Jan 16, 2017

Loom FAQs: How Do I Tighten The Cast On?

 

 

 

 

 

While there are lots of ways to cast on a project, the cast on we learn first is the E-wrap Cast On.  But most people do not like to use it because it is also the loosest cast on.  Which, of course, leads to questions…  Why is my cast on edge so loose?  How can I make it tighter?

Most will answer by saying “use a different cast on”.  There really is a cast on for every type of project.  And we all have our favorite cast on.  But most of those do have have enough stretch for some projects.

I want a stretchy cast on but the e-wrap cast on is still too loose making the edge messy!   Not a question but is still a cry for help.  Let’s get going on how to work a not-so-messy-tight-and-tidy e-wrap cast on!

How do I work an e-wrap cast on?

If you think that we are learning a new cast on, then you might be a bit disappointed.  You will not be disappointed in the outcome of this e-wrap cast on when finished though.

While most already know how to work an e-wrap cast on, there are some that need to make a small adjustment in order to get a cleaner finish.  And that small adjustment is how you use the slip knot to start.

If you are new to loom knitting, then here is how to work an e-wrap cast on.

First, make a slip knot.  But do not put it on the first or last peg depending on if you are working a flat panel or in the round.  You will want to use an anchor peg.  If your loom doesn’t have an separate anchor peg, then you will need to use an adjacent peg to put the slip knot on.  Then you will take it off after you get going on your project.  Just be sure to not use it as as a loop on the cast on.

Why can I not use the slip knot as the first loop?

Besides not having a knot in your work, you will not be able to completely finish tightening up the cast on if you use the slip knot as the first loop.

Flat Panel

If working a flat panel, most patterns are written so that the first row is worked from right to left.  That means that the cast on must be worked from left to right.

 

This is my Peg 1.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This will be the last peg for my flat panel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you have more pegs than being used, place the slip knot next to the last peg so you are starting your cast on on the last peg of row 1.

 

 

 

 

 

If you are using all the pegs on a round loom, then you will need to actually place the slip knot on the first peg.  Then start working the cast on to the right back around ending on the first peg.

In The Round

 

 

For hats and other projects worked in the round, place the slip knot on the last peg and then work the cast on from the first peg around from right to left.

 

 

 

 

 

How do you work the e-wrap cast on after the slip knot is placed?

 

 

Wrap each peg by bringing the working yarn around the back of the peg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to the front and around to the back again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then go the back of the next peg and wrap it in the same manner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue wrapping all the pegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pegs look like this when the cast on is finished.

 

 

 

And how the cast on looks from the top of the pegs.

 

 

Do I need to work the 1st row on a flat panel from right to left?  Or work from right to left when working in the round?  Why can I not go in the other direction?

Generally speaking, yes.  While most of use are more comfortable working only one direction, patterns are written this way for a good reason.  Consistency is one.  Also certain stitches like cables are written this way so the stitches can be worked correctly.

A lot of patterns can be worked either way.  But remember when you want to say it’s easier working in a certain direction:  when working a flat panel, you must work in both directions.  That cannot be avoided.

Therefore the sooner you start being consistent with working row 1 from right to left and always working in the round from right to left, the easier it will be to follow patterns that require it.

Do you work a row of stitches before starting row 1?

The e-wrap cast on is just that.  Every peg is wrapped once.  Once the number of pegs are wrapped, the cast on is complete, and row 1 is ready to be worked.

The cast on is NOT considered the first row.  It’s more like the foundation to get started.

How do I tighten the cast on so it’s not messy and loose?

While you can tighten the cast on while it’s still on the loom, I wait until it’s off the loom before starting.

Now is when the magic happens.

 

On a flat panel, start on the end opposite from the tail.   I hold my panel with the tail on the left side and work from the right to the left.

 

 

 

 

 

When working in the round, find the last stitch next to the tail which was the last stitch in each round.  Then you will work from the left to the right around the piece to the tail.

 

 

 

 

 

I will continue to demonstrate on a flat panel.

 

 

 

Find the first loop and with your fingers or loom pick,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

gently pull it snug from the edge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then find the next loop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and gently pull it snug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue with each stitch until you get to the tail.  With each stitch, the loop you are pulling will get bigger.

 

 

Then when the tail is reached, the loop itself will disappear as it’s pulled snugly.  This is why the slip knot is not used as a cast on loop.  You will not be able to tighten up that last loop with the tail if you used a slip knot.

 

 

 

 

The cast on will then be tidier but still stretchy.

 

 

 

I preferred the yarn over (double e-wrap) cast on for the longest time when I needed a cast on that is stretchy.  But now I prefer to tighten the e-wrap cast on instead.  It gives you more control over how tight you make the cast on edge but still has stretch.

I hope this helps so that everyone has a nice, tight, and tidy e-wrap cast on!  Happy loom knitting!

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Jan 8, 2017

Snowman Slipper Socks (for 18” dolls)

Whimsical Loom Knits – January 2017   Designed by Jenny Stark

The air is super frosty in this part of the world.  Surprise your favorite doll collector with some whimsical snowman slipper socks to keep their dolly’s toes warm and cozy.

Knitting Loom: KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Small amounts of worsted weight yarn in two different colors.  Samples include Red Heart Super Saver in Artists Print (CC) and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in White (MC).

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, needle and thread (for embellishments).

Embellishments: 4 black 7mm buttons, 2 orange 7mm buttons, small amount of black yarn for stitching mouths.

Gauge: 11 stitches & 18 rows = 2″ in stockinette stitch.

Finished Size: Fits 18″ dolls.

Special Techniques:

Wrap & Turn (W&T):  Lift stitch(es) on peg.  Wrap working yarn around the peg.  Replace held stitch(es) on to peg above the wrap just created.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Instructions

Using CC, Cast on 20 stitches. Join to work in the round.

Cuff: Rounds 1-4:  K2, P2 to end of round.  Cut CC.

Leg: With White (MC),  knit 4 rounds.

Short row shaping: Continue working with White (MC).

Knit pegs 1-9.  W&T on 10.

Knit pegs 9-2.  W&T on 1.

Knit pegs 2-8.  W&T on 9.

Knit pegs 8-3.  W&T on 2.

Knit pegs 3-7.  W&T on 8.

Knit pegs 7-4.  W&T on 3.

Knit pegs 4-8.  W&T on 9.

Knit pegs 8-3.  W&T on 2.

Knit pegs 3-9.  W&T on 10.

Knit pegs 9-2.  W&T on 1.

Knit pegs 2–20.

Knit pegs 1-20.

Foot: Continuing with White (MC), knit 14 more rounds.

Remove from the loom using the gathered removal method.

Weave in all ends.

Finishing: Create ‘eyes’ by stitching two black buttons on each slipper sock.

Make a ‘carrot nose’ by stitching an orange button on each slipper sock.

Create a ‘mouth’ on each slipper sock using the black yarn.

Weave in any remaining threads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wishing you much luck and happiness in 2017!

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Jan 2, 2017

Stitchology 28: Large Herringbone

**Pattern updated Jan 9, 2017 (specifically Row 5).

The stitch we’ll be working up this month is wonderful for its simple symmetry and lines.  The bold repeating herringbone pattern makes this a wonderful stitch for deep texture and coziness! Worked in this winter white, it makes me think of snow clad forest branches. I can visualize this being used for hats, sweaters, scarves, socks, you name it!  This would also work beautifully as a companion to the smaller herringbone published in the very first Stitchology column as interesting play of texture in any project.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here and here.

Large Herringbone Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight Wool (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in mochi)  

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16 sts—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

Abbreviations
approx: approximately
sts: stitches
rep: repeat
CO: cast on
k:  knit
p: purl
wy: working yarn
BO: bind off

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Repeating Pattern Rows

Row 1:  [k2, p2] rep twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1.

Row 2:  p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1.

Row 3: k1, p1, k2, p5, p2, k2, p1.

Row 4: k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1. k2, p2, k3.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p37.

Row 2:  k37.

Row 3:  p37.

Row 4:  k37.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, [k2, p2] twice, k1, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2.

Row 6: k3, *p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k1  rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: p2, *k1, p1, k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 8: *k5, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2,  rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Rows 9-56:  rep Rows 5-8.

Rows 57-59: rep Rows 5-7.

Finishing Rows

Row 60:  k37.

Row 61:  p37.

Row 62:  k37.

Row 63: p37.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

7 Comments

  • Looking at some of the past stitches in this series, I can see these knitting up as a wonderful sampler afghan. I am going to get started, so I can have a lovely afghan at the end of the year! This one looks great, and I can see myself making scarves, hats, shawls, and more out of it! Thank you!

  • Oh, that’s wonderful, Ruthie! Thank you so much for commenting and for taking part. I can’t wait to see your afghan! :D

  • Do you mean repeat twice or do the stitch pattern one more time? Just repeat?.Not repeat twice.
    I am confused

  • Hi, Ginny :)

    When you see sts placed inside brackets and then a number after…like twice…then it means to work those sts inside the brackets a total of 2 times. It might say after the brackets: 6 times, etc, but in this case it is only twice.

    Once those sts are worked the number of times listed, then you proceed to the next sts in the line of instructions for that row. Does that make better sense? :)

    Bethany~

  • Yes thanks

  • Row5 Main pattern row indicates 35 stitches
    On the break down after the k3 is there a P2 K2 (stitch row 21,22,23,24) then P2, K1.

  • Yes, you are correct, Ginny. :) The pattern has been corrected. Thank you…good eye!

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Dec 31, 2016

Sugar & Spice Scarf

Design by Bethany A Dailey

This spunky scarf is worked in a pattern of threes—three stitch styles and three colors all make for a delightful combination of fun textures and style!  Worked in double knit on the Zippy, this is a quick and satisfying project to whip up on your looms.

Knitting Loom: Zippy Master Set: 4 Zippy Looms, connected to use as a knitting board with 2 straight connectors and 2 regular connectors, 14 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 185 yards of super bulky #6 weight yarn. Sample used Red Heart Grande Yarn (MC: 2 skeins in Oatmeal, CC1: 1 skein in Orchid, CC2: 1 skein in Current, 46 yds/42 m per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)

Notions: knitting tool, 6.5 mm crochet hook (for help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, yarn needle, row counter.

Skills Needed: Double Knit Stockinette, Purl, Half Hitch CO.

Abbreviations:

MC: main color
CC1: contrast color 1
CC2: contrast color 2
CO: cast on
K: knit (in this case, all knits are worked as double knit stockinette)
P: purl stitch
St(s): stitches
KO: knit off
DKS: double knit stockinette
HHCO: half hitch cast on

 

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

This design is written with an extra long length for wrapping around the neck twice.  If a shorter length is desired, work only 2 repeats of the 4-color block pattern, rather than 3 repeats.

Half Hitch CO tutorial (This is for single knitting, but will explain the concept of the HHCO.)

Stockinette CO with a waste yarn tutorial

Double Knit Stockinette tutorial

 

Instructions

First Corner:

Connect Zippy looms to work in double knit with 14 peg pairs (2 sets of 2 looms connect to each other, then connect parallel to each other with the straight connectors).

Using CC 1, CO to 6 pegs (3 peg pairs) using Stocking CO with a waste yarn, centering them on the 14 pegs used on the loom.

Work 3 rows DKS.

At the end of the 3rd row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 4th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 4th row.

Work 1 more row of DKS on the 5 peg pairs.

At the end of the 5th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair.

Wrap half of the next row of DKS.  At the turning peg of the 6th row, add 2 HHCO loops onto the next peg pair. All 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) should now be filled. Continue to wrap and KO the rest of the 6th row.

Work 2 more rows of DKS on the 7 peg pairs.

Main Body:

Rows 1-6:  Using MC, rep the following 2 row pattern:

Row A:  P all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Row B: DKS all.

Rows 7-12:  Using CC2, DKS all.

Rows 13-18: Using MC, p all 14 pegs (7 peg pairs) working in the same wrapping pattern as DKS.

Rows 19-24:  Using CC1, DKS all.

Repeat Rows 1-24 three more times for a total of 4 repeats of the 4 color blocks.  **See pattern notes if a shorter scarf is desired.

Repeat Rows 1-6.

Last Corner:

Using CC2, work 3 rows DKS.

Move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 2 rows DKS on remaining 5 peg pairs (10 pegs total).

Again move the loops from the 2 outside peg pairs (4 pegs total) one peg pair inward toward the center of the loom.  Knit these 2 loops as one when working the next row.

Work 3 rows DKS on remaining 3 peg pairs (6 pegs total).

Working with just one of the loom rails, move the 3 loops from the peg pairs across to the 2nd half of the peg pairs on the other loom rail. There will now be 3 pegs with 2 loops each on just one side of the loom.  Set aside.

Finishing:

Holding one strand each of the 3 yarn colors (or the colors desired for braids), wrap them around the perimeter of the loom once and cut.  Pull these 3 strands through the loops of the last remaining loops in line on the loom.  Group them by twos and braid the yarn strands.  Make an overhand knot at the length desired.  Repeat this procedure for the CO loops with the waste yarn at the other point of the scarf.

The ends of the braids can be left with a length of tails for a tassel, or as the sample shows, pom poms can be sewn in place for extra embellishment.

Weave in all ends loosely, invisibly sewing through existing plies and stretching during weaving to help keep those large strands from unraveling.

 

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Dec 19, 2016

Loom FAQs: Why Are There No Loom Knit Magazines? Or… The DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia

 

 

 

 

 

Over and over I keep seeing the same question.  Why are there not any magazines for loom knitting?  Well that is a rather simple question to answer.  Because there is not enough interest.  Then that answer leads to But loom knitting is so popular right now!  Yes.  But not popular enough.

Years ago, I worked in the craft publishing industry.  And learned quite a lot about what it takes to publish books, magazines, and pamphlets.  Publishing companies do not want to invest in crafts that are not booming.  And yes.  There is a difference between popular and booming.

Just take a look at the number of published books on loom knitting.  In the scheme of things, there are very few compared to needle knit and crochet.  I own almost all of the published book on loom knitting.  I have a love of books and a “need” to own them.  There is just something about the feel and smell of a book…

But even with all the books we do have, some have different information than others.  Most only contain what information and instruction are needed for the projects in that particular book.  None of them contain everything.  Which leads me to the actual topic for today…  DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia.  What??  Yes!  Let’s just make our own encyclopedia of loom knitting.

Years ago, I started collecting all info regarding loom knitting.  I printed off EVERYTHING.  But then I needed a way to store and organize it.  And everything that I have learned about this I will share with you today.

Where do I find information for my DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia?

Well for starters, the Knitting Board blog is a great place to start for techniques, stitch patterns, projects, and more.  This blog is like a virtual magazine.  Each month there are articles, patterns, stitch patterns, etc., and it’s all free!  Lots of information just waiting to be printed off.

There are also lots of other websites that contain loom knitting information.  And then there are those books I mentioned.

But what about copyright?  How does that affect my DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia?

Following copyright laws is very important.  You can learn more about copyright in  Loom FAQs:  What is Copyright? Trademark?  But the one thing that I will reiterate here is the following.

A person can make a copy off of the internet for their own personal use.  Like for their personal DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia.

Also a person can make a copy of any book that they OWN for their own personal use.  No, you cannot make a copy of a loom knitting book at the library.  It is not considered a reference book so it is not allowed under copyright law.  But if you already own the book, you can make copies of pages that you need to put into your diy encyclopedia.  This way you can get all the instructions from those books all in one place.

What do I need then?

First of all, you will need a home printer/copier with lots of ink and printer paper.  Without that, you cannot even get started.  Got those?  Great!  Let’s continue…

3 Ring Binder

 

 

You will also need a 3 ring binder.  One large one if you want to put everything in one binder.  Or you can get the thinner ones if you want to divide up the information in separate “volumes”.  This option is great for people who like to be fancy by having a multi-volume encyclopedia.  Or for those that  just do not want to lug out a huge, heavy binder every time they want to look something up because they are not weight lifters.  Like me…

 

 

 

Plastic Sleeves

 

You will also want to invest in some plastic sleeves.  While I say “invest”, they really are not that expensive.  You can buy a package of 25 for approximately $5.  Or if you are like me and want put all the info you can find into a multi-volume set, packages of 200 plastic sleeves are about $20.  You can find them at office supply stores and even in the office supply aisle at your local discount store where you buy your 3 ring binders.

While you can just use a 3 hole punch on the paper, the pages will not last as long and sometimes even gets the holes over the printed part causing you to lose information.

 

 

Dividers

 

While you can buy dividers that that have the tabs already on them, I know from experience if you are using the plastic sleeves that the tabs will not stick out far enough on most of the 3 ring binder tab dividers.

There are tab dividers now that are plastic sleeve dividers.  This are wide enough but do cost just a bit more.

If you can find the tabs themselves that are not on dividers, then you can make your own with the plastic sleeves.

 

 

 

How do I assemble it?

First you need to print off the pages you want off the internet and copy the pages you need from the books that you own.

You will need to have some sort of idea of how you want to divide things up.  Such as a small binder for techniques with dividers for cast ons, bind offs, knit and purl stitch instruction, etc.

Maybe another small binder (unless you are putting everything into a big binder) for stitch patterns because you have printed off every one of Bethany Dailey’s Stitchology columns and want to have it in book form.

Or Jenny Stark’s Whimsical Loom Knits to go into the pattern section of your DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia with the other patterns you have printed off the KB Blog.

Don’t forget Loom FAQs!  Although you might want to sort those out into the different categories.

Can I print front and back of the paper?

While you can print on both sides of the paper in order to use less paper, I find that the ink does bleed through unless you have purchased higher quality printer paper.  I usually just use the paper I have and print on 1 side.  But that is entirely up to you.

Now what?

Slide the printed pages into the plastic sleeves.  If printing only on one side of the page, put 2 consecutive pages back to back before sliding them into the sleeve.

Then put them in the binder.  Simple as that!

If you bought the binders that have the sleeves on the front and side, you can then print off a “cover” and “spine” as well.

But most importantly, make it your own.  Get creative with your DIY Loom Knit Encyclopedia!    Put everything in it or just the things that are important to you.

Don’t forget!

Just remember that you cannot sell it or give it away.  It is for your own personal use only.

But what if I want to make one as a gift?

You can buy the items needed and assemble it but leave it empty of printed material to give as a gift.  But the recipient will need to print off their own pages to put into it.  Along with avoiding copyright violations, this way they can make it their own and in a way that is most helpful for them.

I hope this helps you create something that is useful to you and can be added to as more information becomes available.  Keep on loom knitting!

 

1 Comment

  • This is a fabulous idea! I love it, and will try to start compiling my own soon!

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Dec 15, 2016

Messy Bun Beanie

messy-bun-hat-bill

You have probably seen them all around social media, messy hair is in this season, as long as you sport a beanie, you will be in fashion. Now, this is for a messy bun as the opening is big enough to allow the messy bun to go through. 

This beanie has the option of adding a small bill.

LOOM:  Hat Loom set at large gauge with 42 pegs.
YARN:  Approx 80  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Malabrigo Rasta in Purple Mystery (100% merino wool, 90 yds per skein).
NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.
GAUGE: 4.5 sts and 8 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.
SIZE:  Fits adult (up to 21″ head circumference).

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately
k=knit stitch (note: the true knit stitch is recommended for this project with this type of yarn)
p=purl stitch
CO=Cast on
st(s)=stitch(es)
rnd(s)=round(s)
Rem=remain

messy-bun-hat-no-bill

BEANIE INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Hat Loom at large gauge with 42 pegs (largest size).

Cast on 42 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: k to end of rnd. (If you worked a Bill, on the first round, treat all loops on the pegs as one loop).

Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 11-14: p to end of rnd.

Rnd 15-19: k to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 11-19: 2 more times

Next 3 rnds: k to end of rnd (or until item measures 7.5 inches from CO edge).

Bind off using a crochet hook as follows: transfer all the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn. Insert crochet hook on last stitch (where the working yarn is located). Pass the crochet hook through the next stitch (two stitches are on the hook), hook the working yarn and pass it through both stitches. *Insert the crochet hook through the next two stitches, hook the working and pass it through both stitches. Rep from * all the way to the end, until all stitches have been crochet. On the last stitch, cut the working yarn leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch. Weave ends in. Steam block to soften the wool.

Video on this can be found at this link: https://youtu.be/KYZJ6gkuaVU?list=PL2-mSMyRmhzWmYWDaCNjuwaN3XGWp6E4B

BILL INSTRUCTIONS

CO 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2: Sl1, p to last st, k1.

Row 3: Decrease row as follows: Move loop from the second peg over to the third peg. Move loop from first peg to empty peg 2. At the other end of the loom, move the loop from the second to last peg to the third to last peg. Move the stitch on the last peg, to the second to last peg (it was emptied when you moved the stitch to the neighbor peg to the right). (18 sts rem).

Sl1, k to end of row.

Rep Rows 2 and 3: until 12 sts remain on the loom.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Do not block. The stiffness of the yarn will help the Bill stay up.

Place the CO edge stitches back on the loom (20 sts), then follow Beanie Instructions.

Have questions or comments, please feel free to contact Isela Phelps by leaving a comment below. 

 

 

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Dec 12, 2016

Miniature Christmas Sock

Whimsical Loom Knits – December 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

We Need a Little Christmas by Johnny Mathis has been on my mind today.  I hope this little project will bring a little holiday happiness to you.  Knit a little Christmas spirit with this cheery little sock and place it in your tree.  Or, fill it with a little present and gift a little Christmas to someone dear to you.

img_3686

Knitting Loom: KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Small amounts of worsted weight yarn in holiday colors.  Sample includes Vanna’s Choice in Cranberry, White, and Olive.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Finished Size: Approximately 2.5″ wide by 4.5″ long

 

Special Techniques:

Wrap & Turn (W&T):  Lift stitch(es) on peg.  Wrap working yarn around the peg.  Replace held stitch(es) on to peg above the wrap just created.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Basic Graft Cast Off:  See this tutorial.

Instructions

Using Cranberry, Cast on 24 pegs.

Cuff:

Rounds 1-6:  K2, P2 to end of round.

Leg:

Drop Cranberry to center of loom.  With White,  knit 4 rounds.

Drop White to center of loom.  With Olive, knit 6 rounds.

Drop Olive to center of loom.  Pick up Cranberry.  Knit 1 round.

Short row shaping:

Continue working with Cranberry.

Knit pegs 1-11.  W&T on 12.

Knit pegs 11-2.  W&T on 1.

Knit pegs 2-10.  W&T on 11.

Knit pegs 10-3.  W&T on 2.

Knit pegs 3-9.  W&T on 10.

Knit pegs 9-4.  W&T on 3.

Knit pegs 4-8.  W&T on 9.

Knit pegs 8-5.  W&T on 4.

Knit pegs 5-9.  W&T on 10.

Knit pegs 9-4.  W&T on 3.

Knit pegs 4-1o.  W&T on 11.

Knit pegs 10-3.  W&T on 2.

Knit pegs 3-11.  W&T on 12.

Knit pegs 11–2.  W&T on 1.

Knit pegs 2–24.

Foot:

Continuing with Cranberry, knit 4 more rounds.

Drop Cranberry to center of loom.  With White, knit 4 rounds.

Cut White, leaving a long enough tail for weaving in.  With Olive, knit 6 rounds.

Cut Olive, leaving a long enough tail for weaving in.

With Cranberry, knit 1 round.

Repeat short row shaping section.

Knit 1 more round with Cranberry.

Remove from the loom using the basic graft cast off.

eta – Weave in all ends.  Add an ornament hanger, if desired.

img_3687

Wishing you much joy and happiness this Holiday Season!

 

 

4 Comments

  • This is truly adorable, Jenny! :D Puts me in a very festive mood!

  • how do you unknit a row of stitches?

  • Thank you Bethany :)

  • Hi Maureen,

    I found a video tutorial that should be helpful to you. You can find it here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng3_yW33m1c

    I hope that helps. Have a great weekend!

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Dec 5, 2016

Stitchology 27: Little Pines

little-pines

Last December we learned a stitch using cables that formed a forest of Evergreens.  It seemed fitting to celebrate the entrance the holidays with another iconic wintry designthis time using eyelets to form majestic pine boughs. Even though this stitch is a 16 row repeat, once you get the hang of how the rows flow, they can be worked entirely from memory.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Little Pines Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Clary)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes

It really helps to use a yarn with a high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help open up those eyelets and make the bottom edge straight.

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 18—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your eyelets will not be visible, unless you untwist the e-wrap before working into the next row. ;)

To work a S2KP (or: s2tog, k1, p2sso), please see the following instructions:

* Keep in mind that these steps are all accomplished on the same three pegs, worked from right to left: 3, 2, 1.

*  The instructions in brackets [ ] are simply to break the meaning of the abbreviations down to the simplest knitting terms, with the instructions on how to work them on the loom listed directly after. 

    • 1. [Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit 2 stitches together]: for this step, move the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2 and carry the yarn behind pegs 1 & 2 to peg 3.
    • 2. [Knit 1]: knit the stitch on peg 3.  *See Note Below.
    • 3. [Pass the 2 slipped stitches one at a time over the stitch just knitted and drop them]: for the this step, move the stitch on peg 3 to peg 2. Lift the 2 loops one at a time over the top loop.  **See Note Below.

*Note: Work Step 1 once the yo peg has been reached while working row.  After Step 1 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed before the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

**Note: After Step 3 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed after the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: *yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, rep from *.

Row 2 and all even Rows: knit all sts.

Row 3: *k1, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k10, rep from *.

Row 5: *k2, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k11, rep from *.

Row 7: *k3, yo, S2KP, yo, k12, rep from *.

Row 9: *k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, rep from *.

Row 11: *k10, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k1, rep from *.

Row 13: *k11 yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k2, rep from *.

Row 15: *k12, yo, S2KP, yo, k3, rep from *.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)  For ease of working the pattern, place a marker on pegs 10, 19, and 28.  These will be your S2KP pegs.

little-pines-frontSet Up Rows

Rows 1-6: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: p37

Row b:  k37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 7:  p4, k1, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k1, p4.

Row 8 & all even numbered Rows: k37

Row 9:  p4, k2, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k2, p4.

Row 11:  p4, k3, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k13, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k3, p4.

Row 13:  p4, k4, yo, S2KP, yo, k15 sts, yo, S2KP, yo, k4, p4.

Row 15:  p4, k10, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k10, p4.

Row 17:  p4, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, p4.

Row 19:  p4, k12, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k12, p4.

Row 21:  p4, k13, yo, S2KP, yo, k13, p4.

Rows 23-61: repeat Rows 7-22.

Finishing Rows

Rows 62-67: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k37

Row b:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  This square was blocked quite thoroughly to really help the eyelets open and the stitches pop.  It was gently washed by hand, left to soak for a while, then the excess water was squeezed out by rolling and pressing the square inside a towel.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

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4 Comments

  • I just wanted to say thank you for all the work you do with your stitchology monthly column. I haven’t had the time to make them all yet but I appreciate the work you put into them! This one is perfect for the holidays!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Christine! That means a lot! I’m so glad you have been enjoying them. :)

  • I wish you could state what pegs are what in the video. I am blind and when people do videos sometimes blind people watch. It is very hard to figure out what peg you are talking about when you say this peg and point to it.
    I love this stitch and wish II could make it.
    thank You. Judy

  • Hi Judy :)

    This is very interesting and I will try to keep this in mind for the next time I do a video. Since the video is meant to simply be an aid to the written pattern, I hope that if you follow the words written, the technique will make more sense to you. If you have any questions at all in how to work the stitch, please feel free to ask right here! :)

    Bethany~

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Dec 4, 2016

Snow Kisses Shawl

shawl-2

Envelope yourself in a whisper soft shawl this holiday season.

LOOM:  All-n-One Knitting Loom

YARN:  Approx 750 yds of merino wool worsted weight yarn.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Blue Skyes (3 skeins)  was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool.

GAUGE: 8 sts and 14 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.

SIZE:  Approx 24” x 52″ (suggest to steam block).

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

p2tog=purl two stitches together

yo=yarn over

rep=repeat

shawl-5

INSTRUCTIONSchart

CO 106 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: p3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Rep Row 11 and Row 12: until item measures approx 50”

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: k to end of row.

Rep last two rows, 4 more times (total of 8 rows).

BBO.

Steam block or wet block.

shawl-3

Continue reading »

8 Comments

  • This is so lovely, Isela! :) I love the color and the simplicity of the stitch…so elegant.

  • This shawl looks so pretty! I can’t wait to start! Just to verify when I knit the pegs can I ewrap or did you use another knit stitch? Thank you for the pattern and your time.

  • This is a beautiful piece of knitting. Thanks for sharing. Laura

  • The Knit stitches were regular knit stitches, not Ewrap.

  • You are welcome

  • Thank you! :)

  • Does this pattern use one strand or two?

  • June, it uses 1 strand throughout the pattern.

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Nov 28, 2016

Loom Weaving: A Little Handmade Holiday

WovenGiftTagWith the holidays approaching, it’s fun to add a little handmade surprise to your gifts. Today I’ll show you how to make a little weave with a simple snowflake embroidery that can be used as a tag on a gift and later used as a little decoration. The best part of this small project is you can use any extra yarn that you might have left over!

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in white is used for the warp. Along with a hand-spun Merino wool thick n’ thin in color Antler from AmandaJFrench on Etsy is used for the weave. The embroidery is done with Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in metallic gold.

Notions: tapestry needle

Small Weave Pattern Steps:

Set up your weave as described here. Double knot your warp thread on pin #4 from the bottom left. Warp your loom so that 8 pins are warp across the top and 9 pins are warped on the bottom, which includes your beginning double knot and your ending double knot of the warp thread.

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Take a length of white warp thread, about 8 inches long and plain weave it between the warp threads. Pull so both ends of the thread is even on both sides and the thread is sitting up against your loom pegs. Tie the two ends together in a knot. This is what will be used as your tag string.

Step 2: Using one thread of your thick n’ thin, soumak weave (looping around each warp thread) across the first row.

Tip: Weave your soumak a few inches down your warp threads, then push it up all the way to the top so that it is touching your loom pegs. This will give your hands room to weave.

Step 3: For the second row, weave your thick n’ thin yarn in a plain weave. Continue weaving the plain weave so that you have 15 rows of plain weave.

Step 4: Finish your tiny weave with the last row being soumak (looping around each warp thread) all the way across.

WovenGiftTagStep 5: Secure your yarn ends in the back of the weave.

Step 6: Add the embroidered snowflake (steps below).

Embroidery Steps:

Using your weave as a grid, there are 16 warp threads across the top and 17 weft rows down the side. I have numbered the weft threads and the plain weave weft rows (don’t count the soumak rows) for the embroidery pattern.

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Use your gold thread with your tapestry needle. From behind the weave, bring the gold thread up at plain row #4/ warp #4. Pull it diagonally down to row #12/ warp #13 and bring the gold thread through the front of the weave to the back.

Step 2: Bring the gold behind the weave then up at row #4/ warp #13. Pull it diagonally to down to row #12/warp #4 and pull the gold thread through to the back of the weave.

Step 3: Bring the gold behind the weave then up at row #8/ warp #4. Pull it across row #8 to warp #13 and pull it through the to the back of the weave.

Step 4: Bring the gold thread behind the weave then up between warp #8 & #9/ row #4. Pull the thread down warps #8 & #9 to row #12 and pull it through to the back of the weave.

Step 5: Your snowflake is now complete. Secure your gold thread ends in the back of the weave.

Finishing the Small Weave Steps:

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Cut the bottom warp threads about 5 inches from the bottom of the weave.

Step 2: Gently lift the top warp loops off the pegs.

WovenGiftTagStep 3: Flip your weave over to the back. Taking two of the bottom warp threads, tie them in a double knot together. Continue this until all bottom warp threads are tied off.

Step 4: Secure the warp threads in the back of the weave, then trim the excess.

WovenGiftTagYour small weave gift tag is now complete and ready to personalize your gifts!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom (a blog dedicated to helping others learn to weave)

1 Comment

  • I was wondering if anyone has loom pattern for a archers hoodie? I have also seen it called a Katniss “hunger games” hoodie….

    I AM BRAND NEW TO LOOM KNITTING,lol
    However, the hooded pixie cowl pattern in the chunky grey is exactly what I want with the addition of one armed diagonal body ….
    If anyone could help If appreciate, thank you
    Lias / w.lm@yahoo.com

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Nov 21, 2016

Loom FAQs: What is a Lifeline?

Loom FAQs

 

 

 

 

 

I cannot count the number of times I have seen the question asked How do I save my work now that I have made a mistake?  Or the emphatic statement of defeat It is ruined.

And the answer every time is You should have used a lifeline.

Which always leads to more questions…

But what is a lifeline?  How do I use a lifeline?  Do I need to put on in BEFORE I start knitting?  Can I put in AFTER I start?  What do I need to use for a lifeline?

What is a lifeline?

You are sitting there loom knitting one day, and you see a mistake you made several rows back.  OH the HORROR!!!  Then you yell out to your best friend, “Hey, Betty Sue!  My work has a hole!  I’m sinking fast!  Throw me a lifeline!”  That is when Betty Sue looks at you like you have lost your ever loving mind.  Because Betty Sue knows that is not the way a lifeline in knitting works.  And because Betty Sue is a cat…

If that is not how a lifeline works, then what exactly is it?  Well it is a safety line that will help save your work.  It is a piece of yarn that is run through all the stitches to hold them so that your stitches are safe if you need to rip your work back to that point and can be easily put back on the loom.

When do I need a lifeline?

There are different reasons to need a lifeline.  Maybe you are working on a complicated stitch pattern and just want to make sure you have that added protection so you can take the work out if you make a mistake without losing the entire piece.  Or maybe you are wanting to remove your work from the loom because you are decreasing or increasing and are needing to adjust your loom size when using the All-n-One loom or needing to change the loom entirely.

What is the best lifeline to use?

The best lifeline to use is yarn or string that is as follows:

– the same or smaller weight yarn than the yarn you are using so that it will easily go through the stitches

– a contrasting color from your work so it is easy to see

– a fiber type that will easily slide through the stitches like a microfiber or nylon

That last if very important if you are using mohair or another fiber type that easily gets tangled with itself.  Otherwise, if you are using a well spun acrylic, then you can just use acrylic of another color.

Do I need to put it in BEFORE or can I add it LATER?

While it is easier to put in a lifeline before you need it, you can add one later.  Adding it later can be trickier especially if it’s a more complex stitch pattern like cables or lace.  In the case of cables or lace, it is always better to put it in first.

How to place a lifeline BEFORE needing it

When using a lifeline before you need it, you will need to check your work periodically for errors.  If you do not find one, then you will remove the lifeline and place it again where you are.  That way if there is a mistake then you do not need to take it out quite as far.

You will first need to cut your chosen lifeline yarn several inches longer than the work is on the loom.  If you are working in the round, use a piece that will wrap around the loom twice.  If working a flat panel, use a lifeline that is twice the length of the pegs being used.  Or just wrap that yarn around the loom twice no matter if it’s in the round or a flat panel.  If using the afghan loom or another type of figure 8 shape loom, follow the pegs with the yarn around it once then cut it twice as long.

Now you will need to run that lifeline through each stitch on the loom.  There are 2 ways to do this.

You can thread your lifeline on a tapestry needle and run the needle through each stitch.

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you can just use your loom pick to pull the lifeline through each stitch.  This is my favorite method.

1

 

I like to pull it from the bottom of the loop like a purl but it can be done from the top like a knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

 

 

Be sure and pull the lifeline to the side and back of the peg before going to the next stitch.

 

 

 

 

5

 

Now the lifeline is running through each stitch but behind the peg so it will not interfere with your next row of work.

 

 

 

 

Once you have the lifeline place, you will continue with your work ignoring that extra strand.  When you know you haven’t made a mistake after working several inches of work, remove the lifeline by simply pulling it out.  Then put it back in the stitches that are on the pegs and start again.

How to place a lifeline AFTER needing it

Like I said previously, some stitch patterns are very hard to add afterward.  But if you are just working something simple like stockinette and discover something weird that you have no clue how you did but want to fix, you can add a lifeline into the work a couple of rows below the offending place.  Then you can rip the piece back to that point and easily place the work back on the loom and start again.

You will need to use a tapestry needle for this so thread your chosen lifeline into that needle and let’s get started!

9

 

Find the edge stitch and run the needle though one side a few rows below the mistake.  If it’s worked in the round, start with the stitch that was worked on peg 1 so the starting stitch will still be the same when placed back on the loom.

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

Then run the needle through the next stitch making sure you are staying on the same row.

 

 

 

 

 

 

12

 

 

This is what it will look like when all the stitches are on the lifeline.

 

 

 

13

 

Then you pull the previous stitches out until all you have are the stitches on the lifeline ready to be put back on the loom.

 

 

 

I hope this helps save some projects from being completely ripped out due to mistakes being found later.  We have all done it and lost projects that we tried to save.

Lifelines are truly a life saver!  And Betty Sue won’t be giving you that look…

Happy loom knitting!!

1 Comment

  • We’re writing to let you know of a new website that is launching in the coming weeks.

    http://www.k3tog.com

    We’re a knitting community hosting knit-a-longs, tutorials, patterns, and a community space for knitters to become friends and help one another (or vent as the situation calls for)

    We plan on featuring a knitter/designer a month and would love for you to contribute (a pattern, yarn, whatever you’d like!)

    We please ask if you could let your followers know we exist! It would be greatly appreciated.

    Looking forward to having you as a member of the k3tog community

    The k3tog team
    – Kendra and Sarah

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Nov 20, 2016

Morgaine’s Capelet

morgaines-capelet-5

LOOM:  Master Zippy + 2 Zippy Looms

YARN:  Approx 264  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Knit Picks Tuff Puff in Silver yarn was used in sample (100% wool, 44 yds per skein).

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle, crochet hook size M.

OTHER:  Button 1-3/8”  (34mm)

GAUGE: 6 sts and 8 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  57” x 18”

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

W&T=Wrap and Turn: Take working yarn to the front of the peg and then take the yarn to the back and around the peg, working yarn ends to the front of the peg. wrap-and-turn

 

RT=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Knit peg 2.

LT=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

RTP=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Purl peg 2.

LTP=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Purl peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

morgaines-capelet-back

Short-Row Wedge Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K pegs 15-23. W&T peg 24.

Row 3: K from peg 23-15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-21. W&T peg 22.

Row 5: K from peg 21-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-19. W&T 20.

Row 7: K pegs 19-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-17. W&T peg 18.

Row 9: K pegs 17-15. P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K peg 15. W&T peg 16.

Row 11: K peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K from peg 15-26 (working the wrap and the stitches together).

Regular Segment Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K to end.

Row 3: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 5:. K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 7: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 9: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K to end.

Row 11: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K to end.

morgaines-capelet-6

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy loom as shown below (total of 6 Zippy and 4 corners, 28 pegs).

zippy-with-6-zippy

 

Cast on 26 sts from right to left (first row will be from left to right), prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: (from left to right) k to end of row

Row 2, 4, 6: p to end of row

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 36 rows: Work three Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 3 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Ribbed Neckline-done in two panels

Panel 1:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 26 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Panel 2:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 24 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row  1-6: *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Assembly

Lay the capelet flat, right side up.

  1. Starting on the left and using long tail from Panel 1, mattress stitch seam panel 1 to the neckline area of the capelet (as shown below).
  2. Pick up Panel 2 and mattress stitch seam it to the remaining neckline area of the capelet.
  3. Mattress stitch both panels together (at the center where Panel 1 ends and Panel 2 begins).assembly-of-the-capelet
  4. Attach button to left side of capelet, about ½” from the neckline.
  5. On the right side of the capelet, so it aligns with the button, create a button loop by crocheting 6 chains.

Weave all ends in. Steam block.

Continue reading »

2 Comments

  • Could we have a video on how to put this together
    I need a visual on this
    And what is a whip stitch?
    I am new to this

  • You mean a mattress stitch? The mattress stitch is a way to seam panels invisibly.

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Nov 15, 2016

Loom Knit & Win

The holiday season is upon us! We have a contest for you and a chance for you to win a $50 KB gift certificate!

We want to see all your KB holiday theme loom knits!

How to enter: Loom knit a holiday theme knit on your KB loom. Submit a picture* to our Facebook page.
Find the Holiday Contest post (it should have the graphic below. In the comments area of the post, post a picture of your submission. Remember, it must have been knit on a KB loom. Tell us a little bit about your knit on the comment–knitting loom you used and yarn.

Deadline: December 15, 2016, midnight MST

Prizes:
Grand prize: $50 KB Gift Certificate
Second Prize: $25 KB Gift Certificate
Third Prize: $10 Gift Certificate

*All entries (photos) will be collected and displayed on our blog at the end of the contest. 

zippy-holiday-contest

3 Comments

  • I love your product sock loom so much that I purchase three of them as gifts. Two of them were destroyed in a domestic violence dispute with my former fiancé. I was so heart broken that he doesn’t recognize the achievements of American made socks, shoes, gloves, & toys that my daughter Ms. Xiomara & I started working on our own designs to piss him off. My daughter and I are so grateful to join your customer base and develop new patterns. Keep us in your thoughts and good intentions always. Thank you for the wonderful creative & practical learning activity that we can do together. Details at http://www.moink.shutterfly.com. Thank you again http://www.linkedin.com/in/yillescas & http://www.linkedin.com/in/millescas

  • Hi, I’ve been trying to post a picture of my Christmas knitted items in the Facebook contest post, but I can’t find the button to post the picture.

  • You can try again. I think we have fixed the issue.

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Nov 14, 2016

Simple Shrug for 18″ Dolls

Whimsical Loom Knits – November 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

You can quickly create this project for your favorite little 18″ doll fan.  Your little doll lover will have so much fun keeping their dollies warm with this soft, snuggly shrug.

img_3669img_3671

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn.  Suggested yarns include:  Mohair Metallic by Buttercream Luxe Craft or Mohair Mountain by Universal Yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, tape measure.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Techniques

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3677

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3675

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a long yarn tail.  Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 14 pairs of pegs:

img_3674

Double knit using the duplicate zigzag stitch until you have a panel measuring 16″ in length.

img_3663

Bind off.  Leave a long yarn tail.

Fold one end of the panel over.

Create a sleeve:  Use the long yarn tail to sew the two edges together, making a seam measuring 3.5″ in length.  Weave in the yarn end.

img_3668

Repeat this process on the other end of the panel, creating the second sleeve.  Weave in the yarn end.

Slip the shrug onto an 18″ doll and you’re all done with your super simple snuggly shrug <3

img_3670

 

2 Comments

  • This is so cute!!! I love the hat, too!! Is there a pattern for that, too?

  • Thank you Catherine. I am so glad you like it. I don’t have a pattern for the hat at this time, but I will work on one and let you know when it is ready :) Have a great weekend!

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Nov 10, 2016

Fairhaven Poncho

Fairhaven Poncho

Introducing one of the snuggiest ponchos to ever grace the knitting world!  It is created with #7 Jumbo Weight yarn, worked in ribs and twists which serve to bump the warmth and coziness of the piece to incredible levels.  This is for all those times it would be so nice to stay snuggled inside a blanket wherever the day may lead!

Items Needed

LoomZippy Looms assembled to allow for 52 pegs— can be 12 Zippy looms, with 4 Zippy corners, or 13 Zippy looms in a row…can also be knit with only 10 Zippy looms with 4 corners, or 11 Zippy looms in a row, if the side panels are worked separately and then seamed into place during finishing.

Yarn: approx. 440 yards #7 Jumbo Weight (Sample uses 9.5 skeins of Red Heart Grande in Wisteria, 46 yds per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)  **Note: it is suggested to use a yarn with a wool blend to help in blocking the pullover to the desired size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size:  This design is either very stretchable or has more swing, which allows for just about all women’s sizes. This is why using a wool/wool blend yarn for blocking to the size desired is helpful.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, knitting pins and blocking pins)

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
rt2: right twist over 2 stitches
lt2: left twist over 2 stitches
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:

There are a couple different options for this design.  It can be worked as a longer poncho pullover as is shown in the photos by simply following the instructions as written.  To work this pattern a little shorter, such as for a caplet or shoulder pullover that ends at just about the elbows, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart for only one of the 20 row repeats, ending with Row 22, rather than the two as written, Proceed to the Neck Shaping rows beginning at Row 43.  Also, the arm holes are not added during seaming.

If working with a shorter loom assembly is desired, the side panels can be worked separately from the back panel. Just keep in mind that this will add more seaming to the project during the finishing steps. For the number of Zippys required for this vs. the entire back panel + side panels, see the Loom section above.  When working the side panels separately, follow the instructions for the first 6 sts, and then the last 6 sts of the Back & Side Panels section.  The back panel will be worked on all pegs in between those 12 sts.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  All cable rows are worked from the Left to the Right. They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Front Panel

Set up Rows:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Row 1:  p2, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2:  k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to end of row.

Main Pattern Rows:

Rows 3-5:  repeat Rows 1 and 2, ending with Row 1.

Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 7:  p2, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 11:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Fairhaven Pullover, backRow 12:  k1, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 13:  p3, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 14:  k1, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k1, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 17:  repeat Row 1.

Row 18: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 3-22.

Neck Shaping:

Row 43:  p2, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, BO 2 sts, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p2.

Row 44: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [lt2], BO right st of lt2. Drop yarn from skein 1 and add another skein to the 2nd half of the panel: [rt2], BO left st of rt2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 45:  p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 2 and pick up yarn from skein 1: BO 1 st, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2,, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 46:  k1, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 1 and pick up yarn from skein 2: BO 1 st, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 47:  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 2.  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 1.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

 

Back & Side Panels

**Note: See Pattern Notes for details on working these three panels separately with fewer Zippy looms.

Set up Rows:

Rows 1-5:  p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1.

Main Pattern Rows:

Row 6:  k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 7:  p7, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.

Row 8: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 11:  p7, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p7. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 12:  k6, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 13:  p8, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 14:  k6, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k6, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 17:  repeat Row 11.

Row 18: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Fairhaven Pullover, side/backRow 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Row 23:  repeat Row 11.

Row 24:  k6, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 25:  repeat Row 11.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 6-25.

Back Shaping:

Row 43:  p7, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p7.

Row 44: k6, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 45:  p7, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p7.

Row 46:  k6, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 47:  p6, BO 9 sts (to peg 15), k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1,  BO 9 sts (to peg 40), p6.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood

Prepare to work just the center 16 pegs to continue the cable pattern up through the center of the hood.  The side pieces will be picked up later and can either just stay on the loom, or can be safely removed onto stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn for safe keeping.

Row 48:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 49:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 50:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 51:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 52:  k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1.

Row 53:  k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Row 54:  k1, p2, work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p2, k1.

Row 55:  repeat Row 53.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 56:  k1, p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], p1, k1.

Row 57:  repeat Row 51.

Row 58:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 59:  repeat Row 49.

Row 60:  repeat Row 48.

Row 61:  repeat Row 49.

Row 62:  repeat Row 50.

Rows 63-65:  repeat Row 51.

Row 66:  repeat Row 58.

Row 67:  repeat Row 49.

Rows 68-87:  repeat Rows 48-67.

Bind off these 16 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood Side Panels:

Working on the 6 side panel sts on the left, place live sts back onto the loom if needed, and work as follows:

Rows 1-20:  repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: k6.

B: p6.

Row 21: k6, CO to 2 additional pegs (these will be on the side closest to the center cable panel).

Rows 22-51: repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: p8.

B: k8.

Fairhaven Pullover, 3Bind off these 8 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Repeat for the right side panel, making sure to CO the extra 2 sts toward the center cable panel.

Finishing

Invisibly seam the side hood panels to the center hood panel, keeping even throughout. Using knitting pins will help with the seaming. When the side hood panel narrows to 6 sts, the shoulder should have been reached.  Seam the back shoulder area closed smoothly.  In order to achieve the raised chain look that the sample shows, stitch the side panel just a bit underneath the BO at the shoulders.

Beginning at the bottom, invisibly seam the front panel to the side panels, keeping the area of approximately 15 rows at the center of the horizontal running cables open for arm holes.  Make sure the two sides are stitched evenly so that the pullover lays smoothly and is balanced.  Continue to seam all the way to the outside edges of the center “V” at the neck edge.  To achieve the raised chain look, repeat the procedure of stitching the side panel just underneath the BO edges at the shoulders.

Finish ends and trim close to work.  For this almost rope-like yarn, it is sometimes difficult to weave in securely.  Feel free to tie the joining yarn ends into square knots. Stretch the knitting as the ends are woven in to help ensure they don’t come loose.

Block thoroughly so that the cables “pop” and the size is as desired. (Sample uses steam blocking)

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

 

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8 Comments

  • That is lovely hon.

  • Thank you, Monique! :D

    Bethany~

  • The cables on this look beautiful!

  • Oh, thank you, Christine! :) They are just simple 2 peg twists, but provide a big wow factor, right? Especially in this Zippy gauge.

    Bethany~

  • Hi I am a little confused about the cast on of 41 pegs when I follow the pattern.
    I’m some how going over to 43 pegs I have done this 4 times and each time when I follow from *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from *
    If I go 2 times is to short and leaves a long ways to the end of the 41 pegs
    and 3 times is to long when adding the end p1. Going past the cast on.
    I hope you can make sense of what I mean and maybe see my mess up. I apologize for the inconvenience I’m stumped and I usually better on videos. I’m hoping you can see wher I am making a mistake I configured the zippy loom set as directed.
    Thanks Chyre

  • Hi Chyre :) Thank you for your question! Yes, the CO really is 41 pegs. The confusion comes from the “repeat to last stitch”. You will be literally repeating those sts until you reach the last peg in line, which then will be a purl. It is not a full repeat on that last time…you just repeat until the last peg is reached. ;)

    I believe this may be the only time in the pattern that this happens, as every other repeat should complete when it reaches whatever number is stated for those last sts. So sorry for the confusion!

    Here’s a tip, in case you run into something else confusing: the front panel is primarily the pattern’s chart repeated, with just a vertical column of purls after repeating the chart three times (so on peg 40). There are also two vertical columns, one each on the very outsides of the repeated pattern chart (so pegs 1 and 41) that are made up of garter stitch (knits alternating with purls). This makes a good reference point to check against.

    If you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

  • Dear Bethany.
    Goodmorning and Thank you so much! I understand that completely now. I really love this pattern and was getting frustrated with myself. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. :)

  • Oh, good, Chyre! :) I’m so glad I could help clear things up for you. No need to be frustrated…I’m always happy to help. I am so thrilled you love the design and are whipping one up! There is a project page for this on Ravelry that you can link your own to, so we can all enjoy it along with you. Can’t wait to see it! :D

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Nov 7, 2016

Stitchology 26: Mesh Stitch

This lacy stitch is super simple to create and yet still makes a beautiful statement.  There are only 4 rows to repeat in this one, making it a perfect pattern to create from memory…excellent for the beginning of the busy holiday season November brings.  The pattern in this one reminds me of a pretty woven bread basket my mom used to use at her Thanksgiving table every year. This stitch looks lovely from the back side as well, making it a terrific one for projects that may be seen from both sides, such as scarves, shawls and blankets.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Mesh Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (sample uses Lion Wool in Pumpkin)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 3,+2 added stitches at the end—this is the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat, plus the last stitches of the round will be just the first 2 of the 3 repeat stitches due to the nature of this stitch pattern.  The vertical purl lines will be one stitch closer together at this spot, so it is best placed at the back, or in a fairly inconspicuous spot on your project.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

This stitch pattern can be made into a very uniform and more open lacy design by stretching it taut while pinning during the blocking step.  Make sure it has had a sufficient soaking time to help accommodate this look.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.  The e-wraps are then untwisted when working them during the next row to emphasize the eyelet holes.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.

[k2tog, yo]:  Work over 2 pegs from right to left <: Move the loop from peg 2 (the yo peg) to peg 1 (the k2tog peg). Using the working yarn, knit the bottom 2 loops as one on the k2tog peg, then e-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: Work over 2 pegs from right to left <: Move the loop from peg 1 (the yo peg) to peg 2 (the ssk peg). Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg, then knit the bottom 2 loops as one on the ssk peg.

All the e-wraps are then untwisted when working them during the next row to emphasize the eyelet holes.

Repeating Pattern Rows

The Repeating Pattern Rows for this stitch are fairly tricky to explain, as they are repeating 2 rows of a 2 stitch repeat and 2 rows of a 3 stitch repeat.  They can be represented here in only a repeat of 3 stitches, but they are shown to 9 stitches so that the idea of how they travel down the row can be seen in its entirety.

So, in order to repeat this pattern when working in the round, simply keep repeating these stitches for the number of rows needed, with all rows beginning from the right side.  Please see the Pattern Notes for more instructions on this.

For repeating this stitch pattern when working as a flat panel, end at a number divisible by 3, within the chosen border.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

eyelets-angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 36 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p36.

Row 2: k36.

Row 3: p36.

Row 4: k36.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, *p1, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6:  *k2, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 7:  p2, *p1, yo, ssk, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8:  Repeat Row 6.

Rows 9-58:  Repeat Rows 5-8.

Finishing Rows

Row 59: p36.

Row 60: k36.

Row 61: p36.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

2 Comments

  • Would it be possible for you to make a video of the steps for things like the yarn overs, ssk, etc. techniques for patterns like this. I’m a super audio/visual learner and can’t seem to get those steps right from just written directions.

  • Hi Deb :)

    Well, let’s walk through this to help you out…

    First of all, a yarn over in this case is simply an ewrap. This ewrap will be untwisted when you’re ready to knit it into the next row…you don’t *have* to take the twist out, but it helps open up those eyelets better. ;)

    I generally don’t make videos for techniques that can be found elsewhere, but when it’s a new thing for the Stitchology column, or loom knitting in general, then I like to do a video.

    The following is a technique video I did for all three of the techniques involved in the Mesh Stitch: K2tog, ssk, and an ewrap YO. It is for the stitch Spring Bunnies: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbeANK7hcU8

    This will get you all caught up on the actual techniques, then you just plug those skill into whatever pattern you desire. :D

    If you have any additional questions, please don’t hesitate to drop a comment!
    Bethany~

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Nov 5, 2016

Zippy Faux Möbius Scarf

mobius_scarf

 

The zippy faux möbius scarf is very simple and fast to knit. Worked completely in garter stitch and then a simple twist creates a unique scarf.

What is a möbius strip? It is a one-sided surface that is constructed from a rectangle by holding one end fixed, rotating the opposite end through 180 degrees, and joining it to the first end.

Mobius_band

Materials

Knitting loom:  (3) Zippy Looms.

Yarn: Approx: 60 yards of super bulky yarn. Loops & Threads Artisan was used in sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

K=e-wrap knit stitch

P=purl stitch

CO=cast on

BBO=basic bind off

St(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 12 sts (left to right)

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Repeat Row 1 and Row 2: 25 more times.

Twist the panel, place the cast on row back on the knitting loom. Each peg has two loops on it.Perform a basic bind off (treat the two loops on each peg as one loop).

Weave ends in.

 

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Nov 1, 2016

Slipped Purl Cowl

sliped-purl-cowl

Keep away the chill with this sumptuous cowl as you walk around this fall season enjoying the crisp fall air. 

Materials

Knitting Loom: (6) Zippy Looms, (4) Zippy Corners.

Yarn: 80 yards of Super Bulky wool. Malabrigo Rasta, shown in Abril was used in sample (less than 1 skein).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: 5 sts x 7 rows= 4 inches

Abbreviations

P=purl stitch

K=knit stitch

Slwyb=Slip with yarn back. Skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg.

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up knitting loom as shown on this picture: Use 1 connector to connect 2 zippy looms together, repeat with the other 2 Zippy looms. Place corners at each end of the two rails. Slide the remaining two Zippys at each end, connecting them to the rails with the corners.

zippy-with-6-zippy

Cast on 28 sts using the ewrap cast on.

Rnd 1: *p6, k1; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *p6, sl1wyb; rep from * to end of rnd.

Repeat Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: until about 30 inches of yarn remain.

Bind off loosely with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in.

 

 

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Oct 29, 2016

Crossed Paths Cap

A hat to keep you cozy warm while on the trails or out and about town in the cool weather seasons. This unisex design is high on style and low on difficulty level, with its one and only row of cable design to really make this hat pop!

Knitting Loom: Adjustable Hat Loom set to the large size, 84 pegs, with pegs in each hole.

Yarn: Approximately 140 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample used handspun yarn 50% merino wool 50% alpaca.

Notions: knitting tool, cable needle, one removable stitch marker, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter.

Gauge: 4 sts x 7.5 rows= 1 inch (in pattern, using U-Stitch).

Finished Measurements: Circumference: 21″,  Height: 10″.

Skills Needed: Knit/U-stitch, Purl, 6st-rc/kpk Cable (described in Pattern Notes), Chain Cast On (or CO of your choice).

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
Rnd(s): round(s)
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
6st-rc/kpk: 6 stitch right cross cable, k2, p2, k2
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

For the sample, all knit stitches were made using the U-stitch. Work whichever type of knit stitch helps you achieve the proper gauge.

Flat Drawstring Bind Off tutorial (instructions for this specific hat are included in the Finishing section below…video is listed for a helpful visual).

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 6 pegs in the correct order.They are all worked the same—as right cross cables (a twist with the sts running to the right) with both knit and purl stitches combined.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. It may help to ewrap the first 2 and the last 2 stitches that will be worked into the cable in the following row, just make sure to untwist the ewraps before knitting them into the cables.

[6st-rc/kpk]:  Worked over 6 pegs, from right to left (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1):

  • -Lift the loops from the first 4 pegs of the cable (1-4) and place them on the cable needle.
  • -Bring your working yarn behind pegs 1-4 and knit the stitch on peg 5.
  • -Move this stitch (peg 5) over to peg 1 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn that is allowable at this point.
  • -Bring your working yarn behind pegs 2-5 and knit the stitch on peg 6.
  • -Move this stitch (peg 6) over to peg 2 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn that is allowable at this point.
  • -Lift the first stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 4 and move it back to peg 4.
  • -Lift the second stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 3 and move it back to peg 3.  Purl these 2 stitches (pegs 3 & 4).
  • -Lift the stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 1 and move it to peg 5.  Knit this stitch.
  • -Lift the last stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 2 and move it to peg 6.  Knit this stitch.
  • -Work out any slack that may be left throughout the 6 cable stitches.

chart-key-crossed-paths-cap

Repeating Pattern Rows

(This chart details the 14 repeating pattern stitches in the round.  The rows in the chart detail how they are worked to Row 32.  Row 32 is then repeated to Row 62, then the crown shaping begins, as is shown in the pattern instructions below.)

crossed-paths-cap-chart

Instructions

Crossed Paths Cap with tree

Set loom to use 84 pegs, with pegs set in every hole.  CO onto all pegs in the round.

Rnds 1-10: *k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 11-16: Repeat the following 2 row pattern: 

Row A: k84

Row B: p84

Rnds 17-20: Rep Rnd 1. (As stated in Pattern Notes, knit Rnd 20 loosely.)

Rnd 21: *k2, p3, 6st-rc/kpk, p3, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 22-25: Rep Rnd 1.

Rnds 26-31: rep Rnds 11-16.

Rnds 32-62: Rep Rdn 1.

Crown Decreasing:

Rnd 63:  Decrease at every section of 3 purls together for a total of 12 decreases in the following way:

Move the center purl loops over one peg and purl 2 loops together as 1 while working the row below. The spaces can be just left alone and the yarn carried behind the empty pegs, or each 3 peg connector can be removed from the loom and the sts moved to fill in all the empty pegs.  If the loom sections are removed, the loom will now be unconnected on the sides, but it is still held together by the knitting, so can continue to be worked.

Work the rnd as follows:  *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd. (Purl the pegs with 2 loops as if they are 1.)

Rnds 64-68:  *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 69:  Decrease at every section of 2 knit pairs for a total of 18 decreases in the following way:

At every pair of knit stitches, move one knit loop over to the other knit peg and knit 2 loops together as 1 while working the row below. Each 11 peg connector can be removed from the loom and replaced with a 3 peg connector on each side. Shift the sts to fill in all the empty pegs, but there will still be 2 pegs left empty.  Situate these 2 empty pegs so that one is placed in between 2 different sets of purl pegs.

Work the rnd as follows:  *k1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd. (Knit the pegs with 2 loops, 2 over 1.)

Rnds 70-74:  *k1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Finishing

Crossed Paths Tree back

  • -Wrap WY around the loom twice and cut at this point.
  • -Add a yarn needle and thread through every purl st in order, trailing the WY behind the knit pegs. Release all purl sts from their pegs.  Give the WY a gentle pull to add tension on all the purl sts.
  • -Add a removable stitch marker onto your WY at this point.
  • -Thread through every knit st in order, releasing them from their pegs.
  • -Firmly pull the yarn tail section that is before the stitch marker, so that all the purl sts are now completely gathered closed.
  • -While keeping this section tight, firmly gather the remaining knit sts closed and knot in place. (Remove the stitch marker just before completely closing the knit sts section.) Sew closed any opening still remaining.
  • -Pull tail to the inside of the hat and knot the purl gathers securely in place.

Weave in all ends and block to size preferred.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

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Oct 24, 2016

Loom Weaving: Rya Knots

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Rya knots go with weaving like ice cream and apple pie. You can use rya knots in your weavings to make pops of texture, to make a shag weave, or to add a gorgeous fringe. I’ve paired a fluffy hand-spun yarn with a golden warp thread to make a dreamy weave.

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in metallic gold is used for the warp. Along with a hand-spun Merino wool thick n’ thin in color Antler from AmandaJFrench on Etsy is used for the weave.

Notions: tapestry needle, wooden dowel rod

Rya Knot Steps:

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 1: Cut a length of thread that is twice as long as you want your rya knot to hang.

Step 2: Bring the middle of the thread over two warp threads.

Step 3: Take left side of the thread and pass it around the warp thread on the left and pull it up so that it is between the left warp thread and the right warp thread.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 4: Now take the right side of the thread, pass it around the warp thread on the right and pull it up so that it also is between the left warp thread and the right warp thread.

Step 5: Pull both the thread ends evenly so that they pull tight against the warp threads creating a rya knot.

Tip: once you have made all your rya knots, weave at least 2 rows of plain weave to secure the knots and tighten them as necessary.

White & Gold Wall Hanging Pattern:

Set up your weave as described here. Double knot your warp thread on pin #2 from the bottom left. Warp your loom so that 18 pins are warp across the top and 19 pins are warped on the bottom, which includes your beginning double knot and your ending double knot of the warp thread. Tie your anchor thread across the top of the warp loops.

Weave 22 rows of the plain weave using your white yarn. This makes the body of the weave.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Next to create the diagonal rya knots, follow this:

  • Cut 3 pieces of the white thread 18 inches long. Using 2 warp threads each, tie three rya knots starting on the right side.
  • Cut 3 pieces of white thread 14 inches long. Tie 3 more rya knots.
  • Cut 2 pieces 12 inches long, tie 2 more rya knots
  • Cut 3 pieces 8 inches long, tie 3 more rya knots
  • Cut 3 pieces 6 inches long, tie the 3 in rya knots
  • Cut 2 pieces 4 inches long, tie the 2 in rya knots

Now that all the warp threads have rya knots tied on them, weave two rows of plain weave below the rya knots.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Following the similar finishing instructions here, cut your bottom warp threads about an inch from the bottom of the longest rya knot thread.  The golden warp thread will be all one length across and will peek out as the white thread is at a diagonal.  Tie 2 warp threads into a single knot, making sure they are tight against the bottom plain weave row to finish. Carefully remove the top warp loops from the loom pegs, then twist each one and put the dowel rod through the loops.

Enjoy your white and gold weave!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom (a blog dedicated to helping others learn to weave)

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