Dec 5, 2016

Stitchology 27: Little Pines

little-pines

Last December we learned a stitch using cables that formed a forest of Evergreens.  It seemed fitting to celebrate the entrance the holidays with another iconic wintry designthis time using eyelets to form majestic pine boughs. Even though this stitch is a 16 row repeat, once you get the hang of how the rows flow, they can be worked entirely from memory.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Little Pines Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Clary)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes

It really helps to use a yarn with a high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help open up those eyelets and make the bottom edge straight.

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 18—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your eyelets will not be visible, unless you untwist the e-wrap before working into the next row. ;)

To work a S2KP (or: s2tog, k1, p2sso), please see the following instructions:

* Keep in mind that these steps are all accomplished on the same three pegs, worked from right to left: 3, 2, 1.

*  The instructions in brackets [ ] are simply to break the meaning of the abbreviations down to the simplest knitting terms, with the instructions on how to work them on the loom listed directly after. 

    • 1. [Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit 2 stitches together]: for this step, move the stitch on peg 1 to peg 2 and carry the yarn behind pegs 1 & 2 to peg 3.
    • 2. [Knit 1]: knit the stitch on peg 3.  *See Note Below.
    • 3. [Pass the 2 slipped stitches one at a time over the stitch just knitted and drop them]: for the this step, move the stitch on peg 3 to peg 2. Lift the 2 loops one at a time over the top loop.  **See Note Below.

*Note: Work Step 1 once the yo peg has been reached while working row.  After Step 1 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed before the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

**Note: After Step 3 is worked, move the same number of sts over to fill in the empty peg that equal the number of purls listed after the yo peg in the pattern/chart.   This puts the empty peg for the yo in the correct place for pattern.

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

Row 1: *yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, rep from *.

Row 2 and all even Rows: knit all sts.

Row 3: *k1, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k10, rep from *.

Row 5: *k2, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k11, rep from *.

Row 7: *k3, yo, S2KP, yo, k12, rep from *.

Row 9: *k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, rep from *.

Row 11: *k10, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k1, rep from *.

Row 13: *k11 yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k2, rep from *.

Row 15: *k12, yo, S2KP, yo, k3, rep from *.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)  For ease of working the pattern, place a marker on pegs 10, 19, and 28.  These will be your S2KP pegs.

little-pines-frontSet Up Rows

Rows 1-6: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: p37

Row b:  k37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 7:  p4, k1, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k9, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k1, p4.

Row 8 & all even numbered Rows: k37

Row 9:  p4, k2, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k2, p4.

Row 11:  p4, k3, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k13, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k3, p4.

Row 13:  p4, k4, yo, S2KP, yo, k15 sts, yo, S2KP, yo, k4, p4.

Row 15:  p4, k10, yo, p3, S2KP, p3, yo, k10, p4.

Row 17:  p4, k11, yo, p2, S2KP, p2, yo, k11, p4.

Row 19:  p4, k12, yo, p1, S2KP, p1, yo, k12, p4.

Row 21:  p4, k13, yo, S2KP, yo, k13, p4.

Rows 23-61: repeat Rows 7-22.

Finishing Rows

Rows 62-67: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k37

Row b:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  This square was blocked quite thoroughly to really help the eyelets open and the stitches pop.  It was gently washed by hand, left to soak for a while, then the excess water was squeezed out by rolling and pressing the square inside a towel.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

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2 Comments

  • I just wanted to say thank you for all the work you do with your stitchology monthly column. I haven’t had the time to make them all yet but I appreciate the work you put into them! This one is perfect for the holidays!

  • Oh, thank you so much, Christine! That means a lot! I’m so glad you have been enjoying them. :)

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Dec 4, 2016

Snow Kisses Shawl

shawl-2

Envelope yourself in a whisper soft shawl this holiday season.

LOOM:  All-n-One Knitting Loom

YARN:  Approx 750 yds of merino wool worsted weight yarn.  Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal in Blue Skyes (3 skeins)  was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool.

GAUGE: 8 sts and 14 rows  = 2 inches in stockinette.

SIZE:  Approx 24” x 52″ (suggest to steam block).

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

p2tog=purl two stitches together

yo=yarn over

rep=repeat

shawl-5

INSTRUCTIONSchart

CO 106 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 (from right to left): k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: p to end of row.

Row 11: k3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 12: p3, *k1, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Rep Row 11 and Row 12: until item measures approx 50”

Next row: p to end of row.

Next row: k to end of row.

Rep last two rows, 4 more times (total of 8 rows).

BBO.

Steam block or wet block.

shawl-3

Continue reading »

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Nov 28, 2016

Loom Weaving: A Little Handmade Holiday

WovenGiftTagWith the holidays approaching, it’s fun to add a little handmade surprise to your gifts. Today I’ll show you how to make a little weave with a simple snowflake embroidery that can be used as a tag on a gift and later used as a little decoration. The best part of this small project is you can use any extra yarn that you might have left over!

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in white is used for the warp. Along with a hand-spun Merino wool thick n’ thin in color Antler from AmandaJFrench on Etsy is used for the weave. The embroidery is done with Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in metallic gold.

Notions: tapestry needle

Small Weave Pattern Steps:

Set up your weave as described here. Double knot your warp thread on pin #4 from the bottom left. Warp your loom so that 8 pins are warp across the top and 9 pins are warped on the bottom, which includes your beginning double knot and your ending double knot of the warp thread.

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Take a length of white warp thread, about 8 inches long and plain weave it between the warp threads. Pull so both ends of the thread is even on both sides and the thread is sitting up against your loom pegs. Tie the two ends together in a knot. This is what will be used as your tag string.

Step 2: Using one thread of your thick n’ thin, soumak weave (looping around each warp thread) across the first row.

Tip: Weave your soumak a few inches down your warp threads, then push it up all the way to the top so that it is touching your loom pegs. This will give your hands room to weave.

Step 3: For the second row, weave your thick n’ thin yarn in a plain weave. Continue weaving the plain weave so that you have 15 rows of plain weave.

Step 4: Finish your tiny weave with the last row being soumak (looping around each warp thread) all the way across.

WovenGiftTagStep 5: Secure your yarn ends in the back of the weave.

Step 6: Add the embroidered snowflake (steps below).

Embroidery Steps:

Using your weave as a grid, there are 16 warp threads across the top and 17 weft rows down the side. I have numbered the weft threads and the plain weave weft rows (don’t count the soumak rows) for the embroidery pattern.

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Use your gold thread with your tapestry needle. From behind the weave, bring the gold thread up at plain row #4/ warp #4. Pull it diagonally down to row #12/ warp #13 and bring the gold thread through the front of the weave to the back.

Step 2: Bring the gold behind the weave then up at row #4/ warp #13. Pull it diagonally to down to row #12/warp #4 and pull the gold thread through to the back of the weave.

Step 3: Bring the gold behind the weave then up at row #8/ warp #4. Pull it across row #8 to warp #13 and pull it through the to the back of the weave.

Step 4: Bring the gold thread behind the weave then up between warp #8 & #9/ row #4. Pull the thread down warps #8 & #9 to row #12 and pull it through to the back of the weave.

Step 5: Your snowflake is now complete. Secure your gold thread ends in the back of the weave.

Finishing the Small Weave Steps:

WovenGiftTagStep 1: Cut the bottom warp threads about 5 inches from the bottom of the weave.

Step 2: Gently lift the top warp loops off the pegs.

WovenGiftTagStep 3: Flip your weave over to the back. Taking two of the bottom warp threads, tie them in a double knot together. Continue this until all bottom warp threads are tied off.

Step 4: Secure the warp threads in the back of the weave, then trim the excess.

WovenGiftTagYour small weave gift tag is now complete and ready to personalize your gifts!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom (a blog dedicated to helping others learn to weave)

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Nov 21, 2016

Loom FAQs: What is a Lifeline?

Loom FAQs

 

 

 

 

 

I cannot count the number of times I have seen the question asked How do I save my work now that I have made a mistake?  Or the emphatic statement of defeat It is ruined.

And the answer every time is You should have used a lifeline.

Which always leads to more questions…

But what is a lifeline?  How do I use a lifeline?  Do I need to put on in BEFORE I start knitting?  Can I put in AFTER I start?  What do I need to use for a lifeline?

What is a lifeline?

You are sitting there loom knitting one day, and you see a mistake you made several rows back.  OH the HORROR!!!  Then you yell out to your best friend, “Hey, Betty Sue!  My work has a hole!  I’m sinking fast!  Throw me a lifeline!”  That is when Betty Sue looks at you like you have lost your ever loving mind.  Because Betty Sue knows that is not the way a lifeline in knitting works.  And because Betty Sue is a cat…

If that is not how a lifeline works, then what exactly is it?  Well it is a safety line that will help save your work.  It is a piece of yarn that is run through all the stitches to hold them so that your stitches are safe if you need to rip your work back to that point and can be easily put back on the loom.

When do I need a lifeline?

There are different reasons to need a lifeline.  Maybe you are working on a complicated stitch pattern and just want to make sure you have that added protection so you can take the work out if you make a mistake without losing the entire piece.  Or maybe you are wanting to remove your work from the loom because you are decreasing or increasing and are needing to adjust your loom size when using the All-n-One loom or needing to change the loom entirely.

What is the best lifeline to use?

The best lifeline to use is yarn or string that is as follows:

– the same or smaller weight yarn than the yarn you are using so that it will easily go through the stitches

– a contrasting color from your work so it is easy to see

– a fiber type that will easily slide through the stitches like a microfiber or nylon

That last if very important if you are using mohair or another fiber type that easily gets tangled with itself.  Otherwise, if you are using a well spun acrylic, then you can just use acrylic of another color.

Do I need to put it in BEFORE or can I add it LATER?

While it is easier to put in a lifeline before you need it, you can add one later.  Adding it later can be trickier especially if it’s a more complex stitch pattern like cables or lace.  In the case of cables or lace, it is always better to put it in first.

How to place a lifeline BEFORE needing it

When using a lifeline before you need it, you will need to check your work periodically for errors.  If you do not find one, then you will remove the lifeline and place it again where you are.  That way if there is a mistake then you do not need to take it out quite as far.

You will first need to cut your chosen lifeline yarn several inches longer than the work is on the loom.  If you are working in the round, use a piece that will wrap around the loom twice.  If working a flat panel, use a lifeline that is twice the length of the pegs being used.  Or just wrap that yarn around the loom twice no matter if it’s in the round or a flat panel.  If using the afghan loom or another type of figure 8 shape loom, follow the pegs with the yarn around it once then cut it twice as long.

Now you will need to run that lifeline through each stitch on the loom.  There are 2 ways to do this.

You can thread your lifeline on a tapestry needle and run the needle through each stitch.

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or you can just use your loom pick to pull the lifeline through each stitch.  This is my favorite method.

1

 

I like to pull it from the bottom of the loop like a purl but it can be done from the top like a knit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

 

 

Be sure and pull the lifeline to the side and back of the peg before going to the next stitch.

 

 

 

 

5

 

Now the lifeline is running through each stitch but behind the peg so it will not interfere with your next row of work.

 

 

 

 

Once you have the lifeline place, you will continue with your work ignoring that extra strand.  When you know you haven’t made a mistake after working several inches of work, remove the lifeline by simply pulling it out.  Then put it back in the stitches that are on the pegs and start again.

How to place a lifeline AFTER needing it

Like I said previously, some stitch patterns are very hard to add afterward.  But if you are just working something simple like stockinette and discover something weird that you have no clue how you did but want to fix, you can add a lifeline into the work a couple of rows below the offending place.  Then you can rip the piece back to that point and easily place the work back on the loom and start again.

You will need to use a tapestry needle for this so thread your chosen lifeline into that needle and let’s get started!

9

 

Find the edge stitch and run the needle though one side a few rows below the mistake.  If it’s worked in the round, start with the stitch that was worked on peg 1 so the starting stitch will still be the same when placed back on the loom.

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

Then run the needle through the next stitch making sure you are staying on the same row.

 

 

 

 

 

 

12

 

 

This is what it will look like when all the stitches are on the lifeline.

 

 

 

13

 

Then you pull the previous stitches out until all you have are the stitches on the lifeline ready to be put back on the loom.

 

 

 

I hope this helps save some projects from being completely ripped out due to mistakes being found later.  We have all done it and lost projects that we tried to save.

Lifelines are truly a life saver!  And Betty Sue won’t be giving you that look…

Happy loom knitting!!

1 Comment

  • We’re writing to let you know of a new website that is launching in the coming weeks.

    http://www.k3tog.com

    We’re a knitting community hosting knit-a-longs, tutorials, patterns, and a community space for knitters to become friends and help one another (or vent as the situation calls for)

    We plan on featuring a knitter/designer a month and would love for you to contribute (a pattern, yarn, whatever you’d like!)

    We please ask if you could let your followers know we exist! It would be greatly appreciated.

    Looking forward to having you as a member of the k3tog community

    The k3tog team
    – Kendra and Sarah

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Nov 20, 2016

Morgaine’s Capelet

morgaines-capelet-5

LOOM:  Master Zippy + 2 Zippy Looms

YARN:  Approx 264  yds of super bulky weight wool yarn.  Knit Picks Tuff Puff in Silver yarn was used in sample (100% wool, 44 yds per skein).

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle, crochet hook size M.

OTHER:  Button 1-3/8”  (34mm)

GAUGE: 6 sts and 8 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette

SIZE:  57” x 18”

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

W&T=Wrap and Turn: Take working yarn to the front of the peg and then take the yarn to the back and around the peg, working yarn ends to the front of the peg. wrap-and-turn

 

RT=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Knit peg 2.

LT=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

RTP=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Purl peg 2.

LTP=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Purl peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

morgaines-capelet-back

Short-Row Wedge Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K pegs 15-23. W&T peg 24.

Row 3: K from peg 23-15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-21. W&T peg 22.

Row 5: K from peg 21-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-19. W&T 20.

Row 7: K pegs 19-15. P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K pegs 15-17. W&T peg 18.

Row 9: K pegs 17-15. P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K peg 15. W&T peg 16.

Row 11: K peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K from peg 15-26 (working the wrap and the stitches together).

Regular Segment Instructions

Row 1: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14, 13,  and 12. K pegs 11 and 10. P pegs 9, 8, 7, and 6. Knit peg 5. Purl peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 2: P pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4.  LTP on pegs 5 and 6. Purl pegs 7 and 8. RTP on pegs 9 and 10. LTP on pegs 11 and 12. Purl pegs 13 and 14. K to end.

Row 3: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14 and 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 and 10. Knit peg 9. Purl peg 8 and 7. K peg 6. Purl peg 5 and 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 4: P pegs 1-5. LTP on pegs 6 and 7. RTP on peg 8 an d9. P pegs 10 and 11. LTP on pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 5:. K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 6: P pegs 1-6. RT pegs 7 & 8. P pegs 9-12. K peg 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 7: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P peg 14. K peg 13. P pegs 12-9. K pegs 8 and 7. P pegs 6-4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 8: P pegs 1-5. RTP pegs 6 &7. LTP pegs 8 and 9. P pegs 10 & 11. RTP pegs 12 and 13. P peg 14. K to end.

Row 9: K from peg 26 to peg 15.  P pegs 14 & 13. K peg 12. P pegs 11 & 10. K peg 9. P pegs 8 & 7. K peg 6. P pegs 5 & 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 10: P pegs 1-4. RTP pegs 5 & 6. P pegs 7 & 8. LTP pegs 9 & 10. RTP pegs 11 & 12. P pegs 13 & 14. K to end.

Row 11: K from peg 26 to peg 15. P pegs 14-12. K pegs 11 & 10. P pegs 9-6. K peg 5. P peg 4. K pegs 3-1.

Row 12: P pegs 1-4. K peg 5. P pegs 6-9. LT pegs 10 & 11. P pegs 12-14. K to end.

morgaines-capelet-6

INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble Zippy loom as shown below (total of 6 Zippy and 4 corners, 28 pegs).

zippy-with-6-zippy

 

Cast on 26 sts from right to left (first row will be from left to right), prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: (from left to right) k to end of row

Row 2, 4, 6: p to end of row

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 36 rows: Work three Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 3 times).

Next 12 rows: Work one regular segment.

Next 24 rows: Work two Short-Row wedges (Short-Row Wedge Instructions Row 1-12, 2 times).

Next row: k to end.

Next row: to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Next row: k to end.

Next row: p to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Ribbed Neckline-done in two panels

Panel 1:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 26 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Panel 2:

Leaving a 30 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 24 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row  1-6: *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

Assembly

Lay the capelet flat, right side up.

  1. Starting on the left and using long tail from Panel 1, mattress stitch seam panel 1 to the neckline area of the capelet (as shown below).
  2. Pick up Panel 2 and mattress stitch seam it to the remaining neckline area of the capelet.
  3. Mattress stitch both panels together (at the center where Panel 1 ends and Panel 2 begins).assembly-of-the-capelet
  4. Attach button to left side of capelet, about ½” from the neckline.
  5. On the right side of the capelet, so it aligns with the button, create a button loop by crocheting 6 chains.

Weave all ends in. Steam block.

Continue reading »

2 Comments

  • Could we have a video on how to put this together
    I need a visual on this
    And what is a whip stitch?
    I am new to this

  • You mean a mattress stitch? The mattress stitch is a way to seam panels invisibly.

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Nov 15, 2016

Loom Knit & Win

The holiday season is upon us! We have a contest for you and a chance for you to win a $50 KB gift certificate!

We want to see all your KB holiday theme loom knits!

How to enter: Loom knit a holiday theme knit on your KB loom. Submit a picture* to our Facebook page.
Find the Holiday Contest post (it should have the graphic below. In the comments area of the post, post a picture of your submission. Remember, it must have been knit on a KB loom. Tell us a little bit about your knit on the comment–knitting loom you used and yarn.

Deadline: December 15, 2016, midnight MST

Prizes:
Grand prize: $50 KB Gift Certificate
Second Prize: $25 KB Gift Certificate
Third Prize: $10 Gift Certificate

*All entries (photos) will be collected and displayed on our blog at the end of the contest. 

zippy-holiday-contest

3 Comments

  • I love your product sock loom so much that I purchase three of them as gifts. Two of them were destroyed in a domestic violence dispute with my former fiancé. I was so heart broken that he doesn’t recognize the achievements of American made socks, shoes, gloves, & toys that my daughter Ms. Xiomara & I started working on our own designs to piss him off. My daughter and I are so grateful to join your customer base and develop new patterns. Keep us in your thoughts and good intentions always. Thank you for the wonderful creative & practical learning activity that we can do together. Details at http://www.moink.shutterfly.com. Thank you again http://www.linkedin.com/in/yillescas & http://www.linkedin.com/in/millescas

  • Hi, I’ve been trying to post a picture of my Christmas knitted items in the Facebook contest post, but I can’t find the button to post the picture.

  • You can try again. I think we have fixed the issue.

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Nov 14, 2016

Simple Shrug for 18″ Dolls

Whimsical Loom Knits – November 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

You can quickly create this project for your favorite little 18″ doll fan.  Your little doll lover will have so much fun keeping their dollies warm with this soft, snuggly shrug.

img_3669img_3671

Knitting Loom: 32 peg loom

Yarn: Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn.  Suggested yarns include:  Mohair Metallic by Buttercream Luxe Craft or Mohair Mountain by Universal Yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, tape measure.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

Techniques

Duplicate Zigzag Stitch:  The Duplicate Zigzag Stitch (DZ st) is worked on both sides of the knitting board/loom.  The wraps will travel at a slight slant.  In this stitch pattern, one peg at the beginning of each row will serve as a sort of turning peg and will not be wrapped.  When working from left to right, the turning peg is the first peg on the lower board.  When working from right to left, the turning peg is the last wrapped peg on the upper board.

Wrapping in DZ st, l-r:  (Working yarn will be at the first wrapped peg on the lower board).  Take the working yarn to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3677

Wrapping in DZ st, r-l:  (Working yarn will be at the last wrapped peg on the upper board).  Take the working yarn down to the lower board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Take the working yarn back to the upper board and around the nearest wrapped peg.  Continue working in this manner until all the pegs have a second wrap on them, except the turning peg.  Knit the pegs that have two wraps on them.

img_3675

Work back and forth across the board in DZ st until the knitted fabric reaches the desired length, or as directed in the pattern.

 

Instructions

Use a fuzzy/fluffy bulky yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a long yarn tail.  Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 14 pairs of pegs:

img_3674

Double knit using the duplicate zigzag stitch until you have a panel measuring 16″ in length.

img_3663

Bind off.  Leave a long yarn tail.

Fold one end of the panel over.

Create a sleeve:  Use the long yarn tail to sew the two edges together, making a seam measuring 3.5″ in length.  Weave in the yarn end.

img_3668

Repeat this process on the other end of the panel, creating the second sleeve.  Weave in the yarn end.

Slip the shrug onto an 18″ doll and you’re all done with your super simple snuggly shrug <3

img_3670

 

1 Comment

  • This is so cute!!! I love the hat, too!! Is there a pattern for that, too?

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Nov 10, 2016

Fairhaven Poncho

Fairhaven Poncho

Introducing one of the snuggiest ponchos to ever grace the knitting world!  It is created with #7 Jumbo Weight yarn, worked in ribs and twists which serve to bump the warmth and coziness of the piece to incredible levels.  This is for all those times it would be so nice to stay snuggled inside a blanket wherever the day may lead!

Items Needed

LoomZippy Looms assembled to allow for 52 pegs— can be 12 Zippy looms, with 4 Zippy corners, or 13 Zippy looms in a row…can also be knit with only 10 Zippy looms with 4 corners, or 11 Zippy looms in a row, if the side panels are worked separately and then seamed into place during finishing.

Yarn: approx. 440 yards #7 Jumbo Weight (Sample uses 9.5 skeins of Red Heart Grande in Wisteria, 46 yds per skein, 78% acrylic, 22% wool.)  **Note: it is suggested to use a yarn with a wool blend to help in blocking the pullover to the desired size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size:  This design is either very stretchable or has more swing, which allows for just about all women’s sizes. This is why using a wool/wool blend yarn for blocking to the size desired is helpful.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, knitting pins and blocking pins)

Abbreviations:

CO: cast on
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
rt2: right twist over 2 stitches
lt2: left twist over 2 stitches
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:

There are a couple different options for this design.  It can be worked as a longer poncho pullover as is shown in the photos by simply following the instructions as written.  To work this pattern a little shorter, such as for a caplet or shoulder pullover that ends at just about the elbows, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart for only one of the 20 row repeats, ending with Row 22, rather than the two as written, Proceed to the Neck Shaping rows beginning at Row 43.  Also, the arm holes are not added during seaming.

If working with a shorter loom assembly is desired, the side panels can be worked separately from the back panel. Just keep in mind that this will add more seaming to the project during the finishing steps. For the number of Zippys required for this vs. the entire back panel + side panels, see the Loom section above.  When working the side panels separately, follow the instructions for the first 6 sts, and then the last 6 sts of the Back & Side Panels section.  The back panel will be worked on all pegs in between those 12 sts.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  All cable rows are worked from the Left to the Right. They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Front Panel

Set up Rows:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 41 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Row 1:  p2, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2:  k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to end of row.

Main Pattern Rows:

Rows 3-5:  repeat Rows 1 and 2, ending with Row 1.

Row 6: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 7:  p2, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 11:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Fairhaven Pullover, backRow 12:  k1, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 13:  p3, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 14:  k1, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k1, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Row 17:  repeat Row 1.

Row 18: *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 3-22.

Neck Shaping:

Row 43:  p2, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, BO 2 sts, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p2.

Row 44: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [lt2], BO right st of lt2. Drop yarn from skein 1 and add another skein to the 2nd half of the panel: [rt2], BO left st of rt2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 45:  p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 2 and pick up yarn from skein 1: BO 1 st, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2,, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 46:  k1, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, BO 1 st. Drop yarn from skein 1 and pick up yarn from skein 2: BO 1 st, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 47:  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 2.  BO 13 sts, cut yarn from skein 1.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

 

Back & Side Panels

**Note: See Pattern Notes for details on working these three panels separately with fewer Zippy looms.

Set up Rows:

Rows 1-5:  p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1.

Main Pattern Rows:

Row 6:  k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 7:  p7, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.

Row 8: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 9:  repeat Row 7.

Row 10: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 11:  p7, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p7. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 12:  k6, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 13:  p8, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Row 14:  k6, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 15:  repeat Row 13.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 16:  k6, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 7 sts, p1, k6.

Row 17:  repeat Row 11.

Row 18: k5, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 7.

Fairhaven Pullover, side/backRow 20:  repeat Row 8.

Row 21:  repeat Row 7.

Row 22:  repeat Row 10.

Row 23:  repeat Row 11.

Row 24:  k6, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, k1, p1, k6.

Row 25:  repeat Row 11.

Rows 23-42:  repeat Rows 6-25.

Back Shaping:

Row 43:  p7, k1, p2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, k1, p7.

Row 44: k6, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 45:  p7, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p7.

Row 46:  k6, p1, k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1, p1, k6.

Row 47:  p6, BO 9 sts (to peg 15), k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1,  BO 9 sts (to peg 40), p6.  (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood

Prepare to work just the center 16 pegs to continue the cable pattern up through the center of the hood.  The side pieces will be picked up later and can either just stay on the loom, or can be safely removed onto stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn for safe keeping.

Row 48:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, [rt2], p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 49:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 50:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 51:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 52:  k1, p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], p1, k1.

Row 53:  k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Row 54:  k1, p2, work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p2, k1.

Row 55:  repeat Row 53.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 56:  k1, p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], p1, k1.

Row 57:  repeat Row 51.

Row 58:  k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.

Row 59:  repeat Row 49.

Row 60:  repeat Row 48.

Row 61:  repeat Row 49.

Row 62:  repeat Row 50.

Rows 63-65:  repeat Row 51.

Row 66:  repeat Row 58.

Row 67:  repeat Row 49.

Rows 68-87:  repeat Rows 48-67.

Bind off these 16 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Hood Side Panels:

Working on the 6 side panel sts on the left, place live sts back onto the loom if needed, and work as follows:

Rows 1-20:  repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: k6.

B: p6.

Row 21: k6, CO to 2 additional pegs (these will be on the side closest to the center cable panel).

Rows 22-51: repeat the following 2 row pattern:

A: p8.

B: k8.

Fairhaven Pullover, 3Bind off these 8 sts loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)

Repeat for the right side panel, making sure to CO the extra 2 sts toward the center cable panel.

Finishing

Invisibly seam the side hood panels to the center hood panel, keeping even throughout. Using knitting pins will help with the seaming. When the side hood panel narrows to 6 sts, the shoulder should have been reached.  Seam the back shoulder area closed smoothly.  In order to achieve the raised chain look that the sample shows, stitch the side panel just a bit underneath the BO at the shoulders.

Beginning at the bottom, invisibly seam the front panel to the side panels, keeping the area of approximately 15 rows at the center of the horizontal running cables open for arm holes.  Make sure the two sides are stitched evenly so that the pullover lays smoothly and is balanced.  Continue to seam all the way to the outside edges of the center “V” at the neck edge.  To achieve the raised chain look, repeat the procedure of stitching the side panel just underneath the BO edges at the shoulders.

Finish ends and trim close to work.  For this almost rope-like yarn, it is sometimes difficult to weave in securely.  Feel free to tie the joining yarn ends into square knots. Stretch the knitting as the ends are woven in to help ensure they don’t come loose.

Block thoroughly so that the cables “pop” and the size is as desired. (Sample uses steam blocking)

 

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

 

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8 Comments

  • That is lovely hon.

  • Thank you, Monique! :D

    Bethany~

  • The cables on this look beautiful!

  • Oh, thank you, Christine! :) They are just simple 2 peg twists, but provide a big wow factor, right? Especially in this Zippy gauge.

    Bethany~

  • Hi I am a little confused about the cast on of 41 pegs when I follow the pattern.
    I’m some how going over to 43 pegs I have done this 4 times and each time when I follow from *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from *
    If I go 2 times is to short and leaves a long ways to the end of the 41 pegs
    and 3 times is to long when adding the end p1. Going past the cast on.
    I hope you can make sense of what I mean and maybe see my mess up. I apologize for the inconvenience I’m stumped and I usually better on videos. I’m hoping you can see wher I am making a mistake I configured the zippy loom set as directed.
    Thanks Chyre

  • Hi Chyre :) Thank you for your question! Yes, the CO really is 41 pegs. The confusion comes from the “repeat to last stitch”. You will be literally repeating those sts until you reach the last peg in line, which then will be a purl. It is not a full repeat on that last time…you just repeat until the last peg is reached. ;)

    I believe this may be the only time in the pattern that this happens, as every other repeat should complete when it reaches whatever number is stated for those last sts. So sorry for the confusion!

    Here’s a tip, in case you run into something else confusing: the front panel is primarily the pattern’s chart repeated, with just a vertical column of purls after repeating the chart three times (so on peg 40). There are also two vertical columns, one each on the very outsides of the repeated pattern chart (so pegs 1 and 41) that are made up of garter stitch (knits alternating with purls). This makes a good reference point to check against.

    If you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

  • Dear Bethany.
    Goodmorning and Thank you so much! I understand that completely now. I really love this pattern and was getting frustrated with myself. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. :)

  • Oh, good, Chyre! :) I’m so glad I could help clear things up for you. No need to be frustrated…I’m always happy to help. I am so thrilled you love the design and are whipping one up! There is a project page for this on Ravelry that you can link your own to, so we can all enjoy it along with you. Can’t wait to see it! :D

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Nov 7, 2016

Stitchology 26: Mesh Stitch

This lacy stitch is super simple to create and yet still makes a beautiful statement.  There are only 4 rows to repeat in this one, making it a perfect pattern to create from memory…excellent for the beginning of the busy holiday season November brings.  The pattern in this one reminds me of a pretty woven bread basket my mom used to use at her Thanksgiving table every year. This stitch looks lovely from the back side as well, making it a terrific one for projects that may be seen from both sides, such as scarves, shawls and blankets.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Mesh Stitch Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (sample uses Lion Wool in Pumpkin)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 3,+2 added stitches at the end—this is the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat, plus the last stitches of the round will be just the first 2 of the 3 repeat stitches due to the nature of this stitch pattern.  The vertical purl lines will be one stitch closer together at this spot, so it is best placed at the back, or in a fairly inconspicuous spot on your project.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

This stitch pattern can be made into a very uniform and more open lacy design by stretching it taut while pinning during the blocking step.  Make sure it has had a sufficient soaking time to help accommodate this look.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.  The e-wraps are then untwisted when working them during the next row to emphasize the eyelet holes.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two pegs.

[k2tog, yo]:  Work over 2 pegs from right to left <: Move the loop from peg 2 (the yo peg) to peg 1 (the k2tog peg). Using the working yarn, knit the bottom 2 loops as one on the k2tog peg, then e-wrap the empty yo peg.

[yo, ssk]: Work over 2 pegs from right to left <: Move the loop from peg 1 (the yo peg) to peg 2 (the ssk peg). Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty yo peg, then knit the bottom 2 loops as one on the ssk peg.

All the e-wraps are then untwisted when working them during the next row to emphasize the eyelet holes.

Repeating Pattern Rows

The Repeating Pattern Rows for this stitch are fairly tricky to explain, as they are repeating 2 rows of a 2 stitch repeat and 2 rows of a 3 stitch repeat.  They can be represented here in only a repeat of 3 stitches, but they are shown to 9 stitches so that the idea of how they travel down the row can be seen in its entirety.

So, in order to repeat this pattern when working in the round, simply keep repeating these stitches for the number of rows needed, with all rows beginning from the right side.  Please see the Pattern Notes for more instructions on this.

For repeating this stitch pattern when working as a flat panel, end at a number divisible by 3, within the chosen border.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

eyelets-angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 36 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p36.

Row 2: k36.

Row 3: p36.

Row 4: k36.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p2, *p1, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6:  *k2, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 7:  p2, *p1, yo, ssk, repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8:  Repeat Row 6.

Rows 9-58:  Repeat Rows 5-8.

Finishing Rows

Row 59: p36.

Row 60: k36.

Row 61: p36.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

2 Comments

  • Would it be possible for you to make a video of the steps for things like the yarn overs, ssk, etc. techniques for patterns like this. I’m a super audio/visual learner and can’t seem to get those steps right from just written directions.

  • Hi Deb :)

    Well, let’s walk through this to help you out…

    First of all, a yarn over in this case is simply an ewrap. This ewrap will be untwisted when you’re ready to knit it into the next row…you don’t *have* to take the twist out, but it helps open up those eyelets better. ;)

    I generally don’t make videos for techniques that can be found elsewhere, but when it’s a new thing for the Stitchology column, or loom knitting in general, then I like to do a video.

    The following is a technique video I did for all three of the techniques involved in the Mesh Stitch: K2tog, ssk, and an ewrap YO. It is for the stitch Spring Bunnies: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbeANK7hcU8

    This will get you all caught up on the actual techniques, then you just plug those skill into whatever pattern you desire. :D

    If you have any additional questions, please don’t hesitate to drop a comment!
    Bethany~

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Nov 5, 2016

Zippy Faux Möbius Scarf

mobius_scarf

 

The zippy faux möbius scarf is very simple and fast to knit. Worked completely in garter stitch and then a simple twist creates a unique scarf.

What is a möbius strip? It is a one-sided surface that is constructed from a rectangle by holding one end fixed, rotating the opposite end through 180 degrees, and joining it to the first end.

Mobius_band

Materials

Knitting loom:  (3) Zippy Looms.

Yarn: Approx: 60 yards of super bulky yarn. Loops & Threads Artisan was used in sample.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

K=e-wrap knit stitch

P=purl stitch

CO=cast on

BBO=basic bind off

St(s)=stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 12 sts (left to right)

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Repeat Row 1 and Row 2: 25 more times.

Twist the panel, place the cast on row back on the knitting loom. Each peg has two loops on it.Perform a basic bind off (treat the two loops on each peg as one loop).

Weave ends in.

 

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Nov 1, 2016

Slipped Purl Cowl

sliped-purl-cowl

Keep away the chill with this sumptuous cowl as you walk around this fall season enjoying the crisp fall air. 

Materials

Knitting Loom: (6) Zippy Looms, (4) Zippy Corners.

Yarn: 80 yards of Super Bulky wool. Malabrigo Rasta, shown in Abril was used in sample (less than 1 skein).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle

Gauge: 5 sts x 7 rows= 4 inches

Abbreviations

P=purl stitch

K=knit stitch

Slwyb=Slip with yarn back. Skip peg with yarn towards the back of the peg.

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rnd(s)=Round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up knitting loom as shown on this picture: Use 1 connector to connect 2 zippy looms together, repeat with the other 2 Zippy looms. Place corners at each end of the two rails. Slide the remaining two Zippys at each end, connecting them to the rails with the corners.

zippy-with-6-zippy

Cast on 28 sts using the ewrap cast on.

Rnd 1: *p6, k1; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *p6, sl1wyb; rep from * to end of rnd.

Repeat Rnd 1 and Rnd 2: until about 30 inches of yarn remain.

Bind off loosely with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in.

 

 

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Oct 29, 2016

Crossed Paths Cap

A hat to keep you cozy warm while on the trails or out and about town in the cool weather seasons. This unisex design is high on style and low on difficulty level, with its one and only row of cable design to really make this hat pop!

Knitting Loom: Adjustable Hat Loom set to the large size, 84 pegs, with pegs in each hole.

Yarn: Approximately 140 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample used handspun yarn 50% merino wool 50% alpaca.

Notions: knitting tool, cable needle, one removable stitch marker, 6mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc), scissors, knitting pins, yarn needle, row counter.

Gauge: 4 sts x 7.5 rows= 1 inch (in pattern, using U-Stitch).

Finished Measurements: Circumference: 21″,  Height: 10″.

Skills Needed: Knit/U-stitch, Purl, 6st-rc/kpk Cable (described in Pattern Notes), Chain Cast On (or CO of your choice).

Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
Rnd(s): round(s)
Rep: repeat
K: knit stitch/U-stitch
P: purl stitch
KO: knit off
St(s): stitches
WY: working yarn
CO: cast on
6st-rc/kpk: 6 stitch right cross cable, k2, p2, k2
BO: bind off

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses 1 strand of yarn held throughout.

For the sample, all knit stitches were made using the U-stitch. Work whichever type of knit stitch helps you achieve the proper gauge.

Flat Drawstring Bind Off tutorial (instructions for this specific hat are included in the Finishing section below…video is listed for a helpful visual).

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 6 pegs in the correct order.They are all worked the same—as right cross cables (a twist with the sts running to the right) with both knit and purl stitches combined.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places. It may help to ewrap the first 2 and the last 2 stitches that will be worked into the cable in the following row, just make sure to untwist the ewraps before knitting them into the cables.

[6st-rc/kpk]:  Worked over 6 pegs, from right to left (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1):

  • -Lift the loops from the first 4 pegs of the cable (1-4) and place them on the cable needle.
  • -Bring your working yarn behind pegs 1-4 and knit the stitch on peg 5.
  • -Move this stitch (peg 5) over to peg 1 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn that is allowable at this point.
  • -Bring your working yarn behind pegs 2-5 and knit the stitch on peg 6.
  • -Move this stitch (peg 6) over to peg 2 of the cable pegs.  Pull out any slack in the yarn that is allowable at this point.
  • -Lift the first stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 4 and move it back to peg 4.
  • -Lift the second stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 3 and move it back to peg 3.  Purl these 2 stitches (pegs 3 & 4).
  • -Lift the stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 1 and move it to peg 5.  Knit this stitch.
  • -Lift the last stitch from the cable needle that was previously on peg 2 and move it to peg 6.  Knit this stitch.
  • -Work out any slack that may be left throughout the 6 cable stitches.

chart-key-crossed-paths-cap

Repeating Pattern Rows

(This chart details the 14 repeating pattern stitches in the round.  The rows in the chart detail how they are worked to Row 32.  Row 32 is then repeated to Row 62, then the crown shaping begins, as is shown in the pattern instructions below.)

crossed-paths-cap-chart

Instructions

Crossed Paths Cap with tree

Set loom to use 84 pegs, with pegs set in every hole.  CO onto all pegs in the round.

Rnds 1-10: *k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 11-16: Repeat the following 2 row pattern: 

Row A: k84

Row B: p84

Rnds 17-20: Rep Rnd 1. (As stated in Pattern Notes, knit Rnd 20 loosely.)

Rnd 21: *k2, p3, 6st-rc/kpk, p3, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 22-25: Rep Rnd 1.

Rnds 26-31: rep Rnds 11-16.

Rnds 32-62: Rep Rdn 1.

Crown Decreasing:

Rnd 63:  Decrease at every section of 3 purls together for a total of 12 decreases in the following way:

Move the center purl loops over one peg and purl 2 loops together as 1 while working the row below. The spaces can be just left alone and the yarn carried behind the empty pegs, or each 3 peg connector can be removed from the loom and the sts moved to fill in all the empty pegs.  If the loom sections are removed, the loom will now be unconnected on the sides, but it is still held together by the knitting, so can continue to be worked.

Work the rnd as follows:  *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd. (Purl the pegs with 2 loops as if they are 1.)

Rnds 64-68:  *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 69:  Decrease at every section of 2 knit pairs for a total of 18 decreases in the following way:

At every pair of knit stitches, move one knit loop over to the other knit peg and knit 2 loops together as 1 while working the row below. Each 11 peg connector can be removed from the loom and replaced with a 3 peg connector on each side. Shift the sts to fill in all the empty pegs, but there will still be 2 pegs left empty.  Situate these 2 empty pegs so that one is placed in between 2 different sets of purl pegs.

Work the rnd as follows:  *k1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd. (Knit the pegs with 2 loops, 2 over 1.)

Rnds 70-74:  *k1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Finishing

Crossed Paths Tree back

  • -Wrap WY around the loom twice and cut at this point.
  • -Add a yarn needle and thread through every purl st in order, trailing the WY behind the knit pegs. Release all purl sts from their pegs.  Give the WY a gentle pull to add tension on all the purl sts.
  • -Add a removable stitch marker onto your WY at this point.
  • -Thread through every knit st in order, releasing them from their pegs.
  • -Firmly pull the yarn tail section that is before the stitch marker, so that all the purl sts are now completely gathered closed.
  • -While keeping this section tight, firmly gather the remaining knit sts closed and knot in place. (Remove the stitch marker just before completely closing the knit sts section.) Sew closed any opening still remaining.
  • -Pull tail to the inside of the hat and knot the purl gathers securely in place.

Weave in all ends and block to size preferred.

To leave a question or comment for Bethany Dailey, simply add your comments to the section below! :)

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Oct 24, 2016

Loom Weaving: Rya Knots

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Rya knots go with weaving like ice cream and apple pie. You can use rya knots in your weavings to make pops of texture, to make a shag weave, or to add a gorgeous fringe. I’ve paired a fluffy hand-spun yarn with a golden warp thread to make a dreamy weave.

Loom: All-in-One Loom & 20-Peg-Extenders

Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Classic Size 10 in metallic gold is used for the warp. Along with a hand-spun Merino wool thick n’ thin in color Antler from AmandaJFrench on Etsy is used for the weave.

Notions: tapestry needle, wooden dowel rod

Rya Knot Steps:

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 1: Cut a length of thread that is twice as long as you want your rya knot to hang.

Step 2: Bring the middle of the thread over two warp threads.

Step 3: Take left side of the thread and pass it around the warp thread on the left and pull it up so that it is between the left warp thread and the right warp thread.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Step 4: Now take the right side of the thread, pass it around the warp thread on the right and pull it up so that it also is between the left warp thread and the right warp thread.

Step 5: Pull both the thread ends evenly so that they pull tight against the warp threads creating a rya knot.

Tip: once you have made all your rya knots, weave at least 2 rows of plain weave to secure the knots and tighten them as necessary.

White & Gold Wall Hanging Pattern:

Set up your weave as described here. Double knot your warp thread on pin #2 from the bottom left. Warp your loom so that 18 pins are warp across the top and 19 pins are warped on the bottom, which includes your beginning double knot and your ending double knot of the warp thread. Tie your anchor thread across the top of the warp loops.

Weave 22 rows of the plain weave using your white yarn. This makes the body of the weave.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Next to create the diagonal rya knots, follow this:

  • Cut 3 pieces of the white thread 18 inches long. Using 2 warp threads each, tie three rya knots starting on the right side.
  • Cut 3 pieces of white thread 14 inches long. Tie 3 more rya knots.
  • Cut 2 pieces 12 inches long, tie 2 more rya knots
  • Cut 3 pieces 8 inches long, tie 3 more rya knots
  • Cut 3 pieces 6 inches long, tie the 3 in rya knots
  • Cut 2 pieces 4 inches long, tie the 2 in rya knots

Now that all the warp threads have rya knots tied on them, weave two rows of plain weave below the rya knots.

Rya Knot Weave on a Knitting Loom!Following the similar finishing instructions here, cut your bottom warp threads about an inch from the bottom of the longest rya knot thread.  The golden warp thread will be all one length across and will peek out as the white thread is at a diagonal.  Tie 2 warp threads into a single knot, making sure they are tight against the bottom plain weave row to finish. Carefully remove the top warp loops from the loom pegs, then twist each one and put the dowel rod through the loops.

Enjoy your white and gold weave!

Happy Weaving!

Kate from The Weaving Loom (a blog dedicated to helping others learn to weave)

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Oct 23, 2016

Men’s Striped Socks

men-socks-2

Using a superb self-striping yarn allows you to simply knit at your heart’s content without having to worry about color changes.

LOOM:  Sock Loom 2

YARN:  Approx 275 yds of DK weight yarn.  Viking Aurora Super Sock in color #668 was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles size 2 (used for grafting the toe area close).

SIZE:  Fits a men’s size 9. To create larger/smaller sizes, work less rounds in the foot area.

GAUGE:  12.5 sts x 16 rows= 2 inches in stockinette.

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx=approximately

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)

W&T=wrap and turn (remove stitch from the peg, wrap the yarn working yarn around the peg (take the yarn to the inside of the loom, then go around the peg so that working yarn ends up to the front of the loom)).

men-socks

INSTRUCTIONS
(make 2)

Cast on 48 sts, prepare to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1-16: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Next 56 rnds: k to end of rnd.

Heel

Short-row heel over 24 pegs

Knit from peg 1-23. W&T peg 24

Knit from peg 23-2. W&T peg 1

Knit from peg 2-22. W&T peg 23

Knit from peg 22-3. W&T peg 2

Knit from peg 3-21. W&T peg 22

Knit from peg 21-4. W&T peg 3

Knit from peg 4-20. W&T peg 21

Knit from peg 20-5. W&T peg 4

Knit from peg 5-19. W&T peg 20

Knit from peg 19-6. W&T peg 5

Knit from peg 6-18. W&T peg 19

Knit from peg 18-7. W&T peg 6

Knit from peg 7-19 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 20

Knit from peg 19-6 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 5 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 6-20(treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 21 (two wraps and the stitch)

Knit from peg 20-5 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 4 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 5-21 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 22 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 21-4 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 3 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 4-22(treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 23 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 22-3 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 2 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 3-23(treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop) . W&T peg 24 (two wraps and a stitch)

Knit from peg 23-2 (treat the wrap and the stitch as one loop). W&T peg 1 (two wraps and a stitch).

Pegs 1 and 24 have the wraps and the stitch. On the first round for the foot, work the wraps and the stitch together as a regular stitch.

Sole and Foot

Next row: k to end of rnd.

Rep last rnd until foot measures approx 8.5 inches from the end of heel (or 1.5 inches less than desired length).

Toe

Rep short-row heel instructions for toe area.

At the end, you will have Peg 1 and peg 24 with an extra wrap, lift this wrap up and off the peg.

Grafting the Toe Close

Remove stitches 48-25 and place stitches on one double pointed needle. Remove the remaining stitches from the loom and place them on second double pointed needle.

Using the kitchener stitch, graft the toes close.

 

 

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Oct 17, 2016

Loom FAQs: How do I decrease crowns of hats?

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One of the first things that people learn to knit on looms are hats.  But due to the nature of knitting looms, these hats are made as a tube then gathered at the top.  These hats are always bulky at the top due to the gathering.  I have seen people ask “how do I keep the tops from being too bulky?”  “Is there a way to decrease the top of a hat?”  “Can I make the hat top down like in needle patterns?”

So is there a way?  While there are some techniques that help keep the bulk of gathering a tube on a knitting loom, there is also a way to decrease the top of a hat so that the crown is smooth.

hat-decrease

Hat with decreased crown knit on the All-n-One loom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What loom can I use to decrease?

You will need an adjustable loom in order to decrease the top of a hat.  While it may be achieved by using various round looms, getting the peg count correct is the tricky part.  You need a loom that can adjust the exact number of pegs you need after each decrease round.

The All-n-One loom is one such loom.  The sliders make it easy to adjust to any peg count as you decrease.

Can I just start at the top of the hat and increase instead of decreasing?

Yes.  But I feel that decreasing is easier than increasing.  Therefore, I will demonstrate how to work a hat from the brim up then decrease the top.

Is it hard to decrease the top of a hat?

It really isn’t that hard to decrease on the All-n-One loom.  It does take a bit more effort and time to do it.  But that smooth crown is worth the effort.

How do I decrease?  

While there are various stitch counts and methods of decreasing a crown, there is one gradual decrease that I like best.

The decrease can be worked with a stitch count that is divisible by either 6 or 8.  While I prefer to work the gradual decrease when the stitch multiples are 8, a stitch count with a multiple of 6 can be done as well.  It is personal preference.  I will include instructions for both.

What does a multiple of 8 stitches mean?

If the total stitch count can be evenly divided by 8 then it is a multiple of 8.  Common hat sizes in small gauge using medium/worsted weight yarn that are multiples of 8 are 72 and 80 pegs for adults, 72 and 64 pegs for youth, 56 and 64 pegs for toddler/child, 48 and 56 pegs for baby.

Gradual Decrease

The loom will need to be adjusted down in size BEFORE each decrease round.

Remove the work by placing each stitch on a lifeline.  A lifeline is a piece of yarn that is about 40 inches for a hat that is in a contrasting color.  Run the lifeline through each stitch starting with peg 1 and ending with the last peg.  Then remove the work from the loom.

Adjust the loom to the smaller size.  Then place each stitch back on the loom following the row that you are on.  Place each stitch that is to be knitted one by one then placing 2 loops for the K2tog (knit 2 together).  Continue until all the loops are back on the loom.

When placing the stitches on the peg for the K2tog, always place the stitches in the same order.  If the stitches are not always placed on the peg in the same order, the decreases will not all slant in the same direction making the finished product not a clean looking.

Then work the round.

The loom can be adjusted with the work still on the loom.  If this is done, I would recommend using a yarn that has some stretch to it.  First you will need to move all the stitches for the K2tog.  Then start from the slider ends and move the stitches inward while moving the sliders to fill in the empty pegs.  If using stitch markers, they will need to be moved as well so that the k2tog will always happen in the same place each time.

The loom will be at the smallest before the last decrease round.  It will be fine to have the stitches every other peg for that last decrease round.  Just be sure and bring the working yarn behind the empty peg before working the next stitch.

The last rows will be worked in stockinette.

Here are the abbreviations.

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

Rnd – round

Rep – repeat

Multiple of 8 Stitch Count Decrease

Start your decrease when you have 14 rounds left on your hat.

Rnd 1:  *K6, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 2:  K all

Rnd 3:  *K5, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 4:  K all

Rnd 5:  *K4, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 6:  K all

Rnd 7:  *K3, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 8:  K all

Rnd 9:  *K2, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 10:  K all

Rnd 11:  *K1, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 12:  K all

Rnd 13:  *K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 14:  K all

Gather remaining stitches and secure.

Multiple of 6 Stitch Count Decrease

Start your decrease when you have 10 rounds left on your hat.

Rnd 1:  *K4, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 2:  K all

Rnd 3:  *K3, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 4:  K all

Rnd 5:  *K2, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 6:  K all

Rnd 7:  *K1, K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 8:  K all

Rnd 9:  *K2tog, rep from * around

Rnd 10:  K all

Gather remaining stitches and secure.

hat-decrease-crown

 

 

Now you have a nicely domed crown for your lovely knitting hat!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never be afraid of trying something new!  Enjoy the knit!

6 Comments

  • Thanks for the info! Can’t wait to try it with my next hat!

  • Hi I have a question on the k2tog say like example
    You knit 4 pegs then do you take one of the stitches
    From the next peg after you knit 4 and move it over to
    The next peg and then knit that peg and the keep repeating
    Knit4 the k2tog together to decrease and continue the the other
    Instructions as follow for each row I just get mixed up about the k2tog
    Thing

    Sherri Ristow

  • I am so glad you can decrease stitches by using your loom. I have avoided making hats because I didn’t like the tube style hats was all you can make. Now to find some patterns. Thank you for the tutorial.

  • How did you know I had been trying to figure this out?! Thank you so much for helping my brain. Now can you tell me how to increase.

  • Sherri,

    When you k2tog, you are literally knitting 2 stitches together. How you do that is, as in the first round of decreases that you mentioned, you knit the stitches on pegs 1 – 4. When you get to peg 5, you move the stitch from peg 6 to peg 5 so that there are 2 stitches on that peg and knit both loops over as one. If you are using the lifeline method to remove the hat, adjust the loom, and then replace the stitches, you will do as follows. After the hat is off the loom and the loom is adjusted to the smaller size, you will put the stitches back on pegs 1 – 4. Then you will place the next 2 loops on peg 5. Continue with the next 4 stitches on the next 4 pegs, pegs 6 – 9, and then 2 stitches on the 10th peg. Continue around the loom. After all the stitches are back on the loom, knit then entire round, treating the pegs with 2 loops as 1.

    I hope that helps clarify the k2tog for you.

    Renita

  • Thanks for this, I am going to give it a try. I have been making hats and have released the bulk at the end by making the last 8 rows an k3 p3 or k4 p4 repeat depending on the design multiples. and then cinch off the purls first then pick up the knits to finish off the closure.

    This style will be much nicer of a finish.

    Thanks again

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Oct 15, 2016

Zippy Twisted Rope Scarf

0161

Fall is finally here! Time to take out the scarfs, hats, and mittens! Perfect time to knit a luscious knit for the guys’ in our lives! Whenever I think men knits, cables come to mind and this time with the Zippy loom to create a thick, warm scarf. A simple, yet attractive rope cable twists around the body of this scarf. Although it looks intricate to create, the two stitch twists are rather simple and provide with a tight cable.

Photo credit: Wendell Pace. Website: pacephoto.com

LOOM:  Zippy Master (17 pegs used)

YARN:  Approx 225 yds of super bulky weight yarn (#7).  Lion Brand Color Clouds yarn in Traveler’s Yarn was used in sample.

NOTIONS:  Knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle (optional).

GAUGE: 5 sts and 8 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette.

SIZE: 11 x 68 inches (not counting tassels)

ABBREVIATIONS

approx=approximate

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

CO=Cast on

BBO=Basic Bind off

st(s)=stitch(es)

rnd(s)=Round(s)

RT=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Knit peg 2.

LT=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

RTP=Take loop off first peg and hold it to the center of the loom on the cable needle. Knit peg 2. Move loop from second peg to peg 1. Place loop from cable needle on peg 2. Purl peg 2.

LTP=Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg. Purl peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 to cable needle and hold to center of loom. Knit peg 1. Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2. Place loop from cable needle on peg 1.

0149

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 17 sts from right to left. First row will be worked from left to right.

Row 1-4: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 5: k3, p3, k2, p4, k1, p1, k3.

Row 6: p3, p1, LTP, p2, RTP, LTP, p2, p3.

Row 7: k3, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k3.

Row 8: p3, p2, LTP, RTP, p2, LTP, p1, p3.

Row 9: k3, p1, k1, p4, k2, p3, k3.

Row 10: p3, p3, RT, p4, k1, p1, p3.

Row 11: k3, p1, k1, p4, k2, p3, k3.

Row 12: p3, p2, RTP, LTP, p2, RTP, p1, p3.

Row 13: k3, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k3.

Row 14: p3, p1, RTP, p2, LTP, RTP, p2, p3.

Row 15: k3, p3, k2, p4, k1, p1, k3.

Row 16: p3, p1, k1, p4, LT, p3, p3.

Rep Row 5-16 until you have reached approx. 66 inches from cast on edge.

Next 4 rows: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

BBO. Weave ends in.

 

 

FINISHING

Fringes: Cut 34 pieces of yarn that are about 10 inches in length each.

Add 17 fringes to cast on edge. Add the remaining 17 fringes to the bind off edge.

  • Fold the strand of yarn for one fringe in half, forming a small loop at one edge (make sure the ends on the other end of the strand match in length).
  • Use crochet hook and draw the loop through the single crochet stitch where you are attaching the fringe to.
  • Now catch the loose ends of the yarn strand through the loop (thus creating the loop)
  • Tighten the knot by pulling gently on the fringe ends with your hand and holding the knot with the other hand.
  • Trim the ends if necessary to make all the tassels/fringes the same length.

 

 

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Oct 10, 2016

Whimsical Loom Knits – Mini Gnome

Whimsical Loom Knits – October 2016

Designed by Jenny Stark

This charming little gnome can be created in an afternoon.  This quick little project is so much fun, you’ll want to make an entire clan of mini gnomes.  Have fun!

img_3657

Knitting Loom: KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn: Small amounts of worsted weight yarn in various colors.

Notions: knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle.

Other Materials: 3″ wood peg doll, glue gun and glue, black paint for eyes.

Gauge: Not critical for this project.

 

Instructions

Robe:

Use worsted weight yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a slightly longer yarn tail and cast on 14 pegs:

Rows 1-10:  E-wrap to end of row.

Bind off using the basic bind off method.  Leave a long yarn tail.  Using the long yarn tail from the bind off, seam the two edges of the panel together, creating a tube.  Weave in the yarn end.  Slip the tube onto the body of one of the wood dolls from the Peg Pair package.  Using the yarn tail from the cast on, gather the neckline of the robe and cinch it snug around the wood doll’s neck.  Weave in the yarn end and set the doll aside for now.

 

Hat:

Use worsted weight yarn in the color of your choice.  Leave a long yarn tail and cast on 12 pegs:

Row 1:  K2, P2 to end of row.

Row 1:  P2, K2 to end of row.

Rows 3-5:  E-wrap to the end of the row.

Row 6:  K2tog, E-wrap to the end of the row.

Repeat row 6 until there are only 2 stitches left on the loom.

Next row:  K2tog.

Fasten off the last stitch remaining on the loom and remove the hat from the loom.  Using the long tail from the cast on, seam the edges of the panel together, forming a pointed hat.  Weave in both yarn ends and set the hat aside for now.

 

Face and Beard:

Dip a pencil in the black paint.  Create eyes: use the pencil to add two dots to the wood doll.

img_3651

Cut six 3” lengths of white or gray worsted weight yarn.  Use the glue gun to adhere them to the face, below the eyes.

img_3652

Untwist the yarn strands (use the pick tool to help with this, if you like) and trim the beard to the desired length and shape.

 

Hair:

Cut twelve 5” lengths of the same yarn.  Use the glue gun to adhere them to the top of the head.

img_3654

Untwist the yarn strands and trim the hair to the desired length and shape.

Place the hat on the doll’s head.

Adorable!

img_3659

 

ps -the little mushroom house shown in the main photo for this pattern was created using a small oatmeal container.  The container was turned upside down and covered in white felt.  A little tan felt door was glued to the front of the container.  The top of a metal brad was used as a door knob for the little door.  The container is topped off with a red yarn cap that was lightly stuffed so the cap would hold its shape better.   Small white circles of felt were glued to the red yarn cap.  Add any other desired decorations and you have a pretty sweet house for your mini gnome :)

4 Comments

  • I am so into the Gnome , & seeing this, never thought of knitting one. . Thank You for this Special little Gnome. I Will Absolutely make this for ME , , LOL <3

  • This is so absolutely darling, Jenny!!! :D I love this little Gnomey! <3

  • Thank you, Bethany!

  • Thank you Carolyn! I am so glad you like my little gnome. I hope you have fun making one of your very own.

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Oct 3, 2016

Stitchology 25: 4-Stranded Basketweave

This is a truly lovely and eye catching design for you to create on your looms!  I love the accentuated woven look it provides.  My hubby is one who doesn’t usually pay particular attention to the subtleties of my various knitting stitches, but when I showed him this one, he was immediately pleased with the look and said, “Now that’s an interesting stitch!”  :)  Even though this stitch is a 16 row repeat, once you get the hang of how the rows flow, they can be worked entirely from memory.

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;) To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

4-Stranded Basketweave Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage mellow) *Note: It really helps to use a yarn with a very high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help straighten those long strands.

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

It really helps to use a yarn with a very high wool content for thoroughly blocking this square to help straighten those long strands.

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time. Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 6—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows. The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

A SWYF in the pattern denotes that this peg will not be worked, but will have the working yarn (WY) carried to the front of the work.  To do this, simply remove the loop already on the peg, slip the WY in front of the work and behind the peg, then replace the held loop back onto the peg.  This stitch pattern will do this in groups of four stitches at a time.

*SWYF Notes:  Because this stitch requires slipping 4 pegs at a time, make sure to pull slipped strands taut when knitting the next stitch after the slipped stitches.  This will keep the strands from sagging after the square is complete and blocked.

Another easy way to work a SWYF is to begin to work a purl stitch, but instead of lifting the original loop off the peg and placing the new loop on the peg as you do when purling, simply KO the new loop, leaving the original one in place.  Pull gently to free the WY, which will now be between the peg and the front of the work.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:
Rows 1 & all odd numbered rows: k6.
Rows 2, 4, 6, & 8: SWYF-2, k2, SWYF-2.
Rows 10, 12, 14, & 16: k1, SWYF-4, k1.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing! For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p38.
Row 2: k38.
Row 3: p38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4 (and all even rows): k38.
Rows 5, 7, 9, & 11: p3, k1, SWYF-2, k2, *SWYF-4, k2, repeat from * to last 6 sts, SWYF-2, k1, p3.
Rows 13, 15, 17, & 19: p3, k2, *SWYF-4, k2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Rows 20-76: repeat Rows 4-19.

Finishing Rows

Row 77: p38.
Row 78: k38.
Row 79: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.  It helps to squish the square in hot water for a bit, then soak thoroughly.  This will help tighten those long strands.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as
necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! :)

8 Comments

  • Is there a video showing the SWYF
    I understand better that way
    I am new to looming
    Thanks

  • Hi Ginny :) Welcome to the wonderful world of Loom Knitting! I know you’ll get years of enjoyment from this craft.

    In answer to your question, if you go to this link for the Bunnies on Parade Stitch, Stitchology 21, you’ll find a tutorial video included.
    http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/5625

    In this video, the first technique shown is the one for a s2wyif, which is really the same as a SWYF-2. Just follow the first steps, without wrapping the working yarn back behind the pegs a second time to p2. This is for the bunny stitch only. ;) For the Stranded Basketweave, you would actually continue with 2 more SWYF so that you you have a total of 4 slipped stitches. Then on the following knit stitch, pull that trailing strand very taut, so that it won’t want to sag.

    This should get you going…it’s really super simple to do! :) Please feel free to let me know if I can be of any additional help.
    Bethany~

  • Hi,
    is there a way to make this pattern come out more like the needle version? I have noticed that patterns with slip stitches create very large floats when loomed, whereas the floats in the needle version look a lot shorter.

    Thanks!

  • I think the “long floats” created by swyf on a loom is supposed to look this way.

  • Well, these are pretty long floats to begin with…you are slipping 4 pegs to make them. To make them be snugger, you need to pull the line taut before knitting the next stitch after the float. This helps keep those long lines from sagging too much. Even after doing this, you will still notice a little sag until the square is blocked. This is why this particular stitch is highly recommended to be worked in a wool or high wool content blend, to aid in the blocking process. After this, they should lie flat. :)

    If you still don’t like the look of the long strands, you could work the same idea with only slipping 3 pegs. This will keep them shorter, with less chance of them being too loose. Of course, the pattern will have to reworked to account for the adjusted peg number in use.

  • Bethany, I have actually noticed the same thing as Sara. Your pattern “Triple Rib Square”(http://blog.knittingboard.com/archives/4881) looks quite different than if it was knitted on needles(http://www.knitca.com/slipstitch14). I think it must just be due to the pegs stretching the stitches so much.

  • You are correct, Brynn. The simple nature of loom knitting has the stitches being worked at their most stretched out position. This makes the slipped stitches stretch across the already stretched out stitches. When you are doing the same thing on needles, the slipped stitches are simply carried around the yarn of the previous row’s stitches, which as you can imagine, produces a tighter float. There’s not much to be done to make them look any similar…this is just one of those things where the differences show when forming the stitches on pegs in a line, rather than on two sticks. ;)

  • Thank you Bethany for the explanation :)

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Sep 25, 2016

Picot-Boo Bonnet

zoeys-set
This sweet baby bonnet is the matching topper for the little pair of booties, Zoey’s Tootsies, released last year.  These were especially designed for my niece, with whom they share a namesake. The bit of picot edging and the contrast colored “peek-a-boo” back, along with the adorable ribbon tie, are what make this little bonnet an heirloom quality accessory!
Zoey’s Toesies: click here to access the coordinating booties pattern~

Items Needed:

Knitting loom: KB 18″ All-n-One Loom

Yarn:  approx. 1 skein each color of Cascade Yarns Fixation: Sock Weight, 100 yards, 98.3% Cotton/ 1.7% Elastic (sample in colors MC: #9907 & CC: Lemon).

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, 26″ length of ribbon or I-cord.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, 4mm crochet hook for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc.)

Gauge: 11 stitches and 24 rows= 2″.

Finished bonnet measures 5.5″ in height and depth, and 11″ around face edge.

Skills Needed: True Knit Stitch or U-stitch, Chain CO and/or Half Hitch CO, and Gather BO, Knit 2 Together.

zoey-in-the-picot-boo-bonnet

Little Baby Zoey! :)

Pattern Notes:

All knit stitches are either worked as a true knit stitch, or as a U-stitch.

The sample bonnet was knit using an elastic yarn, which makes the end result nice and smooshy.  The thing to be careful of is keeping just a little bit of tension on the yarn throughout the project. This gives the project that perfect amount of stretch…not too little and not too much.  BUT!  make sure to keep the tension consistent throughout the project for a smooth, even knitted fabric.

Abbreviations: 

CO: cast on

HHCO: half hitch cast on

CC: Contrast Color

MC: Main Color

K: knit stitch or U-stitch, as desired

S1: slip one, or skip one

KO: knit off

St(s): stitches

WY: working yarn

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.

BO: Bind off

 

Pattern Instructions:

Using your CC yarn, CO to 60 pegs to work as a flat panel. (Sample uses chain CO.)

Rows 1-9: S1, k59.

Row 10: K2tog every odd peg starting with peg 3 (Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3, move loop from peg 4 to peg 5, etc, all around loom. To work row, s1, carry WY behind each empty peg, k all pegs with 2 loops 2 over 1.).

Row 11:  S1, then carry yarn in front of each empty peg and k each peg with loops. All pegs will now be filled.

Rows 12-20: S1, k59.

Cut CC.  Pull CO sts back up onto all corresponding pegs. Knit extra loops 2 over 1 on next row.

Row 21:  Using MC, CO to 6 pegs before peg 1, k60, CO to 6 pegs after peg 60. There will now be 72 pegs with loops. (Sample uses chain CO, but HHCO could also be used.)

Rows 22-60: K72.  Cut MC.

Rows 61-66: Using CC k72.  Count down 6 sts (at the beginning of the CC rows) and pull sts back up onto all corresponding pegs and KO.

Rows 67-88: Continuing with CC, k72.

picot-boo-bonnet-back

Gather BO until there is a keyhole opening of 2.5″. Knot the two bottom edges together.

Pin a 26″ ribbon or knit I-cord for tying loosely around baby’s neck along the bottom edge. Fold under 1″ of bottom edge and stitch in place, making sure to not sew through ribbon/I-cord.

Weave in all ends, stretching the fabric as you go, so that the tails will stay hidden.  Trim close to work.

*To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post. :)

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Sep 19, 2016

Loom FAQs: I Need to Crochet??

Loom FAQs

 

Crochet??  What??  I thought this was a loom knitting blog…  Fear not.  It is still a loom knitting blog.  And yes.  This is still a loom knitting article.

While I know that most people that loom knit do not know how to crochet, it has been brought to my attention recently that most loom knitters, especially beginners, find crochet borders on loom knit items as “deceptive” since it is a loom knit pattern.  And while these borders can be left off, it will not look like the picture.  Hmmm…  Never really thought if it as deceptive to have a crochet border on a loom knit project, but I can see where she was going with it.

Most loom knit patterns do not have anything crochet at all.  But occasionally there are.  And not everyone was a fortunate enough to have a grandmother to teach them to crochet like I was.

Of course, this would be the reason I see all those questions about how to make convert a certain crochet project to loom knit.  Which of course you can’t…  Please refer to my previous article on converting for more about that.  But even something like a crochet border is just as complicated as a complete crochet project to some.

On that note, I would like to do my best to help instruct loom knitters on how to crochet a border on a flat panel.

What do you mean by “flat panel”?

When you loom knit a blanket, dish cloth, or anything else that is not worked in the round like a hat, it is a flat panel.

Why would I need to crochet a border?

Borders are needed to keep pieces from curling if the project is all knit.  Crocheting a border onto a finished flat panel will help keep it from curling.  Not all flat panels need to have a crochet border though.  Borders can be created by changing the stitch pattern while working the piece.  You can find out more on that here.

Sometimes the edges are just ugly or do not match.  While there are ways to work the project so that all the edges match, sometimes it is preferable to just crochet a border instead.   You can learn more on making the edges match while knitting here.

How do I crochet a border?

While there are lots of ways to crochet a border, today I will only demonstrate how to work a single crochet border onto a flat panel in the interest of keeping it simple.

I have worked a simple small square in all knit or stockinette in pink.  I will be using red for the border.  This square was worked on the Hat Loom in small gauge using worsted/medium weight yarn.  I am using a US 7/4.5mm hook for the border.

How do I know what size hook to use?

The easiest way to know what size hook to use if the pattern doesn’t specify is to use the hook recommended on the label of the yarn you are using.  If you are using more than one strand of yarn to create a bulkier yarn, you can refer here to know what weight yarn it is equivalent to.

Here is a rough guide to what size hook to use with each yarn weight that is commonly used in loom knitting.

Yarn Weight            Crochet Hook Size (US/metric)

3/light, dk, sport              7  t0  I-9  /  4.5 – 5.5mm

4/worsted, aran                I-9  to  K-10 1/2  /  5.5 – 6.5mm

5/bulky, chunky               K-10 1/2  to  M-13  /  6.5 – 9mm

6/super bulky                   M-13  to  Q  /  9 – 15mm

7/jumbo                             Q and larger  /  15mm and larger

Or you can just use whatever size will easily fit in the stitches without forcing the hook through.  That is usually what I do…

What if I am left handed?

Simply work everything I show in the other direction.  I do realize that most left handed people can use their right hand just as well as the left.  My sister is one of them.  While she writes with her left hand, she loom knits and crochets with her right as well as lots of other everyday activities with her right hand instead of her left.

Where and how do I join the yarn onto the piece?

You can join the yarn anywhere you like.  I prefer to join at the top right corner in the stitch next to the corner so that the last thing worked is the corner.

2-first-stitch

 

To do this, hold the project with the right side facing you.  I have worked a small flat panel with an e-wrap cast on and a basic bind off.  I am holding the bind off edge at the top.  You can use the cast on edge if you prefer.

I am pointing to the first stitch at the corner with my hook.

 

 

 

 

1-slip-knot-on-hook

 

First make a slip knot and place on the hook.

 

 

 

 

3-second-stitch

 

 

 

 

Insert the hook into the second stitch.

 

 

 

Join the yarn with a slip stitch by doing the following:

 

4-yo

 

 

Yarn over by hooking the working yarn with the crochet hook.

 

 

 

5-pull-loop-through

 

 

Pull working yarn through the stitch.

 

 

 

 

6-pull-loop-through-slip-knot

 

 

Then pull it again through the slip knot.

 

 

 

 

7-snug-up-tail

 

 

Pull on the tail to snug up the joining slip stitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Now the yarn is joined to the piece, and you are ready to start your border.

How do I work the single crochet stitch?

8-work-in-tail

 

Before starting, you can hide your tail from your panel by bringing it across the edge and working the crochet stitches over the tail.  This is optional.  Just one less tail to weave in if you do.

 

 

Now you are ready to chain 1.  You must do this in order for the single crochet stitch to stand  up.

9-yo-for-chain

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

10-chain-1

 

 

Pull through the loop on the hook.

Chain 1 complete!

 

 

 

 

Now for the first single crochet stitch.

11-insert-in-same-stitch

 

 

Insert hook in same stitch as the join.

 

 

 

 

12-yo

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

13-pull-loop-through

 

 

Pull through the stitch so that there are now 2 loops on the hook.

 

 

 

 

14-yo

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

15-pull-through-both-loops

 

 

Pull loop through both loops on the hook.

Single crochet stitch complete!

 

 

 

16-insert-hook-next-stitch

 

 

Now you are ready to insert the hook into the next stitch and repeat the instructions for the single crochet stitch until you get to the corner stitch.

 

 

 

Where do I insert the hook for each stitch?

On the cast on and bind off edges, each crochet stitch goes into each stitch as you go since the size of the crochet hook should match the gauge of the knitted piece.  Those 2 edges are the easy ones.

The sides are a different story though.  When you look at a swatch gauge, there are more rows in an inch than there are stitches.  When working a crochet border, you need to take care that you do not work too many stitches or not enough stitches.

How will I know how where to put the stitches on the sides?  To be honest, it’s a guessing a game for the most part.

 

What happens if I do not space my crochet stitches evenly?

While working across the cast on and bind off edges is stitch for stitch as mentioned before, the sides is where a person can mess up the border by not having the stitches spaced evenly.

If you work too many stitches, the edge will ruffle like this.

too-many-stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you do not work enough stitches, the body of the project will gather with the edge being too tight like this.

not-enough-stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you use too many or not enough stitches on the edges, blocking will not fix it.  You will need to take the stitches back out and try again.

 

What do I do at the corners?

Corners need extra stitches so that the border will lay flat.  Each corner stitch requires 3 stitches of single crochet in the same stitch on each round.

17-corner-stitch

 

When the corner is reached,

 

 

 

 

18-first-stitch-in-corner

 

work the first single crochet in the corner.

 

 

 

 

 

Then work 2 more in the same place.

 

22-three-stitches-in-corner

 

All 3 stitches in one stitch will look like this.

 

 

 

 

23-next-stitch-in-side

 

Then continue on with the next side.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat the 3 stitches in one space at each corner.  The last corner should be your last stitch.  You will join the round after the last corner.  How you join will depend on if you are only doing 1 round or continuing with another round.

What if I want to work more than one round?

If working more than one round of single crochet for the border, you will need to join the first round with a slip stitch.

 

28-slip-stitch

 

 

When you reach the first stitch, place your hook through the top of that stitch.

 

 

 

 

29-yo-for-slip-stitch

 

 

Yarn over.

 

 

 

 

30-pull-through-stitch-and-loop-on-hook

 

 

Then pull the working yarn through the stitch as well as the loop on the hook to complete the slip stitch.

 

 

 

31-chain-1

 

 

Then chain 1 and start the next round in the stitch where you joined.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue as before until you get to the corner.

Work a single crochet stitch in the first corner stitch in the row below.

Place the 3 single crochet stitches in the middle stitch of the 3 at the corner on the round below.

Then work a single crochet stitch in the last corner stitch of the row below.

 

34-three-stitches-in-middle-stitch-for-corner

 

 

Now you have worked your corner.  Continue as before.

 

 

 

 

How do I finish so the join is not seen?

After completing the last stitch, do not join with the slip stitch.

 

36-cut-working-yarn-remove-hook

 

Cut the working yarn with a tail long enough to weave in and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

 

 

 

37-thread-tapestry-needle

 

 

Thread tail on tapestry needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

38-insert-tapestry-needle-in-loop

 

 

Thread needle through the loop in the direction you were working.  Since I was working right to left, I inserted the needle into the loop from the right side of the loop to the left.  Pull the yarn through.

 

 

 

 

39-insert-needle-through-next-stitch

 

 

Run the needle through the stitch you are joining from the back of the work to the front making sure you catch the entire stitch so it will look like the needle is under 2 strands of yarn.  Pull yarn through.

 

 

 

40-insert-back-through-loop

 

Run the needle back through the last loop in the opposite direction than you did the first time.  For me, I went from left to right making sure the needle came out the back of the work.

Pull the yarn through.

 

 

 

41-finished-join

 

Now you are ready to weave in that last end for a nice seamless join.

 

 

 

 

 

 

finished-border

 

Crochet border complete!

While you can see the other color between the stitches on the sides, this will not happen when using the same color for the border.

Blocking will also help even out those stitches as well.

 

 

 

 

While the majority of loom knitting patterns do not require any crochet knowledge at all, some do.  A person does not need to proficient in crochet in order to work a simple border in crochet.  But once you learn, you may be hooked!  I find a mixture of loom knitting and crochet a fun and satisfying project.  Brings together 2 of my favorite things.

Hope this helps!  Happy loom knitting as well as crocheting!

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