Browsing articles in "About STITCHES"
Jun 1, 2015

Stitchology 10

Waffle Stitch

Waffle Square

Last month we learned how to create the Popcorn Stitch, which has a wonderfully double sided affect with its reverse side filled with interlocking hexagons.  This month we’ll learn a way to create those lovely hexagons on the front of our work!  Of course, you could always simply work the Popcorn Stitch and turn your piece inside-out, but this month’s Waffle Stitch is created specially just for working it as the main stitch, with it’s own gauge and technique. I hope you enjoy! :)

Reverse Side-Waffle Square

Reverse Side-Waffle Square

Similar to the Popcorn Stitch, the Waffle Stitch is really very lovely on the reverse side too!  This makes it perfect for scarves, blankets, and any type of project that could be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Waffle Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in aquae)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round such as for a hat, use the Main Pattern Rows directions, but simply work all stitches in purl, as there will be no need for extra border stitches.  Make sure to also use a number of pegs that is divisible by 4.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of purls inside the Main Pattern Rows, keeping them divisible by 4.  You might also want to increase the number of rows/pegs used for the garter stitch top/sides/bottom to better match the new dimensions of the piece.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviation Key 2

 

Step by Step Instructions for the 8” x 8” square:

Waffle Square front angle (1024x662)

Cast onto your loom using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: k38

Row 2: p38

Row 3: k38

Waffle Stitch cuMain Pattern Rows

Rows 4-9: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a)  p38

b) k2, p34, k2

*Work 1 Waffle Row A:

Working with just pegs 4-36,  and starting at peg 4, lift the loop from the peg and hold between fingers. Stretch the loop upwards and count down 5 purl stitches at the front of the work, starting with the one in your fingers. *You’ll be able to see these sts by looking between the pegs.  Lift the 5th stitch up and over the peg. Replace the held loop. Continue with these same steps every 4th peg to peg 36. Every 4th peg should now have 2 loops, with the 3 pegs in between having only the original loop.  KO all these extra loops.

Waffle Row, Count Down 5 loops...

Waffle Row: Count Down 5 loops…

Waffle Row, Place 5th loop back on peg...

Place 5th loop back on peg, then replace held loop…

Waffle Row, Knit Off 5th stitch.

Knit off 5th loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

.

Rows 10-15:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a) p38

b) k2, p34, k2

*Work 1 Waffle Row B:

Working with just pegs 6-34,  and starting at peg 6, lift the loop from the peg and hold between fingers. Stretch the loop upwards and count down 5 purl stitches at the front of the work, starting with the one in your fingers. *You’ll be able to see these sts by looking between the pegs. Lift the 5th stitch up and over the peg. Replace the held loop. Continue with these same steps every 4th peg to peg 34.  Every 4th peg should now have 2 loops, with the 3 pegs in between having only the original loop.  KO all these extra loops.

Rows 16-69:  Repeat Rows 4-15, including Waffle Rows A and B.

Finishing Rows

Rows 70: p2, k34, p2

Row 71: k2, p34, k2

Row 72: p2, k34, p2

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

2 Comments

  • Such a pretty square :) I love the texture and I also really like the color.

  • Awww…thank you, Jenny! I really like how it came it too. I think it was worth the 2nd square, lol. ;) But, now I’ll have 2 ready for my blanket! The color is one of my favorites, too!

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Stitchology 10' on Delicious Share 'Stitchology 10' on Digg Share 'Stitchology 10' on Facebook Share 'Stitchology 10' on Google+ Share 'Stitchology 10' on LinkedIn Share 'Stitchology 10' on Pinterest Share 'Stitchology 10' on reddit Share 'Stitchology 10' on StumbleUpon Share 'Stitchology 10' on Twitter Share 'Stitchology 10' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Stitchology 10' on Email Share 'Stitchology 10' on Print Friendly
May 4, 2015

Stitchology IX

Popcorn Stitch

Popcorn Stitch Square

I have always loved this stitch!  This is actually one of the first of the “special” stitches I learned on the looms about 10 years ago.  It provides a wonderful, lofty texture with such a delicate design, yet is accomplished using only those basic techniques that are learned when first looming a hat!  It’s a terrific way to add some wow factor Popcorn Stitch back sideto any project, without also adding complicated stitches that might slow you down. ;)

The other terrific thing about the Popcorn Stitch is that the back is lovely too!  This makes the stitch perfect for scarves, blankets, and any type of project that could be seen from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Popcorn Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in sakura)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round such as for a hat, use the Main Pattern Rows directions, but simply work all stitches in EW, as there will be no need for extra border stitches.  Make sure to also use an even number of pegs.

Popcorn Stitch close upFor flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of EW’s inside the Main Pattern Rows.  You might also want to increase the number of rows/pegs used for the garter stitch top/sides/bottom to better match the new dimensions of the piece.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

This is what the stitch looks like in a small gauge.  You could make the popcorn shapes more pronounced by increasing the number of pegs skipped in the Popcorn Rows A & B below.

 

Abbreviation Key 2

 

Step by Step Instructions for the 8” x 8” square:

Popcorn Stitch front angle

Cast onto your loom using a total of 32 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p32

Row 2: k32

Row 3: p32

Main Pattern Rows

Rows 4-8: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Popcorn Stitch...count down 4

a)  k2, EW28, k2

b) p2, EW28, p2

*Work Popcorn Row A:

Working with every other peg starting at peg 4,  look to the inside of the loom and count down 4 loops, starting with the loop directly at the back of the peg.  Lift the 4th loop up and over the peg. (This is very similar to the technique used in making the brim of a classic hat.) Continue with these same steps every other peg, to peg 30.  Every even #’d peg between pegs 4 and 30 should now have 2 loops.  KO all the pegs with extra loops.

Row 9-13:  Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

a)  p2, EW28, p2

b) k2, EW28, k2

*Work Popcorn Row B:

Working with every other peg starting at peg 3,  look to the inside of the loom and count down 4 loops, starting with the loop directly at the back of the peg.  Lift the 4th loop up and over the peg. (This is very similar to the technique used in making the brim of a classic hat.) Continue with these same steps every other peg, to peg 29.  Every odd #’d peg between pegs 3 and 29 should now have 2 loops.  KO all the pegs with extra loops.

Rows 14-83:  Repeat Rows 4-13, including Popcorn Rows A & B.

Finishing Rows

Rows 84-86:  repeat set up Rows 1-3.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

9 Comments

  • The “Set up rows” were confusing me. I assume rows 1 and 3 are p32 not p3.

  • You are so right, Mike! Oopsie…I have no idea how those little 2’s got missed, lol. It’s all fixed now, though. Thanks!!! :D

  • Is it possible to expand on the description of the main pattern? I just cannot visualize it for some reason.

  • Hi Bev :)

    I just re-read the Main Pattern Rows and am not really sure how I could expand them…is there something in particular I can help you with?

    Thanks!
    Bethany~

  • I posted a question earlier, I’m not sure where it went so I will ask it again and hopefully find the answer this time. When I was learning to loom knit about 6 months ago the instructional I had showed me to cast on and knit in a counter clockwise direction. Because of a disability this is comfortable for me. I find going in a clockwise direction confusing. That said under standard knitting practices for knitting in the round one would read a pattern all rows from left to right. Will the pattern turn out the same if it is reversed (reading the pattern all rows from right to left) for a counter clockwise knitter?

    I have found that the rest of your instructions on the stitchology very helpful

    Thanks
    Heather

  • Hi Heather :)

    Good question! The answer is possibly not so simple. ;) I can’t answer definitively one way or the other, because it would depend on the pattern being transposed. First of all, I will say that when reading my Stitchology charts, you would read them in a right to left direction. If you are going to be working them in the round, you would still read them from right to left. If the pattern is a completely symmetrical one, then yes, you could read the charts from left to right with no difficulties. I think, though, that it is possible that some of the instructions might get confused if you tried to do this, which is why I say it’s not a universal fix.

    I am a left handed loomer, which means that many times I do not find it comfortable to knit in the directions that patterns state for me to go. In this case, as in the case you are in with the Stitchology patterns, I would simply continue to follow the instructions, but my peg 1 would be my own peg 1, my peg 2 would be my own peg 2…etc. In this way, I simply transpose the instructions in my mind, leaving me free to knit in whichever direction I like. So, if a chart reads from right to left, but I like to go from left to right, I would read the chart the way it was written, but would just place the stitches going the other direction. No changes would be made to the written instructions, so no problems would occur.

    Does this make sense?

  • Hi Beth

    And thank you. Yes it does make sense. I believe what you are saying is essentially that it wont matter if i knit in a counter clockwise direction (left to right) as long as I read the pattern from right to left.

    So to save problems I will have to write out the pattern so as not to get too confused.

    Thanks so much for the help.

    I do have another question if you have the time. Do you know if it is possible to do a K1b “knit one below” on a loom, such as in a beehive Waffle stitch. If so would be willing to do a post on it in a future Stitchology .

    Thanks
    Heather

  • Yes, Heather, you’ve got it! :) I’m glad that my lengthy answer was able to be deciphered, lol. If you can accomplish that, I have no doubts as to your ability in transposing the pattern instructions to any knitting direction you desire! :D

    This is very interesting that you ask about a waffle stitch, as I’m currently working on my own version of this kind of stitch for June. It might not be what you’re thinking of exactly, but I think you’ll like it. As to working a K1b, I believe you would just lift the loop that is lying directly behind the peg that you’ll be working your K1b on (the previous row’s knit stitch) and bring it back up onto the peg. You would then knit those two loops as one. I’m pretty sure this should come out the way you would need. I’ll have to try this myself and see if we can’t do some new stitches using this!

    Thanks, Heather! :)

  • Thank you again

    I will give this a try. I have convinced my son to take some pictures for me of the “samples” that I am making once I get something I like I will send you a picture link.

    Looking forward to the June post.

    Heather

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Stitchology IX' on Delicious Share 'Stitchology IX' on Digg Share 'Stitchology IX' on Facebook Share 'Stitchology IX' on Google+ Share 'Stitchology IX' on LinkedIn Share 'Stitchology IX' on Pinterest Share 'Stitchology IX' on reddit Share 'Stitchology IX' on StumbleUpon Share 'Stitchology IX' on Twitter Share 'Stitchology IX' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Stitchology IX' on Email Share 'Stitchology IX' on Print Friendly
Pages:1234567...13»

Our Buttons

NEW PRODUCTS!

Categories

Blog Archives

LKC Magazine

Loom Knitting Magazine