May 27, 2016

Silken Byways Handbag

Silken Byways Handbag-frontTraditional saris, woven with heavy silk and gold and silver cloth, are highly treasured and worn during special occasions and festivities within the Indian culture.

This vibrant and somewhat free spirited handbag is created using yarn made from recycled sari remnants…a wonderful way to enjoy the exquisite beauty of sari silk, with our more casual western ways in mind.

 

Loom:  Adjustable Hat Loom, 28 pegs in every other hole.

Yarn:  Approx 90 yards/143 g of bulky weight recycled sari silk ribbon yarn. Sample used SilkIndian Ribbon Yarn (1.5 skeins in the multi) 60 yds/100 g.

Notions:   knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, row counter, large decorative button, one tassel, one strap (sample uses a curtain tie-back cord).

Gauge: Approx 8 sts x 12.5 rows= 4 inches

Size:  7” high x 7” wide x 3.5” deep at base.

Abbreviations

Approx: approximately
sts: stitches
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
All knits are worked as E-wrap stitches throughout.  When working an EW with the ribbon yarn, be sure to wrap and knit off just one peg at a time.  Leave extra looseness in each wrap after knitting off, so that the following rows won’t be too tight to manage.

This pattern uses a Drawstring Cast On for ease in gathering the bottom of the bag.  Please see this helpful web tutorial for more details:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkTsM3WjKQU

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Set loom to work in the round using 28 pegs in every other hole.  Going in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE direction, Drawstring CO to all 28 pegs.

Rows 1-24:  Work very loose EW on all 28 pegs.

Row 25:  Basic BO pegs 1-14, EW pegs 15-28.

Row 26:  EW pegs 28-15.

**Note: The WY should now be on the left side of the pegs being worked. If it’s not, simply switch the diagram below to work as if a mirror opposite.

  

Row 27:  Using the peg diagram above, work the 2 left side decreases as follows:

  • *Move the loop from peg 2 to peg 3 and KO.
  • *Move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2.
  • *Basic BO peg 1.

*EW knit the remaining pegs in line. 

Silken Byways Handbag- close up edgeRow 28:  Basic BO first peg of row.  EW knit the remaining pegs in line.

Rows 29-33:  Repeat Rows 27 & 28.  When done, there will only be 3 pegs with loops remaining.

Row 34:  Basic BO first peg in row. EW and KO 4 times on peg 2 only.  Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3, KO.  Trim yarn and pull through loop.  Cinch tightly.

 

FINISHING

Pull tail at CO edge to gather until there remains a 2” opening.  Stitch this 2” opening closed so that it will lay flat and serve as the bag bottom.

Weave in all ends and trim any long threads from the ribbon yarn’s natural frays.  Feel free to stretch the bag and asymmetrical flap into shape.  The firm nature of the ribbon yarn allows for some adjustment of the knitting into the preferred form.

Stitch the button in place at the bag front just inside the button loop, along with the tassel, and handles of choice.

If desired, the bag can be lined, or it can be left in its natural state.

3 Comments

  • Is it possible to use any other type of loom? My hat loom pegs broke!

  • Oh no, Erin! I’m so sorry to hear that! :P This is one of the big reasons the pattern talks about making your stitches *very* loosely. But, as for another loom to use this project on, any one of a large gauge would do. Perhaps a loom with fixed pegs would be better for you. You might even try it on a Zippy, but you’d most likely need to line the bag after you’ve completed the knitting, as the stitches may have extra spaces between them. Best of wishes for your success! :)

  • Hi Erin, I would let the company know about the issue of your hat loom by email to info@knittingboard.com. They will be happy to discuss this with you.

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May 20, 2016

iPad Cozy

Ipad bag

Knit a fashionable iPad cozy to keep your iPad safe from bumps. The felted material also protects the iPad from unwanted spills.

LOOM:  Hat Loom, set at large gauge, at M size (40 pegs every other hole)

YARN:  Approx 275 yds of wool mohair blend bulky weight yarn. Lamb’s Pride Bulky in Cranberry Swirl (250yds) and Lime Sorbet (25 yds) was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, row marker (safety pin)

Other: Decorative button, approx 1/2″

GAUGE: 3.5 sts x 4 rows = 2 inches.

SIZE:  Pre-felted: 14.5″ W x  10.5″ H (including flap folded over the front)

Felted: 10″ W x 8″ H

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

Rep=Repeat

MC=Main color (Cranberry Swirl)

CC=Contrasting Color (Lime Sorbet)

INSTRUCTIONS Ipad Bag prefelted

Using MC, cast on 36 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: ewrap k to end of row.

Row 2: p to end of row.

Row 1 and Row 2=1 Garter Stitch ridge.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2, until you have 48 Garter Stitch ridges

Next row: ewrap k to end of row.

Next row, BO 2, p to end. (Place a row marker at this point).

Rep last 2 rows until 8 sets rem.

BO with basic bind off method.

Fold the panel so that the cast on edge lines up with the row that has the stitch marker. Using tapestry needle and MC, mattress stitch down the sides. Weave ends in.

I-cord for flap

Using CC, work a 3-stitch i-cord that is approximately 24 inches long. Using tapestry needle and CC, mattress stitch the i-cord to the tapered flap of the bag, starting at the beginning of the tapered edge, loop the end of the i-cord to form a loop, secure to the edge of the flap.

Button

After felting (see instructions below for felting), fold the flap over to see where to place the button. Sample shows button at the bottom right of the flap. Sew the button in place to the bottom part of the bag. Fold flap over, with a knife of scissors make an opening to the flap, big enough to allow the button to pass through.

Ipad Bag Open Prefelted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Assembly: using the mattress stitch, seam the icord to the cast on edge of the oven mitt. Create a small loop with the remaining icord (to use for hanging)

FELTING INSTRUCTIONS 

The magic in this knitting happens when you wash the untreated wool with hot water and the item shrinks, making the stitches smaller, and the fabric thicker.

You will need the following:

1 pillow case with a zipper

Safety Pin

2-3 jeans (to use in agitation)

Eucalan Woolwash or Baby Shampoo

Towels (to squeeze out excess water).

Top Loader Washer

INSTRUCTIONS

Place all items to be felted inside the zippered pillow case. Secure the zipper with the safety pin (to ensure the pillow case doesn’t open).

Set washer to Small load, and Hot temperature.

Place 1 tsp of Eucalan Woolwash or 1 tsp of Baby Shampoo.

Place the jeans inside the washer.

Place the pillow case inside the washer.

Start the washer. Check the washer again BEFORE it goes into the spin cycle. If the item is not the desired size, re-start the washer from the beginning (simply turn the knob back to the beginning of the wash). Place the pillow case back in the washer and let it go through another cycle, stopping the washer BEFORE it was through the spin cycle. Check again. If not desired size, repeat. *The above samples took 3 cycles.

Once the items are the desired size, remove the items from the pillow case. Take them to the sink. If you used Eucalan Woolwash, rinsing is not required. If you used Baby Shampoo, rinse in cold water. Do not wring the excess water. Place a towel on a flat surface, then place the felted item on top of the towel. Pat dry as much as you can.

Set the items to air dry, away from the sun. The sun may discolor the yarn.

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May 18, 2016

Plaid Rug from T-shirts

Designed by Lindsay Obermeyer

Rug_plaid

Needed

Size:  Rug 14″ x 22.5″ Each panel 7″ x 22.5″

Loom: All-n-One Loom or 28″ Loom, plus a set of loom extenders.

T-Shirts: 1 orange, yellow, peach, green and white t-shirts and 2 grey t-shirts with minimal text or graphics.

Notions: scissors, size J crochet hook, ruler, crochet cotton, such as Sugar and Cream in a color to match the t-shirts, Tapestry needle, ball headed pins

 

Panel one: Orange Plaid

Set up: make t-shirt loopies

©2016Obermeyer-t-shirt-loop-process

Fold the t-shirt in half , lining up the sleeves. Smooth out the wrinkles with your hand. Cut off the bottom band.   Measure and cut a 2” wide strip across the shirt through both layers. Trim off the seam ends. With the fabric still folded in half, cut a slit straight up the center until about a ¼ inch from the end. You now have 2 strips with slits up them. Round off the corners. Take one strip and pull it taught while holding onto each end. The strip will stretch, the edges will curl in and you now have a warp loopie.

Make 2 green warp loopies, 9 yellow and 9 orange warp loopies for a total of 20.

To make the weft loopies , Cut 8” x 2” strips of the t-shirt. (Use every scrap of the t-shirt, including sleeves). Fold each strip in half, cut a slit up the center and round off the edges.

Make 22 peach, 17 orange, 15 yellow weft loopies.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Warp the loom in the following color order 6 yellow, 1 green, 3 yellow, 3 orange, 1 green, 6 orange.

©2016LindsayObermeyerPlaidRug-weaving

Weft Color Pattern

Weave in a basic over and under manner the following color sequence:  5 orange, 1 green, 5 yellow 1 green 8 peach 1 green 6 orange, 1 green, 5 yellow, 8 peach, 1 green, 7 orange, 1 green, 5 yellow, 1 green, 7 peach.

Finishing / Binding off the fabric from the loom

When you finish weaving in the last strip, crochet bind off the fabric off of the loom. Use a J hook and lift the first loop on the top of the warp onto your hook, proceed and add the loop next to it. Then lift the first loop up and over the second loop, proceed to the third loop and place it on your hook, then take the 2nd loop and lift it up and over the third loop, you will continue in this fashion all the way around the loom, until only one loop remains on your hook. You will pull this loop and weave it into the structure of your weave using either your hook or a tapestry needle.

 

©2016Obermeyer-seaming-plaid

 

 

 

Seam your 2 pieces together with yarn and tapestry needle.

5 Comments

  • With the fabric still folded in half, cut a slit straight up the center until about a ¼ inch from the end. You now have 2 strips with slits up them—Do you have pics of this step? It’s a little confusing to me. =)

  • Thus reminds me of making potholders for my Mom @ the playground in summer. Thanks for the idea! :)

  • Hi Dana, Sorry we do not have pics of this step. I will send your question to the designer for you. Thanks.

  • Just a note for folks, was in Hobby Lobby the other day and notice they have T-shirt knit on a cone in different colors already cut. If anyone is interested.

  • Love this article. Your expertise is much appreciated. Thanks, Caroline

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May 16, 2016

Loom FAQs: What Is Laddering?

10940466_663261290449770_6723370072072730651_n

 

 

 

 

The first thing most people learn when learning to loom knit is how to work the e-wrap knit stitch.  Some people only use this stitch to create endless items.  It’s a very simple stitch that many prefer over the knit stitch or even learning the purl stitch.  Nothing wrong with that.  It is a knit stitch after all.  And an easy one.  Think I said that already.

But it has its drawbacks.  Beginners always have that same question when making hats or other items worked in the round.  Why do I have a large gap between the first and last stitch?  It only happens with e-wrap worked in the round.  Never with flat panels.  Why is that?  It really is a simple answer.  Let’s talk about the laddering effect.

What is laddering?

Laddering is that gap between the first and last stitch of a project worked in the round when using the e-wrap knit stitch when the entire loom is wrapped before knitting over.  It leaves the yarn between the stitches in horizontal lines that looks like a ladder.  Hence the name.

Here is an example of laddering:

Ladder effect with e-wrap knit stitch

Ladder effect with e-wrap knit stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why does it happen?

Laddering happens when all the pegs on the entire loom are wrapped then knit over.  This is due to each stitch getting looser has the bottom loop is lifted over the top loop.  It is actually on the round below, not the round just wrapped.  With the twist in the stitch, each stitch gets pulled a little when knit over making the next one a little looser when it is knit over.  And so on until you end the round with that extra between the first and last stitch.  By the time the last stitch is worked, there is enough of a gap to be noticed.

This is why it doesn’t happen with flat panels.  The extra bit that creates the ladder when working in the round ends up at the edge.

Sometimes this will not happen with bulkier yarns especially if the yarn is slightly bulkier than the loom gauge requires.

Is it due to tension?

Tension is not really the issue when it comes to laddering.  Some people like to use yarn guides or empty pens to make it faster to wrap the pegs.  This will not prevent laddering.  Laddering happens when knitting over, not how tight you wrap the pegs.

But why is mine laddering between all the stitches??

If using a smaller yarn weight than the loom gauge like using 1 strand of worsted with a large gauge loom, laddering will happen between each stitch with e-wrap whether in the round or a flat panel.  The twist in the stitch will keep the stitches from pulling together when off the loom.

Example of 1 strand worsted on large gauge loom

Example of 1 strand worsted on large gauge loom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This effect is sometimes desired for lacier projects.  But if it’s not desired, make sure the yarn weight matches the gauge of the loom.  Learn more on yarn weights and which gauge loom to use here.

How do I prevent laddering in my work?

The best way to prevent laddering is one not often preferred.  That is to wrap and knit over each peg as you go.  That way each stitch is exactly the same.  But most people prefer to wrap the loom first.  And that leads us to the next question.

Are there other ways to prevent it without working each peg as you go?

Some people say to start and stop at different pegs on each round.  That will work as long as those pegs that you are stopping at are not next to each other.  If you stop at the one before the last peg you stopped at on the previous round, the laddering will be on a diagonal instead of vertical.

If you wrap the pegs in shorter sections then knit over before going on to the next section, the amount of yarn that is made loose is not as much and therefore not as noticed.  If you wrap only 5 to 10 pegs at a time, the laddering effect will not happen.

Will it “fix” itself if left alone?

Yes.  Most times, if the item is given time to relax, the stitches will “fix” themselves, and the ladder will disappear.   Blocking will help too depending on the fiber used.

 

While I am not one to use e-wrap knit stitch very often, it is a wonderful stitch that can add texture or is just easy to work.  If you are ready to make that next step to a different knit stitch, please check out my article Loom FAQs:  Which Knit Stitch?

Until next time!  Happy loom knitting!

3 Comments

  • This is very good article. I will definitely add this to my “need to know” folder.

  • Thanks Jonnita.

  • Wrap and knit over each peg as you go is the only way I do Ewrap knit, both as flat panel and in the round. It makes a tremendous difference. I also use it as a cast on and the result is less loopy than the traditional Ewrap cast on. This method works great on hats too. Thanks for the great article.

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May 15, 2016

Springtime Yoga Bag

yogabag2Springtime is here! The birds are chirping, the sun welcomes us each morning with is warm rays. It is the perfect time to grab that yoga mat and head to the nearest park to enjoy a relaxing yoga class.

LOOM:  Hat Loom, set at small gauge, at XS size (56 pegs)

YARN:  Approx 250 yds of cotton worsted weight yarn. Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Nautical was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size D.

GAUGE: 7 sts x 12 rows = 2 inches.

SIZE:  Fits a 24” width yoga mat.  

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)

k2tog=knit two stitches together

YO=Yarn over (Ewrap the empty peg, on the following round, undo the ewrap and place this stitch in front of the peg and then work it as instructed (this pattern indicates to knit the peg)).

INSTRUCTIONS

Bag

Cast on 56 sts, join to work in the rnd.

Row 1: p to end of rnd.

Row 2: k to end of rnd.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: 2 more times.

Next rnd: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to end of rnd.

Rep last 2 rnds: 2 more times.

Next rnd: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next rnd: k to end of rnd.

Rep from ** to **: until panel measures: 24 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with gather removal method.

Strap

Cast on 7 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: Sl1, k to end of row.

Row 2: Sl1, p5, k1.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: until strap measures 30 inches long.

Bind off with basic bind off.

Secure strap to the bag.

Crochet cord

With size D crochet hook, crochet a chain that is about 24 inches long. Bind off. Pass the cord through the eyelet openings through the garter stitch border. Make a knot at each end of the cord.

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