the wrap and place in front of peg before working the stitch on the next row.)

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 CO 168 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P2tog, k to end

R3 – 4:  Rep rows 1 – 2 once

R5:  eyelet row K1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to last peg, K1

R6:  P2tog, k to end

Continue decreasing every other row by repeating rows 1 – 2 until only 2 stitches remain

Next row:  K2

Next row:  P2tog

Cut working yarn leaving a tail approx. 30” long for seaming.  Bind off by pulling the yarn tail through the last stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold the triangle in half with the long side together.

Seam the 2 sides together using the mattress stitch starting with the bind off point even with the eyelet on the other side.

 

Seam for approx. 20” leaving the rest open for the head and neck.

 

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 Comments

  • This is the first loom pattern I have truly loved. I plan to print it so I can make it. Great job!

  • I meant for a clothing item.

  • I love this! I hope to make it!

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Feb 14, 2017

Lovely Bun Hat

In love with February and its promises of warm weather; the sun shines brighter, the afternoons get longer, and the specks of red surround us as a reminder of life!

LOOM: Hat loom, 42 pegs at large gauge.

YARN:  Approx 90 yards bulky merino blend yarn (85 yds MC, 5 yds CC). Cascade Yarns Pacific Bulky in Cream (MC) and Ruby (CC) were used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook (to bind off).

GAUGE: 10.25 sts x 15 rows=4” in stockinette.

SIZE:  Fits youth, up to 19” head.

ABBREVIATIONS

K=Knit stitch (recommend the true knit stitch, not the ewrap).
P=Purl stitch
CO=Cast on
Approx=Approximately
BBO=Basic bind off method
MC=Main color (cream)
CC=Contrasting color (ruby)
Rnd(s)=Round(s)
St(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble the knitting loom to 42, at large gauge.

With MC, CO 42 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-10: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. (Approx 3”)
Rnd 11: k to end of rnd.
Rep Rnd 11: until item measures approx. 7” from CO edge.

Remove all stitches from the knitting loom to a piece of scrap yarn.

Using crochet hook, start bind off 2 sts at a time.

Video:

Using CC yarn and tapestry needle, use the duplicate stitch technique to place the heart motif on the hat.

Weave in all ends. Gently tug on the hat vertically to set the stitches. Block lightly.

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Feb 12, 2017

Gardens in Giverny

Giverny is a community near the River Seine.  It is a place that Claude Monet once called home.  In Giverny, he created beautiful gardens which served as inspiration for many of his paintings, including his famous Water Lilies series.  The colors in this lovely wrap felt very botanical to me.  The elongated stitches give the wrap a gorgeous drape and flowing feel.  I hope you will enjoy creating a ‘Garden’ of your very own.

 

LOOM:  18” All-n-One Loom

YARN:  2 skeins Red Heart Soft in Guacamole and 1 skein Red Heart Soft in Watercolors.

NOTIONS:  Knitting Tool, Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Tape Measure, Cable Needle

GAUGE: 16 sts and 24 rows = 4” in twisted stockinette

SIZE:  14” x 40” before blocking

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

CO=Cast on

k=knit stitch (note: the u-wrap knit stitch is recommended for this project)

k2tog=knit 2 together

p=purl stitch

rnd(s)=round(s)

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

st(s)=stitch(es)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Using the Guacamole yarn, cast on 62 stitches.

Rows 1, 3 & 5:  Knit all stitches.

Rows 2, 4 & 6:  Purl all stitches.

Row 7:  *Knit peg.  Wrap same peg 4 times.  Rep from * to end of row.

Row 8:  Peg 1- begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.  *Next 6 pegs – drop the top 4 wraps from each peg.  Each peg will have a stitch on it and a long loop behind it.  Carefully place the stitches from pegs 6, 5, and 4 on the cable needle.  Drop the cable needle to the center of the loom temporarily.  Move the stitch from peg 3 to peg 6, the stitch from peg 2 to peg 5, and the stitch from peg 1 to peg 4.  From the cable needle – move stitch 4 to peg 1, stitch 5 to peg 2, and stitch 6 to peg 3.  Purl pegs 1-6.  Rep from * until the last peg.  Last peg – begin purl in bottom stitch on peg.  Drop top 4 wraps from peg.  Finish purl stitch.

Using the Watercolors yarn, repeat rows 1-8.

Alternate colors and repeat rows 1-8 until panel reaches approximately 40” in length.  End with the Guacamole yarn.  Continuing with the Guacamole color, repeat rows 1-6 once more.

Remove panel from the loom using the basic bind off method.  Weave in all yarn ends.  Lightly steam to block.

 

ASSEMBLY

Lay the knitted panel down.

Fold the left side down as shown below:

Fold the right side down as shown below:

Seam the two sides together using the tapestry needle:

 

The following pictures are close up shots of the seaming process:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the seaming is finished, complete the project by weaving in the yarn ends.

 

 

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7 Comments

  • What a beautiful design, Jenny…so elegant and definitely brings garden-y thoughts to mind! :)

  • Jenny this is truly amazing looking you seize to amaze me with your loom knitting talents

  • Jenny this is absolutely stunning! I love the imagery that you painted for me :).

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you, Kathy! That is very kind of you to say :)

  • ps- I have wanted to visit France since I was in high school, lol. Maybe I will one day find my way there :)

  • Thank you, Sunshine!

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Jan 29, 2017

Eureka Knee Highs

Keep your feet and legs comfy and warm with these knee highs knit in luxurious merino superwash wool.  Wear them pulled up for knee highs or let them gather around the ankles as slouchy socks.

KNITTING LOOM: Sock Loom 2

YARN:  300 yrds of worsted weight superwash wool yarn.  Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash in color #43 (100% superwash merino wool, 218 yards per hank)

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles

GAUGE: 10 sts x 16 rounds = 2” in flat knit stitch

SIZE:  Fits a women’s size 8.  To make the socks larger/smaller, work more/less rounds in the foot area.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit stitch (note: Work the knits on cuff with the true knit stitch.  Work the knits on the rest of the sock with the flat knit stitch.).

p=purl stitch, CO=Cast on, st(s)=stitch(es), rnd(s)=round(s), Rep=repeat, W&T=wrap & turn (Remove the stitch from the peg.  Wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it to the back of the peg and around to the front of the peg so the working yarn ends up at the front of the loom ready to work the next stitch.)

INSTRUCTIONS (Make 2)

CO 40 pegs and prepare to work in the round

Leg

Rnds 1 – 15: P all

Rnds 16 – 20:  K all

Rnds 21 – 30:  P all

Rnds 31 – 75:  rep rnds 16 – 30, 3 times

Rnds 76 – 80:  *K2, P2, rep from * around

Rnds 81 – 95:  K all

 

Heel

Short row heel over 20 pegs

Row 1:  K pegs 1 – 19, W&T peg 20

Row 2:  K pegs 19 – 2, W&T peg 1

Row 3:  K pegs 2 – 18, W&T peg 19

Row 4:  K pegs 18 – 3, W&T peg 2

Row 5:  K pegs 3 – 17, W&T peg 18

Row 6:  K pegs 17 – 4, W&T peg 3

Row 7:  K pegs 4 – 16, W&T peg 17

Row 8:  K pegs 16 – 5, W&T peg 4

Row 9:  K pegs 5 – 15, W&T peg 16

Row 10:  K pegs 15 – 6, W&T peg 5

Row 11:  K pegs 6 – 14, W&T peg 15

Row 12:  K pegs 14 – 7, W&T peg 6

Row 13:  K pegs 7 – 13, W&T peg 14

Row 14:  K pegs 13 – 8, W&T peg 7

Row 15:  K pegs 8 – 14, W&T peg 15

Row 16:  K pegs 14 – 7, W&T peg 6

Row 17:  K pegs 7 – 15, W&T peg 16

Row 18:  K pegs 15 – 6, W&T peg 5

Row 19:  K pegs 6 – 16, W&T peg 17

Row 20:  K pegs 16 – 5, W&T peg 4

Row 21:  K pegs 5 – 17, W&T peg 18

Row 22:  K pegs 17 – 4, W&T peg 3

Row 23:  K pegs 4 – 18, W&T peg 19

Row 24:  K pegs 18 – 3, W&T peg 2

Row 25:  K pegs 3 – 19, W&T peg 20

Row 26:  K pegs 19 – 2, W&T peg 1

 

Sole and Foot

 Next rnd:  K all

Rep last rnd until foot measures 7” from the heel or 1.5” – 2” less than the length of the foot (depending on snugness desired).

 

Toe

Rep short row heel instructions for the toe.

When finished, there will 3 loops on pegs 1 and 20.  Lift the bottom wraps over the top loop on both pegs.

 

 

Grafting the Toe Close

Remove stitches from pegs 40 – 21 and place on one double pointed needle.

Remove the remaining stitches on a second double pointed needle.

Using the kitchener stitch, graft the toe closed.

Instructions for grafting with the kitchener stitch with needles can be found in Loom FAQs:  What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?

Alternate method of grafting:  Using the method demonstrated in Loom FAQs:  What Are The Tricks To Knitting Socks?, transfer the stitches from pegs 1 – 20 to pegs 40 – 21 and use the kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed.

 

If you have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Renita Harvey by leaving a comment below.

 

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Jan 22, 2017

Nyahbelle’s Mermaid Tail

Every little girl at some point dreams of being a little mermaid. Let your little one’s imagination come to life with this cozy mermaid tail cocoon.

LOOM:  Knitting loom: 28” with Extenders (168 pegs total) + 6 peg sliders (2).

YARN: Approx 2,000 yards of worsted weight wool blend. Knit Picks Chroma, 70% superwash wool, 30% nylon, 198 yds/100g (10 balls) in Lupine color was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Cable needle, knitting tool, row counter (optional), cable needle

GAUGE: 9 sts x 13 rnds = 2” in stockinette

SIZE: 48” L x 17  W cocoon; 26” tail length.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain
st(s)=stitch(es)
cn=cable needle
Back Cross (BCP)=With the working yarn held to the front of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the center of the loom (peg is now empty), knit the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the stitch from the cn on the empty peg then proceed to purl it.
Front Cross (FCP)=With the working yarn held to the center of the loom, slip 1 stitch to cn and hold towards the front of the loom between the pegs (peg is now empty), purl the next peg then move this loop to the emptied peg, place the peg from the cn on the empty peg, proceed to knit it.

Basic Hourglass Chart-multiple of 8 sts

INSTRUCTIONS

Set the knitting at 168 pegs, using the peg extenders.

Cast on 168 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k8, [work Row 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 12: p8, [work Row 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 13: k8, [work Row 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 14: p8, [work Row 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8

Row 15: k8, [work Row 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 16: p8, [work Row 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row 17: k8, [work Row 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 18: p8, [work Row 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  19: k8, [work Row 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 20: p8, [work Row 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  21: k8, [work Row 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 22: p8, [work Row 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  23: k8, [work Row 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 24: p8, [work Row 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Row  25: k8, [work Row 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, k8.

Row 26: p8, [work Row 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern] 20x, p8.

Rep Row 11-Row 26: 4 more times.

From this point forward, you will be working in the round. Join to work in the round.

**Next Rnd: work Rnd 1 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 2 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 3 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 4 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 5 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 6 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 7 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 8 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 9 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 10 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 11 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 12 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 13 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 14 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 15 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.

Next Rnd: work Rnd 16 of Basic Hourglass stitch pattern.**

Rep from ** to ** 12 more times.

Next 4 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Remove all the stitches off the knitting loom onto a piece of contrasting color yarn.

Adjust the knitting loom and set it to 84 pegs using the 6 peg sliders, instead of the extenders.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom, placing two stitches per peg.

Next rnd: *k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to end. (84 sts).

Basic bind off.

Centering the vertical opening at the cast on edge (created by the first 130 rows), sew the bind off section flat using the mattress stitch.

Weave all ends in.

Fin

(Make 2)

Cast on 84 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p2tog, p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until 20 sts remain.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Mattress stitch together the two bind off edges.

Assembly

Centering the seam from the first 130 rows (where the opening is at the top of the cocoon), mattress stitch the straight edge of the tail around the cocoon, starting at the midpoint on the back of the tail and continuing to the front then around the back of the tail to the midpoint.

 

 

 

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

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9 Comments

  • I want to say this looks amazing!! I am just having a trouble with the bcp and fcp. I don’t understand “slip stitch to cn” then how the beg becomes empty. Thank you for all your help.

  • You are removing the loop from the peg and putting it on a cable needle.

  • Need a video of this.

  • Is there any way this could be done on the super afghan loom? Just curious. Thank you.

  • Can you do this on the super afghan loom? I don’t have the 28″ knitting loom with extenders. Thank you.

  • Donna, the pattern starts off as a flat panel and then you have to knit it in the round. You could knit it all flat then seam it but as it is written, it was designed to be knitted in the round.

  • Thank you. After reading the pattern I think it would be easier if I just invested in the 28″ loom. I can always use a new one in my collection. I already have 7 different looms you all sell and I use them all. Keep making them and I will keep buying them!

  • I think this is amazing. I have just taken an interest in loom knitting and I am wondering if you can help me with two random questions.

    1. Where can I find that casting tool that is used to cast on? what is it called?
    2. Why do you skip pegs for some patterns and how do you decide which ones to skip?

  • Is there a video of how to do the hourglass stitch from left to right and then right to left? I am confused which part of the cross has the purl stitch. Thank you!

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Jan 19, 2017

Poncho with Fingerless Mittens (double knit)

This poncho pattern comes with matching fingerless mittens.Fun and easy to wear for all sizes-warm, but not bulky! When a coat is too much, but it’s chilly out, this poncho is perfect.

Loom: 28” Loom +Extenders Set up for double knit using small wood spacers at 1 cm spacing

Yarn: Patons Shetland Chunky, 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool #5, aprox 121 yds per skein. Total used in sample is 14 skeins. Color is Med Blue.

Stitches: Stockinette, Knit and Purl

Notions: Knit hook, Crochet hook, Sewing/darning needle

Size: One size fits most adults.

Gauge: 8 sts x 14 rows=3”

Finished Dimensions: 44” wide x 62” long from front hem to back hem.

Poncho is designed in 3 pieces, the Right side, the Left side, and the Hood, with a simple crocheted tie for neckline. Gloves are each worked in one piece. All edging is accented with Purl stitches, and we call this effect, Popcorn Stitches. The rest of the poncho is done with basic double knit stockinette.

Basic Abbreviations Used:  P=purl    K=knit    aprox=approximately    st(sts)=stitch (stitches)    R=right    L=left

The Popcorn is worked on all sides of each, the R and L side. When the pieces are joined together down front and back of poncho, the Popcorn really stands out.

Popcorn Stitch: Work Purl stitch on every other stitch, on both sides of the loom. One row will start with purl st and the next row will start with knit stitch. Alternate the knit and purl stitches as you go across the loom. Directions for starting each row will be given at beginning of the section.

Left side of poncho: Cast on 58 sts in stockinette. Lay anchor yarn.
Rows 1-14: Work in Popcorn, starting first row with K stitch. Work across loom alternating the K st with the Purl st. Start the next row with P st and alternate the knit and purl across the loom.
Row 15: Start row with P st and continue Popcorn for 8 sts. Work 44 sts in Stockinette St, and last 6 sts in Popcorn to end.
Repeat row 15 until the piece is aprox 26” long, less border, or if counting rows, you will have worked aprox 122 rows. For shorter poncho, work less rows.

Neckline/Shoulder: We are creating the opening for the neck.
Bind off 6 stitches at end of loom, or R side of loom. Start this bind off at last stitch or right edge of knit. Place last bind off loop onto next peg with yarn. This will end the Popcorn on R side of knitted piece. On next row, be sure to lift both loops from the bind off when completing this row.

Work 21 rows on remaining 52 stitches. This is the side of the neckline across shoulder. Now, you want to place the 6 sts back onto the right side of the knitted poncho center. To do this, continue row 21 for additional 6 stitches. Lay anchor yarn over just these 6 new stitches. Complete this row with hook over, but the 6 new stitches will just have one loop. You can hook them over after the next full row. Start the Popcorn on this row for the 6 new stitches.
Continue working the next 122 rows with 8 sts Popcorn, 44 sts Stockinette, 6 sts Popcorn.
Work 14 rows in Popcorn so that finish is same as the beginning.

Right Side Of Poncho: Right side of poncho is knit just like the left side except, work row 15 as, 6 Popcorn stitches, 44 Stockinette stitches and 8 Popcorn stitches. Work the neckline/shoulder from the beginning of the loom, or first 6 sts. Before taking this piece off loom, lay next to Left side to confirm that they are the same length. Adjust if necessary.

Hood: The hood is worked with Popcorn stitch around the face. It will fold back before sewing to poncho. (if desired)
Cast On 32 stitches in Stockinette stitch. Lay anchor yarn.
Work 24 sts in Stockinette, 8 sts in Popcorn across the 32 cast on stitches.
Repeat this row until the piece measures aprox 28” in length.
Bind off of loom and anchor yarn loosely with 2 loop method. (1 thru 1 loops). Set aside for sewing.
Make a drawstring with crochet chain aprox 50”, completed length.

Sewing and Finishing:
The 2 sides of the poncho will be joined so that the neckline is lined up and creates a soft rectangular opening. This is where the hood will be attached. You want to seam the two sides together using matching yarn and the darning needle. You are joining the 6 st edges of the popcorn stitches.
Sew with invisible stitch. Join one seam (back of poncho) from bottom hem to neckline opening (back of neckline). When sewing the front of poncho, leave the top 5-6” open at neckline, and sew from this point to hem. Do some reinforcement stitches at neckline opening.
Your poncho is now in one piece-just need to add the hood. Fold the hood over so that the popcorn edges are together. Seam the back of hood from top to bottom edge. Slip the hood on your head to determine how deep you want it to be as this will help you decide if folding the popcorn edge over is desirable.
The hood is sewn to the poncho by matching the center of hood to center of back at back seam. Match the front edges of the hood to the front top edge of the neckline. Tack these points, and a few others in between. This will keep the hood lined up with the poncho for complete sewing. Sew securely all around the neck opening, so that the hood is now part of the poncho.  Do this using invisible stitch.
Attaching the Crochet Tie: Lay the crochet tie around neckline seam so that the ends are equal length at front of hood. There should be about 12” of crochet tie at each side of hood. Stitch the tie to the neckline seam with matching yarn and secure at each outer front edge of hood.
(Optional)  You may want to knot the ends of tie or sew on a small pompom or bead.  Your poncho is ready to wear.

Matching Fingerless Gloves: These are perfect to add some warmth to the arms without the bulk of full gloves. You can make them as long as desired. Measure from base of fingers to about 3” from elbow. This will bring them right up under the edge of poncho. Our sample makes a glove about 10” around the arm and 12” long. You can adjust these measurements as desired.
Cast on 24 stitches. Work 8 rows in popcorn stitch.
Row 9-54: Work in Stockinette.
Bind off loosely with basic bind off (1 loop over 1).
Sew the seam to close in glove. Start at bind off edge, opposite end from popcorn, and sew aprox 1”. Leave thumb opening 1-1/2”. Sew from thumb opening to top of glove at popcorn edge. Knot securely. Make a 2nd glove.

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6 Comments

  • I am using Redheadt worsted weight yarn this has turned out 15 inches widi am trying to block it to 8 any suggestions

  • That comment was for Stitchology above

  • Love the outfit. I hope one day I can make it. I’m just learning. But will give it a try.

  • Beginner beginner! Can any knit stitch be used for the stockinette stitch? Is there any video to go by for this project available for purchase or viewing? I love this poncho!

    Jill

  • The knit stitch for double knitting stockinette is one. We have some videos in the video section of the website that shows the stockinette in double knit.

  • I want to make the poncho but I only have the AIO, I know that I’ll get a smaller poncho, but I wonder if that could work if I set the wooden spacer in the second configuration.

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Jan 2, 2017

Stitchology 28: Large Herringbone

**Pattern updated Jan 9, 2017 (specifically Row 5).

The stitch we’ll be working up this month is wonderful for its simple symmetry and lines.  The bold repeating herringbone pattern makes this a wonderful stitch for deep texture and coziness! Worked in this winter white, it makes me think of snow clad forest branches. I can visualize this being used for hats, sweaters, scarves, socks, you name it!  This would also work beautifully as a companion to the smaller herringbone published in the very first Stitchology column as interesting play of texture in any project.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here and here.

Large Herringbone Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight Wool (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)  

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16 sts—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviations
approx: approximately
sts: stitches
rep: repeat
CO: cast on
k:  knit
p: purl
wy: working yarn
BO: bind off

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 1:  [k2, p2] rep twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1.

Row 2:  p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1.

Row 3: k1, p1, k2, p5, p2, k2, p1.

Row 4: k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1. k2, p2, k3.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p37.

Row 2:  k37.

Row 3:  p37.

Row 4:  k37.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, [k2, p2] twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2.

Row 6: k3, *p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1  rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: p2, *k1, p1, k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 8: *k5, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2,  rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Rows 9-56:  rep Rows 5-8.

Rows 57-59: rep Rows 5-7.

Finishing Rows

Row 60:  k37.

Row 61:  p37.

Row 62:  k37.

Row 63: p37.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

16 Comments

  • Looking at some of the past stitches in this series, I can see these knitting up as a wonderful sampler afghan. I am going to get started, so I can have a lovely afghan at the end of the year! This one looks great, and I can see myself making scarves, hats, shawls, and more out of it! Thank you!

  • Oh, that’s wonderful, Ruthie! Thank you so much for commenting and for taking part. I can’t wait to see your afghan! :D

  • Do you mean repeat twice or do the stitch pattern one more time? Just repeat?.Not repeat twice.
    I am confused

  • Hi, Ginny :)

    When you see sts placed inside brackets and then a number after…like twice…then it means to work those sts inside the brackets a total of 2 times. It might say after the brackets: 6 times, etc, but in this case it is only twice.

    Once those sts are worked the number of times listed, then you proceed to the next sts in the line of instructions for that row. Does that make better sense? :)

    Bethany~

  • Yes thanks

  • Row5 Main pattern row indicates 35 stitches
    On the break down after the k3 is there a P2 K2 (stitch row 21,22,23,24) then P2, K1.

  • Yes, you are correct, Ginny. :) The pattern has been corrected. Thank you…good eye!

  • Hi,when knitting flat,do I knit from right to left then left to right on the pattern,(row one right to left ,row two from left to right the third right to left and so on?thanks,jacki.

  • Hello Jacki :)

    The instructions say: Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs.

    The next row would be your beginning row, or Row 1, and would be knit in the opposite direction of the cast on…so right to left. And yes, you would alternate rows when working a flat panel…so for Row 2, you would turn and knit back across the row from left to right, and so on. :)

  • I used Red Heart yarn for this and it turned out 15 inches wide
    I have tried to block it
    To no avail
    How can I correct this.
    What did i do wrong
    I would try again but am afraid of the same poor result
    HELP
    PLEASE

  • Hi Ginny :)

    Well, first of all, in order to properly block something, you need to use yarns with a high natural fiber content. My own squares are knit with a wool or wool blend. Think of it like your own hair: you can get your hair to curl or straighten by using water or heat. This is the way blocking works for knitting. Acrylic just doesn’t have the same properties (it is essentially a plastic) to be able to re-mold itself into new shapes like natural hair/fiber. ;)

    But, even if you could block the square, 15″ probably couldn’t be blocked to 8″. Let’s look at some more ideas. .

    We need to look at what knit stitch you are using. I pretty much always use a U-stitch, which is in between the gauge of a regular knit stitch and a flat knit stitch. If you try to e-wrap, the stitches will come out way too loose.

    If you are using a U-stitch and are still getting a square that is too large, then either you need to knit with a snugger tension, or you will need to adjust the pattern to work with your own gauge. You can decrease the number of pattern repeat stitches that are in between the garter borders, based on the size you have ended up with, to equal something closer to the 8″.

    Also, another trick that I always do is to “snap” my stitches into place by pulling the knitting from top to bottom, vertically. When we work our stitches on the loom, they are at their most stretched out point. It helps to put them into their proper shape by giving them a gentle tug. ;)

  • Thank you
    I was wondering what is the loosest to the tightest knit stitch on the loom
    E wrap
    regular knit
    U wrap
    Flat knit

  • Yes, you have that correct. :) Here is a tutorial and comparison for you to refer to as well:
    http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/2543

  • Thanks a million

  • If I’m using 96 pegs, how do I continue the pattern after 37?

  • Hi Shirley :)

    Well, here is what the pattern says in the Notes:

    “For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.”

    So, in this case, you might not actually use the 37 count. This is just what I used for the square that includes border pegs and 2 repeats of the 16 stitch pattern. For 96 pegs, if you don’t have any border stitches, you could repeat the 16 pattern stitches 6 times. But if you want to fit in some border stitches, you could take out 1 or 2 of those 6 repeats to create a nice border on each side.

    If, on the other hand, you are wanting to use this stitch in the round, then you would simply work the 16 pattern stitches 6 times, and continue onto the following rows of the pattern, no border required.

    Does that make sense? :)
    Bethany~

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Dec 31, 2016

Sugar & Spice Scarf

Design by Bethany A Dailey

This spunky scarf is worked in a pattern of threes—three stitch styles and three colors all make for a delightful combination of fun textures and style!  Worked in double knit on the Zippy, this is a quick and satisfying project to whip up on your looms.

Knitting Loom: Zippy Master Set: 4 Zippy Looms, connected to use as a knitting board with 2 straight connectors and 2 regular connectors, 14 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 185 yards of super bulky #6 weight yarn. Sample used Red Heart Grande Yarn (MC: 2 skeins in Oatmeal, CC1: 1 skein in Orchid, CC2: 1 skein in Current, 46 yds/42 m per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)

Notions: knitting tool, 6.5 mm crochet hook (for help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, yarn needle, row counter.

Skills Needed: Double Knit Stockinette, Purl, Half Hitch CO.

Abbreviations:

MC: main color
CC1: contrast color 1
CC2: contrast color 2
CO: cast on
K: knit (in this case, all knits are worked as double knit stockinette)
P: purl stitch
St(s): stitches
KO: knit off
DKS: double knit stockinette
HHCO: half hitch cast on

 

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

This design is written with an extra long length for wrapping around the neck twice.  If a shorter length is desired, work only 2 repeats of the 4-color block pattern, rather than 3 repeats.

Half Hitch CO tutorial (This is for single knitting, but will explain the concept of the HHCO.)

Stockinette CO with a waste yarn tutorial

Double Knit Stockinette tutorial

 

Instructions

First Corner:

Connect Zippy looms to work in double knit with 14 peg pairs (2 sets of 2 looms connect to each other, then connect parallel to each other with the straight connectors).

Using CC 1, CO to 6 pegs (3 peg pairs) using Stocking CO with a waste yarn, centering them on the 14 pegs used on the loom.

Work 3 rows DKS.

At the end of the 3rd row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 4th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 4th row.

Work 1 more row of DKS on the 5 peg pairs.

At the end of the 5th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 6th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. All 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) should now be filled. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 6th row.

Work 2 more rows of DKS on the 7 peg pairs.

Main Body:

Rows 1-6:  Using MC, rep the following 2 row pattern:

Row A:  P all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Row B: DKS all.

Rows 7-12:  Using CC2, DKS all.

Rows 13-18: Using MC, p all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Rows 19-24:  Using CC1, DKS all.

Repeat Rows 1-24 three more times for a total of 4 repeats of the 4 color blocks.  **See pattern notes if a shorter scarf is desired.

Repeat Rows 1-6.

Last Corner:

Using CC2, work 3 rows DKS.

Move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 2 rows DKS on remaining 5 peg pairs (10 pegs total).

Again move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 3 rows DKS on remaining 3 peg pairs (6 pegs total).

Working with just one of the loom rails, move the 3 loops from the peg pairs across to the 2nd half of the peg pairs on the other loom rail. There will now be 3 pegs with 2 loops each on just one side of the loom.  Set aside.

Finishing:

Holding one strand each of the 3 yarn colors (or the colors desired for braids), wrap them around the perimeter of the loom once and cut.  Pull these 3 strands through the loops of the last remaining loops in line on the loom.  Group them by twos and braid the yarn strands.  Make an overhand knot at the length desired.  Repeat this procedure for the CO loops with the waste yarn at the other point of the scarf.

The ends of the braids can be left with a length of tails for a tassel, or as the sample shows, pom poms can be sewn in place for extra embellishment.

Weave in all ends loosely, invisibly sewing through existing plies and stretching during weaving to help keep those large strands from unraveling.

 

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Dec 15, 2016

Messy Bun Beanie

messy-bun-hat-bill

You have probably seen them all around social media, messy hair is in this season, as long as you sport a beanie, you will be in fashion. Now, this is for a messy bun as the opening is big enough to allow the messy bun to go through. 

This beanie has the option of adding a small bill.

LOOM:  Hat Loom set at large gauge with 42 pegs.
YARN:  Approx 80  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Malabrigo Rasta in Purple Mystery (100% merino wool, 90 yds per skein).
NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.
GAUGE: 4.5 sts and 8 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.
SIZE:  Fits adult (up to 21″ head circumference).

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain

messy-bun-hat-no-bill

BEANIE INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Hat Loom at large gauge with 42 pegs (largest size).

Cast on 42 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of rnd. (If you worked a Bill, on the first round, treat all loops on the pegs as one loop).

Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 11-14: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 15-19: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 11-19: 2 more times

Next 3 rnds: k to end of rnd (or until item measures 7.5 inches from CO edge).

Bind off using a crochet hook as follows: transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. Insert crochet hook on last stitch (where the working yarn is located). Pass the crochet hook through the next stitch (two stitches are on the hook), hook the working yarn and pass it through both stitches. *Insert the crochet hook through the next two stitches, hook the working and pass it through both stitches. Rep from * all the way to the end, until all stitches have been crochet. On the last stitch, cut the working yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch. Weave ends in. Steam block to soften the wool.

Video on this can be found at this link: https://youtu.be/KYZJ6gkuaVU?list=PL2-mSMyRmhzWmYWDaCNjuwaN3XGWp6E4B

BILL INSTRUCTIONS

CO 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2: Sl1, p to last st, k1.

Row 3: Decrease row as follows: Move loop from the second peg over to the third peg. Move loop from first peg to empty peg 2. At the other end of the loom, move the loop from the second to last peg to the third to last peg. Move the stitch on the last peg, to the second to last peg (it was emptied when you moved the stitch to the neighbor peg to the right). (18 sts rem).

Sl1, k to end of row.

Rep Rows 2 and 3: until 12 sts remain on the loom.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Do not block. The stiffness of the yarn will help the Bill stay up.

Place the CO edge stitches back on the loom (20 sts), then follow Beanie Instructions.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

2 Comments

  • Is there a way to convert this to the AIO loom since I don’t have the hat loom?

  • Hi, you would have to use every other peg on the AIO. Follow the pattern as instructed with the weight yarn as instructed, when you cast on, cast on every other peg.

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Dec 5, 2016

Stitchology 27: Little Pines

little-pines

Last December we learned a stitch using cables that formed a forest of Evergreens.  It seemed fitting to celebrate the entrance the holidays with another iconic wintry designthis time using eyelets to form majestic pine boughs. Even though this stitch is a 16 row repeat, once you get the hang of how the rows flow, they can be worked entirely from memory.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Little Pines Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Clary)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes

It really helps to use a yarn with a high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help open up those eyelets and make the bottom edge straight.

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 18—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your eyelets will not be visible, unless you untwist the e-wrap before working into the next row. ;)

To work a S2KP (or: s2tog, k1, p2sso), please see the following instructions:

* Keep in mind that these steps are all accomplished on the same three pegs, worked from right to left: 3, 2, 1.

*  The instructions in brackets [ ] are simply to break the meaning of the abbreviations down to the simplest knitting terms, with the instructions on how to work them on the loom listed directly after. 

    • 1. [Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit 2 stitches together]: for this step, move the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2 and carry the yarn behind pegs 1 & 2 to peg 3.
    • 2. [Knit 1]: knit the stitch on peg 3.  *See Note Below.
    • 3. [Pass the 2 slipped stitches one at a time over the stitch just knitted and drop them]: for the this step, move the stitch on peg 3 to peg 2. Lift the 2 loops one at a time over the top loop.  **See Note Below.

*Note: Work Step 1 once the yo peg has been reached while working row.  After Step 1 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed before the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

**Note: After Step 3 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed after the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: *yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, rep from *.

Row 2 and all even Rows: knit all sts.

Row 3: *k1, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k10, rep from *.

Row 5: *k2, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k11, rep from *.

Row 7: *k3, yo, S2KP, yo, k12, rep from *.

Row 9: *k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, rep from *.

Row 11: *k10, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k1, rep from *.

Row 13: *k11 yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k2, rep from *.

Row 15: *k12, yo, S2KP, yo, k3, rep from *.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)  For ease of working the pattern, place a marker on pegs 10, 19, and 28.  These will be your S2KP pegs.

little-pines-frontSet Up Rows

Rows 1-6: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: p37

Row b:  k37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 7:  p4, k1, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k1, p4.

Row 8 & all even numbered Rows: k37

Row 9:  p4, k2, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k2, p4.

Row 11:  p4, k3, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k13, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k3, p4.

Row 13:  p4, k4, yo, S2KP, yo, k15 sts, yo, S2KP, yo, k4, p4.

Row 15:  p4, k10, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k10, p4.

Row 17:  p4, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, p4.

Row 19:  p4, k12, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k12, p4.

Row 21:  p4, k13, yo, S2KP, yo, k13, p4.

Rows 23-61: repeat Rows 7-22.

Finishing Rows

Rows 62-67: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k37

Row b:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  This square was blocked quite thoroughly to really help the eyelets open and the stitches pop.  It was gently washed by hand, left to soak for a while, then the excess water was squeezed out by rolling and pressing the square inside a towel.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

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4 Comments

  • I just wanted to say thank you for all the work you do with your stitchology monthly column. I haven’t had the time to make them all yet but I appreciate the work you put into them! This one is perfect for the holidays!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Christine! That means a lot! I’m so glad you have been enjoying them. :)

  • I wish you could state what pegs are what in the video. I am blind and when people do videos sometimes blind people watch. It is very hard to figure out what peg you are talking about when you say this peg and point to it.
    I love this stitch and wish II could make it.
    thank You. Judy

  • Hi Judy :)

    This is very interesting and I will try to keep this in mind for the next time I do a video. Since the video is meant to simply be an aid to the written pattern, I hope that if you follow the words written, the technique will make more sense to you. If you have any questions at all in how to work the stitch, please feel free to ask right here! :)

    Bethany~

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Dec 4, 2016

Snow Kisses Shawl

shawl-2

Envelope yourself in a whisper soft shawl this holiday season.

LOOM:  All-n-One Knitting Loom

YARN:  Approx 750 yds of merino wool worsted weight yarn.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Blue Skyes (3 skeins)  was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool.

GAUGE: 8 sts and 14 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.

SIZE:  Approx 24” x 52″ (suggest to steam block).

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

p2tog=purl two stitches together

yo=yarn over

rep=repeat

shawl-5

INSTRUCTIONSchart

CO 106 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: p3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Rep Row 11 and Row 12: until item measures approx 50”

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last two rows, 4 more times (total of 8 rows).

BBO.

Steam block or wet block.

shawl-3

Continue reading »

8 Comments

  • This is so lovely, Isela! :) I love the color and the simplicity of the stitch…so elegant.

  • This shawl looks so pretty! I can’t wait to start! Just to verify when I knit the pegs can I ewrap or did you use another knit stitch? Thank you for the pattern and your time.

  • This is a beautiful piece of knitting. Thanks for sharing. Laura

  • The Knit stitches were regular knit stitches, not Ewrap.

  • You are welcome

  • Thank you! :)

  • Does this pattern use one strand or two?

  • June, it uses 1 strand throughout the pattern.

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Nov 20, 2016

Morgaine’s Capelet

morgaines-capelet-5

LOOM:  Master Zippy + 2 Zippy Looms

YARN:  Approx 264  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Knit Picks Tuff Puff in Silver yarn was used in sample (100% wool, 44 yds per skein).

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle, crochet hook size M.

OTHER:  Button 1-3/8”  (34mm)

GAUGE: 6 sts and 8 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  57” x 18”

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

W&T=Wrap and Turn: Take working yarn to the front of the peg and then take the yarn to the back and around the peg, working yarn ends to the front of the peg. wrap-and-turn

 

RT=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Knit peg 2.

LT=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

RTP=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Purl peg 2.

LTP=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Purl peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

morgaines-capelet-back

Short-Row Wedge Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K pegs 15-23. W&T peg 24.

Row 3: K from peg 23-15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-21. W&T peg 22.

Row 5: K from peg 21-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-19. W&T 20.

Row 7: K pegs 19-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-17. W&T peg 18.

Row 9: K pegs 17-15. P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K peg 15. W&T peg 16.

Row 11: K peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K from peg 15-26 (working the wrap and the stitches together).

Regular Segment Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K to end.

Row 3: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 5:. K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 7: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 9: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K to end.

Row 11: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K to end.

morgaines-capelet-6

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy loom as shown below (total of 6 Zippy and 4 corners, 28 pegs).

zippy-with-6-zippy

 

Cast on 26 sts from right to left (first row will be from left to right), prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: (from left to right) k to end of row

Row 2, 4, 6: p to end of row

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 36 rows: Work three Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 3 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Ribbed Neckline-done in two panels

Panel 1:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 26 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Panel 2:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 24 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row  1-6: *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Assembly

Lay the capelet flat, right side up.

  1. Starting on the left and using long tail from Panel 1, mattress stitch seam panel 1 to the neckline area of the capelet (as shown below).
  2. Pick up Panel 2 and mattress stitch seam it to the remaining neckline area of the capelet.
  3. Mattress stitch both panels together (at the center where Panel 1 ends and Panel 2 begins).assembly-of-the-capelet
  4. Attach button to left side of capelet, about ½” from the neckline.
  5. On the right side of the capelet, so it aligns with the button, create a button loop by crocheting 6 chains.

Weave all ends in. Steam block.

Continue reading »

2 Comments

  • Could we have a video on how to put this together
    I need a visual on this
    And what is a whip stitch?
    I am new to this

  • You mean a mattress stitch? The mattress stitch is a way to seam panels invisibly.

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Nov 15, 2016

Loom Knit & Win

The holiday season is upon us! We have a contest for you and a chance for you to win a $50 KB gift certificate!

We want to see all your KB holiday theme loom knits!

How to enter: Loom knit a holiday theme knit on your KB loom. Submit a picture* to our Facebook page.
Find the Holiday Contest post (it should have the graphic below. In the comments area of the post, post a picture of your submission. Remember, it must have been knit on a KB loom. Tell us a little bit about your knit on the comment–knitting loom you used and yarn.

Deadline: December 15, 2016, midnight MST

Prizes:
Grand prize: $50 KB Gift Certificate
Second Prize: $25 KB Gift Certificate
Third Prize: $10 Gift Certificate

*All entries (photos) will be collected and displayed on our blog at the end of the contest. 

zippy-holiday-contest

3 Comments

  • I love your product sock loom so much that I purchase three of them as gifts. Two of them were destroyed in a domestic violence dispute with my former fiancé. I was so heart broken that he doesn’t recognize the achievements of American made socks, shoes, gloves, & toys that my daughter Ms. Xiomara & I started working on our own designs to piss him off. My daughter and I are so grateful to join your customer base and develop new patterns. Keep us in your thoughts and good intentions always. Thank you for the wonderful creative & practical learning activity that we can do together. Details at http://www.moink.shutterfly.com. Thank you again http://www.linkedin.com/in/yillescas & http://www.linkedin.com/in/millescas

  • Hi, I’ve been trying to post a picture of my Christmas knitted items in the Facebook contest post, but I can’t find the button to post the picture.

  • You can try again. I think we have fixed the issue.

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Nov 14, 2016

Simple Shrug for 18″ Dolls

Whimsical Loom Knits – November 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

You can quickly create this project for your favorite little 18″ doll fan.  Your little doll lover will have so much fun keeping their dollies warm with this soft, snuggly shrug.

img_3669img_3671

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn.  Suggested yarns include:  Mohair Metallic by Buttercream Luxe Craft or Mohair Mountain by Universal Yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, tape measure.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Techniques

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3677

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3675

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a long yarn tail.  Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 14 pairs of pegs:

img_3674

Double knit using the duplicate zigzag stitch until you have a panel measuring 16″ in length.

img_3663

Bind off.  Leave a long yarn tail.

Fold one end of the panel over.

Create a sleeve:  Use the long yarn tail to sew the two edges together, making a seam measuring 3.5″ in length.  Weave in the yarn end.

img_3668

Repeat this process on the other end of the panel, creating the second sleeve.  Weave in the yarn end.

Slip the shrug onto an 18″ doll and you’re all done with your super simple snuggly shrug <3

img_3670

 

2 Comments

  • This is so cute!!! I love the hat, too!! Is there a pattern for that, too?

  • Thank you Catherine. I am so glad you like it. I don’t have a pattern for the hat at this time, but I will work on one and let you know when it is ready :) Have a great weekend!

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Nov 10, 2016

Fairhaven Poncho

Fairhaven Poncho

Introducing one of the snuggiest ponchos to ever grace the knitting world!  It is created with #7 Jumbo Weight yarn, worked in ribs and twists which serve to bump the warmth and coziness of the piece to incredible levels.  This is for all those times it would be so nice to stay snuggled inside a blanket wherever the day may lead!

Items Needed

LoomZippy Looms assembled to allow for 52 pegs— can be 12 Zippy looms, with 4 Zippy corners, or 13 Zippy looms in a row…can also be knit with only 10 Zippy looms with 4 corners, or 11 Zippy looms in a row, if the side panels are worked separately and then seamed into place during finishing.

Yarn: approx. 440 yards #7 Jumbo Weight (Sample uses 9.5 skeins of Red Heart Grande in Wisteria, 46 yds per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)  **Note: it is suggested to use a yarn with a wool blend to help in blocking the pullover to the desired size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size:  This design is either very stretchable or has more swing, which allows for just about all women’s sizes. This is why using a wool/wool blend yarn for blocking to the size desired is helpful.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, knitting pins and blocking pins)

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
rt2: right twist over 2 stitches
lt2: left twist over 2 stitches
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:

There are a couple different options for this design.  It can be worked as a longer poncho pullover as is shown in the photos by simply following the instructions as written.  To work this pattern a little shorter, such as for a caplet or shoulder pullover that ends at just about the elbows, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart for only one of the 20 row repeats, ending with Row 22, rather than the two as written, Proceed to the Neck Shaping rows beginning at Row 43.  Also, the arm holes are not added during seaming.

If working with a shorter loom assembly is desired, the side panels can be worked separately from the back panel. Just keep in mind that this will add more seaming to the project during the finishing steps. For the number of Zippys required for this vs. the entire back panel + side panels, see the Loom section above.  When working the side panels separately, follow the instructions for the first 6 sts, and then the last 6 sts of the Back & Side Panels section.  The back panel will be worked on all pegs in between those 12 sts.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  All cable rows are worked from the Left to the Right. They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Front Panel

Set up Rows:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Row 1:  p2, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2:  k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to end of row.

Main Pattern Rows:

Rows 3-5:  repeat Rows 1 and 2, ending with Row 1.

Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 7:  p2, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 11:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Fairhaven Pullover, backRow 12:  k1, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 13:  p3, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 14:  k1, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k1, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 17:  repeat Row 1.

Row 18: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 3-22.

Neck Shaping:

Row 43:  p2, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, BO 2 sts, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p2.

Row 44: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [lt2], BO right st of lt2. Drop yarn from skein 1 and add another skein to the 2nd half of the panel: [rt2], BO left st of rt2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 45:  p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 2 and pick up yarn from skein 1: BO 1 st, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2,, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 46:  k1, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 1 and pick up yarn from skein 2: BO 1 st, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 47:  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 2.  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 1.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

 

Back & Side Panels

**Note: See Pattern Notes for details on working these three panels separately with fewer Zippy looms.

Set up Rows:

Rows 1-5:  p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1.

Main Pattern Rows:

Row 6:  k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 7:  p7, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.

Row 8: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 11:  p7, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p7. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 12:  k6, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 13:  p8, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 14:  k6, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k6, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 17:  repeat Row 11.

Row 18: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Fairhaven Pullover, side/backRow 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Row 23:  repeat Row 11.

Row 24:  k6, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 25:  repeat Row 11.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 6-25.

Back Shaping:

Row 43:  p7, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p7.

Row 44: k6, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 45:  p7, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p7.

Row 46:  k6, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 47:  p6, BO 9 sts (to peg 15), k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1,  BO 9 sts (to peg 40), p6.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood

Prepare to work just the center 16 pegs to continue the cable pattern up through the center of the hood.  The side pieces will be picked up later and can either just stay on the loom, or can be safely removed onto stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn for safe keeping.

Row 48:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 49:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 50:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 51:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 52:  k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1.

Row 53:  k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Row 54:  k1, p2, work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p2, k1.

Row 55:  repeat Row 53.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 56:  k1, p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], p1, k1.

Row 57:  repeat Row 51.

Row 58:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 59:  repeat Row 49.

Row 60:  repeat Row 48.

Row 61:  repeat Row 49.

Row 62:  repeat Row 50.

Rows 63-65:  repeat Row 51.

Row 66:  repeat Row 58.

Row 67:  repeat Row 49.

Rows 68-87:  repeat Rows 48-67.

Bind off these 16 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood Side Panels:

Working on the 6 side panel sts on the left, place live sts back onto the loom if needed, and work as follows:

Rows 1-20:  repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: k6.

B: p6.

Row 21: k6, CO to 2 additional pegs (these will be on the side closest to the center cable panel).

Rows 22-51: repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: p8.

B: k8.

Fairhaven Pullover, 3Bind off these 8 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Repeat for the right side panel, making sure to CO the extra 2 sts toward the center cable panel.

Finishing

Invisibly seam the side hood panels to the center hood panel, keeping even throughout. Using knitting pins will help with the seaming. When the side hood panel narrows to 6 sts, the shoulder should have been reached.  Seam the back shoulder area closed smoothly.  In order to achieve the raised chain look that the sample shows, stitch the side panel just a bit underneath the BO at the shoulders.

Beginning at the bottom, invisibly seam the front panel to the side panels, keeping the area of approximately 15 rows at the center of the horizontal running cables open for arm holes.  Make sure the two sides are stitched evenly so that the pullover lays smoothly and is balanced.  Continue to seam all the way to the outside edges of the center “V” at the neck edge.  To achieve the raised chain look, repeat the procedure of stitching the side panel just underneath the BO edges at the shoulders.

Finish ends and trim close to work.  For this almost rope-like yarn, it is sometimes difficult to weave in securely.  Feel free to tie the joining yarn ends into square knots. Stretch the knitting as the ends are woven in to help ensure they don’t come loose.

Block thoroughly so that the cables “pop” and the size is as desired. (Sample uses steam blocking)

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

 

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8 Comments

  • That is lovely hon.

  • Thank you, Monique! :D

    Bethany~

  • The cables on this look beautiful!

  • Oh, thank you, Christine! :) They are just simple 2 peg twists, but provide a big wow factor, right? Especially in this Zippy gauge.

    Bethany~

  • Hi I am a little confused about the cast on of 41 pegs when I follow the pattern.
    I’m some how going over to 43 pegs I have done this 4 times and each time when I follow from *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from *
    If I go 2 times is to short and leaves a long ways to the end of the 41 pegs
    and 3 times is to long when adding the end p1. Going past the cast on.
    I hope you can make sense of what I mean and maybe see my mess up. I apologize for the inconvenience I’m stumped and I usually better on videos. I’m hoping you can see wher I am making a mistake I configured the zippy loom set as directed.
    Thanks Chyre

  • Hi Chyre :) Thank you for your question! Yes, the CO really is 41 pegs. The confusion comes from the “repeat to last stitch”. You will be literally repeating those sts until you reach the last peg in line, which then will be a purl. It is not a full repeat on that last time…you just repeat until the last peg is reached. ;)

    I believe this may be the only time in the pattern that this happens, as every other repeat should complete when it reaches whatever number is stated for those last sts. So sorry for the confusion!

    Here’s a tip, in case you run into something else confusing: the front panel is primarily the pattern’s chart repeated, with just a vertical column of purls after repeating the chart three times (so on peg 40). There are also two vertical columns, one each on the very outsides of the repeated pattern chart (so pegs 1 and 41) that are made up of garter stitch (knits alternating with purls). This makes a good reference point to check against.

    If you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

  • Dear Bethany.
    Goodmorning and Thank you so much! I understand that completely now. I really love this pattern and was getting frustrated with myself. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. :)

  • Oh, good, Chyre! :) I’m so glad I could help clear things up for you. No need to be frustrated…I’m always happy to help. I am so thrilled you love the design and are whipping one up! There is a project page for this on Ravelry that you can link your own to, so we can all enjoy it along with you. Can’t wait to see it! :D

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