Browsing articles in "Baby / Kids"
Aug 10, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – Mini Monkey

Mini Monkey

One mini monkey, just as cute as can be
Lounging on a banana bunch saying “You can knit me!  You can knit me!”
so out comes some yarn, some fluff, and the Sock Loom EFG
and you’ve knit a darling monkey, just as quick as can be!

minimonkey

Materials

Knitting Loom:  Sock Loom EFG

Yarn:  Small amount of fingering weight yarn in two different colors.

MC = Knit Picks Stroll Hand Painted Sock Yarn

CC = Knit Picks Bare Stroll Fingering Sock Yarn

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing, needle and black embroidery thread to embroider eyes, mouth and nose.

Finished Size:  Approximately 4” in height.

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Abbreviations:

MC = main color

CC = contrast color

Sl = Slip

K = Knit

K2tog = Knit 2 together

M1 = Make 1

Special Techniques:

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

U-wrap Knit Stitch:  Bring the working yarn in front of the peg to be worked, above the existing stitch on the peg.  Bend the working yarn around the peg, creating a u shaped wrap. Knit the lower stitch over the u wrap.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monkey’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

K2tog:  Decrease- worked over two pegs.  Move the stitch from the first peg over to the second peg.  Knit both stitches on the second peg together as one.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double e-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 5”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, then remove the cord from the loom.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.

4 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double e-wrap cast-on method, cast on 4 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 4.  Take the working yarn behind peg 3, peg 2, and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  Knit peg 3, then peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 4.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. Move the stitch from peg 4 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch.  With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 5”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, then remove the cord from the loom.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.

Make 1:  Increase.  For the purposes of this project, simply cast on a new stitch with the double e-wrap method when M1 is indicated in the pattern.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 24 pegs, in the round.  With MC, cast on 24 stitches using the drawstring cast-on method.  Work 15 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

Work 25 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.

Pull the ends of the gathering thread to cinch in and shape the neck area.  Tightly tie the ends together to secure the shaping.  Weave these yarn tails in.

Firmly stuff the head section.  Pull the yarn tail from the cast on to gather the top of the head closed.  Weave this yarn tail in.

Lightly stuff the body section.  Gently pull the yarn tail from the gathered bind off, gathering just until the bottom of the monkey starts to drawn in and become a bit rounded.  The shape will be a bit like a bowling pin.  There will still be a small opening on the bottom of the monkey.  Whip stitch this opening closed, then weave in the yarn tail. Set aside.

Ears (Make 2):

Leave a 5” yarn tail.  With MC, cast on 4 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.

Rows 1-3: Sl 1, K3.

Row 4: Sl 1, K1, K2tog.

Bind off using the basic bind off method.  Set aside.

Limbs (Make 4):

With CC, cast on 4 stitches.  Work a 4 stitch I-cord for four rows.  Switch to MC.  Work the 4 stitch I-cord for 12 more rows.  Bind off , leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Tail:

With CC, cast on 3 stitches.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for four rows.  Switch to MC.  Work the 3 stitch I-cord for 16 more rows.  Bind off, leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Set aside.

Face:

Leave a 10″ yarn tail.  With CC, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Sl 1, K3, M1.

Row 2: Sl 1, K4, M1.

Row 3: Sl 1, K5, M1.

Rows 4-6: Sl 1, K6.

Row 7: Sl 1, K3, K2tog, K1.

Row 8: Sl 1, K2, K2tog, K1.

Row 9: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K1.

Bind off with basic bind off method.  Using the 10″ yarn tail, sew the face piece on to the front of the monkey’s head, with the purl side facing out.  Weave in both yarn tails.

Finishing:

Using the long yarn tails from the cast on, sew an ear to each side of the monkey’s head.  Weave in both yarn tails for each ear.

Using the long yarn tails from the bind off, sew a limb (arms) to each side of the monkey’s body, near the neckline.  Weave in all yarn tails for these limbs.

Using the long yarn tails from the bind off, sew two limbs (legs) on at the bottom of the monkey’s body.  Weave in all yarn tails for these limbs.

Using the long yarn tail from the bind off, sew the tail to the back of the monkey’s body  Weave in all yarn tails.

Using the needle and black embroidery thread, add eyes, nostrils, and a mouth to the little monkey’s face section.

 

Feel free to ‘go bananas’ and knit a whole ‘barrel full of monkeys’!

6 Comments

  • Jenny, he is so adorable!!! I love him and I want to knit him 🙂

  • Thank you, Isela! I’m glad you like him 🙂

  • He is ridiculously cute, Jenny! 😀 I love how he’s posed on those bananas, too! So fun! 🙂

  • Thank you, Bethany! He does look pretty happy lounging there on the banana bunch, doesn’t he? 😉

  • This is just awesome, Jenny! I love that sweet little monkey face! I think this is one of my favorite little patterns yet!

  • Thank you, Brenda! I appreciate your kind comment.

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Jul 11, 2015

Baby Lion Hat

This adorable baby hat was knit and designed by Beth A. Ferwerda. Thank you Beth for such a fun pattern. Sock Looms are for more than just socks. Hope you enjoy this one!
babyhat_lion

Sizes: 0 – 6 months, (6 – 12 months)

Loom: Sock Loom 1

Yarn: 1 skein each Bernat Softee Baby, Lemon and Simply Soft, Pumpkin Small amounts black and cream, and a little stuffing

Notions: 3.75 mm crochet hook

 

 

 

Note: You will be knitting the hat flat, then joining the front to the back as you knit. The first stitch of each row will be slipped (not wrapped).

Instructionslion_hatback1

With Lemon yarn, cast on 32 (38) stitches.

Work 6 rows garter stitch.

Knit 20 (24) rows.

You will now be working short rows to shape the top of the head. Knit across the row until you come to the last peg. Lift stitch off peg, wrap yarn around peg and replace stitch onto peg. Now knit back across row to the last stitch, lift it off peg, wrap yarn around peg and replace stitch onto peg. Continue in this manner until you have 16 (20) center pegs unwrapped.

Now knit across to the first wrapped peg past center unwrapped stitches. Knit both loops on peg. Knit back to the first wrapped peg past center and knit both loops. Continue in this manner until all wrapped pegs have been worked.

You will now be working the front of the hat and joining it to the back. Pick up first slip stitch loop along left side of hat (the purl side will be facing you at this point.) Place it on the last (left side) peg. Knit across the row and knit both stitches on last peg. Now pick up first slip stitch loop along right side edge of hat and place it on the last (right side) peg in row. Knit across row and knit both stitches on last peg. Continue in this manner as you work the front of the hat.

Knit 20 (24) rows with yellow, joining the front of the hat as described above.

Work 6 rows garter stitch, joining as per instructions.

Bind off loosely.

 

Muzzle:

With cream, cast on 14 stitches.

Knit 2 rows.

Increase at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Now knit 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Knit 2 rows. Bind off loosely.

Ears:

With Lemon, pick up 16 stitches along top edge of hat (where it is slanted from short row shaping). Work 6 rows garter stitch. Now decrease 1 stitch each end every other row 4 times. Bind off. Repeat for second ear.

Sew muzzle to hat, leaving a small opening in the bottom for stuffing. Stuff lightly and then sew closed. Embroider face and eyes. Weave in ends.

Mane: With Pumpkin, chain 10 stitches and attach with single crochet to hat. Chain 10 stitches and attach to hat with single crochet (a few stitches over). Continue in this manner until hat is covered with chain stitch loops.

Optional mane instructions: Create several long (6 feet) lengths of 3 stitch I-cord. Sew these onto hat to create mane, making small loops.

 

2 Comments

  • This hat is absolutely darling! I’m sure some lucky little one will be thrilled to wear this! 😀 Terrific design, Beth!

  • Super duper cuteness!

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May 29, 2015

Flowerett Brimmed Hat

Keep the sun away from baby’s eyes with a super soft brim beanie. Add a little color by accessorizing the hat with a cute flower, or omit the flower and work the hat in a masculine color and you have a hat for a baby boy.

GirlsBeanie

Materials

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom

Yarn: Hat–approx 100 yards of worsted weight yarn. Lion Brand Cotton-ease in Almond was used in sample for MC. Flower–Approx 45 yards total (3 different colors, 15 yards of each color).  Sublime Extra Fine Merino DK weight in Yellow (Y), Orange (O), and Red (R). –

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, measuring tape.

Gauge: 8.5 sts x 13.5 rows=2 inches

Size: 3-6 months

Abbreviations

BO=bind Off

CC=contrasting color

CO=cast on

K=knit stitch

MC=Main Color

P=purl stitch

Rnd(s)=round(s)

SCC=secondary contrasting color

St(s)=stitch(es)

W&T=wrap and turn (lift the loop off the peg, wrap the peg with the yarn (take yarn to the inside of the loom and wrap the peg so the yarn ends up to the front of the peg).

KF&B=knit front and back. Instructions on the KF&B

INSTRUCTIONS

HAT BODY

Using, MC, CO 64 sts, join to work in the round.

Rnd 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 7: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 7 until item measures 5.5 inches from CO edge.

Next rnd: Decrease evenly 8 sts all around (56 sts remain)

Next 3 rnds: Rep last rnd (48, 40, 32 sts remain).

Bind off with gather removal method.

BRIM

CO 26 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to end of rnd.

Row 2: p to end of rnd.

Row 3: k to end of rnd.

Row 4: p to end of rnd.

Short row 1: k23, w&t on peg 24.

Short row 2: p from peg 23 to 4, w&t on peg 3.

Short row 3: k from peg 4 to 20, w&t on peg 21.

Short row 4: p from peg 20 to peg to 7, w&t on peg 6.

Short row 5: k from peg 7 to 26, to the end of the row, picking up all the wraps with the stitches.

Next: Bind off all sts, be sure to pick up the wrap with the stitch as you bind off.

Assembly

Sew the brim to the hat using the invisible horizontal seam method. Weave all ends in, block lightly.

Invisible Horizontal Seam: With the bound-off edges together, line up stitch for stitch, insert the tapestry needle under a stitch inside the bound-off edge of one side and then under the corresponding stitch on the other side.

FLOWER
(make 5 petals as follows)

Using MC, CO 3 sts.
Row 1: kf&b, k1, kf&b (5 sts).
Row 2: k to end of row.
Row 3: k1, kf&b, k1, kf&b, k1 (7 sts).
Row 4: k to end of row.
Row 5: k1, kf&b, k3, kf&b, k1 (9 sts).
Row 6-Row 10: k.
BO with Gather Removal Method. Weave ends in.

Center

Using CC, CO 6.
Row 1-Row 6: k to end of row.
BO with Gather Removal Method. Use tail to seam the side close and stuff the center with remaining tail end to form a little ball.

Assemble
Using MC, join petals together. Add the center ball to the middle of the petals where all five petals meet. Weave all ends in securely.

Optional:
Using crochet hook and SCC yarn, single crochet around the petals of the flower.

Weave all ends in.

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May 8, 2015

Baby Leg Warmers

Baby Leg Warmers Set. Small Logojpg

Knit up a pair of adorable baby leg warmers to keep the baby nice and warm during the springtime evenings.

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2. All-n-One knitting loom can also be used. 

Yarn: Baby Cables Leg Warmers: Approx 100 yds of worsted weight baby alpaca blend yarn. Sample was knit using Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca Brush. Color 2671 (light pink). Slouchy Leg Warmers: Approx 100 yds of sports weight merino wool yarn. Sample was knit using Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash. Color 101 (pink blends).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle (or a stitch holder).

Gauge: 20 sts x 24 rows= 4 inches in stockinette.Baby Cables Leg Warmers 2

Size:  6-9 months

Abbreviations

K=Knit stitch (May substitute with the flat stitch or the u-stitch). Sample was worked with the U-stitch.

P=purl stitch

LC=Left Cross (LC)—done over 2 stitches

Step 1: Take working yarn behind peg 1 (skipping peg 1).

Step 2: Knit peg 2; remove loop and place stitch on cable needle and hold it to the center of the loom.

Step 3: Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2 (leaving peg 1 empty).

Step 4: Place stitch from cable needle on peg 1.

Step 5: Knit peg 2.

Rep=Repeat

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

Pattern notes: It is imperative to use a loose cast on method such as the ewrap cast on. Also, recommend to bind off loosely.

INSTRUCTIONS

 Baby Cables Leg Warmers

~Using the Baby Alpaca Blend Yarn

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 7: *LT, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 5-8: 8 more times (or until desired length).

Next 5 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Bind off loosely with open removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

Slouchy Leg WarmersSlouchy Leg Warmers 2 Small and Logo
~ Used the merino wool blend yarn

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-10: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next 6 rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Next 4 rnds: p to the end of rnd.

Rep last 10 rnds: 4 more times (or until desired length).

Next 10 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Bind off loosely with open removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

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May 1, 2015

Haley’s Baby Blanket

Haleys baby blanket picture 1
A simple baby size blanket pattern to create a lovely heirloom. Switch colors around to create a unique baby blanket.

Haleys baby blanket picture 2

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom

Yarn: Approx 550 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample knit using Hobby Lobby Fantasy. Color: Antique Teal.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: Approx 20 sts x 24 rows= 4 inches in stockinette (unblocked).

Size: 25 x 30 inches

INSTRUCTIONS

Crochet cast on 104 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 11: Slip 1, e-wrap knit to end of the row.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: Slip 1, purl to last peg, e-wrap knit the last peg.
Row 12: Slip 1, purl 8, e-wrap knit 90 pegs, purl last 7 pegs, e-wrap knit the last peg.
Row 13: E-wrap knit to end of row.

Repeat Rows 12 and 13: until blanket is 28 inches long.

Repeat Rows 1-11: for garter stitch border.

Bind off loosely with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Tips: To create color stripes: join the yarn at the first peg of the row, work the desired number rows with the new color. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail, and rejoin the old color (or a new color).

Haleys baby blanket 3

 

About Designer

3 Comments

  • I have a question about row 12. You say to cast on 104 pegs, but row 12 equals 106 pegs. Am I reading this wrong?

    Thank you for your help. ????
    Catherine

  • Actually it’s 107 pegs. I can’t count. Lol. 90 plus 7 plus 8 plus 1 skip plus ewrap last peg.

    Sorry for all the question marks too. Not sure how that happened.

    Catherine

  • Beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

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Apr 13, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – Garden Snails

Garden Snails

Snails aren’t always a welcome sight in the garden, but these cheery little mollusks will steal your heart – but they won’t steal a single bite of your plants!

IMG_3041 (1024x672)

Materials:

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Red Heart Soft was used for head/body; Red Heart Unforgettable was used for the shell.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing, needle and thread, 6 mm buttons for eyes.  Optional: flower or bow embellishment.

Finished Size:  Approximately 2” in length by 2” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques:

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 15” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn up through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and push the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the snail’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 14 pegs, in the round.  Leaving an 8” yarn tail, cast on 14 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.  The loom will look like this:

IMG_3042 (640x521)

Work 10 rounds using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

Work 15 more rounds using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Note:  Because this portion of the project is worked over so few pegs – and the slider bar is set snugly against the end of the loom, eventually, the knitting will begin to bunch up in the center of the loom and it will become difficult to continue.  When things begin to get too bunched and tight, simply pull back the slider bar:

IMG_3043 (640x469)

Use the back end of your loom tool to push the knitted work down between the slider bar and the end of the loom:

IMG_3044 (640x479)

Then push the slider bar back in place, sandwiching the knitting between the slider bar and the end of the loom:

IMG_3045 (640x474)

Now you can resume knitting the remainder of the 15 rounds for the body section.

Remove the work from the loom using the gathered bind off method.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails to draw the neck area in.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Lightly stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Using the yarn tail from the cast on, whipstitch the top of the head closed, pulling the corners into a point as you work.  Weave in all yarn tails and set aside.

 

Shell:

Prepare the loom to work over 16 pegs, in the round.  Leaving a 12” yarn tail, cast on 16 stitches using the double e-wrap cast on method.  *Work 6 rounds using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Purl 2 rounds.  Decrease by 2 stitches.  (I work the decreases over the stitches nearest the slider bar.)

Repeat from * once.  Knit 2 more rounds.  Decrease by 2 stitches.  (You should only have 10 stitches left at this point – 5 on the pegs of the slider bar, and 5 on the pegs at the end of the loom.) Work 1 final round using the u-wrap knit stitch. Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method.

Turn the shell inside out and firmly stuff it with fiberfill.  Using the yarn tail from the cast on, whipstitch the stuffed shell to the flat body section of the snail.  (If needed, pin the shell in place before stitching.)

IMG_3033 (640x480)

Bend the head section upward toward the shell and use the remaining length of yarn to tack stitch the head to the shell.

IMG_3034 (640x630)

Weave in all yarn tails.

 

Finishing:

Use the needle and thread to sew the button eyes onto the snail’s face.  Alternatively, the snail’s face can be stitched on with black yarn.

If your snail feels like being fancy, you can sew a small flower or bow near one side of her head.  Or, perhaps your snail is a boy, and would be quite offended if he were made to wear that girly stuff.  I’m sure they’ll let you know just how they’d like to be styled…

IMG_3046 (734x800)

 Happy Snails to you, until we knit again 😉

 

2 Comments

  • Super fun! 😀 I especially like the one with the straight head, reminds me of Groot, haha! What a creative little project, Jenny…terrific job!

  • Thank you Bethany! I had fun creating these little critters. It is looking like I will be making at least one more snail – with a green shell for my Tristan 😉

    I had to look Groot up, haha. I haven’t seen that movie. Looks like Groot has inspired a little crochet love out there.

    Hope you have a mah-velous day!

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Apr 10, 2015

Zoey’s Toesies

Zoey's Toesies- efg loomSpring seems to be the time the urge hits to whip up tiny projects for those wee babes we know. This little pair of baby booties is just the thing to keep those sweet little tootsies snug and warm, and our knitting urges satisfied, lol.  In my case, a new niece will be arriving soon, so these are named for her. The bit of picot edging and the contrast colored toes and heels add to the overall cuteness, while the elastic yarn works to keep them in place no matter how much baby Zoey loves to kick. 😉

Needed

Knitting loom: KB Sock Loom Extra Fine Gauge

Yarn:  approx. 1/2 skeins Cascade Yarns Fixation: Sock Weight, 100 yards, 98.3% Cotton/ 1.7% Elastic (sample in colors MC: #9907 & CC: Lemon).

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, 4mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc))

Gauge: 8 stitches and 14 rows per inch on average.

Finished sock measures 3.75″ in length and 2.5″ in height.

Skills Needed: True Knit Stitch or U-stitch, Double Wrap Short Row Method (shown in video links below), Chain CO, and Basic BO, Knit 2 Together.

Pattern Notes:

All knit stitches are either worked as a true knit stitch, or as a U-stitch.

The sample sock was knit using an elastic yarn, which makes the sockies nice and smooshy.  The thing you’ll need to be careful of is keeping just a little bit of tension on that yarn throughout the project. This give your socks that perfect amount of stretch…not too little and not too much.  BUT!  You’ll need to keep your tension consistent throughout the project, and on both socks! 😉

**To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post.

Abbreviations: 

CO: cast on

CC: Contrast Color

MC: Main Color

K: knit stitch or U-stitch, as desired

KO: knit off

St(s): stitches

WY: working yarn

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together

W&T: wrap and turn- the method of creating short rows with a wrap, and then a turning of direction mid-row.

BO: Bind off

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Turning of heels and toes:  Double Wrapped Short Row Method  (For those who need it, the Step by Step written instructions are at the bottom of this post)

 

Pattern Instructions:

Set your EFG Loom to use 40 pegs in the round.

Using your CC yarn, Chain CO to all 40 pegs.

Rounds 1-5:  K

Zoey's Toesies- Picot EdgeRound 6:  k2tog every even peg:
(Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2, move loop from peg 3 to peg 4…etc, to the end of the row. To work round, carry WY behind each empty peg and knit all double loops as if they are one.)

Round 7: Carry WY in front of each empty peg, and K each even peg.  All pegs will now be filled.

Rounds 8-12: K

Bring inside leg of all CO row loops back up onto the loom, as you would for the brim of a hat. KO all sts.

Cut CC yarn to approx. 4″.

Rounds 13-22:  Join your MC yarn and K.  Do not cut yarn.

Join CC yarn and using the Double Wrap Short Row Method, decrease on pegs 1-20, keeping pegs 8-13 unwrapped, and the 7 pegs on each side will be wrapped.  (For those who need it, the Step by Step written instructions are at the bottom of this post)

Increase back to a full 20 pegs.  Extend your W&T’s one extra peg on each end to help close any hole created by starting the short rows.  Pegs 40 & 21 will still have wrapped loops- just knit these loops together as one during the next knitted row.

Zoey's Toesies- 3 Cut CC yarn to approx. 4″.

Rounds 23-38: Pick up MC, K all pegs.

Cut MC yarn to approx. 4″.

Join CC and repeat the short row instructions to create the toe.  This time you will not have to extend the W&T’s one extra peg on each side.  Just end the short rows when you have increased back to all 20 pegs.

Trim yarn to ?”.

It is now time to seam the two toe edges together.  The best and most seamless way to do this is to create a Kitchener Stitch.  The instructions on how to work this is found here:  http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/1481

If you feel a little overwhelmed by this grafting method, you can either carefully whipstitch or mattress stitch the toe closed.  Here’s a great tutorial for that: http://www.knittingboard.com/so-sewing-the-toe-video/

Weave in all ends, stretching the fabric as you go, so that the tails will stay hidden.  Trim close to work.

Now make a second sock! 🙂  **Note: keep in mind that because this sock has used a yarn that has a little bit of elastic, you’ll want to make sure that you keep the same tension for the second sock as you did for the first one… or you might end up making the mistake I did and end up with two socks knit using exactly the same pattern, but were two completely different sizes.  Ooopsie! 😛

 

**Step by Step Double Wrap Short Row Instructions:

To wrap and turn (W&T): Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.

  • K19, W&T peg 20.
  • K18, W&T peg 1.
  • K17, W&T peg 19.
  • K16, W&T peg 2.
  • K15, W&T peg 18.
  • K14, W&T peg 3
  • K13, W&T peg 17.
  • K12, W&T peg 4
  • K11, W&T peg 16
  • K10, W&T peg 5
  • K9, W&T peg 15.
  • K8, W&T peg 6.
  • K7, W&T peg 14.
  • K6, W&T peg 7.
  • K7 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 15.
  • K8 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 6.
  • K9 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 16.
  • K10 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 5.
  • K11 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 17.
  • K12 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 4.
  • K13 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 18.
  • K14 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 3.
  • K15 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 19.
  • K16 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 2.
  • K17 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 20.
  • K18 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 1.
  • K19 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 21.
  • K20 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 40.

***Extending one extra peg on each end will help close any hole created by starting the short rows.  Pegs 40 and 21 will end up with 2 wraps. Leave them on the pegs as you continue with the rest of the instructions. On the very next round, treat the stitches and wraps on these pegs as one stitch.***

*To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post. 🙂

3 Comments

  • Great little socks! Getting ready to be a “great Aunt” again in May, they will be a perfect gift to go with the blanket I made. Where do you get the yarn? Is it on-line? Thanks again for the really great pattern. Sue

  • Hi Sue 🙂

    Thank you so much! I hope the babies will like them as much as we do, haha! 😉 The yarn, I’m sure, can be purchased online at the many yarn suppliers out there, but I actually got mine at a local yarn shop (not the big box store kind). I’ve actually seen them in most of those little shops that I have visited.

    Hope that helps!
    Bethany~

  • Adorable! 🙂

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Apr 5, 2015

Chubby Bunny Pattern

Easter Basket Loom Knitted Small

Chubby Bunny is out to bring smiles to children all around the world. He is busily hopping in the backyard visiting his friends and ensuring that the carrots are planted this spring season.

Supplies

Knitting loom: 76 peg regular gauge loom. All-n-One Knitting Loom was used in this sample.

Yarn: Approx 450 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit using Knit Picks Swish worsted in Squirrel Heather.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Other: embroidery floss, toy safety eyes, polyfil stuffing, small piece of felt, rice/beans/corn/beads.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

K2tog=knit two together. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1

Rnd=round

Gauge: Not important for project as the toy can vary in size.

Pattern note: A special cinching method is used in this pattern to cinch the end of the tubes. When sewing the yarn through the final row of loops (without casting off), sew through two loops, skip two loops, sew through two, skip two, etc. all the way around. Then pass around the loom again, sewing through the alternating loops and skip those already sewn through. Removed all loops from the loom and carefully cinch down the first round of sewing and then the second and fasten the end. This method of cinching helps limit bunching and made a more even round.

INSTRUCTIONS

Ears
(Make 2)

Cast on 12, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: k to the end of row

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until you reach Row 46: If you want longer ears, increase the number of rows here.

Row 47: *K2tog; rep from * to the end of row

Row 48: P to the end of row.

Row 49: k to the end of row.

Row 50: p to the end of row.

Row 51: *k2tog; rep from * to the end. There should be three stitches left on the pegs.

* Cut your thread with 5-6” tail. Thread tapestry needle and thread through the final three stitches. Pull tight and weave in end.

Head

This can be worked as a panel, or in the round.  Worked in stockinette (knit every row/round). If worked as a panel, it must be sewn into a tube at the end using the mattress stitch.

Cast on 50 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1- 30: k to the end of rnd.

Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail.

Use the cinching method (see pattern notes) on the cast on round to cinch tight the top of the head.

Before stuffing the head, attach the two safety eyes in the proper place. Placing a small piece of felt behind the face, sew the face on using embroidery thread or contrasting yarn. Stuff the head and cinch the bottom closed with a 15-18” piece of yarn.  Do not cut this yarn as it can be used to sew the head to the body.

Body

The body, like the head, can also be worked as a panel, if desired, and sewn into a tube afterwards.

Cast on 76, prepare to work in the round.

Round 1-60: k to the end of rnd.

Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail and use the cinching method at the cast on edge to cinch tight the top of the body.

The bottom of the body is sewn together flat after stuffing. This can either be done straight across, or with a 1” piece tucked inside on either end to make it more stable when sitting on a table. To do this, hold the tube facing you and using your finger, push a small piece of one side of the tube in, on both sides. Then fold the entire length flat, trapping the piece inside, like this and sew together:

Arms
(make 2)

Cast on 18 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-28: K to the end of row.

Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail.

Assembly: Although this was worked in a flat panel, thread the needle onto the tail and use the method described at the beginning of the pattern. Whichever end you finished on, begin sewing through the loops of the opposite end. Once all loops have been sewn through, remove the loops and as you cinch tight the thread, the two sides of the panel will be brought together. Use the remaining tail to sew down the sides of the panel to sew it into a tube. Secure and weave in end.

Legs
(make 2)

Cast on 24 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-36: k to the end of rnd.

Assembly: Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail . Although this was worked in a flat panel, thread the needle onto the yarn tail and use the method described at the beginning of the pattern. Whichever end you finished on, begin sewing through the loops of the opposite end. Once all loops have been sewn through, remove the loops and as you cinch tight the thread, the two sides of the panel will be brought together tightly. Use the remaining tail to sew down the sides of the panel to sew it into a tube. Secure and weave in end.

Tail

Make a pom-pom about 1-2” in diameter. Trim with scissors to create shape.

Chubby Bunny Assembly

Sew the head to the body. If you want a wider neck, do not cinch the bottom hole of the head as tight. The stuffing will show initially, but as you sew the head to the body, the stuffing will be hidden.

Stuff the body with polyfil until it reaches desired firmness. (hint: use small pieces of polyfil at a time to prevent lumps), sew closed the opening on the bottom of the rabbit using the above described folding method.

Stuff the arms and legs with a mixture of rice or beans or corn or beads and a small amount of polyfil. Leave the final ½”-1” of the arm or leg unstuffed to keep it “floppy”.  Fold the end of the arm flat and sew shut. Then sew to the body in the desired place.

Fold the end of the ear that will attach to the head in half and sew this year to the side or the top of the head. Secure the thread inside the body of the rabbit.

Attach the pom pom tail using a length of yarn.

Weave all ends in.

Decorate with a ribbon around its neck.

Special note: If this is a gift for an infant/toddler, consider replacing the button eyes with embroidery eyes for safety purposes. 

Looking for the Easter Basket Pattern? Click here for the Easter Basket Pattern.

About Adrian Roadman

 

2 Comments

  • real nice set..my g.kids will enjoy them

  • Adrian, love the Bunny!!! I have always enjoyed crocheting and knitting animals of all kinds and know this pattern will be used and join my collection. Thanks for sharing. I have seen yor part of Washinton.
    Sue

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Apr 3, 2015

Classic Easter Basket

Easter Basket Loom Knitted Small

Knit a lovely Easter Basket for your little ones. Created with the typical basket weave stitch and a lovely picot edging.

Knitting Loom: 80 peg regular gauge loom. Adjustable Hat Loom used in sample (All-n-One can be used).

Yarn: Approx 200 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit with Knit Picks Comfy worsted in Sea Foam (1 skein) and Crème Brulee (1 skein).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Other: Ultra Stiff Mesh Plastic Canvas, size 12 x 18 inches—used to hold the basket shape and for the handle. The mesh plastic canvas may be removed to facilitate washing.

Size: Approx 6.5 inches tall (not including handle) by 5.5 diameter.

Gauge: 18 sts x 28 rows=4 inches in basket weave (blocked).

Abbreviations

CC=Contrasting Color (Sea Foam)

CO=Cast on

K=knit stitch

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from odd number peg and hold it, then move the loop from the even number peg and place it on the odd number peg. Place the loop you are holding back on the peg, odd numbered peg has 2 loops on it. Knit the peg with the two loops, and treat both loops as one loop.

MC=Main Color (Crème Brulee)

P=purl stitch

Rem=Remain

Rep=Repeat

Rnd=round

St(s)=stitch(es)

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap the empty peg. On the following row, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg, then work the peg as instructed on this row.

INSTRUCTIONS

Handle

Using CC, Cast on 10 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 49 more times.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Basket

Using CC, Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-3: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 4: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5-7: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 8: Bring CO rnd and place the loops back on the designated pegs. K to the end of rnd, treating both loops on each peg as one loop.

Cut CC yarn and join MC.

Rnd 9-12: *k4, p4; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13-16: *p4, k4; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 9-16: 4 more times.

Rep Rnds 9-12.

Cut MC, join CC.

Next 6 rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Bottom of Basket—created in 4 wedges; each one done separately over 20 stitches as flat panels.

Wedge 1
Over 20 pegs (from peg 1 to peg 20).

**Row 1: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

How to:

  1. Lift and hold loop from peg 3.
  2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 3.
  3. Place loop from step 1 on peg 3. Peg 3 has 2 loops on it.
  4. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.
  5. Go to third peg from the end, lift loop and hold it.
  6. Go to the second peg from the end, move the loop to the empty peg from step 5.
  7. Place loop from step 5 back on peg. Third peg from the end has 2 loops on it.
  8. Move loop on last peg to the empty peg (second peg from the end).
  9. K the row, treat pegs with two loops as one loop (Pegs 3 and 19).

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2 until 4 sts rem.

Next row: k2tog, k2tog.

Next row: p to the end row.

Next row: k2tog

Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch yarn tail. **

Join yarn at peg 21, leaving a 10 inch beginner yarn tail (Beginning yarn tail will be used to mattress stitch wedges). How to join—Make a slip knot and place slip knot on peg 21.

Rep Wedge Instructions from ** to **.

Wedge 2: Over 20 sts, from peg 21-40.

Wedge 3: Over 20 sts, from peg 41-60.

Wedge 4: Over 20 sts, from peg 61-80.

ASSEMBLY

The assembly of this basket is done in two different areas: one on the knitted basket, the second on the plastic canvas.

Assembling the Basket

The first step is to create the bottom ridge: the area that will separate the body of the basket from the bottom of the basket. This area is created from the last six rounds of stockinette stitch prior to the wedges. Thread tapestry needle with approx 20″ CC color yarn. Using the wrong side of the fabric, locate the last round of MC and the 6th round of stockinette stitch and using the overcast stitch, sew all the way around. (Use picture below for assistance).

Creating bottom ridge of easter basket 2

 

Assembling the Wedges

There are 4 wedges, using the mattress stitch and using the yarn tail coming from the first row of the wedge, mattress stitch seam the wedges together. (Use photos below for assistance).

Bottom of Easter Basket 2

Creating the Canvas Inner Tube and Handle

Inner Basket Canvas Tube

Cut the plastic canvas to the height of the basket: measure the height of your basket (only measure the MC section).  Do not cut the length (for the circumference).

Using white yarn or the same color yarn as the project (sample used same as project). Overlap the canvas so that the circumference is the desired measurement, using the tapestry needle and thread, sew the canvas. (See pictures below for assistance).

Plastic Inner Tube

Handle

Cut the plastic canvas for the handle: 1.25 inches wide by 15 inches long. Sew this handle to the tube.

 

Insert tube inside the knitted fabric. (See picture below).

Mattress stitch seam the handle to the plastic canvas handle. Secure the ends of the knitted fabric to the plastic canvas, pulling the knitted fabric to cover the entire plastic handle.

handle seaming

Using CC yarn, sew the knitted fabric to the inner tube.

Seam fabric to easter basket

 

Looking for the Chubby Bunny Pattern? Click here for the Chubby Bunny Pattern by Adrian Roadman.

Chubby Bunny 2 w logo

1 Comment

  • Thank you so much Isela for another great pattern!!! I think I’ll make one to hold my yarn so it don’t go rolling all round! LOL

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Feb 20, 2015

Easter Egg Cozy

Easter Egg Cozy small

Easter is so full of color and warmth. Decorating for this time of year brings a smile to my children’s face. I created this little egg cozy as a way to bring a smile to their face Easter morning when they opened the fridge. The design is small and you can complete a small cozy in less than 2 hours.

PATTERN INFORMATION

Knitting Loom: Knitting loom in regular gauge. Samples were knit using All-n-One knitting loom (AIO)

Yarn: Approx 25 yds of worsted weight wool for body. Approx 10  inches of contrasting color yarn for embroidery. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Pink and Black (for the face embroidery) for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy. Sample used Knit Pick Swish Worsted in White and Pink (approx 15 yards of each color).

Notions: knitting tool, and tapestry needle.

Gauge: 10.5 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stockinette (not blocked)

Size: Fits a large size egg.

Abbreviations

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

CO: cast on (Sample uses the ewrap cast on).

BO:bind off

BBO: basic bind off

Rep: repeat

St(s): stitch(es)

Rem:remain

MC=Main color (pink for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy; White for Colorwork Egg Cozy).

CC: Contrasting color (black for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy; Pink for Colorwork Egg Cozy).

PU: Pick up

Pattern notes: After the item is complete, go back to the cast on edge and tighten it by pulling off the extra slack of yarn. Use this video on how to tighten the e-wrap cast on.

INSTRUCTIONS

Easter Bunny Egg Cozy

Set the AIO knitting loom to 24 pegs (see picture). 7 pegs from each long rail and 5 pegs from each of the two sliders. If you have two Sock Loom 2s, you can set one up with 2 sock loom sliders. The Sock Loom 2 with the 2 sliders, would be easier to maneuver.

Loom Set Up 2

Using MC, cast on 24 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1: P to the end of round.

Round 2: K to the end of round.

Round 3: P to the end of round.

Round 4-18: K to the end of round.

***Decrease rounds:

*Loosen the bolts, slide each slider in ONE peg (thus decreasing by 4 stitches), tighten the bolts up again. Move the loops on the outside corner pegs (the loops that are not in the new square) to the inside pegs.

Next round: K to the end of round (treat the pegs with 2 loops as 1 loop).

Next round: k*

Repeat from * to *: 2 more times. 16 stitches rem.

Last rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to end of round.

How to:

Move loop from Peg 1 to Peg 2; knit peg 2.

Move loop from Peg 3 to Peg 4; knit peg 4. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

**Tug gently on the working yarn to remove any slack on the yarn.**

Move loop from Peg 5 to Peg 6; knit peg 6. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 5. Move loop from peg 3 to peg 4. Rep from ** to **.

Move loop from Peg 7 to peg 8; knit peg 8. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 7. Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Move loop from peg 4 to peg 5. Rep from ** to **.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 10; knit peg 10. Move loop from peg 8 to peg 9. Move loop from peg 7 to peg 8. Move loop from peg 6 to peg 7. Move loop from peg 5 to peg 6. Rep from ** to **.

Continue in this pattern all around moving the loop from the odd numbered pegs to the even number peg, knit the peg with the two loops. Before proceeding to the next set of pegs, move all the other loops closer, then tug gently on the working yarn to eliminate any extra slack.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.***

Ears
(make 2)

Set the knitting loom at 16 pegs (3 from each of the long rails, and 5 from each slider).

Usng MC, leaving a 10 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 10 stitches, only on the two sliders. Cast on 5 on one slider, then go directly to the opposite slider and continue casting on the other 5 stitches on this slider, join to work in the round.

Rounds 1-14: k to the end of round.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

With cast on tail, sew securely to the sides of the body.

Face

Using CC, embroider the little eyes, nose and mouth. Weave all ends in.

Colorwork Easter Egg Cozy

Set up knitting loom the same as for Easter Bunny Egg Cozy

Using MC, cast on 24 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1: P to the end of round.

Round 2: K to the end of round.

Round 3: P to the end of round.

Round 4 and 5: K to the end of round.

Round 6: Join CC, using MC, knit every odd peg. PU CC, knit every even peg.

Round 7: PU CC, k to the end of round.

Round 8: Rep Round 6.

Round 9 and 10: PU MC,  k to the end of round.

Round 11-13: PU CC, k to the end of round.

Round 14: Rep round 6. Cut CC, leaving a 6 inch tail.

Round 15-18: Continue with MC, k to the end of round.

Continuing with MC, rep from *** to *** from Easter Bunny Egg Cozy instructions (Decrease rounds to gather bind off). Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

3 Comments

  • Hello,I love,love,love Loom Knitting but I have 1 question…I have 2 sets of knifty knitter looms and some more that didnt come in packs..I bought on line the loom clip and it doesent fit on any of my long looms,..My smallest loom is 12 peg round and counting one side of long loom 18 pegs (all pegs 36)..Anyway i have been try to make baby booties&babysocks (all newborn) & im havin a tough time,the clip doesnt fit&the blue round 24 peg is to big and the 12 peg seems to small (i really dont know) whatever bootie or sock patter,i do on the 12 never comes out right and the blue like i said too big..Please Help..THANK YOU?

  • Hello,I love,love,love Loom Knitting but I have 1 question…I have 2 sets of knifty knitter looms and some more that didnt come in packs..I bought on line the loom clip and it doesent fit on any of my long looms,..My smallest loom is 12 peg round and counting one side of long loom 18 pegs (all pegs 36)..Anyway i have been try to make baby booties&babysocks (all newborn) & im havin a tough time,the clip doesnt fit&the blue round 24 peg is to big and the 12 peg seems to small (i really dont know) whatever bootie or sock patter,i do on the 12 never comes out right and the blue like i said too big..Please Help..THANK YOU?

  • You can probably knit one as a flat panel and then seam it down the length. It would not be as easy as working in the round, but it would work.

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Jan 12, 2015

Whimsical Loom Knits – Capricorn

Capricorn

According to Chinese Astrology, 2015 is the year of the goat.  Knit a whimsical little goat to keep you company throughout the year.

IMG_2911 (800x800)

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Patons Divine was used for the goat’s body.  Red Heart Super Saver was used for the horns, hooves, and nose.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing, needle and thread, 6 mm buttons for eyes.

Finished Size:  Approximately 3” in length.

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques:

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the goat’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, then remove the cord from the loom.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 16 pegs, in the round.  Work the head and body in Patons Divine.  (If Patons Divine is not available, use a fluffy, bulky yarn with the same wpi = approximately 7 wpi)  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 16 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

Legs (Make 4):

Using the Red Heart Super Saver, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 2 rows.  Switch to the Patons Divine.  Work the 3 stitch I-cord for 8 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining legs.

Ears/Tail (Make 3):

Using the Patons Divine, cast on 3 pegs.

Rows 1-6:  Sl 1, K2.

Row 7:  Sl 1, K2tog.

Row 8:  K2tog.

Fasten off and set aside.

Horns (Make 2):

Using the Red Heart Super Saver, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 4 rows.  Bind off and set aside.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Turn the knitted tube inside out so that the purl bumps are on the outside.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Reach inside the tube to find the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails to draw the neck area in.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  The yarn tails from the gathering thread should be inside the knitted tube and don’t need to be woven in.  They can be left as is.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.  (Note:  the Patons Divine is a bulky textured yarn and is a bit trickier to gather than other yarns.  It is possible, it just takes a bit more work and patience.)

Use the yarn needle to sew the tail to the back of the body, near the gathered bind off.  Attach two legs to each side of the body, near what will become the underside of the goat.

IMG_2914 (635x640)

Use the needle and thread to sew the button eyes onto the face, near the gathered cast on.  With the Red Heart Super Saver, embroider a little nose near the bottom of the face.  Sew the ears to the side of the goat’s head and attach the horns to the top of the head.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

 IMG_2912 (800x800)

Wishing each of you happiness, health, and prosperity in 2015!

10 Comments

  • So, so ,SO maaaaaahvelous! (pronounced like a goat would, lol) I laughed out loud with glee when I saw this little guy this morning…you’ve made my day with his cuteness! 😀 The year of the goat is also combined with the sheep…will you be bringing to life another adorable creature from your looms soon?? Love it!

  • that is SO cute, and the perfect colored yarn for a goat

  • Thank you, Bethany! I actually DO have an idea for a cute little sheepie. Maybe it will pop up in one of the whimsies this year 🙂

  • Thank you, Pat! I thought the color was perfect as well. And the texture of the yarn adds a fun element to the project too.

  • Love him, love him now I want to hug him … tooooo cute 🙂

  • OMG..it is soooooo stinking cute and then when I saw who designed it I said I should have known it was Jenny. ADORABLE and at a latter date I may have to try this as it could almost be me as I am a capricorn. may have to figure out how to make the bottom half a fishtail :-0 Thank you very much

  • Awwwww, so cute!!!! So whimsical. Just begging to be worked up and given to a special little one. On my list!!!

    As always with all your wonderful projects, Great job! <3

  • Thank you, Linda! I’m so glad you like it. Have a great day!

  • Thank you LoomaHat/Denise! My little gal thinks he’s pretty snuggly too. I hope you have a wonderful day!

  • Thank you, Karen! You are too sweet. If you do make one, I’d love to see it. Have a great day!

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Nov 14, 2014

Snowman Hat Pattern

Snowman hat final

We are bringing you a new feature to our blog! Every second Friday of the month, we will feature a design by one of our customers. We will start off this tradition with a new pattern by Kathy McGuire. Kathy created a lovely Snowman Hat that every child will love. We hope you enjoy it as much as we do. To contact Kathy, please email her at this link

 

Knitting loom: KB All-in-One loom set up with two sliders.

Yarn:  Approximately 50 yards each of worsted weight in red, green and white.  Approximately one yard each of black and orange.

Notions: knitting tool, row counter, crochet hook, tapestry needle and  (optional) pompom maker

Gauge: 4 stitches and  6 rows per inch in stitch pattern.

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on

EW: E wrap

P: purl stitch

St(s): stitches

Rnd(s): round

Rep: repeat

BO: Bind off

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round.

In this pattern, after round 46, you will begin decreasing stitches to form the taper of the hat.  With each decrease, you will move the stitches on the four corners in one peg.  After moving the stitches, you will then move both sliders in one peg, in line with the pegs that have two stitches.

This pattern can will fit a toddler/young child. It can be made larger by increasing the number of pegs per side. However, if more pegs are used, be sure to use an odd number on each side and begin casting on using the middle peg. For example, the pattern as written calls for using 23 pegs per side with cast-on beginning at peg 12. If you increase to say, 25 pegs, then you would cast on starting at peg 13. Also, for every two pegs you increase, you will have one more taper to do at the top.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Set knitting loom to work 46 pegs in the round, with sliders at both ends.  Place a stitch marker on peg 12 – you will begin the CO on this peg.  This is important for the tapering to work out.

Beginning at peg 12, EW CO all 46 pegs

Rnd 1-4 : *EW using red yarn

Rnd 5-8:  Without cutting red yarn, EW using green yarn*

Rnds 9-16: Rep from * to*

Rnd 17-20: EW using red yarn.  Cut red yarn leaving about a 6″ tail

Forming the brim: bring the CO loops up through the center of loom. Lining up the loops, place one loop on each peg.  You will now have two loops on each peg.  Lift bottom loop on each peg over the top loop.

Rnd 21-34:  EW using white yarn.  Cut white yarn leaving about a 6″ tail

For the remaining Rounds, you will be knitting alternate rows of red and green.   Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using.  Do not cut.

Rnd 35-42: Using red yarn, make four sets of garter stitch (alternating rows of EW and P).

Rnd 43-46:  EW using green yarn.  Do not cut yarn.

Rnd 47:  *Move the St(s) from each corner peg in one peg.  (For example, in this round you will move peg 1 to peg 2; peg 23 to peg 22; peg 29 to peg 30 and peg 41 to peg 40).   Move the sliders in one peg to line up with pegs that have two St(s).  EW using red yarn, turning pegs with two loops as one.

Rnd 48-50: EW using red yarn.

Rnd 51:  Move the St(s) from each corner peg in one peg and line up sliders.  EW using green yarn,  turning  pegs with two loops as one.

Rnd 52-54: EW using green yarn.*

Rnd 55-86: Rep from * to *.

Rnd 87-90: Rep Rnd(s) 47-50

Cut both yarns leaving a 12″ tail

Using both yarns held together as one, BO using drawstring bind off.  Remove hat from loom  and drop the yarn tails inside the opening at top of hat.  Turn hat inside out and close top by pulling on the yarn tails.  Cut yarn tails to about 5″.  Weave in all ends. Turn hat right side out.

Make a pom pom and attach to top of hat.

(Optional) Using a length of white yarn, make three (or more) “snowflakes” on front of snowmans “hat” (the garter ridges).

Eyes:  Make a chain of 25 stitches using black yarn and crochet hook, leaving 6″ tail at beginning and end of chain.  Coil up the chain and stitch together using the yarn tails then stitch eyes onto hat.

Nose:  Using either bulky weight or two strands held together as one of orange worsted weight, form a short i-cord using three pegs of the loom.  Bind off.  Slightly stretch the i-cord so that the bind off edge is wider than the other end and attach to hat.

 

 

5 Comments

  • This is sooo cute! I may even make this as a toliet tissue holder. Will look adorable in our bathroom for Christmas. Thank You.

  • Oh soo cute! Any child would love this hat. Thanks for sharing your pattern.

  • I want to make this for myself!! I have Bern wanting to make myself a snowman hat and scarf set but haven’t taken the time to do so. Now I see this one and I love it. How do I make it to fit an adult???

  • Kathy, has added a little blurb about making the hat bigger, it is in the pattern notes.

  • Thanks! I am also happy to help if you have any other questions or you need clarification on any part of the pattern.

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Nov 7, 2014

Baby Ballet Slippers

LittleShoes600

 

 

Holidays are around the corner, knit little baby ballet slippers for the precious little ones. The pattern is simple and small that you can knit a pair in one afternoon.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One loom, 20 pegs used. Pattern can be done on All-n-One loom, Adjustable Hat Loom, 32 Peg Loom.

Yarn: 40-50 yards of worsted weight wool. Sample was knit with Knit Picks Swish Worsted, shown in Cornmeal.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size I.

Size: 3-6 months

Gauge: 9sts x 10 rows= 2 inches in garter stitch

Abbreviations

K=knit

P=purl

CO=cast on

Cont=continue

BO=Bind off

St(s)=stitches

M1=make 1. A type of increase. Move the loops on the pegs to create an empty peg where you need the increase. Reach for the ladder going from one peg to the other, twist it and place this loop on the emptied peg.

k2tog=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the first peg over to the second peg. Treat both loops as one and knit them together.

SSK=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the last peg over to the peg before last. Treat both loops as one and knit them together.

Pattern notes

The pattern is worked as a flat panel then assembled into a little shoe shape.

When the pattern calls to cast on stitches at the beginning of the row, use the ewrap method to cast on the additional stitches.

Decreasing rows: simply move the loop from the outer peg to the peg next to it, example: from peg 1 to peg 2, from very last peg to the peg before last. Work both loops as one when working the stitch.

Entire pattern is worked in garter stitch (knit one row, purl one row).

The little bow string was crochet. You can substitute with a piece of ribbon.

When seaming, use the mattress stitch to seam the little slipper.

INSTRUCTIONSLittleShoes6002
(Make 2)

Cast on 12 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (14 sts).

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: p to the end.

Row 3: As row 1 (16 sts).

Row 5: As row 1 (18 sts).

Row 7: As row 1 (20 sts).

Row 9: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts, ssk (18 sts).

Row 11: as Row 9. (16 sts).

Row 13: as Row 9 (14 sts).

Row 15: as Row 9 (12 sts).

Row 16: Using the ewrap, cast on 5 stitches, p to the end of row. (17 sts).

Row 17: k1, m1, k to the end (18 sts).

Row 18: p to the end.

Row 19: k1, m1, k to the end (19 sts).

Row 20: p to the end.

Row 21: k1, m1, k to the end (20 sts).

Row 22: p to the end.

Row 23: k1, m1, k to the end (21 sts).

Row 24: Basic bind off 12 sts, p to the end of row.LittleShoes6003

Rows 25-37: cont in garter stitch.

Row 38: Cast on 12sts, p21.

Row 39: k2tog, k to the end of row (32 sts).

Row 40: p to the end of row.

Row 41: k2tog, k to the end of row (31 sts).

Row 41: p to the end of row.

Row 42: k2tog, k to the end of row (30 sts).

Row 43: p to the end of row.

Row 44: k2tog, k to the end of row (29 sts).

Basic bind off, leaving a 20 inch long tail for seaming.

Decorative Crochet Ribbon

Using crochet hook and contrasting color yarn, chain 65. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY

Using the mattress stitch, seam the side of the upper to the sole area. Mattress stitch the heel area last. Weave ends in.

Steam block gently.

Pass crocheted chain through the edge stitches on each slipper, arrange the ends of the chain so that they are to the side of each slipper. Make a little bow. Secure the little bow in place with matching thread and needle.

 

 

 

4 Comments

  • These are so absolutely precious! 😀

  • Super sweet baby slippers!

  • Hi thank you very much for making this tutorial. I was wondering if you could make this or others on the EFG sock loom? I can’t find many patterns for that loom and it makes me very sad and disappointed.

  • The EFG loom will work, however, the slipper will be small, probably the size for a newborn.

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Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – Mini Monsters!

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

IMG_2754 (585x800)

 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

IMG_2759 (600x800)

Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

IMG_2757

Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

4 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! 😀

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

  • give me an idea for a different helloween , they will be suprised !

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Oct 1, 2014

Fit for a Princess

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As soon as we saw this cute design, we knew that many loom knitters would be interested in trying it out. Carrie Johnson has been kind enough to allow us to share her pattern in blog. We hope you enjoy it. A little bit about Carrie:  Carrie is a single mom of four children, ranging in ages of 5-20 yrs old! She lives on a small goat farm out in California. She has been loom knitting for about 3 years and just began to learn to read patterns. She recently started writing down all of her designs, and she has four published patterns so far and more to come! Contact Carrie.

Knitting loom: KB adjustable hat loom
Yarn: approx 30-40 yds of worsted weight yarn.
Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, stitch markers,
Other: Stick on jewels to decorate or other decor of choice.

Abbreviations

K: Knit (e-wrap)
P=Purl

Pattern note:  I used two strands of yarn, since the yarn I used was thin. If using a #3 weight yarn, you might want
to double your strands. A #4 yarn you might use one strand, two strands can be use for a thicker crown. One
strand of #5 can be used as well, even though I haven’t made the crown in bulky yet, it should still work!

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up: Set your loom in the extra small configuration- using 2 connectors and 2 round parts. Place pegs in every
hole.

Using your stitch markers divide pegs into 8 sections with 7 pegs in each section.
Ex: pegs 1-7 is one section, pegs 8-14 is another section and so on…

Cast on 56 stitches, join to work in the round.
Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7: k to the end.
Rnds: 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end.

Points for the Crown
~Each section is worked separately, in rows.

Starting with the first section pegs 1-7:

*Row 1: k to end of section

Row 2: p to end of section*

Decrease as follows: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2 and loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Repeat from * to *.  (Pegs that have two loops on them, treat both loops as one loop.)

Next: Decrease as follows: move loop from peg 2 to peg 3 and loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Repeat from * to *.  (Pegs that have two loops on them, treat both loops as one loop.)

Next: Decrease as follows: move loop from peg 3 to peg 4 and loop from peg 5 to peg 4.

Next: Knit peg 4. Purl peg 4.

Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail:  knit peg and pull yarn tail through.
One point done.

To start next point, make a slip knot and add yarn to peg 8 (you’ll now be working on pegs 8-14) and repeat
Points for the Crown section. Repeat with each section. 8 points completed at the end of project.
Weave in yarn ends.
Decorate
Enjoy!

 (c)2014, Carrie Johnson. All rights reserved. Published on www.191.5a2.myftpupload.com with permission. 

4 Comments

  • Carrie,
    Very cute! I don’t have a young lady to work one for, but if I did, she would be the proud owner of your very clever crown. Can’t wait to see more of your work very ice indeed!!

    Sue K.

  • Cute as can be, Carrie! My little girlie said I need to get her one so she can wear it on her head and pretend to be Princess Peach 🙂

  • Thank you so much for sharing this adorable crown. I will be making a one for my granddaughter, plus several for friends granddaughters. They are all Princesses. 🙂

  • Thanks for letting me know. We have corrected it. Row 13 should say Row 12, row 14, row 13, etc.

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Jun 21, 2014

‘Tilly’ Knit Doll

tilly2cropEveryone loves knit dolls and this little girl will win your heart.  Tilly measures a full 16”+ tall and is made on the little Tadpole Knitting Board.  Have  fun making new clothes for her.  You can make the entire family with just a change of facial expressions, hair style, and clothing.

Loom:  Tadpole Knitting Board with 16+ pins working in double knit.

Yarn:  Body of doll is worked with Premier Deborah Norville’s  Serenity Chunky in Oatmeal Heather.  (1.5) skeins. This is a chunky yarn and will produce a tight knit.  Clothing and embroidery colors and yarns will be mentioned in each section. Hair will use 1 skein of yarn of choice.

Stitches:  Stockinette

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook size 4, large sewing needle, measure tape, and small bag of poly-fil (4 oz) for body of doll.

Finished Size:  Doll is 16.5” tall.  She can wear purchased clothing for an 18”and NB.

Gauge of doll body:  3 sts and 4 rows=1 inch of knit

Instructions:  You will knit (2) body sections, (2) arm sections, (2) foot sections.

Body of Doll:  Cast on (8) stitches in basic stockinette stitch in center of loom so that there are (4) empty pins on each end of loom.  Lay strong anchor yarn of same color.  You are starting at top of head.

Work (1) row in stockinette.

Increase row: Lift loop #1 to outside of loom onto empty pin.  Do this to both boards and at both ends.  Use previous stitch from pin #3 and place onto pin # 2.  You now have all pins covered once more. Weave over all pins in stockinette.  Hook over.

You now have (10) stitphoto 113ches on each board.

Work (1) row in stockinette.

Repeat these 2 rows, increase row and the regular row, until you have all (16) pins covered, ending with a regular row.

Work (3) additional regular rows in stockinette.

Decrease row:  Lift loop from 2nd peg onto pin #3 creating open pin.  Move 1st loop onto pin #2.  You now have open pin at front of loom.  Do this to both ends and both boards.  Your 2nd pins will have (2) loops.  Weave all stitches and hook over, being  sure to pick up both lower loops from pins #2.

Work (1) regular row in photo 114stockinette stitch.

Repeat these (2) rows until you have (10) stitches remaining on the loom.  End with a regular row.  You are at the neck of the doll.

Repeat the process of the (2) rows, increase row and regular row, until you once again have all (16) pins covered.  Continue working in stockinette stitch for additional (12) rows.

Legs of Doll:

The legs are knit by working the first (8) stitches with one yarn, and the second (8) stitches with a different skein of yarn.

Tie on a 2nd skein of yarn (may be a partial skein) at center of knitting by tying yarn onto previous row.  Work by weaving the first set of pins, lay yarn down.  Pick up 2nd yarn and weave second set of pins.  Hook over all pins of both sections.  Work (8) complete rows on both sections.

Do one decrease row on each section at both ends.  Work row.  (this is knee area)photo 3

Work one regular row.

Next row, increase on each outside edge only.  Work row.

Work (11) additional rows on these stitches.

Decrease (1) stitch each end, both boards.  Work row.

Work (1) regular row.  Bind Off of loom on both sections.

Leave anchor yarn in head piece as it will be used when finishing.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Repeat Body of Doll for back piece.  They are the same.

Arms of Doll:  

Cast On (8) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn of any yarn.  It will stay in the arm, but will not be seen.

Work (10) rows in stockinette.

Decrease (1) stitch each end, both boards.

Work (10) rows in stockinette.

Increase (1) stitch at beginning of next row.  At opposite end of row, decrease (1) stitch.

Bind Off, ending at increase edge.  Allow the knot, at end of bind off, to pull the increase stitch up and out forming a thumb.

Repeat for 2nd arm of doll.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Feet:    Knit (2)

Cast On (14) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn of matching yarn.

Work in stockinette stitch for (5) rows.

Bind Off.  Do not remove the anchor yarn.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Face of Doll:  Now, here’s where you can be creative.  She/he can be smiling, sad, stoic, or funny.  Decide what color eyes to have, and red or pink mouth, and how big the nose should be?  Once you have an idea of how your doll will look, choose the location on one face piece and mark each with a piece of yarn, or needle or knitting needle.  You will need to have about 5-6 yds of each color.  For our doll, we used 2 shades of blue for the eyes outlined in black with black eyelashes.  For the mouth, a simple smile in bright red.  The nose is the main yarn.  Our face was all done with easy, simple line stitches.  The yarn was Loops and Threads craft cord, but embroidery thread will work fine.

Once the face is complete, set the parts aside.  You are ready to start sewing the parts together.

Sewing and Finishing:  When you stitch pieces together, use the invisible stitch to draw the seams together.  Work with the large darning needle and matching yarn.  See photos of sewing below.

Arms:  Fold the arms over lengthwise.  The thumbs should both face up.  Start sewing at anchor yarn edge and work towards the hand.  When you get to wrist point, knot the yarn, wrap the yarn around the wrist and knot again.  Pull needle into knit and cut the yarn tail.   The arm should naturally bend slightly at elbow.  You can just tie the ends of anchor yarn together loosely and tuck into arm.   Only the top of the arm will be stuffed, but this will be done later.  Lay the arms aside and sew the body of doll.

Lay the (2) body pieces together, matching all joints/shapes.  Secure each leg at opening and top of legs at inseam with large stitch (this will be removed, but holds the pieces in place).  Now sew the inseam of both legs leaving the bottom of leg open for feet to be attached.  Start at inside seam of leg1 at foot and continue around to end at inside seam of other leg2 at foot.  Knot to secure.

You will now sephoto 442w each side seam of doll securing the front to back.  Work from outside at foot up to where the arms will be placed.  You want to leave aprox 2” opening  for each arm.  Leave sewing yarn attached.  Use a small piece of yarn to tack front to back at neck.

Place one arm into opening.  Be sure to note how the hand is turned.  Continue sewing, working around one side of body and one side of arm.  When sewing, pick up the inner cross stitch in the body and the cast on stitches of the arm or the next row in.  The anchor yarn will not show, but allows the opening to stay flexible.  Once you have sewn all around the arm, continue sewing again until you arrive at the neck.  Remove the tack stitch and sew the neck.

 

 

photo 444Stop here and stuff enough poly-fil into body to create the thickness desired.  From the bottom of each leg, push small amount of poly-fil into each leg until you have the desired thickness.  If you want a small amount of poly-fil in the upper arms, stuff this as you work on the body area.

Once you have the shape desired for the legs and body, you are ready to sew the 2 sides of head together.

Continue sewing both sides of doll from neck to top of head until you get to the cast on stitches.  Knot yarn but keep attached.  Use this opening to stuff the head.  If you want more definition between the body and head, tie a piece of matching yarn snugly around neck before stuffing  head.  Stuff the head completely and firmly, shaping the face, as you work.  Once it is firm, you are ready to close the top of head.  Use both anchor yarns from front and back pieces.  Pull them firmly and knot at both sides.  Trim and tuck the yarn tails into head.  Use one of the sewing yarns that are still attached to each side of head, to complete the opening by sewing the stitches together.  Tie sewing yarns together for a secure knot, trim, and tuck ends into head with crochet hook.  Use crochet hook (back end) to rearrange any stuffing that seems to need adjustment.

 

photo 21Feet:  Make sure the legs are as thick as desired before adding the feet.  Each foot should be sewn at bottom of foot.  You will be sewing a bind off edge, so just weave the sewing yarn thru the edge of the stitches alternating sides and pull snug.   The top of the foot has the anchor yarn which will help to make it the correct size to match opening of leg.  The foot should be longer than the leg so that it extends out to front of doll and this creates the foot.  No stuffing is needed unless you like fat feet.

Stitch around the edge of leg opening to make it slightly smaller than the fullness of the leg.  Use this sewing yarn (16”) to attach the leg opening to top edge of foot.  Tie ends of anchor yarn together and tuck in any yarn tails into foot before sewing to leg.  Take a bite from leg and pick up stitch from top of foot going around the entire leg.  Then work the 2 sides of the top of foot to close it in.  Secure with knot and pull all yarn tails into foot.

Hair:  This is the fun part and something that determines the look of your doll, so think about the hair-do that you like before starting.  Choose a yarn for this.  It can be fuzzy, silkie, chunky, or very fine.  Do you want it so that a young girl can change the look, or locked in curls, or straight for making into pony tails and braids?  Our doll has a basic style, and lots of it, so that you can see hphoto 41ow to add it to her head.

We are using Harmony Iron Stone, 100% wool, one skein of 109 yds.  It is color 13059 Burnt Red.

Cut 16” pieces using entire skein of yarn.  You can use less to give a different look.  The fat head look of Tilly involves the entire scalp with hair strands attached.  They are placed onto the stitches of the scalp just like one would attach fringe to the end of a scarf.  Slip crochet hook thru the stitch.  Fold the yarn strand in half and place the fold onto hook.  Pull the loop thru the stitch and then the strands thru the loop, and pull securely.  Do the hair line first.  Start with hairline at forehead, down to where ears would be.  Move back a row, now do the hairline around neck to other side of head.  This should give you one line of strands across face, and another curved line around back of head.   Now fill in for the thickness you desire and complete the hair attachment.

 

Tuck in any yarn tail remaining.  Tilly now has body, arms, legs, feet, face, and hair.  She is ready for some fun clothing.  We will create a basic little sundress.  Add some booties and a sweater plus a little jewelry and she will be ready to run out and play.

Sundress:  (Knit in one piece)

Yarn used is Vanna’s Glamour.  ½ skein was used. Any DK or worsted weight yarn will work. Stitches used are Stockinette and Open Rib.  Knit in one piece in double knit on the Tadpole loom.

Cast on all 16 stitches in Stockinette.  Lay anchor yarn of same yarn aprox 20” long.

Work in stockinette for (8) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (5) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (4) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Dec (1) stitch each end.  Bind Off center (6) stitches.  You now have (8) stitches one the loom;  (4) at each end.  Tie on new yarn at 2nd set of (4) stitches.

Work on both sections in stockinette until the dress straps measure 3.5”.

Work with original yarn across all (14) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn across the center (6) new stitches.

Next row, inc (1) stitch at each end of loom so that you now have the full (16) stitches on the loom, and you are working the full board with one working yarn.  Cut and knot the 2nd working yarn.

Repeat the dress front so that the back of the dress is the same:  (3) rows of open braid, (4) rows of stockinette, (3) rows of open braid, (5) rows of stockinette, (3) rows of open braid, and (8) rows of stockinete.

Now, you need to add the anchor yarn to stitches on loom so that the hem of the dress is same as the front.  Work with darning needle and matching yarn aprox 16” long.  Use the needle to pick up the loops from the loom, one loop at a time, alternating from back board to front.  Allow the loops to be transferred from the loom to the anchor yarn.

Once all the loops are on the anchor yarn, you are ready to sew the dress.  This can be done on or off the doll.  We found it easier to sew the dress after the neckline was placed over her head.  Pin in place.  Tie the anchor yarns together to connect the dress front to the dress back.  Make this very loose so that the hemline flares out.  Cut and trim, and tuck ends into dress.  Sew up the side seams to arm opening.  Lace ribbon or yarn thru the lower open braid stitches for a hipline accent.  Tie and allow the ends to form tassels.  We used Patons Metallic Green for the accent.  Approx 3 yds required for 4 strand belt.

Sock booties for Tilly were purchased in NB baby store.  Pattern for Tilly’s sweater coat will be coming in future Newsletter offerings.  Beads, bows and bracelets are made with misc craft items.  Be creative, and have fun knitting your knit doll.

2 Comments

  • Beautiful knitter doll. Going to put it on my to-do list.

  • Thank you for the tadpole pattern! I hope we see more patterns for this nice little board!

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Apr 18, 2014

Bunnies, Bunnies, Bunnies!

We have two special designs today for you, each of them will delight a child in your lives. First, we have the Easter Egg Bunny–a delightful miniature bunny that fits inside a plastic egg.

 

Easter Egg Bunny 1

Fill those Easter eggs with a special treat and watch your little one’s eyes light up in a pleasant surprise. The Easter Egg Bunny is small enough to fit snuggly in one the large size plastic Easter Eggs, or you can also squish him inside one of the medium size eggs.

Pattern Specifications

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Approx 40 yds of worsted weight yarn. Sample was worked with Knit Picks Swish yarn in White, Carnation, and Cobblestone Heather

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.Easter Egg Bunny 2

Other: Small piece of ribbon for necktie. Small amounts of polly fill for stuffing or you can use bits of left over white yarn.

Gauge: 10 sts x 17 rows=2” (however, gauge is not important for this project).

Size: 3 inches tall (not counting the ears), 4.5 inches tall with ears.

Abbreviations

K=knit

P=purl

St(s)=stitches

Rnd=Round

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the right to the peg to the left, when you knit the peg with the two loops, work both loops together.

INSTRUCTIONS

Head

Leave a 10 inch yarn tail, cast on 16 sts, join to work in the round.

Rnd 1-Rnd 6: k to the end of rnd. From this point on, work in rows.

Row 1: k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog.

Rnd 2: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave 10 inch yarn tail. Using yarn tail, sew the small opening from left from the last two rows.

Before closing the cast on edge with the yarn tail, lightly stuff the head, shaping it as you insert the stuffing.

Face Details

Using black or gray yarn, do two embroidery French Knots for the eyes.

Using pink yarn, simply work two running stitches at the front of the head, covering the gather bind off.

Body

Leave a 10 inch yarn tail, cast on 16 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1-14: k to the end of rnd.

Bind off with gather bind off.

Before closing the cast on edge with the yarn tail, lightly stuff the head, shaping it as you insert the stuffing.

Legs
(make 2)

Cast on 7 sts, prepare to work  a flat panel.

Row 1-14: k to the end of row.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave a 10 inch yarn tail. Use yarn tail to seam long the side of the panel, thus forming a small leg.

ArmsEaster Egg Bunny 3
(make 2)

Cast on 6 sts

Row 1-10: k to the end of row.

Bind off with gather bind off. Leave a 10 inch yarn tail. Use yarn tail to seam long the side of the panel, thus forming a small leg.

Ears
(make 2)
Cast on 6 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 : k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Row 9: k1, ktog, k2tog, k1.

Row 10: p to the end of row.

Row 11: k2tog, k2tog.

Row 12: k2tog.

Bind off.

Ears sewing

Assembly

Fold ears in half. Using the yarn tail from the cast on edge, seam along the curved side of the ear, just a couple of stitches.

 

Sew the ears to the top of the head. Best placement is almost next to each other, at the top of the head.

Next, sew the head to the body, placing the head. Sew the small arms to the side, about 3 rows down from the neck.

Lastly, sew the legs to the bottom section of the body place them towards the back and to the side so the bunny is able to sit.

Optional: add a small ribbon bow to the neck.

Notice: If gifting to a baby or toddler, make sure that all the pieces are securely sewn.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Renita Bunny

Sweet Cuddle Bunny
by Renita Harvey

Knit a little cuddly stuffie for those little love ones!

 

Pattern Specifications

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 or All-n-One loom

Yarn: Approx 60 yds of bulky 5 weight yarn (large 10” bunny) or 65 yds of sport 3 weight yarn (2 strands held together  (7” bunny)) for the small 7” bunny. Contrast color yarn for eyes and nose.  Sample was knit with Jiffy, 10” sample, and Baby Bee Sweet Delight for the 7” sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle

Other: Stuffing and ribbon for neckline bows.

Size: 10″ inches (purple sample) and 7″ (yellow sample).

Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows= 4”

Abbreviations

CO =Cast on

BO = bind off

K=knit stitch

S= slip or skip

M1 =Make 1. Reach for ladder from the previous row, twist the ladder and place it on the empty peg.

K2tog =knit two stitches together (see above pattern on how to do it).

SSK=slip slip knit

INSTRUCTIONSRenita Bunny 2

Bunny
(Make 2)

Chain CO 10 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: s1, k9

Row 2:s1, k7, m1, k3

Row 3: s1, k8, m1, k3

Row 4: s1, k9, m1, k3

Row 5: s1, k10, m1, k3

Row 6:  s1, k11, m1, k3

Row 7: s1, k12, m1, k3

Row 8: s1, k13, m1, k3

Row 9: s1, k14, m1, k3

Rows 10: 18 – s1, k17

Row 19: s1, k14, k2tog, k1

Row 20: s1, k13, ssk, k1

Row 21: s1, k12, k2tog, k1

Row 22: s1, k11, ssk, k1

Row 23:  s1, k10, k2tog, k1

Row 24: s1, k9, ssk, k1

Row 25: s1, k8, k2tog, k1

Row 26: s1, k7, ssk, k1

Row 27 – 28: s1, k9

Row 29: s1, k7, m1, k3

Row 30: s1, k8, m1, k3

Row 31: s1, k9, m1, k3

Row 32: s1, k10, m1, k3

Row 33: s1, k11, m1, k3

Rows 34 – 38: s1, k14

Row 39: s1, k11, k2tog, k1

Row 40: s1, k10, ssk, k1

Row 41: s1, k9, k2tog, k1

Row 42: s1, k8, ssk, k1

Row 43: s1, k7, k2tog, k1

Row 44: s1, k6, ssk, k1

Row 45: s1, k3, BO 1, k4

Ears are worked separate over 4 stitches each.

Ear 1

Rows 1 – 12: s1, k3

Row 13: s1, ssk, k1

Row 14: s1, k2tog

Row 15: k2tog

Row 16: k1

BO by pulling working yarn though final stitch

Ear 2

Attach yarn and repeat Ear 1.

Side Strip

Chain CO 5 stitches

Rows 1 – 170: s1, k4

BO

Assembly

With the front piece facing down and starting at the inside between the ears, place 5 to 7 slipped edge stitches back on the pegs.


Renita 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the side strip facing up, place the same number of slipped edge stitches on the same pegs. 
Renita 2

With a new strand of yarn, work the basic BO to seam the edges together and remove them from the loom.  Place new edge stitches on the loom as you work the BO until all the edge has been seamed together ending at the inside of the ears.

Repeat with the back piece and other edge of the side strip.

Stuff and seam the opening between the ears.

With contrast yarn, sew eyes and nose on with tapestry needle.

Weave all ends in.

 

 

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Apr 11, 2014

Carrots Hat and Rattle Set

carrots 2

Easter is around the corner and the bunny theme is in the air. Knit a beautiful set of hat and rattle for a wee little one in your life.

Knitting Loom: All-n-One knitting loom

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit using Cascade Yarns Pacific in White, Orange, and Green.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry

Other: Ribbon

Gauge: 10 sts x 17 rows= 2”

Size: Sample fits 3-6 months.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

Rnd=round

Rem=remain

INSTRUCTIONScarrots 3

HAT

Using MC, cast on 68 sts, join to work in the round.

Round 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of round.

Next: Work 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

Next round: *k2tog; rep from * to end of round.

Next round: k

Next round: *k2tog; rep from * to end of round.

Bind off with gather removal method.

EARS

Outer Layer (make 2)

Using MC, cast on 12 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Rows 1-22: k to end of row.

Row 23: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (10 sts rem).

Rows 24- 26: k to the end of row.

Row 27: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (8 sts rem).

Row 28: k to end of the row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

 

Inner Layer (make 2)Carrots

Using CC, cast on 10 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Rows 1-20: k to end of row.

Row 21: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (8 sts rem).

Rows 22- 24: k to the end of row.

Row 25: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (8 sts rem).

Row 26: k to end of the row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Ear Assembly

Steam block before assembly. Using the mattress stitch, place wrong sides together of the Inner layer and Outer layer, seam along the edge.

Sew the Ears to the top of the hat.

Add a little bow to each ear using ribbon.

CARROT FOR HAT

Using SCC, cast on 7 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: k to end of row.

Row 4: k2, k3tog, k2. (5 sts rem)

Row 5-7: k to end of row.

Row 8: k1, k3tog, k1 (3 sts rem)

Row 9: k

Bind off with gather bind off method. Leave a long tail. Use this long tail to mattress stitch along the side of the carrot, to the cast on edge. Sew the cast on edge close.  Secure carrot to the front area of the hat, near the brim of the hat (use sample as guide).

Thread tapestry needle with G, whip stitch a small stitch on to the top of the carrot and cut the ends closely to the carrot, to leave small “leaf” like strands.

CARROT RATTLE

Using SCC, cast on 18 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Rows 1-4: k to the end of row.

Row 5: k1, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Row 6-8: k to the end of row.

Rep from Row 5-8: until 10 sts rem.

Next: Work 9 rows even.

Next: Rep Row 5.

Next: Work 3 rows even.

Bind off with gather removal method. Leave a long tail. Use the long tail to mattress stitch seam up the side of the carrot, all the way to the cast on edge. Before closing the cast on edge with gather removal method; stuff the inside with bits of left over yarn and two jingle bells. Optional: you may want to place the stuffing inside a panty hose to prevent it from poking through the fabric of the carrot.

Carrot leaves: cast on 2 sts, work a 4 inch icord. Bind off. Fold the icord in half and sew securely to the top of the carrot.

 

 

 

 

 

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Feb 27, 2014

Frilly Edge Baby Socks

Frilly Edge Socks 1

Knit baby a special pair of socks that are soft and just the perfect softness for their itty bitty feet.

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Karabella Aurora 4 Sport  weight

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: Sample will fit 3-6 mos.

Gauge: 14 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stockinette stitch.

Abbreviations:Frilly Edge Socks 2

K=knit stitch

YO=Yarn over (ewrap the empty peg. On the following round when you need to work the the peg with the Yarn over, unravel the ewrap and leave this strand of yarn to the front of the peg, knit or purl the strand of yarn as if it was a flat stitch).

W&T=Lift the loop that is on the peg, take working yarn behind the peg, wrap it to the front of the peg, place loop back on the peg.

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Worked over two pegs. Lift loop from peg 2 and move it to peg 1. Leave peg 2 empty. Treat the two loops on peg 1 as one loop. Knit peg 1.

Instructions

Cast on 32 sts, join to work in the round

Rnd 1-6: k to the end of the round.

Rnd  7: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of round.

Rnd 8-14: k to the end of round.

Rnd 15: Pick up cast on edge and place those stitches back on the loom, each peg should have 2 loops on it. Treat both loops as one loop. K to the end of the round.

Next 10 rounds: k to the end of round.

Heel-worked in short rows

Row 1: Knit from peg 1 to peg 15. Wrap and Turn (W&T) on peg 16.

Row 2: Knit from peg 15 to peg 2. W&T on peg 1.

Row 3: Knit from peg 2 to peg 14. W&T on peg 15.

Row 4: Knit from peg 14 to peg 3. W&T on peg 2.

Row 5: Knit from peg 3 to peg 13. W&T on peg 14.

Row 6: Knit from peg 13 to peg 4. W&T on peg 3.

Row 7: Knit from peg 4 to peg 12. W&T on peg 13.

Row 8: Knit from peg 12 to peg 5. W&T on peg 4.

Row 9: Knit from peg 5 to peg 11. W&T on peg 12.

Row 10: Knit from peg 11 to 6. W&T on peg 5.

Row 11: Knit from peg 6 to peg 10. W&T peg 11.

Row 12: Knit from peg 10 to peg 5. W&T peg 4 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 13: Knit from peg 5 to 11. W&T peg 12 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 14: Knit from peg 11 to 4. W&T peg 3 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).  

Row 15: Knit from peg 4 to 12. W&T peg 13 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 16: Knit from peg 12 to 3. W&T peg 2 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 17: Knit from peg 3 to 13. W&T peg 14 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 18: Knit from peg 13 to 3. W&T peg 2(there will now be a double wrap on this peg).  

Row 19: Knit from peg 3 to 14. W&T peg 15 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg)..

Row 20: Knit from peg 14 to 2. W&T peg 2 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 21: Knit from peg 2 to 15. W&T peg 16 (there will now be a double wrap on this peg).

Row 22: Knit from peg 15 to 1. W&T peg 32 .

End of Heel—from this point on, begin working in the round (peg 32 and peg 16 will have extra loops on them, treat all the loops on these two pegs as one loop).

Next 30 rounds: k to the end of the round.

Bind off with gather removal method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

1 Comment

  • Thank you so much!

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Feb 21, 2014

Owl Baby Hat

Owl loom knittedThe inspiration for this little hat came from the others I have created with a crochet hook. Last year, I made about 20 of these cute little hats and gave them all away. Since then, I have been wanting to create one on the looms, finally, I had a chance to do it. This is my version on it, but I am sure you can make something similar going about it a different way. I hope you enjoy making it.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn, approx 120 yds in 4 different colors, total.. Lion Brand Cotton-Ease was used in sample in colors Cactus (about 40 yds), Taupe (about 50 yds), Seaspray (about 5 yds), Snow (about 10 yds) and Terracota (about 5 yds).

Notions: knitting tool, crochet hook size G.

Other: 2 medium black buttons to use for the eyes (about 1/2″). Owl hat loom knitted 2

Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows= 4 inches

Size: Size shown fits 3-6 months.

Abbreviations
k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

sts=stitches

CO=Cast on (I used the ewrap cast on and then I tightened it up with this youtube tip)

BO=Bind off

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

k2tog=knit two stitches together (lift stitch from peg 1, move it to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both stitches on the peg as one).

p2tog=purl two stitches together (lift stitch from peg 1, move it to peg 2, purl peg 2 treating both stitches on the peg as one).

Sl=slip a stitch (skip a stitch with peg behind the peg).

Rem=remain

MC: main color (Taupe)

CC: contrasting color (Cactus)

SCC: secondary contrasting color

O: Terracota

B: Seaspray

W: Snow

INSTRUCTIONS

Hat

HAT

With CC, cast 64 sts, join to work in the rnd.
Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnds 9-23:k to end of rnd.
Cut CC, join MC, leave 6 inch tails on both.
Rnds 24-40: k to end of rnd.
Rnd 41: *k2tog; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 42: k to end of rnd.
Bind off with gather removal method.

NOSE
With O, cast on 10 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.
Row 1: k to end of row.
Row 2: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Rep Rows 1 and Row 2, until 4 sts rem.
Next row: k2tog, k2tog
Next row: k2tog.
BO

EARFLAPS
Make 2
With MC, CO 12 sts.
Row 1: k12.
*Row 2: sl1, p to end.
Row 3: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Rep from * until 2 sts rem.
Last row: p2tog.
BO.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

EYES
Make 2
With W, CO 7 sts
Row 1: k7
Row 2: sl1, k5, turn
Row 3: k5 (from peg 5-1)
Row 4: sl1, k4, turn
Row 5: k4 (from peg 4-1)
Row 6: sl1, k3, turn
Row 7: k3 (from peg 3-1)
Row 8: sl1, k6, turn
Row 9: k6 (from peg 6-1)

Repeat Rows 2-9: 9 more times. On the last repeat (the 10th repeat), stop at Row 8. BO with basic bind off.
Mattress stitch BO to CO.  Use the remaining yarn tail end to cinch the middle off the eye close.

Steam block to a flat circle/disc.

EYE CENTER
Make 2
With B, CO 5 sts
Row 1-8: k
BO with gather method. Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch yarn tail.  Use the yarn tail to sew this piece to the center of the EYE.

Sew the button to the center of the blue area of the eye. Sample was sewn with white yarn.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the earflaps in place as follows: mattress stitch the earflap to the cast on edge of the hat, it will be sewn over twelve stitches on the cast on edge. Skip 18 sts from the cast on edge, mattress stitch sew the other earflap onto the next 12 sts.  Front of the hat will have the remaining 22 sts from cast on edge.

On the front of the hat, use the picture of the hat to position and sew the eyes in place. Sew the nose in place after sewing the eyes in place.

Weave ends in.

Ears
Make 2
Using MC, CC, and W together, leave a 16″ length and cut.
Keeping the strands together, fold in half, pass the lengths through two stitches near the top of the hat, to the top-side of the eyes  make a slip knot with the length of yarn as close to the hat as possible. Trim the length of yarn to leave about 1″ ears. Do the same to the other side.

TASSELS
Make 2
Using MC, CC, B, W: cut 30″ length of yarn. Fold in half, using a crochet hook, hook at the half point (at the fold), and pull through the last stitch of the earflap. Make a slip knot as close as possible to the earflap.
Divide yarn strands into three groups (6, 5, 5) make a braid. Finish the braid with a slip knot. Trim the lengths of yarn, leaving a 1 inch tail.

Here is a picture of my crochet hats, my own pattern too, and I based myself on the crochet version for the loom knitted version.

Owl Hats crochet

 

On designing these, the most difficult part came to the eyes. It is very hard to knit a flat circle on a knitting loom as you are not able to increase/decrease easily. I went through 4 different ideas and finally, I did what I first thought would work but didn’t want to go that route, but it was the one that worked the best. The eyes are created flat with short-rows. I tried the increasing and decreasing in a circle and I found it to be completely a hassle and was taking the joy of the project away so I scrapped that idea. I did them flat, decreasing so that I could make a circle, the result didn’t look right at all. The short-rows was the best method that I could find for the circular flat discs needed for the eyes. 

If you know how to crochet, you can wip out a pair of circles in about 5 minutes flat, so you could go that route. Another option is to use felt for the eyes. 

4 Comments

  • Awesome, thank you so much! I love Freebie Fridays!

  • Can you explain how to do #15;

    Pick up cast on edge and place those stitches back on the loom, each peg should have 2 loops on it. Treat both loops as one loop. K to the end of the round.

    I cannot find any instructions on how to do this. Thank you very much

  • How would I make this for an adult? I have the aio loom. Thanks I think my friend who loves owls will love this.

  • Make it long, cast on more stitches

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