Nov 10, 2016

Fairhaven Poncho

Fairhaven Poncho

Introducing one of the snuggiest ponchos to ever grace the knitting world!  It is created with #7 Jumbo Weight yarn, worked in ribs and twists which serve to bump the warmth and coziness of the piece to incredible levels.  This is for all those times it would be so nice to stay snuggled inside a blanket wherever the day may lead!

Items Needed

LoomZippy Looms assembled to allow for 52 pegs— can be 12 Zippy looms, with 4 Zippy corners, or 13 Zippy looms in a row…can also be knit with only 10 Zippy looms with 4 corners, or 11 Zippy looms in a row, if the side panels are worked separately and then seamed into place during finishing.

Yarn: approx. 440 yards #7 Jumbo Weight (Sample uses 9.5 skeins of Red Heart Grande in Wisteria, 46 yds per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)  **Note: it is suggested to use a yarn with a wool blend to help in blocking the pullover to the desired size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size:  This design is either very stretchable or has more swing, which allows for just about all women’s sizes. This is why using a wool/wool blend yarn for blocking to the size desired is helpful.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, knitting pins and blocking pins)

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
rt2: right twist over 2 stitches
lt2: left twist over 2 stitches
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:

There are a couple different options for this design.  It can be worked as a longer poncho pullover as is shown in the photos by simply following the instructions as written.  To work this pattern a little shorter, such as for a caplet or shoulder pullover that ends at just about the elbows, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart for only one of the 20 row repeats, ending with Row 22, rather than the two as written, Proceed to the Neck Shaping rows beginning at Row 43.  Also, the arm holes are not added during seaming.

If working with a shorter loom assembly is desired, the side panels can be worked separately from the back panel. Just keep in mind that this will add more seaming to the project during the finishing steps. For the number of Zippys required for this vs. the entire back panel + side panels, see the Loom section above.  When working the side panels separately, follow the instructions for the first 6 sts, and then the last 6 sts of the Back & Side Panels section.  The back panel will be worked on all pegs in between those 12 sts.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  All cable rows are worked from the Left to the Right. They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Front Panel

Set up Rows:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Row 1:  p2, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2:  k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to end of row.

Main Pattern Rows:

Rows 3-5:  repeat Rows 1 and 2, ending with Row 1.

Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 7:  p2, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 11:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Fairhaven Pullover, backRow 12:  k1, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 13:  p3, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 14:  k1, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k1, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 17:  repeat Row 1.

Row 18: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 3-22.

Neck Shaping:

Row 43:  p2, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, BO 2 sts, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p2.

Row 44: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [lt2], BO right st of lt2. Drop yarn from skein 1 and add another skein to the 2nd half of the panel: [rt2], BO left st of rt2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 45:  p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 2 and pick up yarn from skein 1: BO 1 st, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2,, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 46:  k1, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 1 and pick up yarn from skein 2: BO 1 st, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 47:  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 2.  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 1.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

 

Back & Side Panels

**Note: See Pattern Notes for details on working these three panels separately with fewer Zippy looms.

Set up Rows:

Rows 1-5:  p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1.

Main Pattern Rows:

Row 6:  k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 7:  p7, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.

Row 8: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 11:  p7, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p7. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 12:  k6, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 13:  p8, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 14:  k6, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k6, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 17:  repeat Row 11.

Row 18: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Fairhaven Pullover, side/backRow 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Row 23:  repeat Row 11.

Row 24:  k6, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 25:  repeat Row 11.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 6-25.

Back Shaping:

Row 43:  p7, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p7.

Row 44: k6, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 45:  p7, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p7.

Row 46:  k6, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 47:  p6, BO 9 sts (to peg 15), k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1,  BO 9 sts (to peg 40), p6.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood

Prepare to work just the center 16 pegs to continue the cable pattern up through the center of the hood.  The side pieces will be picked up later and can either just stay on the loom, or can be safely removed onto stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn for safe keeping.

Row 48:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 49:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 50:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 51:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 52:  k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1.

Row 53:  k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Row 54:  k1, p2, work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p2, k1.

Row 55:  repeat Row 53.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 56:  k1, p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], p1, k1.

Row 57:  repeat Row 51.

Row 58:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 59:  repeat Row 49.

Row 60:  repeat Row 48.

Row 61:  repeat Row 49.

Row 62:  repeat Row 50.

Rows 63-65:  repeat Row 51.

Row 66:  repeat Row 58.

Row 67:  repeat Row 49.

Rows 68-87:  repeat Rows 48-67.

Bind off these 16 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood Side Panels:

Working on the 6 side panel sts on the left, place live sts back onto the loom if needed, and work as follows:

Rows 1-20:  repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: k6.

B: p6.

Row 21: k6, CO to 2 additional pegs (these will be on the side closest to the center cable panel).

Rows 22-51: repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: p8.

B: k8.

Fairhaven Pullover, 3Bind off these 8 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Repeat for the right side panel, making sure to CO the extra 2 sts toward the center cable panel.

Finishing

Invisibly seam the side hood panels to the center hood panel, keeping even throughout. Using knitting pins will help with the seaming. When the side hood panel narrows to 6 sts, the shoulder should have been reached.  Seam the back shoulder area closed smoothly.  In order to achieve the raised chain look that the sample shows, stitch the side panel just a bit underneath the BO at the shoulders.

Beginning at the bottom, invisibly seam the front panel to the side panels, keeping the area of approximately 15 rows at the center of the horizontal running cables open for arm holes.  Make sure the two sides are stitched evenly so that the pullover lays smoothly and is balanced.  Continue to seam all the way to the outside edges of the center “V” at the neck edge.  To achieve the raised chain look, repeat the procedure of stitching the side panel just underneath the BO edges at the shoulders.

Finish ends and trim close to work.  For this almost rope-like yarn, it is sometimes difficult to weave in securely.  Feel free to tie the joining yarn ends into square knots. Stretch the knitting as the ends are woven in to help ensure they don’t come loose.

Block thoroughly so that the cables “pop” and the size is as desired. (Sample uses steam blocking)

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

 

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8 Comments

  • That is lovely hon.

  • Thank you, Monique! :D

    Bethany~

  • The cables on this look beautiful!

  • Oh, thank you, Christine! :) They are just simple 2 peg twists, but provide a big wow factor, right? Especially in this Zippy gauge.

    Bethany~

  • Hi I am a little confused about the cast on of 41 pegs when I follow the pattern.
    I’m some how going over to 43 pegs I have done this 4 times and each time when I follow from *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from *
    If I go 2 times is to short and leaves a long ways to the end of the 41 pegs
    and 3 times is to long when adding the end p1. Going past the cast on.
    I hope you can make sense of what I mean and maybe see my mess up. I apologize for the inconvenience I’m stumped and I usually better on videos. I’m hoping you can see wher I am making a mistake I configured the zippy loom set as directed.
    Thanks Chyre

  • Hi Chyre :) Thank you for your question! Yes, the CO really is 41 pegs. The confusion comes from the “repeat to last stitch”. You will be literally repeating those sts until you reach the last peg in line, which then will be a purl. It is not a full repeat on that last time…you just repeat until the last peg is reached. ;)

    I believe this may be the only time in the pattern that this happens, as every other repeat should complete when it reaches whatever number is stated for those last sts. So sorry for the confusion!

    Here’s a tip, in case you run into something else confusing: the front panel is primarily the pattern’s chart repeated, with just a vertical column of purls after repeating the chart three times (so on peg 40). There are also two vertical columns, one each on the very outsides of the repeated pattern chart (so pegs 1 and 41) that are made up of garter stitch (knits alternating with purls). This makes a good reference point to check against.

    If you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

  • Dear Bethany.
    Goodmorning and Thank you so much! I understand that completely now. I really love this pattern and was getting frustrated with myself. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. :)

  • Oh, good, Chyre! :) I’m so glad I could help clear things up for you. No need to be frustrated…I’m always happy to help. I am so thrilled you love the design and are whipping one up! There is a project page for this on Ravelry that you can link your own to, so we can all enjoy it along with you. Can’t wait to see it! :D

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