May 2, 2016

Bunnies on Parade-Stitchology 21

Spring has sprung and apparently I can’t think about anything other than sweet little bunny rabbits while knitting!  I simply meant to do an interesting new technique for May’s Stitchology, and guess what?  It came out with bunnies prancing across the square in neat and orderly rows. I’m definitely not one to deny my love for those furry creatures, so bunny rabbits it is! :)  The neat thing about this stitch is that the backside is really pretty too, and looks like an entirely different stitch altogether.  Because of this, Bunnies on Parade would be a terrific stitch for making items that can be reversible such as blankets, hats, scarves…you name it!

It’s Reversible!

Back Side of Stitch

Back Side of Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

 

Bunnies on Parade Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in banane)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter & blocking pins/pad)

 

Pattern Notes:

This versatile stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to pretty much any type of project.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 2—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows (increasing as necessary), then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required. Complete by adding the same number of extra Finishing Rows at the end that were added at the beginning.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The abbreviation “rep” stands for “repeat”.

The abbreviation “wy” stands for “working yarn”.

 

*There are two types of Slip Stitches in this stitch pattern.  They are worked in the following ways:

s1: Slip one stitch with working yarn in back (worked over one peg) 

How to do it: *Simply carry the working yarn behind the peg, without working the loop on the peg.

s2wyif/p2:  Slip two stitches with working yarn in front, then purl the same two stitches (worked over 2 pegs, from right to left)

How to do it

*Lift the loop from peg #1 and carry the working yarn in the space in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace held loop. Repeat for peg #2.

*Bring the working yarn around to the back of peg #2, and carry behind both pegs #2 and #1, finally bringing around to the front of peg #1 again.

*Purl pegs #1 and #2.

**Note: See the tutorial video at the bottom of this post for a more visual instruction tool. 

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Stitchology 21- Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Bunnies on Parade-close back

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 40 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  P40

Row 2:  K40

Row 3:  P40

Row 4:  K40

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: P3, *s2wyif/p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6: K3, *p1, s1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: P3, *s1, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8: K40

Rows 9-68:  Rep Rows 5-8.

Finishing Rows

Row 69: P40

Row 70:  K40

Row 71:  P40

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

 

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

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Apr 29, 2016

Felted Casserole Cozy

With the warmer weather comes those special events we all love: pot lucks, barbecues, family reunions, and sports outings.  This project is exactly the thing needed to keep those tasty dishes insulated while transporting them to their destination.  The thick felted wool creates the perfect barrier to help hot dishes remain hot and cold ones stay chilled in the sun’s warming rays.

Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom set to large gauge (pegs in every other hole), 28 pegs used.

Yarn: Approximately 950 yards of worsted weight 100% wool yarn, two strands held as one. Sample used Patons Classic Wool Worsted (2 skeins in each of the colors Jade Heather and Rich Red, 1/2 skein in the color Leaf Green, 1/4 skein in the color Winter White) 210 yds/192 m.

Notions: knitting tool, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), stitch markers, scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter, one large and a few small decorative buttons, as desired.  Also needed for felting process: hot water, either in washing machine or in large tub, 1 tablespoon laundry soap or baking soda, thick towels, old jeans or dryer balls to aid in the felting process if using a washing machine.

Gauge: Approx 9.33 sts x 17.75 rows= 4 inches (before felting)

Finished Measurements: Before felting: 17″ x 12″ x 5″ After felting: approximately 15″ x 9″ x 3″  (The size of this cover can be adjusted by changing the number of pegs used and rows knitted, as well as custom fitted by felting the item to fit the specific pan desired for use.)

Skills Needed: E-wrap, Chain CO (or CO of your choice), Basic BO, seaming method of choice (sample used single crochet), felting techniques.

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
EW: E-wrap stitch
KO: knit off
WY: working yarn
BBO: basic bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held throughout.

The instructions below are for the exact color combination used for the sample.  If another look is desired, simply work in the color pattern of choice, keeping the total row count the same as the original.

Felted Casserole Cozy-side

Instructions

Set loom to work in a flat panel using 28 pegs in every other hole.

Top Panel

CO onto all 28 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-11:  Work EW on all 28 pegs using 2 strands of Rich Red.

Rows 12-16: Cut 1 strand of Rich Red to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Jade Heather with uncut strand of Rich Red and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 17-27:  Cut strand of Rich Red to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Jade Heather and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 28-32: Cut 1 strand of Jade Heather to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Winter White with uncut strand of Jade Heather and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 33-43:  Cut strand of Jade Heather to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Winter White and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 44-48: Cut 1 strand of Winter White to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Leaf Green with uncut strand of Winter White and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 49-59:  Cut strand of Winter White to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Leaf Green and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 60-64: Cut 1 strand of Leaf Green to 4″ and hold 1 strand of Rich Red with uncut strand of Leaf Green and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Rows 65-75:  Cut strand of Leaf Green to 4″ and hold 2 strands of Rich Red and work EW on all 28 pegs.

Loosely BBO all 28 pegs.

Bottom Panel

CO onto all 28 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-88:  Work EW on all 28 pegs using 2 strands of Jade Heather.

Rows 89-100: Continue to work in EW, but decrease 2 stitches at each row using the following method:

*Move the loops from the 2nd pegs from both edges to the outside pegs.

*KO the bottom loop over the top loop at the outside pegs.

*Move the loop from the outside pegs inward one peg to fill in the gaps.

*Work row.

BBO remaining 4 pegs.

Sides Panel

CO onto 12 pegs. (Sample used Chain CO)

Rows 1-200:  Work EW on all 12 pegs using 2 strands of Rich Red.

Loosely BBO all 12 pegs.

 FRONT before felting

FRONT before felting

 BACK before felting

BACK before felting

Finishing

Pin the long side panel evenly onto both the top and bottom panels, keeping the extra length of the bottom panel free by centering the side panel at the flat edge opposite the tapered edge. There should be approximately 4″ left free before it starts to taper to a point.  Being careful not to pull too tightly which will cause puckering, neatly stitch the edges of the panels together (sample used a single crochet stitch  in Leaf Green, but a blanket stitch or mattress stitch could also be used. To keep continuity of the contrasting seam, a single crocheted edge was also applied across the bottom panel’s tapered end as well as ends of

side panel.)

Weave in all ends that will be visible at the opening, and simply make a square knot and trim all other ends.

Felting

**Please Note!** During felting, the wool will shrink significantly. Careful watch over the felting process is required to ensure that the piece doesn’t shrink too much.
If using a washing machine, place the piece inside a laundry bag or tightly tied pillow case before felting.  This will help keep the extra fuzz produced in the felting process from clogging the machine. Set the machine to the hot/normal cycle and add a pair of old jeans or two (ones that will not bleed color) or dryer balls for plenty of agitation.  Add a tablespoon of laundry soap or baking powder to help soften the wool fibers. Let the cycle run for approx 15-20 minutes, checking regularly to make sure of the size of the finished piece.  **Donleave them unchecked too long, as it can quickly shrink beyond what is expected!  If the machine is felting the piece unevenly, simply add friction by hand to those places that still require extra felting.  This allows better control over the felting process so that certain areas don’t felt too much.
Alternately, felting can be accomplished using a large tub filled with hot water and plenty of applied hand agitation with good success.  An ice cube tray, or a new plunger can also be used for added friction. 
Once the desired size has been achieved, rinse piece with cold water. Carefully squeeze out excess water without ringing. Roll cozy in a thick, absorbent towel.
Working while the piece is still damp, carefully stretch the sides of the panels so that they are straight and even and are at the correct measurement. Insert desired baking dish and fit the cozy to its shape (sample’s dish had handles to mold the felting around, but this was done quite easily, because the wool was still damp and pliable).  Stretch and push the piece as needed, pinning the flap in place.  Leave to dry completely.  **Note: Because felting will continue to shrink a bit as the moisture in the wool evaporates, continue shaping during the drying process, so that the project will remain in the desired shape.
 Felted Casserole Cozy-button flap

Using sharp scissors, cut a small slit in the center of the tapered point of the button flap, along the same direction as the knitting. The felting process will have firmly knotted all the fibers together, so the knitting can be cut into without worry.  If desired, the slit can be reinforced with some stitches of yarn. Stitch the button(s) onto the corresponding place on the top panel where the button flap will close, as well as anywhere else desired for decoration.

Felted Casserole Cozy-buttons,sm

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

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Apr 25, 2016

Double Knit 101-Part III

Double Knit 101—Part II        Double Knit 101-Part I

Elizabeth with hat:scarfShaping the Knit

Yay, you completed your double knit scarf last month! That’s really so cool, because you did the basic cast on with anchor yarn, changed stitch patterns with the Stockinette stitch and the Rib stitch. Hopefully, you finished off both ends and have it ready to wear, when needed. Well, some folks still need their warm wearables handy with the snow still flying in parts of the country.

Your current abbreviations learned are:

Stockinette stitch=St stitch, or K stitch= knit stitch. (same stitch),

Back/to/back stitch=b/b

Rib stitch=Rib stitch

Increase=inc

Decrease=dec, or DD=double dec

Cast On=CO

Bind Off=BO

Approximately=aprox

Regular row=a row with no increase or decrease

So today, I want to share with you the basics of increasing and decreasing, so you can make lots more fun items in double knit. What can we make, and when will you use the inc and dec? Let’s look at some different situations, and what will the pattern say? The best way to explain the shaping is to just make something with these techniques, for example, a hat to match your scarf.  With a double knit hat, we usually make it on a long loom so that we can get the entire length going around the head, all in one piece.  This way the cast on, with the  anchor yarn edge, will be at the top of hat, and then,  just gather the top with the anchor yarn.  But sometimes that method creates a hat that is very bunched up at the top, or sits on your head like a paper sack pulled down.

I am using the 18-All-n-One-Loom as the 10″ Knitting Board would be limited, for this example.  The All-n-One Loom has 48 pegs, and my hat will need 56 stitches.  So, we can just make this in 2 pieces, each will have 28 sts.  OH no, you say, sewing? Maybe I did it on purpose, because I wanted to show you how the invisible stitch can be just that…invisible.  So with our hat, we are going to make it in 2 shaped pieces and sew them together with invisible stitch.  Each piece will look something like this.

hat front 2

Here is the hat front or back, they will be the same.  We will start the piece at brim and work with rib stitch and stockinette.  We will do dec across the center and, on up to hat top. We will use the dec at beginning and end of each row as well as randomly across the entire row.

#5 yarn and the All-n-One Loom, set at smallest spacing is used in sample.  This will produce a size small hat to fit head circumference of approximately 21-22″.  You can make a larger hat by using the mid spacing of the All-n-One Loom.  If you are using the 28″Loom, maintain the smaller setting.  For a deeper hat, work 12 rows of rib st and 12 rows of stockinette st.  Our sample measures aprox 9″ deep.

Cast On 28 stitches in stockinette stitch.  Work in Rib stitch for 10 rows.

Change to Stockinette stitch and work for 10 rows.  For a deeper hat, change to 12 rows of each stitch.  This will add 1″ in depth.  We will go thru the series of a dec row before completing our hat panel.

pick up 3rd stitch

Decrease at ends of loom and across the loom: A basic dec is same as term (k2tog)  or knit 2 sts together as one.  This is what we are doing.  When you combine 2 sts, you are creating an empty peg and the peg next to it has 2 loops.  If you leave the pegs empty and continue weaving over them, you will create an open hole as with an eyelet design.  On the other hand, if you move the sts together and eliminate the empty peg, you are reducing the amount of stitches, and making the knit width narrower.  This is what we want to do to shape the hat around the head.

 

place on peg 4

 

 

Sometimes, you want to just bring in the ends with a dec at each end, or some shapes, like a neckline will ask you to dec at just the front end, or back end of loom.  When you want a more sharp curve like our hat, we will use some dec rows that will have multiple decreases all across the knitting.  It all does the same thing-make the knit smaller in width.Remember, the dec stitches must be done to both boards for a basic process.

We have created empty pegs on both boards by moving loop on peg 2 to peg 3.  It is always best to do a dec or inc from inside the knit rather than at the first stitch.  There will be times when you will work from peg one, but that is usually for ruffles and intricate little items.

ready to close in open pegs

 

 

 

 

create open pegs for dec

Once you have all the open pegs you need to reduce the size of the knit, start at center of loom and move the pegs over towards center.  If you are working with an empty peg that has the 2 loops, be sure to move both of them to next peg.  Sometime there will be more than one peg to jump over, and it will be a tight stretch.  Just go slow and careful, so that the loops are on the intended pegs.

In the photo above, you can see 6 empty pegs on each board.  They are ready to be moved over.  They all need to be adjacent to each other in order to weave the next (shorter) row.  After this row is complete, you will have just 22 sts instead of the 28 sts that you cast on.  Be sure to weave over all pegs to complete the row.

pick up both loops and move over

It can be a bit of a stretch as you move the loops over to close in the empty pegs.  Once they are all moved, weave over the pegs and hook over, being careful to lift both loops when working  the double loops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

eyelets

 

Remember, if you leave the loops spaced out, and weave over them, without moving them together, you will create eyelets.

 

 

 

 

Continue the shaping of the hat: We are working from L side of loom.

Decrease row #1-Lift loop #3 and place it on peg #4, both boards.  Place loop #8 onto peg #9, both boards.  Place loop #13 onto peg #14, both boards.  Notice they are all laying towards center.  Now, place loop #16 onto peg #15, both boards, and loop #21 onto peg #20, and then loop #26 onto peg #25, both boards.  Your dec is done.  Now, carefully move the loops over until they are all adjacent to each other and you now have 22 sts.  Check carefully to be sure you do not have empty pegs.  Sometimes, when moving the double loops on one peg, it helps to move one at a time, so you don’t accidentally lose one of them.  Weave over the 22 sts and hook over.

22 sts after dec.2

Work 2 regular rows in stockinette.

Dec #2-Lift loop #3 onto peg #4 on both boards.  Do this to both ends of loom.  You are dec by 2 sts.

Work 4 regular rows in stockinette.

Dec #3- Lift loop #4 onto peg #5 and loop # 9 onto peg #10.  Do this to both boards.  Lift loop #17 onto peg #16, and loop #12 onto #11.  Do this to both boards.  We are decreasing by 4 stitches.  Now there are 16 sts on loom.

Work 2 regular rows in stockinette.

Repeat dec row #2.  Work 1 regular row.

Repeat dec row #2 again.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec #4-decrease by 3 sts.  Lift loop #3 onto peg #4, both boards, both ends, and one dec in center of knitting.  There are 9 sts remaining.   Work 1 reg row.

Repeat dec row #4-so that you now have 6 sts remaining.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec 1 st at each end of loom on both boards.  Work 1 reg row.

Dec 1 st at each end of loom on both boards, and bind off the last sts.  THIS PIECE IS DONE.

Now, make a 2nd piece exactly the same-it will go so much faster than the first.

 

ready to put togetherYou now need to sew them together using the invisible stitch.  If you look at the outer edges of the hat pieces, you will see where you want to do the sewing-right on the outer edge, so that you can just pull the pieces together.  I like to pin the pieces in place before beginning.  You can do this with some nice smooth double pointed knitting needles, or, find some very smooth toothpicks.

 

 

pinned together for sewing

 

Do the sewing with matching yarn, aprox 3′ long.  Use a darning needle to make the stitches.  The yarn used in the sample is a contrast color yarn.  This was done on purpose, so you can see the stitches, and then see how it disappears once pulled snug into the knitting.

The bind off of each piece can be done before the sewing, and remove the anchor yarn, or you can leave them in until after the sewing.  I will use this method, so we can have one continuous bind off all around the hat.

Start sewing at one corner of hat at anchor yarn by simply tying the yarn about 1″ from bottom edge.  Bring yarn up thru the knit to the starting point for sewing.

 

edges to be sewn

This is ready to sew together.  With darning needle, start on one edge and grab the cross stitch inside the edge.  Without pulling it tight, grab the cross stitch inside other edge.  Keep following the seam by alternating from one edge to the other.  After working for about 2″, you can gently pull the working yarn to bring the 2 edges together.  See the pale yellow yarn sewn loosely, and then see how it totally disappears in the next photo.You can gently shape the top of the hat to be rounded or flat across the top, just with the sewing.

 

stitching

invisible sewing.2

 

Once you have sewn the hats pieces together, you are ready to do a nice finish on the hat brim. This will be a simple crochet bind off as shown in Part I of Double Knit 101. The bind off will connect the 2 pieces with a seamless finished edge.  Remove the 2 anchor yarns.  Weave in any yarn tails, trim excess and your hat is ready to wear.  Add adornments if desired, like a little round flower.

Basic Increase preview-Making a circle.

circle

Cast On 3 sts stockinette. Place anchor yarn.

Work 1 reg row.

Inc from st #1 to peg #2, both ends and both boards. Work row.

Work 1 reg row.

Continue with inc row, now moving stitch #2 to peg #3, and 1 regular row until you have 13 stitches.

Work 2 reg rows.

Inc row, continue till you have 15 sts.

Work 3 regular rows.

Complete in reverse using the dec instead of inc.

Keep working until you are back to 3 sts.

Bind off at both anchor, and loom.

So how is the basic Inc done in double knit?  Pretty much like the Dec except move the 1st stitch out to new empty peg.  You have an empty peg between st 1 and st 2.  Instead, pick up the loop behind the adjacent peg (this is the last row dropped off) of peg #3.  Place that loop onto the empty peg.  You now have a new stitch on that empty peg.  If you do this to both sides and both ends, your next row will have 2 more stitches. With 5 stitches, now do the inc rows from stitch #2 to peg #3.

Cast on 3 sts.     Move stitch #1 to new peg creating empty peg.  Same on both boards and at both ends.

caston 3 sts

move 2 peg out2

 

 

 

Now you see row with 7 stitches.  We are lifting the loop from the previous row to place on the empty peg for the new stitch.  Next photo shows the new stitches.  Weave this row and hook over.

We can go into more detail for the inc process next month, when we will be talking about some color additions, and intarsia designs.  We will want to cover buttonholes, for sure.  After that some new exciting stitches.  Join us here!inc to empty peg

stitch to pick up

4 Comments

  • Pat,
    Another great article. Really like the explanation of he invisible stitch. That is the only stitch I use when sewing together items. Am looking forward to next article when you talk about Intarsia design, a favorite topic and one people like to learn. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with everyone.

  • Thank you, Sue. I agree with the sewing stitch-it seems to work in so many situations. Pat

  • I love these tutorials. That circle would be great to make the bottom of a knitted bag.

  • Hi Claudia, that’s a great idea. How about the bottom of a basket or cup holder, even a knitting board bag. Thanks, Pat

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Apr 23, 2016

Oven Mitt & Hot pad Set

Oven Mitt Set Small 2

Add a special touch to your kitchen with a set of customized oven mitt set. Makes and excellent hostess gift too! Worked in garter stitch and felted to provide the user with a thick fabric that will keep the heat away from the fingers. 

LOOM:  Hat Loom, at large gauge (40 pegs and 20 pegs)

YARN:  Approx 300 yds of bulky weight of wool mohair blend.  Shown in Cranberry Swirl (250 yds) and Lime Sorbet (50 yds)

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

GAUGE: Approx 3.5 sts x 4 rows = 2 inches (gauge not imperative).

SIZE:
Hot pad: Before felting 10×10 inches. After felting 8.5 x 8.5 inches.
Oven Mitt: Before felting 14×8 inches. After felting 12 x 7 inches.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

ewrap k=ewrap knit

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)
MC=Main color (cranberry swirl)

CC=Contrasting color (lime sorbet)

PATTERN NOTE: Both items are worked completely with the ewrap knit stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Hot PadHot Pad

Set knitting loom XS setting-with pegs every other hole, 28 pegs.

Using MC, CO 28 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: e-wrap k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep Row 1 and Row 2: until item measures approximately 9.5 inches from cast on edge.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Accent I-cordHot Pad with Icord

Using CC, CO 3 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work a 3-stitch i-cord that is approx. 45 inches long.

Assembly: using the mattress stitch, seam the icord to the edge of the hot pad. Create a small loop with the remaining icord (to use for hanging)

Oven Mitt

Set knitting loom Medium setting-with pegs every other hole, 40 pegs. 

Using MC, CO 40 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: ewrap k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: p to the end of rnd. 

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 15 more times (total of 30 rnds). (16 garter stitch ridges).Oven Mitt parts

BO 8sts, ewrap k to the end of row (32 sts). (Working in rows for the next 5 rows)

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end (32 sts).

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end (32 sts).

Next row: p back (p32).

Next row: Ewrap k to the end, CO 8 sts at end of row. (Begin working the rnd again).

Next rnd: p to end of rnd.

*Next rnd: ewrap k to end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to end of rnd. *Oven Mitt assembled

Rep from * to *: 14 more times. (total of 28 rnds). (16 garter stitch ridges from thumb opening).

Bind off with gather removal method.

Thumb 

Set knitting loom XS setting-with pegs every other hole, 28 pegs.

Using MC, CO 28 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: k to end of rnd.

Rnd 2: p to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: 11 more times. (total of 22 rnds). (12 garter stitch ridges.

Bind off with gather removal method. 

Assembly of Oven Mitt: Using the mattress stitch and MC, seam the thumb to the thumb opening in the thumb.

Accent I-cord 

Using CC, CO 3 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Work a 3-stitch i-cord that is approx. 25  inches long.

Assembly: using the mattress stitch, seam the icord to the cast on edge of the oven mitt. Create a small loop with the remaining icord (to use for hanging)

FELTING INSTRUCTIONS side view

The magic in this knitting happens when you wash the untreated wool with hot water and the item shrinks, making the stitches smaller, and the fabric thicker.

You will need the following:

1 pillow case with a zipper

Safety Pin

2-3 jeans (to use in agitation)

Eucalan Woolwash or Baby Shampoo

Towels (to squeeze out excess water).

Top Loader Washer

INSTRUCTIONS

Place all items to be felted inside the zippered pillow case. Secure the zipper with the safety pin (to ensure the pillow case doesn’t open).

Set washer to Small load, and Hot temperature.

Place 1 tsp of Eucalan Woolwash or 1 tsp of Baby Shampoo.

Place the jeans inside the washer.

Place the pillow case inside the washer.

Start the washer. Check the washer again BEFORE it goes into the spin cycle. If the item is not the desired size, re-start the washer from the beginning (simply turn the knob back to the beginning of the wash). Place the pillow case back in the washer and let it go through another cycle, stopping the washer BEFORE it was through the spin cycle. Check again. If not desired size, repeat. *The above samples took 3 cycles.

Once the items are the desired size, remove the items from the pillow case. Take them to the sink. If you used Eucalan Woolwash, rinsing is not required. If you used Baby Shampoo, rinse in cold water. Do not wring the excess water. Place a towel on a flat surface, then place the felted item on top of the towel. Pat dry as much as you can.

Set the items to air dry, away from the sun. The sun may discolor the yarn.

 

 

 

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Apr 16, 2016

Nautical Dishcloth Set

nautical set 3

This month we will bring you small accents to decorate your kitchen, anywhere from dishclothes, hanging towels, to placemats and perhaps even a kitchen rug. The Nautical Dishcloth set is the perfect way to add some color and to test out some new stitches. Remember, it is a dishcloth so perfection is not required, the dishes won’t mind if a stitch is amiss. Grab a loom and sit down outside to enjoy the spring air and knit away.

Knitting Loom: 32 peg Basics Loom

Yarn: Approx 150 grams of cotton worsted weight yarn. Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Nautical was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: Not imperative for project.

Sizes: Squares: 8×8”  | Dotted: 7.5×7.5”  | Scrubbie: 6.5×6.5”

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch (or may substitute with U-stitch).

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rep=Repeat

Sl 1 wyif=with yarn in front of the stitch (remove stitch from the peg, pass working yarn behind the peg, place stitch back on the peg, then work the next peg as instructed in pattern.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Squares DishclothSquares

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k to end of row.

Row 7: p3, k13, p16.

Rep Row 6 and Row 7: 10 more times (total of 20 rows).

Next row (left to right): k to end of row.

Next row: p16, k13, p3

Rep last two rows: 10 more times (total of 20 rows).

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last 2 rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

Dotted DishclothDotted

Cast on 32 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k3, *k2, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 7: p3, k to last 3 sts,  p3.

Rep Rows 6 and 7: 18 more times (36 total rows).

Next row: k to the end row.

Next row: p to the end of row.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

Scrubbie DishclothScrubbie

Row 1 (from right to left): p to end of row.

Row 2: k to end of row.

Row 3: p to end of row.

Row 4: k to end of row.

Row 5: p to end of row.

Row 6: k to end of row.

Row 7: p3, *k1, sl 1 wyif, rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Rep Rows 6 and 7: 18 more times (36 total rows).

Next row: k to end of row.

Next row: p to end of row.

Rep last two rows: 2 more times.

Remove with Basic bind off method.

 

 

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