Sep 17, 2017

Lace Shawlette

The rotating loom mechanism makes the stitch pattern on this Lace Shawlette a breeze! Pick a self-striping yarn and let the nature of the yarn do the work for you! This shawlette makes the perfect accessory for the upcoming fall!

LOOM:  Double Knit Loom was used as a single sided rake, outside rail only, 51 pegs used.

YARN:  Approx 440 yds of worsted weight acrylic yarn. Sample used Lion Brand Landscapes in Boardwalk, 3 skeins. 

NOTIONS:  tapestry needle, row counter (optional).

GAUGE: Not relevant.

SIZE:  18 W x 68 L inches after blocking.

ABBREVIATIONS

ek=ewrap knit

p=purl

yo=yarn over. Ewrap the empty peg.

td=triple decrease. Over 3 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 in the middle, peg 3 on the left. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2, move loop from peg 3 to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty, peg 2 has 3 loops on it, you will treat the 3 loops as one loop when working the peg, peg 3 is empty.

PATTERN NOTE: The pattern is worked in ewrap knit stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 51 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: p to end of row.

Row 2: ek to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: ek to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: ek to end of row.

Row 7: p3, *yo, td, yo, ek3; rep from * to last 6 sts, yo, td, yo, p3.

Row 8: ek to end of row.

Row 9: p3, *ek3, yo, td, yo; rep from * to last 6 sts, ek3, p3.

Row 10: ek to end of row.

 

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 48 inches from cast on row.

Next 6 rows

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: ek to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: ek to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in.

Steam block to measurements.

Short how-to video coming soon!

 

 

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Sep 11, 2017

Alani Lace Socks

It is not secret, knitting socks is one of my favorite past times. There is nothing more soothing than seeing those tiny stitches popping down from the knitting loom. The process is hypnotic and soothing. A little bit of lace lends these socks a delicate feel. 

LOOM: His & Her Sock Looms, sample used 56 peg, orange loom.
YARN: Approx. 250 yards DK weight yarn. Sample used 1 skein Malabrigo, Arroyo (335 yards, 100% superwash merino wool) Pool color.
NOTIONS: knitting tool, (2) peg markers, tapestry needle, (2) US 2 double pointed needles
GAUGE: 14 sts x 21 rows = 2 inches in stockinette
SIZE: Sample is approx women’s size 6.5-7.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the U-stitch was used for sample).
CO=cast on
BO=bind off
WY=working yarn
yo=yarn over
ssk=slip, slip, knit. Over two pegs. Peg 1 is on the right and peg 2 on the left. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit peg 1, treating both loops on peg 1 as one loop.
k2tog=knit two together. Over two pegs. Peg is on the right, peg 2 on the left. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 1 as one loop.
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
rep=repeat
w&t=wrap and turn (lift the loop(s) from the peg, wrap working yarn around empty peg and replace held loop(s) back onto peg.)

PATTERN NOTES
Sample is approx Women’s size 6.5-7.5. To make a sock for other sizes on the 56 peg, orange loom, simply adjust the number of leg and foot rounds to equal desired lengths.

INSTRUCTIONS

CO 56 pegs, prepare to work in the round. (sample used ewrap cast on)

CUFF

Rnd 1-20: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 21: k to end of rnd.
Rnd 22: *yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 21 and 22: 2 more times. Rep Row 21.

HEEL

Set peg/stitch markers on pegs 1 and 28.
Pegs 10-19 are the pegs that will be left unwrapped during the w&t process. There will be 9 pegs on either side of the center pegs that will be the W&T pegs.

Refer to Short-row heel/toe instructions at the end of pattern for specific details.

At end of heel instructions- working yarn will be at peg 1 of Heel (Peg 28).

FOOT

Next rnd: k28, * yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Next rnd: k to end of rnd

Rep last 2 rnds until foot measures
6.5″ from back of heel. To make item for larger sizes, continue working until sock foot measures (measure from back of heel) 2.5 inches less than desired total length. 

TOE

Follow the same instructions as for the Heel to create the toe. Refer to Short-row heel/toe instructions at the end of pattern for specific details.

FINISHING

Keeping the stitches from twisting, mount the first 28 stitches onto a double pointed needle. Place the remainder 28 stitches onto second double pointed needle.

Bind off all stitches using the Kitchener Stitch. Tutorial:
http://www.knittingboard.com/kitchener-stitch-page/

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Short-row heel/toe Instructions for 56 Pegs

Row 1: k27, w&t peg 28
Row 2: k26, w&t peg 1
Row 3: k25, w&t peg 27
Row 4: k24, w&t peg 2
Row 5: k23, w&t peg 26
Row 6: k22, w&t peg 3
Row 7: k21, w&t peg 25
Row 8: k20, w&t peg 4
Row 9: k19, w&t peg 24
Row 10: k18, w&t peg 5
Row 11: k17, w&t peg 23
Row 12: k16, w&t peg 6
Row 13: k15, w&t peg 22
Row 14: k14, w&t peg 7
Row 15: k13, w&t peg 21
Row 16: k12, w&t peg 8
Row 17: k11, w&t peg 20
Row 18: k10, w&t peg 9

(Pegs 10-19 do not have wraps on them)

(Note: The following increase rows will require both lifting and working all previous wraps and stitches together as one as the pegs are knit and w&t’d. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)

Row 19: k11, w&t peg 21
Row 20: k12, w&t peg 8
Row 21: k13, w&t peg 22
Row 22: k14, w&t peg 7
Row 23: k15, w&t peg 23
Row 24: k16, w&t peg 6
Row 25: k17, w&t peg 24
Row 26: k18, w&t peg 5
Row 27: k19, w&t peg 25
Row 28: k20, w&t peg 4
Row 29: k21, w&t peg 26
Row 30: k22, w&t peg 3
Row 31: k23, w&t peg 27
Row 32: k24, w&t peg 2
Row 33: k25, w&t peg 28
Row 34: k26, w&t peg 1

Peg 1 and Peg 28 still have wraps on them. Continue to the foot instructions. On the first round, knit off the wraps together with the stitch (3 over 1) as the next round is worked.

 

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Sep 4, 2017

Stitchology 36: Triple Wrap Around Stitch

This month’s stitch creates a lacy, yet still plush design that is reminiscent of cresting waves upon ocean beaches, seashells, or even fish scales (holey mackerel, lol!). It uses a new technique of wrapping back and forth between two pegs at a time to achieve this lovely effect.  Feel free to use this stitch for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed from either side.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The “triple wrap around” (TWA) referred to in this pattern is a combination of techniques worked on just two pegs, moving back and forth between them in the following manner (instructions are to begin from right to left/clockwise):

Step 1: S2 (carry working yarn (WY) behind pegs 1 & 2)

Step 2: Bring WY around to the front of peg 2 and SWYF (slip stitch with working yarn in front of peg: see below for more info) on peg 2 and on peg 1.

Step 3: Bring WY behind peg 1 and 2 and around to the front of the peg 2.  SWYF again on peg 2.

Step 4: Bring WY between peg 2 and peg 1 and around to the front of peg 1, creating an E-wrap.

Step 5: KO peg 1.  K peg 2.

 

(SWYF) directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front. This simply means that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

 

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker lines are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches outside the border square are worked only once: at the end of the odd rows, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the even rows, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeating Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches outside the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *k2, TWA, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2:  k all sts.

Row 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, TWA.

Row 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Round 1:  *k2, TWA, rep from * to end.

Round 2: k all sts.

Round 3: *TWA, k2, rep from * to end.

Round 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rounds 1-4 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

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Aug 28, 2017

Double Knit ‘in the round’ Instructions

We have received many requests for how-to instructions and videos for the ‘rotating’ Double Knit Loom. Videos are in the works… stay tuned for those.

There are detailed instructions that come with the loom, but we will provide here as well. In this venue, we have the ability to make photos bigger, which can be really helpful. Also if you have questions about the process or the loom, you can ask in comments and get an answer quickly.
The process of knitting double knit ‘in the round’ is a bit different from double knitting on a straight loom or knitting board.  Actually the movement/ process is much easier…. no turning the loom to other side. You simply knit continuous in one direction around the loom. Simply rotate the loom as you weave, and hook over stitches; your knitting location stays in one spot.
In double knitting, you are using 2 pegs as one stitch, one peg on the outer loom,  and the peg directly across on the inner loom (stockinette).  After lots of testing, we found 52 stitches to be the ideal amount of stitches for an adult size hat.

Cast On (in the round)

 IMPORTANT:  First thing, make sure the arrows on the inner loom and the outer loom line up. They are there so the peg spacing is in correct position.

1. To begin, start with a loop knot and put on the first peg on outer loom.  You can mark this peg with a stitch marker, or use the outer arrow.  Wrap the next peg on inner loom, to the R of arrow on inner loom. Wrap ‘every other’ peg, alternating from outer to inner loom.

Keep going around the loom with same weaving, like above. When you reach the starting peg, wrap the adjacent peg (to left of starting peg) on the outer loom. Two pegs will be wrapped consecutively.

2. Then continue around the loom again in the same, ‘every other’ wrapping pattern. (Working the 2 consecutive pegs adjusts your weaving, so that now, you will wrap pegs skipped in the first time around loom).

Make sure, after working around loom (2 times), all pegs have one wrap. As you work, allow the loom to turn-no need to move the loom. 

3. Now cut a piece of yarn approx. 35 inches long. Lay across stitches and around the loom between the inner and outer loom pegs (blue yarn) .

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2.  Wrap around the loom two times again, putting a second wrap on all pegs. Now, all pegs will have 2 wraps.

5. Hook over the bottom loop over the top loop on all pegs. Do this on both sides of the loom (front of the outer loom and back of the inner loom). Push sts down from top of loom after the row is hooked over.

Hook over loops on the front of outer loom

Hook over loops on inside of inner loom

 Now the stitches are cast on. From the cast on row, continue in any stitch pattern. Stitches may seem to be loose for first few rows, but they will even up after you get further along in the knitting.

Stockinette Stitch

This stitch is worked with the same process as Stockinette Cast On. It creates a smooth even knit pattern.

Weave front to back, wrap the outer loom peg and then wrap the inner loom peg in same pattern as with stockinette cast on, skipping “every other’ peg. Wrap 2 times around the loom.

Then with knit hook, take bottom loop over the top loop on each peg. Simple repeat the above to create knit as long as desired.

Ribbing Stitch 

This is a great stitch for hat brims, cowls or scarves. This stitch is similar to the stockinette, except it’s done at an angle. Work with even number of stitches.

Start from the starting peg on outer loom and wrap to the 3rd peg to R on the inner loom. Wrap that peg, and then back to the outer loom, keeping the ‘every other’ peg pattern. Wrap this peg.  This creates the angle for the ribbing stitch.

Continue around the loom, maintaining the angle with ‘every other’ peg, until you get to peg opposite the starting peg. Wrap this peg, the  peg on outer loom to left of starting peg (black arrow).  This creates 2 pegs wrapped consecutively on the outer loom. Do not wrap the starting peg.

Now change angle and wrap the empty peg (black arrow) directly across on the inner loom.

This is the return angle for the ribbing stitch and note, it is at an opposite angle from the first round.  This change of direction is what creates the ribbing. Continue around loom, until all pegs have one loop.  You will end with peg to L of starting peg on inner loom. This is how it should look…

Hook over all pegs from outer loom, and then on inner loom. Push stitches down and continue steps for ribbing rows.

Gather Bind Off  (for Hats)

Move the stitches from inner loom to the outer loom. Then with 2 loops on each peg on the outer loom, hook over the bottom loop over the top loop.

Moving stitches from inner loom to outer loom

Bottom loop over top loop (outer loom)

Cut the working yarn coming from the hat, leaving 16-20” tail for the gathering process. Take a darning needle and thread yarn tail. Use the yarn tail to hold the stitches. Remove the stitches from the first 2 pegs, then skip next 2 pegs, remove the stitches from the next two pegs and place on yarn tail.

Continue process of skipping 2 pegs and picking up 2 stitches until you reach the end of the round.  Next, go around the loom again removing the remaining stitches. Cinch the top closed.  Weave ends in.

 

 

10 Comments

  • I ordered this but received double knit instead lol

  • Hi Anne, We have your note and so sorry for sending the wrong product. We will have the Premium Round Looms off to you tomorrow along with a prepaid label to return the rotating loom. Thanks for your patience.

  • I wish the pictures showed the arrows so I could determine if the yarn is in the right place after the end of the round. My yarn end never is back by the arrw.

  • Love the way this operates but I rarely double knit. It’s a whole new challenge for me. When I finished my stockinette cast on, I started my row one stitch to the left of the arrow on the loom. Not what I planned. I knit a few rows of stockinette to get the feel of the loom. I found that at the end of each row, I was ending up one more stitch over to the left. Clearly, I’m placing my working yarn in the wrong spot. Can anyone help?

  • Hi Melissa, What you are doing is OK and the starting peg will continue to move to the left. What we have found is if you move the yarn over to the same starting peg with each row, it will be a more even knit. It looks like you are skipping a peg when you start a row, but it will come out good and not leave any holes. Just be sure all pegs get wrapped as you return to starting point.

  • Thanks so much Pat.

  • Could you please tell us when we will be able to see videos on how to use this loom? I think I have it figured out but it would be nice to see someone doing it to be sure it is all right.

  • What size hats the this loom make. Does it make baby hats?

  • It makes adult size hats.

  • Videos will be available by the end of September, beginning of October.

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Aug 25, 2017

NEW ‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom

 

Introducing the new ‘ROTATING’ Double Knit Loom!  This loom features the new ‘patent pending’ rotating base.   You no longer have to change positions as you knit, the loom rotates as you work!

Loom sits comfortably on your lap, or on a table. It’s compact and lightweight …so easy to use.

Knit in the round, or knit flat panels. Use some of the pegs, or all 52 of them, depending on width of knit desired.

 

 

The loom comes in parts for easy assembly: (6) legs, (1) inner loom, (1) outer loom, (1) rotating base, instruction booklet and knit hook.

It’s super fast to set up with snap-in-place parts.  Set it up with inner and outer loom, and 6 legs for double knitting. Or set it up with outer loom only, using 3 legs, for single knitting.

It’s so easy! Made of high quality durable plastic.  The booklet will show you how to quickly and easily configure the loom for your project.

 

This loom is great for Hats, Scarves, Cowls and Shawls…. whatever, and however, you choose to create; this loom can make creating your project FUN and EASY!  Recommend yarn #4 or #5 for double knitting, and #2, #3, or #4, for single knitting.

The Double Knit Loom includes very detailed instructions with lots of how-to photos, introducing the double knit ‘in the round’ process. Get started with these easy fun projects.   More patterns/projects coming soon!  Click on photo for pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

For faster knitting also check out the Loom Double Hooks, knits two pegs at the same time.

35 Comments

  • AWESOME!!!!! Where and when they be in retail stores

  • Hi Caroline,
    That just depends on the retail chain….how many of their stores that they schedule for the product and the timing of the purchase. I would just check with your local stores in September and maybe they can answer this for you.

  • I love it i’m from Portugal. When is ready to sale?

  • Hi Anabela,
    We can ship now when your order is received.
    Thanks, Pat

  • I have the new round and sock looms. Just I ordered the rotating loom and the double hooks and I can’t wait to get them.

  • I ordered last night before the coupon came out. That will teach me to jump the gun! LOL

  • I’m so anxious! I love all the looms, I have and used all of them to date. I can hardly wait.

  • What’s the widest selection n the hats it can make?
    Thanks

  • would love to buy one of these but where can I find them.

  • This looks interesting. Are there any video tutorials available?

  • When and where can I buy it?

  • can a video be made showing how this loom works. I have not done double knit and am not quite getting it if I need this loom

  • Are you able to knit a double knit scarf with this

  • Yes you can knit a double knit scarf up to approximately 16″ wide.

  • We are working on a series of videos, expecting to be up in September. We will announce as date gets closer.

  • Not yet, planning in September.

  • It is awesome for adult double knit hats, and single knit child to youth size depending on stitch. For flat panels in both single and double knit approximately 16″ wide.

  • Thank you!!

  • Thank you for your support of KB!!

  • I just purchased one the other day I can’t wait to get this loon and the new picks. I knit hats and scarves for homeless vets and this will help me get more done quicker Thanks for making this new loom and picks

  • I’m not seeing a price on this one. I purchased the premium round looms and the his & her sock looms which I saw prices but for some reason, not on this one. Looks very interesting!!

  • $29.99. Today Monday is the last day of the coupon code: “Doubleknit”

  • The loom sounds wonderful, but I am concerned with the fact that there are only 6 or was it 8 patterns to use with this loom. Will I be able to use any of my hat and scarf patterns on it? Particularly concerned with doing youth hats. I have a 10 year old and a 35 year old that I want to make hats for.

  • Hi Deborah,
    You can use all your scarf patterns up to 52 stitches on the loom in single knit or double.
    The hat knitting is same as working on a round loom. The youth hats are just a matter of what is the head measurement, and how deep do you want to make it. Also, I would experiment with different yarns. You may want to make them in the single knit.

  • What is the advantage of a double Loom vs. just one Loom? What can you make with the double?

  • Hi Ann, You use a double set of pegs to work in double knit. Before, all double knit was done in a flat panel and then sewn together. This loom allows you to create a double knit hat in circular and therefore, no seam. If you are not familiar with double knit, you may enjoy the videos on the website to see what can be done and some advantages of working in double knit as well as single knit.

  • Where I can find those looms thank you

  • Hi Olga, All available looms can be purchased on website http://www.knittingboard.com. Some hobby and craft stores will be carrying some looms, but you need to check with your local stores for availability.

  • Using the afghan loom and a figure eight stitch, how much yarn is needed to make an lapghan? What are the measurements of an average size lapghan?

  • When you do the tutorials will you please make one showing the various ways to work color changes. I have no problem with single knit but, I am having issues with the double knit. I have the new double knit round loom (which I love ??). I have watched the available videos, they aren’t quite enough. Showing how to carry yarn, start new rounds, attaching new yarn, would greatly help! I am not newbie, and as such, I know that these videos would be of immense value to new loom knitters! Also, would some one make a video showing how to create your own cable patterns. Cables are easy to learn with practice, but a mystery on how to combine different types. Hope that makes sense. Thanks!

  • We will keep this in mind for the next tutorials. Thank you.

  • If the fabric goes down the legs to the base, how do you do any length, without piling it up there? Thanks!

  • Hi Linda, If you are doing a hat, you can just roll it up until the hat is done. If its a flat panel, just allow the length to come out between the legs and there will be no limit as to how long the piece becomes.

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Aug 18, 2017

NEW…’His and Her’ Sock Loom Set

 

“OH look, honey, we can have matching socks”….

Brand new to the sock loom collection!  His & Her Sock Looms are here!

Now available, stationary fine gauge sock looms, with plastic pegs. The pegs are engineered specifically for ease of use, lifting yarn over pegs, and ‘staying put’ in the loom.

There are 2 looms in the set, the purple loom creates a large adult size sock, 64 pegs (HIS) and the orange loom creates an average adult size sock, 56 pegs (HERS).  In sizing, we refer to the width of the sock, or size of the leg opening. The length of the sock, and foot can be knit as long as desired.

No more counting pegs. Easy and superb for beginners!

 

The sock loom set includes full ‘step by step’ instructions for knitting socks in both sizes, adult and adult- large. DK weight sock yarn is recommended for best results.  Worsted #4 sock yarn can be used for a tighter knit, thicker sock.

Check out our new basic sock patterns!  Bethany Dailey’s  Keepin’ It Simple Socks, is great for men or for anyone with a larger width- knit with the purple loom.

For average adult size (width), use the orange loom, and knit the new Comfy Footies! designed by Isela Phelps.

For quick reference, check out the Heel & Toe video. Work your sock while following along with the video.

…We hope you enjoy! Happy Knitting!

 

 

27 Comments

  • Congrats on the new products. It says fine gauge, but doesn’t mention an actual number so what’s the p2p gauge on these sock looms?

  • These beautiful new sock looms are listed as Fine Gauge. Does that mean the measurement is 5/16″?

  • Love the idea of the looms themselves. Hate the (hetero)sexist stereotype your marketing is feeding. Human beings really don’t have that much sexual dimorphism. In general, males and females share most of the size range. Many men need smaller, many women need larger. The ‘his and her’s’ is appealing to the vision of the big strong man and dainty little woman that ends up causing a lot of harm for all of the people, and couples, that don’t fit that. It is a slap at the woman who needs a larger sock with all the implied message that she is not feminine,, that she is coarse and masculine. While the man (or even boy) who has to use the ‘girl loom’… well, obviously I’m not going to repeat here the slurs about men and boys who are considered feminine.

    And those are just the basic binary issues. The second you look outside of those, it gets worse.

    I love that you are doing two sizes of looms. People come in enough sizes, I’d love even more.
    But I’d particularly love it if you didn’t define my gender and the gender of everyone I’m making socks for by the size of their feet

  • I have had eperiance this type of knitting. the tenches is very good.

  • Hi, You have brought up a good evaluation. Thank you for your thoughts, and we will remember this in the future. Thanks

  • Yes, that is correct. 5/16″ from peg2peg.

  • Hi, Thanks for asking. The looms are 5/16″ from center of peg to center of peg.

  • i recently ordered these looms, always wanted to make socks,but found instructions to difficult to follow, now will try these and see what happens …

    happy sock making to me…

  • I love the new products! Thank you, as for me, I LOVE the his and her label! My husband was happy that he was going to get a pair of socks! Haha. I read about your company and I applaud you and your success. Keep up the good work! Thank you again : )

  • I amiss very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.

  • I am very excited by the new looms that are coming out . With the Oval shape I hope to be able to do toe-up socks more.

  • Thanks Carol,we appreciate all feedback. So are you working on your husbands socks?

  • I’m looking forward to trying it out, I think having oval loom will help, even though I knot and crochet my socks I do love loom sock knitting

  • I can’t wait to get these looms and think I will have to order today! I have all of the KB adjustable sock looms and like them well enough but these new ones sound so much easier to use, especially since they don’t need adjusting. I also have to say that I don’t have the same mindset as a previous poster and can’t say that those kind of thoughts ever entered my mind. My husband has small feet and would probably need one made on the “Hers” and I highly doubt that he will feel very feminine. People that I make things for aren’t going to care, or feel defined by, which loom I use. I love the “His and Her” name!

  • I have a question I saw online that 5/16 might be considered a SG = Small Gauge (5/16?,). So should I look for sock yarns that are “2” weight and not fingering weight 1? Maybe to use my sock stash combine 2 strands of weight 1 together. Or do I need baby weight or 3 light worsted or sport yarn for this loom? Sorry for so many questions. ….
    Well can’t wait to try it out already thinking of what yarns I may have. Thanks for any help.

  • I love all the AKB looms! I look fw to getting these. I also love thinking of them as his and hers. It makes it easy for me quickly recognize which one I need to grab, especially when I am in a hurry. Keep up the good work!!!

  • I totally agree with Amber – I think you should have used large/medium/small.

  • I got it today and started a sock. I LOVE IT!!! No more awkward end pegs so easy to use. Love the light weight of it to. It’s very easy to use on my hands. I have few different looms This is my favorite sock loom by far!! I????????????I may have to order second set so I can make two socks at a time. Thank you Pat for very fast shipping and coupon.

  • Oops my emojis went as question marks not happy faces

  • I have a question about one of the patterns for this loom. The Comfy Footies pattern. It says the cuff and leg should measure 7 inches. Is that correct for a footie sock?
    I love the feel of these looms and am anxious to try them out! Thanks for your help.

  • I just ordered my set and am looking forward to making socks! I ordered the Premium round loom set and the shipping was so quick! Love it! I have pretty much all of the other KB looms and I couldn’t be happier!! I think these new sock looms will be fun to take on little trips, so easy to tuck into a bag and go! Thanks KB looms!!!

  • Hi Sally, The designer feels that you are looking at a different pattern. There is no mention of 7″ for these footies. Please be sure you have downloaded the footies pattern. We will also check to be sure we have the links correct.

  • Will all of your new looms eventually be available in stores? I have purchased all of your other knitting looms either at Hobby Lobby or Joanna craft stores.

  • Hi Mary, It takes awhile for the store chains to order and receive and then get them into the planned stores. Just keep checking with your local stores, but realize that the chains choose which of their stores will receive each product. So some locations may have a product and another location may not. Also, large chains plan in advance, so it may take awhile.

  • With the double knitting, if connected as a hat, is it ‘trapped’ and limited to the 8 inch height? I’m thinking of the magic scarf type, you knit for say three feet in the round. I see if you double knit fkat it can come out and flow somehow but in the round, the legs limit flow-correct?
    I ordered mine so when it gets here I will experiment and enjoy all the new patterns.
    I love how it rotates.

  • Hi Jeannette,
    I agree that this is the first impression, but the hat scrunches and you can make it as deep as desired. There’s a lot of room for the round item as the space in the leg area is large. Once it is complete, you just slid it off the top of the loom.

  • I have just about all your looms. love them all but use s loom most, and sock looms

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Aug 11, 2017

Introducing…’Premium’ Round Loom Set

This has been a big request for years. Finally it’s here!!

The ‘Premium’ Round Loom Set is the ideal set for small gauge knitting, with pegs spaced at 3/8” apart.  This is great spacing for using all your favorite worsted weight yarns. The looms are made of high grade plastic with a smooth finish, and stay put pegs.

Knit hats in 3 sizes!  Works super great for shawls, scarves, home decor, baby items, and much more!

Loom sizes…   small 64 pegs, medium 72 pegs and large 80 pegs. Available now at KB Looms. Here’s a few of our current hat patterns that work on the new looms. Click on photo for pattern.

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14 Comments

  • Yay! Thank you.

  • BEAUTIFUL! I cannot wait to get my poor arthritic fingers on these! Thank you AKB!

  • I like Authentic Knitting Board looms. I have the oval loom set, but am used to using round ones. This looks tempting. I don’t see an extra peg where I can anchor my yarn, it would sure help me. Thanks.

  • What size hat does the small loom make infant or toddler

  • Are there any patterns other then hats for this loom?
    Also I am trying to secure these looms and it seems it won’t take my coupon codes
    Does it take more then one code?

  • Hi, Only one discount code can be entered for an order. We are working on many more patterns/projects. Just need to watch the blog each week.

  • I’ve been waiting so patiently!! Love all the looms I find it easy to use a round looms but have and use the oval hat loom as well.

  • Hi Donna, Thanks for your patience–we hope you enjoy.

  • i am the proud owner of all KB Looms!!! I love all of them. I was sure hoping these looms were next!!! Thank you KB!! I cannot wait to get my hands on these!!!!

  • Hi there, I am in South Africa and looms are normally very expensive to import with an exchange rate of almost 15 to 1. How much are these and what would the postage be to South Africa. :)

  • YAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! I have often wondered why there was not a round kb loom . I am so happy. Lets do the happy dance.

  • Love the white hat with the flower!!! It’s so nice to see a pattern for a flower finally on loom not too many of those out there. Excited about all the new looms coming out!!! It’s nice see loom knitting getting some notice.

  • will future kits include the 4th loom in the smaller size? or be available separately?, for making preemie baby hats, mittens, and slippers.
    Thank you Pat
    Nicole

  • Hi Nicole, Let’s wait and see! Sounds interesting to me……

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Aug 7, 2017

Stitchology 35: Scalloped Shells

Can’t you just feel the sea breezes, hear the surf, and feel the sand in your toes just from looking at this month’s Scalloped Shells stitch? It may look complicated, but is fairly simple to do, especially using the stitch breakdown and the tutorial video you’ll find below.  Happy summer looming!   Something to note: even though this stitch works up in natural waves, it can still be used as a square for blankets, if you so desire.  This square would be a terrific one to place at the top and bottom edges with the scallop sides out, or you could simply block it so that the bottom is in a straight line for easier seaming together with other afghan blocks. ;)

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

This stitch uses a multiple of 11 pegs (stitch itself expands to 15 loops per repeat, see the instructions on how to accomplish this on only 11 pegs.)

All knit stitches use the true knit stitch or “reverse purl”.

Double YO: E-wrap yarn around peg twice, KO, leaving the 2 wraps on peg.

KO: knit off (lift bottom loop over top loop and completely over the top of the peg)

Sl: slip (skip peg, do not work)

WY: working yarn

Wyib: working yarn carried to the back of the peg

YO: lay working yarn across the front of the peg.

K5tog: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg and KO one at a time.

 

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 11. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1-3: knit

Row 4: purl

Row 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)

Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)

Peg 3: knit

Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.

Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)

Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)

Peg 11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Row 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 11: purl.

Peg 10: purl the top loop and move to peg 11. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 9: purl the top loop and move to peg 10. Purl the bottom loop.

Pegs 8-4: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10.  Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.

Peg 6: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted).  Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.

Peg 5: Purl the stitch on peg 3 and move to peg 5.

Peg 4: Purl the top loop on peg 2 and move to peg 4.

Peg 3: Purl the bottom loop on peg 2 and move to peg 3.

Peg 2: Purl the top loop on peg 1 and move to peg 2.

Peg 1: purl. Remove any extra slack from stitches 1-5.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Row 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.

Row 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Pegs 11-7: knit.

                Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.

Pegs 5-1: knit.

Repeat from * to end of row.

Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 11):

Rounds 1-3: knit

Round 4: purl

Round 5: *[k1, yo] twice, k1, [double yo] 5 times, [k1, yo] twice, k1; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 1.)

Peg 2: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 2.)

Peg 3: knit

Pegs 4-8: EW peg twice, KO bottom loop over 2 wrapped loops.

Peg 9: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 9.)

Peg 10: knit, then wrap back around to front of peg in a clockwise direction. (There will now be 2 loops on peg 10.)

Peg 11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of round.

Round 6: *p5, wyib sl 5, p5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Peg 1: move the loop on the top temporarily to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 2: purl the top loop and move back to peg 1. Move the next loop temporarily to peg 3. Purl the bottom loop.

Peg 3: purl the top loop and move back to peg 2. Purl the bottom loop.

Pegs 4-8: beginning with peg 4 and working to peg 8, unwrap each double EW and place on a stitch holder/cable needle.

Move loop from peg 9 to peg 7. Move the top loop from peg 10 to peg 8. Move the bottom loop from peg 10 to peg 9. Move the top loop from peg 11 to peg 10.  Pull out any extra slack in stitches just moved.

Peg 9: Place the held loops one at a time, beginning with the loop on the far left onto peg 6 (make sure they are not twisted).  Carry WY behind all the sts on peg 6.

Pegs 7-11: purl

Repeat from * to end of round.

Round 7: *k5, wyib sl 5, k5; rep from * to end.

Round 8: *k5, k5tog, k5; rep from * to end.

Peg by Peg Breakdown:

*Pegs 1-5: knit.

                Peg 6: Lay WY on top of all loops on peg 6 and KO one at a time.

Pegs 7-11: knit.

Repeat from * to end of round.

Rep rows 1-8 for desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

2 Comments

  • Need a book on what stitches mean and how to do them

  • There are a ton of sources for learning all the stitches out there. :) Here is a link to the How-To section of KnittingBoard.com: http://www.knittingboard.com/loom-knitting-how-tos/ There is also a tab at this same site that contains video instructions as well. Another excellent source for beginning loom knitting is the book by Isela Phelps, Loom Knitting Primer, which can be found in some craft stores, as well as Amazon.

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Jul 23, 2017

Pavement Sunset Wall Art

If you are up until midnight browsing social media for the latest knit and crochet trends, you have probably noticed that knit wall art is now a “thing”! With this pattern, you can jump on board and create a stunning centerpiece for any room.

When you finish this pattern, don’t forget to share a picture with us on instagram @knittingboard using the hashtags #zippyloom, #knittingloom, and #knittingboard!

Loom: Zippy Master Set; 4 Zippy Looms (16 pegs).

Yarn: Knit Picks Tuff Puff (100 g per skein), Super Bulky #6, 100% wool, 44 yds.

  • Color A (Silver): 2 skeins (120 g/53 yds)
  • Color B (Orange): 2 skeins (120 g/53 yds)
  • Color C (Flamingo): 1 skein (25 g/33 yds)

(Note: Use different color combinations for different effects [favorite sports team, flag colors, etc])

Finished Size: 30” x 19” finished object, 34” x 23” pipe border

Abbreviations: u = U Stitch

Stitches: U Stitch: Bring yarn to the front of the peg, then wrap around the peg to the back of the loom, then hook over or work the peg.

Other Materials (optional):

½” copper pipe (found at your local hardware store), 2 pieces 34” long, 2 pieces 23” long

4 pieces of ½” copper pipe fittings 90 degree (found at your local hardware store)

1 spool stretch cord (normally used for jewelry)

Tools: Knit hook, large sewing needle

Instructions (for one panel):

Cast on 16 stitches.

Rows 1-14: 16u in color A

Rows 15-25: 16u in color B

Row 26: [1u in color B, 1u in color C] repeat 7 times

Row 27: [1u in color C, 1u in color B] repeat 7 times

Row 28: Repeat row 27

Row 29: Repeat row 26

Row 30-31: Repeat rows 26-27

Rows 32-36: 16u in color C

Bind off and sew in loose ends.

 

Create three panels using above pattern. Using a whipstitch, sew three panels together.

To create the optional frame, connect copper pipes using 90-degree copper pipe fittings.

Center finished object in the pipe frame and attach by weaving stretch cord around the pipe and through the finished object until firmly centered in pipe frame. Hang on your wall, and enjoy!

1 Comment

  • Why is by cast on so loose and my cast off so tight. Trying to make dish cloths, and they come out, loose on one end and tight on the other. What am I doing wrong. Start rolls also.

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Jul 20, 2017

Patriotic Picnic Blanket

This two person, soft and cozy, picnic blanket is perfect for any outdoor occasion. It’s a festive accent to get you in the picnic mood  ….double knit so you can use either side!

Loom: Zippy Master Set

Yarn: Knit Picks Mighty Stitch Super Bulky (44 yards per skein)
7 skeins of Serrano (308 yards), 10 skeins of White (440 yards)

Finished Size: 45″x 50″

Tools: Knit hook, crochet hook, large sewing needle

Notes: Pattern is made using two double knit loom configurations.
Both in double knit

Instructions: Make 13 stripes (7 in Serrano + 6 in White)

Configure Loom using 2 Zippys + 2 Straight Connectors (double knit)
– cast on using 4 sets of pegs (all 8 pegs)
– set anchor yarn to secure the stitches
– work 56 rows of stockinette stitch keep track to ensure exact length)
– bind off, weave in yarn tails
– finish off cast on edge

Make 2 in White (these will be the edge strips for blanket)
Configure Loom using 4 Zippys + 2 Straight Connectors (double knit)
– cast on using 8 sets of pegs (all 16 pegs)
– set anchor yarn to secure the stitches
– work 56 rows of stockinette stitch (keep track to ensure exact length)
– bind off, weave in yarn tails
– finish off cast on edge

Arrange strips and sew together using the mattress stitch

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Jul 17, 2017

Loom FAQs: What Is A Burn Test? Why Burn Yarn At All?

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have all been there.  Go to a thrift store or yard sale and find a stash of yarn being sold for dirt cheap.  Cannot pass it up because IT IS DIRT CHEAP.  And better yet, it’s clean and usable yarn.  Doesn’t have an odor or feel weird.  Appears to be clean and ready to use.  Might still wash it after the project is made though…

But one thing is missing.  The label.  On several of the skeins.  And since there is such a variety of different kinds of yarn in that stash, there is no way of being certain that is the same kind of yarn.  It feels or looks different from anything else you have.

Or you are not the lucky sort to find these kind of deals and just end up buy a bag of mill ends that is still a mystery even though you bought it at a retail store.

What is it?  What kind of fiber is this mystery yarn?  Will I be able to block it?  Can I use it as a gift for someone who is allergic to wool?  How can I find out what the fiber content of this wonderfully cheap mystery yarn actually is??

Well you are in luck.  There are ways to find out the fiber content of yarn.  And it’s fun too.  BY BURNING IT.  Why would I burn it?  Then I wouldn’t have it.  Well you don’t burn the entire thing.  Just a small piece.

Please note!!  Please take every precaution about using open flames in your home so that your entire stash doesn’t burn with the rest of the house.  I mean, we all love firefighters.  And calendars of shirtless firefighters.  Just don’t go and try to meet all from the firehouse all at once by accident…  And please do not use me as an excuse to your significant other as a reason there was a fire in your home or why you have burned your hand.  But Renita said you can burn the yarn to see what it’s made of!!  It’s her fault.  Just use some common sense before setting anything at all on fire.  Even a candle.

What is a burn test?

A burn test is a simple way to tell if the yarn is 1 of 3 fiber types, synthetic (acrylic, nylon, etc.), plant base (cotton, linen, bamboo, rayon, etc.), or animal (wool, silk, alpaca, angora, etc.)

Why can I not tell between different types of animal or plant?

Since all of each fiber types will burn the same, there isn’t a way to tell between the different animals or plants or man-made fibers.  While some people can tell between silk and wool, the way those burn will remain the same.

How do I do a burn test?

First you will need to take all safety precautions like mentioned earlier.  A bowl or sink full of water is a great way to start.  If you are more accident prone, go ahead and have that fire extinguisher out and ready that we are all to have already in our kitchens.  Never hurts to have that handy just in case.

Then you will need to cut off a piece of the yarn.  About 6″ to 12″ will suffice.  Want it long enough to see how it burns and how easy it is to put out.  But not too long or too short that you can lose control easily.

Then light one end of the yarn on fire using a match, lighter, or other open flame while holding it over the prepared water.  You may need to use the water to put the flame out if blowing on it like a candle doesn’t work.  Or the flame gets out of the control and you really need to just drop it.  That water is going to come in handy.  Just take my word for it…

Do NOT pinch the flame out with your fingers!!  If the yarn is synthetic, you are basically burning plastic and run the risk of the melted plastic adhering to your fingers.  Not something you want to happen.

What does it tell me when I do a burn test?

Below are the results of burning each fiber type.

Each type will have different results in how it smells, how it burns and if it extinguishes itself or must be extinguished by you, and the way it burns and whether it produces ash or not.

And yes.  I have conducted the burn test myself and have smelled each one.

Synthetic (acrylic, nylon, etc.)

– smells like burnt plastic

– the flame will burn fast and will continue to burn until it is extinguished by blowing it out or submerging it in water

– the burnt end will not turn to ash and will harden like melted plastic while turning black

Plant (cotton, linen, bamboo, rayon, etc.)

– smells like burnt linen which it should especially if it’s linen…, (I saw it described that way before and just had to include that sweet little nugget of information…) In other words, it has a “clean” smell when burnt

– the flame will continue to burn until it is extinguished and is easy to extinguish like a candle wick by blowing t out

– the burnt end turns to fine ash like burnt paper ash

Animal (wool, silk, alpaca, angora, etc.)

– smells like burnt hair

– flame will almost immediately die out on it’s own without the need to extinguish, if it doesn’t then it may be a blend

– leaves crisp, crunchy ash that is larger, may stick together until broken apart, and not fine like plant fiber

What if the yarn is a blend?

Usually the burn test will determine the highest of the fiber content used.  It may or may not burn differently depending on the content of each fiber when it’s a blend.  There is not a sure fire way to know what the percentage of each fiber is.  Did you see what I did there…  

If the yarn is plied with multiple strands, you may try separating the strands and conducting the burn test on each strand.  Sometimes with blends, the strands that are plied together are actually different fibers.  Most times though all the different fibers are carded together before they are spun.

One way to tell if it’s a blend is by looking closely at the colors in the strand.  If the strand of yarn has slightly different shades of the same color, it is most likely a blend of more than one fiber.  Different fibers take color dye differently causing a variation of color shade in the same strand of yarn.

Can I try it on something I know first?

A great way to know what it looks like and smells like when burnt is to do a burn test on yarn you already know the fiber content.  Trying to describe how it smells and looks is harder than it sounds, and everyone smells things differently.

 

While the burn test will not give the most definitive answers, it will narrow down the fiber type tremendously making it easier to know how to use, block, and clean the finished projects made with the mystery yarn.

For more answers regarding the yarn weight of the mystery yarn, please check out my previous article Loom FAQs:  What Is WPI And Yarn Weights?

Now you know basically what the yarn is and are ready to cast on your loom.  Well get going!  Happy loom knitting!!

1 Comment

  • i was wondering after i e wrap and i have too do a purl stich next do i cast on again too make 2 on the peg ?

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Jul 3, 2017

Stitchology 34: Double Andalusian Stitch

This month we feature a stitch with a rhythmic and almost calming repeating pattern of simple knits and purls. The Double Andalusian Stitch, sometimes called the Ridge Rib Stitch, is wonderfully versatile and can provide that perfect amount of interest to any project at hand.

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker lines are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches outside the border square are worked only once: at the end of the odd rows, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the even rows, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 3 stitches of the Repeat Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches outside the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 3, plus 1 extra stitch at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Rows 1 & 2: k all sts.

Row 3:  *k1, p2, rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 3):

Rounds 1 & 2: k all sts.

Round 3: *k1, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 4:  k all sts.

Repeat Rounds 1-4 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

11 Comments

  • I am asking about the sea coral cap. Crown I am confused

    I move stitch 1 to peg2 Do I knit off?

    Next part I do not understand If I am correct I have empty odd begs? I do not understand B/o the even pegs

    Thank you for your help

  • Hi Betty :) The best thing to do to get the original designer’s attention, and to help those that come along behind you reading the comments for questions they may have, is to place your comment at the bottom of the post that you are referring to. This just helps everyone in the long run and is more effective to reach your particular designer for answers. ;)

    Although I did not write the Sea Coral Cap pattern, I think I can answer your question…

    In the crown, it looks like Denice is having you do a less bulky gathered BO. The gathered BO is what is normally used to cinch in the top of a hat. She is just saying to first thread through all the odd pegs, tighten that a bit, then to thread back through all the even pegs. You will then remove the hat from the loom and cinch in the first pegs gathered all the way, then proceed with the 2nd group of pegs. You can close any resulting hole at the top by neatly stitching closed.

    I hope this helps!
    Bethany~

  • Sorry Betty I just now saw your comment. Thank you Bethany for answering. She is right. Its just to decrease half the peg count so when you run the yarn to gather it will be less bulky.

  • Bethany,
    I have been following your “Stitchology” square offereings since the beginning. I am a bit confused and hope for assistance. I know you have gone to a new format but I still wish to use the stitches to create a square (want to use all I have completed so far for a blanket). Have just started on the Stitchology 34 double andalusian stitch and am confused with the pattern. No mention is made of “Set Up Rows” as in the past. Usually they always were a few rows of knit, purl, knit to create a border around the square. If I want my squares to be pieced together into a blanket, should I start all squares as in the past and do the first few rows of knit, purl, knit to create a matching border (I would think they would be easier to join if all are alike). But, want to be sure as I have not looked at all the patterns yet and should no mention be made in the future patterns about these “Set Up Rows”, I would like to know how to continue with the pattern, or if added with they change the pattern? Thank you, Marilyn

  • Which gage works best for the double Andalusian stitch? Mine seems way to tight.

  • Hi Marilyn :) I’m so happy to hear you’ve been following along with us on the squares!

    Due to this new format and the extra time involved with creating the video, an entire pattern for the square will not be posted here. But currently, you can find all the charts for the 8″ x 8″ squares since the new format began (Feb 2017: Lacy Hearts) and yarn information at the Ravelry page for each stitch. You should be able to follow along with the chart to make the entire squares. http://www.ravelry.com/designers/bethany-a-dailey

    As for the Set Up Rows, even though the pattern will be written for the stitches specifically, rather than the entire square, there still may be some listed with certain stitches. It all depends on the stitch pattern itself. If there are rows that are required to “set up” the stitch, but are not included in the repeating pattern rows/stitches, there will be set up rows listed. If there are no rows needed to set up the stitch itself, as in this month’s feature, you won’t see the Set Up Row section. ;)

    I hope this will helps explain things a bit better. I’m so glad to know you’re knitting gorgeous stitches along with us and hope you’ll share the progress of your blanket with us at either our KB Facebook page, or through the stitch listings at Ravelry! :)
    Bethany~

  • Hi Char :) I don’t think the ply really matters…using the proper weight of yarn for your desired loom to achieve the proper gauge is what counts. You can create this stitch using any weight of yarn really, even the the super heavy weight that is popular now-a-days, as long as it works with your loom. For the loom featured in the video (KB Hat Loom) I am using worsted weight #4.

    The other thing that will impact the way the stitch is turning out is how much your are pulling on your working yarn as you knit. When I use the U-stitch as you can see in the video, I am making sure that the “u” shape that I’ve built into each stitch will not be disturbed when knitting the next peg in line. Sometimes I’ve seen knitters placing too much tension on their working yarn, so that the little bit of looseness that was created in the stitch before is accidentally pulled out when creating the next stitch, resulting in stitches that are too tight for the desired stitch pattern. Try to concentrate on not disturbing the stitches done before; only gently laying the working yarn across and behind the peg, then lifting that loop over with a simple little flip. Does that makes sense? If you still can’t get the tension you desire with the U-stitch, you might try using the traditional true knit stitch, or “reverse purl”, which tends to result in a stitch that is just a little bit looser.

    I hope this helps!
    Bethany~

  • can i use my afgan loom for it stitchology

  • Hi Opal :) I don’t see why you couldn’t use your afghan loom!

  • Thank you for your help. I am a newbie to loom knitting or any kind knitting.
    I am learning to make prayer shawls for church on a loom. Have mostly done double
    Knitting but trying to learn single knitting. I think you are right I pull to tight. Hope to try
    This stitch on the KB hat loom for a shawl . Not sure if it will be big enough for a shawl
    Though. Trial and error that’s me. The stitch looks pretty and I need easy. Knitting is
    Suppose to be fun and relaxing not stressful!
    Guess I will see what happens! Thanks. Char

  • Hi Char…I’m glad I could help! I think the hat loom when adjusted to its fullest settings would be fine for a rectangular shawl. I think this stitch would be very nice featured in a shawl…have fun with it! :D

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Jun 29, 2017

Elephant Baby Blanket (double knit)

Everyone loves the circus elephants. Now they are knit right into this thick, soft blanket for crib, or use as floor mat at playtime. Large enough to roll around on, 36” X 38” in soft Double Knit. Blanket is knit in two panels with colorful borders added all around.

 

Loom: All-n-One Loom set up for double knit with 1cm spacing

Yarn: Red Heart Essentials #5, 100% acrylic, machine wash and dry. 131 yds per skein. Colors: Greyhound, 8 skeins. Peony Pink and Teal, 2 skeins each. For a lighter Teal, use Turquoise. Scrap of black yarn for eyes

Stitches: Stockinette and Purl (as in single knit)

Notions: Knit hook, crochet hook, large sewing needle, graph of elephant for reference, or just use the written instructions. Optional: If you have (5) plastic sewing needles, they are great for holding the pieces in place for sewing.

Gauge: 3 stitches X 4 rows=1 inch

Size: Approx 36” long X 38” wide

Abbreviations: Approximately= aprox   St (sts)= stitch (stitches)   G=greyhound yarn  P=pink yarn   T=teal yarn   L=left   R=right

TECHNIQUES  

Basic Bind Off

1.  Work from end opposite the yarn tail; use your crochet hook to lift off the first loop on the back peg.

2.  Pick up the first loop on the front peg. Pull the front loop on hook through back loop.

Then, repeat picking up next back peg, then front loop; pull 1 thru 1. Repeat process to the end of the loom. Secure final stitch by pulling yarn tail through last loop on hook. With crochet hook, pull yarn tail into finished knit. Finish off at anchor yarns with this basic or crochet bind off.

Purl Stitch as in Single Knit

This is used in top and bottom border, alternating with Stockinette stitch. After a row of Stockinette stitch is complete, start the Purl stitches on back loom where yarn is connected. Work around, R to L, on each peg, working the purl stitches. You will end at beginning of loom, ready for next row of Stockinette.

1. Place the working yarn in front of the peg, below the loop on the peg. Insert the knit hook thru the loop on the peg from the top down.

2. Reach down to catch the working yarn with the knit hook. Pull the working yarn up through the loop on the peg, forming a new loop.

3. Hold the new loop on your hook. Then pull the loop that is still on the peg up and off the peg.

4. Place the new loop onto the peg. Gently tug on the working yarn to tighten the stitch.

Sewing together…

Start with the 2 pieces that are being sewn, lined up, so you can see the top of edge of each piece. Insert the sewing needle into the edge of one piece. Pick up the cross stitch in center of edge of knit. Pull the needle out and pick up the same cross stitch on other piece of knit

(border and panel). Work along both edges, continuing to pick up the cross yarn and alternating between the pieces. Draw the yarn snug as you move down the edges of the knit. This will pull the edges together without showing the sewing yarn. You do not want to sew the edge stitches, only pull them together for the invisible joining.

Instructions

Main panel: Cast on in Stockinette stitch for (48) sts in (P) yarn.  Lay an anchor yarn.

Row 1: Knit in Stockinette

Row 2: Purl as in single knit. This means to work around the entire loom on all (96) pegs doing single-knit Purl sts.

Repeat rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows).   Cut yarn with 3” tail.

Tie on (T) yarn and work rows 1 and 2, for a total of 3 times. (6 rows).

This completes the 2- color border on bottom of panel. Cut (T) yarn and tie on (G) yarn.

Work 12 rows in Stockinette st.

Working the Design:  (See blog entry for full instructions on color change.)

 Design (use graph above for guidance, or just follow row instructions):

Row 13:  Weave 14 sts in stockinette in (G). At peg 15, tie on (T) yarn. Lay (G) yarn aside and do not cut. Work 3 sts in (T) yarn, and drag yarn across the next 4 sts. Wrap the next 3 leg stitches and return the circular, carrying across the (G) sts. to cover all sides of the (P) sts, and lay aside. Hook over the (P) stitches. Pick up (G) and wrap all remaining pegs with full circular. Continue the row with (G) yarn on last 24 sts. When you work the return, carry the (G) yarn across the (T) sts. Do not cut either yarn.  (See process below.)

Tie on (T) yarn in center between rows of pegs.  Wrap the number of pegs needed. 

 

Take yarn across the (G) area to next (T) pegs, wrap number of pegs needed.

Pick up (G) yarn and wrap all pegs that are not covered with (T) yarn.

Wrap empty pegs maintaining the Stockinette wrap.  All pegs should be covered for this row. Hook over.

Row 14-15: Repeat row 1.

Row 16-17: Work 13 sts in Stockinette with (G) yarn. Work (P) yarn on next 4 sts , skip next 4 stitches, and wrap the next 3 leg stitches, and return, and hook over. Complete the row with the (G) yarn and hook over all (G) pegs.

Row 18: There will be 3 sections of pink in this row, because you will be starting the elephant’s trunk. Work the (P) sts, and then the (G) sts.

(G) 13 sts, (P)4 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 5 sts,(G) last 14 sts. Hook over all.

Starting with row 19, the pink will be dominant section. So start next rows with gray section and cut yarn at beginning of pink section. Tie on (P) and work section. Tie on new (G) yarn, once done with body of elephant. You will not have the (G) yarn going thru the (P) sts. Therefore, you will need to twist the 2 yarns at beginning of each section, so the sections will be continuous.

Row 19: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 11 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 7 sts, (G) 13 sts.

Row 20: This row will have 2 sections of (P) yarn. (G) 13 sts, (P) 12 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 12 sts.

Row 21: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 11

Row 22: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 2 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 2 sts, (G) 11

Row 23: (G) 9 sts, (P) 1 st, (G)1 st, , (P) 21 sts, (G) 3 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 10

Row 24: (G) 9sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 1 st, (P) 21 sts, (G) 4 sts, (P) 1 st, (G) 11

Row 25: (G) 9 sts, (P) 23 sts, (G) 16 sts

Row 26: Repeat row 25.

Row 27: (G) 10 sts, (P) 22 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 28: (G) 11 sts, (P) 21 sts, (G) 16 sts.

Row 29: (G) 12 sts, (P) 19 sts, (G) 17 sts.

Row 30: (G) 12 sts, (P) 18 sts, (G) 18 sts.

Row 31: (G) 13 sts, (P) 9 sts, (G) 2 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 19 sts.

Row 32: (G) 15 sts, (P) 5 sts, (G) 5 sts, (P) 3 sts, (G) 20 sts.

Cut and tie all (P) yarns together. Make sure the (G) yarn is ready to continue at beginning of row 33.

Continue in Stockinette stitch with (G) yarn for 116 rows, unless you want a smaller blanket.

Top Border of blanket

Work these border rows just as you did the bottom border, only start with the (T) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Tie off (T) yarn; add (P) yarn. Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times. (6 rows)

Work the basic bind off to remove from loom. Bind off at anchor yarn so that the edges match on both ends.

You will want to add some black yarn for the elephant’s eye, but this can be done later.

Panel 2  (Working the 2nd panel with the (T) Teal Elephant.)

Repeat all instructions for 2nd panel as for 1st panel, only substitute the (T) yarn for the (P) when working the Elephant design.

Borders of stripes are sewn into the blanket in center between the 2 panels, and down each side to give the blanket a wider size and more color.

Border strips (Knit 3)

Cast on 10 sts in Stockinette with (P) yarn. Lay anchor yarn.

Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Tie on the (T) yarn. Work (6) rows as in the Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

Note: There is no need to cut and tie at all the color changes as the yarn can be carried thru the knit and not show. So lay the (P) yarn aside and carry thru between pegs 2 and 3 as you work the next (T) rows.

All stripes will be worked with Stockinette from this point to top border.

Work (6) rows in Stockinette with (P) yarn.

Work (8) rows in Stockinette with (T) yarn.

Continue working, alternating the colors with (8) rows each. Work a total of (9) sections with (T) yarn. Finish the border with one section of (6) rows in (P) yarn. Then work the (T) and (P) sections again as in Main Panel, rows 1 and 2.

The entire border is (12) sections of (P), and (11) sections of (T).

Once complete, bind off with basic bind off. Your border is a total of 172 rows, which matches the center panels.

Work (2) additional border strips.

Finishing and Sewing your Blanket

Be sure to give each elephant an eye. You can use the scrape of black yarn and sewing needle. Wrap thru to both sides on one stitch, and just tuck the yarn tails into the knit.

Lay the blanket out on bed or floor with the (3) borders in place. When sewing, be sure that the Purl stripes match across the top and bottom of the blanket. You may want to put a few plastic pins in each section before sewing to keep lined up.

Use invisible stitch to sew the sections together. Knot securely at each edge of a seam.

Blocking is not required, but may be done around the elephant designs to give them the best shape.

Your blanket is complete. You have a wonderful play pad for your little one. If a thinner blanket is desired, substitute the #5 yarn for a #4 worsted weight. Total size will be a bit smaller, but the designs will look just as nice.

1 Comment

  • This is so cute! I adore it! <3

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Jun 19, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Work Beads Into My Projects

 

 

 

 

 

After people get the hang of loom knitting beanies and scarves, the desire to expand their knowledge of different techniques grows.  In social media, I see questions for all sorts of things.  Among them are How do I knit with beads?  Do I need to string the beads first?  Can I add beads as I go?

Different people have different methods for attaching beads to their loom knit projects.  Today I will demonstrate 3 different ways to attach beads.  Other people may have other methods.

Let’s start with beads and go from there!

What kind of beads do I need to use?

You can use any kind of bead that you can fit your yarn though.  Most people I have seen in loom knitting tend to use pony beads.  Those are the larger plastic beads found in the kids crafts that have really large holes.  But you are not limited to those alone.  While you will need to use beads with larger holes on thicker yarn, you might actually be surprised what beads you can use when I show you how I thread them onto the yarn.

Do I need to use a beading needle to thread the beads on the yarn?  

I have made jewelry for years now.  I have used all sorts of beading needles.  One of my favorites is the needle that is made of twisted wire with an eye that will collapse shut after being threaded.  Very inexpensive to buy.  But not always the best when threading yarn through beads.  And as for the tapestry needles used to weave in the ends, those are always too big for beads unless you are using pony beads.

What do I use then if not a beading needle?

Dental floss.  WHAT??  Yes.  I like to use dental floss to thread my beads on the yarn.  I would like to mention that I use dental floss straight from the container that is unused…  I am all for recycling, but reusing dental floss is a bit much for me.

What kind of dental floss?

I prefer using the unflavored waxed dental floss.  No need to have mint flavored yarn.  And the dye they use on the flavored floss might stain the yarn.  Not sure.  But don’t want to chance it.

I like waxed because it makes it easier for ends of the floss to stick together and go through the hole of the bead.

What if I only have unwaxed floss?

You can use unwaxed if you have some beeswax or beading thread conditioner that you can coat the ends of the floss.  But if you have the thread conditioner, you might happen to have beading thread which you can use in the place of the floss.  Like using the floss because it’s a bit easier to work with.  Especially if it’s waxed.

But waxed dental floss is very inexpensive and therefore not a struggle to afford.

How do I add the beads?  Before or as I go?   Do both methods look the same?  Or different?

The way the beads look on the finished piece will definitely vary with the way the beads are added.  Let’s talk about each way and see how the beads look when the work is finished.

Adding Beads Before Starting

The easiest way would be to string all the beads you will need before starting to knit.

You will need to make sure you have enough or more than you will need.  If not, you will need to cut the yarn, add more beads, and join the new yarn leaving you will extra ends to weave in later.

Also if you are using more than 1 color bead and are wanting to create a pattern with the color, you will need to make sure they are strung on the yarn in the order that you will need them so that the first one you will need will be last one you will string onto the yarn and the last you will will need will be the first you will string onto the yarn.

How to thread the beads on the yarn

 

 

First remove a piece of floss from the spool about 10″ to 12″ long so that when folded in half you have about 6″ of floss to work with.

 

 

 

 

 

Run the 2 ends of the floss between your fingers so they will stick together.

Thread the end of the floss through the bead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gently pull the yarn through the bead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue stringing the beads onto the yarn until all the beads you will need are on the working yarn.  As I have mentioned already, having more than you need is always better than not having enough.  Just keep the beads pushed down the yarn.

If the end of the floss starts to fray, just trim it or replace with a new piece.

 

 

 

Start your knitting with the end of the yarn.  Keep pushing the beads on down the yarn until you need them.

 

 

 

When you are ready to use a bead, put it in between the 2 pegs where you want it to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Work the next stitch leaving the bead between the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This method is great when you want to place a bead between every stitch.

 

 

 

 

With this method, you need to remember that the yarn will run through the hole of the bead horizontally with only 1 strand of yarn through the bead.

 

 

 

If you are using all knits, the beads will try to hide behind the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beads will be more prominent when worked with purls stitches on either side of the bead instead of knits.

It’s good to keep that in mind when adding beads to your work.

 

 

 

Adding Beads As You Go

This method is great when you don’t really know how many beads you will need because you are just winging it by placing beads randomly or just don’t want to count them out.  No judgement on that last one…  Nope.  Been there.  Done that.

First thing to remember about both of these methods is that when beads are added as you go, the stitch itself will run through the bead vertically with both strands of the stitch, not horizontally with only 1 strand like the previous method.

Method 1

 

 

When adding a bead onto the stitch, you will need to first draw up the the new stitch like working a true knit stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completely remove the old stitch from the peg and run the dental floss through the new loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

String the bead onto the floss and then onto the loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tighten up the loop after getting the bead down behind the peg and place the loop onto the peg itself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bead is now on the peg with the new stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This method will leave a “hole” on each side of the bead since the stitch itself is sort of cinched through the hole of the bead.

Therefore, I would not recommend using this method on every stitch.  But at least skipping a stitch between each bead.

 

 

 

 

Method 2

 

 

With the second method of adding beads as you go, draw up a new stitch but unlike Method 1 do not remove the stitch from the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As before, run the floss through the loop and run the bead onto the loop.

But this time the bead will be in front of the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the new loop onto the peg after tightening up the loop so there is not any slack.

Remember to not take the old loop off the peg so that there are 2 loops on the peg with the bead in front of the peg.

Continue with the rest of the row.

 

 

 

 

 

On the next row when the peg with the bead is ready to be worked,  PURL that stitch so the the bead will be to the front of the work.

If you knit the stitch, the bead will be at the back of the work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There may be a tiny gap at the top and bottom of the bead, but with this method the bead will sit nicely in front of the fabric.

 

 

 

Like I said before, different people have different ways to add beads to embellish their knits.  I hope any of these ways will help when you decide to use beads with your loom knitting projects as well.

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Jun 10, 2017

Men’s Vest

 

Knit with a simple stitch, this vest is the perfect way to begin loom knitting garments. Worn over a dress shirt with a tie lending a bit of warmth and style.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom with 20-peg extenders

YARN:  Approx 770 yds of worsted weight yarn. Caron Simply Soft in Navy color 570(600, 630) yds, and Gray color 120 (130, 140 yds) was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 6 stitch markers to mark the shoulders and back of neck, stitch holder.

GAUGE: 20 sts x 32 rows=4 inches

SIZE:  S (M, L) Sample shown in Small. Meant to fit loosely.

ABBREVIATIONS

k=knit

p=purl

st(s)=stitch(es)

k1f&b=knit one front and back (an increase)

rem=remain

MC=Main color (Gray)

CC=Contrasting color (Navy)

Approx=Approximately

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 118) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-Row 20: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Cut CC, join MC.

Row 21: Move last loop over one peg to leave one peg open (move loop from peg 100 to peg 101; from peg 110 to peg 111; from peg 118 to peg 119). K1f&b,k to end of row.  (101, 111,119 sts)

Row 22: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Continue working in knit stitch until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, as you will need to match the front with the same number of rows.

Bind off the neckline using basic bind off method— 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches, 35 (39, 39) sts for back of next stitches, and 27 (30, 33) sts for shoulder stitches.

Tip: You can mark them with stitch markers, as you will need to line up the front shoulders to the back for seaming.

FRONT

Follow instructions as for Back from Row 1-Row 21.

Row 22: *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 23: k to end of row.

Rep Row 22-23 until panel measures approx 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the back.  

Underarm Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows while maintaining the stitch pattern.

(Example for Large Size: First row: bind off first 6 sts of the row, k1, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. (113 sts rem).

Next row:  bind off first 6 sts of row, k to end. (107 sts rem).

**Next row: k1, p1, *k3,p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

 Next row: k to end of row.**

Rep from ** to ** until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Tip: recommend to keep track of the number of rows, to match the Back.

Work as for Back, including all shaping. When piece measures 14.5 (15.5, 16.5) inches, (at the point of the shoulder shaping), begin the neck shaping too.

Begin Neck Shaping

Work to center st in established stitch pattern, remove center stitch and place it on a stitch holder.  Attach another ball of yarn on next stitch and complete row (using the new ball of yarn). Work both sides at once.

Decreasing 1 st at each neck edge every 2nd  row, 9x (6x, 3x), then every 4th row 8x (13x, 17x).

Continue in established stitch pattern until piece measures 24.5 (25.5, 26.5) inches.

Bind off using basic bind off method.

Block pieces lightly before assembly.

ASSEMBLY

Join side seams using mattress stitch.

Weave in all ends.

Seam each shoulder 27 (30,33) sts of front to 27 (30, 33) sts of back.

Armhole Edging
(make 2)

Using CC, cast on 100 (110, 120) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Seam Armhole Edging to each armhole opening using mattress stitch.

Neck Edging

Using CC, cast on 112 (120, 148) sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-3: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Locate the center stitch of the neckline opening, remove stitch from stitch holder, and pass the tapestry needle through it and begin mattress stitch seaming the Neck Edging at that point all the way around.

Weave all ends in. Block lightly.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

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Jun 5, 2017

Stitchology 33: Encased Ribbing

This is a wonderful stitch that, like last month’s choice, creates an amazingly plush and reversible fabric.  Feel free to use this for pretty much any type of project, as it is beautiful when viewed on either side. Another terrific thing about this stitch is that it is absolutely perfect for summer knitting, as its only two pattern rows are so easy to remember and work on the go!

We have changed the format just a little bit for our Stitchology Column.  Each of the featured stitches will be explained row by row via both written and video instructions.  We will be focusing on highlighting the repeating stitch pattern itself, so that you can enjoy the freedom of putting these new stitch patterns to use in your own projects as creativity strikes.  We hope you will enjoy this new way of learning new stitches with us! :)

Find all the previous Stitchology Columns at this link here.

Special Stitch Instructions

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

(SWYF) x2 directly translates to: Slip With Working Yarn in Front 2 times. This simply means that the next 2 pegs will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg. Repeat for the next peg in line.

*Note: another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Chart for Repeating Pattern Rows

 

*Note: The stitches in the chart that are bordered with darker squares are the Repeating Pattern Rows/Stitches.

When working a Flat Panel, the stitches after the border square are worked only once: at the end of the first row, after all the repeats of the Repeating Pattern Rows are completed and at the beginning of the 2nd row, before the Repeating Pattern Rows are worked and repeated.

When working in the Round, only repeat the 4 stitches of the Repeat Pattern Rows within the border…the stitches after the border squares are not worked at all.  Make sure to simply read each row from right to left and work in a clockwise direction.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows for working as a flat panel (Cast on from left to right/counter clockwise a number divisible by 4, plus 2 extra stitches at the end. Begin 1st Row from right to left/clockwise):

Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2:  (SWYF) x2, *p2, (SWYF) x2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until desired length.

 

Repeating Pattern for working in the round (Begin from right to left/clockwise, cast on a number divisible by 4):

Round 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Round 2: *(SWYF) x2, p2, rep from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until desired length.

 

Have questions or comments?  Please feel free to leave a message for Bethany in the comments below.

3 Comments

  • The notes on the entire square that is pictured above, are listed at the Ravelry project listing for this stitch here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/encased-ribbing-stitchology-33 :)

  • I was wondering if there is a way to make adults hats on the adjustable sock loom sock loom?

  • Hi Dawn :)

    Sure, there is always a way to do what you want. The trick is figuring out the way to get it done, haha! ;) In this case, the whole idea hinges on the number of pegs available and the gauge of the loom itself. If you are talking about the Sock Loom 2: http://www.knittingboard.com/sock-loom-2/ , there are 54 pegs with a gauge of 3/8″ center to center of pegs, which works beautifully with worsted weight yarn. This may not be enough pegs to make an adult hat the traditional way, but you could always make them in panels, stitch them together and gather the top. You could also try to loosely ewrap the pegs for the main stitch, or use a very loose stitch pattern, such as the Figure 8 stitch…this would serve to make the overall circumference wider to help accommodate an adult sized head. Now if you were talking the All-n-One Loom, which has the same gauge a the Sock Loom 2, then there would absolutely be no trouble using any kind of stitch you desire to make an adult hat.

    The best way to determine if this will work for you on a loom with fewer pegs is to work a swatch of about 4″ by 4″ in your desired stitch and see how many pegs (& rows) it takes to equal that 4″. Take that total peg count and divide it by 4, which gives you your stitch count per inch. Then multiply this number by the inches needed for your hat and you will end up with the number of pegs needed to make that work.

    So: Make a 4″ x 4″ swatch. Total # of stitches ÷ 4 = stitches per inch. Stitches per inch x head circumference in inches = total number of pegs needed. :)

    Hope that helps!
    Bethany~

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May 29, 2017

Elegant Long Stem Roses

Roses are the go-to gift for all occasions.  But some people have allergies that prevent them from enjoying real roses, and roses never last very long for the amount of money they cost.  Why not make a bouquet that will last more than one lifetime?

With medium level skills of short row knits and construction of multiple pieces, a work of art can be created in very little time but will last forever and won’t make anyone sneeze.  Why not knit a dozen in your favorite color for a stunning display!

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG

YARN:  70 yds of dk/3 weight 50% cotton/50% acrylic yarn for each rose, 50 yds of rose color & 20 yds of green.  Cascade Yarns Sunseeker Shade in colors 09 (red), 05 (baby pink), 06 (white), and 26 (green) used in samples.

NOTIONS:  knitting tool, tapestry needle, 16 gauge galvanized steel wire cut 10″ long for each rose

GAUGE: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2” in garter stitch

SIZE:  12 “ from top of petal to bottom of stem

 ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

S=slip (skip)

P2tog=purl 2 together – move the stitch from the end peg to the next peg and purl both stitches as one

CDD=central double decrease – move the 2 outside loops to the middle peg and purl all 3 stitches as one

W&T=wrap & turn – lift the stitch off the peg, wrap the working yarn around the peg by bringing it from behind and around to the front, place loop back on peg.

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

r=row

Rem=remain

Rep=repeat

Approx=approximately

CA=petal color (red, pink, or white)

CB=calyx and stem (green)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Petals – Make 6

Using CA and leaving a tail approx. 6” long for seaming, CO 8 pegs.  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all 8 pegs

R2:  S1, k next 7 pegs

R3:  K pegs 1-6, W&T peg 7

R4:  K pegs 6-1

R5:  K pegs 1-4, W&T peg 5

R6:  K pegs 4-1

R7:  K pegs 1-2, W&T peg 3

R8:  K pegs 2-1

Rep R1-8, 9 more times

Next row:  K all 8 pegs

BO using basic BO method.

Using the long tail from the cast on, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches and gather the center by pulling it close. Then still using the tail from the CO, work the mattress stitch seaming the CO edge to the BO edge.  (See Picture Details of Petals after Assembly below for more details.)

Weave in the tail used for seaming while leaving the BO tail for assembly.

 

Calyx (Leaves beneath Petals)

Using CB, CO 35 pegs using the Gathered CO Method (see instructions after Assembly below).  Prepare to work in a flat panel.

R1:  K all

R2:  P all

R3 – 6:  rep R1-2, twice

Now begin working a flat panel over 7 pegs to create the connected leaves.

*R1:  K7 – 7 pegs

R2:  P2tog, P3, P2tog – 5 pegs

R3:  K5

R4:  P5

R5:  K5

R6:  P2tog, P1, P2tog – 3 pegs

R7:  K3

R8:  P3

R9:  K3

R10:  CCD – 1 peg

Cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

BO by pulling the tail through the final stitch.

Join working yarn on the next unworked peg.

Rep from * until 5 leaves are made using all unworked pegs.

Seam the 2 sides together (do NOT use the CO tail to seam the sides together).  Weave in ends except for the CO tail.

Gather the CO edge to prepare attaching calyx to stem.  (See Picture Details of Calyx after Assembly below for more details.)

 

Stem

Using 2 strands of CB together as one, CO 2 pegs.

*K peg 1 then knit peg 2.

Holding the wire behind the pegs (see Picture Details of Stem after Assembly below), bring the working yarn behind the wire back to peg 1.

Rep from * until all of the wire is covered by the i-cord except for 1″ at the top.

Note:  Remember to keep these stitches loose since using 2 strands make the stitches tighter than usual.

BO and cut working yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

 

Assembly

Joining Petals Together Creating Rose Bud

 

 

Center the seam at the bottom of the petal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over one side of the petal keeping the seam centered at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold over the other side so that the bottom of the petal is closed together and top is open.

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the bottom of the petal together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew the overlapping petal no higher than halfway up.

Weave in the end before continuing with the next petal.

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap the next petal around the first keeping the seam at the bottom of the petals.

Sew the edges to the petal beneath and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue adding petals in the same manner alternating direction they are wrapped around the previous petals until all 6 are sewn together.

 

 

 

 

 

Bud is finished and ready to be joined to the Calyx and Stem.

 

 

 

 

 

Joining Calyx to Stem

 

Using one of the strands of yarn from the tail of the stem, sew the gathered center of the calyx to the top of the stem.

Make sure the wire is though the center of the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue sewing the top of the stem to the gather center of the calyx.

The center will continue to gather as each stitch joins the stem since the center will not gather down to the size of the stem.

 

 

 

 

Use the tail from gather the calyx to sew the calyx to the rose bud.

Weave in the ends from the stem after the calyx is sewn to the top of the stem.

The wire should protrude 1″.

 

 

 

 

 

Whip stitch the bottom of the stem with the tail so the bottom of the wire will not protrude from the bottom before running the tail up inside the stem with the wire..

 

 

 

 

Joining Rose Bud to Calyx and Stem

 

 

Insert the wire into the bottom of the rose bud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the tail from gathering the center of the calyx, sew the bottom edge of the petals to the calyx.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 After sewing the bottom edges to the calyx, sew around again up to the the part of the calyx where the  leaves start.

 

 

 

 

Gathered Cast On Instructions

 

 

 Place slip knot on “anchor” peg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run working yarn in front of peg 1.  Then behind peg 2.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of the odd numbered pegs and behind the even number pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

Ending with the working yarn in front of peg 35.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind peg 35 and back around in front of the next 2 pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit the bottom loop over the top on the peg with 2 loops.  Continue with every 2 pegs until peg 1 has been knitted.  Now all pegs should have a stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Start row 1 as instructed.  Leave the slip knot on the anchor peg until the first row has been worked.

 

 

 

Picture Details of Petals

 

 

Before seaming and gather center.

Back of work when on the loom but front when when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

Front of work when on the loom but back when assembling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a tapestry needle, run the tail in and out of the edge stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue around the center until on the other side of the center.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gather the center and use tail to seam the cast on and bind off edges with the mattress stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petal finished and ready to assemble.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Calyx

 

 

 For first leaf, knit the first 7 pegs.  Then move the stitch on peg 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the stitch from peg 7 onto peg 6.  Purl both loops as one and then purl pegs 5, 4, and 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And place it onto peg 2.  Purl both loops as 1.

Then continue with written instructions  until you have only 3 stitches remaining.

 

 

 

 

Now to work the CDD.

Remove the stitch from peg 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the stitch from peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place it on peg 2 so that 3 loops are on 1 peg.

Purl all 3 loops together as one.

 

 

 

 

 

Bind off by pulling the working yarn up through the remaining stitch as if working a purl stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But unlike a purl, continue to pull the tail through the loop and remove the stitch off the peg.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the tail until the loop closes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A look at the first leaf finished with the remaining stitches are still on the loom.

 

 

 

 

 

Join the working yarn on the first stitch of the unworked stitches by simply placing the yarn around the peg.

While a slip knot can be used here, this method will eliminate knots in the work.

 

 

 

 

Knit as normal and continue.

Snug up the tail as needed if the stitch becomes loose.

Then weave in the tail later.

 

 

 

 

 

How the calyx looks before weaving in the ends and seaming the sides together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calyx seamed and gathered with tail for sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

Picture Details of Stem

 

 

First 2 stitches of knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hold wire behind the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring the working yarn behind the wire and back around in front of peg 1 to knit pegs 1 and 2 again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue until 1″ of wire is left uncovered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern written and designed by Renita Harvey.

 

 

 

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May 21, 2017

Sunshine Shawl

I have always wanted a larger scale of the Inara Scarf and after many years, that dream has become a reality. Featuring the drop stitch with different lengths of elongated stitches, the shawl is perfect for those brisk morning or evening walks. The Sunshine Shawl has a diamond design worked with yarn overs on a background of garter stitch. The background of garter stitch makes the design pop even more. A yarn with wool (or natural fiber) content is recommended as the shawl needs to be blocked to show the stitches at its best!

Enjoy!

MATERIALS

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Loom (or any other of the KB looms with at least 99 pegs–can use the Afghan Loom, the 28″ Knitting Loom, or even (2) Hat Looms assembled together).

Yarn:  Approx 800 yds of worsted weight merino wool. Knit Picks Preciosa in Canary was used in sample; 3 skeins.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers/peg markers

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows=4 inches

Size: Approx 23 inches wide x 72 inches long

ABBREVIATIONS

K=knit Knit Stitch or Flat Stitch will work

P=purl

Yo=yarn over e-wrap the peg in a clockwise direction

Drp=Drop yarn over–Take the yarn overs off the peg

Sl=Slip stitch Skip the peg with yarn in back of work

Diamond Stitch Design

Use the instructions below when enlarging the pattern for a bigger item, such as a shawl.

Multiple of 6 + 1

Row 1: *k2, yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3, e-wrap peg 3 twice

Knit peg 4, e-wrap peg 4 twice

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last stitch

Row 2: p1, *p1, drp1, p1, drp2, p1, drp2, p1, drp1, p1, p2; rep from * to end of row

Purl peg 1

*Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 4

Purl peg 4

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 5

Purl peg 5

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Purl peg 7; rep from * to the end of row

Row 3: *k1, yo2, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo2; rep from * to last stitch, k1

*Knit peg 1, e-wrap peg 1 twice

Knit peg 2, e-wrap peg 2 once

Knit peg 3

Knit peg 4

Knit peg 5, e-wrap peg 5 once

Knit peg 6, e-wrap peg 6 twice; repeat from * to last stitch, knit last

stitch

Row 4: p1, *drp2, p1, drop1, p3, drp1, p1, drp2, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Purl peg 1

*Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 2

Purl peg 2

Drop 1 yarn over on peg 3

Purl peg 3

Purl peg 4

Purl peg 5

Drop yarn over on peg 6

Purl peg 6

Drop 2 yarn overs on peg 7

Purl peg 7

Pattern Notes

Pattern is worked in a clockwise direction around the loom–You will be knitting a flat panel, the first row will be from right to left. Peg 1 will be at the far right and the last peg at the far left. The second row will start at the far left and end at the far right: Peg 1 will be at far left and the last peg at the far right.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 99 stitches, prepare to work a flat panel.

(Place peg marker on peg 1 and peg 99. Peg 1 and peg 99 are selvage stitches, the stitches in between are pattern repetitions, if you want to make a wider item, simply work more of these repetitions.)

Garter Stitch Edging

Row 1, 3, 5: Sl1, p to last st, k1

Row 2, 4, 6: Sl1, k to end

Row 7: Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 8: Sl1, p1, *p1, drp1yo, p1, drop2yo, p1, drp2yo, p1, drp1, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Row 9: Sl1, *k1, yo twice, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last two stitches, k2

Row 10: Sl1, p1, *drp2yo, p1, drp1yo, p3, drp1yo, p1, drp2yo, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Rep Rows 7-10 until item measures 74 inches from cast on edge.

Rep Rows 1-6. 

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave all ends in. Steam block to measurements to open up the design.

4 Comments

  • Will there be a video of this stitch? :)

  • As of right now, there are no plans for a video. The stitch breakdown is included and it is a fairly easy process.

  • What Cast On did you use? Is there one that will match the basic bind off? It’s absolutely a beautiful pattern! I can’t wait to make it!

  • It used the ewrap cast on and it was tightened after the item was completed.

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May 15, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Bind Off In Pattern? Or Beyond The Basic Bind Off…

 

 

 

 

 

 

What does “bind off in pattern” mean?  This is actually a question I haven’t seen in loom knitting at all.  But having seen “bind off in pattern” in needle knitting has really got me to thinking about binding off and different methods to bind off.

The most common bind off in loom knitting is the basic bind off.  This bind off is a great bind off for keeping the tension loose as you work the bind off instead of having to remember to work the previous row looser than normal.  But it does add an extra row of knit at the end.

This has prompted me to expand the basic bind off method to include purl stitch so the last row of purl can be the bind off when working garter stitch or even being able to use the basic bind off on ribbing or other stitch patterns  that isn’t all knits.  Which is where “bind off in pattern” comes into play.

Now let’s revisit the Basic Bind Off and then discuss how to bind off in pattern.  And then we will discuss how to make the Basic Bind Off more stretchy by adding a chain stitch between the bind off stitches without using a crochet hook.

 

Basic Bind Off – Original with Knit Stitch

Chain edge of the Basic Bind Off

 

The Basic Bind Off is always worked with the working yarn and gives a nice chain edge that matches the Chain Cast On.  And also matches the side edges when using the slip stitch.  More on using the slip stitch to create a nice chain edge in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip? That is the Frequently Asked Question

 

 

 

 

Now let’s discuss how to work the Basic Bind Off using all knit stitches like we all know and love.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

 

 

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2:  Knit peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the Knit Row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off – In Pattern including Purl Stitch

What does bind off in pattern mean exactly?  It means that the stitches worked on the basic bind off match the stitches in the stitch pattern used.

Wait…  What????

Here is where the explanation gets a bit trickier, but I will do the best I can.

Say the project being worked on is in garter stitch.  And you want to bind off on the purl row instead of working the purl row then binding off with that extra row of knit.

You will then need to work the basic bind off but purl the stitches instead of knitting them.

 

Basic Bind Off with Garter Stitch ending on the purl row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are ending a project in rib stitch.  Then you would need to work each stitch on the bind off to match the rib stitch for that row.

 

Basic Bind Off using Rib Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic Bind Off with Rib Stitch while Stretched

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you are using the seed stitch.  You will need to work each stitch of the bind off to match the seed stitch for that row.

Those previous 3 examples are what it means to bind off in pattern.  Your bind off matches your stitch pattern.

Now let’s try to write it out without it getting too confusing.

The bind off is still worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will still call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Using the stitch that will keep the stitch pattern going for the row, work peg 1.

Step 2:  Then work peg 2 in the stitch pattern.

If it is garter and you are binding off on the purl row, then you will purl peg 1 and peg 2.  If it’s a 1×1 rib with the first stitch on the row being knit and the second stitch being purl, then you will knit peg 1 and purl peg 2.  Or whatever stitch pattern you are using.

Step 3:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 4:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 5:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 6:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.  Just remember that you will need to keep up with which peg needs a knit or a purl depending on what your stitch pattern is.

Repeat steps 2 – 6 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Basic Bind Off – Added Chain Stitch Between Bind Off Stitches

Sometimes it is hard to keep the tension loose enough so that the bind off is not too tight.  We all struggle with that.

What I always recommend is when working the bind off, make sure the stitch is very loose to the point you think it will be too loose.  But it is hard to keep all the stitches the same as you work them.

 

 

Here is a variation of the basic bind off where a chain stitch is added between each stitch giving the bind off edge more stretch.  And best part is a crochet hook is not need to work this bind off.

 

 

 

 

 

But this bind off will leave a little hole between each stitch because of the extra chain between the stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

Note:  I will use “knit” for the stitch to work each peg.  But purl stitch can also be used on any peg to bind off in pattern except when an e-wrap knit is used to make the extra chain.

The bind off is worked over 2 pegs at a time.  We will call them peg 1 and peg 2.

Step 1:  Knit peg 1.

 

 

Step 2:  E-wrap knit peg 1 again by bringing the working yarn behind peg 1 again and knitting over.  This is what creates the extra chain stitch.

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Knit peg 2.

Step 4:  Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Now there are 2 stitches on peg 1 and peg 2 is empty.

Step 5:  Lift the bottom loop on peg 1 over the top loop leaving only 1 stitch on peg 1.

Step 6:  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 7:  Now rename the pegs so that the first peg with a stitch is peg 1 and the next is peg 2.

Repeat steps 2 – 7 until only 1 peg has a stitch.  Cut the working yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in and pull the tail through the last stitch to remove it from the loom.

 

Now that the Basic Bind Off has been expanded to include more than just knit stitches, the bind off world is endless.  Just remember to keep in mind your tension so the bind off edge is not too tight.

Keep on loom knitting!

1 Comment

  • I was working on a rib pattern and I tried binding off in pattern using your excellent tutorial and it turned out fantastic. I hope this tutorial will be permanently stored in the “Learn” section of the web site. Actually there are many of these types of learning tutorials that would be easier for beginners to find if they were all stored in one place. Thank you for teaching us this nice techinque.

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May 8, 2017

Shawlette

 

We are delighted to bring to you a gorgeous shawlette designed by Denice Johnson. Grab your loom, yarn, and get started! 

Knitting loom: KB Hat Loom (84 peg configuration)

Yarn: Approx 380 yrds (190 g) of worsted weight yarn. Bernat Pop in Ebony and Ivory was used in sample.

Gauge: not important

Size: Ladies One Size (54″x 22″)

Abbreviations

K= ew knit

P= purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

WYIF= working yarn in front (do not wrap)

Inc1= increase 1

Dec1= decrease 1

Sk=slip stitch (skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg)

Lace Stitch: This lace stitch is worked over 2 pegs and repeated for row

(ewrap and knit peg 1, ewrap and knit peg 2, move stitch from peg 2 and place

above stitch on peg 1, knit bottom stitch over, place wyif of peg 2)

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Stitch patterns changes will occur with a new color section in the yarn.

Cast on 1 st (this is starter peg, the stitch on this peg will never be moved) prepare to work a flat panel

SECTION 1:

Row 1: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 2: sk1, p to end

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 1 until color changes on the yarn (end on peg 1)

SECTION 2:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 of section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 3:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: inc1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 4:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: inc1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 5:

Worked the same as section 1

Continue to increase on right side until you reach peg 83 (84)

Now you will decrease instead of increase

Continue section until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 6:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 7:

Row 1: k row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 3: sk1, p row

Row 4: dec1, k to peg 1

Row 5: sk1, k row

Row 6: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 3-6 for section 3 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 8:

Row 1: sk1, lace stitch to end (end on p1 or p2)

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 for section 2 until color change (end on peg 1)

SECTION 9:

Row 1 : sk1, p row

Row 2: dec1, k to peg 1

Repeat rows 1-2 until 1 st remains

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave end in. Steam block lightly

Have questions or comments, or simply want to thank the designer for sharing her pattern?  Please feel free to leave a message for Denice Johnson in the comments below. 

 

4 Comments

  • That’s gorgeous, Denice! Love it! :D

  • I love the pattern. I do have a question though. Is it possible to give us a row count for each section? I can’t get Bernat Pop in my area and would be doing this another yarn.
    Telling us how many rows for each section would make it easier to use this pattern.

  • Hi Bev,
    To answer your question, there is no exact amount of rows for each section. Depending on what yarn you use (any worsted yarn can be used) will get your row amount based on the length of that color. You can even use solids and just do color changes.

  • I too am curious about the row count, as Bernat Pop isn’t available where I am either. Hope we hear back from you! It’s a lovely pattern, I can’t wait to try it out.

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