Sep 25, 2016

Picot-Boo Bonnet

zoeys-set
This sweet baby bonnet is the matching topper for the little pair of booties, Zoey’s Tootsies, released last year.  These were especially designed for my niece, with whom they share a namesake. The bit of picot edging and the contrast colored “peek-a-boo” back, along with the adorable ribbon tie, are what make this little bonnet an heirloom quality accessory!
Zoey’s Toesies: click here to access the coordinating booties pattern~

Items Needed:

Knitting loom: KB 18″ All-n-One Loom

Yarn:  approx. 1 skein each color of Cascade Yarns Fixation: Sock Weight, 100 yards, 98.3% Cotton/ 1.7% Elastic (sample in colors MC: #9907 & CC: Lemon).

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, 26″ length of ribbon or I-cord.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, 4mm crochet hook for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc.)

Gauge: 11 stitches and 24 rows= 2″.

Finished bonnet measures 5.5″ in height and depth, and 11″ around face edge.

Skills Needed: True Knit Stitch or U-stitch, Chain CO and/or Half Hitch CO, and Gather BO, Knit 2 Together.

zoey-in-the-picot-boo-bonnet

Little Baby Zoey! :)

Pattern Notes:

All knit stitches are either worked as a true knit stitch, or as a U-stitch.

The sample bonnet was knit using an elastic yarn, which makes the end result nice and smooshy.  The thing to be careful of is keeping just a little bit of tension on the yarn throughout the project. This gives the project that perfect amount of stretch…not too little and not too much.  BUT!  make sure to keep the tension consistent throughout the project for a smooth, even knitted fabric.

Abbreviations: 

CO: cast on

HHCO: half hitch cast on

CC: Contrast Color

MC: Main Color

K: knit stitch or U-stitch, as desired

S1: slip one, or skip one

KO: knit off

St(s): stitches

WY: working yarn

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.

BO: Bind off

 

Pattern Instructions:

Using your CC yarn, CO to 60 pegs to work as a flat panel. (Sample uses chain CO.)

Rows 1-9: S1, k59.

Row 10: K2tog every odd peg starting with peg 3 (Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3, move loop from peg 4 to peg 5, etc, all around loom. To work row, s1, carry WY behind each empty peg, k all pegs with 2 loops 2 over 1.).

Row 11:  S1, then carry yarn in front of each empty peg and k each peg with loops. All pegs will now be filled.

Rows 12-20: S1, k59.

Cut CC.  Pull CO sts back up onto all corresponding pegs. Knit extra loops 2 over 1 on next row.

Row 21:  Using MC, CO to 6 pegs before peg 1, k60, CO to 6 pegs after peg 60. There will now be 72 pegs with loops. (Sample uses chain CO, but HHCO could also be used.)

Rows 22-60: K72.  Cut MC.

Rows 61-66: Using CC k72.  Count down 6 sts (at the beginning of the CC rows) and pull sts back up onto all corresponding pegs and KO.

Rows 67-88: Continuing with CC, k72.

picot-boo-bonnet-back

Gather BO until there is a keyhole opening of 2.5″. Knot the two bottom edges together.

Pin a 26″ ribbon or knit I-cord for tying loosely around baby’s neck along the bottom edge. Fold under 1″ of bottom edge and stitch in place, making sure to not sew through ribbon/I-cord.

Weave in all ends, stretching the fabric as you go, so that the tails will stay hidden.  Trim close to work.

*To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post. :)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Delicious Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Digg Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Facebook Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Google+ Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on LinkedIn Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Pinterest Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on reddit Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on StumbleUpon Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Twitter Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Email Share 'Picot-Boo Bonnet' on Print Friendly
Sep 19, 2016

Loom FAQs: I Need to Crochet??

Loom FAQs

 

Crochet??  What??  I thought this was a loom knitting blog…  Fear not.  It is still a loom knitting blog.  And yes.  This is still a loom knitting article.

While I know that most people that loom knit do not know how to crochet, it has been brought to my attention recently that most loom knitters, especially beginners, find crochet borders on loom knit items as “deceptive” since it is a loom knit pattern.  And while these borders can be left off, it will not look like the picture.  Hmmm…  Never really thought if it as deceptive to have a crochet border on a loom knit project, but I can see where she was going with it.

Most loom knit patterns do not have anything crochet at all.  But occasionally there are.  And not everyone was a fortunate enough to have a grandmother to teach them to crochet like I was.

Of course, this would be the reason I see all those questions about how to make convert a certain crochet project to loom knit.  Which of course you can’t…  Please refer to my previous article on converting for more about that.  But even something like a crochet border is just as complicated as a complete crochet project to some.

On that note, I would like to do my best to help instruct loom knitters on how to crochet a border on a flat panel.

What do you mean by “flat panel”?

When you loom knit a blanket, dish cloth, or anything else that is not worked in the round like a hat, it is a flat panel.

Why would I need to crochet a border?

Borders are needed to keep pieces from curling if the project is all knit.  Crocheting a border onto a finished flat panel will help keep it from curling.  Not all flat panels need to have a crochet border though.  Borders can be created by changing the stitch pattern while working the piece.  You can find out more on that here.

Sometimes the edges are just ugly or do not match.  While there are ways to work the project so that all the edges match, sometimes it is preferable to just crochet a border instead.   You can learn more on making the edges match while knitting here.

How do I crochet a border?

While there are lots of ways to crochet a border, today I will only demonstrate how to work a single crochet border onto a flat panel in the interest of keeping it simple.

I have worked a simple small square in all knit or stockinette in pink.  I will be using red for the border.  This square was worked on the Hat Loom in small gauge using worsted/medium weight yarn.  I am using a US 7/4.5mm hook for the border.

How do I know what size hook to use?

The easiest way to know what size hook to use if the pattern doesn’t specify is to use the hook recommended on the label of the yarn you are using.  If you are using more than one strand of yarn to create a bulkier yarn, you can refer here to know what weight yarn it is equivalent to.

Here is a rough guide to what size hook to use with each yarn weight that is commonly used in loom knitting.

Yarn Weight            Crochet Hook Size (US/metric)

3/light, dk, sport              7  t0  I-9  /  4.5 – 5.5mm

4/worsted, aran                I-9  to  K-10 1/2  /  5.5 – 6.5mm

5/bulky, chunky               K-10 1/2  to  M-13  /  6.5 – 9mm

6/super bulky                   M-13  to  Q  /  9 – 15mm

7/jumbo                             Q and larger  /  15mm and larger

Or you can just use whatever size will easily fit in the stitches without forcing the hook through.  That is usually what I do…

What if I am left handed?

Simply work everything I show in the other direction.  I do realize that most left handed people can use their right hand just as well as the left.  My sister is one of them.  While she writes with her left hand, she loom knits and crochets with her right as well as lots of other everyday activities with her right hand instead of her left.

Where and how do I join the yarn onto the piece?

You can join the yarn anywhere you like.  I prefer to join at the top right corner in the stitch next to the corner so that the last thing worked is the corner.

2-first-stitch

 

To do this, hold the project with the right side facing you.  I have worked a small flat panel with an e-wrap cast on and a basic bind off.  I am holding the bind off edge at the top.  You can use the cast on edge if you prefer.

I am pointing to the first stitch at the corner with my hook.

 

 

 

 

1-slip-knot-on-hook

 

First make a slip knot and place on the hook.

 

 

 

 

3-second-stitch

 

 

 

 

Insert the hook into the second stitch.

 

 

 

Join the yarn with a slip stitch by doing the following:

 

4-yo

 

 

Yarn over by hooking the working yarn with the crochet hook.

 

 

 

5-pull-loop-through

 

 

Pull working yarn through the stitch.

 

 

 

 

6-pull-loop-through-slip-knot

 

 

Then pull it again through the slip knot.

 

 

 

 

7-snug-up-tail

 

 

Pull on the tail to snug up the joining slip stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Now the yarn is joined to the piece, and you are ready to start your border.

How do I work the single crochet stitch?

8-work-in-tail

 

Before starting, you can hide your tail from your panel by bringing it across the edge and working the crochet stitches over the tail.  This is optional.  Just one less tail to weave in if you do.

 

 

Now you are ready to chain 1.  You must do this in order for the single crochet stitch to stand  up.

9-yo-for-chain

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

10-chain-1

 

 

Pull through the loop on the hook.

Chain 1 complete!

 

 

 

 

Now for the first single crochet stitch.

11-insert-in-same-stitch

 

 

Insert hook in same stitch as the join.

 

 

 

 

12-yo

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

13-pull-loop-through

 

 

Pull through the stitch so that there are now 2 loops on the hook.

 

 

 

 

14-yo

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

15-pull-through-both-loops

 

 

Pull loop through both loops on the hook.

Single crochet stitch complete!

 

 

 

16-insert-hook-next-stitch

 

 

Now you are ready to insert the hook into the next stitch and repeat the instructions for the single crochet stitch until you get to the corner stitch.

 

 

 

Where do I insert the hook for each stitch?

On the cast on and bind off edges, each crochet stitch goes into each stitch as you go since the size of the crochet hook should match the gauge of the knitted piece.  Those 2 edges are the easy ones.

The sides are a different story though.  When you look at a swatch gauge, there are more rows in an inch than there are stitches.  When working a crochet border, you need to take care that you do not work too many stitches or not enough stitches.

How will I know how where to put the stitches on the sides?  To be honest, it’s a guessing a game for the most part.

 

What happens if I do not space my crochet stitches evenly?

While working across the cast on and bind off edges is stitch for stitch as mentioned before, the sides is where a person can mess up the border by not having the stitches spaced evenly.

If you work too many stitches, the edge will ruffle like this.

too-many-stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you do not work enough stitches, the body of the project will gather with the edge being too tight like this.

not-enough-stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you use too many or not enough stitches on the edges, blocking will not fix it.  You will need to take the stitches back out and try again.

 

What do I do at the corners?

Corners need extra stitches so that the border will lay flat.  Each corner stitch requires 3 stitches of single crochet in the same stitch on each round.

17-corner-stitch

 

When the corner is reached,

 

 

 

 

18-first-stitch-in-corner

 

work the first single crochet in the corner.

 

 

 

 

 

Then work 2 more in the same place.

 

22-three-stitches-in-corner

 

All 3 stitches in one stitch will look like this.

 

 

 

 

23-next-stitch-in-side

 

Then continue on with the next side.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat the 3 stitches in one space at each corner.  The last corner should be your last stitch.  You will join the round after the last corner.  How you join will depend on if you are only doing 1 round or continuing with another round.

What if I want to work more than one round?

If working more than one round of single crochet for the border, you will need to join the first round with a slip stitch.

 

28-slip-stitch

 

 

When you reach the first stitch, place your hook through the top of that stitch.

 

 

 

 

29-yo-for-slip-stitch

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

30-pull-through-stitch-and-loop-on-hook

 

 

Then pull the working yarn through the stitch as well as the loop on the hook to complete the slip stitch.

 

 

 

31-chain-1

 

 

Then chain 1 and start the next round in the stitch where you joined.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue as before until you get to the corner.

Work a single crochet stitch in the first corner stitch in the row below.

Place the 3 single crochet stitches in the middle stitch of the 3 at the corner on the round below.

Then work a single crochet stitch in the last corner stitch of the row below.

 

34-three-stitches-in-middle-stitch-for-corner

 

 

Now you have worked your corner.  Continue as before.

 

 

 

 

How do I finish so the join is not seen?

After completing the last stitch, do not join with the slip stitch.

 

36-cut-working-yarn-remove-hook

 

Cut the working yarn with a tail long enough to weave in and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

 

 

 

37-thread-tapestry-needle

 

 

Thread tail on tapestry needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

38-insert-tapestry-needle-in-loop

 

 

Thread needle through the loop in the direction you were working.  Since I was working right to left, I inserted the needle into the loop from the right side of the loop to the left.  Pull the yarn through.

 

 

 

 

39-insert-needle-through-next-stitch

 

 

Run the needle through the stitch you are joining from the back of the work to the front making sure you catch the entire stitch so it will look like the needle is under 2 strands of yarn.  Pull yarn through.

 

 

 

40-insert-back-through-loop

 

Run the needle back through the last loop in the opposite direction than you did the first time.  For me, I went from left to right making sure the needle came out the back of the work.

Pull the yarn through.

 

 

 

41-finished-join

 

Now you are ready to weave in that last end for a nice seamless join.

 

 

 

 

 

 

finished-border

 

Crochet border complete!

While you can see the other color between the stitches on the sides, this will not happen when using the same color for the border.

Blocking will also help even out those stitches as well.

 

 

 

 

While the majority of loom knitting patterns do not require any crochet knowledge at all, some do.  A person does not need to proficient in crochet in order to work a simple border in crochet.  But once you learn, you may be hooked!  I find a mixture of loom knitting and crochet a fun and satisfying project.  Brings together 2 of my favorite things.

Hope this helps!  Happy loom knitting as well as crocheting!

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Delicious Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Digg Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Facebook Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Google+ Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on LinkedIn Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Pinterest Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on reddit Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on StumbleUpon Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Twitter Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Email Share 'Loom FAQs:  I Need to Crochet??' on Print Friendly
Sep 19, 2016

Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave

Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!Hi! I’m back again to share another pattern you can weave on your knitting loom. The soumak weave makes a really fun texture and pattern. This stitch makes what looks like a braid on your weaves. I’m excited to be sharing this how to along with a simple pattern that a beginner can make!

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in white is used for the warp, Red Heart Soft Yarn in White is used for the weft, and a hand-spun Coral Merino wool thick n’ thin from AmandaJFrench on Etsy is used for the soumak

Notions: tapestry needle, wooden dowel rod

Soumak Weave Steps:

Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 1: Pass your weft thread over three warp threads on the right side of the loom

Step 2: At the third warp, bring your weft thread under and around the third warp so that you finish with your weft thread above the warp again.

Step 3: Bring your weft over the third, fourth, and fifth warps, then loop under and around the fifth warp.

Step 4: Repeat this pattern of passing over three warps and looping around the third until you have reached the end.

Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 5: To then weave your soumak in the opposite direction, loop your weft thread over and around your warp and pull your weft thread to the right side.

Step 6: Following the soumak pattern from your bottom row, bring the weft across the same warp threads then loop around the same warp as you did in the row below. Repeat the soumak weave across the new row.


Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!Fluffy Soumak Wall Hanging Pattern Instructions:

Set up your loom as described here. Double knot your warp thread on pin #2 from the bottom left. Warp your loom so that 18 pins are warp across the top and 19 pins are warped on the bottom, which includes your beginning double knot and your ending double knot of the warp thread. Tie your anchor thread across the top of the warp loops.

Weave 3 rows of the plain weave using your white yarn.

Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!Combine 3 threads of your thick n’ thin yarn, we’ll weave them as one to add more texture and volume.

Soumak weave two rows, making sure to soumak weave every 4 warp threads (to account for the bulk of your yarn).

Repeat 4 times:

Plain weave 3 rows

Soumak weave 2 rows

End with 3 rows of plain weave.

Tuck your yarn tails in the back of the weave. For the plain weave rows, follow the instructions here.

Soumak Weave on a Knitting Loom!To tuck in the bulky thick n’ thin soumak rows, take your tapestry needle and tuck the threads through the back of two warp threads showing. There will be three warp threads showing in the back, I tucked my threads through the middle of one group and then the middle of a second group.

Following the similar finishing instructions here, cut your bottom warp threads and tie 4 threads into a single knot, making sure they are tight against the bottom plain weave row. Carefully remove the top warp loops from the loom pegs, then twist each one three times and put the dowel rod through the loops.

Once your weave is hung on the dowel rod and tied at the bottom, lay it on a flat surface and straighten the hanging warp threads. Using scissors cut each group of four warp threads at an even angle on both sides to form a slight point.

You now have a beautiful and fluffy weave to hang in your home or give as a gift!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom (a blog dedicated to helping others learn to weave)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Delicious Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Digg Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Facebook Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Google+ Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on LinkedIn Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Pinterest Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on reddit Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on StumbleUpon Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Twitter Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Email Share 'Loom Weaving: The Soumak Weave' on Print Friendly
Sep 17, 2016

Simple Baby Layette Set

simple-baby-layetteOur next baby loom knit for September brings you a lovely Baby Layette. Traditionally, a baby was welcomed into a family with lovely knits from grandma’s, aunts and older sisters. This lovely layette is a beginner level with simple shaping and basic stitches. 

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom

YARN:  Approx 360 yds of worsted weight yarn.  Knit Picks, The Mighty Stitch (2 skeins) in Mint was used in sample.

Pants: Approx 150 yds
Sweater: Approx 155 yds
Hat: Approx 55 yds.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

OTHER:  Small accent button for sweater

GAUGE: 8sts x 14 rows = 2 inches.

SIZE:  Newborn 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately, BBO=Basic Bind off, CO=Cast on, k=knit stitch, k2tog=knit two stitches together, p=purl stitch, rnd(s)=Round(s), st(s)=stitch(es), w&t=wrap and turn

 

HAT

CO 60 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1, 3, 5, 7: K to end

Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8: P to end

Rnd 9-40: K to end

Cut a piece of yarn that is 16 inches long. Thread tapestry needle with yarn. Remove the loops from the even numbered pegs. Cut another piece of yarn, 16 inches long, thread through tapestry needle. Remove all the loops from the odd numbered pegs. Gently, cinch the stitches from the even numbered pegs. Tighten with a square knot. Gently, cinch the stitches from the odd numbered pegs. Tighten with a square knot.

Weave ends in.

BABY PANTS

CO 76 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-7: k to end of rnd

Rnd 8: p to end of rnd

Rnd 9-15: k to end of rnd

Rnd 16: p to end of rnd

Rnd 17: k to end of rnd

Rnd 18: p to end of rnd

Rnd 19: k to end of rnd

Rnd 20: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 21-27: k to end of rnd.

Work in short rows for back of pants as follows (similar to a heel):

Short row 1:  k37, w&t peg 38

Short row 2: k from peg 37 to peg 2, w&t peg 1

Short row 3: k from peg 2 to peg 36, w&t peg 37

Short row 4: k from peg 36 to peg 3, w&t peg 2

Short row 5: k from peg 3 to peg 35, w&t peg 36

Short row 6: k from peg 35 to peg 4, w&t peg 3

Short row 7: k from peg 4 to peg 34, w&t peg 35

Short row 8: k from peg 34 to peg 5, w&t peg 4

Short row 9: k from peg 5 to peg 33, w&t peg 34

Short row 10: k from peg 33 to peg 6, w&t peg 5

Short row 11: k from peg 6 to peg 32, w&t peg 33

Short row 12: k from peg 32 to peg 7, w&t peg 6

Short row 13: k from peg 7 to peg 31, w&t peg 32

Short row 14: k from peg 31 to peg 8, w&t peg 7

Short row 15: k from peg 8 to peg 30, w&t peg 31

Short row 16: k from peg 30 to peg 9, w&t peg 8

Short row 17: k from peg 9 to peg 29, w&t peg 30

Short row 18: k from peg 29 to peg 10, w&t peg 9

Short row 19: k from peg 10 to peg 28, w&t peg 29

Short row 20: k from peg 28 to peg 11, w&t peg 10

Short row 21: k from peg 11 to peg 27, w&t peg 28

Short row 22: k from peg 27 to peg 12, w&t peg 11

Short row 23: k from peg 12 to peg 26, w&t peg 27

Short row 24: k from peg 26 to peg 13, w&t peg 12

Next rnd:  starting with peg 13, k to end of rnd

Next 20 rnds: k to end of rnd

Next rnd: k17, bo4, k17, k17, bo4, k17

From this point forward, you will be working the legs as flat panels as follows: One leg over the first 34 sts, second leg over the second set of 34 sts.

Leg 1

Next 28 rows: k to end of row

Next row: p to end of row

Next row: k to end of row

Next row: p to end of row

Next row: k to end of row

Next row: p to end of row.

BBO.

Repeat with Leg 2.

BABY SWEATER

CO 68 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1, 3, 5, 7: k to end

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to end

Row 9: k to end

Row 10: p4, k to last 4 sts, p4.

Repeat Row 9 and Row 10: until row 30 is reached (ends on a Row 10).

Divide sweater into three parts, two front panels and back panel as follows: Right side panel: first 17 pegs, back panel: middle 34 pegs, left side panel: remaining 17 pegs.

Working yarn is at peg 1, attach another skein of yarn to peg 18 and peg 52.

*Next row: with yarn coming from peg 1: k17, pu yarn at peg 18: k34, pu yarn at peg 52: k17

Next row: with yarn coming from peg 1: p17, pu yarn at peg 18: p34 , pu yarn at peg 52: p17*

Rep from * to *: 10 more times (20 more rows).

Next row: with yarn coming from peg 1: k17, pu yarn at peg 18: k34, pu yarn at peg 52: k17

Next row: with yarn coming from peg 1: BO 5, p12, pu yarn at peg 18: p34, pu yarn at peg 52: p12, BO 5, cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail, attach at peg 6*

Next row: k12, k34, k12 (picking up the skein from that specific section)

Next row: p12, k34, p12 (picking up the skein from that specific section)

BBO all three sections.

SLEEVES

(make 2)

CO 34 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 4 more times.

Next 4 rows: k to end.

*Next row: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Next 3 rows: k to end*.

Rep from * to * until 28 sts rem.

Next 8 rows: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

BBO. 

ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces. Mattress stitch seam the shoulders first: approx 1.5 inches, leaving the rest open for the neck opening.  Mattress stitch

Mattress stitch seam the shoulders first: approx 1.5 inches, leaving the rest open for the neck opening.  Mattress stitch seam the sleeves to armholes. Mattress stitch seam the sleeve.

Secure a small button on the right side corner of the front panel.

Button loop: Using a crochet hook and yarn, crochet a chain (approx 6 chains) to the top corner of the right side front panel.

Weave ends in.

Save

Save

Save

Save

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Delicious Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Digg Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Facebook Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Google+ Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on LinkedIn Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Pinterest Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on reddit Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on StumbleUpon Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Twitter Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Email Share 'Simple Baby Layette Set' on Print Friendly
Sep 12, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy

 

Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

This itty bitty baby skunk was designed for my husband.  He had a favorite little skunk toy when he was little.  He’s not actively collecting skunks, but over the years we’ve given him a little skunk figurine or other related item just for fun.  Whiffy is the newest member in his very small collection of these little critters.  I hope you’ll enjoy knitting this mini skunk for your favorite skunk enthusiast

img_3640

Knitting Loom: KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Small amounts of Red Heart Super Saver, in black, and Bernat Pipsqueak, in white.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, small amount of fiberfill, 2 beads (for eyes), small amount of thread in color of choice (for nose).

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Finished Measurements: Approximately 1” by 2.5”

 

Instructions

Legs (make 4):

Using the black yarn, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 peg i-cord for 2 rows.  Bind off.  Set cords aside for now.

 

Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 10 pegs, in the round.  With the black yarn, cast on 10 stitches using the drawstring cast on method.

img_3644    img_3645

Work 2 rounds using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Next 10 rounds:  Knit pegs 1-7 with the black yarn, knit the 8th peg with the white yarn, and knit the last 2 stitches with the white yarn.  Cut the black yarn, leaving a 20” yarn tail.  Using the black yarn, bind off with the gathered bind off method, skipping pegs 7, 8, and 9.  Pull the yarn tail to cinch the bottom of the skunk closed.  Continue on to the tail section.

 

Tail:

Work the tail using the 3 stitches remaining on the loom.

Row 1:  Knit peg 7 with the black yarn, peg 8 with the white yarn, and peg 9 with the black yarn.

Row 2:  Knit peg 9 with the black yarn, peg 8 with the white yarn, and peg 7 with the black yarn.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more. Cut the white yarn.  Using the black yarn, bind off using the basic bind off method. Use the yarn needle to weave in the yarn ends at the end of the tail.

 

Finishing

Lightly stuff body.

Locate yarn tail from the drawstring cast on and pull until the opening is cinched closed.  Use the remaining yarn end to stitch an ear on each side of the skunk’s head.  Weave in any remaining length.

Using the yarn tails from the cast on, sew the legs to the bottom of the body.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Sew a bead on each side of the skunk, near the front.  Using thread, stitch a little nose on the front of the skunk, just below the eyes.  Weave in any remaining threads.

 

img_3642

 

 

2 Comments

  • Simply ADORABLE!!!!

  • Cute!

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Delicious Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Digg Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Facebook Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Google+ Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on LinkedIn Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Pinterest Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on reddit Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on StumbleUpon Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Twitter Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Email Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Whiffy' on Print Friendly
Sep 11, 2016

Baby Cardigan

Baby Cardigan

Welcoming a baby into this world with lovely hand knits is one of the ways to show the depth of your loved for the new addition to the world. This month of September, we at KB are going to bring you baby knits that you can knit for the precious new bundle.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom, 81 pegs.

YARN: Approx 210 yards of pure  Merino Superwash worsted weight yarn.  Malabrigo Rios in Teal Feather was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle.

GAUGE: 11 sts x 22 rows= 2 inches in garter stitch

SIZE:  0-3 months.

ABBREVIATIONS


Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

k2tog=knit two stitches together

CDD=Centered double decrease. Decreasing from 3 stitches down to 1. It is over 3 pegs, pegs are numbered as follows: PEG 3, PEG 2, PEG 1 (Peg 1 is on the right and peg 3 on the left). Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Take working yarn behind peg 1 and peg 2, knit peg 3. Move stitch from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost two stitches (loops) up and off the peg. See video.

A video posted by Chubbette (@purlingsprite) on


YO=Yarn over (ewrap the empty peg, on next row, undo ewrap and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat it as a stitch)

Rep=Repeat

Rem=remain

w&t=Wrap and turn

 baby-cardi-back-2

INSTRUCTIONS

Set knitting loom to work a flat panel over 81 pegs.

Row 1 should be from right to left.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6: p to end of row.

Row 8: p5, k to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 9: k5, *k1, yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo; rep from * to last 6 sts, k1, k5.

Rep Row 8 and Row 9: 12 more times.

Next row: Rep Row 8.

Next row: k9, CDD, *k7, CDD; rep from * to last 9 sts, k9. (67 sts rem on loom). 

From this point forward, you will work 3 separate panels, two front panels and the back panel: divided as follows: 17 sts, 33 sts, and 17 sts.

Right side panel

With yarn coming from the first peg, work on the first 17 pegs as follows:

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Repeat last two rows: 12 more times (total of 24 rows, creating 12 garter stitch ridges).

Next row: k12, w&t.

Next row: p12.

Next row: k9, w&t.

Next row: p9.

BBO.

Back Panel

Place yarn on peg 18, work on next panel from peg 18 to peg 50.

Next row: p33.

Next row: k33. 

Rep last two rows: 14 more times (total of 28 rows, creating 14 garter stitch ridges).

BBO.

Left side panel

Place yarn on peg 81, work this last panel on remaining 17 stitches.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end. 

Rep last two rows: 12 more times (total of 24 rows, creating 12 garter stitch ridges).

Next row: k12, w&t.

Next row: p12.

Next row: k9, w&t.

Next row: p9.

BBO.

sweater-panels

 Sleeves

(make 2)

CO 34 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k to end.

Row 2: p to end.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 4 more times.

Next 4 rows: k to end.

*Next row: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Next 3 rows: k to end*.

Rep from * to * until 28 sts rem.

Next 8 rows: k  to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

BBO. 

Wet block all pieces before assembly. To accentuate the peaks of the lace, pin down the peaks when blocking.

ASSEMBLY

button-closureMattress stitch seam the shoulders first: approx 1.5 inches, leaving the rest open for the neck opening.

Mattress stitch the sleeves to armholes. Mattress stitch down the sleeve.

Secure a small button on the right side corner of the front panel.

Button loop: Using a crochet hook and yarn, crochet a chain (approx 6 chains) to the top corner of the right side front panel.

Weave ends in.

 

 

2 Comments

  • Do you have a breakdown of the CDD?

  • Centered double decrease. Decreasing from 3 stitches down to 1. It is over 3 pegs, pegs are numbered as follows: PEG 3, PEG 2, PEG 1 (Peg 1 is on the right and peg 3 on the left). Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Take working yarn behind peg 1 and peg 2, knit peg 3. Move stitch from peg 3 over to peg 2. Lift bottommost two stitches (loops) up and off the peg.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Delicious Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Digg Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Facebook Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Google+ Share 'Baby Cardigan' on LinkedIn Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Pinterest Share 'Baby Cardigan' on reddit Share 'Baby Cardigan' on StumbleUpon Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Twitter Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Email Share 'Baby Cardigan' on Print Friendly
Sep 5, 2016

Stitchology 24: Barber Pole

Barber Pole Front Angle

The stitch we’ll be working up this month is wonderful for its simple symmetry and lines.  The bold repeating pattern makes this a shoe-in stitch for those guys in your life! I can visualize this being used for hats, sweaters, scarves, socks, you name it!

Back side of Barber Pole Stitch~

Back side of Barber Pole Stitch~

The back of this stitch looks completely different, but very pleasingmaking this ideal for possible reversible projects or ones that might be viewed from both sides.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Barber Pole Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight Wool (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)  *Wool is recommended for this square, as blocking is a must.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8 sts—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviations
approx: approximately
sts: stitches
rep: repeat
CO: cast on
k:  knit
p: purl
wy: working yarn
BO: bind off

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 1:  p1, k6, p1.

Row 2:  p1, k5, p2.

Row 3: p3, k4, p1.

Row 4: p1, k3, p2, k1, p1..

Row 5: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1.

Row 6: p1, k1, p2, k3, p1..

Row 7: p1, k4, p3.

Row 8: p2, k5, p1.

Row 9 & 10: p1, k6, p1.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p38.

Row 2:  k38.

Row 3:  p38.

Row 4:  k38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p4, *k6, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6: k3, p1, *k5, p3,  rep from * to last 5 sts, p2, k3.

Row 7: p6, *k4, p4, rep from * to end of row.

Row 8: k3, p1, *k3, p2, k1, p2,  rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 9: p4, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 10: k3, p1, *k1, p2, k3, p2,  rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 11: p4, *k4, p4, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 12: k3, p2, *k5, p3, rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 13: p4, *k6, p2, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 14: k3, p1, *k6, p2,  rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Rows 15-54:  rep Rows 5-14.

Rows 55-57: rep Rows 5-7.

Finishing Rows

Row 58:  k38.

Row 59:  p38.

Row 60:  k38.

Row 61: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

4 Comments

  • Thank you I was waiting for the next pattern

  • Oh, glad to help keep your loomy juices flowing, Ginny! :) Some of us took a little vacay time in August, but are back now, so you’ll see more designs coming off the looms soon! :D

  • Love this easy pattern. Would the wrong side look nice enough for a mans scarf? Keep the patterns coming. Than you!

  • Hi Cindy! :) I’m so glad you like it! I think the back side is really neat looking and would be very suitable for a men’s scarf. Of course, everyone has their own preferences, but I, myself, would definitely use it for that purpose! ;)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Delicious Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Digg Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Facebook Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Google+ Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on LinkedIn Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Pinterest Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on reddit Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on StumbleUpon Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Twitter Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Email Share 'Stitchology 24:  Barber Pole' on Print Friendly
Aug 15, 2016

Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance

We would like to share some amazing Zippy projects done by various designers! Please go support them and leave feedback on their blogs on these cute, free patterns for the new Zippy Master set.

zippy master desings1

No Twist Drop Stitch Chunky Scarf by Bethany Dailey

Shades of Grey Pillow by Renita Harvey

Cozy Zippy Lapghan by Isela Phelps

Champ-Elysees Scarf by Jenny Stark 

2 Comments

  • I bought most of the Zippy loom parts before the master set came out. Is it possible to purchase the L-connectors and straight connectors. I have everything else so I don’t really want to purchase the Master set. Thanks so much for any suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Pam Smart

  • It is in the plans that these parts will be sold separately in the near future in our website.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Delicious Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Digg Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Facebook Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Google+ Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on LinkedIn Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Pinterest Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on reddit Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on StumbleUpon Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Twitter Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Email Share 'Zippy Master Set Makes an Appearance' on Print Friendly
Aug 13, 2016

Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging

Simple Striped Woven Wall HangingWeaving has made a huge comeback and there is no doubt that the reason is it’s so fun! With this pattern for beginner’s you’ll be able to make your very own woven wall hanging.

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in Golden Yellow is used for the warp, Red Heart Soft Yarn in White is used for the weft, Red Heart Soft Yarn in Seafoam is used for the weft, and Red Heart Soft Yarn in Charcoal is used for the double thread weft.

Notions: tapestry needle, wooden dowel rod

Instructions:

Assemble your knitting loom using the 48 peg sides with the 20 peg extenders

Starting at the third peg on the extender bar, warp your loom following the instructions here so that 16 pegs are warped across the top and 17 pegs on the bottom. Add your anchor thread.

Plain weave the following, leaving 3 inch yarn tails on the sides of your weave when you complete a color block:

13 rows of white

5 rows of 2 strands of charcoal

7 rows of white

2 rows of seafoam

4 rows of white

2 rows of seafoam

8 rows of 2 strands of charcoal

2 rows of seafoam

5 rows of white

2 rows of seafoam

7 rows of white

8 rows of seafoam

9 rows of 2 strands of charcoal

The main body of the weave is complete. Finish your weave following the instructions here.

Congratulations on weaving a wall hanging! Please let me know if you have any questions or comments below.

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Delicious Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Digg Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Facebook Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Google+ Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on LinkedIn Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Pinterest Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on reddit Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on StumbleUpon Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Twitter Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Email Share 'Simple Striped Woven Wall Hanging' on Print Friendly
Aug 7, 2016

Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

Weaving has made a huge comeback and there is no doubt that the reason is it’s so fun! We’re going to show you how to use your Knitting Loom as a weaving loom! In this part 2 instruction you’ll learn how to finish your weave, take it off the loom, and hang it for display.  We covered part 1 here.

Weaving Terms:

Warp: The thread that is vertically wrapped around your loom, this is the backbone of the weave.

Weft: The thread that is horizontally woven between the warp threads, this is the design of the weave.

Loom: All-n-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in Golden Yellow is used for the warp, Red Heart Soft Yarn in White is used for the weft, Red Heart Soft Yarn in Seafoam is used for the weft, and Red Heart Soft Yarn in Charcoal is used for the double thread weft.

Notions: tapestry needle, wooden dowel rod

Finishing Your Weave Instructions:

To finish your weave, you will first have to secure all your yarn tails. Turn your Knitting Loom over so that the back of the weave is facing you.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

To secure your yarn tails:

  • If your yarn tail ends under the warp thread, take the tapestry needle and pull it through the back of the same colored weft rows below it.
  • If your yarn tail ends over the warp thread, take the tapestry needle and loop around the warp thread, bringing the yarn tail up so that it is now under the warp thread and then pull it through the back of the same colored weft rows below it.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

To secure thick yarn or doubled thread:

  • If your yarn tail ends under the warp thread, take the tapestry needle and hook the yarn tail under the closest warp thread.
  • If your yarn tail ends over the warp thread, take the tapestry needle and loop around the warp thread, bringing the yarn tail up so that it is now under the warp thread and then hook the yarn tail under the closest warp thread.

Secure one yarn tail at a time to the back of your weave and trim any excess yarn once secured. As you secure each yarn tail, flip back to the front and make sure that your yarn tails are not showing in the front of the weave.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

Once all yarn tails are secured and trimmed, cut the anchor thread.

Next cut across the bottom warp threads, I cut mine to 5 inches long.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

Now knot two warp threads together at a time all the way across the bottom of the weave to secure it.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 2

Carefully lift the top warp loops off the loom.

Pass the dowel rod through the warp loops. If your dowel rod is thinner then the loops then double twist the loops above the top weft row and then pass the dowel rod through the loop. This will secure your top weft row from creeping up your warp loops.

Now you know how to begin a weave, make the plain weave, and how to finish your weave. Don’t forget to try our beginner’s pattern where you can practice what you’ve learned!

Please let me know if you have any questions or comments below!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom

Save

7 Comments

  • Has Stitchology ended

  • I am going to try to make a table runner using this weaving technique. I have the loom but never used it. Thanks for the tutorial .

  • Stitchology and all the other regular columns are on hold for the month of August. The columnist are taking a well deserved vacation.

  • Thanks I was hoping it did not end

  • Is this going to be on YouTube with the All-n-One Loom. I like to make a scraf with these instructions.

  • Anyone able to help me with the Harvest Lace shawl? I don’t understand why the description says there will be a gap between section1 and 2 – HELP!

  • Great job, I appreciate you hand made wall hanging tapestry. thanks for sharing.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Delicious Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Digg Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Facebook Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Google+ Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on LinkedIn Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Pinterest Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on reddit Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on StumbleUpon Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Twitter Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Email Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2' on Print Friendly
Aug 4, 2016

Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1
Weaving has made a huge comeback and there is no doubt that the reason is it’s so fun! We’re going to show you how to use your Knitting Loom as a weaving loom! In this part 1 instruction you’ll learn how to warp your Knitting Loom and how to weave the plain (tabby) weave. We shared how to finish a weave here.

Weaving Terms:

Warp: The thread that is vertically wrapped around your loom, this is the backbone of the weave.

Weft: The thread that is horizontally woven between the warp threads, this is the design of the weave.

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders: Note the 28″ Knitting loom comes with the Peg Extenders. If you purchase the AIO, it doesn’t come with the Peg Extenders. In addition, the gauge of the Peg Extenders differs from the AIO. While you can use the Peg Extenders with the AIO to weave, it is not recommended to use them together to knit as the areas where the peg extenders will have a different gauge, proving you with a knit fabric that is not uniform throughout.

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in Golden Yellow is used for the warp, Red Heart Soft Yarn in White is used for the weft, and Red Heart Soft Yarn in Charcoal is used for the double thread weft.

Notions: tapestry needle

Warping the Loom Instructions:

Assemble your knitting loom using the 48 peg sides with the 20 peg extenders

On the peg extender, count to the third peg and tie your warp thread in a double knot.
Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1

Bring the warp thread up and around the corresponding top peg, then back down.

It is important to keep an even tension as you pull the warp thread around the pegs. You want your warp thread to be pulled tight enough to not sag, but it should have some bounce to it. It should be similar to a strung guitar.

Continue to pass the warp thread from bottom, around a peg, to top, around a peg, back to bottom and so on. Do this until you have pass the warp around the top peg that is the third from the end of the extender. You will have used 16 pegs at the top.

Then bring the warp thread down to the bottom peg that is second from the end of the extender where you will tie it off. Before you tie off the warp thread, check your tension, if the warp is sagging you can pull the warp around each peg to get it tighter as you work the excess towards your last peg. Once the tension is good, tie a double knot on that last peg and cut the thread from the ball. You will notice that both the start and end of the warp thread are tied at the bottom of the loom, this ensures you have warp loops at the top of your weave. You will have used 17 pegs at the bottom.
Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1

Next, taking about 18 inches of your white yarn, tie and anchor string across the top warp threads (the top is the end without the warp thread knots). Between the second and third peg on the sides, tie a double knot of the yarn around the one side of the loom. Pull the yarn across the front of the warp threads and tie a double knot of the yarn around the opposite side of the loom. This anchor provides two functions; it keeps the warp threads from sliding up the pegs and it is a place marker of where to start your weaving.

Plain (Tabby) Weave Instructions:

The plain weave is the basic over 1 warp under 1 warp weaving pattern.

Turn your loom so that the top with the warp loops and anchor string is closest to you (or upside down). We will weave top to bottom.

Cut a length of the white yarn to approximately 36 inches long.
Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1

Using this length of yarn and a tapestry needle, start plain weaving by passing the needle over 1 warp thread, then under 1 warp thread, over 1 and so on. Repeat this all the way across your warp threads and pull your yarn through leaving a 3 inch yarn tail off the side of the loom.

Push your woven yarn down with the tapestry needle, so that it is next to your anchor thread.

For the return pass, weave your yarn in the opposite pattern from the row before it. I ended under the warp thread, so in the return pass, I will start weaving over 1 warp, under 1 warp repeating until I reach the end of the row.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1Pull your weft thread until you have a slight loop around the end warp. If you pull too much, your warp threads will be pulled into the middle and your sides will not be straight.

Using your needle, push the weft thread down to the other row. A good exercise is to create weft hills, as is shown in the picture, so that you ensure your weft thread isn’t pulling on the warp strings. Push all the hills down until the wefts are flat against each other. If the weft is too loose you can tug a bit on the yarn remove excess yarn from the row, but make sure your warp end stays straight.

Weave back in the opposite direction again, continuing the over 1 warp, under 1 warp pattern. Each row will alternate this pattern.

Once you are finished leave a tail of 3 inches off the side.

Tapestry Weave on a Knitting Loom! Part 1

You can also weave the plain weave using more then one thread at a time. In the above picture you can see that two threads next to each other can be woven to add bulk. To do this, simply cut two threads of yarn and using the tapestry needle, weave both threads at the same time.

That wraps up Part 1, you can find Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 2 here and create a wall hanging with this beginner’s pattern!

Please let me know if you have any questions or comments below!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom

5 Comments

  • It would be nice to have a video on this?….

  • Yes, I agree that a video would be helpful. I want to weave on my 28″ board with the long connectors. I am assuming that the process would be the same. But visual instructions work best for me.

  • Is it possible to use dish cloth cotton instead of crochet cotton?

  • You can use any type of thread or fiber, including wool roving, rag strips, etc once you get the initial process down. Have fun with it!

  • Yes you can use dish cloth cotton. You can use anything for the warp, but I’ve found that using a strong thread with little stretch is the best to use when starting out. A dish cloth cotton would be both strong and have little stretch.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Delicious Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Digg Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Facebook Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Google+ Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on LinkedIn Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Pinterest Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on reddit Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on StumbleUpon Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Twitter Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Email Share 'Learn to Weave a Tapestry: Part 1' on Print Friendly
Aug 1, 2016

NEW Zippy Master Set

Now you can get all your Zippy parts in one set !!

890531001726.main

 

With the Zippy Master Set, we are introducing new Zippy  “L” connectors and straight connectors to give you even more connection options than ever before!

Knitting on Zippy Loom is the easiest and fastest way to knit! With one Zippy create a scarf in 10-15 minutes. Great tool for beginners to learn loom knitting , and experienced knitters who want to create beautiful chunky knits quickly.

The Zippy Master Set includes: (4) Zippys, (4) Corners, (4) “L” connectors, (2) Straight connectors, (4) regular connectors, (4) projects, step by step instructions and knit hook.

Connect with Zippy Corners to make a 20 peg loom for adult hats, or cowls. With the brand new “L” connectors, make a 16 peg loom for kid’s hats, or use the straight connectors for double knitting. Mix Zippys + super bulky yarn to create super fast knits! Check out Zippy Loom patterns and Zippy Loom videos!

890531001726.PT02

To set up Zippy Looms to make a child size hat use the “L” connectors (above see connected), to make a 16 peg loom.  To set up Zippy Looms for double knitting, use (2) 8 peg Zippys and add the straight connectors to create a double knitting loom (see below).

Simple double knit scarf, knit using the straight connectors

Simple double knit scarf, knit using the straight connectors

doubleknit_sample2

Double Knit on Zippy for extra chunky scarf!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Watch above to see Zippy Connections in Action!

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

2 Comments

  • I have 10 zippys and4 connectors How can I get the straight connector?

  • Hi, its our very newest product and the new connectors are only available in the master kit at this time. Please be sure you are signed up for newsletters so you will be first to know when these parts may be available as stand alone products. Thank you, Pat

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Delicious Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Digg Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Facebook Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Google+ Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on LinkedIn Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Pinterest Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on reddit Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on StumbleUpon Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Twitter Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Email Share 'NEW Zippy Master Set' on Print Friendly
Jul 31, 2016

Undulating Crescents Cowl

Crescents Cowl

It is not too early to begin knitting your knits for fall. The Crescents Cowl uses a beautiful lace stitch to create a cascading waterfall of eyelet openings that undulate around the cowl. Worked in luxurious pure merino wool, this item will become one of your go-to for this upcoming fall/winter.

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom (100 pegs used).

YARN:  Approx 200 yds of worsted weight pure merino superwash. Candombe was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 11sts x 16 rows = 2 inches.

SIZE:  10” wide x 11” high. To make wider—increase by 10 sts (wider cowls must use a different loom than the All-n-One. 


ABBREVIATIONSCrescents Cowl, loom and yarn

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)

SSK=Slip, slip, knit

YO=Yarn over (ewrap the empty peg)

INSTRUCTIONS

Set knitting loom to the 100 pegs.

CO 100 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-Rnd 8: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 9: *p1, yo, k3, ssk, k4; rep from * to end.

Rnd 10 and all even numbered rnds: *p1, k9; rep from * to end.

Rnd 11: *p1, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k3; rep from * to end.

Rnd 13: *p1, k2, yo, k3, ssk, k2; rep from * to end.

Rnd 15: *p1, k3, yo, k3, ssk, k1; rep from * to end.

Rnd 17: *p1, k4, yo, k3, ssk; rep from * to end.

Rnds 18-20: *p1, k9; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnds 9-20: until item measures approx 10″ from cast on edge.

Next 8 rnds: *k2, p2; rep from  * to end of rnd.

Bind off with basic removal method. Weave ends in. Block lightly.

Continue reading »

4 Comments

  • Is there a repeat from Rnd 9 or so? Is so, how many repeats are there? Thank you!

  • Also, is there a Rnd 19 or is it the same as Rnd 18?

  • There is a Rnd 19. “Rnds 18-20: *p1, k9; rep from * to end.” This means that it is Rnds 18, 19, and 20, so yes, it is the same as Rnd 18.

  • Tricia, you repeat round 9-20 until the item measures approximately 10 inches from the cast on edge. If you want it longer (you will need more than the 1 skein of yarn), you can continue to make it longer, then finish off with the last 8 rounds in the pattern.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Delicious Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Digg Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Facebook Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Google+ Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on LinkedIn Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Pinterest Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on reddit Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on StumbleUpon Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Twitter Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Email Share 'Undulating Crescents Cowl' on Print Friendly
Jul 29, 2016

NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!

redheart_kb_banner

 

is partnering with 
to bring great yarns and NEW PATTERN KITS to KB looms!

We’re excited to Partner with Red Heart Yarns, one of the most widely-recognized brands in the USA. Red Heart is the Winner of the Women’s Choice Award  and voted the most recommended yarn brand. Red Heart yarn has been the choice of millions of crocheters and knitters for more than 80 years. Now we are bringing the Best of Red Heart to you!

Yarn_BannerBlog3_071716

Also check out the New Pattern Kits! It’s one stop shopping. The kits include all yarn needed for each project, downloadable pattern, and a knitting loom.  Our initial kit offerings include a baby blanket, large afghan, 2 shawls and 2 fun summer socks. Our design team worked hard to create these beautiful knits. (Simply click on the photo to view all kits).  We hope you enjoy!
PatternImage_Blog_071716

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Delicious Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Digg Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Facebook Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Google+ Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on LinkedIn Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Pinterest Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on reddit Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on StumbleUpon Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Twitter Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Email Share 'NEW Pattern Kits with Red Heart Yarns!' on Print Friendly
Jul 17, 2016

Trellis Headband

 

Trellis-Headband-683x1024Summertime is here and with it the promises of hiking through the high mountain tops and discovering new streams and meadows. Keep your hair in check with the trellis headband that blends in with the foliage. 

LOOM:  All-n-One Loom (25 pegs)

YARN:  Approx  60 yds of worsted weight merino wool.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Tadpole was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

GAUGE: 20 sts x 17 rows = 4”

SIZE:  16.5” long (plus the icords) x 5″ wide

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

k2tog=knit two stitches together

ssk=slip, slip, knit

CDD=Centered double decrease

rem=remaining

yo=yarn over (ewrap the empty peg, on next row, undo ewrap and place this strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat it as a stitch)

INSTRUCTIONSTrellis-Headband-2-683x1024

Set knitting loom with the spacers at opposite ends–you will be using 25 pegs.

Cast on 25 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (going from right to left (clockwise) on the loom): k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Row 3: k2, k1, *yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 4 (and all even rows): p2, k to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 5, 7, 9: Rep Row 3.

Row 11, 13, 15, 17: k2, k2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, CDD; rep from * to last 11 sts, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2.

Row 18: p2, k to last 2 sts, p2.

Repeat Rows 3 to 18 until piece measures 12” from CO edge.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

**Next row: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

Next row: p to end of row.Trellis Headband Back

Rep last 2 rows until 5 sts rem.

On rem 5 sts, work a 5 st icord that is 8 inches in length. Bind off. Weave ends in. **

On the cast on edge, pick up 25 stitches and place them back on the knitting loom.

Rep from ** to **.

Block lightly.

 

Need extra assistance with the lace rows? We’ve got you covered! Keep reading below for extra assistance.

Continue reading »

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Trellis Headband' on Delicious Share 'Trellis Headband' on Digg Share 'Trellis Headband' on Facebook Share 'Trellis Headband' on Google+ Share 'Trellis Headband' on LinkedIn Share 'Trellis Headband' on Pinterest Share 'Trellis Headband' on reddit Share 'Trellis Headband' on StumbleUpon Share 'Trellis Headband' on Twitter Share 'Trellis Headband' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Trellis Headband' on Email Share 'Trellis Headband' on Print Friendly
Jul 11, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette

Whimsical Loom Knits – July 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

This pretty bookmark is designed to resemble a curving, twining vine.  The pattern name, Vignette, was chosen because the word originated from the Middle French word, vignete, the diminutive form of the noun vigne, which means “vine.” In English, the word was first used in the mid-18th century for a design or illustration that ran along the border of a page, or one that marked the beginning or end of a chapter. The designs often looked like little vines.  Knit this charming bookmark to mark your page in your favorite book. 

IMG_3578

Knitting Loom: 11 peg loom rail from the KB Hat Loom

Yarn: Approximately 12 yards of a light fingering weight yarn.  1 mini skein of Lion Brand Bonbons was used for the sample.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle,

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Finished Measurements: Approximately 2” wide by 8.5” in length

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

K2tog – Knit 2 together (decrease)

M1 – Make 1 (increase)

P2tog – Purl 2 together (decrease)

Sl 1 – Slip 1

 

Pattern Notes: For the purposes of this project, when the pattern indicates a M1, simply cast a new stitch on the peg indicated by the pattern.

 

Instructions

Right Scallops:

Begin at peg 6.  Working from left to right, cast on 3 stitches.

Row 1:  Sl 1, K2.

Row 2:  Sl 1, K2, M1.

Row 3:  Sl 1, K3.

Row 4:  Sl 1, K3, M1.

Row 5:  Sl 1, K4.

Row 6:  Sl 1, K4, M1.

Row 7:  Sl 1, K5.

Row 8:  Sl 1, K5.

Row 9:  Sl 1, K5.

Row 10:  Sl 1, K3, K2tog.

Row 11:  Sl 1, K4.

Row 12:  Sl 1, K2, K2tog.

Row 13:  Sl 1, K3.

Row 14:  Sl 1, K1, K2tog.

 

Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  Place the remaining stitch back on peg 6.

 

Working from left to right, cast on 2 more stitches.  Repeat rows 1-14, creating a second scallop.  Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  Place the remaining stitch back on peg 6.

 

Continue working in this manner until there are 5 Right Scallops, or until the desired length has been created.  Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  Place the remaining stitch back on peg 6.

 

Left Scallops:

Begin at peg 6.  Working from right to left, cast on 2 more stitches.

Row 1:  Sl 1, P1, K1..

Row 2:  Sl 1, P2, M1.

Row 3:  Sl 1, P2, K1.

Row 4:  Sl 1, P3, M1.

Row 5:  Sl 1, P3, K1.

Row 6:  Sl 1, P4, M1.

Row 7:  Sl 1, P4, K1.

Row 8:  Sl 1, P5.

Row 9:  P2tog, P3, K1.

Row 10:  Sl 1, P4..

Row 11:  P2tog, P2, K1.

Row 12:  Sl 1, P3..

Row 13:  P2tog, P1, K1.

Row 14:  Sl 1, P2.

 

Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  Place the remaining stitch back on peg 6.

 

Locate the connecting stitch between the nearest Right Scallop and the one below it.

 

IMG_3576

 

Place this connecting stitch back on the loom, above the stitch on peg 6.  (Make sure that the knit side of the Right Scallop is facing the same direction as the knit side of the Left Scallop, and that together, they form a nice oval shape.)

 

IMG_3575

 

Knit the lower stitch over the upper stitch.

 

Working from right to left, cast on 2 more stitches.  Repeat rows 1-14, creating a second scallop.  Using the basic bind off method, bind off 2 stitches.  Place the remaining stitch back on peg 6.

 

Continue working in this manner until there are 5 Left Scallops, and they have all been joined to the Right Scallops – or until the desired length has been created.

 

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.  Steam to block.

 

IMG_3579

1 Comment

  • Jenny, this is so neat! I love it! It could also be used as a trim on an item, or even a pretty bracelet. Terrific job, as always! :)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Delicious Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Digg Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Facebook Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Google+ Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on LinkedIn Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Pinterest Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on reddit Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on StumbleUpon Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Twitter Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Email Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – Vignette' on Print Friendly
Jul 10, 2016

Harvest Time Rug


photo 5Bring the fall colors to the inside of your home with this beautiful Harvest Time rug. With our little rug in ‘veggie’ colors of Eggplant purple, squash yellow, and herbal greens as a great reminder.  It’s fun and easy to knit and very durable.

Loom:  28” Knitting Board + Peg Extenders Loom.  Set up as double knit with    smallest setting of wood spacers-No extenders needed.

Yarn:  Lion Brand Wool-Ease Chunky, 80% Acrylic and 20% Wool, 153 yds per skein.  Machine Washable. Colors used #173 Willow (G), #131 Moss (M), #144 Eggplant (E).

Lion Brand Homespun (H), 98% Acrylic and 2% Polyester, Color Green, 185 yds per skein.  Machine Washable.

Purchase (2) skeins of each of the (4) yarns so you can have 2 skeins to pull from.  You will only use the yardage of one skein so they can be partial skeins.  If you plan to make a longer rug, you will need additional yarn or the 2 full skeins of each color.

Stitches:  ZigZag and Stockinette  (See review of ZigZag below)

Notions Needed:  Knit Hook, Crochet hook size 5, Large darning needle, Scissors.

Gauge:  3 stitches=1” and 4 rows=1”

Finished Size:  21” wide X 28” long

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast On in stockinette stitch, 62 stitches in center of loom. Color (G). Change to ZigZag stitch.

Work (16) rows, in ZigZag stitch.  Cut (G) yarn with 2-3” tail and tie on 2 strands of (M) yarn.  Working with 2 strands is very bulky, so work slowly.  When working with double strands, you can pull from both ends of the skein to get the (2) strands.(If preferred, you can use 1 strand of Lion Brand Thick n’Quick in same color.)

Work (2) rows in Stockinette with (M) yarn.  Do not cut the yarn as it will be used for the border of each row.

You will now tie on the yarns to create the (3) sections of color.  Tie on color (H) at 5th stitch.  Tie on color (G) at 23rd  stitch.  Tie on another skein of (H) at 42nd  stitch.  Tie on another 2 strands of (M) yarn at stitch 58.  You can pull from both ends of the Moss yarn skein to get the double strands from one skein.

You should work full rows of all colors to be sure the sections are equal.  If you want to twist at each joint of color, it will keep the yarn sections attached, but the yarns will get very tangled.  The option is to just allow the sections to be separate.  We will seam them together at the end.  This method is much faster and easier, and preferred.  Place the skeins in front of your knitting.

Work in Stockinette Stitch for all sections.  Work (4) stitches (M) yarn, (18) stitches (H) yarn1, (18) stitches (G) yarn, (18) stitches (H) yarn2, (4) stitches with 2nd (M) yarn.

Work all for (25) rows.  Cut the center yarns leaving 2” tails.  Do not cut the (M) yarns at beginning or end of loom.  This border will continue on all sections.

Tie on (E) yarn at stitch (5) stitch attaching to (H) yarn.  Tie on (H) yarn at stitch 23 attaching to (G) yarn.  Tie on other skein of (E) yarn at stitch 42 attaching to (H) yarn.

Lay yarn tails on the knitting between the pegs.

Work all for (25) rows.  Cut the center yarns leaving 2” tails.  Do not cut the (M) yarns.  Tie on the (H) yarn, the (G) yarn, and the 2nd skein of (H) yarn.

Work all for (25) rows.  You are now ready to add the stripe (M) rows.  If you choose to make your rug longer than 28”, you can repeat another 25 row section before doing the (M) stripe.

You will continue working with the first 2 strands of (M) yarn.  Cut all the others leaving a 2” yarn tail including the 2nd double strand of (M) yarn at end of loom.

Work (1) rows of (M) yarn across all stitches.  When you get to each of the yarn tails, stop and tie the yarn tail onto the working yarn, and then continue to end of row.  Repeat (1) additional row.

Cut and knot the 2 strands of (M) yarn.  Tie on (G) yarn.

Work in ZigZag stitch for (16) rows.

Cut the (G) yarn leaving 2” yarn tail.

Bind Off of loom using a basic 2-loop bind off starting at end of loom opposite the yarn tail.  Use the yarn tail to create a knot with the last loop.

Bind Off at anchor yarn starting at edge opposite the yarn tail.  Once complete, you can carefully remove the anchor yarn.  Pull in any yarn tails that are exposed.

Sewing the Seams:

photo 1

Connect all corners of color sections with a small piece of scrap yarn before doing the stitching.  Then work the pieces together by sewing with an invisible stitch so that the sewing does not show.

Once complete, your ‘Veggie’ Rug is ready to use.

 

 

 

ZIGZAG STITCH

This stitch is created by weaving every peg, front to back, across the loom at an angle.  Then the next row is done at the opposite angle.  This is what creates the ‘zig’ and the ‘zag’.  In order to get all pegs covered, it is necessary to wrap the first 3 pegs at both ends with a straight weave also.  We will use 2 different yarns to illustrate.

Start the row by weaving front to back on first 3 pegs.  Be sure to start by noting from which side the yarn is coming, and continue in that direction.

Now, going back to peg 1, weave the photo 2(3)diagonal weave across the loom covering all pegs with a new loop.  Note that the weaving is going in opposite direction from previous row.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When you get to end, yophoto 4(1)u must repeat the straight weave on last 3 pegs so that all pegs have a new wrap.

 

 

 

photo 5

 

 

 

 

This will result in one side of loom with an extra wrap on last 3 pegs.  Same situation on the first 3 pegs.  If you pegs have both the straight weave and the diagonal weave, this is a thick side.  If you only have the straight weave on the 3 pegs, this is your thin side.

photo 4(2)

When you hook over all pegs on the row, lift one over one.  If you have 3 loops, lift 1 over 2 on the thick side, and lift 2 over 1 on the thin side.

(This is thick side.  Lift one loop over 2 loops.)

 

 

 

 

(This is thin side.  Lift 2 loops over one loop.)

 

Now, weave the next row at opposite angle.  If you start and you see it’s the same angle, this means that you started on the wrong side of loom.  Go photo 2(4)back and wrap again.

Designed by Pat Novak

2 Comments

  • The rug looks great. How hard is it knitting with two strands of such thick yarn if one has a touch of arthritis?

  • The two strands are not harder to move than a single strand of super chunky yarn. I just suggest that you go slower pace so that both strands get worked as one. Also, relax with the stitches and they will be comfortable to move.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Delicious Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Digg Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Facebook Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Google+ Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on LinkedIn Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Pinterest Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on reddit Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on StumbleUpon Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Twitter Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Email Share 'Harvest Time Rug' on Print Friendly
Jul 4, 2016

Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch

Summertime is here and that calls for a stitch that won’t take too much time away from those busy summer schedules to master.  It’s another one of those stitches that consists of only knits and purls—perfect for a quick knit with loads of texture and possible future uses.  This one is truly lovely and reminiscent of the woven crusts on the top of  a scrumptious cherry pie!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Lattice and Seed Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in berries)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to a variety of projects, especially ones that the back side isn’t featured, as the design is best displayed from the front.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14 + 2 sts added at the end—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat + the number of ending sts to complete the pattern.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviations
approx: approximately
sts: stitches
rep: repeat
CO: cast on
k:  knit
p: purl
wy: working yarn
BO: bind off

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

The blue columns in the above chart represents the added 2 stitches needed to be tacked at the end of the repeating rows to complete the pattern.  This is why the stitch pattern is listed as a repeat of 14+2 stitches.  Stitches 1-14 are repeated as desired, then stitches 15 & 16 are added at the end to complete the pattern.  These last 2 stitches will be implemented below as if there is only one pattern,  with no repeats.

Row 1:  k16.

Rows 2, 4, 6: k2, *(p1, k1) 3 times, k1, rep from * .

Rows 3, 5, 7: k3, *(p1, k1) twice, k3,  rep form * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 8 & 10: p14, k2.

Rows 9 & 11: k16.

Rows 12, 14, 16:  rep Rows 2, 4, 6

Rows 13, 15, 17: rep Rows 3, 5, 7

Rows 18 & 20:  *k2, p5, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 19: k16.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p41.

Row 2:  k41.

Row 3:  p41.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k41.

Rows 5, 7, 9: p2, k2, *(p1, k1) 3 times, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rows 6, 8, 10: k5, *(p1, k1) twice, k3,  rep from * to last st, k1.

Rows 11 & 13: p2, k2, *p12, k2, rep from * to last 9 sts, p9.

Rows 12 & 14: k41.

Rows 15, 17, 19:  rep Rows 5, 7, 9.

Rows 16, 18, 20: rep Rows 6, 8, 10.

Rows 21 & 23:  p9, *k2, p12, rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 22: k41.

Rows 23-70: rep Rows 4-22.

Finishing Rows

Row 71: p41.

Row 72:  k41.

Row 73:  p41.

Row 74:  k41.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Delicious Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Digg Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Facebook Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Google+ Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on LinkedIn Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Pinterest Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on reddit Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on StumbleUpon Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Twitter Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Email Share 'Stitchology 23 : Lattice with Seed Stitch' on Print Friendly
Jun 26, 2016

Semaphore Socks

Semaphore Socks

Summer camp is a fun rite of passage while growing up.  It has all the excitement of being away from home, making new friends, and having lots of new adventures.  Most camps teach interesting new skills to take home and remember for a lifetime…one of them could be learning to communicate via an old secret code: flag symbols, or semaphore!

An entire alphabet and numbers could be signaled depending on the positioning of these special flags.  Although the code is not so much used these days, these sporty socks recall to mind the thrill of learning new adventures, along with all the excitement of summer.   

 

LOOM:  Sock Loom EFG (shown at 64 pegs).

YARN:  Approx 300 yds of washable sock weight.  Lion Brand Sock-Ease Yarn in Marshmallow was used in sample for the MC, Patons Kroy Socks Yarn in Purple Haze was used for the CC. Both are 75% washable wool and 25% nylon.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles in size 1 or 2 (used to Kitchener the toe), row counter, measuring tape.

GAUGE: 15 sts x 22 rows= 2” in stockinette.

SIZE:  Shown in size 6-7 women. To create a larger, but still narrower size, simply work the foot section to 1.5 inches of desired length, then follow the toe instructions.  To create a larger and wider size (size 8-9 women), follow the instructions for using 72 pegs in parenthesis, along with making the foot section the desired length as described previously.  Of course, gauge will always be a consideration for a proper fit.

ABBREVIATIONS

MC: main color

CC: contrast color

CO: cast on

WY: working yarn

k: knit

KO: knit off

sts: stitches

rnd(s): round(s)

w&t: wrap and turn (remove loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, wrap the peg from the inside of the loom to the outside. You will then knit in the opposite direction.)

BO: bind off

 

Pattern Notes:

The sample was worked in a freeform colorway style to enhance the feel of the freedom of summertime.

To make the socks match as closely as possible, work one sock normally and then when beginning the second sock, locate the spot on the yarn that resembles the same colorway as where the first sock was started and begin at this point.

All knits were worked as the true knit stitch or U-stitch, not ewrap.

The colorwork sections of this pattern are worked by using the stranded method.  Simply carry the yarn not being used behind the pegs.  When picking up the next color to be used, bring it up and over the previous yarn.  If the yarn not being used will be trailed across more than 3 pegs, make sure to twist it up and over the yarn being used so that the strand will be prevented from trailing too long, thus having the tendency to catch on toes.

*Tip: keep your two yarns being used at an even tension, being careful not to pull too tightly.

Colorwork Chart for 64 Pegs:

Semaphore Socks 64 Peg Color Chart

Colorwork Chart for 72 Pegs:

 Semaphore Socks 72 Peg Color Chart

 

INSTRUCTIONS 

Set knitting loom to 64 (72) pegs.  Using CC, CO in a clockwise direction to work in the round.

Cuff

Rnds 1-10: k.

Rnds 11-18(26): Using MC, k.

Continue to heel. (If you prefer a longer sock, repeat Rnds 11-18(26), until sock leg measures desired length, typically around 7-8 inches from cast on edge.)

Heel

The heel is worked using CC yarn and the short-row method over the first 33(36) stitches (takes place from peg 1 to peg 33(36).

The instructions for creating the short-row heel can be found at the end of pattern for both 64 and 72 peg versions.

If familiar with a short-row heel, simply follow the Heel and Toe Part I, decrease until there are 11(12) pegs unwrapped. Then follow Heel and Toe Part 2, increase back to a full 33(36) pegs.

Foot

Rnd 19(27): Skip peg 1 as it was just wrapped on the last short-row. Using MC yarn, k63(71).  (KO 3 over 1 on peg 33(36).

Rnds 20-28(28-36): k.  (KO 3 over 1 on peg 1 for first rnd.)

Rnds 29-36(37-44): Using both MC and CC, follow 8 rows of Colorwork Chart for the number of pegs being used.

Rnds 37-48(45-66): Using only MC, k. (Add additional rounds here if there will be additional length needed at the foot.)

Rnds 49-56(67-74): Using both MC and CC, follow 8 rows of Colorwork Chart for the number of pegs being used.

Rnds 57-66(75-84): Using only MC, k.

Toe

Repeat the same steps that you used to turn the heel, making sure to use the same pegs and side of the loom as before.

Remove the live stitches from pegs 1-32(36) and place them on one of the double pointed needles. Remove remaining 32(36) stitches (pegs 33-64(37-72) and place them on second double pointed needle.

Close the toe with the Kitchener stitch (see tutorial included in this post for instructions).

Weave in all ends. Block lightly.

 

Short-row heel (and toe) Instructions For 64 Pegs:

  • Knit from peg 1 to peg 32, w&t peg 33.
  • Knit from peg 32 to peg 2, w&t peg 1.
  • Knit from peg 2 to peg 31, w&t peg 32.
  • Knit from peg 31 to peg 3, w&t peg 2.
  • Knit from peg 3 to peg 30, w&t peg 31.
  • Knit from peg 30 to peg 4, w&t peg 3.
  • Knit from peg 4 to peg 29, w&t peg 30.
  • Knit from peg 29 to peg 5, w&t peg 4.
  • Knit from peg 5 to peg 28, w&t peg 29.
  • Knit from peg 28 to peg 6, w&t peg 5.
  • Knit from peg 6 to peg 27, w&t peg 28.
  • Knit from peg 27 to peg 7, w&t peg 6.
  • Knit from peg 7 to peg 26, w&t peg 27.
  • Knit from peg 26 to peg 8, w&t peg 7.
  • Knit from peg 8 to peg 25, w&t peg 26.
  • Knit from peg 25 to peg 9, w&t peg 8.
  • Knit from peg 9 to peg 24, w&t peg 25.
  • Knit from peg 24 to peg 10, w&t peg 9.
  • Knit from peg 10 to peg 23, w&t peg 24.
  • Knit from peg 23 to peg 11, w&t peg 10.
  • Knit from peg 11 to peg 22, w&t peg 23.
  • Knit from peg 22 to peg 12, w&t peg 11.

(Note: The following increase rows will require working all previous wraps and stitches together as one as the pegs are knit and w&t’d. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)

  • Knit from peg 12 to peg 23, w&t peg 24 (two wraps and a stitch on this peg)
  • Knit from peg 23 to peg 11, w&t peg 10 (two wraps and a stitch on this peg).
  • Knit from peg 11 to peg 24, w&t peg 25.
  • Knit from peg 24 to peg 10, w&t peg 9.
  • Knit from peg 10 to peg 25, w&t peg 26.
  • Knit from peg 25 to peg 9, w&t peg 8.
  • Knit from peg 9 to peg 26, w&t peg 27.
  • Knit from peg 26 to peg 8, w&t peg 7.
  • Knit from peg 8 to peg 27, w&t peg 28.
  • Knit from peg 27 to peg 7, w&t peg 6.
  • Knit from peg 7 to peg 28, w&t peg 29.
  • Knit from peg 28 to peg 6, w&t peg 5.
  • Knit from peg 6 to peg 29, w&t peg 30 .
  • Knit from peg 29 to peg 5, w&t peg 4.
  • Knit from peg 5 to peg 30, w&t peg 31 .
  • Knit from peg 30 to peg 4, w&t peg 3.
  • Knit from peg 4 to peg 31, w&t peg 32.
  • Knit from peg 31 to peg 3, w&t peg 2.
  • Knit from peg 3 to peg 32, w&t peg 33.
  • Knit from peg 32 to peg 2, w&t peg 1.

Peg 1 and Peg 33 still have wraps on them. Continue to the foot instructions. On the first round, pick up the wraps together with the stitch (3 over 1) as the next round is worked.

Short-row heel (and toe) Instructions For 72 Pegs:

  • Knit from peg 1 to peg 35, w&t peg 36.
  • Knit from peg 35 to peg 2, w&t peg 1.
  • Knit from peg 2 to peg 34, w&t peg 35.
  • Knit from peg 34 to peg 3, w&t peg 2.
  • Knit from peg 3 to peg 33, w&t peg 34.
  • Knit from peg 33 to peg 4, w&t peg 3.
  • Knit from peg 4 to peg 32, w&t peg 33.
  • Knit from peg 32 to peg 5, w&t peg 4.
  • Knit from peg 5 to peg 31, w&t peg 32.
  • Knit from peg 31 to peg 6, w&t peg 5.
  • Knit from peg 6 to peg 30, w&t peg 31.
  • Knit from peg 30 to peg 7, w&t peg 6.
  • Knit from peg 7 to peg 29, w&t peg 30.
  • Knit from peg 29 to peg 8, w&t peg 7.
  • Knit from peg 8 to peg 28, w&t peg 29.
  • Knit from peg 28 to peg 9, w&t peg 8.
  • Knit from peg 9 to peg 27, w&t peg 28.
  • Knit from peg 27 to peg 10, w&t peg 9.
  • Knit from peg 10 to peg 26, w&t peg 27.
  • Knit from peg 26 to peg 11, w&t peg 10.
  • Knit from peg 11 to peg 25, w&t peg 26.
  • Knit from peg 25 to peg 12, w&t peg 11.
  • Knit from peg 12 to peg 24, w&t peg 25.
  • Knit from peg 24 to peg 13, w&t peg 12.

(Note: The following increase rows will require working all previous wraps and stitches together as one as the pegs are knit and w&t’d. This can be up to 2 wraps and a stitch worked as one.)

  • Knit from peg 13 to peg 25, w&t peg 26 (two wraps and a stitch on this peg)
  • Knit from peg 25 to peg 12, w&t peg 11 (two wraps and a stitch on this peg).
  • Knit from peg 12 to peg 26, w&t peg 27 .
  • Knit from peg 26 to peg 11, w&t peg 10.
  • Knit from peg 11 to peg 27, w&t peg 28.
  • Knit from peg 27 to peg 10, w&t peg 9.
  • Knit from peg 10 to peg 28, w&t peg 29.
  • Knit from peg 28 to peg 9, w&t peg 8.
  • Knit from peg 9 to peg 29, w&t peg 30.
  • Knit from peg 29 to peg 8, w&t peg 7.
  • Knit from peg 8 to peg 30, w&t peg 31.
  • Knit from peg 30 to peg 7, w&t peg 6.
  • Knit from peg 7 to peg 31, w&t peg 32.
  • Knit from peg 31 to peg 6, w&t peg 5.
  • Knit from peg 6 to peg 32, w&t peg 33.
  • Knit from peg 32 to peg 5, w&t peg 4.
  • Knit from peg 5 to peg 33, w&t peg 34.
  • Knit from peg 33 to peg 4, w&t peg 3.
  • Knit from peg 4 to peg 34, w&t peg 36.
  • Knit from peg 34 to peg 3, w&t peg 2.
  • Knit from peg 3 to peg 35, w&t peg 36.
  • Knit from peg 35 to peg 2, w&t peg 1.

Peg 1 and Peg 36 still have wraps on them. Continue to the foot instructions.  On the first round, pick up the wraps together with the stitch (3 over 1) as the next round is worked.

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Delicious Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Digg Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Facebook Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Google+ Share 'Semaphore Socks' on LinkedIn Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Pinterest Share 'Semaphore Socks' on reddit Share 'Semaphore Socks' on StumbleUpon Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Twitter Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Email Share 'Semaphore Socks' on Print Friendly
Jun 20, 2016

Loom FAQs: What Are Selvages?

Loom FAQs

 

 

 

 

One of the most commonly questioned topics in loom knitting is edges.  How do I get my edges to match?  How do I keep my edges from curling?  How do I make pretty edges??  

While there are are different ways to keep those edges clean and pretty (some of these ways are discussed in Loom FAQs:  To Slip or Not To Slip?  and Loom FAQs:  Why Do Knits Curl?), there is one word that popped up that I never associated with knitting.  Only with sewing.  And that word is “selvage”.

So let’s talk edges and what they have to with a selvage.

What is a selvage?

A selvage is the edge of a woven fabric that will not unravel.  It is different from the rest of the fabric making a narrow border.  Usually is it a bit thicker than the fabric itself.

While most people are familiar with the selvages on fabric in sewing, a selvage can be knit on the edges of any flat panel project creating a nice, clean, slightly thicker edge.

The word selvage comes from the combining of the words “self” and “edge”.  The word originates in late Middle English of the mid 1400’s.

How do I work a selvage in knitting on a loom?

There are 2 different selvages that we will discuss:  double selvage and triple selvage.  Either one can be worked with any stitch pattern.  I will show each selvage on stockinette and on garter stitch.

Sometime this method is called an i-cord edge.

Each method is worked over 2 rows and repeated for the entire project.

Each method will be written first then demonstrated with pictures.

Before we get started, please do not read the written and think it is too hard.  Nothing is too hard.  Please remember that you just need to sit down and work it stitch by stitch.  Do not let the abbreviations intimidate you.  YOU CAN DO THIS!  I believe in you.

Abbreviations for written instructions:

k:  knit

p:  purl

s:  slip/skip

wyif:  working yarn in front

wyib:  working yarn in back

st(s):  stitch(es)

Double Selvage

Double selvage with stockinette stitch – front

 

 

 

 

 

 

Double selvage stockinette stitch - back

Double selvage stockinette stitch – back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Double selvage with garter stitch body

Double selvage with garter stitch body

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When working the double selvage on a flat panel, you will need to add 4 stitches to whatever stitch pattern you will be working, 2 for each side.

Written Instructions:

Row 1:  s1 wyib, k1, (work the row in desired stitch pattern until the last 2 pegs), s1 wyib, p1

Row 2:  s1 wyif, k1, (work the row in desired stitch pattern until the last 2 pegs), s1 wyib, k1

Repeat rows 1 – 2 for the length of the project.

 

Now for some photos…

Row 1:

sl1wyib

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 1:  slip the stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg, leaving the stitch on the peg unworked.

knit peg 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 2:  knit the stitch on the peg

 

Work desired stitch pattern until last 2 pegs.

 

slwyib

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to last peg:  slip stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg, leaving the stitch unworked

 

purl last peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last peg:  purl the stitch on the peg

 

Row 2:

sl1wyif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 1 on row 2:  slip stitch with working yarn in front (sl1 wyif) by lifting the loop off the peg, bringing the working yarn in front of the work, and replacing the loop back onto the peg.

 

knit next to last peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 2 on row 2:  knit the stitch

Work desired stitch pattern until last 2 pegs.

slwyib row 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to last peg on row 2:  slip stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg leaving the stitch unworked.

 

knit last peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last peg on row 2:  knit the stitch

 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for the entire project.

 

Triple Selvage

Triple selvage with stockinette stitch – front

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Triple selvage with stockinette stitch - back

Triple selvage with stockinette stitch – back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Triple selvage with garter stitch

Triple selvage with garter stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When working the triple selvage on a flat panel, you will need to add 6 stitches to whatever stitch pattern you will be working, 3 for each side.

Written Instructions:

Row 1:  s1 wyib, s1 wyif, k1, (work the row in desired stitch pattern until the last 3 pegs), k1, s1 wyif, p1

Row 2:  s1 wyif, p1, s1 wyib, (work the row in desired stitch pattern until the last 3 pegs), s1 wyib, p1, k1

 

Now for some photos…

Row 1:

sl1wyib

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 1:  slip the stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg, leaving the stitch on the peg unworked.

 

peg 2 sl wyif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 2:  slip the stitch with working yarn in front (sl1 wyif) by lifting the loop off the peg, bring the working yarn in front of the work, and replace loop back on peg leaving the stitch unworked.

 

knit peg 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 3:  knit the stitch

Continue with desired stitch pattern for the body of the work until the last 3 pegs.

 

2nd to last peg:  Knit stitch on peg (not shown)

 

slwyif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to last peg:  slip the stitch with working yarn in front (sl1 wyif) by lifting the loop off the peg, bring the working yarn in front of the work, and replace loop back on peg leaving the stitch unworked.

 

purl last peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last peg:  Purl the stitch on the peg.

 

Row 2:

 

sl1wyif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 1 on row 2:  slip the stitch with working yarn in front (sl1 wyif) by lifting the loop off the peg, bring the working yarn in front of the work, and replace loop back on peg leaving the stitch unworked.

 

purl peg 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 2 on row 2:  Purl stitch on peg.

 

sl back 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peg 3 on row 2:  slip the stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg, leaving the stitch on the peg unworked.

 

Continue with desired stitch pattern until the last 3 stitches.

 

slip back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2nd to last peg on row 2:  slip the stitch with working yarn in back (sl1 wyib) by bringing the working yarn BEHIND the peg, leaving the stitch on the peg unworked.

 

purl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to last peg on row 2:  purl stitch on peg

 

knit last peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last peg on row 2:  knit stitch on peg

 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for the entire project.

 

For those of you who like to find the patterns in life like I do, here is something that may help.

For the pegs that have knit stitches, the slipped stitch is in the back on the next row.

For the pegs that have purl stitches, the slipped stitch is in the front on the next row.

This is for the selvage only.  This will not apply for whatever stitch pattern used for the body of the work.

 

Well I hope you are as excited about selvages as I am!  Happy loom knitting!

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Delicious Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Digg Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Facebook Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Google+ Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on LinkedIn Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Pinterest Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on reddit Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on StumbleUpon Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Twitter Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Email Share 'Loom FAQs:  What Are Selvages?' on Print Friendly
Pages:1234567...21»

Our Buttons

Categories

Meet Zippy!

LKC Magazine

Loom Knitting Magazine